With kitten season in full swing and competition for good homes never keener, summer is the worst time to be a homeless adult cat.

But no matter the challenges, it seems we animal lovers always have or know of a cat who needs a new home. Perhaps a friend or relative has passed on, leaving a cat behind. Or maybe the neighbors moved and didn't care enough to take the cat with them -- a situation that's sadly more common than those of us who care about animals can imagine. Or maybe a stray cat just turned up, in the way that stray cats always do.

While adult cats can be very hard to place, it's not impossible to find a good home. Be patient and persistent, and follow these guidelines:

-- Spread the news. Make up fliers with an adorable picture and clever description, take out an ad in your newspaper, and use the Internet to spread the word. Post the fliers everywhere you can: bulletin boards at work, pet-supply stores and your veterinarian's office. Mention the cat to everyone you know, in person or by e-mail, and ask everyone to spread the word further. Contact rescue groups and let them know you're fostering a nice cat -- sometimes they'll post the information for you on Web sites such as petfinder.com.

-- Ask a price. Asking for money stops those who collect "free to good home" animals for such cruel purposes as the training of fighting dogs. Because a lot of people believe cats and kittens should be "free," don't charge for the cat herself. Instead, bring her preventive care needs up to date -- examination, vaccinations, neutering -- and then charge a small fee to offset a portion of those expenses. Explain that it's a convenience for the prospective owner, who'll be getting a cat that's veterinarian-certified to be in good health. It's a bargain for the adopter and a safety measure for the cat.

-- Don't lie about the pet's problems or why she's being placed. Although finding a new home for a pet with problems takes longer, you can usually still do so. Some people love taking in pets who have "sob stories" attached to them, or who are physically or behaviorally challenged. But the person who gets such a pet without warning is likely to bring her back, give her away or dump her.

-- Look for someone who understands that a pet is a commitment. Ask prospective adopters whether they've had pets before and what happened to them, and ask for a veterinary reference. The person who has had a lot of pets who have disappeared, died young or been given away is probably not your best choice. Likewise, the person who has had pets in the past but doesn't know a veterinarian isn't likely to use one in the future.

If you cannot find her a new home after trying for as long as you can, take the cat to a shelter or arrange for her to go to a rescue group so she can get another chance at being chosen by someone who'll care for her. (Donations to these groups, when you give them an animal, help to keep them going.) If you can, keep looking on your own until kitten season winds down in the fall, to better her odds of catching someone's eye in what can be a crowded shelter.

Above all, please don't dump the cat to fend for herself. Never forget that the pet is counting on you to find her a home where she'll be taken care of for the rest of her life. If you take on that responsibility, you must see it through.

READER PARTICIPATION

What did you do on your vacation?

Traveling with pets has never been more popular. With choices from "ruffing it" at campgrounds to getting pampered at luxury resort hotels, pets and the people who love them are finding the welcome mat out in more places than ever before.

Did you take your pet on your summer vacation? We want to hear about it and see your vacation pictures. Did you head for the mountains or the beach? Did your pet influence or dictate your travel plans? Did you run into any problems? What are your best tips for safe and easy traveling? What's your best pet-travel experience?

Send your stories and images (jpegs only, please) to petconnection@gmail.com, and we'll share them in upcoming Pet Connections.

Q&A

Explaining risks to pregnant women

Q: May I expand on your explanation of the risks to pregnant (or hope-to-be pregnant) women who are worried about keeping their cats because of toxoplasmosis?

The disease is a serious threat to unborn children if a woman contracts the disease during her pregnancy. However, a non-pregnant woman who contracts the disease will usually have no symptoms at all. She then is no longer at risk for complications if she later becomes pregnant. For women who love cats and who have lived with cats for many years, toxoplasmosis may not be an issue because they have already been exposed to the parasite, so they cannot develop active toxoplasmosis anymore.

In my opinion, it would be good advice to tell any woman who was hoping to become pregnant to ask her doctor for a toxoplasmosis antibody level to be run on her blood. If she already has had the disease, there is no risk of toxoplasmosis to her baby. (Reading between the lines: She can change the litter box, but maybe she won't want her partner to know that!)

If the woman has not had the disease, not only should she avoid changing cat litter boxes, she should also wear gloves while working outside in the garden because there can be cat feces in the flowerbed, even if she does not own a cat herself. -- Faith C. Flower, DVM, Albuquerque, N.M.

A: Thanks for explaining more about toxoplasmosis and the risks to women who are (or hope to become) pregnant. You've put the risks in proper perspective and have suggested ways to minimize them further. (One more thing that's important to remember: It's also possible to come in contact with the parasite through unsafe handling of raw or undercooked meat.) It's a shame when well-meaning friends and relatives -- and even some physicians -- insist that a cat needs to go when a woman is trying to conceive or is pregnant.

The Humane Society of the United States has been running an education campaign on this issue, targeting prospective parents and physicians. The information can be found on the group's Web site (HSUS.org, and then enter "toxoplasmosis" in the search field). The information is also available in a free brochure "Your Baby & Your Pet." To receive a copy, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to HSUS, BabyPet eNews, 2100 L Street NW, Washington, DC 20037.

Hot-weather hazards

Q: I enjoy your column, but I have a disturbing thought. In your recent column on traveling with dogs, there was a photo of a gentleman putting his large dog into an airline crate in the back of a sports-utility vehicle.

You need to tell people that air conditioning cannot travel through two rows of seats and into a nearly completely closed crate. I have observed owners putting dogs in the back of an SUV like this when it's 100 degrees, meaning the temperature inside the vehicle is about 140 degrees.

We know how long it takes to cool off the front seat with the air conditioning blowing full blast in our faces. Let's be honest: It is unsafe to put the dog in the back of an SUV or minivan without cooling down the vehicle first. -- M.Z., via e-mail

A: You're absolutely right about the importance of checking the temperature in the SUV or minivan, and making sure the area where the pet is riding isn't too hot. I recommend that people consider buying fans designed to clip onto the doors of airline crates, as well as using cooling pads or reusable ice packs wrapped in towels into the crate. Whatever it takes to keep dogs safe and cool!

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Safe pet-handling starts with soap

Because most, if not all, reptiles carry salmonella in their digestive tracks, these pets are generally not recommended for homes with children under 5 or with family members whose immune systems are compromised. For other homes, the risks can be greatly reduced by properly handling these pets. The Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians suggests these basic safety precautions:

-- Wash hands with soap and hot water after handling reptiles or after cleaning reptile enclosures.

-- Limit the part of your home that your reptile is allowed to be in, and wash your hands after being in that area.

-- Never allow reptiles in areas of the home where food is prepared. Don't share food or drink with reptiles, and don't eat, drink or smoke while handling them. Don't kiss these pets, no matter how cute you think they are.

-- Do not put reptiles into bathtubs or sinks. Buy a separate tub for bathing these pets. Pour the water down the toilet, and do not use sinks or bathtubs to clean the reptile bathing tub -- or any reptile housing or gear.

-- Supervise older children to be sure they don't touch the pets and then put their fingers in their mouths. Make sure thorough hand-washing follows each exposure to these pets.

The ARAV stresses that the precautions do not mean reptiles shouldn't be kept as pets, but rather that by following basic common sense in handling them, the potential for human health problems can be kept to a minimum. For more information, visit the ARAV Web site (www.arav.org).

PET TIP

Many birds love a good soaking

Many of the birds we keep as pets are of species most comfortable in places that we would find intolerable: the steamy, hot rain forests of Central and South America. The dry air of human homes is thought to be a contributing factor to feather-picking, a frustrating syndrome that can drive birds to pluck themselves bald.

You don't have to turn your house into a sauna to add some moisture to your pet's life. Many birds enjoy being dampened by water from a spray bottle, or being offered the chance to take a bath in a shallow dish of clean water. Some parrot lovers take their birds right into the shower with them, placing them on special perches that attach to shower tiles or letting them stand on towels placed on ledges in the shower stall.

How often should birds get a drenching? There are no firm guidelines, but daily would be fine with many birds.

PET Rx

Finicky felines need to be watched, cajoled

Although some cats have never met a dish of food they didn't love, others are very picky about what they eat. Missing a meal now and then is quite normal and nothing to worry about. But the cat who flat-out stops eating or starts losing weight is in urgent need of veterinary attention.

Before you hit the panic button, though, be sure you're seeing the true picture of what, when and where your cat is eating.

If you leave out dry food all the time, your cat may be nibbling more than a dozen times throughout the day, thus never eating very much in any one observed sitting. If your cat has access to the outdoors, you need to consider that he may be getting meals from a kind neighbor, or may be stealing from another cat's dish at a home down the street. He might even be picking up some meals the old-fashioned way: By hunting them.

If you're sure you know the big picture on your cat and know he's not eating, or if he's lost more than a half-pound or so, you'll need a veterinarian's help to find out if your cat is sick. This is true even if your cat can stand to lose weight: The cat who suddenly stops eating or starts losing weight can be seriously at risk.

Some healthy cats are truly finicky, however, and it takes a little bit of work on your part to keep them eating.

One strategy is preventive in nature: Feeding them a wide range of foods, from kittenhood on, helps keep cats from insisting on one brand or variety. Other cats can be jollied out of finicky behavior with canned food, warmed up to be even more tempting.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

BY THE NUMBERS

Feline health problems

According to Veterinary Pet Insurance Company/DVM Insurance Agency, urinary-tract infections were by far the top reason for pet-insurance claims by cat lovers, accounting for nearly 7 percent of all veterinary bills submitted for reimbursement to the company last year. Other top feline maladies:

1. Urinary tract infections

2. Stomach upsets

3. Respiratory infections

4. Ear infections

5. Skin allergies

6. Eye infections

7. Wound infections

8. Colitis

9. Gum disease

10. Kidney disease

Source: Petinsurance.com

PETS ON THE WEB

Help, hope for hard-luck Labradors

Breed rescue groups are always struggling to help the most animals on limited amounts of money, and that means making some difficult decisions from time to time. A single homeless stray who has been hit by a car and requires extensive surgery can eat up money that could have saved several healthy pets, leaving rescue groups in the difficult situation of sacrificing one pet so that others may live.

The LABMED Web site (www.labmed.org) seeks to change this sad reality, at least for homeless Labradors. The group raises money to fund medical care for those dogs who have a good chance at being an adoptable pet, if only their urgent health problems could be resolved. More than 800 Labrador and Lab mixes have been saved, and their stories on the LABMED site make for inspirational reading.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Sometimes I think having no pit bulls wouldn't be that bad a thing, but not for the reasons you might imagine.

If pit bulls weren't around, they couldn't be beaten. Starved. Left chained outside with little protection from the elements. Subjected to ear croppings with scissors and no pain relief. Made to bear puppies with next to no food. And finally, if pit bulls weren't around, they couldn't be tossed dead (or nearly so) into a vacant lot when they come up on the losing side of a dogfight.

For every headline-grabbing attack by a pit bull, there are countless cruelties inflicted on these dogs by the criminal element that's attracted to them. As a person recently noted on a dog-related Web log: "It's amazing how many other kinds of dogs in the best homes bite. It's amazing how many pit bulls in the worst homes don't."

But those who do ... Oh, what fear and anger they cause. It's no surprise, given the horror of recent attacks, that the call to eliminate pit bulls has never been louder. But that call remains the wrong one: Breed-specific legislation is not the answer to the problem of dangerous dogs.

It doesn't help much to argue that the odds of an attack by a pit bull are so low as to be insignificant compared to life's other risks, not in the face of saturation media coverage of every such attack. It doesn't help much to argue that a well-bred and properly raised pit bull can be a better companion than many other popular breeds, based on temperament-testing statistics that show these dogs to be stable and calm. It doesn't help much to argue that many of the pit bulls who are being seized and killed in places like Denver are family pets who have never shown a reason for concern -- and never will.

So let's try this: If you want to be protected against a dog attack, banning the pit bull isn't going to accomplish that goal. That's because every large breed or mix you can think of, and many small ones you can't imagine, have been involved in attacks on humans.

You cannot predict the likelihood of an attack by the type of dog, but you can see clear trends based on other criteria.

Poorly bred, unsocialized, unneutered and untrained dogs are most often involved in attacks. If you want to prevent those attacks, you need to address those root causes. All dogs, not just pit bulls, need to be the focus of legislative, societal and educational efforts geared toward removing the contributing factors behind most every dog attack.

We need to make it harder for people to casually breed and quickly sell dogs, and we need to make it easier to have animals neutered. We need to recognize that dog-fighting is as much of a danger to our communities as it is to the animals participating in this illegal but popular blood sport. We need to outlaw keeping dogs on chains, a cruel practice that leaves animals feeling isolated, territorial and more likely to attack.

And even as we need to crack down on irresponsible and criminal dog owners, we need to help those people who want to do right. We need to educate prospective dog owners on responsible care, training and socializing, so that they may raise dogs who are not dangerous.

And yes, we need to establish zero tolerance for all dangerous dogs, with no second chances: If a dog attacks someone, that animal needs to be put down. If a dog is a neighborhood menace, that animal needs to be put down.

We need to stop looking for scapegoats in the face of every pit bull, and look to addressing the human reasons behind the problem of dangerous dogs.

For then and only then can we hope to be safer around not only the pit bull, but also all dogs. And maybe then the pit bull will be safer around us, too.

SIDEBAR

Pit bulls on the Web

Pit bull Web sites are all over the Internet, and many of them are frightening. Lots of irresponsible breeders bragging about how large and aggressive their dogs are, and lots of people crowing about how "game" their pit bulls are.

And then there's the Web site of Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pitbulls, otherwise known as BAD RAP (www.badrap.org). This wonderful group doesn't celebrate the criminal, doesn't sugar-coat the problems -- and doesn't give an inch in its sensible advocacy for these dogs. BAD RAP makes the case for why a pit bull can be a wonderful human companion. But it also takes the stand that anyone with one of these dogs needs to be responsible about handling the animal, in hopes of turning the breed's bad reputation around.

All this no-nonsense advice is matched with pictures of handsome, loving pit bulls and their success stories. The information on this site is essential reading both for those who love these dogs and those who hate them.

Q&A

Are calico cats prone to straying?

Q: My calico cat of eight years has mysteriously disappeared. We live in a small neighborhood, and she was not one to stray far from the house. She was usually an indoor cat, but she liked to go out in good weather.

This happened with another of our cats a few years ago -- she just up and left. The other cat was a calico, too. There is no evidence that either cat was hit by a car or anything else.

Is it more likely for a calico to leave? She was ours ever since she was a kitten. -- J.M., via e-mail

A: Being a calico is not a risk factor, but being a cat who's allowed to roam is. You may not have found any sign that your cat was hit by a car, but that doesn't mean she wasn't. And cars aren't the only danger to a free-roaming cat. In most parts of the country, even in urban areas, coyotes love to make meals of well-fed pets, and many dogs are not opposed to killing a cat who drops into their yard.

The list of things that can happen accidentally to a free-roaming cat includes poisoning or getting killed in a car engine or automated garage door. And don't forget the things that aren't accidental: Many a neighbor sick of cat mess in the garden has set out a trap for trespassing cats and then taken the animals to the shelter.

I realize many people find it difficult to deny a cat the pleasures of wandering freely in the open air. But the fact remains that cats who are given such freedom often pay for it with their lives.

Don't give up on your cat yet, however. Check the shelters, post fliers, and knock on all the doors in your neighborhood. If you're lucky, your cat is trapped in someone's basement and will be fine if found in time.

If you are lucky enough to find your cat, consider converting her to a life completely indoors for her own safety.

Travels with parakeet

Q: My parakeet means as much to me as anyone's pet. After I got cancer, my bird kept me going. Now I want to take a short trip by car to New England and take my bird along.

I know some motels and hotels let pets in, but I am worried about the cleaning supplies they use. I don't want my bird to breathe in anything bad. What should I do? -- L.G., via e-mail

A: Like most prey animals, birds aren't all that keen when it comes to changes in their environment, and I have to wonder if perhaps your bird wouldn't be happier in your home with a friend or pet sitter checking in several times a day. Yes, your bird will miss you, but he will be comforted by the familiar environment.

If you're sure your budgie is comfortable with travel, you'll have no problem finding a hotel. The AAA travel guide lists hotels that accept pets, but I can't imagine you'd have much trouble checking into most any hotel, considering you're traveling with a relatively quiet and cage-contained little bird.

Strong cleaning supplies can be a problem, but I think you'll be OK with a sniff test. Change rooms, or even hotels, if the smell of cleaning supplies is strong. If you can barely smell the chemicals, put your bird's cage near an open window so he can get some fresh air.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Ouch! Kittens need to learn to play

Rambunctious play is normal for kittens. But those sharp claws and needle teeth don't feel good when our hands and feet are the object of our small stalking tigers.

Much as you might like to smack the kitten who has just put her claws into your skin in play, doing so won't solve the problem, and may make your pet scared of you or even more likely to bite in fear or self-defense.

Redirect and burn off that youthful energy in frequent play sessions with your kitten, using a toy to attract the attack instead of your hands. Cat fishing poles are especially useful for this kind of play. No matter how cute, don't encourage your kitten to use your fingers as a plaything.

For kittens who go crazy when being petted, learn to read feline body language, and stop touching your pet when his twitching tail indicates the very beginning of overstimulation.

If you're attacked by a playful kitten, don't lash out -- just freeze. Your kitten's short attention span will soon draw his attention elsewhere.

PET TIP

Fresh 'bird bread' a welcome treat

An easy-to-make, nutritious treat for any pet parrot, from a budgie to a macaw, starts with a box of Jiffy corn muffin mix.

Prepare the mixture as recommended on the label, but add an extra egg and any or all of the following: a cup of diced or shredded mixed vegetables (fresh, frozen or drained from a can) or a small jar of vegetable baby food, hulled seeds, dried fruit, and the shell of one egg. Zap it all in a blender to pulverize.

Bake in either a greased muffin or cake pan as directed on the box. Freeze what you aren't going to use right away, and thaw pieces for your bird as a regular treat.

This "bird bread" is a great way to convince a confirmed seed-eater that a variety of healthy food isn't so bad after all. It's also a wonderful treat for the parrot who's already getting a varied, well-balanced diet.

Another easy recipe is for a rice and veggie mix. Mix a cup of cooked brown rice with a cup of thawed mixed vegetables, chopped or shredded. Then add a couple of finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. You can also "birdify" french toast by sprinkling the egg-drenched bread with hulled seeds and cooking as usual.

PET Rx

For safety's sake, learn to 'towel' your bird

For a secure way to restrain your bird that still allows you the flexibility to clip wings or trim nails, use a towel. An old, clean hand towel is fine for small parrots such as cockatiels and budgies, while a larger bath towel is better for large parrots such as cockatoos and macaws.

Hold the towel with the ends draped over each hand, make eye contact with your bird, and approach from the front. Show your bird the towel and then gently wrap it around the bird, usually from the front. When using a towel to restrain your bird, you do not need to keep direct hold of the head, but do expect a few new holes to be chewed in the towel while you're working with your bird.

Wrap the towel tightly enough to control your bird, but not so tight as to restrict breathing. Pet birds breathe by moving their breast bones forward and back like a bellows. You must leave the towel wrapped loosely enough for your bird to draw breath normally.

When your bird is gently wrapped up in the towel, you are in control and can take care of grooming or of investigating any injuries. Attitude is everything: Always handle your bird with respect, but also with gentle firmness.

Keep in mind, too, that the towel is not supposed to terrify your bird. It's a good idea to play "towel games" now and then, covering and uncovering your bird while providing praise and special seeds for treats. That way, your bird won't come to believe the appearance of the towel is always a sign of something uncomfortable and unpleasant to come.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

BY THE NUMBERS

Off to the vet!

According to Veterinary Pet Insurance Company/DVM Insurance Agency, ear infections were by far the top reason for pet-insurance claims by dog lovers, accounting for nearly 9 percent of all veterinary bills submitted for reimbursement to the company. Other top canine maladies:

1. Ear infections

2. Skin allergies

3. Stomach upsets

4. Benign tumors

5. Bladder infections

6. Skin infections

7. Sprains

8. Eye infections

9. Colitis

10. Skin lacerations

Source: Petinsurance.com

PETS ON THE WEB

Site puts spotlight on new pet goods

With the increase not only in pets but also in the money that people are willing to spend on them comes all manner of entrepreneurs eager to become the next pet-products millionaire. Joining these small inventors with big dreams in the search for the next Kong or Greenies are huge and long-established pet-care companies looking to expand their product lines.

The resulting products coming to industry trade shows consist of a lot of cheaply made copycat junk, along with a few products sprinkled here and there that just make you want to say, "Why didn't I think of that?!"

The new Web site PetGadgets.com is designed to give pet lovers the latest on these new products, in a clean, easy-to-navigate format that makes browsing by species and category easy. The site also provides links that will allow online purchase of any product that strikes your fancy.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

How much do dogs hate baths? Enough so that the dog who doesn't hear you when you yell, "Get off the couch!" is perfectly able to pick out the magic word when you whisper, "I think the dog needs a bath" and go looking for a hiding place.

Dogs are content to live in dog-smell heaven, a place where water is only for drinking or swimming in, and never has soap added. Sadly, from a canine point of view, we make the rules that dictate how often dogs must be bathed.

But how often is that? Forget that old saw about "every six months" or even "every year." Who wants to live with a stinky dog? Dogs should be bathed monthly, or more often if they need it. Your dog should be brushed before bathing because mats and tangles, once wet, can never be removed -- you need to cut them out.

Let your brushed dog relax while you set up the proper equipment and fill the tub. A bath mat in the tub will make your dog feel more comfortable by giving him something secure to stand on. You'll also need a spray nozzle. Some people rinse dogs by pouring dirty bathwater back over them, but that defeats the purpose of bathing a dog (to get him clean), so use a nozzle.

Make sure you're dressed appropriately for bathing the dog, because chances are you're going to get wet, too. Set out your towels where you can reach them, and fold one to go under your knees to make the experience more comfortable for you.

Right before the big plunge, put a pinch of cotton just inside your dog's ears to help keep the soap out (don't forget to remove the cotton afterward).

As you drag the dog toward the bathroom door, don't spare words of love and encouragement. In working with dogs, I've found that a good attitude can go a long way, but a bad one can go even further. If your dog knows how much you hate bath time, how can he get a positive, or at least tolerable, opinion of the process? Keep your attitude high and don't let up on the praise.

Lather up, and don't use more soap than you need, or your dog will be harder to rinse and the coat won't look as nice. Rinse thoroughly, and repeat the entire process if need be. Follow up with a conditioner or detangler if your pet's coat needs either.

Lift your dog out and put a towel over him loosely while he shakes. Your dog can get more water off by shaking than you can by toweling, so let him have at it, and then finish the job by rubbing him dry when he's done.

Let your dog dry-clean by keeping him out of the yard, and he'll stay cleaner longer. And that would be a bonus for you both.

SIDEBAR

Bath-time tools

Although purely optional to the dog-bathing experience, I've come to rely on a couple of pieces of equipment that make the work easier and faster.

The first is a bathing brush, an inexpensive (less than $10) hand-held rubber tool with wide points. The Kong Company makes a good one (the Zoom Groom), and so does the pet-supply company Bamboo (the Dog Body Brush). These tools get a lather going more easily and help to get rid of loose hair. Plus, some dogs seem to enjoy the massage action.

The second tool is more pricey, but I've found it to be well worth the investment considering how often I find myself with wet retrievers. A portable dog dryer (home-use models run from just under $100 to around $200) isn't like a human blow-dryer in that it doesn't use heat to dry and style hair. Rather, the force of the air blows the water (and loose hair) from the coat, leaving a slightly damp dog who will dry much more quickly.

The easiest way to get access to good bathing tools is to go to a do-it-yourself dog wash. These businesses usually have elevated tubs (easier on knees and backs), and all the basic equipment to bathe and dry a dog.

Q&A

Are seat belts really needed?

Q: I know that you've written that dogs should be secured in the car, but I worry that restricting my dog with a seat belt could cause problems.

A human can take off the seat belt and get out, but a dog can't. After an accident, the rescuers might get the humans out of the car but forget about the dog.

As for driver distractions, my dog settles right down, occasionally moving if the sun shifts (which I think he wouldn't be able to do if he were restrained).

Perhaps the risk of hitting the windshield is far greater than being trapped in the car. But until that data comes in, I stay on the side of letting my dog do what he needs to do, as he is much wiser in the ways of dogs than I am.

Taking my above concerns into consideration, can you provide me with more information about why a restraint is better than letting the dog ride free in the car? -- S.S., via e-mail

A: Anyone who has ever been through driver training has seen images of crash dummies flying forward into the windshield. It won't even take a major accident at a high rate of speed to turn your dog into unsecured cargo, flying around the car at risk to himself and all other passengers.

Have you considered that having a dog secured is also safer after an accident? Emergency personnel could work more safely around a secured dog. And if you are incapacitated, animal-control officials will be more able to care for a dog they don't have to catch. A terrified, loose dog is never a good idea.

We are always suspicious of new ideas, I think. I remember well my grandmother worrying that we would all be trapped in a burning car if seat belts were mandated for humans. She insisted that her slender arm thrust across her grandchildren every time she applied the brakes was all the protection we needed. We know now that Gram was wrong: Seat belts do save lives.

It doesn't take much of a leap of logic to see that securing animals in a moving vehicle is just as good an idea. For the safety of your pet, of the other occupants of the car and of everyone on the road endangered by a driver's distraction, resolve to secure your dog. If you don't want to use a seat belt, then buy a crate.

Your dog may indeed be wise in the way of dogs, but he isn't so smart when it comes to traffic, or he'd have his own driver's license. You're the one who has to look out for the both of you!

Border wars

Q: We have a 6-month-old border collie and love her dearly. She is very hard to walk, though, and she pulls so hard it hurts my arms. We have tried a head halter, but she balked at it so badly we gave up. We've also tried a choker collar. It didn't help much, and I'm afraid of hurting her throat. Do you have any other suggestions? -- M.F., via e-mail

A: Your dog doesn't really understand what you want, so she's doing what she wants. Enlist a trainer's aid to help you figure out the right equipment for your dog and to show you how to use it to get your dog to walk without pulling. It's well worth the investment of time and money, and it's far cheaper than shoulder surgery.

The new front-clip harnesses, which use a dog's own momentum to stall her forward progress, might work well with your dog.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Rabbits and dental health

Image: Rabbit (Morgan, no credit)

Caption: Dental problems in rabbits are common and can cause great pain.

Dental problems are a serious health problem for rabbits, often the result of an improper diet without enough fresh vegetables and rough material like grass hays. Your rabbit needs to see a veterinarian if you observe any of the following symptoms:

-- Loss of appetite, selective appetite. A rabbit whose teeth aren't properly aligned or one with an abscess or mouth ulcer isn't going to feel much like eating. Such an animal may also avoid harder foods that are more painful to chew. Some rabbits may also indicate discomfort by frequently grinding their teeth.

-- Dropping food. Dental problems may make it difficult for a rabbit to chew completely, and the animal may be observed dropping food from the mouth while trying to eat.

-- Teary eyes. The root tip of a rabbit's upper incisor root is near the tear duct, and problems with this tooth may interfere with normal tear production. Tears may spill down the face, or the corners of the eyes may be wet or crusty. This condition may eventually result in an infection of the tear duct.

-- Nasal discharge. Although it's also a symptom of upper respiratory disease, nasal discharge might be caused by problems with the upper incisors.

-- Bulging of the eye. Abscesses can become so severe that they build up pressure behind the eye and push it out until it bulges.

Any of these symptoms can be a sign of dental disease, or of other health problems that also need to be addressed. Your rabbit needs to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Bigger pet cages are always better

If you had to spend your life in a cage, you'd want it to be as big as possible, wouldn't you? Then why settle for a tiny cage for your bird, reptile or small mammal?

Forget the pet store's labels or recommendations. For them, cage size recommendations are based on what they believe a customer will pop for -- in other words, the cheapest option available. (After all, for some small pets, the cage can be more expensive than the animal.)

Think bigger! Go one size larger than the pet-store recommendations. For a budgie, for example, get a cage sized for a cockatiel, while cockatiels should be in cages sized for small parrots.

While you're introducing that larger cage to your pet, don't forget to enrich the environment with a variety of toys (and perches, for birds). Life in a cage isn't natural for any animal, so the least you can do is make that life more interesting.

THE SCOOP

Pill-popping skills a must for pet lovers

There are two ways to pill a pet: straightforward and sneaky. Which way works best depends on you and your pet. It doesn't hurt to experiment a little, as long as you're getting that medication down your pet's throat.

The straightforward approach is a little different for cats and dogs.

For cats, take a firm but gentle grip on your pet's head from above, pry open his jaw with the index finger of your other hand, and press the pill far enough back on the tongue to trigger swallowing.

For dogs, grip the muzzle from above, pinching inward with index finger and thumb while you open the mouth with the other index finger. From there it's the same: Poke the pill as far back as you can to trigger swallowing. Holding the muzzle skyward and stroking your pet's throat will help.

A variation on this, especially useful for cats, is using a "pill gun." These plastic devices, available in pet-supply stores and catalogs, enable you to put the pill on the tip and then press it to the top of your pet's throat more accurately, quickly and easily than with your finger.

If that doesn't work, try the sneaky approach. Subterfuge works better on dogs than on cats, because cats are generally much more cautious about what they eat -- you're not fooling them at all by dressing up that pill. For dogs, peanut butter, hot dogs, liverwurst and cheese are probably the most popular pill disguisers, but tastes vary. The new Pill Pockets product is designed to hide a pill in a tasty treat, and it might work for your pet.

If nothing works, talk to your veterinarian about getting your pet's medication in a flavored paste format. "Compounding" pharmacies can produce edible medication in all kinds of pet-friendly flavors.

PET BUY

CLUMSY CATS PRESENT DECORATING CHALLENGE

Cats get into -- and onto -- everything, which can make decorating your home a challenge, especially if you're fond of delicate collectibles.

Although it's best to put your most fragile and valuable items in hutches or glass-fronted bookcases, you can get a degree of security for the rest with a product called Quake Hold, which is offered in either a putty or gel that seals objects to shelves and counters.

Quake Hold should be available at your home center or hardware store, or through any number of Internet retailers.

When it comes to keeping cats out of houseplants, consider hanging your plants to deny access or cover the soil of the planter with decorative rock with rough edges. Most cats aren't ambitious enough to swing from a hanging plant, nor are they fond of touching sharp surfaces with their paws.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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