A little dog named Callie has been much on my mind. She was one of the hundreds of pets saved in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, a sweet-natured mixed breed whose foster family fell for her so hard, they were ready to become her forever home.

That never happened, because Callie died.

What killed her wasn't anything related to the hurricane. She didn't die in an accident nor from a communicable disease. She died pointlessly, needlessly -- killed by a disease that's easily prevented. She died because the people who once owned her didn't spend a few extra dollars a month on her care.

Callie died weeks after the hurricane, from the complications of treatment for heartworm disease. A single dose of medication every month would have prevented her death by keeping her free of the parasites.

She will not be the only such casualty. Rescue groups estimate that some 80 percent of dogs taken from the disaster zone are infested with heartworms.

A criminal level of neglect, I'd say, except ... well, it isn't criminal at all. The laws spelling out the humane treatment of pets set the bar very low, mandating little more than the most basic of sustenance and shelter. The only preventive care required is a rabies shot -- and that's more for the protection of people than animals.

Is the problem a lack of knowledge or a lack of money? Anyone who takes an animal to a veterinarian, especially in the heartworm-infested South, will get a rundown on heartworm disease, how dangerous it is and how to prevent it. To me, that suggests the problem in many cases is money, either to go to a veterinarian in the first place or to purchase the monthly heartworm preventive medicine.

Pets are not cheap to care for. The Wall Street Journal recently reported that the total cost for basic care of a small dog was almost $12,000 over 15 years; larger dogs run $23,000 for their average of 12 years.

It's easy to say that if you cannot afford to care for a pet properly you should not have one, but that's a little too glib. In the more than 25 years I've been writing about animals, I have seen the difference they have made in the lives of people who really cannot afford to keep them. For isolated seniors on fixed incomes, the companionship of a pet is a godsend, and so is the nonjudgmental love that an animal gives to a child who has little else.

Still, I cannot believe that all of those heartworm-infested dogs pulled out of the disaster area belonged to people so impoverished they could not afford preventive care for their pets. Many of these people simply made other choices.

Which brings me back to little Callie.

If, like Callie, your dog isn't on heartworm preventive, get your priorities straight when it comes to this deadly disease. Have your dog checked by your veterinarian to make sure heartworms aren't already in place, and if they're not, put your dog on heartworm preventive.

Callie died on the verge of a new life with people who truly cared about her. She died because other people did not care about her enough. If out of the sadness of her death, and the deaths of others like her, people will finally get smart about heartworm disease, then maybe something good will come from her loss.

If you love your dog, protect him. It's really small price to pay for the companionship of a pet.

SIDEBAR

Heartworms easily preventable

Pets become infested with heartworm when bitten by a mosquito carrying immature parasites picked up from another animal. Once in the bloodstream, the parasites migrate to the heart and mature into worms that can cause heart failure. Dogs are most susceptible, but cats and ferrets can also be infested.

A pet with heartworms can be treated, but the cure is difficult, expensive and sometimes fatal. This is one case where prevention is much, much better than the cure, which is why heartworm prevention is so important. The American Heartworm Society estimates that 27 million dogs are not on preventive medicine -- leaving them at risk for this deadly disease, which is present in all states except Alaska.

For more information, visit the AHS (www.heartwormsociety.org) or the heartworm information section on www.veterinarypartner.com (search for "heartworm" from the homepage).

Q&A

Choosing between flying, driving

Q: I'm planning a trip from Indiana to Florida this spring to visit family, and I'm planning to take my dog. I'd prefer to fly, but I will drive if I decide flying is too dangerous for my pet. What's your opinion? -- S.P., via e-mail

A: You didn't say what size your dog is, but if your pet is small enough to fit in a carry-on pet bag, you should have few worries about flying. Your pet will never be separated from you, and he will likely spend the flight sleeping in the carrier.

If the carry-on option isn't available, your pet will have to fly in the baggage compartment. That means you'll have to determine your own comfort level when it comes to the flying vs. driving question. Consider, though, that driving is not without risk either.

I have put pets on airlines for trips across the country and halfway around the world, and have fortunately never had a bad experience. At least in the United States, the overwhelming majority of pets fly without a hitch, but of course the statistics won't console you if your pet is one of the unlucky ones. If you decide to fly with your pet, here are some things to do to help minimize the risk:

-- Talk to the airline well in advance. Some carriers, especially the no-frills companies, don't take animals at all. Even those that do may have limits on the number of animals on a flight. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers -- health certificate and so on -- you need to bring.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the short-nosed dogs or cats. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- Choose a carrier designed for air travel. If your pet will travel in the baggage compartment, the crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened.

While your pet cannot wear a collar in his crate -- it's not safe because it can get hung up -- put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around his neck. Be sure the crate has contact phone numbers for both ends of the journey prominently displayed.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when air traffic is heaviest. Choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departing airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. If you're flying into or out of traditionally hot locales during the summer, you may not be able to ship at all because airlines often put embargoes on pet travel.

-- Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a short layover. If you can get a direct flight out of another airport, choose that flight, even if the airport isn't the most convenient to you. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally better that your pet not be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge that your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. Talk to your veterinarian about this issue.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BOOK

Strategies help with allergies

It hasn't been very long since the first and often only advice allergists offered to people sneezing around their pets was: Get rid of the animal.

These days, the strength of the human-animal bond and the desire of people to share their lives with pets is well-established. And although perhaps many allergists, if not most, would still say a home without pets might be best, they're likely to be more understanding of people who refuse to dump a family pet at the first sign of a sneeze or wheeze.

Still, there's no denying that allergies can make a person miserable, which is why I'm surprised I've never before seen a book like Shirlee Kalstone's "Allergic to Pets? The Breakthrough Guide to Living With the Animals You Love" (Bantam Books, $8). A book like this is long overdue.

Kalstone sets the record straight on what causes allergies, and how an allergy sufferer can best cope with living around animals. She offers general suggestions, and then specific ones having to do with each kind of pet, from dogs and cats to birds, rabbits and even horses. The slender guide is amazingly thorough -- a worthwhile investment for anyone who loves pets and hates allergies.

PET BUY

Salt-free de-icer protects pet paws

Salt and other ingredients in traditional ice-melting products can cause problems for pets who come in contact with these solutions. Veterinarians say salt-based de-icers can cause severe dermatitis, inflammation of the paws and serious gastrointestinal problems, including vomiting and internal burns of the mouth and digestive tract. Dogs are especially vulnerable to such contact and the potential health problems that result.

Safe Paw (www.safepaw.com), a no-salt alternative to traditional ice-melting products, is said by its manufacturer to be safe for use around pets. The product is available in home- and pet-supply stores, and comes in an 8-pound size that retails for between $13 and $15. A 5-gallon pail is also available.

Because you can't count on your neighbors to use pet-safe products, it's always a good idea to wash and wipe off your dog's feet after winter walks.

THE SCOOP

House-training requires consistent approach

Successful house-training requires setting up a potty schedule and limiting your puppy's roaming options to areas you can supervise by using a crate and baby gates.

You must take your pet outside to the area you've chosen for his relief, and praise him for doing the right thing in the right place. Don't punish your pet, and above all, don't shove his nose in the mess.

Here are a few additional house-training tips:

-- Understand your pet's physical limitations. Puppies have little storage capability and need to be taken out frequently. Rule of thumb: A puppy can "hold it" for as long in hours as his age in months.

-- Understand how a puppy works. Young dogs need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, and after playing. Make sure to take your puppy out after each of these events. Do not offer food and water on demand. Instead, offer them at regular intervals to help you predict when your pet will need a trip outside.

-- Clean up mistakes promptly and thoroughly. What you can't see, a pet can still smell, and smells invite repeat business. Keep commercial products on hand that use enzyme action to break down the smell.

-- Limit your puppy's territory. Keep your puppy where can supervise him. That way, if you see him start to make a mistake, you can whisk him outside and praise him for finishing the job where you want him to.

-- Be patient! Some puppies catch on right away, while others take more time. If you're persistent, consistent and fair, your puppy will soon understand the household rules.

-- If you just don't seem to get anywhere after a few weeks, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can help you get your puppy on track.

BY THE NUMBERS

'Max' top pet name

According to an analysis of its 360,000 policy holders, Veterinary Pet Insurance Co./DVM Insurance Agency (www.petinsurance.com) says "Max" is the top pet name for the third year in a row. The top 10 names for dogs and for cats:

Dogs

1. Max

2. Bailey

3. Buddy

4. Molly

5. Maggie

6. Lucy

7. Daisy

8. Bella

9. Jake

10. Rocky

Cats

1. Max

2. Tigger

3. Smokey

4. Tiger

5. Chloe

6. Shadow

7. Lucy

8. Angel

9. Oliver

10. Simba

PET Rx

Hand-washing a must with pet reptiles

Households with young children or immune-compromised family members should not keep reptile and amphibian pets because of the danger of salmonella.

For others, the risk can be minimized with commonsense precautions. Do not allow these pets into food-preparation areas. After handling these reptiles, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water. If hand-washing immediately is not possible -- such as at a reptile show -- carry and use a disinfectant hand solution.

When cleaning reptile enclosures, use rubber gloves and goggles, and be sure any wound on your body is covered. Don't clean reptile housing, bowls or toys in food-preparation areas. Bathtubs or shower stalls must be disinfected afterward if used to clean reptile gear.

A veterinarian with experience in the care of reptiles and amphibians can provide additional guidance on safe handling.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Lyn Sherwood has shared her life with bloodhounds for more than 40 years, but it was a mere handful of minutes at this time last year that will stand out forever.

The scene was the AKC/Eukanuba National Championship dog show, and professional handler Ken Griffith had just positioned Sherwood's bloodhound Knotty for the judge's consideration during best in show competition.

At that moment, the microphone that judge Michele Billings was wearing for the live telecast slipped deep into her evening gown. She stepped away from Griffith and the dog to get the situation fixed.

"Three minutes and 42 seconds," said Sherwood. "Knotty was just standing there, with the spotlights so strong. You could feel everybody holding their breath, all 30,000 people. A bloodhound isn't made to stand like a pointer, but he just stood there, waiting. I was in a state of shock."

Griffith, of Shingle Springs, Calif., says he was too busy showing the dog to think about the fix he was in. "I had no idea how long the break was going to be," he said. "I focused on Knotty, on keeping him interested and happy."

What Knotty was thinking about during the unscheduled break at the worst possible time, no one will ever know, of course. But when the judge turned around, Griffith had the dog set up perfectly, and Knotty himself looked straight at the judge, tail tip wagging slowly as if he knew he was by many accounts the most perfect example of his breed ever born.

A few minutes later, the easygoing bloodhound was the national champion.

"A bloodhound has never won any large show like that before," said Sherwood, of Topanga, Calif. "We were just hoping to win the hound group. It never occurred to me that he would win best in show."

A bit of an overstatement, perhaps. After all, Knotty (Champion Heathers Knock on Wood, as he's officially known) was the nation's top hound going into the event, with more than 30 best in show wins to his credit -- a number that's now close to 50. In the more than 150 shows he and Griffith had gone to in the year leading up to the 2005 national championship, the dog had been named the top hound in most of them.

Knotty won't be competing at the AKC/Eukanuba National Championship when it returns to Tampa, Fla., Jan. 14 and 15. But he will be there in a booth set up for him to meet his fans. Handler Griffith has been surprised how many people recognize the dog and love him, wrinkles and all. Knotty routinely gets accosted in airports on the way to dog shows, and he even had his own float in the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade. He's happy to see most everyone, says Griffith, and is relaxed in most any situation.

"He's a real ambassador for his breed," says owner Sherwood.

At age 5, the bloodhound has done almost everything a show dog can, which is why he'll be heading to England in March to compete at Cruft's, the world's biggest show, with more than 20,000 canine competitors over the course of the four-day event. The end of England's traditional six-month rabies quarantine a few years back has now made the trip appealing for owners of the world's top dogs.

After Crufts, Knotty will retire to the life any hound dreams of -- lots of naps, and the occasional visit by a female bloodhound.

"Once in a while you see a dog that grabs you," says Griffith, who won't see Knotty much after his retirement. "It's visual at first. And if you're lucky, you get to spend some time with them, and they grab your heart. Knotty will have a special place in my heart, forever."

SIDEBAR

AKC show gains in prestige

For decades, the Westminster Kennel Club dog show served as the de facto national championship. There just wasn't any American show like it. To equal its Big Apple prestige, you'd have to go to England, to the far larger Crufts show. (The 130th Westminster dog show will be held on Feb. 13 and 14, and will be televised on the USA Network.)

The addition five years ago of the AKC/Eukanuba National Championship hasn't cost Westminster any of its luster. But it has added another big prize for the owners and handlers of the world's top show dogs to drool over. (The AKC/Eukanuba show will be held on Jan. 14 and 15, in Tampa, Fla., and will be televised on Animal Planet.)

Q&A

The problem with puggles

Q: I just read about breeders creating designer mixes such as the puggle (pug and beagle mix). The mini dog looks cute. What do you think of this trend? -- M.W., via e-mail

A: I have the same reaction as I do with any "hot" dog, purebred or mixed. When a kind of dog becomes popular, it attracts opportunists who breed as many dogs as they can as quickly as they can without regard to health or temperament. These can be casual, so-called "backyard" breeders, or massive commercial breeding operations, including cruel puppy mills.

We've seen these bursts of popularity with Dalmatians (after the "101" movies), with Chihuahuas (after the Taco Bell dog) and more. Many of these poorly bred and often undersocialized puppies have health and temperament issues that cause problems for their owners. Other pups seem fine, except that they're not the right dog for the people who buy them. The end result is a lot of unhappiness and misery all around, and a lot of formerly trendy pets ending up in the shelters.

Whatever kind of dog you get, purebred or mixed, you must be sure you make the right choice for your family and your living situation. Don't simply pick the flavor-of-the-month pup. Perhaps even more important than choosing the right kind of dog is making sure the source is legitimate, such as a reputable breeder who ensures that all dogs have certified good health and have good temperaments for families.

Socialization is important: Puppies should be raised underfoot in a family situation, not in a cage or kennel run. They should be given lots of gentle and safe opportunities to hear, see and smell new things. And they must be given time to learn important lessons from mother and littermates. (A person who's selling a puppy less than 7 weeks of age is someone who doesn't understand enough about puppy socialization to be given your consideration.)

I guess my problem with puggles, Labradoodles and such isn't so much with the mixes themselves -- although, gee, aren't these prices ridiculous? -- but rather with the breeding practices that often produce them.

But then, I've always said that 90 percent of the people who are selling purebred dogs aren't responsible enough to be breeding those either. I believe there is a place for the responsible breeding of dogs. But those people who don't follow the practices of reputable breeders are just adding to the problems of health and temperament rampant in our pets -- and adding to the flow of unwanted animals to the shelters.

And that's true of purebreds and mixes alike.

No pal for Max

Q: I have a 10-year-old longhaired cat. Although Max is a sweet cat, he will not associate with other animals. Also, he is not a lap cat. He must be sedated when grooming time comes around. It takes three handlers with thick gloves to contain him.

We want to get another cat, hoping the company will change his disposition. The veterinarian advises us against this, stating that Max will not tolerate it. What is your opinion on getting another cat? -- J.A., via e-mail.

I think your veterinarian is right: Max would probably prefer not to share his space with another cat.

Although you did not ask, I think given how difficult it is on Max to go out for grooming, it would be a good idea if you worked to minimize his stress by eliminating as many trips out of the house for him as possible. Keeping Max groomed at home would be best, but if that's not possible, consider having a mobile groomer come to your home.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Good, free advice just a click away

If you spend any time searching the Web for pet advice, you're sure to come across sites that try to frighten you by mentioning "secrets" about your pet -- problems that can be cured if you buy the book or CD the Web site's pushing. (One of these pay-to-learn sites charges $5 to get the recipe for a pet-odor eliminator I've written about several times.)

But you don't need to pay for good advice on the Web. One tried-and-true source of information, available in convenient printable format, is the Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org). The DDFL's advice section offers information on 29 canine behavior topics and 17 feline ones, plus plenty more on ferrets, rabbits and small pets such as mice, rats and hamsters. There's even a section with information in Spanish.

If you've ended up with a Christmas puppy, you'll be delighted to find out that the DDFL offers a handful of information sheets on such must-know topics as house-training and nipping. There's even advice offered by e-mail or phone through the DDFL's behavior hot line. Information on how to reach the behavior staff is available on the Web site.

THE SCOOP

Cheerful canary a good first pet

The canary is well-known for his vocal talents and vibrant color. Canaries hail originally from the Canary Islands, which were not named for their most famous residents but for the dogs the Romans found there ("canis" is Latin for "dog").

Canaries are actually finches, but few people think of them that way. Wild canaries are green and yellow. Yet the word "canary" usually brings to mind a brilliantly colored yellow bird, thanks, mostly, to the Sylvester-outsmarting cartoon character Tweety Bird.

In fact, canaries come in many colors and varieties, thanks to centuries of selective breeding. Canaries can be sleek or plump in body type, and smooth or puffy when it comes to feathers, with colors from yellow to bright orange to greens and browns. If you want a singer, though, make sure your new bird is a male, because female canaries don't sing.

The canary isn't talked about as much for its pet potential as it used to be. And that's a shame, because the bird is perfect for beginners who aren't sure they want as much interaction as some other pet birds require. The canary is happy to hang out in a cage and entertain you with beauty and song -- no handling desired or required. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Experience, rapport key to good veterinarian

If you're going to have a healthy pet, you need the help of a veterinarian. And although some people believe that these health-care professionals are virtually interchangeable, distinguished only by convenience and price, you may be doing your pet a disservice if you don't put a little effort into choosing the right veterinarian.

Your veterinarian should be technically proficient, current on the latest treatments, and willing to seek out more information on your pet's behalf. A veterinarian should be articulate, able to explain what's going on with your pet in a way you can understand, and willing to answer your questions so you can make a responsible decision on your pet's behalf.

These other factors may help you narrow down your list of possibilities:

-- Is the clinic or hospital conveniently located, with hours you can live with? If you have a 9-to-5 job, a veterinarian with a 9-to-5 clinic doesn't do your pet much good. Many veterinarians are open late on at least one weeknight and for at least a half-day on Saturday, or they're willing to make other arrangements.

-- Does the veterinarian willingly consult with a veterinary college staff or independent or in-house specialists? A willingness to discuss tough cases with colleagues is the sign of a veterinarian who's putting in an effort on your pet's behalf.

-- What kind of emergency care is available, if any? Although emergency veterinary clinics are prepared for any catastrophe, they're not familiar with your pet. If your veterinarian's practice does not offer 24-hour care, does it have a good relationship with one that does?

-- Do you feel a rapport with this person? Are you comfortable asking questions? Do you trust him or her? The final call on whether a particular veterinarian is right for you comes down to intangibles. If you don't feel comfortable, you're less likely to deal with your veterinarian, and the lack of productive communication can hurt your pet in the long run.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

BY THE NUMBERS

Rabbits grow in numbers

Always a popular outdoor pet for children, the rabbit has gained interest among those who see the pet as ideal for apartment-dwelling adults. The percentage of small-animal households that have rabbits, by year reported:

1992 24 percent

1994 27 percent

1996 32 percent

1998 40 percent

2000 40 percent

2002 43 percent

2004 43 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Pain medications can kill you cat

Never give your cat any medication without clearing it with your veterinarian first.

That's a good rule to remember in general, but in particular, it applies to painkillers. Although you can safely give aspirin to arthritic dogs, the smaller size and different metabolism of cats make aspirin a dangerous proposition for them. And acetaminophen, the active ingredient in Tylenol, can kill your cat, as can other pain medications, over-the-counter and prescription alike.

If your cat is in pain, call your veterinarian immediately. Cats are very stoic, and if you're noticing your pet's discomfort, he's really suffering and needs immediate care.

The best source of information on what's dangerous for your cat can be found on the Web site of the Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc). There you'll find lists of unsafe plants, common household products and other potential hazards to your cat's health.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

We now know more than ever before about our cats. But a surprising amount of information that's just plain wrong still hangs about in our culture and, worse, keeps popping up as true, and so passes on anew.

Anyone who has ever said goodbye to a cherished companion knows cats don't have nine lives, but some of the other things we think we know about cats sure seem to have at least that many lives. Here are a few of the most enduring feline fallacies:

-- Cats purr when they're happy. Purring is one of the most special elements of a cat, as far as most humans are concerned. Caressing a purring pet has proven to relax the person doing the stroking and lower the blood pressure, too.

But careful observers of the cat know that purring isn't just a sound of contentment. Cats also purr if they're injured, while giving birth -- even when dying. British zoologist Desmond Morris has observed that purring is "a sign of friendship -- either when [the cat] is contented with a friend or when it is in need of friendship -- as with a cat in trouble."

In other words, purring is sort of like smile: Sometimes you smile when you're happy, sometimes when you're hoping a smile will get you out of trouble.

-- Cats will smother babies. You don't need to find a new home for your pet when a baby's on the way, no matter what well-meaning relatives and friends may say to the contrary. Cats do not maliciously smother or suck the breath out of babies.

The myth that they do probably came from their natural curiosity to investigate a new addition to the family, coupled with the tragedy of what's commonly known as crib death. We can easily understand how, in generations past, people may have seen a cat in the crib -- perhaps sniffing at a baby's milk-scented breath -- and later found a dead child and then tried to find an explanation for the loss by linking the two events together.

We now know there's no connection. But common sense still dictates that no animal be left unattended with an infant or small child. And, of course, before the baby arrives, safety dictates that someone other than the expectant mom clean out that litter box to reduce the risk of birth defects caused by the parasites that may be in the cat's feces.

-- Well-fed cats won't hunt. The ability to hunt is hard-wired into all cats. But the level of desire varies by an individual's genetics and early experiences, not by the rumbling in his belly.

Hunting behavior in cats is very controversial, especially if the prey is songbirds or endangered rodent species. Fitting your cat's collar with a small bell has little effect on his ability to hunt. Turning him into an indoor dweller is the only way to protect wildlife from him. (It'll also make your cat's life less likely to end abruptly from the hazards of the outdoors.)

-- All calico cats are female. Almost all calico (and tortoiseshell) cats are female, but not quite all. About one in every 3,000 calico cats is male, with an extra X chromosome -- XXY instead of the XY of a normal male.

The gene that governs how a cat's red/orange color is displayed is on the X, or female, chromosome. Any cat, male or female, can be orange. In males, however, that color is usually expressed in one way: the tabby pattern, often called a "ginger tom" or marmalade tabby. It takes two X chromosomes to make a calico, which is why a cat must have an extra X chromosome to be a male calico.

Females can be orange tabbies, tortoiseshells or calicos. Because orange females are divided among calicos, torties and tabbies, people sometimes think that almost all orange tabbies are male, just as almost all calicos are female. Not true: For an orange tabby to be female is a lot more common than for a calico to be a male.

-- Black cats are bad luck. Black may be an unlucky color all right -- for a cat, not a person. Black cats have been said to be associated with the forces of evil for hundreds of years. Humane societies warn that this myth has cost some of them their lives as the target of satanic rituals, especially around Halloween.

Black may be an unfortunate color for another reason: visibility. Thousands of cats are killed by cars every year, and the difference between a hit or a near miss may be the driver's ability to see the cat darting across the road before him. At night, patches of light-colored fur are a distinct advantage to a kitty.

SIDEBAR

Hypoallergenic cats don't exist

If people are allergic to animals, their bodies are reacting not to fur but to proteins in skin secretions and saliva, commonly known as dander. These particles are applied generously to a cat's fur by the act of grooming and are liberally applied to every surface she rubs against.

Myths persist about "hypoallergenic" breeds of cats, usually involving the nearly naked Sphynx or lightly coated Devon or Cornish Rex. Their fanciers actively promote many of these breeds as being good for allergy sufferers, but allergists argue otherwise. -- G.S.

Q&A

This tubby tabby resists slimming

Q: I know you've said there's no reason for a fat pet, but I can't get any weight off our 17-pound cat. I don't think it's possible. Also, I'm not sure it would improve our cat's life to cut back on his food because he's such a happy eater. Any advice? -- S.W., via e-mail

A: Would it improve the quality of your cat's life -- or yours -- if he became diabetic? Because that's one risk of chronic obesity in cats. Overweight cats are also prone to joint, ligament and tendon problems, difficulty breathing and even skin problems because they can't groom themselves properly.

Talk to your veterinarian about your cat's overall health and a plan for slowly trimming down your overweight pet. Quick-loss programs can make you cat ill or even kill him, which is why a vet-approved slow-reduction plan is best.

Pay attention to what you're doing to contribute in ways you may not even be fully aware of. For example: Do you share your meals with your cat, handing him the choicest tidbits off your plate? Do you love to give him cat treats several times a day? These things all add up!

Remember: Food is not love. Instead of interacting with your cat over food, bond over grooming or play. Your cat will love you just as much for a loving session of gentle brushing and combing, or a playful half-hour spent being teased with a cat "fishing pole" or other toy. Time spent in either pursuit is better for an overweight cat than eating, and the exercise will help take the weight off.

Running companion

Q: I'm a runner. After a close call with a would-be mugger, my husband and I decided it would be a good idea if I ran with a dog. We'd been thinking about adopting one anyway, so the timing was perfect.

We went to the local shelter and found a litter of puppies. Our Hannah was the cutest, biggest and seemed to be the smartest of the bunch. Our best guess is that she's mostly shepherd, probably mixed with Labrador and Queensland heeler. We've had her a month, she's now more than 4 months old, and she's had all her puppy shots.

She's a great puppy, who's sweet and learns quickly. How can I best get her into proper condition as my running mate? -- D.C., via e-mail

A: You need to wait a while before putting the miles on that pup, or risk permanent damage to her developing body. Eight months of age is about the earliest you should start her running with you, and even then, you should figure on only a mile or two at a relatively slow pace at first.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't be doing anything with your puppy now. Use the next few months to make sure your pet is well-socialized. Introduce her to any situation that's likely to pop up, including being comfortable around people of all ages, bicycles, strollers, cars and noisy motorcycles.

Get your pup into a training class now so she'll learn how to walk -- and later run -- on lead without dislocating your shoulder or pulling you off-stride.

Talk to your veterinarian to get a more accurate assessment of your pet's development and suitability as a running companion. When you get the go-ahead to start training together, take your time building up your pet's mileage and speed.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET TIP

Time for annual collar, tag check

The New Year's neck check will take you less than a minute, but it could save your pet's life.

I've been suggesting the New Year's neck check for years as an easy-to-remember annual evaluation of the state of your pet's collar and ID. A properly fitted collar is important, but so is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice. The proper fit for a collar should be comfortably close but not too snug. "Choke" collars should never, ever be the choice for everyday wear -- they can be deadly if they catch on something.

Cat collars should have a piece of elastic to enable your pet to get free if the collar catches on something.

Next, look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

Finally, check those tags. In addition to whatever license is required, your pet should have a legible ID tag. Instead of putting the pet's name on the tag, I prefer to put on the word "Reward!" And instead of a home address, I put as many phone numbers -- home, cell, friends, family -- as will fit.

Don't delay in fixing whatever problems you find. Sturdy collars and legible ID tags are the best insurance possible when it comes to getting your pet a ticket home should he ever become lost.

PET Rx

Thick, shiny coat normal for ferrets

A ferret's coat should be shiny and thick, never dull or dry.

Hair loss, and texture and quality changes are cause for concern. External parasites such as fleas, ticks and mites can cause abnormalities, but they are usually visible to the naked eye. The most common cause for hair loss in a mature, neutered ferret is adrenal disease. The most common cause for hair loss in an intact female ferret during its reproductive active cycle is a hormonal imbalance.

Normal ferret skin is smooth and pink without flakes, scabs or discoloration. In the wild, ferrets would spend a portion of their day in underground dens, where there is a constant temperature of 55 degrees with high humidity. In our homes in the winter, the air can be very dry and warm, which can dehydrate the ferret's skin. A cool home humidifier can help.

Your veterinarian should investigate any lumps, scabs or discoloration of the skin as soon as possible. Skin cancer is a common problem in ferrets and can be successfully cured with early treatment.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

AKC program recognizes good dogs

It's no secret that as a society we have mixed feelings about dogs.

Our hearts warm to those who serve as search-and-rescue dogs or as helpers to those who are blind or use wheelchairs. We can't get enough stories of therapy dogs who bring a smile to the face of an autistic child or an older person with Alzheimer's. But we also can't pass laws fast enough in an effort to protect ourselves from other dogs, after such events as the horrifying attack in San Francisco earlier this year by a pair of animals who were the stuff of nightmares.

A friendly, well-mannered dog is a pleasure to keep and an asset to the community. In my old neighborhood, a park that was inhabited mostly by drug dealers changed dramatically once dog lovers started taking their pets there to play. Places are always safer when people and well-mannered dogs frequent them.

The American Kennel Club's Canine Good Citizen program is about acknowledging good dogs, for the benefit of all dogs and those who love them. The program isn't about trophies or precise and rigid obedience. Its 10 tests are meant to identify dogs who behave with calm, friendly confidence, whether at the veterinarian's, in a crowd or meeting other dogs. They are dogs who know the basics of on-leash obedience, even if they may need gentle encouragement to practice it.

To put it simply, Canine Good Citizens are good dogs, recognized for their owner's efforts and belief that a well-mannered dog does more to protect the interests of dog lovers everywhere than does an army of lawyers and lobbyists.

For more information on the CGC program and how to get your dog certified, visit the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org) and search for "Canine Good Citizen."

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

What we like about our dogs

According to a 2004 survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, here are the top reasons why dog lovers enjoy having a canine companion (more than one response allowed):

Source of affection 89 percent

Feel safe in home 83 percent

Beneficial to health 78 percent

Helps me relax 77 percent

ON THE WEB

Dog lovers get holistic advice

Month in and month out, the one publication I can't wait to open is the Whole Dog Journal, a newsletter that covers the best in so-called "alternative" health care and nutrition, reward-based training, and great gear for dogs and the people who love them. Their reviews of dog foods are worth the entire subscription and are not influenced by advertising, which they do not accept at all.

The WDJ has a Web site (www.whole-dog-journal.com) that offers subscribers all current content for free and archived articles at a small charge. The site also provides non-subscribers a way to order content article-by-article. Regular mail subscriptions are $20 for 13 months by calling toll-free: 1-800-829-9165. Subscriptions can also be ordered through the Web site.

If your New Year's resolutions include a healthier dog, a subscription to the Whole Dog Journal is a good place to start.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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