pets

Fit Pets

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 12th, 2005

A cat show is a rare opportunity to see dozens of beautifully groomed cats, not only of the more common breeds, but also some of the rarest in the world. If you love cats, you'll find spending a couple of hours at a cat show to be interesting, educational and just plain delightful.

Bring your natural curiosity and your love of cats, and you can have a wonderful time. Here are a few tips to make the visit more comfortable and productive.

-- Wear comfortable clothes and shoes. Show halls are notorious for being too hot or too cold, no matter the outside temperature. Wear something light and carry a sweater, and you're covered either way. Carry a backpack or big purse, and a notepad and pen. You're sure to run across freebies or buy toys to take home to your cat, and you may meet a breeder you want to talk to after the show.

-- Be aware of the demands on exhibitors. Most exhibitors don't mind answering questions and talking about cats to the general public, but not in those tense moments before their animals will be judged. Your first question to any exhibitor should be: "Is this a good time to ask a couple of questions about your cats?"

They'll let you know, and if it's not, they can tell you when will be. Never bother an exhibitor who has a cat in her arms. She's almost certainly headed to or coming from judging. And step aside: Cat-show etiquette -- and common sense -- demands that a person carrying a cat has the right of way.

-- Be respectful of the health and safety of the cats. Don't ask to pet a cat, because you almost certainly won't be allowed to. Breeders are very concerned about the spread of disease. The only people who touch any cats at a show are the people who brought them and the judges, who are careful to sanitize their hands and the judging platform between each cat they handle. If an exhibitor does invite you to pet a cat, you'll likely be asked to wash your hands before and after, which is a small price to pay for the experience of caressing a cat in perfect show condition.

-- Watch at least one class being judged. Unlike dog-show judges, who never share their thoughts with the spectators (or even the competitors), cat-show judges consider education an important part of their job. They discuss the good and not-so-good points of each animal as they judge, and many are not only articulate and knowledgeable but witty as well. After the judging is over, most are happy to answer a question or two.

-- Bring money. Nearly every show has people on hand to sell cat-related merchandise. You often find not only free cat-food samples, but also hand-crafted toys, scratching posts and cat trees direct from the people who make them. Some of the merchandise is more for cat lovers than for the cats themselves: clothing, jewelry, artwork, books. Neat stuff!

Many cat shows also provide booth space for local feline rescue groups, and these deserve your support. If you're spending big bucks on cat toys or cat-themed goods for yourself, be a sport and drop a couple of dollars in the kitty to help out those animals who aren't as lucky as yours or the gorgeous show cats you've been enjoying.

SIDEBAR

Finding a cat show

The Cat Fanciers' Association (www.cfa.org) and The International Cat Association (www.tica.org) are the two most dominant organizations in the cat-show world. Information on upcoming shows can be found on the organizations' Web sites, or in publications such as Cat Fancy.

The CFA and TICA sites also have information on recognized breeds, how cat shows work and how to get involved with your cat -- even if he's not a purebred.

Q&A

Keeping items safe from clumsy cat

Q: My cat is so clumsy, constantly knocking stuff off shelves. How can I make her stay on the ground? -- B.G., via e-mail

A: Lithe and agile, cats are not really meant to stay on the ground. Instead of going against your cat's nature, consider moving valuable display items to glass-fronted cases that will keep your cat at bay and still allow you to enjoy the look of your favorite collectibles.

For less valuable pieces, double-sided tape or Velcro can be used to "lock" objects in place on shelves, and can be found at any home-supply store. You can also try a product called Quake Hold, a putty that seals objects to their display surface.

Ear problems

Q: My little terra-poo has what the veterinarian said was an ear infection. I gave her the antibiotics, but she's still shaking her head and her ear looks nasty under the flap. Can you suggest something I can buy that will take care of this? I don't see the point of spending more money at the vet for another expensive and useless round of drugs. -- S.V., via e-mail

A: Whenever a medication your veterinarian gives you doesn't do the trick for any reason, you need to go back for further assistance. Every day I hear from people whose pets are still suffering with problems that would likely be cured if their owners had pursued follow-up care. A medication may need to be stronger, given longer or may need to be changed, decisions that can be made only by a veterinarian.

Since those of use who are not veterinarians are often way off the mark when it comes to a proper diagnosis and treatment, I advise that over-the-counter remedies be purchased and used only as part of treatment program recommended by your veterinarian. As for home remedies, a lot of them are a waste of time and money. Go back to a veterinarian.

'Cat years'?

Q: How old is a 16-year-old cat in "human" years? The "dog formula" doesn't seem to work -- it would make him 112! -- M.D., via e-mail

A: The "1 equals 7" dog formula doesn't really apply for dogs, either. Consider: A dog who's a year old is a young adult, far more mature than a 7-year-old human child. I've heard of "1 equals 4" or "1 equals 5" rules for cats, but those don't make sense, for the same reasons the dog formula fails.

Sorry I can't offer you anything that's easy to remember, but here's the way to figure out the rough human equivalent of a cat's age: Figure the first year as taking the cat to around 15 or so, and the second year as equating to mid-20s in a human. After that, add four "human years" for each "cat year." That would put your cat at the equivalent of more than 80 years old in human terms.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Behavior changes could be trouble

You must be aware not only of your pet's physical condition, but also of his behavior. Many times, behavioral changes are later confirmed as illnesses through the use of such diagnostic tools as blood or urine tests. Always be aware of the subtle changes in your pet's behavior, especially regarding the following areas:

-- Changes in eating habits, especially loss of appetite. Be aware of how much and how eagerly your pet eats, and make a mental note of any changes. The ability to keep an eye on feeding behavior is one of the biggest arguments against keeping food always available.

-- Changes in activity level: If a pet who's always ready to run is suddenly not interested in playing, the lethargy may be cause for concern.

-- Changes in drinking habits: Pets drink more in the summer than in the winter, but even taking that into consideration, you look for variations in your pet's drinking habits. Get an idea of what's a normal amount of water, and be aware of changes. You don't need to measure by the ounce: Just keep an eye on how often you're refilling that water bowl.

-- Changes in voice: Does your dog's bark or cat's meow sound different? Is his pattern of vocalizing changing?

If you think you have an "ain't doing right" pet, a visit to your veterinarian is in order if the issue isn't resolved in a few days -- even if there's no overt physical sign of illness that you can see.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Site offers names by the thousands

If you can't come up with a name for a new pet after spending a few minutes on www.petnamesworld.com, you just aren't trying very hard. The site claims to offer more than 11,000 names for all kinds of pets, even less-common ones such as pigs and snakes.

The Web site is searchable by alphabet, and offers advanced search functions to help you narrow down to selections based on a name's country of origin, meaning or the kind of pet it's best suited for. As you go through the searching you can add names to your own list of favorites so you can consider just a few finalists.

THE SCOOP

Pellets form the base of healthy bird diet

The trend in recent years has been toward pelleted diets for parrots, and these pet birds are now healthier than ever before as a result. Pelleted diets are readily available from many reputable manufacturers and can be purchased at specialty bird stores, from avian-supply Web sites or from many veterinarians who work with birds.

Pellets are a blend of foods, such as grains, seeds, vegetables, fruits and various protein sources. Manufacturers mix the ingredients and then either bake and crumble or shape them -- ending up with pellets of a proper size for any given species (large pellets for large birds, small pellets for small birds).

This process produces a food that has an advantage to the "smorgasbord" way of feeding -- the bird cannot pick out his favorite foods and ignore the rest. Pellets also are convenient for bird owners: These commercially prepared diets are easy to buy and relatively inexpensive to use, and they store nicely in a cool, dry place.

Pelleted foods are a solid basis for your pet bird's diet, but even pellets need to be complemented with a variety of vegetables, fruits and "people food," such as whole-grain bread and pasta.

Some foods that are perfectly fine for you (in moderation, of course) are absolutely off-limits to your pet bird. Top of the list: avocado, which of course means not only plain avocado but anything with avocado in it, from guacamole to a California roll at the sushi bar. Another potentially deadly treat is chocolate.

Also, don't plan on sharing alcoholic or caffeinated beverages with your pet bird.

Birdy toast

If you're making French toast, take a few more minutes to make a special piece for your parrot. You can "birdify" the recipe by sprinkling the egg-drenched bread with hulled seeds and cooking as usual. Skip the powdered sugar and maple syrup, though: Birdy French toast is great treat just as it is!

BY THE NUMBERS

More the merrier

While most people with dogs are happy to have just one, among cat lovers the trend is for multiple ownership. Figures from 2004 (multiple responses permitted):

Number of cats owned

One 49 percent

Two 24 percent

Three or more 26 percent

Average number of cats owned: 2.4

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET BUY

First-aid kits for family pet

A first-aid kit for your pets should be part of your emergency supplies. You can pull one together yourself (any pet first-aid book or Web site will have a list of ingredients) or purchase one of any number of ready-made kits available through pet-supply outlets. One company that makes good kits from top-grade supplies is Pet-Pak Inc. (www.healerpetproducts.com, 800-223-5765). Supplies are packed into a hard plastic container, with prices ranging from $26 for a travel kit to $34 for a more extensive home version, not including shipping.

A pet disaster-survival kit is available from ResQPet (www.ResQPet.com, 888-738-7377). Packed in sturdy bright orange bags in sizes from fanny pack to backpack, the ResQPet collections include emergency water packets and purification drops, a muzzle and a space blanket in addition to top-grade first-aid supplies and instructions. The kits run from $50 to $100, including shipping. -- G.S.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Old Dog, New Friend

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 28th, 2005

Puppies are overrated. I say that after spending the last six months working on raising one, a darling, bright retriever who is as good a puppy as anyone could ever hope for. But after piddle puddles, chewed shoes and all the normal silliness and mess that goes along with raising a puppy, I'm reminded why most of the dogs who've ended up as part of my family have come into my home as adults.

And I'm reminded why, when people with a lot on their plates ask me about getting a puppy, I encourage them to consider a grown dog instead. Chosen carefully, an adult dog will be well past puppy foolishness and may have had some basic obedience training. Unlike puppies, who need constant monitoring, an adult dog should be able to be left alone while a family is at work or school.

For today's time-crunched households, there's no better deal than a good adult dog. But getting the right one is a little more difficult than going down to the shelter and picking out the cutest one.

While expecting to work on some minor behavior issues as your new dog gets used to you is reasonable, you want to avoid those animals who have too many problems, especially if one of them is aggression. Here are some questions that will help you:

-- What do you know of this dog's history? You may be dealing with a shelter, a rescue volunteer, the dog's original owner or breeder, or a nice person who found a stray. The more information you can get, the better. If you find out nothing about him because he was a stray, don't count him out. If he's healthy and friendly and otherwise fits your size, coat and activity criteria, he's a contender.

-- Why is this dog available for adoption? Dogs become available for lots of reasons, some as frivolous as a change in decor. "Losing our home," "divorce" and "death in the family" show no fault on the dog's part; "bit our daughter" obviously is a problem.

Listen, too, for what isn't said: "He needs more exercise than we can give him" may mean "He needs more exercise than anyone could possibly ever give him, and he eats furniture when he doesn't get it."

-- What behavior problems does this dog have? Many things are fixable and worth considering if you honestly believe you'll take the time to work with the dog. "Pulls on the leash" is fixable. "He snaps at people" is not, at least not by the average pet owner's standard, and not to the extent that you should take a chance on him with so many other dogs available.

Remember, too, that some problems are the owner's fault, not the dog's. "Won't stay in the yard," for example, may be easily cured by a decent fence and neutering.

-- How is he with children? Other dogs? Cats? Even if you don't have children, you're going to run into some from time to time. The same is true with other dogs. You can successfully avoid cats if you don't have them, but make certain your prospective pet at least tolerates them well if you have a cat in your home.

If you're getting an animal from a shelter, the organization should have asked the former owner to fill out a card on such things as problems with children or other animals. If you're adopting from a foster home, ask if the family has other animals and children. If there's no way to determine the dog's attitude toward children and other animals but he seems friendly, he may be OK. If you have doubts, however, hold out for an animal that you're sure fits well with your family.

Above all, take your time. This is a decision that should be for the dog's lifetime, and there are lots of pets to consider. Make the decision with your head, not your heart. There's plenty of time after adoption to fall in love with your new canine companion.

SIDEBAR

Adoptions on the Internet

Petfinder (www.petfinder.com) has become the No. 1 place to look for a pet to adopt, with thousands of listings searchable by species, breed type and geographic area. Shelters and rescue groups of all sizes use Petfinder to bring attention to the animals they're trying to place. Your local shelter will likely have listings of pets for adoption on its own Web site, as well.

While some rescue groups that work with a single breed use Petfinder, many do not. To find these organizations, visit the American Kennel Club's Web site (www.akc.org) and look up the breed you're interested in. The national rescue contact will be listed.

Q&A

College pet? Not a good bet

Q: I truly desire to get a yellow Labrador, a year old or so, at the beginning of this summer. I am a college student, attending the University of Connecticut.

I know that I would take care of my dog responsibly, with the utmost of care. I only worry about where I can find a place that allows dogs. I was wondering what your thoughts are. Should I get a dog during college, or is it a completely horrible idea? I would really love to get one, and I am studying carefully to make sure I do the right thing. -- E.D., via the Internet

A: I honestly think you'd be better off waiting until you're done with college. The shelters and rescue groups of every college town in the country are constantly dealing with the former pets of college students. As you've already guessed, finding and keeping housing that allows pets is a major challenge. So, too, can be finding the time and energy to care for a pet when there's so much to do and try when you're in college. And don't forget that pets can be expensive to maintain, and very few college students have much money to spare.

Even if you can find suitable housing, have you thought about what you'll do with your dog during school breaks? If you're planning on going home when you're not in school, you might find your parents unwilling to have your dog become a member of the family, even temporarily.

Why don't you volunteer at a shelter instead? You'll be able to pet all the dogs you want, and by helping with their socialization, you'll be making the animals more likely to be adopted.

Vets for pets

Q: I am thinking of moving and was wondering how to find out about veterinary services in my new area. This is of special concern because I need to find care for my parrot and my bunny. I know these pets need veterinarians familiar with their particular health needs -- not just any veterinarian will do. Can you give me some insight? I always like to find the right veterinarians wherever I plan on moving. -- M.Y., via the Internet

A: While I don't know of any veterinarians who limit their practice to rabbits, there are certainly those who specialize in birds. To find a good avian veterinarian, check with the Association of Avian Veterinarians (www.aav.org). The member listings merely provide a starting point, however, since not all of the veterinarians listed are in practice. Even those who aren't should be able to provide you with a referral, as should your current avian veterinarian.

You might also check with bird clubs in the area you're considering moving to, or scan for listings of avian veterinarians in publications such as Bird Talk magazine. If you want a bona fide avian specialist, ask the veterinarian if he or she is board-certified in avian practice by the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners.

For your rabbit, see if you can find a veterinarian recommended by members of the House Rabbit Society on its Web site (www.rabbit.org). The HRS also has an article on its site on how to evaluate a veterinarian as to how suitable he or she will be for your rabbit.

People with reptiles and amphibians also need to find veterinarians well-versed in the care of these pets. For pet owners looking for these veterinarians, check out Melissa Kaplan's resources on www.anapsid.org/vets.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Dog get loose? Don't punish!

Punishing a dog for running from you is one surefire way to make sure he's even harder to catch the next time. Wouldn't you keep running if you knew you'd get punished when caught?

If your dog takes off on you, kneel down and open your arms when calling to make yourself more inviting. If that doesn't work, try to use a command he knows well, like "sit" instead of "come." Many dogs know "sit" so well that they'll plant their rumps, and once they're sitting, you might be able to walk up and take their collars. Another possibility is to catch your dog's attention and run in the other direction, enticing him to follow you. The chase instinct is very strong in dogs, and it may well work.

Remember, a loose dog situation is not about dog training, but about dog saving. When you have your dog safely back on leash, praise him, be grateful and make a vow that you'll take the time to teach him this most important of commands. Because next time he's out, you may not be so lucky to get him back in one piece.

PET Rx

A blimpy bird needs vet help

Amazon parrots, large cockatoos, cockatiels and budgies seem more prone to obesity than other species of pet birds. Some of the signs of obesity in birds include:

-- The presence of rolls of fat around the abdomen and hip areas, along with cleavage on the abdomen or breast area.

-- Visible fat under the skin. The skin of most normal pet birds is typically very thin and quite transparent. When the skin is wet with rubbing alcohol, you should be able to see dark pink or red muscle underneath. In overweight birds, you see yellowish fat instead.

-- Breathing difficulty, such as labored breathing, especially after physical exertion.

-- Heat intolerance, shown by excessive wing drooping or open-mouthed breathing in a hot environment.

-- Overgrown upper beaks. Some birds will grow their upper beaks excessively long if they have obesity and fatty liver disease problems. This is particularly true in Amazon parrots and budgies.

If you suspect your bird is fat -- and especially if you already know your bird is fat -- see your veterinarian right away for nutritional counseling and other ways to attack the problem.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Teach your cat to scratch a post

Scratching is natural, normal and satisfying behavior for a cat, best accommodated by training your pet to use a scratching post or cat tree.

The post or tree must be stable enough for your cat to climb and pull on, and should be covered with material your cat can dig her claws into, such as sisal.

Because clawing is also a territory marker, move the cat tree into a prominent place, such as near that clawed corner of the couch. Praise your cat for using the post instead. Move the post slowly -- a few inches a day -- to a place more to your taste after your cat is using it reliably.

Encourage your cat to use the scratching post by teasing her with a cat toy and praising her for digging in her claws. If your cat enjoys catnip, rub some on the post to encourage her to spend more time there, and give her treats for being on the cat tree as well.

Make the areas you don't want your pet to touch less appealing during the retraining process by covering them with foil, plastic sheeting or plastic carpet runners with the pointy side out. Use double-sided tape generously as well -- cats hate the feel of sticky stuff under their paws.

If you catch your cat clawing, squirt with a spray bottle. Try to stay out of sight whenever you do so and don't lose your temper. Remember: The idea is to get the cat to believe that the furniture itself is doing the disciplining.

Yes, your house is going to look pretty ugly for a while, with cat deterrents all over the furniture and a cat tree in the middle of the room. You must live with it until your cat's new pattern of clawing where acceptable is established.

BY THE NUMBERS

Hazards of the holidays

A recent analysis of claims submitted to the Veterinary Pet Insurance Co./DVM Insurance Agency suggests the holiday season can be dangerous for pets. Below are the most common holiday health problems and the average claim submitted to the company:

Surgery for foreign-body ingestion $825

Bandage treatment for injury $234

Chocolate poisoning $208

Plant poisoning $186

Hypothermia $181

Non-surgery treatment for fracture $132

ON THE WEB

A celebration of all goldens

Top Golden Retriever Sites (www.topgoldenretrieversites.net) is a helpful and wide-ranging resource for anyone who has or is considering adding one of these popular dogs to the family. The site offers articles, bulletin boards, a Web log, links, lots of pictures and even online games for golden lovers.

Much of the wisdom shared here comes from fans of the golden retriever, who are generous with their desire to help others determine if the breed is right for them, and if so, how to find the right puppy or dog from a reputable breeder or rescue group. There's even a special section for children, with a golden retriever coloring book and a quiz.

Discussion forums offer some interesting information, such as how much people spend on their dogs annually, what they feed and what their dogs weigh. There's even discussion on dogs and vacuums.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

In Praise of Poodles

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 21st, 2005

A friend of a friend, a co-worker from across the hall, another guest at a party ... someone will tell me he or she is looking for a perfect breed of dog for the family and ask me my opinion. The person will list the desired attributes: smart, easy to train, low-shedding, friendly, great with children.

I don't even have to think about it. "How about a poodle?" I say.

If the person who's asking is a man, chances are he'll make a disapproving face and tell me he was thinking of something more along the lines of a Labrador. If the person's a woman, I can put money on the prospect that she'll tell me her husband will never, ever go for a poodle.

I shrug, and think for the millionth time that what poodles need is a public-relations campaign. An image makeover, at the very least.

How can you ask for a dog better suited to more family situations than the poodle? The breed comes in three sizes -- the tiny toy, the still-small miniature and the full-sized standard -- and plenty of coat colors. They consistently rank near the top in intelligence and trainability. In smaller sizes, they're a clean and cheerful companion for a person who's not so mobile; in the full-sized version, they can be as outdoorsy as any other retriever.

Poodles were the top breed in the country for 23 years, displaced by cocker spaniels in the early '80s. (Labrador retrievers have held the top spot since 1990.) Year after year, poodles remain in the American Kennel Club's top 10, which says a lot about the devotion many feel for a breed that draws more than its share of snide remarks.

Most of those remarks, of course, have to do with the ridiculous fashions for show poodles. The grooming patterns are said to be based on protection for the water dog that the poodle is at heart, fashions taken to such extremes now as to be a silly parody of what a proud working dog might have once looked like.

Laugh if you want, because the great thing about a poodle is that he won't care. The genial poodle is as happy a dog as can be imagined, willing to join the party even if the laughs are at his own expense. The poodle lives to be happy, and is happy to share the joy.

Are there downsides to poodles? Of course. Those very coats that make them top show dogs and the butt of countless jokes require professional grooming at regular intervals. And all poodles, especially the smaller ones, tend to be barky.

As with any popular breed, poodles have plenty of health problems caused by careless breeding practices. The Poodle Club of America (www.poodleclubofamerica.org) lists more than a dozen serious congenital health problems, from Cushing's disease to epilepsy to luxated patellas, all of which may require lifelong veterinary care or surgery.

Healthy, well-socialized poodle puppies come from reputable breeders who are aware of the problems and breed only those animals certified clear of congenital health issues. Another possibility is to adopt a healthy adult poodle from a shelter or rescue group. The PCA offers referrals to breeders and breed-rescue groups on its Web site. You can also search for poodles in shelters and other rescue organizations by using Petfinder.org.

Is the poodle right for your family? If you can't take an occasional ribbing as well as a poodle can, maybe not. But if you're willing to look at what's really underneath that curly coat, you'll likely find a canine companion who's second to none.

SIDEBAR

Oodles of 'doodles'

The poodle has certainly had an impact when it comes to the creation of so-called "designer dogs" -- mixed breeds that recently have been in high demand.

The most common of these mixes has been around for decades: the cockapoo, a cross between a poodle and a cocker spaniel. More recently, mixes between Labradors and poodles (Labradoodles), golden retrievers and poodles (goldendoodles) and schnauzers and poodles (schnoodles) have become trendy.

"Doodle" breeders promote the mixes as hypo-allergenic (untrue, say allergists, in both poodles and poodle mixes) and healthier (debatable, say veterinarians, but the purebred vs. mixed-breed debate will never die). One thing that's certain: The prices are eye-popping, a thousand dollars (or even double that) for dogs that a decade ago would have been available for the price of a regular shelter adoption.

And still are, if you check the shelters and Web sites like Petfinder.com, where poodle mixes (and purebred poodles, for that matter) are plentiful.

Q&A

Keeping pets warm, heating bills down

Q: Gable, my tuxedo cat, is old and creaky. He likes to stay warm. But with heating prices what they are, I'm thinking of turning the heat way down while I'm at work. I just don't have a lot of money to spend on heating the apartment for my cat. He'll be OK, right? -- R.Y., via e-mail

A: The desire to find the warmest spots sometimes gets cats into trouble, such as when they snuggle up next to warm engine blocks after a car has been turned off, or snuggle into a pile of warm clothes sitting in a dryer. At this time of year, it's always good to check for a cat before you start your car or dryer.

As for saving on your heating bills, it's not necessary to heat your entire home to keep a pet warm. I always set my thermostat to 55 degrees overnight or when I'm not home.

Healthy younger cats and dogs can weather such cool temperatures just fine indoors, especially with comfortable beds to snuggle into. For older pets, I break out a heated bed to provide warmth for those creaky joints.

You can find electric heated beds or pet-safe heating elements at any pet-supply outlet. The Snuggle Safe ($20) is another option, a reusable heating element that you put in the microwave to charge and then slip into your pet's bedding. The manufacturer says it'll stay warm for up to 12 hours.

Puddling puppy

Q: We have a 6-month-old cockapoo, a very sweet little dog. However, we just can't seem to get her completely housebroken. When we come home, she pees right in front of us. We have yelled at her and spanked her, but she doesn't get it. Any suggestions? -- A.W., via e-mail

A: This isn't a house-training issue, but rather a behavior called "submissive urination" that's pretty common in gentle young dogs. Many outgrow the problem, but others need understanding and help to put the puddling behind them.

First, the understanding: What your dog's doing is something another dog would recognize as a show of respect to higher-ranked member of her "pack." It's a dog's way of saying, "I recognize that you're the boss, so please don't hurt me!"

Your dog's release of urine when she greets you is meant to be something of a canine compliment, strange as that may seem to us. Punishing a dog for submissive urination is the worst thing you can do, since it only makes you seem more dominant to your dog, who'll try even harder to appease you.

This puppy needs reward-based training and gentle socialization to gain confidence and to understand that while you're indeed the boss, you're a kind and benevolent one who doesn't require a show of urinary respect.

Instead of punishing your dog, take the stress out of your arrival home. When you come home, don't make a big deal out of your reunion with your pet. Instead, come in and ignore your dog for a few minutes, then greet her calmly and quietly. If she puddles, ignore it and clean it up without comment later. Squat down to interact with your dog and avoid direct eye contact to seem less intimidating.

Work to build your dog's confidence with basic obedience training that includes gentle praise and treats. As you develop a loving and trusting relationship with your dog, her submissive urination will likely decrease.

If you need help, please ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Watch for signs of pet's diabetes

Excessive eating, drinking, urination and weight loss are the common symptoms of diabetes in dogs and cats. A urinary tract infection may be another clue, because the presence of sugar in the urine that occurs in a diabetic animal produces an excellent environment for the growth of bacteria.

Any animal who displays these symptoms needs to be evaluated for diabetes by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

The cells of the body require the sugar known as glucose as food, and they depend on the bloodstream to bring glucose to them. They cannot, however, absorb and use glucose unless a hormone known as insulin is present. Insulin is produced by the pancreas, and in a diabetic animal, there isn't enough insulin production.

The result is that the body cannot detect the glucose present in the blood and is fooled into thinking starvation is occurring. As with a starving animal, the body starts breaking down, with disastrous results.

Treating diabetes is a matter of adding the proper amount of insulin, often with injections. Working with a veterinarian to maintain proper insulin levels is something many pet lovers are willing to do. With a dedicated owner and a veterinarian's help, many diabetic animals can enjoy a good quality of life for years.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

What it takes to specialize

Only those veterinarians who have earned additional certification are allowed to call themselves "specialists."

Specialists are called "board-certified" because testing for specialty knowledge is handled (and those extra letters are given out) by review boards, such as the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP) or the American College of Veterinary Internal Medical Practitioners (ACVIM).

To become board-certified by the ABVP in the care of a particular kind of animal (such as avian or feline medicine), a veterinarian must have been in practice for five years, must pass a rigorous credentialing process, and then must study for and pass a test.

Internal-medicine specialists such as cardiologists or oncologists work in a kind of medicine, not on a certain kind of animal, and earn their ACVIM credentials after serving residencies and then passing a test.

Board-certified specialists can be difficult to find if you don't live in a large urban area or near a college or school of veterinary medicine.

PET TIP

'Safe room' key to moving your cat

The best way to move with your cat is to confine him before and after moving day in a "safe room."

Choose a room where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and outfit it with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed and toys.

Confining your cat not only reduces his stress, but also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off and get lost, even in his familiar neighborhood, if he gets disoriented. Even if your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange if you need to leave before you find him, especially if you've moved to another city.

A safe room is also good for bringing a new cat into your home and for retraining any cat with furniture-destroying or litter-box-avoiding habits.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn't want to is hazardous to your health. After you arrive at your new home, don't pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to. After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want. But don't rush him and don't drag him out -- or you may be bitten or scratched.

When you have the rest of the house settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore his new home, on his terms.

BY THE NUMBERS

Where puppies play

Image: shepherd (no credit)

Optional cutline: The top two dog parks in the nation are in Texas.

The editors of Dog Fancy magazine teamed up with the manufacturers of the pain medication Deramaxx to rank U.S. dog parks based on a range of criteria from safety considerations to owner educational resources. The top 10:

1. Millie Bush Bark Park -- Houston

2. Fort Woof Dog Park -- Fort Worth, Texas

3. Alimagnet Dog Park -- Burnsville, Minn.

4. Tompkins Square Dog Run -- New York, N.Y.

5. University City Dog Play Area -- University City, Mo.

6. Piedmont Dog Park -- Atlanta

7. Wiggly Field -- Chicago

8. Chattanooga Chew Chew Canine Park - Chattanooga, Tenn.

9. Best Friend Dog Park -- Huntington Beach, Calif.

10. Hazeldale Dog Park -- Aloha, Ore.

ON THE WEB

Feline facts

Reader Carol Sulanke is a librarian, which means she is wonderful when it comes to finding the best information on any subject. So when she wrote me about the Cats International Web site (www.catsinternational.org), I had to take a look.

This well-designed site is the home of an organization dedicated to getting out good information on feline behavior and care, to help people and cats live more happily together. The articles run from common behavior problems (house-soiling, furniture-scratching) to interesting information about cats, and are well-written and reflect the latest behavioral advice. (As for fun facts: Did you know a cat will blink when his whiskers are touched? It's an automatic response designed to protect the eyes.)

The site also offers a behavior hot line for those who'd like to discuss their pet's problems directly. Links to other sites offering cat-friendly advice and products are also provided.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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