Bonney Brown seems oddly upbeat for woman who has seen some pretty awful things since Hurricane Katrina slammed into the states along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico.

Working in the devastated New Orleans area, the spokeswoman for the Bethesda, Md.-based Alley Cat Allies is one of countless people -- many of them volunteers -- who have struggled to save stranded animals and to get them reunited with their owners, if at all possible.

"You plop your sleeping bag on the floor next to five other people," she says of working in the disaster zone. "No electricity. Cold water. But at least no one complained about the cold water because the weather was so hot."

Brown isn't complaining, either, because like many of the people down there, she knew the animals were counting on her.

"We were responding to the need," she says. "This situation was really outside of our mission, which is advocating for trap-neuter-release for feral cats. This disaster really caught everyone -- not just the humane movement, but also the government -- off-guard."

That sort of cope-as-you-go attitude is one that all animal rescue volunteers need, says Brown, whose group put up a "help wanted" post on their Web site (www.alleycat.org) to let prospective volunteers know what they'd be in for if they came to help.

The recent disasters got a lot of people who'd never helped before heading down to pitch in, and a lot of others wondering if they have what it takes to help. Brown is happy to offer some tips, based on her group's experience, because she knows the time will come again when animals will need saving.

Animal-rescue volunteers need to be willing and able to work long hours in difficult conditions and commit to several days in the field, says Brown. "We would start at 7 a.m. and give out assignments for the day. We had teams coming back at 9 or 10 at night. That's especially important when you're looking for cats, because they tend to be nocturnal."

Emotional stamina is likewise needed by those working in disaster areas. "Our people were in the place where the animals had been shot," says Brown. "Other animals were found dead in their carriers after people had to leave them behind. The animals were found three weeks after the hurricane. You can imagine what that's like. You're happy to find a live cat."

Brown says groups realize that everyone can't handle the search-and-rescue aspect of disaster relief. "Clearly some people aren't cut out for going in and seeing animals who didn't survive," she says. "But we discovered we needed other people who could do data-entry on the animals as they came in, or handle the less glamorous tasks of caring for animals until they could be reunited or re-homed."

It's all about being able to pitch in without complaining, get dirty and do what it takes to get the job done, says Brown, and although people with rescue or medical experience are especially needed during a crisis, someone who can work the phones can be invaluable, too, even if they're in the home office hundreds of miles away. Some will work to organize the donation and flow of supplies, while others will talk directly to pet-lovers who need help.

"The person who can charge into a building and find the animal isn't the same one who talks to the owner on the phone," says Brown. "The phone person needs to be empathetic, especially since you might not be able to help the person who's calling and looking for a pet."

But when you are able to help, says Brown, it makes all the hardships worthwhile. For the animal rescuers, seeing an animal go home is the biggest reward of all.

SIDEBAR

Preparing for the next time

Although many animal-rescue volunteers have jumped in to help without any training, it's advisable to prepare for a disaster in advance.

The animal-rescue organization Noah's Wish (www.noahswish.org) offers training to prospective disaster-response volunteers at regularly scheduled events throughout the United States and Canada. Information on the 2006 training seminars is at the organization's Web site. The cost for the three-day seminar is $150, which includes a manual.

Q&A

Viggo the cat needs a friend

Q: Viggo is our cat, and he's a young adult, according to the vet's best guess. We have opted to keep him indoors, but I think he's lonely and bored. I want to adopt another cat, but I'm not sure if it's better to go girl or boy. Is there an advantage to one or the other? -- G.D., via e-mail

A: In general, it's good to mix the genders: Since you have a male already, a female may be the better choice. That said, I know many people happily caring for same-sex pairs of cats who get along splendidly.

Male and female cats make equally good pets, under one very important condition: altering. No matter the gender, a cat who is what the experts call "whole" or "intact" (in other words, fully equipped to reproduce) can be a royal pain to live with.

When females are in season, which happens pretty much whenever they're not pregnant, they're yowly escape artists who attract noisy suitors from miles around. Some people think males are even worse. By the time they're sexually mature, males begin spraying, marking territory with a special pheromone-spiked urine that has a smell that's not only foul but also nearly impossible to eradicate. Intact males are also roamers and fighters.

After cats are altered, is one gender a better pet than the other? The answer depends on whom you ask. Some people believe males are a little more outgoing; others suggest that females are smarter. Perhaps the biggest reason some people prefer one gender over another can be summed up by using the word "always" -- they have always had males (or females), have always been happy with their choices, and see no reason to change.

Tell the adoption counselors at your local shelter that you're trying to find a companion for your cat, and they should be able to narrow down the choices and help you find Viggo the friend he needs.

Wings need clipping

Q: I ran across an article of yours on the Internet, where you advised people on keeping parrots' wings clipped. I think it's cruel to do that. Our Hahn's macaw is never outside, so escape is not an option. In the house, she is allowed to fly. It's only natural, and I don't see what it hurts. Will you spread the word? -- F.H., via the Internet

A: I'm afraid I can't. Even inside the house, the dangers are too many for a flighted parrot. You've been lucky so far, but that luck could change.

Any avian veterinarian can tell you about birds who have slammed into windows or landed in sizzling frying pans or boiling pots of water. Overhead fans are another hazard. Some birds have even flown into an open toilet and drowned.

You may be careful about keeping your bird inside, but slip-ups do happen. It takes only one door or window open just a little too long, and your bird could be gone forever.

Your bird can indeed have a happy, healthy life without ever taking to the air, as long as you provide social interaction and lots of fun toys. Your bird's veterinarian or a reputable bird shop will be happy to show you how to trim wings, or do it for you if you'd rather not try it on your own.

Not all pet birds should have their flight feathers kept short, by the way. Finches and canaries are happier if not handled or allowed out of their cages, and their feathers should be left alone so they can fly for exercise inside their enclosures.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

'Pug-nosed' dogs can't take the heat

Dogs with pushed-in "pug-nosed" faces -- boxers, bulldogs, shih tzus and, of course, pugs -- are formally known as "brachycephalic" and come with some special health risks.

Perhaps primary among these is an intolerance to heat because these dogs don't pant as well as other dogs. A dog with a more conventional face and throat is able to pass air quickly over the tongue through panting. Saliva evaporates from the tongue as air is passed across, and the blood circulating through the tongue is cooled and circulated back to the rest of the body.

In a brachycephalic dog, the extra work required to move the same amount of air causes the airways to become inflamed and swollen. This can lead to a more severe obstruction, distress and further overheating. As a result, these dogs are at high risk for heat stroke and should never be put in a position of being stressed by heat.

These dogs may also present a higher risk during anesthesia, which is why it's important to discuss pre-anesthetic screening and risk-management with your veterinarian before any procedure requiring that your dog be anesthetized.

PET TIP

Make reservations for boarding now

If you're making holiday travel plans that don't include your pet, the time to call pet-sitters and boarding kennels is right now. Holiday reservations get snapped up early, and even now you might find many boarding kennels and pet-sitters fully booked for the Christmas-New Year's period.

Don't have a regular boarding kennel or pet-sitter? Ask your veterinarian or other pet-care professional for recommendations, or check with pet-loving friends, relatives, neighbors or co-workers for referrals.

Two trade organization can also help: The American Boarding Kennel Association (www.abka.com) for boarding, or Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) for pet-sitters. Ask for local references from any business you're considering, and check them out!

THE SCOOP

Tips for easing an allergy to cats

Allergies to cats are so prevalent and so severe that they've been suggested as one of the factors in the increase in asthma, especially since more cats than ever before spend their lives inside.

It's not cat fur that causes the problem, but an ingredient in cat saliva that gets deposited on fur when the animal grooms and that spreads with flakes of skin and secretions commonly called "dander."

Some people survive well enough with animals and allergies, but it does require some effort. Some things that help include:

-- Keeping animals clean. A weekly water bath (no soap needed) for cats has been shown to reduce levels of dander and may make living with a cat workable. It's best if a non-allergic member of the family handles the pet-grooming chores.

-- Keeping animals out of sleeping areas at all times. While it's hard to give up the hot-water-bottle pleasures of sleeping with a pet on the bed, your body needs a break from the stress of fighting off allergens.

-- Limiting exposure to other allergens. Keeping all your allergies under control can help your body handle the exposure to a pet.

Most important is to work with an allergist who's willing to work with you. The one whose advice starts and ends with "your cat needs a new home" probably isn't the one to choose.

That attitude used to be more prevalent, but nowadays more allergists are aware of (even if they disagree with) the strong bond people have with their pets. One of these specialists can put together a treatment plan that -- along with a commitment to environmental management -- may make living with a cat possible for all but the worst of allergy sufferers.

BY THE NUMBERS

Just call it 'Howl-oween'

Image: dog costume (no credit)

Optional cutline: The majority of all dog-lovers think putting costumes on pets is OK.

According to a survey by the American Kennel Club, dog-lovers generally like the idea of dressing up their pets just for fun. Answers to the question: How do you feel about people who dress their dog up for Halloween?

-- Doesn't everyone? 10 percent

-- The little costumes are so adorable, but it's too much work for me 15

-- I think it's cute, but my dog hates wearing any clothing 34

-- I can't imagine why you'd want to humiliate your dog like that 37

-- Don't know 4

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON THE WEB

Advancing idea of 'no kill'

The Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in southern Utah is an impressive operation, caring for hundreds of animals -- many them unadoptable -- on a beautiful property near some of the nation's most stunning national parks. (More than 20,000 people visit Best Friends every year, many of them spending their vacation volunteering at the sanctuary.)

The influence of Best Friends extends well beyond the boundaries of the sanctuary, however, as the group seeks to advance its "no kill" policy for unwanted pets. The Best Friends Web site (www.bestfriends.org) reflects the organization's larger mission.

The site offers articles on animal-related news, useful information for rescuers and potential adopters, updates on residents of the sanctuary and much more. Beautifully designed, well-organized and quick to load, the Best Friends Web site will keep any animal-lover happily browsing and deserves a bookmark for frequent returns.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Here's a rule to remember when it comes to dealing with feline aggression: Never, ever hit your cat.

While it may make you feel better -- at least in the short run -- a smack won't help you change a cat who appears to delight in sinking teeth and claws into you at seemingly unpredictable moments.

Fear and pain can cause a cat to lash out. The best way to deal with a scared cat is to let him be, while a sick cat surely needs a veterinarian. But most times what we see as "meanness" in a cat is just part of being a cat. You can change this behavior, but only if you understand what's behind it and react properly. Here's what makes cats go crazy and how to correct the problems:

-- Overstimulation. You're petting your cat, and suddenly he grabs you with his claws and teeth. Not a full-powered attack, but you still have those sharp tips around your hand. What to do? In the short run, freeze. Don't struggle or fight back, or you may trigger a real bite. Sometimes smacking your other hand hard against a hard surface -- a table top, for example -- may startle your cat into breaking off the attack. If you stay still, however, he will usually calm down and release you.

That's the solution if you've gotten to the attack stage. The better option is to be familiar with your cat and his body language and stop petting before he becomes overstimulated. Cat lovers often think such attacks come without warning, but they've missed the warning signs of a cat who has simply had enough. The tail is the key. If your cat starts twitching his tail in a jerky fashion, it's time to stop petting.

-- Play aggression. Sure, it hurts all the same, but the cat who pounces on your feet and then careens off the wall isn't trying to hurt you -- he's playing. Instead of punishing your cat, redirect his energy. Increase your play sessions with your cat with an appropriate toy, such as a cat fishing pole or toy on a string, to help your cat burn off his excess energy before you try for a quiet petting session.

No matter what, never let your cat view you as a plaything, not even when he's an adorable kitten. Wrestling bare-handed with your cat or kitten is a no-no, because you're setting up a bad precedent. A stuffed sock is a great substitute for a human hand when it comes to playthings -- let your cat bite, claw and bunny-kick to his heart's content.

What if he persists in seeing you as a plaything? As with an overstimulated cat, stop the behavior by freezing. Don't give him a reason to continue the attack. You can also inform him that attacks on you are not permitted by letting him have it with a shot of water from a spray bottle.

-- Redirected aggression. Your cat sees another cat, an intruder, outside your living-room window. He becomes enraged. You walk by, and he nails you. What gives? You were just the victim of redirected aggression.

This one's tough to fix. Try to discourage strange cats in your yard. Thump on the window, turn on the sprinklers, or put an air horn out the door and give them a blast. If you can't keep the intruders out, block your cat's access to the window through which he sees the other cats. And again, be aware of your cat's body language. A cat who's looking for trouble is one who's best avoided.

With all feline aggression, the trick is to eliminate the triggers and work on your cat's tolerance levels. If you're patient and consistent, your cat will improve over time.

SIDEBAR

Heavy petting, feline style

While a cat who's angry or afraid should not be handled (and an injured cat should be handled with extreme care and caution), other bite-happy cats simply need to be petted in a way that avoids overstimulating them.

For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are greatly outnumbered by the cats who'll quickly tire of a tummy rub and will seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Always watch the tail. Miss the tail-twitching of a cat who's getting overstimulated, and you have only yourself to blame if you suddenly find yourself in your cat's unfriendly embrace.

Q&A

No need to panic over 'canine flu'

Q: We take our border collie mix to the dog park two to four times a week, where Matty loves to play. But now we're worried about this new killer canine flu that has been all over the news, and we wonder if we should keep her home. She'd go insane without her outings, but we're worried about her catching something from another dog. Can you tell us if we're overreacting? -- S.N., via e-mail

A: You're overreacting. Dr. Cynda Crawford, the veterinarian at the University of Florida who is considered the leading expert on this virus, has said the new flu won't keep her from taking her dogs where she always does, including grooming salons, boarding kennels and dog parks.

If she's not keeping her dogs home, you shouldn't either.

The new viral strain came from horses and has killed a relatively small number of dogs. (It's not considered a risk to humans, by the way.) Symptoms of the new virus are similar to those of "kennel cough" -- coughing and nasal discharge -- although the new flu is more infectious and potentially more serious. It's scary stuff, but the fact is that the overwhelming majority of dogs exposed to the disease will have a mild, short-term illness. Even those dogs with a severe case of the disease will most likely survive with veterinary care. (It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway: Any dog who starts coughing should not be exposed to other dogs and should be seen by a veterinarian right away.)

You didn't say how old your dog was or what kind of shape she's in. I'm guessing since she's a dog-park regular, she's a fit and healthy adult dog, which is exactly the category of pet who has the lowest risk of serious illness or death from this virus, even if exposed.

Puppies younger than 4 months have always needed to be protected from infectious disease, because these youngsters don't yet have a fully functioning immune system. Dogs enfeebled by old age or illness should also be protected from exposure to dogs of unknown health status.

But healthy adult dogs? Grab your leash and go have fun. After all, you don't stay home yourself because you're worried about catching the flu, do you? Life is too short to stay home in fear, especially when there are tennis balls to chase.

Q: My little cockatiel is 18 years old. I got him when I was 12 years old, and now I'm a married woman with two young children. Sammy the cockatiel is still going strong. Do you think he's in contention for some kind of record? I didn't think they lived this long. -- A.F., via e-mail

A: Sammy has had a good long life, but he's not quite setting records yet. If well cared for, cockatiels routinely live into their late teens and early 20s. It's not unheard of for a cockatiel to hit the big 3-0, either.

Of course, a lot of cockatiels don't make it that long, mostly because of improper care. Like all parrots, cockatiels need a varied diet, with plenty of wholesome "people foods" in the mix, such as fresh fruits and vegetables, whole-grain foods such as breads and pastas, and even such things as scrambled eggs and cottage cheese. (Seeds should be a treat, not a dietary mainstay.)

Other contributors to longevity include a clean, properly sized cage, toys to keep mind and body exercised and, of course, social interaction. A working relationship with an avian veterinarian is also recommended, to help spot and treat health problems before they become serious.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Tips for helping a finicky feline

Although some cats have never met a dish of food they didn't love, others are very picky about what they eat. Feeding a wide variety of flavors and brands can help keep cats from fixating on one particular food. Warming canned food to just about room temperature can also tempt a finicky feline.

Be aware, however, that your cat may not be as finicky as you think. If you leave dry food down all the time, he may be nibbling constantly throughout the day and thus never eating very much in any one observed sitting. The amount of food any one cat in a multicat household eats can be especially difficult to determine if food is always available.

Cats with access to the outdoors may additionally be mooching off the neighbors, or supplementing the rations you give him by hunting.

Finickiness is not a reason for concern as long as your cat's not losing weight. A half-pound or even a pound gradually up or down is no big deal, but more than that and you need to call your veterinarian. Weight loss is often one of the first indications that something is wrong with your cat.

PET TIP

Birds can learn to go on command

With patience and consistency, many birds can be taught to relieve themselves on command, in a place of your choosing. Young birds seem to pick up the skill most quickly and reliably, but you can sometimes teach an older bird new tricks, too.

Start by observing your bird, noting the times of day he's most likely to relieve himself and the body language he uses just before, such as wagging his tail-feathers. Pick your desired command -- "go potty" or "hurry up" will do, as will anything, just as long as you're consistent.

When you see your bird getting ready to go or you know it's the usual time he does (such as first thing in the morning), ask him onto your hand and hold him over a wastebasket, newspaper or whatever "poop zone" you've chosen (some people use paper plates). Give your potty command and praise him when he obeys -- even though the response is just a coincidence at first, of course. Praise for correct behavior.

The larger the bird, the longer the time he can "hold it." Budgies and cockatiels aren't good for much more than 15 to 20 minutes, tops, while large parrots can wait for several hours or more.

For those birds who are resistant to training, you can find "birdy diapers" to catch the mess. One such product is the Flight Suit, a body-hugging harness with an absorbent liner. The product ($20 to $28) can be purchased from pet-supply retailers or from the manufacturer, Avian Fashions (www.birddiaper.com; 1-888-412-7667).

BREED TYPE

Smart little Sheltie an active companion

Leveraging the lasting appeal of "Lassie," the Shetland sheepdog, or Sheltie, offers movie-star looks in a small package. No matter that fanciers of this breed insist the term "miniature collie" is not appropriate -- it's still how many will identify the smart little herding dog.

In fact, the Sheltie is indeed his own breed, a sweet-natured, gentle and agile little dog who delights in learning and loves to show off. The breed is characteristically energetic, engaged and enthusiastic about every task. Shelties can always be found in the top ranks of canine obedience and agility competitions.

The breed comes in three basic color patterns. Sable, the classic "Lassie" pattern, is by far the most popular, but the Sheltie also comes in tri-color (black overcoat, white ruff and tan highlights) and in blue merle (mottled black-gray overcoat, white ruff and tan highlights).

The Sheltie's double coat is soft and fuzzy at the skin, covered by protective layer of long, thick hair. Shedding is no small matter with this dog, and people who don't like picking hair off their clothes will not like this breed. Regular grooming is a must to prevent matting.

A well-bred and properly socialized Sheltie will typically not enjoy strangers, but should tolerate them well enough. Poorly bred Shelties can be shy or fearful, and all Shelties tend to be yappy. As with any breed, congenital health issues are a serious problem that can best be minimized by dealing with a reputable breeder who has all breeding dogs certified free of hereditary health problems.

More information on the breed can be found on the Web site of the American Shetland Sheepdog Association (www.assa.org).

BY THE NUMBERS

Rabbits prove popular

Image: Rabbit (no credit)

Optional cutline: Rabbits are the most popular small mammal pet.

When it comes to small mammals as pets, rabbits are the most popular, followed by hamsters and guinea pigs. All small mammals are common children's pets, but most have considerable followings among adults as well. Among those households with small mammals as pets, here's how the animals ranked in 2004 popularity (more than one answer allowed):

Rabbit 43 percent

Hamster 36 percent

Guinea pig 20 percent

Mouse/rat 8 percent

Ferret 7 percent

Gerbil 5 percent

Chinchilla 4 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON THE WEB

Lab site offers necessary advice

At the age of 5, the Labrador retriever is about as calm, sensible and good-natured a canine companion as can be imagined. At the age of 10 months (12 months, 14 months, 16 months, etc.) the Labrador retriever can be a high-energy ball of adolescent mayhem. This normal adolescent period can be as hard on the dogs as it is on the owners -- it's no coincidence that young Lab and Lab mixes are among the most commonly found dogs in shelters nationwide.

Exercise and training for your dog, patience and a sense of humor for you are absolutely necessary to get a Labrador from adorable puppyhood through adolescence to calm adulthood. A constant supply of safe, sturdy chew toys is also recommended.

The Web site of the Labrador Retriever Club (www.thelabradorclub.com), the American Kennel Club's parent organization for the breed, offers plenty of information on choosing and caring for this popular breed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is or he isn't.

Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have really is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first for a complete checkup.

If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him a command for going (I use "hurry up" with my dogs). Then praise him for doing right, so he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find.

If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

SIDEBAR

Small dogs, big problems

A St. Bernard who messes indoors is a much bigger problem than a Chihuahua who does the same, which is why some people just never get serious enough when it comes to house-training a tiny dog.

Consistency and persistence are important, but so is understanding the special challenges that sometimes make little dogs difficult to house-train, even with the best of intentions. Some additional tips for the little guys include:

-- Provide more frequent potty breaks. Little dogs haven't as much "capacity" as big dogs do and may need to be taken out more often.

-- Make the area where you want your dog to relieve himself inviting, comfortable and safe. Look at the world from the point of view of a 10-pound dog. What may seem like a lawn that needs mowing to you may look like an impenetrable jungle to a little dog. A big yard, or one with even a small amount of snow, can likewise make a tiny dog feel insecure about his surroundings, and no one likes to feel insecure at such times! Consider an indoor potty area if you can't provide an appropriate outdoor one. A handful of companies now make "litter boxes" for small dogs.

-- Shrink the territory indoors. Your home may seem so big to a little dog that he thinks the next room is the next county and is OK to use as a potty. Keep tabs on your little dog during house-training, and don't give him the run of the house.

Q&A

Dog park not for biting hound

Q: I take offense at your stand that people with dogs who get into fights shouldn't take them into dog parks. I have every right to be there with my dog, especially since I try to go when no other dogs are there. My dog doesn't always fight -- it's only when some other dog agitates him. He's completely reliable with people, by the way. -- E.L., via e-mail

A: Some people do take their dog-aggressive animals into off-leash parks, but only after slipping a comfortable box muzzle on the animal to prevent biting. This might be a responsible solution for your pet, but of course it doesn't guarantee your dog won't get hurt if a fight breaks out.

The better option is to find alternate ways to exercise your pet. Whether you like to admit it or not, taking your problem dog to an off-leash park is risky. The potential for injury -- human and canine alike -- is just too high.

Yes, dog parks are public facilities, but they do need to operate with some basic rules and understandings. Taking dogs there who are known to fight with others just doesn't make sense.

Ending awful habit

Q: We adopted a shelter dog and added her to our household, which contains two middle-age cats (sisters). The transition has gone much better than we expected. The dog doesn't chase the cats, and while the cats aren't thrilled about the dog, they grudgingly accept her. We have one problem, however, that has us both frustrated and disgusted: The dog likes to eat what the cats leave in the litter box. We've checked this out on the Internet, so we know it's pretty common. Do you have an answer for it? -- J.S., via e-mail

A: I get this question at least once a week -- and usually a lot more often. Hard as it is to believe, feline feces are so attractive to many dogs that in most cases the only "cure" for this disgusting habit is restricting the dog's access. Suggestions include:

-- Covered litter boxes. You can find litter boxes with lids at almost any pet-supply store, and this might fix the problem. Cats who have asthma shouldn't use them, some cats won't use them, and some dogs are strong enough (or small enough) to get to the box anyway. But for some households, a covered box will solve the problem.

-- Change the litter box location. Make any change slowly, so as not to discourage litter box use by your cats. But it doesn't hurt to experiment with such things as moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach.

-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig the door to the room with the litter box so it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. Another possibility is to cut a cat-sized hole through the door to the litter box room. For a small dog able to fit through any opening a cat can, a baby gate is an alternative: The cat can jump over, but the dog cannot. You might also be able to put the box in an unused bathtub, if your dog is small enough.

-- Experiment with what works, and realize punishment doesn't work when the reward is as wonderful (to your dog) as the litter box contents. This is one case in which training the people in the house to make adjustments works much better than trying to train the dog.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Don't overlook the little budgie

The birds commonly known as parakeets are more properly called budgerigars, or just plain budgies. That's because although all budgies are parakeets, not all parakeets are budgies. Many other kinds of parakeets are available as pets, including the Quaker, grey-cheeked, ring-necked and canary-winged.

Budgies are by far the most popular parakeets and perhaps the most taken for granted. Because of their small price tag and easy availability, they are often treated as a throw-away bird -- easily purchased, easily disposed of, easily replaced. This attitude keeps people from valuing these birds for their affectionate personalities and appreciating them as lovely little pets. If worked with, some budgies even become very good talkers, albeit with tiny little voices.

Budgies are commonly found in two varieties, differentiated by body type: the narrow American and the huskier English. The blue and green colors many people remember from their first childhood budgies are still available, but so are a wide range of other colors and markings.

ON THE WEB

Sometimes, silly is just the ticket

With so much sadness in the news lately, I was delighted to be pointed by friends to a couple of pet Web sites that exist just to celebrate the silly. Because ... well, just because we all need to be silly sometimes.

The first is Cats in Sinks (catsinsinks.com). The title pretty much sums it up: image after image (more than 2000 at this writing) of cats in sinks. If nothing else, it serves as reassurance that if your own cat enjoys taking a nap in the sink (the round bathroom kind seems to be universally preferred), there's nothing at all abnormal about it. Or at least, nothing uncommon.

While many cats choose to sleep in sinks, there's nothing voluntary about a dog being in a bee costume. If a dog's in any kind of costume at all, it's because some human thought it would be cute. Fortunately, dogs are generally gracious about tolerating our silliness.

Bee Dogs (beedogs.com) is relatively new and doesn't have quite as many images as Cats in Sinks. But the potential is surely there, especially with Halloween at hand.

PET TIP

For safety's sake: Keeping cats indoors

The best time to convert a free-roaming cat to life indoors is when you move into a new home. A cat can't miss territory he has never explored, after all. But even if you're not planning to move, you can still convert your cat.

The change requires resolve on your part and a determination to provide your cat with everything he needs to be happy indoors -- good food and fresh water, a clean litter box, a scratching post, toys and, most important, your companionship.

Does such a change come easily? Probably not, experts say.

Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting him off from the outdoors is the day you're going to start hearing about it -- lots. Your cat will be astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he's positively outraged at your failure to respond: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."

Don't give in, no matter what. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you've taught your cat a lesson you'd rather he didn't know: "All I need to do is put up a fuss, and I get what I want." If you try to keep him inside again, he's going to be even more obnoxious about getting out.

Be patient but firm. Dissuade him from the door with a shot from a spray bottle, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post. If you do not open the door, the noisy demands will decrease and eventually end.

Within a couple of weeks, your cat will start to settle into his new routines, and you'll no longer need to worry about the dangers he faces outdoors.

PET Rx

Most pets do better without sedation

Few beliefs are as widely spread and commonly held as the one that incorrectly suggests pets be tranquilized for an airline flight. That might be because many of us would prefer spending our time in the air asleep, and we figure out pets would prefer the same. Flying is stressful, and it stands to reason that tranquilizers take the edge off a scary experience.

But the fact is that tranquilizers increase the risk of flying for pets. That's because the medication impairs the efficient functioning of a body, at a time when such efficiency can be essential to keeping an animal alive.

Tranquilizers are not routinely recommended for most flight-bound pets. If you think your animal is the exception, discuss the issue with your veterinarian.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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