Sometimes I think having no pit bulls wouldn't be that bad a thing, but not for the reasons you might imagine.

If pit bulls weren't around, they couldn't be beaten. Starved. Left chained outside with little protection from the elements. Subjected to ear croppings with scissors and no pain relief. Made to bear puppies with next to no food. And finally, if pit bulls weren't around, they couldn't be tossed dead (or nearly so) into a vacant lot when they come up on the losing side of a dogfight.

For every headline-grabbing attack by a pit bull, there are countless cruelties inflicted on these dogs by the criminal element that's attracted to them. As a person recently noted on a dog-related Web log: "It's amazing how many other kinds of dogs in the best homes bite. It's amazing how many pit bulls in the worst homes don't."

But those who do ... Oh, what fear and anger they cause. It's no surprise, given the horror of recent attacks, that the call to eliminate pit bulls has never been louder. But that call remains the wrong one: Breed-specific legislation is not the answer to the problem of dangerous dogs.

It doesn't help much to argue that the odds of an attack by a pit bull are so low as to be insignificant compared to life's other risks, not in the face of saturation media coverage of every such attack. It doesn't help much to argue that a well-bred and properly raised pit bull can be a better companion than many other popular breeds, based on temperament-testing statistics that show these dogs to be stable and calm. It doesn't help much to argue that many of the pit bulls who are being seized and killed in places like Denver are family pets who have never shown a reason for concern -- and never will.

So let's try this: If you want to be protected against a dog attack, banning the pit bull isn't going to accomplish that goal. That's because every large breed or mix you can think of, and many small ones you can't imagine, have been involved in attacks on humans.

You cannot predict the likelihood of an attack by the type of dog, but you can see clear trends based on other criteria.

Poorly bred, unsocialized, unneutered and untrained dogs are most often involved in attacks. If you want to prevent those attacks, you need to address those root causes. All dogs, not just pit bulls, need to be the focus of legislative, societal and educational efforts geared toward removing the contributing factors behind most every dog attack.

We need to make it harder for people to casually breed and quickly sell dogs, and we need to make it easier to have animals neutered. We need to recognize that dog-fighting is as much of a danger to our communities as it is to the animals participating in this illegal but popular blood sport. We need to outlaw keeping dogs on chains, a cruel practice that leaves animals feeling isolated, territorial and more likely to attack.

And even as we need to crack down on irresponsible and criminal dog owners, we need to help those people who want to do right. We need to educate prospective dog owners on responsible care, training and socializing, so that they may raise dogs who are not dangerous.

And yes, we need to establish zero tolerance for all dangerous dogs, with no second chances: If a dog attacks someone, that animal needs to be put down. If a dog is a neighborhood menace, that animal needs to be put down.

We need to stop looking for scapegoats in the face of every pit bull, and look to addressing the human reasons behind the problem of dangerous dogs.

For then and only then can we hope to be safer around not only the pit bull, but also all dogs. And maybe then the pit bull will be safer around us, too.

SIDEBAR

Pit bulls on the Web

Pit bull Web sites are all over the Internet, and many of them are frightening. Lots of irresponsible breeders bragging about how large and aggressive their dogs are, and lots of people crowing about how "game" their pit bulls are.

And then there's the Web site of Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pitbulls, otherwise known as BAD RAP (www.badrap.org). This wonderful group doesn't celebrate the criminal, doesn't sugar-coat the problems -- and doesn't give an inch in its sensible advocacy for these dogs. BAD RAP makes the case for why a pit bull can be a wonderful human companion. But it also takes the stand that anyone with one of these dogs needs to be responsible about handling the animal, in hopes of turning the breed's bad reputation around.

All this no-nonsense advice is matched with pictures of handsome, loving pit bulls and their success stories. The information on this site is essential reading both for those who love these dogs and those who hate them.

Q&A

Are calico cats prone to straying?

Q: My calico cat of eight years has mysteriously disappeared. We live in a small neighborhood, and she was not one to stray far from the house. She was usually an indoor cat, but she liked to go out in good weather.

This happened with another of our cats a few years ago -- she just up and left. The other cat was a calico, too. There is no evidence that either cat was hit by a car or anything else.

Is it more likely for a calico to leave? She was ours ever since she was a kitten. -- J.M., via e-mail

A: Being a calico is not a risk factor, but being a cat who's allowed to roam is. You may not have found any sign that your cat was hit by a car, but that doesn't mean she wasn't. And cars aren't the only danger to a free-roaming cat. In most parts of the country, even in urban areas, coyotes love to make meals of well-fed pets, and many dogs are not opposed to killing a cat who drops into their yard.

The list of things that can happen accidentally to a free-roaming cat includes poisoning or getting killed in a car engine or automated garage door. And don't forget the things that aren't accidental: Many a neighbor sick of cat mess in the garden has set out a trap for trespassing cats and then taken the animals to the shelter.

I realize many people find it difficult to deny a cat the pleasures of wandering freely in the open air. But the fact remains that cats who are given such freedom often pay for it with their lives.

Don't give up on your cat yet, however. Check the shelters, post fliers, and knock on all the doors in your neighborhood. If you're lucky, your cat is trapped in someone's basement and will be fine if found in time.

If you are lucky enough to find your cat, consider converting her to a life completely indoors for her own safety.

Travels with parakeet

Q: My parakeet means as much to me as anyone's pet. After I got cancer, my bird kept me going. Now I want to take a short trip by car to New England and take my bird along.

I know some motels and hotels let pets in, but I am worried about the cleaning supplies they use. I don't want my bird to breathe in anything bad. What should I do? -- L.G., via e-mail

A: Like most prey animals, birds aren't all that keen when it comes to changes in their environment, and I have to wonder if perhaps your bird wouldn't be happier in your home with a friend or pet sitter checking in several times a day. Yes, your bird will miss you, but he will be comforted by the familiar environment.

If you're sure your budgie is comfortable with travel, you'll have no problem finding a hotel. The AAA travel guide lists hotels that accept pets, but I can't imagine you'd have much trouble checking into most any hotel, considering you're traveling with a relatively quiet and cage-contained little bird.

Strong cleaning supplies can be a problem, but I think you'll be OK with a sniff test. Change rooms, or even hotels, if the smell of cleaning supplies is strong. If you can barely smell the chemicals, put your bird's cage near an open window so he can get some fresh air.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Ouch! Kittens need to learn to play

Rambunctious play is normal for kittens. But those sharp claws and needle teeth don't feel good when our hands and feet are the object of our small stalking tigers.

Much as you might like to smack the kitten who has just put her claws into your skin in play, doing so won't solve the problem, and may make your pet scared of you or even more likely to bite in fear or self-defense.

Redirect and burn off that youthful energy in frequent play sessions with your kitten, using a toy to attract the attack instead of your hands. Cat fishing poles are especially useful for this kind of play. No matter how cute, don't encourage your kitten to use your fingers as a plaything.

For kittens who go crazy when being petted, learn to read feline body language, and stop touching your pet when his twitching tail indicates the very beginning of overstimulation.

If you're attacked by a playful kitten, don't lash out -- just freeze. Your kitten's short attention span will soon draw his attention elsewhere.

PET TIP

Fresh 'bird bread' a welcome treat

An easy-to-make, nutritious treat for any pet parrot, from a budgie to a macaw, starts with a box of Jiffy corn muffin mix.

Prepare the mixture as recommended on the label, but add an extra egg and any or all of the following: a cup of diced or shredded mixed vegetables (fresh, frozen or drained from a can) or a small jar of vegetable baby food, hulled seeds, dried fruit, and the shell of one egg. Zap it all in a blender to pulverize.

Bake in either a greased muffin or cake pan as directed on the box. Freeze what you aren't going to use right away, and thaw pieces for your bird as a regular treat.

This "bird bread" is a great way to convince a confirmed seed-eater that a variety of healthy food isn't so bad after all. It's also a wonderful treat for the parrot who's already getting a varied, well-balanced diet.

Another easy recipe is for a rice and veggie mix. Mix a cup of cooked brown rice with a cup of thawed mixed vegetables, chopped or shredded. Then add a couple of finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. You can also "birdify" french toast by sprinkling the egg-drenched bread with hulled seeds and cooking as usual.

PET Rx

For safety's sake, learn to 'towel' your bird

For a secure way to restrain your bird that still allows you the flexibility to clip wings or trim nails, use a towel. An old, clean hand towel is fine for small parrots such as cockatiels and budgies, while a larger bath towel is better for large parrots such as cockatoos and macaws.

Hold the towel with the ends draped over each hand, make eye contact with your bird, and approach from the front. Show your bird the towel and then gently wrap it around the bird, usually from the front. When using a towel to restrain your bird, you do not need to keep direct hold of the head, but do expect a few new holes to be chewed in the towel while you're working with your bird.

Wrap the towel tightly enough to control your bird, but not so tight as to restrict breathing. Pet birds breathe by moving their breast bones forward and back like a bellows. You must leave the towel wrapped loosely enough for your bird to draw breath normally.

When your bird is gently wrapped up in the towel, you are in control and can take care of grooming or of investigating any injuries. Attitude is everything: Always handle your bird with respect, but also with gentle firmness.

Keep in mind, too, that the towel is not supposed to terrify your bird. It's a good idea to play "towel games" now and then, covering and uncovering your bird while providing praise and special seeds for treats. That way, your bird won't come to believe the appearance of the towel is always a sign of something uncomfortable and unpleasant to come.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

BY THE NUMBERS

Off to the vet!

According to Veterinary Pet Insurance Company/DVM Insurance Agency, ear infections were by far the top reason for pet-insurance claims by dog lovers, accounting for nearly 9 percent of all veterinary bills submitted for reimbursement to the company. Other top canine maladies:

1. Ear infections

2. Skin allergies

3. Stomach upsets

4. Benign tumors

5. Bladder infections

6. Skin infections

7. Sprains

8. Eye infections

9. Colitis

10. Skin lacerations

Source: Petinsurance.com

PETS ON THE WEB

Site puts spotlight on new pet goods

With the increase not only in pets but also in the money that people are willing to spend on them comes all manner of entrepreneurs eager to become the next pet-products millionaire. Joining these small inventors with big dreams in the search for the next Kong or Greenies are huge and long-established pet-care companies looking to expand their product lines.

The resulting products coming to industry trade shows consist of a lot of cheaply made copycat junk, along with a few products sprinkled here and there that just make you want to say, "Why didn't I think of that?!"

The new Web site PetGadgets.com is designed to give pet lovers the latest on these new products, in a clean, easy-to-navigate format that makes browsing by species and category easy. The site also provides links that will allow online purchase of any product that strikes your fancy.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

How much do dogs hate baths? Enough so that the dog who doesn't hear you when you yell, "Get off the couch!" is perfectly able to pick out the magic word when you whisper, "I think the dog needs a bath" and go looking for a hiding place.

Dogs are content to live in dog-smell heaven, a place where water is only for drinking or swimming in, and never has soap added. Sadly, from a canine point of view, we make the rules that dictate how often dogs must be bathed.

But how often is that? Forget that old saw about "every six months" or even "every year." Who wants to live with a stinky dog? Dogs should be bathed monthly, or more often if they need it. Your dog should be brushed before bathing because mats and tangles, once wet, can never be removed -- you need to cut them out.

Let your brushed dog relax while you set up the proper equipment and fill the tub. A bath mat in the tub will make your dog feel more comfortable by giving him something secure to stand on. You'll also need a spray nozzle. Some people rinse dogs by pouring dirty bathwater back over them, but that defeats the purpose of bathing a dog (to get him clean), so use a nozzle.

Make sure you're dressed appropriately for bathing the dog, because chances are you're going to get wet, too. Set out your towels where you can reach them, and fold one to go under your knees to make the experience more comfortable for you.

Right before the big plunge, put a pinch of cotton just inside your dog's ears to help keep the soap out (don't forget to remove the cotton afterward).

As you drag the dog toward the bathroom door, don't spare words of love and encouragement. In working with dogs, I've found that a good attitude can go a long way, but a bad one can go even further. If your dog knows how much you hate bath time, how can he get a positive, or at least tolerable, opinion of the process? Keep your attitude high and don't let up on the praise.

Lather up, and don't use more soap than you need, or your dog will be harder to rinse and the coat won't look as nice. Rinse thoroughly, and repeat the entire process if need be. Follow up with a conditioner or detangler if your pet's coat needs either.

Lift your dog out and put a towel over him loosely while he shakes. Your dog can get more water off by shaking than you can by toweling, so let him have at it, and then finish the job by rubbing him dry when he's done.

Let your dog dry-clean by keeping him out of the yard, and he'll stay cleaner longer. And that would be a bonus for you both.

SIDEBAR

Bath-time tools

Although purely optional to the dog-bathing experience, I've come to rely on a couple of pieces of equipment that make the work easier and faster.

The first is a bathing brush, an inexpensive (less than $10) hand-held rubber tool with wide points. The Kong Company makes a good one (the Zoom Groom), and so does the pet-supply company Bamboo (the Dog Body Brush). These tools get a lather going more easily and help to get rid of loose hair. Plus, some dogs seem to enjoy the massage action.

The second tool is more pricey, but I've found it to be well worth the investment considering how often I find myself with wet retrievers. A portable dog dryer (home-use models run from just under $100 to around $200) isn't like a human blow-dryer in that it doesn't use heat to dry and style hair. Rather, the force of the air blows the water (and loose hair) from the coat, leaving a slightly damp dog who will dry much more quickly.

The easiest way to get access to good bathing tools is to go to a do-it-yourself dog wash. These businesses usually have elevated tubs (easier on knees and backs), and all the basic equipment to bathe and dry a dog.

Q&A

Are seat belts really needed?

Q: I know that you've written that dogs should be secured in the car, but I worry that restricting my dog with a seat belt could cause problems.

A human can take off the seat belt and get out, but a dog can't. After an accident, the rescuers might get the humans out of the car but forget about the dog.

As for driver distractions, my dog settles right down, occasionally moving if the sun shifts (which I think he wouldn't be able to do if he were restrained).

Perhaps the risk of hitting the windshield is far greater than being trapped in the car. But until that data comes in, I stay on the side of letting my dog do what he needs to do, as he is much wiser in the ways of dogs than I am.

Taking my above concerns into consideration, can you provide me with more information about why a restraint is better than letting the dog ride free in the car? -- S.S., via e-mail

A: Anyone who has ever been through driver training has seen images of crash dummies flying forward into the windshield. It won't even take a major accident at a high rate of speed to turn your dog into unsecured cargo, flying around the car at risk to himself and all other passengers.

Have you considered that having a dog secured is also safer after an accident? Emergency personnel could work more safely around a secured dog. And if you are incapacitated, animal-control officials will be more able to care for a dog they don't have to catch. A terrified, loose dog is never a good idea.

We are always suspicious of new ideas, I think. I remember well my grandmother worrying that we would all be trapped in a burning car if seat belts were mandated for humans. She insisted that her slender arm thrust across her grandchildren every time she applied the brakes was all the protection we needed. We know now that Gram was wrong: Seat belts do save lives.

It doesn't take much of a leap of logic to see that securing animals in a moving vehicle is just as good an idea. For the safety of your pet, of the other occupants of the car and of everyone on the road endangered by a driver's distraction, resolve to secure your dog. If you don't want to use a seat belt, then buy a crate.

Your dog may indeed be wise in the way of dogs, but he isn't so smart when it comes to traffic, or he'd have his own driver's license. You're the one who has to look out for the both of you!

Border wars

Q: We have a 6-month-old border collie and love her dearly. She is very hard to walk, though, and she pulls so hard it hurts my arms. We have tried a head halter, but she balked at it so badly we gave up. We've also tried a choker collar. It didn't help much, and I'm afraid of hurting her throat. Do you have any other suggestions? -- M.F., via e-mail

A: Your dog doesn't really understand what you want, so she's doing what she wants. Enlist a trainer's aid to help you figure out the right equipment for your dog and to show you how to use it to get your dog to walk without pulling. It's well worth the investment of time and money, and it's far cheaper than shoulder surgery.

The new front-clip harnesses, which use a dog's own momentum to stall her forward progress, might work well with your dog.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Rabbits and dental health

Image: Rabbit (Morgan, no credit)

Caption: Dental problems in rabbits are common and can cause great pain.

Dental problems are a serious health problem for rabbits, often the result of an improper diet without enough fresh vegetables and rough material like grass hays. Your rabbit needs to see a veterinarian if you observe any of the following symptoms:

-- Loss of appetite, selective appetite. A rabbit whose teeth aren't properly aligned or one with an abscess or mouth ulcer isn't going to feel much like eating. Such an animal may also avoid harder foods that are more painful to chew. Some rabbits may also indicate discomfort by frequently grinding their teeth.

-- Dropping food. Dental problems may make it difficult for a rabbit to chew completely, and the animal may be observed dropping food from the mouth while trying to eat.

-- Teary eyes. The root tip of a rabbit's upper incisor root is near the tear duct, and problems with this tooth may interfere with normal tear production. Tears may spill down the face, or the corners of the eyes may be wet or crusty. This condition may eventually result in an infection of the tear duct.

-- Nasal discharge. Although it's also a symptom of upper respiratory disease, nasal discharge might be caused by problems with the upper incisors.

-- Bulging of the eye. Abscesses can become so severe that they build up pressure behind the eye and push it out until it bulges.

Any of these symptoms can be a sign of dental disease, or of other health problems that also need to be addressed. Your rabbit needs to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Bigger pet cages are always better

If you had to spend your life in a cage, you'd want it to be as big as possible, wouldn't you? Then why settle for a tiny cage for your bird, reptile or small mammal?

Forget the pet store's labels or recommendations. For them, cage size recommendations are based on what they believe a customer will pop for -- in other words, the cheapest option available. (After all, for some small pets, the cage can be more expensive than the animal.)

Think bigger! Go one size larger than the pet-store recommendations. For a budgie, for example, get a cage sized for a cockatiel, while cockatiels should be in cages sized for small parrots.

While you're introducing that larger cage to your pet, don't forget to enrich the environment with a variety of toys (and perches, for birds). Life in a cage isn't natural for any animal, so the least you can do is make that life more interesting.

THE SCOOP

Pill-popping skills a must for pet lovers

There are two ways to pill a pet: straightforward and sneaky. Which way works best depends on you and your pet. It doesn't hurt to experiment a little, as long as you're getting that medication down your pet's throat.

The straightforward approach is a little different for cats and dogs.

For cats, take a firm but gentle grip on your pet's head from above, pry open his jaw with the index finger of your other hand, and press the pill far enough back on the tongue to trigger swallowing.

For dogs, grip the muzzle from above, pinching inward with index finger and thumb while you open the mouth with the other index finger. From there it's the same: Poke the pill as far back as you can to trigger swallowing. Holding the muzzle skyward and stroking your pet's throat will help.

A variation on this, especially useful for cats, is using a "pill gun." These plastic devices, available in pet-supply stores and catalogs, enable you to put the pill on the tip and then press it to the top of your pet's throat more accurately, quickly and easily than with your finger.

If that doesn't work, try the sneaky approach. Subterfuge works better on dogs than on cats, because cats are generally much more cautious about what they eat -- you're not fooling them at all by dressing up that pill. For dogs, peanut butter, hot dogs, liverwurst and cheese are probably the most popular pill disguisers, but tastes vary. The new Pill Pockets product is designed to hide a pill in a tasty treat, and it might work for your pet.

If nothing works, talk to your veterinarian about getting your pet's medication in a flavored paste format. "Compounding" pharmacies can produce edible medication in all kinds of pet-friendly flavors.

PET BUY

CLUMSY CATS PRESENT DECORATING CHALLENGE

Cats get into -- and onto -- everything, which can make decorating your home a challenge, especially if you're fond of delicate collectibles.

Although it's best to put your most fragile and valuable items in hutches or glass-fronted bookcases, you can get a degree of security for the rest with a product called Quake Hold, which is offered in either a putty or gel that seals objects to shelves and counters.

Quake Hold should be available at your home center or hardware store, or through any number of Internet retailers.

When it comes to keeping cats out of houseplants, consider hanging your plants to deny access or cover the soil of the planter with decorative rock with rough edges. Most cats aren't ambitious enough to swing from a hanging plant, nor are they fond of touching sharp surfaces with their paws.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Puppies grow up too soon, as anyone who has ever loved one can tell you. When your pup is grown you've lost not only some of the cuteness, but also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get him off to a good start in life.

It's always easier to prevent problems than to try to fix them later, and one of the most important ways to do this is by socializing your puppy.

Introduce a puppy to all the new things you can -- people, places and other animals. When a puppy isn't exposed to new things, social development stops or even regresses. The goal of socializing is a confident, outgoing dog who isn't shy or aggressive. A good pet, in other words.

"But wait!" you say. "What about disease? My vet told me to keep my puppy at home until his last puppy shot. And you're saying I should go out? Is that safe?"

Well, your veterinarian is right. Your puppy is at risk for contracting diseases from other dogs before his full immunity is in place. This is why you shouldn't go anywhere where dogs you do not know hang out -- parks, dog events or pet stores -- until your veterinarian gives the go-ahead. But that doesn't mean you should leave your puppy at home.

Use common sense. Plan safe outings. And take a puppy class, because the trainers know the risks and work to minimize them by keeping the training area sanitized. And when that last puppy shot is in, at 14 to 16 weeks, pull out all the stops when it comes to socialization.

Why take any chances at all? Because doing so is important. An unsocialized dog, whether fearful or aggressive, is at a high risk for ending up in a shelter, with little chance at being adopted again. Some experts argue that, in the long run, behavior problems kill more dogs than parvovirus does, which puts the importance of proper and safe socialization in perspective.

Dogs are genetically predisposed to have more potential to become part of human society than wolves or coyotes, but it's not always easy for them. When you give your pup an understanding that living with humans means new adventures are not to be feared, you are sharing a wonderful gift.

So socialize, and remember that the world is full of scary things, especially to a little puppy. At times, even the boldest of puppies is paralyzed with uncertainty when faced with something he's never seen before. Your response to his fear is very important.

Don't soothe your pup. Petting him and saying, "It's OK, baby" (or something similar) gives your puppy the idea that being scared is OK and that you're rewarding him for the behavior. Instead, be matter-of-fact and encouraging.

Let him work it out, and when he takes that step forward, praise him for his courage. Then move on, one more step into your life together.

SIDEBAR

A guide for puppy-raising

When my puppy, McKenzie, arrived at the end of April, I knew she was a bright, adorable 8-week-old retriever with tons of potential to be a wonderful companion and dog-sports competitor. And I knew that to achieve that potential, I had work to do. My goal: to introduce her to dozens of new experiences -- sights, sounds, smells -- before the optimum socialization window closed at 16 weeks.

McKenzie had a head start, since she came from a top breeder who worked with my pup and her siblings constantly, exposing them gently to different shapes, textures, temperatures and more. And I got further assistance from The Ultimate Puppy Tool Kit, a boxed collection of materials to help with puppy socialization and training. (The Tool Kit is $20 from pet-supply outlets or direct from Premier Pet Products at ultimatepuppy.com.)

The kit includes six well-written training modules with helpful photo illustrations, as well as handy pocket guides to take with you when you and your puppy venture out. What I found most helpful was a poster that described canine development stages and what I should be doing with my puppy during each. It wasn't new information to me, but being able to see it all in one place -- I put the poster on my refrigerator door -- helped me to keep McKenzie on track.

McKenzie is now approaching 6 months, a happy, outgoing puppy who knows not only basic obedience but also a few cute tricks. She's well on her way to a well-mannered adulthood and perhaps a brilliant dog-sports career.

Q&A

Rabbits get forgotten, too

Q: I read your article on people who give up on Christmas puppies later on. Could you please write something about Easter pets, especially rabbits? I am a rabbit lover. I own a pet rabbit who is part of the family, who lives in the house with my cat and is never caged.

I see so many people who have rabbits and just put them in a small cage outside. It kills me because rabbits can't tolerate the heat, and they need exercise and love. And then there are people keep them in a cage with nothing to stand on but wire. I will do anything I can to stop this cruelty, and I would appreciate your help. -- D.H., e-mail

A: Thank you for helping me to spread the word about the proper care of rabbits. These animals are hugely underappreciated as playful, affectionate and quiet house pets that can be trained to use a litter box and have supervised play time out of their cages.

Last year I visited the world's only shelter dedicated solely to the placement of unwanted rabbits, at the headquarters of the House Rabbit Society in Richmond, Calif. Even for someone who has been writing about animals as long as I have, it was an eye opener to see how friendly and relaxed indoor bunnies could be.

Not long after that, on an assignment at my local SPCA, I fell in love with a rabbit who'd been brought in near death and nursed back to health by the humane officer who'd taken a fancy to the sweet-natured bunny. Turbo joined my family almost a year ago; now, I'm looking for a suitable companion for him.

The best source for information on the care of house rabbits -- and on why rabbits deserve a better life than they can get in a small outdoor hutch -- can be found on the Web site of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org).

Weight-loss concern

Q: I have a 13-year-old spayed female cat who went from 18 pounds in May of last year to 10 pounds last month. We've continued to feed her the same food in the same amounts. The only change is that we live in a two-story condo now instead of a one-story apartment.

Should we be concerned with the drastic weight loss? We've tried to reduce her weight many times with no luck, so this is bit of a shock. -- W.G., e-mail

A: I think you have reason to be concerned about weight loss as dramatic as hers. Since you've said there was no change in the amount of food she eats, I can't imagine she's running up and down those stairs enough to burn off the weight.

Your cat needs to see a veterinarian for a thorough evaluation of her health. My concern would be a problem such a hyperthyroidism, a common illness in older cats where the thyroid gland overproduces this essential hormone. Typically, hyperthyroid cats lose weight and seem to be much more energetic, but the disease has a serious downside, too, and needs to be treated.

The good news is that if it is hyperthyroidism, it can be treated successfully in a couple of different ways. Radiation treatment is considered the best treatment option for a positive outcome, but many owners successfully maintain their cats on daily medication for life. Ask your veterinarian to outline all treatment options so you can decide what's right for your cat.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET RX

Getting vitals can help your cat

Everyone with a cat should know how to take the animal's vital signs. Here's how to perform these important procedures:

-- Temperature: Put a little lubricant on a pet thermometer and gently insert it between 1 and 2 inches into your cat's rectum. The temperature should be between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees, and the thermometer should be almost clean after it's removed. Call your veterinarian if your cat's temperature is below 99 degrees or above 103 degrees, or if you see evidence of mucous, blood, diarrhea, or a black, tarry stool on the thermometer.

-- Heart rate: Feel the your cat's heartbeat with one hand over his left side, behind the front leg. Count the number of beats in 15 seconds and multiply by four to get the heart rate. A normal cat is between 140 and 220 beats per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat's heart rate is too rapid, too slow or irregular.

-- Respiratory rate: Stand back a bit and watch your cat breathe when he is relaxed and standing. Watch the abdomen and chest wall move. Often it is easier to count the respiratory rate when you watch the abdomen move. Count the number of movements in 60 seconds to get the respiratory rate. A normal cat is between 15 and 25 breaths per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat's respiratory rate is too rapid.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Dogpatch inspires canine competitors

Exercise and training are an important part of a high-quality life for your dog, and the two pair nicely in the world of dog sports. No matter the size or breed of your dog, you can find a sport you both will enjoy. Your dog will be happier and healthier, and the bond between you stronger for the time you spend together as a team.

A good place to start researching dog sports is the Dogpatch (www.dogpatch.org). The Web site has information on many kinds of canine competitions, plus links to some of the best Web pages for training information. Are you and your dog couch potatoes? This site may inspire a change!

PET TIP

Get your bird off the junk-food diet

Reputable bird breeders and bird shops sell healthy pets already eating a healthy diet. But some people have birds who are junk-food junkies, or they fall in love with a secondhand bird whose diet needs revising.

With patience, even the most stubborn seed-freak can learn to eat a healthy mix of pellets and fresh "people food," including fruits and vegetables. Here's how:

-- Confirm good health. Before messing with your pet's diet, make sure he's in good health by having your veterinarian go over him thoroughly. Birds are adept at hiding illness, and the stress of a diet change may be too much for a bird who's sick.

-- Combine the old and the new. Mix what your bird has been eating with a high-quality pelleted diet and fresh foods. Feed your bird this mixture out of a single food bowl, too, and never offer enough seeds to fill him up.

-- Gradually reduce seeds. Start with a 50/50 blend of seeds and pellets for two to four weeks, reducing the percentage of seeds slowly over time. Vary the amounts of pellets, fruit, veggies and seeds you offer each day. Be inconsistent in what your bird can expect to see in that food bowl the next day -- it'll keep your bird busy checking for the jackpot of food he likes.

-- Feed new foods in the morning. Birds are the most hungry when they first wake up, so offer pellets and fresh foods exclusively at the start of the day before adding seed to the mix later in the day.

-- Demonstrate good eating habits. Eat healthy foods in front of your bird, and offer him some of what you're having. He'll try most anything you're eating.

Birds can and do starve themselves to death, so make sure you observe your bird eating, check to see that he is passing normal waste matter, and feel the muscle on both sides of his keel bone (which runs right down the middle of his chest) periodically to be sure he's maintaining weight. Talk to your avian veterinarian if you have questions or concerns.

THE SCOOP

Some good pets get overlooked

When it comes to placing pets, shelter workers and rescue volunteers know some animals have two strikes against them from the start. The road to a new home can be a difficult one indeed for big black dogs and big white bunnies.

Large dogs are always harder to place than small ones. Couple the problems of size with the perception of dark-colored dogs as potentially menacing and you have some perfectly wonderful animals who never get a second look in a shelter.

Rabbit rescuers say large white bunnies are likewise overlooked. Seems many people don't consider "ordinary" white rabbits to be as attractive as bunnies with more interesting markings or lop ears.

In both cases, adopters who automatically rule out these animals when looking for a new pet are missing out on the chance to pick up a great companion -- and strike a blow for fairness, besides.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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