Sure, you love your cat, but how much do you know about our favorite pets? Test yourself with a short quiz to see if you're a true feline fancier. The answers are at the end.

1. When used to describe a cat's behavior, "bunting" is when a cat:

(a) Uses urine to mark a doorway

(b) "Chatters" at the sight of a bird

(c) Bumps and rubs his head to leave a scent mark

(d) Bats around his prey

2. Which of these is not a reason why cats claw things?

(a) To keep claws sharp and help remove worn claw sheathes

(b) To leave scent on an object

(c) To provide muscles with a good stretch

(d) To be spiteful

3. A cat who's getting agitated to the point of lashing out while being petted will often have a tail that's:

(a) Twitching and flipping at the tip

(b) Wagging gently from the base

(c) Perfectly still

(d) Carried straight up

4. Cats purr when they're:

(a) Content

(b) Frightened

(c) Injured

(d) All of the above

5. Most cats have how many whiskers?

(a) 18

(b) 24

(c) 32

(d) 56

6. Which of the following places are not good for petting, in the opinion of most cats?

(a) Tummy

(b) Underside of chin

(c) Base of tail

(d) Side of face

7. The average cat weighs:

(a) Between 12 and 15 pounds

(b) Between 8 and 10 pounds

(c) More than 15 pounds

(d) Between 6 and 8 pounds

8. Cats start their grooming routine by:

(a) Licking their tail tips

(b) Licking their flanks

(c) Licking their lips

(d) Licking their paws

9. "High-rise" syndrome refers to:

(a) A cat's preference for perching on tall objects

(b) The ability of cats to live happily in upper-floor apartments

(c) The survival rate of cats who fall from high places

(d) A cat's enjoyment of a good view

10. The normal body temperature of a cat is:

(a) 97 degrees

(b) Between 100 and 102.5 degrees

(c) 99 degrees

(d) 104 degrees

ANSWERS

1. (c) Every cat lover is familiar with "bunting," which is what a cat does when he bumps and rubs on something, such as your leg or hand.

2. (d) Contrary to common belief, cats don't destroy your sofa for spite, but because clawing is natural feline behavior.

3. (a) You may avoid a nasty bite by watching your cat's tail. When the tip starts to flip, end the petting session.

4. (d) Although most purring is a sign of contentment, cats have also been known to purr in stressful or painful situations.

5. (b) In most cats, the 24 whiskers are neatly divided into four rows on each side of the face. Each whisker -- they're technically called "vibrissae" -- is imbedded deeper than normal hairs to enhance its sensory input.

6. (a) Many cats become agitated if petted on the tummy, and they may claw or bite. Save tummy rubs for your dog!

7. (b) While most average-weight cats will come in between 8 pounds and 10 pounds, some cat breeds will normally be much heavier. A healthy cat should have a little padding over the ribs -- but not too much.

8. (c) A cat will generally groom himself in the same sequence, starting by licking his lips, then his paws, then rubbing the paws over his head. The tail is generally last to get cleaned.

9. (c) Cats can right themselves in midair and brace for impact if they have time, which is why cats have a better chance of surviving a fall from a few floors up than from a balcony closer to the ground. Above a certain height, however, no cat can survive the fall.

10. (b) Temperatures below 99 degrees or above 103 degrees are reason to worry -- and to call your veterinarian.

How'd you do? If you got them all right, you really know your cats. If you got fewer than half right, admit it: You're a dog person! If so, don't worry, because next week there'll be a quiz for you.

Q&A

Guessing no good when pets are sick

Q: My husband has had cats for years. He is a cat rescuer. We now have four cats, and they've had trouble recently with diarrhea. He gave them worming medicine two times for this.

We can't afford to take them to a veterinarian, as we are on a fixed income and have health problems ourselves. Should we give them more doses of worm medicine or just wait? My son had one of the cats, and he said the cat had roundworms when he had it. I think that cat spread it to our cats. -- J.R., via e-mail

A: Please don't give your cats any more medication until you know what's causing the diarrhea. Your son's guess at what's causing the problem isn't any better than yours is. And you have no way of knowing the cause of the intestinal upset without at least one of these animals seeing a veterinarian.

Without a proper diagnosis, you cannot know your proper treatment options. In such cases, over-the-counter or home remedies are a waste of time and money, and may even be harmful.

I realize that veterinarian expenses can strain the budget, but I also believe that making sure sick pets get the help they need is the responsibility of everyone who adopts an animal. Contact your local humane society or find a cat-rescue group to see if someone can steer you toward a veterinarian who will work with you when it comes to your budget and your cats' needs.

Much as your husband loves cats and wants to rescue them, it would be better if, when some of your current pets pass on, you limit the number of cats to one or two. That will help you afford the occasional trip to the veterinarian that all pets require.

"Rescuing" cats you can't care for does no favor to the animals involved. Better you should provide good care to one pet than poor care to four of them.

Missing the box

Q: My oldest cat, Company, is feral, and she is now about 12 years old. This past year, she has begun to miss the litter box. I have taken her to the veterinarian, which is an extremely hard thing to do because I am the only one whose handling she tolerates. She doesn't have an infection.

After reading your "Cats for Dummies" book, I thought I would try isolating her in the bathroom to see if she will start using the litter box. Am I supposed to be cleaning up after her while she is in isolation? -- A.B., via e-mail

A: Assuming your veterinarian did assure you of your cat's complete good health, then yes, retraining is definitely worth trying. The idea behind putting a cat in a small area such as a bathroom, with the rugs removed, is that potty options are pretty much limited to the box. Because some cats develop negative associations with their boxes, this technique may help them to get back on track.

As for cleaning up after your cat: Yes, you must. A scrupulously clean box is essential, and any outside-the-box mistakes must also be cleaned promptly and thoroughly.

If your cat still will not use the box, talk to your veterinarian again. Even though an infection was ruled out, I'd suspect some other medical issue is going on with your cat. If that's not the case, ask for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist who can develop a program for you to follow in re-training your cat and can prescribe medications that will ease your cat through the transition back to good behavior.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Paralysis always a pet emergency

The inability to walk can develop suddenly, even without a history of injury. Such paralysis may be the result of a ruptured spinal disc, especially in low-slung dog breeds such as the dachshund. Paralysis can also be associated with an injury, such as a fall or vehicle accident. When paralysis is associated with trauma, fractures or instability of the spine may be the cause.

Paralysis should be considered a life-threatening emergency, and you should contact your veterinarian immediately. Prepare to transport your pet, using an ironing board or piece of plywood as a stretcher, keeping the animal as immobile as possible. Covering the pet with a blanket may help to keep him calm.

Don't encourage or allow your pet to move around, and do not provide any medication unless specifically instructed to by the veterinarian. Stay calm, and get your pet veterinary assistance immediately, either at your regular veterinary hospital or an emergency clinic.

Never trust a frightened, injured animal not to bite. A soft muzzle should be kept on hand for emergencies, or one can be fashioned out of gauze or even pantyhose in a pinch.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET Buy

Keeping kitty off the keys

Relatively quiet and elegantly beautiful, the cat has been the preferred pet of many a writer or computer programmer. But anyone who has a cat and a computer -- which is most anyone these days -- knows that cats have a tendency to walk across keyboards.

The result? Deleted work, programs launched and even computer shutdowns. If we didn't know better, we'd swear our cats were doing it on purpose.

A couple of companies have come up with remedies. Perhaps the most straightforward solution is a protective cover, such as the Kittywalk keyboard cover and "mouse house" ($20) available from Cat Connection (www.catconnection.com, 866-386-MEOW).

A more high-tech solution is PawSense ($20), available from BitBoost Systems (www.bitboost.com). The PawSense computer program recognizes the patterns of a cat walking across the keyboard. The program prevents further input once it launches, puts up a screen-saver and has the computer emit a noise to annoy the cat into walking away.

THE SCOOP

Healthy beak key to a healthy parrot

The beaks of most parrots are remarkably well-designed for one of their most important tasks: cracking, crushing or prying open the protective coatings around many of the foods they eat.

Like everything else on a creature designed for flight, the beak is surprisingly lightweight, considering its strength. It's essentially a hard shell of constantly growing material (similar to that found on antlers) placed over a hollow bony structure. (If a beak were made of solid bone, its weight would probably force a bird to spend his life on the ground, and on his nose.)

Lightweight it may be, but a parrot's beak is also very strong. Although a person would need a hammer or nutcracker to get through hard shells to the nutmeat, a bird needs only his beak, and perhaps a foot to hold the nut in place.

A parrot has such strength in his beak that owners are often surprised to see even the bars of a metal cage fall victim. Birds have been known to pick off the welds holding bars together -- and sometimes get lead or zinc poisoning as a result -- or even snap the bars themselves. That's why a cheap cage with shoddy construction will turn out to be no bargain when faced with the destructive abilities of a parrot.

Although beaks are constantly growing at a rate of 1 inch to 3 inches per year, depending on the species, the beak of a healthy bird will remain at a healthy length with normal chewing activities -- no trimming required. In fact, an overgrown beak is frequently a sign of illness, such as liver disease or malnutrition.

Because a healthy beak is essential to a healthy bird, see an avian veterinarian if you observe any problems.

BY THE NUMBERS

What reptiles cost

Prices for pet reptiles and amphibians are influenced by such factors as the rarity of a species or unusual markings. The following figures are the 2004 reported average cost to buy such a pet. Averages include the 42 percent who paid nothing to acquire their pets, such as children catching frogs in the wild.

Snake $83

Iguana $70

Lizard $42

Turtle/tortoise $16

Frog/toad $9

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Guide good source for helping rats

Good veterinary care can be hard to find for little pets like rats. Not to mention, a lot of people balk at spending more to treat a so-called "pocket pet" than it costs to replace one.

Because of these rather stark realities, it's a good idea to put some effort into the proper care of these little pets and to have some basic knowledge of what to do when one gets sick.

The Rat Guide (www.ratguide.com) is just the ticket. The thorough and fully searchable collection of articles, developed with the assistance of veterinarians, offers countless suggestions to improve the lives of these affectionate pets. And if a rat does become ill, the guide can help there, too.

After all, just because a pet is inexpensive to acquire and care for doesn't mean it should have a miserable life, or be allowed to suffer when sick.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The trend toward keeping cats indoors is generally a good one, but many cat lovers resist because they know instinctively that an indoor life probably wouldn't be what a cat would choose for himself. After all, who would want to be kept cooped up when the wide world offers so much in the way of sights, smells and sounds?

Cabin fever may be the bane of an indoor cat's existence, but you really don't have to open the front door to provide your cat with a more interesting life. In fact, by just looking at your home from a cat's point of view and adding a few environmental enrichments, your cat can be both safe and happy indoors. Here are five easy ways to get going:

-- Think vertical. Cats love to climb, so give them the opportunity. Cat trees mounted floor-to-ceiling, wrapped with sisal rope and studded with platforms for perching, will give your cat the opportunity to look down on the rest of the world. This is especially satisfying if there are dogs in the household, because what cat wouldn't like to look down on the dog?

The best example of creating an overhead world for cats is the famous "Cats' House" in the San Diego area. Bob Walker and Frances Mooney put in a series of cat trees that connect to an overhead network of catwalks. The installation even cuts through walls with special cat-sized portals. Take a look at the possibilities on the couple's Web site, www.thecatshouse.com, or pick up one of their books, including "The Cats' House" and "Cats Into Everything" (Andrews McMeel Publishing).

-- Add toys. The cat with the most toys wins. Every indoor cat should have toys for batting around, toys for chasing, toys for hiding in and toys for interactive play. And don't forget that some of those toys ought to have catnip in them. While not all cats can enjoy the fragrant herb, those who do find it blissful in the extreme. If your cat is a catnip junkie, indulge him frequently. Rub fresh catnip onto cat trees or scratching posts, or stuff it into toys. It's perfectly safe for your cat to enjoy the buzz.

Some of the most enjoyable toys for both people and cats are the interactive ones. Every cat lover should have a "kitty tease" toy, typically a flexible rod with a line that ends in something furry or feathery to engage a cat's prey drive. Other interactive toys include gloves with goodies dangling from the fingertips, or laser pointers that offer cats a spot of light to chase. (Just be careful not to aim the beam in your cat's eyes.)

-- Provide rooms with views. No matter how big your house, your indoor cat will know every one of its sights and sounds within just a few days. Provide a little visual stimulation by putting a bird feeder outside a window fitted with a cat-sized ledge for comfortable viewing.

Be aware, though, that a view of the world isn't always going to work for your cat. If your yard is attracting other cats from the neighborhood, your own cat may become frustrated by seeing them, and he can even turn that frustration into attacks on people in the house. Blocking visiting cats from your yard or discouraging them with sprinklers may solve the problem. Otherwise, you may have to make certain windows off-limits to your own cat.

If a window view isn't going to work, try a TV. A handful of companies offer DVDs for cats. Pop one of these in and your cat can be entertained with a lively mix of feline-friendly images and sounds, including those of birds and rodents.

-- Go green. Cats love nibbling on plants. Any decent feline reference book will provide a list of which plants should not be in a pet-friendly house, or visit the Animal Poison Control Center (www.ASPCA.org/APCC) for information on dangerous plants.

After you get the unsafe plants out of the way, protect your decorative houseplants by hanging them up or otherwise putting them out of reach. Keep cats from digging in your decorative pots by putting a layer of small, rough stones over the dirt.

You can then add a collection of accessible plants for your cat to nibble on, such as grass shoots, or to enjoy rubbing, such as catnip, valerian or rosemary.

-- Give face time. Of course, one of the best things you can do for your indoor cat is spend time with him. Playing, grooming, petting or just plain hanging out -- it's all good. Your cat loves you and loves spending time with you.

Keeping a cat inside is one of the best ways to ensure a long and healthy life, but it won't be that happy an existence unless you're going to add some interest to the surroundings. It doesn't take much in the way of time or effort, so get going. Your cat will thank you!

CORRECTION: In a recent column on a top-winning show dog, Lyn Sherman's name was misspelled as "Sherwood."

Q&A

Weight loss needs checking

Q: I don't know exactly how old my cat is, but he's at least 12, maybe older. He seems in good shape, has really high energy, eats very well and has a great appetite. But he is losing weight. Is this just normal for an older cat, or should I be concerned? -- S.D., via e-mail

A: Your cat needs to be checked out by your veterinarian. Although your letter is pretty lean on specifics, in general when an older cat seems to have high levels of energy but is steadily losing weight, the culprit is often a malfunctioning thyroid gland. This overabundance of the hormone is called hyperthyroidism. The average age at diagnosis is 13, making your cat right in the target area.

When a cat produces too much thyroid hormone, the animal's metabolic rate soars to the point where he can burn off more than half of his body weight. If thyroid production is not checked, cardiac and liver problems develop, and the cat can die.

The good news is that the problem is treatable, allowing a cat to regain full health and expect a normal lifespan. Your veterinarian will be able to discuss treatment options if this is indeed what's going on with your cat. Choices range from a daily medication to the surgical removal of the thyroid gland to radioactive iodine therapy to "zap" the troublesome overproduction.

Radioactive iodine treatment is considered the best treatment option, with a cure rate of 90 percent to 95 percent, with no further treatment necessary. The cat gets one dose of a radioactive substance that kills the overproducing cells without harming any of the body's other functions. It's a one-day matter, but what follows presents a dilemma for many owners: The treatment creates a radioactive cat who must be kept on site at the veterinary clinic or college for seven to 14 days, after which the animal is considered safe.

Because of the expense and the fact that some cats just aren't good candidates for confinement, many people opt to go the medication route, at least at first.

The first step to sorting it all out is to call your veterinarian and see what's causing the weight loss in your cat. It may be hyperthyroidism, or it might not be. Anytime a cat starts losing weight, it's time for a checkup from the veterinarian. Don't delay!

Dog jumping gate

Q: How can I limit my 8-month-old Italian greyhound to a room where there are no doors? There's only a baby gate, which she can jump over. -- S.L., via e-mail

A: When I have puppies or foster dogs in the house, I use an extra-tall gate to make sure they learn from the first that they can't get over the barrier. The problem with most gates is that for large puppies or dogs, or especially agile ones like yours, the common 29- or 30-inch barrier is no barrier at all.

Sometimes people make the mistake of adding height in increments, starting with a standard gate, then getting one just a little higher, and then higher still. This sometimes has the effect of training a dog to jump higher and higher. That's why I prefer to start with a tall gate.

Several companies now make pet barriers that are as much as 44 inches high. Other gates are designed to accommodate additional panels to increase height on a standard gate. Pet supply Web sites and catalog companies are probably your best bet to find the widest selection.

Your dog may be agile, but he'd have to have springs for legs to get over a gate that tall.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Covering cords for pet safety

Puppies and kittens often outgrow their desire to nibble on electric cords, but for other pets, the need to gnaw is lifelong. Rabbits, especially, like to chew on anything and everything.

For young pets or lifelong chewers, tucking electric cords, cables and wires into protective sleeves makes good sense. Pets will be protected from harm, and electrical equipment will be kept in one piece.

Cableorganizer.com offers sturdy, reasonably priced covers for cords and cables. They're perfect for use indoors and provide a neat look to the areas behind computer and home-entertainment equipment. The supplier says its metal covers are good for outside use as well, to protect wiring from wildlife.

Prices start at $6 for an 8-foot section of wire loom in a durable polyethylene cover that comes in a variety of colors. The sturdier metal-braided sleeving is more costly, of course.

PET Rx

Cat bite wounds a common malady

Bite-wound abscesses are one of the most common cat health problems seen in any veterinary practice. After cats fight, an abscess often forms when an infected wound heals over on the surface, sealing the infection inside. These infections need veterinary attention to heal.

If the abscess has not ruptured, it will need to be lanced. Once the abscess is open, it will need to be flushed clean of infected debris. If the abscess is large or especially painful, sedation may be required. Older wounds may need more extensive surgical attention, possibly along with the insertion of rubber to help keep the wound draining as it heals.

Home care involves giving antibiotics to your cat, and may additionally require warm compresses or keeping the wound flushed. Your veterinarian will explain what's needed to help your cat recover. To prevent a repeat of the problem, consider keeping your cat inside.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Multiple dogs need individual training

Bad behavior is contagious, as any schoolteacher or dog-trainer can tell you. That's why, if you're going to live with more than one dog, you'll need to work individually with each one to get well-mannered pets.

Having more than one dog has its advantages, especially for the dogs involved. In many families, a dog is left alone for hours at a time, as family members attend to work, school and recreational activities. For a species as intensely social as the dog, all that time alone can be very difficult indeed. The companionship of another dog can help make the hours when the family is gone pass more quickly.

That said, two dogs can be more than double the trouble. One dog who's marking territory in the house will encourage the other to do likewise. Walking two dogs on leash can be like walking a team of draft horses, with each dog encouraging the other to pull harder. Other bad behaviors such as barking can also be made worse with two dogs to egg each other on.

If you're going to have more than one dog, you can't just snap leashes on them and expect good behavior on walks. Basic obedience must be taught individually, from walking on leash to "sits," "downs" and "stays." Each dog needs one-on-one training time with human family members, as well as individual "special time" that can be as simple as taking one dog alone to run errands.

Once each dog knows the obedience basics, practice the exercises together. One of the best is the "stay," which teaches each dog that although they may be members of a pack, the leader of the household is you. My own dogs do a group "down-stay" for a half-hour a couple of times a week.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Feline spending trends

Keeping your cat inside can help with the cost of cat care. According to a 2004 survey, the top costs reported by cat lovers and the average annual expenses for each are:

Surgical veterinary visits $337

Food $185

Routine veterinary visits $179

Boarding $119

Other supplies $91

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Good advice on guinea pigs

The guinea pig is an often unappreciated pet that has a lot to offer if provided with room to roam, a few toys and some social interaction. But like too many other animals in the "children's pet" category, guinea pigs are often given little of what they need to showcase their sweet personalities.

Catch the Cavy Spirit (www.cavyspirit.com), a guinea pig rescue and adoption group, points out that many parents consider the animals as little more than toys for younger children and projects for older children. In both cases, the animals are often neglected and ultimately dumped when a child's interest wanes.

The site offers solid information on caring for these pets (known as cavies outside the United States). Especially helpful are tips on inexpensively providing decent housing. This site is a must-visit, preferably before a guinea pig is purchased. -- G.S.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A little dog named Callie has been much on my mind. She was one of the hundreds of pets saved in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, a sweet-natured mixed breed whose foster family fell for her so hard, they were ready to become her forever home.

That never happened, because Callie died.

What killed her wasn't anything related to the hurricane. She didn't die in an accident nor from a communicable disease. She died pointlessly, needlessly -- killed by a disease that's easily prevented. She died because the people who once owned her didn't spend a few extra dollars a month on her care.

Callie died weeks after the hurricane, from the complications of treatment for heartworm disease. A single dose of medication every month would have prevented her death by keeping her free of the parasites.

She will not be the only such casualty. Rescue groups estimate that some 80 percent of dogs taken from the disaster zone are infested with heartworms.

A criminal level of neglect, I'd say, except ... well, it isn't criminal at all. The laws spelling out the humane treatment of pets set the bar very low, mandating little more than the most basic of sustenance and shelter. The only preventive care required is a rabies shot -- and that's more for the protection of people than animals.

Is the problem a lack of knowledge or a lack of money? Anyone who takes an animal to a veterinarian, especially in the heartworm-infested South, will get a rundown on heartworm disease, how dangerous it is and how to prevent it. To me, that suggests the problem in many cases is money, either to go to a veterinarian in the first place or to purchase the monthly heartworm preventive medicine.

Pets are not cheap to care for. The Wall Street Journal recently reported that the total cost for basic care of a small dog was almost $12,000 over 15 years; larger dogs run $23,000 for their average of 12 years.

It's easy to say that if you cannot afford to care for a pet properly you should not have one, but that's a little too glib. In the more than 25 years I've been writing about animals, I have seen the difference they have made in the lives of people who really cannot afford to keep them. For isolated seniors on fixed incomes, the companionship of a pet is a godsend, and so is the nonjudgmental love that an animal gives to a child who has little else.

Still, I cannot believe that all of those heartworm-infested dogs pulled out of the disaster area belonged to people so impoverished they could not afford preventive care for their pets. Many of these people simply made other choices.

Which brings me back to little Callie.

If, like Callie, your dog isn't on heartworm preventive, get your priorities straight when it comes to this deadly disease. Have your dog checked by your veterinarian to make sure heartworms aren't already in place, and if they're not, put your dog on heartworm preventive.

Callie died on the verge of a new life with people who truly cared about her. She died because other people did not care about her enough. If out of the sadness of her death, and the deaths of others like her, people will finally get smart about heartworm disease, then maybe something good will come from her loss.

If you love your dog, protect him. It's really small price to pay for the companionship of a pet.

SIDEBAR

Heartworms easily preventable

Pets become infested with heartworm when bitten by a mosquito carrying immature parasites picked up from another animal. Once in the bloodstream, the parasites migrate to the heart and mature into worms that can cause heart failure. Dogs are most susceptible, but cats and ferrets can also be infested.

A pet with heartworms can be treated, but the cure is difficult, expensive and sometimes fatal. This is one case where prevention is much, much better than the cure, which is why heartworm prevention is so important. The American Heartworm Society estimates that 27 million dogs are not on preventive medicine -- leaving them at risk for this deadly disease, which is present in all states except Alaska.

For more information, visit the AHS (www.heartwormsociety.org) or the heartworm information section on www.veterinarypartner.com (search for "heartworm" from the homepage).

Q&A

Choosing between flying, driving

Q: I'm planning a trip from Indiana to Florida this spring to visit family, and I'm planning to take my dog. I'd prefer to fly, but I will drive if I decide flying is too dangerous for my pet. What's your opinion? -- S.P., via e-mail

A: You didn't say what size your dog is, but if your pet is small enough to fit in a carry-on pet bag, you should have few worries about flying. Your pet will never be separated from you, and he will likely spend the flight sleeping in the carrier.

If the carry-on option isn't available, your pet will have to fly in the baggage compartment. That means you'll have to determine your own comfort level when it comes to the flying vs. driving question. Consider, though, that driving is not without risk either.

I have put pets on airlines for trips across the country and halfway around the world, and have fortunately never had a bad experience. At least in the United States, the overwhelming majority of pets fly without a hitch, but of course the statistics won't console you if your pet is one of the unlucky ones. If you decide to fly with your pet, here are some things to do to help minimize the risk:

-- Talk to the airline well in advance. Some carriers, especially the no-frills companies, don't take animals at all. Even those that do may have limits on the number of animals on a flight. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers -- health certificate and so on -- you need to bring.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the short-nosed dogs or cats. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- Choose a carrier designed for air travel. If your pet will travel in the baggage compartment, the crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened.

While your pet cannot wear a collar in his crate -- it's not safe because it can get hung up -- put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around his neck. Be sure the crate has contact phone numbers for both ends of the journey prominently displayed.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when air traffic is heaviest. Choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departing airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. If you're flying into or out of traditionally hot locales during the summer, you may not be able to ship at all because airlines often put embargoes on pet travel.

-- Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. If you can get a direct flight out of another airport, choose that flight, even if the airport isn't the most convenient to you. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally better that your pet not be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge that your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. Talk to your veterinarian about this issue.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BOOK

Strategies help with allergies

It hasn't been very long since the first and often only advice allergists offered to people sneezing around their pets was: Get rid of the animal.

These days, the strength of the human-animal bond and the desire of people to share their lives with pets is well-established. And although perhaps many allergists, if not most, would still say a home without pets might be best, they're likely to be more understanding of people who refuse to dump a family pet at the first sign of a sneeze or wheeze.

Still, there's no denying that allergies can make a person miserable, which is why I'm surprised I've never before seen a book like Shirlee Kalstone's "Allergic to Pets? The Breakthrough Guide to Living With the Animals You Love" (Bantam Books, $8). A book like this is long overdue.

Kalstone sets the record straight on what causes allergies, and how an allergy sufferer can best cope with living around animals. She offers general suggestions, and then specific ones having to do with each kind of pet, from dogs and cats to birds, rabbits and even horses. The slender guide is amazingly thorough -- a worthwhile investment for anyone who loves pets and hates allergies.

PET BUY

Salt-free de-icer protects pet paws

Salt and other ingredients in traditional ice-melting products can cause problems for pets who come in contact with these solutions. Veterinarians say salt-based de-icers can cause severe dermatitis, inflammation of the paws and serious gastrointestinal problems, including vomiting and internal burns of the mouth and digestive tract. Dogs are especially vulnerable to such contact and the potential health problems that result.

Safe Paw (www.safepaw.com), a no-salt alternative to traditional ice-melting products, is said by its manufacturer to be safe for use around pets. The product is available in home- and pet-supply stores, and comes in an 8-pound size that retails for between $13 and $15. A 5-gallon pail is also available.

Because you can't count on your neighbors to use pet-safe products, it's always a good idea to wash and wipe off your dog's feet after winter walks.

THE SCOOP

House-training requires consistent approach

Successful house-training requires setting up a potty schedule and limiting your puppy's roaming options to areas you can supervise by using a crate and baby gates.

You must take your pet outside to the area you've chosen for his relief, and praise him for doing the right thing in the right place. Don't punish your pet, and above all, don't shove his nose in the mess.

Here are a few additional house-training tips:

-- Understand your pet's physical limitations. Puppies have little storage capability and need to be taken out frequently. Rule of thumb: A puppy can "hold it" for as long in hours as his age in months.

-- Understand how a puppy works. Young dogs need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, and after playing. Make sure to take your puppy out after each of these events. Do not offer food and water on demand. Instead, offer them at regular intervals to help you predict when your pet will need a trip outside.

-- Clean up mistakes promptly and thoroughly. What you can't see, a pet can still smell, and smells invite repeat business. Keep commercial products on hand that use enzyme action to break down the smell.

-- Limit your puppy's territory. Keep your puppy where can supervise him. That way, if you see him start to make a mistake, you can whisk him outside and praise him for finishing the job where you want him to.

-- Be patient! Some puppies catch on right away, while others take more time. If you're persistent, consistent and fair, your puppy will soon understand the household rules.

-- If you just don't seem to get anywhere after a few weeks, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can help you get your puppy on track.

BY THE NUMBERS

'Max' top pet name

According to an analysis of its 360,000 policy holders, Veterinary Pet Insurance Co./DVM Insurance Agency (www.petinsurance.com) says "Max" is the top pet name for the third year in a row. The top 10 names for dogs and for cats:

Dogs

1. Max

2. Bailey

3. Buddy

4. Molly

5. Maggie

6. Lucy

7. Daisy

8. Bella

9. Jake

10. Rocky

Cats

1. Max

2. Tigger

3. Smokey

4. Tiger

5. Chloe

6. Shadow

7. Lucy

8. Angel

9. Oliver

10. Simba

PET Rx

Hand-washing a must with pet reptiles

Households with young children or immune-compromised family members should not keep reptile and amphibian pets because of the danger of salmonella.

For others, the risk can be minimized with commonsense precautions. Do not allow these pets into food-preparation areas. After handling these reptiles, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water. If hand-washing immediately is not possible -- such as at a reptile show -- carry and use a disinfectant hand solution.

When cleaning reptile enclosures, use rubber gloves and goggles, and be sure any wound on your body is covered. Don't clean reptile housing, bowls or toys in food-preparation areas. Bathtubs or shower stalls must be disinfected afterward if used to clean reptile gear.

A veterinarian with experience in the care of reptiles and amphibians can provide additional guidance on safe handling.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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