A friend of a friend, a co-worker from across the hall, another guest at a party ... someone will tell me he or she is looking for a perfect breed of dog for the family and ask me my opinion. The person will list the desired attributes: smart, easy to train, low-shedding, friendly, great with children.

I don't even have to think about it. "How about a poodle?" I say.

If the person who's asking is a man, chances are he'll make a disapproving face and tell me he was thinking of something more along the lines of a Labrador. If the person's a woman, I can put money on the prospect that she'll tell me her husband will never, ever go for a poodle.

I shrug, and think for the millionth time that what poodles need is a public-relations campaign. An image makeover, at the very least.

How can you ask for a dog better suited to more family situations than the poodle? The breed comes in three sizes -- the tiny toy, the still-small miniature and the full-sized standard -- and plenty of coat colors. They consistently rank near the top in intelligence and trainability. In smaller sizes, they're a clean and cheerful companion for a person who's not so mobile; in the full-sized version, they can be as outdoorsy as any other retriever.

Poodles were the top breed in the country for 23 years, displaced by cocker spaniels in the early '80s. (Labrador retrievers have held the top spot since 1990.) Year after year, poodles remain in the American Kennel Club's top 10, which says a lot about the devotion many feel for a breed that draws more than its share of snide remarks.

Most of those remarks, of course, have to do with the ridiculous fashions for show poodles. The grooming patterns are said to be based on protection for the water dog that the poodle is at heart, fashions taken to such extremes now as to be a silly parody of what a proud working dog might have once looked like.

Laugh if you want, because the great thing about a poodle is that he won't care. The genial poodle is as happy a dog as can be imagined, willing to join the party even if the laughs are at his own expense. The poodle lives to be happy, and is happy to share the joy.

Are there downsides to poodles? Of course. Those very coats that make them top show dogs and the butt of countless jokes require professional grooming at regular intervals. And all poodles, especially the smaller ones, tend to be barky.

As with any popular breed, poodles have plenty of health problems caused by careless breeding practices. The Poodle Club of America (www.poodleclubofamerica.org) lists more than a dozen serious congenital health problems, from Cushing's disease to epilepsy to luxated patellas, all of which may require lifelong veterinary care or surgery.

Healthy, well-socialized poodle puppies come from reputable breeders who are aware of the problems and breed only those animals certified clear of congenital health issues. Another possibility is to adopt a healthy adult poodle from a shelter or rescue group. The PCA offers referrals to breeders and breed-rescue groups on its Web site. You can also search for poodles in shelters and other rescue organizations by using Petfinder.org.

Is the poodle right for your family? If you can't take an occasional ribbing as well as a poodle can, maybe not. But if you're willing to look at what's really underneath that curly coat, you'll likely find a canine companion who's second to none.

SIDEBAR

Oodles of 'doodles'

The poodle has certainly had an impact when it comes to the creation of so-called "designer dogs" -- mixed breeds that recently have been in high demand.

The most common of these mixes has been around for decades: the cockapoo, a cross between a poodle and a cocker spaniel. More recently, mixes between Labradors and poodles (Labradoodles), golden retrievers and poodles (goldendoodles) and schnauzers and poodles (schnoodles) have become trendy.

"Doodle" breeders promote the mixes as hypo-allergenic (untrue, say allergists, in both poodles and poodle mixes) and healthier (debatable, say veterinarians, but the purebred vs. mixed-breed debate will never die). One thing that's certain: The prices are eye-popping, a thousand dollars (or even double that) for dogs that a decade ago would have been available for the price of a regular shelter adoption.

And still are, if you check the shelters and Web sites like Petfinder.com, where poodle mixes (and purebred poodles, for that matter) are plentiful.

Q&A

Keeping pets warm, heating bills down

Q: Gable, my tuxedo cat, is old and creaky. He likes to stay warm. But with heating prices what they are, I'm thinking of turning the heat way down while I'm at work. I just don't have a lot of money to spend on heating the apartment for my cat. He'll be OK, right? -- R.Y., via e-mail

A: The desire to find the warmest spots sometimes gets cats into trouble, such as when they snuggle up next to warm engine blocks after a car has been turned off, or snuggle into a pile of warm clothes sitting in a dryer. At this time of year, it's always good to check for a cat before you start your car or dryer.

As for saving on your heating bills, it's not necessary to heat your entire home to keep a pet warm. I always set my thermostat to 55 degrees overnight or when I'm not home.

Healthy younger cats and dogs can weather such cool temperatures just fine indoors, especially with comfortable beds to snuggle into. For older pets, I break out a heated bed to provide warmth for those creaky joints.

You can find electric heated beds or pet-safe heating elements at any pet-supply outlet. The Snuggle Safe ($20) is another option, a reusable heating element that you put in the microwave to charge and then slip into your pet's bedding. The manufacturer says it'll stay warm for up to 12 hours.

Puddling puppy

Q: We have a 6-month-old cockapoo, a very sweet little dog. However, we just can't seem to get her completely housebroken. When we come home, she pees right in front of us. We have yelled at her and spanked her, but she doesn't get it. Any suggestions? -- A.W., via e-mail

A: This isn't a house-training issue, but rather a behavior called "submissive urination" that's pretty common in gentle young dogs. Many outgrow the problem, but others need understanding and help to put the puddling behind them.

First, the understanding: What your dog's doing is something another dog would recognize as a show of respect to higher-ranked member of her "pack." It's a dog's way of saying, "I recognize that you're the boss, so please don't hurt me!"

Your dog's release of urine when she greets you is meant to be something of a canine compliment, strange as that may seem to us. Punishing a dog for submissive urination is the worst thing you can do, since it only makes you seem more dominant to your dog, who'll try even harder to appease you.

This puppy needs reward-based training and gentle socialization to gain confidence and to understand that while you're indeed the boss, you're a kind and benevolent one who doesn't require a show of urinary respect.

Instead of punishing your dog, take the stress out of your arrival home. When you come home, don't make a big deal out of your reunion with your pet. Instead, come in and ignore your dog for a few minutes, then greet her calmly and quietly. If she puddles, ignore it and clean it up without comment later. Squat down to interact with your dog and avoid direct eye contact to seem less intimidating.

Work to build your dog's confidence with basic obedience training that includes gentle praise and treats. As you develop a loving and trusting relationship with your dog, her submissive urination will likely decrease.

If you need help, please ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Watch for signs of pet's diabetes

Excessive eating, drinking, urination and weight loss are the common symptoms of diabetes in dogs and cats. A urinary tract infection may be another clue, because the presence of sugar in the urine that occurs in a diabetic animal produces an excellent environment for the growth of bacteria.

Any animal who displays these symptoms needs to be evaluated for diabetes by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

The cells of the body require the sugar known as glucose as food, and they depend on the bloodstream to bring glucose to them. They cannot, however, absorb and use glucose unless a hormone known as insulin is present. Insulin is produced by the pancreas, and in a diabetic animal, there isn't enough insulin production.

The result is that the body cannot detect the glucose present in the blood and is fooled into thinking starvation is occurring. As with a starving animal, the body starts breaking down, with disastrous results.

Treating diabetes is a matter of adding the proper amount of insulin, often with injections. Working with a veterinarian to maintain proper insulin levels is something many pet lovers are willing to do. With a dedicated owner and a veterinarian's help, many diabetic animals can enjoy a good quality of life for years.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

What it takes to specialize

Only those veterinarians who have earned additional certification are allowed to call themselves "specialists."

Specialists are called "board-certified" because testing for specialty knowledge is handled (and those extra letters are given out) by review boards, such as the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP) or the American College of Veterinary Internal Medical Practitioners (ACVIM).

To become board-certified by the ABVP in the care of a particular kind of animal (such as avian or feline medicine), a veterinarian must have been in practice for five years, must pass a rigorous credentialing process, and then must study for and pass a test.

Internal-medicine specialists such as cardiologists or oncologists work in a kind of medicine, not on a certain kind of animal, and earn their ACVIM credentials after serving residencies and then passing a test.

Board-certified specialists can be difficult to find if you don't live in a large urban area or near a college or school of veterinary medicine.

PET TIP

'Safe room' key to moving your cat

The best way to move with your cat is to confine him before and after moving day in a "safe room."

Choose a room where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and outfit it with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed and toys.

Confining your cat not only reduces his stress, but also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off and get lost, even in his familiar neighborhood, if he gets disoriented. Even if your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange if you need to leave before you find him, especially if you've moved to another city.

A safe room is also good for bringing a new cat into your home and for retraining any cat with furniture-destroying or litter-box-avoiding habits.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn't want to is hazardous to your health. After you arrive at your new home, don't pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to. After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want. But don't rush him and don't drag him out -- or you may be bitten or scratched.

When you have the rest of the house settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore his new home, on his terms.

BY THE NUMBERS

Where puppies play

Image: shepherd (no credit)

Optional cutline: The top two dog parks in the nation are in Texas.

The editors of Dog Fancy magazine teamed up with the manufacturers of the pain medication Deramaxx to rank U.S. dog parks based on a range of criteria from safety considerations to owner educational resources. The top 10:

1. Millie Bush Bark Park -- Houston

2. Fort Woof Dog Park -- Fort Worth, Texas

3. Alimagnet Dog Park -- Burnsville, Minn.

4. Tompkins Square Dog Run -- New York, N.Y.

5. University City Dog Play Area -- University City, Mo.

6. Piedmont Dog Park -- Atlanta

7. Wiggly Field -- Chicago

8. Chattanooga Chew Chew Canine Park - Chattanooga, Tenn.

9. Best Friend Dog Park -- Huntington Beach, Calif.

10. Hazeldale Dog Park -- Aloha, Ore.

ON THE WEB

Feline facts

Reader Carol Sulanke is a librarian, which means she is wonderful when it comes to finding the best information on any subject. So when she wrote me about the Cats International Web site (www.catsinternational.org), I had to take a look.

This well-designed site is the home of an organization dedicated to getting out good information on feline behavior and care, to help people and cats live more happily together. The articles run from common behavior problems (house-soiling, furniture-scratching) to interesting information about cats, and are well-written and reflect the latest behavioral advice. (As for fun facts: Did you know a cat will blink when his whiskers are touched? It's an automatic response designed to protect the eyes.)

The site also offers a behavior hot line for those who'd like to discuss their pet's problems directly. Links to other sites offering cat-friendly advice and products are also provided.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If there's one part of veterinary medicine that seems to concern the average pet lover most, it's anesthesia.

Some pet lovers consider anesthesia so high-risk that they hesitate to OK or even refuse entirely elective procedures that have long-term benefits to an animal's health and comfort. Other pet lovers think anesthesia is too expensive, blaming changes in protocols for increased cost.

The good news about veterinary anesthesia is that although it can never be risk-free, it's safer and more comfortable than ever. The bad news is that those things that improve safety for pets do indeed increase the cost.

"Anesthesia is absolutely safer now," says Dr. Rachael Carpenter, assistant professor of anesthesia and pain management at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine. "One of the reasons is because the monitoring of anesthesia has come over into the veterinary field from human medicine.

"Monitors warn of problems early, and it's more likely these days for there to be someone whose sole job is to watch those machines and watch that patient," says Carpenter, who's also an anesthesia consultant to the Veterinary Information Network. "And that's not the person who's doing the surgery. Even without monitoring machines, it's important to have someone checking heart rate and breathing."

The simplest definition of anesthesia is putting an animal into an unconscious state so the pet will be immobile and pain-free while a procedure is performed.

While many pet-lovers probably think of veterinary anesthesia as a gas given through a mask over the animal's face, in fact the modern practice of preparing an animal for surgery is a no-size-fits-all combination of injectable medications (often combining anesthesia and pain-control agents), anesthesia-inducing gas and pure oxygen, the latter two delivered through a breathing tube to maintain an animal's unconscious state.

In addition to constant anesthetic monitoring by machines and trained technicians, the use of intravenous fluids during anesthesia is another safety measure, meant to allow a veterinarian to react rapidly if something unexpected happens during surgery.

"If there's an emergency, you want instant access to a vein," says Carpenter, who also puts keeping animals warm during anesthesia on her safety checklist. "An animal being cold is a big problem," she says. "It delays healing, and the shivering increases oxygen consumption."

Pre-anesthetic screening is also important when it comes to reducing risk.

"A good physical exam is the place to start," says Carpenter. "The veterinarian needs to determine underlying problems and recommend pre-anesthetic blood work based on what's found on the exam.

"In a young pet, that could be just checking for anemia. In an older pet, that means a complete blood count, determining kidney and liver function, making sure all organs are OK. An older pet is more likely to have problems than a 6-month-old Labrador bouncing in for a spay."

Carpenter says even in older pets, health problems don't necessarily rule out the benefits of procedures that require a pet be put under. "You have to balance risks with the benefits, and discuss them with your veterinarian. How much pain is the animal in? Has your pet has stopped eating because of a rotting tooth? That needs to be addressed."

And for a pet who's simply older? Age alone used to be a concern, but shouldn't be anymore. "Age isn't a disease," Carpenter says. "If an animal is healthy in every other way, age shouldn't be a factor."

The protocols outlined by Carpenter are not universal in veterinary medicine, and expense is no doubt the primary reason. It's important to have a frank discussion with your veterinarian before your pet has surgery, to understand how your pet will be treated and why. With a knowledge of what's available, you'll be able to make an informed decision when it comes to anesthesia and your pet.

Q&A

Which parrot is best pick?

Q: We have long enjoyed keeping small birds over the years, and have had many finches, canaries and parakeets. We're birdless right now, and recently retired so we are at home most of the time. We've decided to get a parrot.

We've always liked the look and personalities of cockatoos, but it seems they're a lot of bird to handle from what we've read. The large beaks of macaws seem too intimidating, so we've ruled them out, too. Maybe something smaller? We're thinking of an Amazon now, and have found one for sale, an adult female who comes with a cage. She's quiet and doesn't talk much, and we wonder if she'll learn more. What do you think? -- P.B., via the Internet

A: If you're interested in a talker, the two best species are the African greys and the Amazons, especially the yellow-naped and double-yellow-headed varieties of the latter. Both species learn quickly and can be equally challenging and delightful to live with, although the Amazons are generally considered a little more clownish.

The Amazon you're considering may indeed be a winner, as long as her quiet demeanor is not a result of illness. Birds are amazingly good at hiding signs of illness. It's a survival mechanism for wild birds, who would attract the attention of a predator if they seemed sick. People who do not know this often do not realize their pet is sick until their bird is nearly dead -- and at that point, there may be nothing the veterinarian can do to help. Before you buy any bird, have your new pet checked out by an avian veterinarian.

As for talking, she may well learn new words and phrases if you work with her, repeating them clearly and frequently. There's no guarantee, however, that any parrot will talk.

If you're looking for a parrot who's not as rambunctious and noisy as either the African greys or the Amazons, consider the smaller African Poicephalus parrots -- the Senegal, Meyer's and Jardine's -- as well as any of the Pionus varieties. While these birds are not known for talking, they are considered fairly mellow, sweet-natured and easy to keep.

A final note: Remember that parrots live a long, long time -- as long as 70 years for some species -- so after you've settled your new bird into your home, please take time to make plans for what will happen to your pet if he or she outlives you.

Is catnip safe?

Q: When our cat comes into contact with catnip, he gets so relaxed he rolls onto his back and goes into a daze. Any signs of playfulness he was showing disappear after he comes into contact with catnip. Do you think we should stop giving it to him? Is this reaction safe? -- D.K., via the Internet

A: Every cat reacts in his own way to catnip. Some will be giddy, some dazed, and a large percentage won't react at all. (Kittens under the age of 3 months are not affected.)

The ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed, with slightly more cats in the catnip fan club than not. Catnip contains a substance called "nepetalactone" in its leaves and stems, and this is what sets cats off. Rolling, rubbing, leaping, purring and general uninhibited happiness are all normal for a few minutes after exposure. The "high" is harmless and nonaddictive.

Catnip is fairly easy to grow for your pet. Be sure to protect young plants, or your cats will pull them up by the roots. Clip pieces from established plants for your cat, stuffing them into toys or rubbing them on cat trees.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Cat treats grow in popularity

After years of commercial treats being only for dogs, the cat treat market is now racing to catch up. Giving your cat a little something special from time to time isn't going to do him any harm and can be very useful in training situations. A few things to keep in mind, however:

-- All things in moderation. Treats, whether store-bought or from your dinner plate, aren't a complete and balanced diet for your cat. Make sure the majority of his diet is still high-quality, complete and balanced.

-- Avoid some foods entirely. Food that's heavily spiced or has onions can upset your cat's digestion, leading to diarrhea or vomiting. Onion can also lead to severe blood problems in cats. Avoid onion or onion powder in foods you prepare for your cat and in baby foods you may use as an occasional treat or for nursing a sick cat (the latter under the supervision of your veterinarian, of course).

-- Consider your cat. If you give your cat treats from your plate, you can't complain that he's a pest at mealtime. And if your cat's supposed to be losing weight, you shouldn't give him a treat at all.

We humans tend to confuse food with love, and we extend this idea to our interactions with our companion animals. Your cat doesn't really need much in the way of treats. Pet your cat, play an interactive game or just hang out together -- these activities are better options in the long run than overdoing the goodies. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Hairballs can be kept in check

Dealing with hairballs -- fur ingested as a cat grooms himself, then vomited back up in clumps -- is a normal part of living with a cat. If the problem is severe, however, your veterinarian may suggest the use of a mild laxative preparation or an increase in fiber in the diet to help the hairballs pass through your cat's system. Frequent brushing may also help, especially with long-haired cats.

Canned pumpkin -- not pumpkin pie filling -- is a good way to increase the fiber in your cat's diet. Many cats enjoy a teaspoon of pureed pumpkin daily if it's mixed with something yummy, such as canned food or the water from a can of tuna or clams.

Don't let your cat become a laxative junkie, however, as daily use may tie up and decrease the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins. Hairball remedies should not be used more than twice weekly except on the advice of your veterinarian.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

New baby? Help your dog adjust

Some people consider a dog as kind of a "parenting trial run," and suggest that when you're ready to have children "for real" you should find your dog another home. Because of this, some dogs end up in shelters in a pre-emptive strike against any potential problem interactions of dog and baby.

Sometimes those worries are justified. If you have a dog who bites, get help from a trainer or behaviorist with experience in dealing with aggression. And realize there's a chance even with training that you may not be able to trust your dog around your child, which means you have some very difficult decisions to make about your dog.

More likely, though, you've just got a dog whose exuberance worries you. The best exercise for this is obedience training, with an emphasis on "down" and "stay." A couple of private lessons from a good dog trainer will help you through the rough spots.

Give your dog praise and treats only in the baby's presence for several weeks. He'll soon make the connection that the baby's a cool thing. If you pay attention to your dog only when you're away from the baby and ignore him when the baby's around, he never makes the connection between "cool thing" and "baby."

Aside from that, the usual "good dog" rule applies: The more exercise your dog gets, the better behaved he's likely to be. Managing both an infant and a dog in the first few months is hard, so maybe a friend or neighbor can help you out with walks or you can find another creative solution. Another option: doggy day care.

An excellent book on introducing dogs and babies is "Childproofing Your Dog: A Complete Guide to Preparing Your Dog for the Children in Your Life" ($9.95, Warner Books), by Sarah Wilson and Brian Kilcommmons. -- G.S.

BY THE NUMBERS

Reptile shopping

According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, reptiles and amphibians kept as pets are likely to have come from a small pet store. Here's the breakdown of the top sources in 2004 for pet reptiles:

Pet store 38 percent

Friend/relative 17 percent

Caught outside 17 percent

Pet superstore 9 percent

Previous owner 9 percent

Humane society 7 percent

Independent breeder 5 percent

ON THE WEB

Groups help give animals a voice

Like many writers, I belong to a handful of national writing organizations. The two I've been most active in over the years have been the Dog Writers Association of America (www.dwaa.org) and the Cat Writers Association (www.catwriters.org). The DWAA is decades old, founded during a time when most major newspapers had one staff writer whose job it was to cover dog shows. These days, the organization embraces all kinds of writing, photography and broadcasting about dogs.

The CWA is a relative newcomer on the scene, but it has developed a large membership in just over a decade. The group also founded a wonderful annual writing conference, which it now holds in conjunction with the DWAA. This year's conference is Nov. 18-20 in San Mateo, Calif.

Both organizations also hold annual writing contests with cash prizes, and are generally helpful and supportive to new members. -- G.S.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every year the holidays seem to start earlier. The Halloween sales start before the first trick-or-treater dons a costume, and the first signs of Christmas start showing up in the stores about the same time.

For me, the holiday season starts with the first letter from a parent asking for advice on a Christmas puppy. This year, a new record: late September, about the same time as I spotted the first Christmas decorations being unpacked in a shop.

I have to give those early parents points for thinking ahead, because a pet should never be an impulse purchase. But year after year, I still have to advise that a Christmas puppy is rarely the best of ideas.

The attraction is understandable: Who doesn't love a puppy, and who wouldn't want to delight a child? But there are reasons why shelters, rescue groups and responsible breeders are uniform in their advice to think twice about a Christmas puppy.

What's the problem? The reasons against a Christmas puppy break down into these categories:

-- Holiday stress. Puppies are not toys. They are animals who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays, that stressful season of socializing and shopping? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get house-training started right?

Most people I know are already working at maximum stress levels during the holidays, trying to get everything done on time. To get a puppy off to the right start, the animal needs to be No. 1 on the family priority list. That rarely can happen during the holidays.

-- Bad timing. Try house-training a puppy when it's cold and stormy. Are you really so keen on the idea of a Christmas puppy that you want to be out on winter nights, shivering while a puppy carefully contemplates whether he'd rather sniff or pee?

What about the rest of the training? The first few months of a dog's life are crucial: Bad habits are far easier to prevent than they are to break later, and ongoing socialization is critical. Will you really feel like training and socializing your pup when the holidays are over, the days are short, and the kids are back in school?

Dogs who grow up unhouse-trained, unmannered and unsocialized too often never get a chance to grow up much at all. From summer to fall, I get dozens and dozens of letters from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppy. Some people work with the dogs, but many just dump them. Sad for the families, tragic for the dogs.

-- Poor selection. Many reputable breeders and shelters flat-out won't cooperate with your Christmas puppy lust. That means if you're looking for a puppy, you may be choosing from sellers who don't know or care enough to offer healthy, well-socialized puppies.

With purebred dogs and the new trendy cross-breds, this can be a real problem because congenital defects such as hip dysplasia turn up frequently in animals from sellers who don't certify their breeding dogs as free of congenital defects. Such breeders may not know of the potential for problems, or they may not care because health certifications cut into profits. Their lack of regard for reputable breeding practices may cost you in the long run, both in dollars and in heartbreak, if you buy a puppy from such a person.

Such breeders also may not know or care about the importance of early socialization, gently exposing puppies to the sights, sounds and smells of family life, and leaving them with their mom and littermates for at least the first seven weeks of their lives. Puppies who miss these important early lessons may end up with less than ideal temperaments.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. A better bet would be to wait until late spring or summer to find the perfect pup from a shelter or reputable breeder. When the days are longer and the weather is better, it's easier to train and socialize a pup.

It's difficult to pass on that lovely Christmas morning moment, but if your goal is a healthy, well-socialized pet for years to come, wait until the odds are more in your family's favor when it comes to getting the right puppy off to a great start.

Q&A

Poodle needs to be spayed

Q: How many times in a row should a female toy poodle be bred? -- D.B., via e-mail

A: Before I answer your question, I have some questions for you to think about.

Has this dog been certified clear of genetic defects? Does she have a stellar temperament -- friendly, calm and trainable? Is she a good example of her breed in terms of her appearance? Can you say the same of the stud dog?

Do you have money set aside for routine prenatal veterinary care and puppy care, and even more money at the ready if something goes wrong with the dog or the puppies? Are you prepared for the dog's death as a result of pregnancy or the rigors of giving birth? What about the risk of cancer or deadly infection common in unspayed dogs -- are you willing to lose her to these diseases?

Will you have a waiting list of responsible, prescreened homes for her puppies before they're born? Are you prepared to spend countless hours caring for and socializing the puppies in the first seven weeks of their lives? Will you be willing to take back any puppy you sell no matter what, no matter when?

If you cannot answer "yes" to all these questions, the dog in question should not be bred at all. Reputable, responsible breeders are not in it for the money, but rather for the continuation and improvement of the breed they love. They rarely breed a female more than twice before spaying her, and many of the promising dogs they have they do not breed at all because they are not of top breeding quality. These breeders also take responsibility for life for any dog they bring into the world.

I realize that's not the simple answer you wanted, but the responsible breeding of dogs is about more than mechanics of reproduction. Careless breeding of purebreds has produced animals of dubious temperament and poor health, while adding to the pet overpopulation problems that lead to the death of millions of healthy but unwanted animals every year. And that figure includes many purebred dogs.

Please spay your pet and care for her as a family member, not as a puppy machine. She'll be better, healthier pet for not being bred at all, and you won't be contributing to the problems caused by the careless overbreeding of pets.

Check for cats

Q: I know you always give people warnings appropriate to the change of season, such as those on heat in the summer, antifreeze in the winter, etc. I wonder if you've warned people about the risk that clothes dryers pose to cats. I have a friend who killed her own cat after she turned on the dryer with her cat inside. She was devastated, as you can imagine. Would you please spread the word about this hazard? -- J.D., via e-mail

A: Cats love warm hiding places, and a dryer full of soft clothes can be attractive. It's easy to throw more clothes in, close the door and turn on the dryer without noticing a cat inside. Two people I've worked with lost pets in this awful way, as well as several other readers over the years who've written after such a loss.

Prevention is simple: Keep the dryer door closed and always check for your cat -- just in case. Keep an eye out, too, for cats holed up in any warm spot, including under the hood of a car. Thump on the hood or the side of an appliance if you're not sure, to startle the cat into skedaddling.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Hay, greens keep rabbits healthy

Diet has a huge impact on the health and well-being of any creature, and the rabbit is no exception. Common health problems in the rabbit directly relate to diet, and include obesity, gastrointestinal diseases and dental disease.

All pet rabbits need a high level of indigestible fiber, which, along with adequate water, is vital for the normal and healthy functioning of their gastrointestinal system. Rabbits need to have their levels of carbohydrates and protein controlled to avoid obesity and kidney disease.

Properly fed rabbits do not need supplements added to their diets. Rabbits produce a good portion of their own vitamins, amino acids and other nutrients through the production and re-eating of special feces called cecotropes.

A basic healthy daily diet for a domestic rabbit should include unlimited grass hay and a minimum of one cup of fresh leafy greens for every two pounds of body weight. Use as many varieties of greens as possible, and offer other vegetables and fruits as well, in more limited amounts. Rabbits also need an ongoing supply of fresh, clean water.

Pet rabbits do not need commercial food pellets. If used at all, pellets should be of a high-fiber, low-protein variety, given in very small amounts. Pellets should never be the only food for a pet rabbit.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Think 'barriers' not 'punishment'

Do you have a pet who likes to rummage in the bathroom wastebaskets or kitchen trash bin? This behavior is very rewarding to the pet who indulges in it and can be a hard habit to break. You can try to booby-trap the cans by buying motion-detector noisemakers, or mats that give animal trespassers a small static shock for getting close.

An easier, kinder and more reliable way to solve the problem is to simply remove the temptation. For some pets, a lidded trash bin will solve the problem. For others, you'll need to put the bin behind the door of a cabinet or pantry.

I ended my young dog's interest in the garbage bin by using both strategies. In the bathroom, the wastebasket is now behind the door of the cabinet under the sink. In the kitchen, I purchased a large stainless-steel trash container from simplehuman (www.simplehuman.com), with a butterfly lid that opens with foot pressure on a base pedal and closes tightly against nosy pets.

Sometimes, changing your behavior is the most efficient way to change your pet's behavior -- and the strategy is easier on you both.

THE SCOOP

Daily cleaning a bird-care essential

Cleaning up after birds is a constant battle, but getting yourself into a routine makes it easier to cope with. A few minutes a day is all it takes.

Every morning and evening you should replace soiled cage liners. You should also change food bowls and water bowls (or bottles) twice a day -- more often if your bird is one of those who will eliminate in the bowls. If you use a water bottle with your bird, check frequently to ensure that it's not clogged -- some birds will stuff food into the spout -- by pressing the ball with your finger.

Finish off your twice-daily routine by using a bird-safe cleaning solution and paper towels to wipe up any messes, and use a handheld vacuum to clean up strewn food or feathers in the vicinity. Your dishwasher is a great tool for cleaning everything from perches to dishes to toys -- use the hottest setting possible.

While daily attention will keep things pretty clean, you'll need to do a big scrub on a regular basis -- walls, floors, cage and all its contents. How often depends on your bird: Big birds are generally messier, if for no other reason than the sheer volume of droppings. Some smaller species are real mess-makers too, such as the lories and lorikeets.

If your bird's really good at mess-making, you'll need to do the big clean on a weekly basis. Neater (and smaller) species can usually get by on a monthly scrub-down, provided, of course, you're religious about your daily routines. Toys should be cleaned and rotated frequently and replaced as necessary.

For the big clean, scrub the cage with soap and water, then rinse well in plain water. Soak everything you can't fit into the dishwasher -- big perches, dropping tray and so on -- in a solution of a half-cup bleach to a gallon of water. Then leave everything out to air-dry in the sun before setting the cage back up and putting your bird back into it.

BY THE NUMBERS

Dressing up fish

According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, people who keep freshwater fish such as goldfish also spend money on adding decorative items to their pets' bowls and tanks. A few of the most popular purchases (by percentage reported purchased by fish-keepers) include:

Artificial rock: 57 percent

Background scenery: 42 percent

Gravel/sand/crushed coral: 62 percent

Plastic plants: 61 percent

Ornaments: 41 percent

Natural rock: 25 percent

Live plants: 18 percent

ON THE WEB

For ferret fans

The American Ferret Association (www.ferret.org) started as a small club in suburban Maryland dedicated to promoting one of the least understood pets. It has grown into a national association, expanding its goals to include fighting to eliminate laws that ban the animals.

The AFA's Web site has come a long way since I last visited it, adding a great deal of useful information on the proper care of these pets, including referrals to ferret-friendly veterinarians. The site also lists shelters and rescue groups for adopting a ferret, as well as ferret-related jewelry, clothing and books.

Ferrets are still illegal in California, but so common that ferret supplies are available in many pet-supply stores in the state. The Ferrets Anonymous Web site (www.ferretsanonymous.com), in addition to promoting legalization of the pets, is dedicated to helping California's ferret-keepers take good care of their animals.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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