Here's a rule to remember when it comes to dealing with feline aggression: Never, ever hit your cat.

While it may make you feel better -- at least in the short run -- a smack won't help you change a cat who appears to delight in sinking teeth and claws into you at seemingly unpredictable moments.

Fear and pain can cause a cat to lash out. The best way to deal with a scared cat is to let him be, while a sick cat surely needs a veterinarian. But most times what we see as "meanness" in a cat is just part of being a cat. You can change this behavior, but only if you understand what's behind it and react properly. Here's what makes cats go crazy and how to correct the problems:

-- Overstimulation. You're petting your cat, and suddenly he grabs you with his claws and teeth. Not a full-powered attack, but you still have those sharp tips around your hand. What to do? In the short run, freeze. Don't struggle or fight back, or you may trigger a real bite. Sometimes smacking your other hand hard against a hard surface -- a table top, for example -- may startle your cat into breaking off the attack. If you stay still, however, he will usually calm down and release you.

That's the solution if you've gotten to the attack stage. The better option is to be familiar with your cat and his body language and stop petting before he becomes overstimulated. Cat lovers often think such attacks come without warning, but they've missed the warning signs of a cat who has simply had enough. The tail is the key. If your cat starts twitching his tail in a jerky fashion, it's time to stop petting.

-- Play aggression. Sure, it hurts all the same, but the cat who pounces on your feet and then careens off the wall isn't trying to hurt you -- he's playing. Instead of punishing your cat, redirect his energy. Increase your play sessions with your cat with an appropriate toy, such as a cat fishing pole or toy on a string, to help your cat burn off his excess energy before you try for a quiet petting session.

No matter what, never let your cat view you as a plaything, not even when he's an adorable kitten. Wrestling bare-handed with your cat or kitten is a no-no, because you're setting up a bad precedent. A stuffed sock is a great substitute for a human hand when it comes to playthings -- let your cat bite, claw and bunny-kick to his heart's content.

What if he persists in seeing you as a plaything? As with an overstimulated cat, stop the behavior by freezing. Don't give him a reason to continue the attack. You can also inform him that attacks on you are not permitted by letting him have it with a shot of water from a spray bottle.

-- Redirected aggression. Your cat sees another cat, an intruder, outside your living-room window. He becomes enraged. You walk by, and he nails you. What gives? You were just the victim of redirected aggression.

This one's tough to fix. Try to discourage strange cats in your yard. Thump on the window, turn on the sprinklers, or put an air horn out the door and give them a blast. If you can't keep the intruders out, block your cat's access to the window through which he sees the other cats. And again, be aware of your cat's body language. A cat who's looking for trouble is one who's best avoided.

With all feline aggression, the trick is to eliminate the triggers and work on your cat's tolerance levels. If you're patient and consistent, your cat will improve over time.

SIDEBAR

Heavy petting, feline style

While a cat who's angry or afraid should not be handled (and an injured cat should be handled with extreme care and caution), other bite-happy cats simply need to be petted in a way that avoids overstimulating them.

For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are greatly outnumbered by the cats who'll quickly tire of a tummy rub and will seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Always watch the tail. Miss the tail-twitching of a cat who's getting overstimulated, and you have only yourself to blame if you suddenly find yourself in your cat's unfriendly embrace.

Q&A

No need to panic over 'canine flu'

Q: We take our border collie mix to the dog park two to four times a week, where Matty loves to play. But now we're worried about this new killer canine flu that has been all over the news, and we wonder if we should keep her home. She'd go insane without her outings, but we're worried about her catching something from another dog. Can you tell us if we're overreacting? -- S.N., via e-mail

A: You're overreacting. Dr. Cynda Crawford, the veterinarian at the University of Florida who is considered the leading expert on this virus, has said the new flu won't keep her from taking her dogs where she always does, including grooming salons, boarding kennels and dog parks.

If she's not keeping her dogs home, you shouldn't either.

The new viral strain came from horses and has killed a relatively small number of dogs. (It's not considered a risk to humans, by the way.) Symptoms of the new virus are similar to those of "kennel cough" -- coughing and nasal discharge -- although the new flu is more infectious and potentially more serious. It's scary stuff, but the fact is that the overwhelming majority of dogs exposed to the disease will have a mild, short-term illness. Even those dogs with a severe case of the disease will most likely survive with veterinary care. (It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway: Any dog who starts coughing should not be exposed to other dogs and should be seen by a veterinarian right away.)

You didn't say how old your dog was or what kind of shape she's in. I'm guessing since she's a dog-park regular, she's a fit and healthy adult dog, which is exactly the category of pet who has the lowest risk of serious illness or death from this virus, even if exposed.

Puppies younger than 4 months have always needed to be protected from infectious disease, because these youngsters don't yet have a fully functioning immune system. Dogs enfeebled by old age or illness should also be protected from exposure to dogs of unknown health status.

But healthy adult dogs? Grab your leash and go have fun. After all, you don't stay home yourself because you're worried about catching the flu, do you? Life is too short to stay home in fear, especially when there are tennis balls to chase.

Q: My little cockatiel is 18 years old. I got him when I was 12 years old, and now I'm a married woman with two young children. Sammy the cockatiel is still going strong. Do you think he's in contention for some kind of record? I didn't think they lived this long. -- A.F., via e-mail

A: Sammy has had a good long life, but he's not quite setting records yet. If well cared for, cockatiels routinely live into their late teens and early 20s. It's not unheard of for a cockatiel to hit the big 3-0, either.

Of course, a lot of cockatiels don't make it that long, mostly because of improper care. Like all parrots, cockatiels need a varied diet, with plenty of wholesome "people foods" in the mix, such as fresh fruits and vegetables, whole-grain foods such as breads and pastas, and even such things as scrambled eggs and cottage cheese. (Seeds should be a treat, not a dietary mainstay.)

Other contributors to longevity include a clean, properly sized cage, toys to keep mind and body exercised and, of course, social interaction. A working relationship with an avian veterinarian is also recommended, to help spot and treat health problems before they become serious.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Tips for helping a finicky feline

Although some cats have never met a dish of food they didn't love, others are very picky about what they eat. Feeding a wide variety of flavors and brands can help keep cats from fixating on one particular food. Warming canned food to just about room temperature can also tempt a finicky feline.

Be aware, however, that your cat may not be as finicky as you think. If you leave dry food down all the time, he may be nibbling constantly throughout the day and thus never eating very much in any one observed sitting. The amount of food any one cat in a multicat household eats can be especially difficult to determine if food is always available.

Cats with access to the outdoors may additionally be mooching off the neighbors, or supplementing the rations you give him by hunting.

Finickiness is not a reason for concern as long as your cat's not losing weight. A half-pound or even a pound gradually up or down is no big deal, but more than that and you need to call your veterinarian. Weight loss is often one of the first indications that something is wrong with your cat.

PET TIP

Birds can learn to go on command

With patience and consistency, many birds can be taught to relieve themselves on command, in a place of your choosing. Young birds seem to pick up the skill most quickly and reliably, but you can sometimes teach an older bird new tricks, too.

Start by observing your bird, noting the times of day he's most likely to relieve himself and the body language he uses just before, such as wagging his tail-feathers. Pick your desired command -- "go potty" or "hurry up" will do, as will anything, just as long as you're consistent.

When you see your bird getting ready to go or you know it's the usual time he does (such as first thing in the morning), ask him onto your hand and hold him over a wastebasket, newspaper or whatever "poop zone" you've chosen (some people use paper plates). Give your potty command and praise him when he obeys -- even though the response is just a coincidence at first, of course. Praise for correct behavior.

The larger the bird, the longer the time he can "hold it." Budgies and cockatiels aren't good for much more than 15 to 20 minutes, tops, while large parrots can wait for several hours or more.

For those birds who are resistant to training, you can find "birdy diapers" to catch the mess. One such product is the Flight Suit, a body-hugging harness with an absorbent liner. The product ($20 to $28) can be purchased from pet-supply retailers or from the manufacturer, Avian Fashions (www.birddiaper.com; 1-888-412-7667).

BREED TYPE

Smart little Sheltie an active companion

Leveraging the lasting appeal of "Lassie," the Shetland sheepdog, or Sheltie, offers movie-star looks in a small package. No matter that fanciers of this breed insist the term "miniature collie" is not appropriate -- it's still how many will identify the smart little herding dog.

In fact, the Sheltie is indeed his own breed, a sweet-natured, gentle and agile little dog who delights in learning and loves to show off. The breed is characteristically energetic, engaged and enthusiastic about every task. Shelties can always be found in the top ranks of canine obedience and agility competitions.

The breed comes in three basic color patterns. Sable, the classic "Lassie" pattern, is by far the most popular, but the Sheltie also comes in tri-color (black overcoat, white ruff and tan highlights) and in blue merle (mottled black-gray overcoat, white ruff and tan highlights).

The Sheltie's double coat is soft and fuzzy at the skin, covered by protective layer of long, thick hair. Shedding is no small matter with this dog, and people who don't like picking hair off their clothes will not like this breed. Regular grooming is a must to prevent matting.

A well-bred and properly socialized Sheltie will typically not enjoy strangers, but should tolerate them well enough. Poorly bred Shelties can be shy or fearful, and all Shelties tend to be yappy. As with any breed, congenital health issues are a serious problem that can best be minimized by dealing with a reputable breeder who has all breeding dogs certified free of hereditary health problems.

More information on the breed can be found on the Web site of the American Shetland Sheepdog Association (www.assa.org).

BY THE NUMBERS

Rabbits prove popular

Image: Rabbit (no credit)

Optional cutline: Rabbits are the most popular small mammal pet.

When it comes to small mammals as pets, rabbits are the most popular, followed by hamsters and guinea pigs. All small mammals are common children's pets, but most have considerable followings among adults as well. Among those households with small mammals as pets, here's how the animals ranked in 2004 popularity (more than one answer allowed):

Rabbit 43 percent

Hamster 36 percent

Guinea pig 20 percent

Mouse/rat 8 percent

Ferret 7 percent

Gerbil 5 percent

Chinchilla 4 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON THE WEB

Lab site offers necessary advice

At the age of 5, the Labrador retriever is about as calm, sensible and good-natured a canine companion as can be imagined. At the age of 10 months (12 months, 14 months, 16 months, etc.) the Labrador retriever can be a high-energy ball of adolescent mayhem. This normal adolescent period can be as hard on the dogs as it is on the owners -- it's no coincidence that young Lab and Lab mixes are among the most commonly found dogs in shelters nationwide.

Exercise and training for your dog, patience and a sense of humor for you are absolutely necessary to get a Labrador from adorable puppyhood through adolescence to calm adulthood. A constant supply of safe, sturdy chew toys is also recommended.

The Web site of the Labrador Retriever Club (www.thelabradorclub.com), the American Kennel Club's parent organization for the breed, offers plenty of information on choosing and caring for this popular breed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is or he isn't.

Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have really is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first for a complete checkup.

If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him a command for going (I use "hurry up" with my dogs). Then praise him for doing right, so he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find.

If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

SIDEBAR

Small dogs, big problems

A St. Bernard who messes indoors is a much bigger problem than a Chihuahua who does the same, which is why some people just never get serious enough when it comes to house-training a tiny dog.

Consistency and persistence are important, but so is understanding the special challenges that sometimes make little dogs difficult to house-train, even with the best of intentions. Some additional tips for the little guys include:

-- Provide more frequent potty breaks. Little dogs haven't as much "capacity" as big dogs do and may need to be taken out more often.

-- Make the area where you want your dog to relieve himself inviting, comfortable and safe. Look at the world from the point of view of a 10-pound dog. What may seem like a lawn that needs mowing to you may look like an impenetrable jungle to a little dog. A big yard, or one with even a small amount of snow, can likewise make a tiny dog feel insecure about his surroundings, and no one likes to feel insecure at such times! Consider an indoor potty area if you can't provide an appropriate outdoor one. A handful of companies now make "litter boxes" for small dogs.

-- Shrink the territory indoors. Your home may seem so big to a little dog that he thinks the next room is the next county and is OK to use as a potty. Keep tabs on your little dog during house-training, and don't give him the run of the house.

Q&A

Dog park not for biting hound

Q: I take offense at your stand that people with dogs who get into fights shouldn't take them into dog parks. I have every right to be there with my dog, especially since I try to go when no other dogs are there. My dog doesn't always fight -- it's only when some other dog agitates him. He's completely reliable with people, by the way. -- E.L., via e-mail

A: Some people do take their dog-aggressive animals into off-leash parks, but only after slipping a comfortable box muzzle on the animal to prevent biting. This might be a responsible solution for your pet, but of course it doesn't guarantee your dog won't get hurt if a fight breaks out.

The better option is to find alternate ways to exercise your pet. Whether you like to admit it or not, taking your problem dog to an off-leash park is risky. The potential for injury -- human and canine alike -- is just too high.

Yes, dog parks are public facilities, but they do need to operate with some basic rules and understandings. Taking dogs there who are known to fight with others just doesn't make sense.

Ending awful habit

Q: We adopted a shelter dog and added her to our household, which contains two middle-age cats (sisters). The transition has gone much better than we expected. The dog doesn't chase the cats, and while the cats aren't thrilled about the dog, they grudgingly accept her. We have one problem, however, that has us both frustrated and disgusted: The dog likes to eat what the cats leave in the litter box. We've checked this out on the Internet, so we know it's pretty common. Do you have an answer for it? -- J.S., via e-mail

A: I get this question at least once a week -- and usually a lot more often. Hard as it is to believe, feline feces are so attractive to many dogs that in most cases the only "cure" for this disgusting habit is restricting the dog's access. Suggestions include:

-- Covered litter boxes. You can find litter boxes with lids at almost any pet-supply store, and this might fix the problem. Cats who have asthma shouldn't use them, some cats won't use them, and some dogs are strong enough (or small enough) to get to the box anyway. But for some households, a covered box will solve the problem.

-- Change the litter box location. Make any change slowly, so as not to discourage litter box use by your cats. But it doesn't hurt to experiment with such things as moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach.

-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig the door to the room with the litter box so it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. Another possibility is to cut a cat-sized hole through the door to the litter box room. For a small dog able to fit through any opening a cat can, a baby gate is an alternative: The cat can jump over, but the dog cannot. You might also be able to put the box in an unused bathtub, if your dog is small enough.

-- Experiment with what works, and realize punishment doesn't work when the reward is as wonderful (to your dog) as the litter box contents. This is one case in which training the people in the house to make adjustments works much better than trying to train the dog.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Don't overlook the little budgie

The birds commonly known as parakeets are more properly called budgerigars, or just plain budgies. That's because although all budgies are parakeets, not all parakeets are budgies. Many other kinds of parakeets are available as pets, including the Quaker, grey-cheeked, ring-necked and canary-winged.

Budgies are by far the most popular parakeets and perhaps the most taken for granted. Because of their small price tag and easy availability, they are often treated as a throw-away bird -- easily purchased, easily disposed of, easily replaced. This attitude keeps people from valuing these birds for their affectionate personalities and appreciating them as lovely little pets. If worked with, some budgies even become very good talkers, albeit with tiny little voices.

Budgies are commonly found in two varieties, differentiated by body type: the narrow American and the huskier English. The blue and green colors many people remember from their first childhood budgies are still available, but so are a wide range of other colors and markings.

ON THE WEB

Sometimes, silly is just the ticket

With so much sadness in the news lately, I was delighted to be pointed by friends to a couple of pet Web sites that exist just to celebrate the silly. Because ... well, just because we all need to be silly sometimes.

The first is Cats in Sinks (catsinsinks.com). The title pretty much sums it up: image after image (more than 2000 at this writing) of cats in sinks. If nothing else, it serves as reassurance that if your own cat enjoys taking a nap in the sink (the round bathroom kind seems to be universally preferred), there's nothing at all abnormal about it. Or at least, nothing uncommon.

While many cats choose to sleep in sinks, there's nothing voluntary about a dog being in a bee costume. If a dog's in any kind of costume at all, it's because some human thought it would be cute. Fortunately, dogs are generally gracious about tolerating our silliness.

Bee Dogs (beedogs.com) is relatively new and doesn't have quite as many images as Cats in Sinks. But the potential is surely there, especially with Halloween at hand.

PET TIP

For safety's sake: Keeping cats indoors

The best time to convert a free-roaming cat to life indoors is when you move into a new home. A cat can't miss territory he has never explored, after all. But even if you're not planning to move, you can still convert your cat.

The change requires resolve on your part and a determination to provide your cat with everything he needs to be happy indoors -- good food and fresh water, a clean litter box, a scratching post, toys and, most important, your companionship.

Does such a change come easily? Probably not, experts say.

Cats are highly territorial, and the day you reduce your cat's territory by cutting him off from the outdoors is the day you're going to start hearing about it -- lots. Your cat will be astonished at your stupidity at first: "Hey, you! I can't believe you're so dumb that you forgot how to open the door!" Later, he's positively outraged at your failure to respond: "The door! The door! Pay attention! I want something."

Don't give in, no matter what. If you allow the insistent meows and pointed stares to wear you down to the point of opening the door, you've taught your cat a lesson you'd rather he didn't know: "All I need to do is put up a fuss, and I get what I want." If you try to keep him inside again, he's going to be even more obnoxious about getting out.

Be patient but firm. Dissuade him from the door with a shot from a spray bottle, and keep him occupied with games and attention. If he likes catnip, get a fresh supply to rub on his toys and scratching post. If you do not open the door, the noisy demands will decrease and eventually end.

Within a couple of weeks, your cat will start to settle into his new routines, and you'll no longer need to worry about the dangers he faces outdoors.

PET Rx

Most pets do better without sedation

Few beliefs are as widely spread and commonly held as the one that incorrectly suggests pets be tranquilized for an airline flight. That might be because many of us would prefer spending our time in the air asleep, and we figure out pets would prefer the same. Flying is stressful, and it stands to reason that tranquilizers take the edge off a scary experience.

But the fact is that tranquilizers increase the risk of flying for pets. That's because the medication impairs the efficient functioning of a body, at a time when such efficiency can be essential to keeping an animal alive.

Tranquilizers are not routinely recommended for most flight-bound pets. If you think your animal is the exception, discuss the issue with your veterinarian.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The question of whether the needs of animals are just as important as those of people during times of disaster is a non-starter for me. The truth is, there aren't many people who, given the choice of pulling an infant or a kitten out of raging floodwaters, wouldn't wish the kitten good luck in the next life while reaching for the baby.

The problem with the "animals vs. people" debate heard after any sort of disaster is that it misses the point. For all the many reasons why animals need to be taken care of as part of disaster planning and rescue operations, perhaps the most compelling is this one:

If you don't plan for pets, people will die.

That's because in disaster after disaster it has been proven that the strength of the human-animal bond is such that if animals have to be left behind, there are plenty of people who will stay and fight for their pets' survival along with their own.

I'm one of those people. My animals are family, and I would not abandon them to an uncertain fate. While doing so apparently makes sense to some -- the tales from hurricane country of already-neglected dogs drowning on their backyard chains are so common now as to be mind-numbing -- I could not live with myself knowing I'd abandoned an animal who had done nothing wrong but trust that I'd take care of him.

It's not that I'm planning to die with my animals -- far from it.

I've lived in a house 100 yards from the Gulf of Mexico and in other areas at risk for every possible calamity, from wildfires to earthquakes to floods. And in every place I've lived I've been prepared to leave on short notice, and to take my pets with me.

But the fact remains that any crisis will catch many people unprepared and in need, and we need to do what it takes to help. Helping means changing long-standing disaster-relief policies to include pets so people will leave their homes when they need to.

The Red Cross cites aggression, allergies and fear of animals as reasons why its shelters do not accommodate pets. And it's true: These are valid reasons why animals shouldn't be accepted in all shelters, or thrown loose into any shelter already jammed with human evacuees. But anyone who says there aren't viable options is looking for an excuse, not a solution.

In fact, there are ways for people and their pets to be kept safe. Select shelters in any given area could be safely set up for people with pets, or shelters for people could be paired with adjacent ones for pets, the latter staffed by those with experience in handling stressed or frightened animals.

This is not new ground, and more change is coming. Several counties in Florida now have plans to have at least one shelter prepared to accept pets in a disaster. And the outcry over the handling of pets during Hurricane Katrina led to officials allowing people to bring their pets on evacuation buses leaving coastal Texas in advance of Hurricane Rita.

I hope the trend continues. Because when people return home to put their lives back together, they know that their homes will be empty without their pets in them.

Families need to stay together, no matter what.

SIDEBAR

Putting on the pressure

Changing disaster policies for people with pets is a matter of pressuring decision-makers in both the public-policy and charitable arenas.

At the federal level, pet-lovers can communicate to their elected representatives their support of the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act. The PETS Act will mandate that state and local officials include how they will accommodate households with pets or service animals when presenting disaster plans in search of federal funding. Pet-lovers have to be active as well on a more local level. Find out if your state and local disaster plans include pets, and if they don't, push to get them changed.

The Red Cross has so far been resolute in its insistence that pets have no place in its shelters. As previously mentioned here, a grassroots movement dubbed "The Snowball Effect" (www.veterinarypartner.com/snowball) -- after the little dog forcibly separated from his young owner during Hurricane Katrina -- is asking people to contact the Red Cross to ask both the national organization and its local chapters to re-evaluate this stand and to make plans to accommodate people with pets in select shelters.

Finally, don't forget to make sure your own family has a crisis plan that includes your pets.

Q&A

Mikey's family wants him back

Q. Our cat Mikey loved going down the street to our small-town deer lodge on the weekends when they would have their all-day outdoor barbecue. He would mingle until the owner would call me to pick him up, or he would meander home on his own.

Last January he never came home. I kept searching the Web site of our local shelter for new arrivals and finally there was Mikey. I e-mailed the director and informed her that Mikey had a family and a license that was always on him, but she said he had been brought in without his collar or tag.

I immediately requested they make a note that he was not to be adopted out. The director sent me an e-mail back giving me the day to come to pick Mikey up. I arrived on that date at approximately 6 p.m., and I was informed that Mikey had been adopted out that same day at 3 p.m. She'd said I could get there by 7 p.m.

The shelter will not give me any information on who adopted him. The director she says she has tried to contact the people three times. The first two times she got no response, and the third was their refusal to return Mikey to us. What can I do about this? -- K.H., via e-mail

A. Nine months later, I'm thinking not much. If you had immediately raised a big stink, perhaps engaged an attorney and talked to your local media back when Mikey was adopted out, you might have gotten somewhere, since you had an e-mail from the director of animal control for your town confirming that the agency was aware Mikey belonged to someone and giving you a date and time for picking him up. Now, I'm not sure even that will help you, since many months have passed.

I cannot tell you how many times people have written to me in similar situations. They've checked in with the local shelter after an animal has gone missing only to discover their pet has either been adopted out or euthanized after the legally mandated hold period for strays has run its course. In many such cases, the shelter had played it by the book, and what happened to the animal was completely within the law.

There's no hope for an animal who has been put down, of course, but sometimes the people who adopt in such circumstances are willing to return the pet to the original family. It's the decent thing to do, certainly, but it's much easier on the new family if the request comes in early, before they fall in love with their new pet.

I'm very sorry. It seems you've lost a wonderful pet. Others can learn from your loss, with two important lessons to note.

The first: Don't delay in looking for a lost pet, or in reclaiming one. Many people assume an animal will wander home within a few days. In that same time period, however, a pet could have been taken to the shelter and stayed long enough to be legally made available for adoption or euthanized. If you lose a pet, go in person to the shelters in your area immediately, and keep checking every couple of days.

The second: What happened to Mikey is the kind of thing that happens all the time to free-roaming cats. They end up in shelters, get hit by cars, shot, poisoned, trapped or mauled by dogs or coyotes. The life of a free-roaming cat is perilous and often short.

If you ever do get Mikey back -- and odds at this point frankly aren't good -- please consider ending his wandering days and coverting him to an indoor life where he won't be at such risk again.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Rabies a risk in cats, too

Most cases of rabies in the United States occur in wild animals. Because free-roaming cats often share space with wild animals, they are at risk of being bitten.

The risk of contracting the virus from your cat -- or any cat -- is extremely small, but rabies is so deadly that if your cat were to contract it, he would need to be euthanized, and you might need to have a series of inoculations to save your life.

The seriousness of rabies is why vaccinations are recommended -- and in many places, legally mandated -- for cats as well as dogs.

If your cat tangles with a wild animal but is current on his rabies vaccination, he'll need to be quarantined. If he's not vaccinated, public-health officials may require that he be killed. That's because the only way to tell for certain whether an animal is rabid is to test the tissues of the brain.

Be sure your pet is vaccinated against this deadly, contagious disease -- for his protection, and for yours.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Feline grooming follows a routine

Kittens are groomed by their mothers for the first few weeks of their lives, but by the third week, they start grooming themselves as all cats do, in a very particular order, licking carefully and nibbling free any mats or dirt along the way.

When a cat sits down to groom, he starts by licking his lips and then wetting the side of his paw, rubbing the damp paw over the side of his face; then he repeats the same sequence of motions on the other side.

After a cat's satisfied that his face is clean, he will lick his front legs, shoulder and side, and then hike first one hind leg straight up and then the other in the position cat lovers know so well. The cat will then finish the process by licking his tail clean, starting at the base and working to the end.

Many cats can keep up with their grooming on their own, but others need some help from time to time. Reasons to help your cat with grooming (with regular bathing, combing and brushing) include:

-- Keeping allergies at bay. Regular bathing, or even rinsing with water, can help reduce allergy symptoms in people.

-- Reducing shedding. The fur you can catch on a comb or a brush isn't going to end up on furniture or clothing.

-- Improving general hygiene. On occasion some cats may get into something they can't clean off without your help, like pine or road tar. And sometimes when cats get older, they're not limber enough to keep themselves clean without your help.

A cat who suddenly loses interest in grooming may be ill. As always, when you observe behavioral changes, schedule a trip to the veterinarian to see if a medical problem is the root cause.

PET TIP

Pets need to be provided for in wills.

We don't like to plan for our own deaths, but it's something that needs to be done.

We've been conditioned to think about making arrangements for any children still young enough to need care and possibly for other family members as well. Our belongings have places they're supposed to go.

But most of us haven't given a moment's thought to what would happen to our pets if something should happen to us. And yet, our pets are counting on us to do so.

How can you ensure that your pets will be well cared for if something happens to you?

You can't leave money directly to your pet because, in the eyes of the law, an animal is a piece of property with little more legal status than a chair. Instead, you must leave your pet (and money to take care of the animal, if you can) to a friend, relative or organization that will look out for your pet's interests.

Consider, too, short-term arrangements for your pet so the animal will be cared for if you're suddenly hospitalized, or in the period before your death and the finalization of your estate.

While you should formalize any arrangements with the help of an attorney, it's essential to discuss your plans with the person you've chosen to handle your affairs, and with anyone you hope will adopt your pet. You might assume a friend or family member will adopt your pet, but that same person, no matter how well-meaning, may not be prepared for the responsibility and might quickly drop off the animal at the nearest shelter.

The Web site of the Association of the Bar of New York City (www.abcny.org/Publications/pub-provforpet.htm) offers information on providing for your pet after your death. Although the information specifically applies to New York state law, it's broad enough to outline all the options for you and your attorney to consider.

BY THE NUMBERS

How big's your bag?

Buying in bulk is a time-honored strategy when it comes to making the pet-supply budget go further, and one that's quite popular with dog-lovers, especially those with big dogs. According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, here's how bag sizes for dry dog food rank in popularity at the cash register:

5 pounds or less: 10 percent

6-10 pounds: 13 percent

11-20 pounds: 22 percent

20-40 pounds: 26 percent

40-plus pounds: 23 percent

Don't buy dry: 3 percent

No answer: 3 percent

PET TIP

Consider fur when adopting

If you're thinking of adding a cat or kitten, give some thought to fur length and the added challenges a longhaired cat presents.

Almost all cats shed, but the difference in shedding levels between short- and longhaired cats can be dramatic, especially in cats that are prized for the volume of silky coat, such as Persians. If you're on the low end of fur tolerance, you'd better stick with shorthaired cats.

Longhaired cats mat easily and need to be combed and brushed frequently. Consider, too, that their urine and feces can get caught in their coats, and litter may catch on the tufts of fur in their paws and get tracked all over the house.

For people who love longhaired cats, it's well worth the extra effort. But if you're not such a person, stick to shorthaired pets when considering adoption.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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