How much do dogs hate baths? Enough so that the dog who doesn't hear you when you yell, "Get off the couch!" is perfectly able to pick out the magic word when you whisper, "I think the dog needs a bath" and go looking for a hiding place.

Dogs are content to live in dog-smell heaven, a place where water is only for drinking or swimming in, and never has soap added. Sadly, from a canine point of view, we make the rules that dictate how often dogs must be bathed.

But how often is that? Forget that old saw about "every six months" or even "every year." Who wants to live with a stinky dog? Dogs should be bathed monthly, or more often if they need it. Your dog should be brushed before bathing because mats and tangles, once wet, can never be removed -- you need to cut them out.

Let your brushed dog relax while you set up the proper equipment and fill the tub. A bath mat in the tub will make your dog feel more comfortable by giving him something secure to stand on. You'll also need a spray nozzle. Some people rinse dogs by pouring dirty bathwater back over them, but that defeats the purpose of bathing a dog (to get him clean), so use a nozzle.

Make sure you're dressed appropriately for bathing the dog, because chances are you're going to get wet, too. Set out your towels where you can reach them, and fold one to go under your knees to make the experience more comfortable for you.

Right before the big plunge, put a pinch of cotton just inside your dog's ears to help keep the soap out (don't forget to remove the cotton afterward).

As you drag the dog toward the bathroom door, don't spare words of love and encouragement. In working with dogs, I've found that a good attitude can go a long way, but a bad one can go even further. If your dog knows how much you hate bath time, how can he get a positive, or at least tolerable, opinion of the process? Keep your attitude high and don't let up on the praise.

Lather up, and don't use more soap than you need, or your dog will be harder to rinse and the coat won't look as nice. Rinse thoroughly, and repeat the entire process if need be. Follow up with a conditioner or detangler if your pet's coat needs either.

Lift your dog out and put a towel over him loosely while he shakes. Your dog can get more water off by shaking than you can by toweling, so let him have at it, and then finish the job by rubbing him dry when he's done.

Let your dog dry-clean by keeping him out of the yard, and he'll stay cleaner longer. And that would be a bonus for you both.

SIDEBAR

Bath-time tools

Although purely optional to the dog-bathing experience, I've come to rely on a couple of pieces of equipment that make the work easier and faster.

The first is a bathing brush, an inexpensive (less than $10) hand-held rubber tool with wide points. The Kong Company makes a good one (the Zoom Groom), and so does the pet-supply company Bamboo (the Dog Body Brush). These tools get a lather going more easily and help to get rid of loose hair. Plus, some dogs seem to enjoy the massage action.

The second tool is more pricey, but I've found it to be well worth the investment considering how often I find myself with wet retrievers. A portable dog dryer (home-use models run from just under $100 to around $200) isn't like a human blow-dryer in that it doesn't use heat to dry and style hair. Rather, the force of the air blows the water (and loose hair) from the coat, leaving a slightly damp dog who will dry much more quickly.

The easiest way to get access to good bathing tools is to go to a do-it-yourself dog wash. These businesses usually have elevated tubs (easier on knees and backs), and all the basic equipment to bathe and dry a dog.

Q&A

Are seat belts really needed?

Q: I know that you've written that dogs should be secured in the car, but I worry that restricting my dog with a seat belt could cause problems.

A human can take off the seat belt and get out, but a dog can't. After an accident, the rescuers might get the humans out of the car but forget about the dog.

As for driver distractions, my dog settles right down, occasionally moving if the sun shifts (which I think he wouldn't be able to do if he were restrained).

Perhaps the risk of hitting the windshield is far greater than being trapped in the car. But until that data comes in, I stay on the side of letting my dog do what he needs to do, as he is much wiser in the ways of dogs than I am.

Taking my above concerns into consideration, can you provide me with more information about why a restraint is better than letting the dog ride free in the car? -- S.S., via e-mail

A: Anyone who has ever been through driver training has seen images of crash dummies flying forward into the windshield. It won't even take a major accident at a high rate of speed to turn your dog into unsecured cargo, flying around the car at risk to himself and all other passengers.

Have you considered that having a dog secured is also safer after an accident? Emergency personnel could work more safely around a secured dog. And if you are incapacitated, animal-control officials will be more able to care for a dog they don't have to catch. A terrified, loose dog is never a good idea.

We are always suspicious of new ideas, I think. I remember well my grandmother worrying that we would all be trapped in a burning car if seat belts were mandated for humans. She insisted that her slender arm thrust across her grandchildren every time she applied the brakes was all the protection we needed. We know now that Gram was wrong: Seat belts do save lives.

It doesn't take much of a leap of logic to see that securing animals in a moving vehicle is just as good an idea. For the safety of your pet, of the other occupants of the car and of everyone on the road endangered by a driver's distraction, resolve to secure your dog. If you don't want to use a seat belt, then buy a crate.

Your dog may indeed be wise in the way of dogs, but he isn't so smart when it comes to traffic, or he'd have his own driver's license. You're the one who has to look out for the both of you!

Border wars

Q: We have a 6-month-old border collie and love her dearly. She is very hard to walk, though, and she pulls so hard it hurts my arms. We have tried a head halter, but she balked at it so badly we gave up. We've also tried a choker collar. It didn't help much, and I'm afraid of hurting her throat. Do you have any other suggestions? -- M.F., via e-mail

A: Your dog doesn't really understand what you want, so she's doing what she wants. Enlist a trainer's aid to help you figure out the right equipment for your dog and to show you how to use it to get your dog to walk without pulling. It's well worth the investment of time and money, and it's far cheaper than shoulder surgery.

The new front-clip harnesses, which use a dog's own momentum to stall her forward progress, might work well with your dog.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Rabbits and dental health

Image: Rabbit (Morgan, no credit)

Caption: Dental problems in rabbits are common and can cause great pain.

Dental problems are a serious health problem for rabbits, often the result of an improper diet without enough fresh vegetables and rough material like grass hays. Your rabbit needs to see a veterinarian if you observe any of the following symptoms:

-- Loss of appetite, selective appetite. A rabbit whose teeth aren't properly aligned or one with an abscess or mouth ulcer isn't going to feel much like eating. Such an animal may also avoid harder foods that are more painful to chew. Some rabbits may also indicate discomfort by frequently grinding their teeth.

-- Dropping food. Dental problems may make it difficult for a rabbit to chew completely, and the animal may be observed dropping food from the mouth while trying to eat.

-- Teary eyes. The root tip of a rabbit's upper incisor root is near the tear duct, and problems with this tooth may interfere with normal tear production. Tears may spill down the face, or the corners of the eyes may be wet or crusty. This condition may eventually result in an infection of the tear duct.

-- Nasal discharge. Although it's also a symptom of upper respiratory disease, nasal discharge might be caused by problems with the upper incisors.

-- Bulging of the eye. Abscesses can become so severe that they build up pressure behind the eye and push it out until it bulges.

Any of these symptoms can be a sign of dental disease, or of other health problems that also need to be addressed. Your rabbit needs to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Bigger pet cages are always better

If you had to spend your life in a cage, you'd want it to be as big as possible, wouldn't you? Then why settle for a tiny cage for your bird, reptile or small mammal?

Forget the pet store's labels or recommendations. For them, cage size recommendations are based on what they believe a customer will pop for -- in other words, the cheapest option available. (After all, for some small pets, the cage can be more expensive than the animal.)

Think bigger! Go one size larger than the pet-store recommendations. For a budgie, for example, get a cage sized for a cockatiel, while cockatiels should be in cages sized for small parrots.

While you're introducing that larger cage to your pet, don't forget to enrich the environment with a variety of toys (and perches, for birds). Life in a cage isn't natural for any animal, so the least you can do is make that life more interesting.

THE SCOOP

Pill-popping skills a must for pet lovers

There are two ways to pill a pet: straightforward and sneaky. Which way works best depends on you and your pet. It doesn't hurt to experiment a little, as long as you're getting that medication down your pet's throat.

The straightforward approach is a little different for cats and dogs.

For cats, take a firm but gentle grip on your pet's head from above, pry open his jaw with the index finger of your other hand, and press the pill far enough back on the tongue to trigger swallowing.

For dogs, grip the muzzle from above, pinching inward with index finger and thumb while you open the mouth with the other index finger. From there it's the same: Poke the pill as far back as you can to trigger swallowing. Holding the muzzle skyward and stroking your pet's throat will help.

A variation on this, especially useful for cats, is using a "pill gun." These plastic devices, available in pet-supply stores and catalogs, enable you to put the pill on the tip and then press it to the top of your pet's throat more accurately, quickly and easily than with your finger.

If that doesn't work, try the sneaky approach. Subterfuge works better on dogs than on cats, because cats are generally much more cautious about what they eat -- you're not fooling them at all by dressing up that pill. For dogs, peanut butter, hot dogs, liverwurst and cheese are probably the most popular pill disguisers, but tastes vary. The new Pill Pockets product is designed to hide a pill in a tasty treat, and it might work for your pet.

If nothing works, talk to your veterinarian about getting your pet's medication in a flavored paste format. "Compounding" pharmacies can produce edible medication in all kinds of pet-friendly flavors.

PET BUY

CLUMSY CATS PRESENT DECORATING CHALLENGE

Cats get into -- and onto -- everything, which can make decorating your home a challenge, especially if you're fond of delicate collectibles.

Although it's best to put your most fragile and valuable items in hutches or glass-fronted bookcases, you can get a degree of security for the rest with a product called Quake Hold, which is offered in either a putty or gel that seals objects to shelves and counters.

Quake Hold should be available at your home center or hardware store, or through any number of Internet retailers.

When it comes to keeping cats out of houseplants, consider hanging your plants to deny access or cover the soil of the planter with decorative rock with rough edges. Most cats aren't ambitious enough to swing from a hanging plant, nor are they fond of touching sharp surfaces with their paws.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Puppies grow up too soon, as anyone who has ever loved one can tell you. When your pup is grown you've lost not only some of the cuteness, but also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get him off to a good start in life.

It's always easier to prevent problems than to try to fix them later, and one of the most important ways to do this is by socializing your puppy.

Introduce a puppy to all the new things you can -- people, places and other animals. When a puppy isn't exposed to new things, social development stops or even regresses. The goal of socializing is a confident, outgoing dog who isn't shy or aggressive. A good pet, in other words.

"But wait!" you say. "What about disease? My vet told me to keep my puppy at home until his last puppy shot. And you're saying I should go out? Is that safe?"

Well, your veterinarian is right. Your puppy is at risk for contracting diseases from other dogs before his full immunity is in place. This is why you shouldn't go anywhere where dogs you do not know hang out -- parks, dog events or pet stores -- until your veterinarian gives the go-ahead. But that doesn't mean you should leave your puppy at home.

Use common sense. Plan safe outings. And take a puppy class, because the trainers know the risks and work to minimize them by keeping the training area sanitized. And when that last puppy shot is in, at 14 to 16 weeks, pull out all the stops when it comes to socialization.

Why take any chances at all? Because doing so is important. An unsocialized dog, whether fearful or aggressive, is at a high risk for ending up in a shelter, with little chance at being adopted again. Some experts argue that, in the long run, behavior problems kill more dogs than parvovirus does, which puts the importance of proper and safe socialization in perspective.

Dogs are genetically predisposed to have more potential to become part of human society than wolves or coyotes, but it's not always easy for them. When you give your pup an understanding that living with humans means new adventures are not to be feared, you are sharing a wonderful gift.

So socialize, and remember that the world is full of scary things, especially to a little puppy. At times, even the boldest of puppies is paralyzed with uncertainty when faced with something he's never seen before. Your response to his fear is very important.

Don't soothe your pup. Petting him and saying, "It's OK, baby" (or something similar) gives your puppy the idea that being scared is OK and that you're rewarding him for the behavior. Instead, be matter-of-fact and encouraging.

Let him work it out, and when he takes that step forward, praise him for his courage. Then move on, one more step into your life together.

SIDEBAR

A guide for puppy-raising

When my puppy, McKenzie, arrived at the end of April, I knew she was a bright, adorable 8-week-old retriever with tons of potential to be a wonderful companion and dog-sports competitor. And I knew that to achieve that potential, I had work to do. My goal: to introduce her to dozens of new experiences -- sights, sounds, smells -- before the optimum socialization window closed at 16 weeks.

McKenzie had a head start, since she came from a top breeder who worked with my pup and her siblings constantly, exposing them gently to different shapes, textures, temperatures and more. And I got further assistance from The Ultimate Puppy Tool Kit, a boxed collection of materials to help with puppy socialization and training. (The Tool Kit is $20 from pet-supply outlets or direct from Premier Pet Products at ultimatepuppy.com.)

The kit includes six well-written training modules with helpful photo illustrations, as well as handy pocket guides to take with you when you and your puppy venture out. What I found most helpful was a poster that described canine development stages and what I should be doing with my puppy during each. It wasn't new information to me, but being able to see it all in one place -- I put the poster on my refrigerator door -- helped me to keep McKenzie on track.

McKenzie is now approaching 6 months, a happy, outgoing puppy who knows not only basic obedience but also a few cute tricks. She's well on her way to a well-mannered adulthood and perhaps a brilliant dog-sports career.

Q&A

Rabbits get forgotten, too

Q: I read your article on people who give up on Christmas puppies later on. Could you please write something about Easter pets, especially rabbits? I am a rabbit lover. I own a pet rabbit who is part of the family, who lives in the house with my cat and is never caged.

I see so many people who have rabbits and just put them in a small cage outside. It kills me because rabbits can't tolerate the heat, and they need exercise and love. And then there are people keep them in a cage with nothing to stand on but wire. I will do anything I can to stop this cruelty, and I would appreciate your help. -- D.H., e-mail

A: Thank you for helping me to spread the word about the proper care of rabbits. These animals are hugely underappreciated as playful, affectionate and quiet house pets that can be trained to use a litter box and have supervised play time out of their cages.

Last year I visited the world's only shelter dedicated solely to the placement of unwanted rabbits, at the headquarters of the House Rabbit Society in Richmond, Calif. Even for someone who has been writing about animals as long as I have, it was an eye opener to see how friendly and relaxed indoor bunnies could be.

Not long after that, on an assignment at my local SPCA, I fell in love with a rabbit who'd been brought in near death and nursed back to health by the humane officer who'd taken a fancy to the sweet-natured bunny. Turbo joined my family almost a year ago; now, I'm looking for a suitable companion for him.

The best source for information on the care of house rabbits -- and on why rabbits deserve a better life than they can get in a small outdoor hutch -- can be found on the Web site of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org).

Weight-loss concern

Q: I have a 13-year-old spayed female cat who went from 18 pounds in May of last year to 10 pounds last month. We've continued to feed her the same food in the same amounts. The only change is that we live in a two-story condo now instead of a one-story apartment.

Should we be concerned with the drastic weight loss? We've tried to reduce her weight many times with no luck, so this is bit of a shock. -- W.G., e-mail

A: I think you have reason to be concerned about weight loss as dramatic as hers. Since you've said there was no change in the amount of food she eats, I can't imagine she's running up and down those stairs enough to burn off the weight.

Your cat needs to see a veterinarian for a thorough evaluation of her health. My concern would be a problem such a hyperthyroidism, a common illness in older cats where the thyroid gland overproduces this essential hormone. Typically, hyperthyroid cats lose weight and seem to be much more energetic, but the disease has a serious downside, too, and needs to be treated.

The good news is that if it is hyperthyroidism, it can be treated successfully in a couple of different ways. Radiation treatment is considered the best treatment option for a positive outcome, but many owners successfully maintain their cats on daily medication for life. Ask your veterinarian to outline all treatment options so you can decide what's right for your cat.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET RX

Getting vitals can help your cat

Everyone with a cat should know how to take the animal's vital signs. Here's how to perform these important procedures:

-- Temperature: Put a little lubricant on a pet thermometer and gently insert it between 1 and 2 inches into your cat's rectum. The temperature should be between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees, and the thermometer should be almost clean after it's removed. Call your veterinarian if your cat's temperature is below 99 degrees or above 103 degrees, or if you see evidence of mucous, blood, diarrhea, or a black, tarry stool on the thermometer.

-- Heart rate: Feel the your cat's heartbeat with one hand over his left side, behind the front leg. Count the number of beats in 15 seconds and multiply by four to get the heart rate. A normal cat is between 140 and 220 beats per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat's heart rate is too rapid, too slow or irregular.

-- Respiratory rate: Stand back a bit and watch your cat breathe when he is relaxed and standing. Watch the abdomen and chest wall move. Often it is easier to count the respiratory rate when you watch the abdomen move. Count the number of movements in 60 seconds to get the respiratory rate. A normal cat is between 15 and 25 breaths per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat's respiratory rate is too rapid.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Dogpatch inspires canine competitors

Exercise and training are an important part of a high-quality life for your dog, and the two pair nicely in the world of dog sports. No matter the size or breed of your dog, you can find a sport you both will enjoy. Your dog will be happier and healthier, and the bond between you stronger for the time you spend together as a team.

A good place to start researching dog sports is the Dogpatch (www.dogpatch.org). The Web site has information on many kinds of canine competitions, plus links to some of the best Web pages for training information. Are you and your dog couch potatoes? This site may inspire a change!

PET TIP

Get your bird off the junk-food diet

Reputable bird breeders and bird shops sell healthy pets already eating a healthy diet. But some people have birds who are junk-food junkies, or they fall in love with a secondhand bird whose diet needs revising.

With patience, even the most stubborn seed-freak can learn to eat a healthy mix of pellets and fresh "people food," including fruits and vegetables. Here's how:

-- Confirm good health. Before messing with your pet's diet, make sure he's in good health by having your veterinarian go over him thoroughly. Birds are adept at hiding illness, and the stress of a diet change may be too much for a bird who's sick.

-- Combine the old and the new. Mix what your bird has been eating with a high-quality pelleted diet and fresh foods. Feed your bird this mixture out of a single food bowl, too, and never offer enough seeds to fill him up.

-- Gradually reduce seeds. Start with a 50/50 blend of seeds and pellets for two to four weeks, reducing the percentage of seeds slowly over time. Vary the amounts of pellets, fruit, veggies and seeds you offer each day. Be inconsistent in what your bird can expect to see in that food bowl the next day -- it'll keep your bird busy checking for the jackpot of food he likes.

-- Feed new foods in the morning. Birds are the most hungry when they first wake up, so offer pellets and fresh foods exclusively at the start of the day before adding seed to the mix later in the day.

-- Demonstrate good eating habits. Eat healthy foods in front of your bird, and offer him some of what you're having. He'll try most anything you're eating.

Birds can and do starve themselves to death, so make sure you observe your bird eating, check to see that he is passing normal waste matter, and feel the muscle on both sides of his keel bone (which runs right down the middle of his chest) periodically to be sure he's maintaining weight. Talk to your avian veterinarian if you have questions or concerns.

THE SCOOP

Some good pets get overlooked

When it comes to placing pets, shelter workers and rescue volunteers know some animals have two strikes against them from the start. The road to a new home can be a difficult one indeed for big black dogs and big white bunnies.

Large dogs are always harder to place than small ones. Couple the problems of size with the perception of dark-colored dogs as potentially menacing and you have some perfectly wonderful animals who never get a second look in a shelter.

Rabbit rescuers say large white bunnies are likewise overlooked. Seems many people don't consider "ordinary" white rabbits to be as attractive as bunnies with more interesting markings or lop ears.

In both cases, adopters who automatically rule out these animals when looking for a new pet are missing out on the chance to pick up a great companion -- and strike a blow for fairness, besides.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The number of people who travel with their dogs is growing, and so too are the options for pets on the road. From "ruffing it" at campgrounds to enjoying fabulous four-star hotels, the time has never been better to pack your pet and go.

Still, traveling with a dog is no picnic sometimes. Finding lodgings can be difficult, luxurious inside dining is largely sacrificed in favor of eating takeout in the car or a park, and spending hours tripping through quaint shops becomes a thing of the past when a dog is waiting. Traveling with dogs offers some challenges, but nearly all are surmountable with common sense and creativity.

The travel industry wants to help, that's for sure. Countless books cover traveling with dogs, and some travel agents have carved out a niche booking canine-centered vacations. People in the travel industry have learned that many people with dogs are exceptionally grateful for pleasant accommodations, and so return to the places that treat them well year after year. As a result, some entrepreneurs have gone to great lengths to attract dog lovers: You can even find canine camps where people do nothing but share a slice of "dog heaven" with their pet for a week or more at a time.

Is your pup ready to hit the road? As with all other training, ending up with a good car-rider starts with molding correct behavior when your dog is a puppy. No matter how cute or how small, do not allow your pup to ride in your lap, and don't make a fuss over him while you're driving.

Traveling with your dog in a crate is often easier and definitely safer. Depending on the size of your dog and the size and shape of your car, a crate may not be feasible. It should always be considered, though, especially for those dogs who are so active that they distract the driver. Collapsible crates are available for easy storage in the trunk when not in use.

Another safety tool is a doggy seat belt. Some models attach to the seat belt and then to a harness you provide, while others come complete with harness. Also good for keeping a pet in place -- if you have a station wagon, van or SUV -- are widely available metal barriers that fit between the passenger and cargo areas. These barriers aren't considered as safe in the event of a crash as a crate or a safety belt, but they do solve the problem of a dog whose behavior can distract the driver.

If your dog's only exposure to travel is an occasional trip to the veterinarian's, don't be surprised if he comes to hate car trips. Try to build up his enthusiasm by increasing his time in the car and praising him for his good behavior. The first short trips should be to pleasant locations, such as parks.

Because most of the car-sickness problems come from fear, not motion sickness, building up your pet's tolerance for riding in a car is a better long-term cure than anything you could give him. Ask your veterinarian's advice for any medication to help in the short term.

On the road, remember to stop at regular intervals, about as often as you need to for yourself, for your dog to relieve himself and get a drink of fresh water. Always keep your dog on a leash for his own safety. And don't forget that your dog's ID tags are never as important as when you're on the road.

With a few short practice trips and some training, you'll be on the road in no time.

TRAVEL RESOURCES

As often as I turn to the Internet for information, it's a bit of a surprise to me that my most valued resource when it comes to traveling with my dogs is still a book: "Traveling With Your Pet: The AAA Petbook." I've traveled though likely two-thirds of the states and part of Canada with nothing more than this book as my guide to places that accept pets. Even now, you can find a copy stuffed under the seat of my minivan. Now in its seventh edition ($18 from AAA or most booksellers), the book lists almost 13,000 hotels and hundreds of campgrounds where pets are welcome.

More limited in scope but more detailed in the descriptions of individual lodging and pet-friend attractions, the "Dog Lover's Companion Series" of guides tells you not only where dogs are allowed, but also where they're truly welcome. Avalon Travel Publishing is behind these guides, versions of which cover major urban areas (New York, Boston, Chicago, Seattle, Baltimore/Washington, D.C., and the San Francisco Bay Area), and all of California and Florida.

Popular Internet guides to pet-friendly travel recommended to me by readers over the years include PetsWelcome.com and TravelDog.com. The latter is a members-only service, but the $9.95 a year includes discounts on lodging and more.

Q&A

Angry cat may lash out at owner

Q: Whenever my cat looks through the window and sees another cat outside in the yard, she starts this awful-sounding meow and freaks out, running back and forth to different windows and meowing. If you get near her, she jumps up and scratches you. I try to bang on another window so the cat in the back yard will go away.

The last time it happened, my cat followed me upstairs. I was trying to swat her head to get her away from me. She showed her teeth and hissed like she was going to attack me. I was firmly calling her by name and telling her "no," but she had me cornered. I was genuinely afraid.

Finally she went out of the room and downstairs, and a few minutes later she was back to normal. It's so weird because she is so docile and sweet most of the time.

I figure this behavior is probably because she was born in the wild, but I want to see if there is anything I can do. My friend thought there might be some kind of medication I could give her. I hate to get rid of her because we are really attached to her.  People who have been around her comment how gentle and loving she is. -- J.C., e-mail

A: Your cat's behavior likely has nothing to do with being born feral. You have a classic case of what behaviorists call "redirected aggression," and it's not in the least uncommon.

Cats are territorial animals, and the sight of another cat (even through a window) can trigger an aggressive response. The cat who feels "invaded" will work into a state of trancelike anger. The animal becomes frustrated that he cannot get to the invader, and typically will lash out at any person or other pet unlucky enough to be in proximity. Sometimes they'll take things further, as your cat did.

The usual advice in such cases is to work to remove the triggers for such behaviors. If possible, figure out a way to keep other cats out of your yard, and block your cat's view to the area where the cats show up. When your cat's in an aggressive state, do not pick her up or touch her, but try to "shoo" her into a darkened room to chill out. Throwing a blanket over her will also end the confrontation in a pinch.

Most cases of redirected aggression aren't as dramatic as your cat's. They can usually be dealt with just by giving the cat a wide berth until it's apparent (from the cat's relaxed body language) that the aggressive state is over. Given the high level of arousal your cat displayed and your fear of a repeat incident, I'd recommend asking your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist who can set up a program of medication and modification that will help defuse the feline time bomb in your home.

Calico or tortoiseshell?

Q: We just adopted a cat from the humane society. She is a combination of solid gold, black and white. The shelter described her as a tortie, then changed it to calico. What is the difference between a calico and a tortie, or are they the same? Do the terms calico and tortie refer to a breed or a color? -- E.P., e-mail

A: Calico and tortoiseshell (or tortie) refer to a pattern of markings, not to a breed. The link between them is orange fur, which can run from a very pale tan to a bright, rich rust. The two marking patterns are genetically similar, but differ in the way they are expressed on the cat. On calico cats, the orange, black and white colors are distinct patches; on tortoiseshells, the colors are swirled together. Because you describe the patches as solid, your cat is a calico.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Helping others may ease grief

Earlier this month, I had to make the heartbreaking decision to end the life of my 11-year-old dog, Benjamin, who was dying of malignant histiocytosis, a cancer common in retrievers. Because his death was long anticipated -- he was diagnosed last January -- I had time to research the disease, arrange treatment with his quality of life the uppermost priority, and do something few pet lovers even realize is possible: contribute parts of that hated tumor to canine cancer research.

After his death, Ben's cancerous tissues were donated to three studies trying to determine a genetic marker for the disease and to figure out the best way to fight it in other dogs after diagnosis. The studies were funded by the national clubs for the breeds in which this particular cancer is common. Much similar research is funded by the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation. The foundation has funded millions of dollars in veterinary research to support more than 270 studies that help all dogs and sometimes people as well.

Coordinating Ben's posthumous contribution to the future of all dogs added greatly to my burden before his death, I freely and sadly admit. After his death, however, I felt nothing but satisfaction in thinking that this beloved dog who'd been the epitome of kindness and generosity his entire life was able to make one final gift to help others.

More information is on the foundation's Web site (www.akcchf.org). Contributions of the more traditional variety -- monetary, that is -- can be arranged on the site.

PET Rx

Cats, dogs pose risk to pet birds

One of the biggest dangers to any pet bird is other pets in the house -- primarily dogs and cats.

Although some dogs and cats seem to get along wonderfully with birds, don't ever discount the power of instinct. Never leave birds uncaged and unattended with dogs and cats.

If your bird is attacked by any animal, talk to your veterinarian immediately, even if everything seems fine. Internal damage may otherwise remain undetected past the point of treatment, and the prompt dosing of antibiotics may be necessary to ward off a potentially life-threatening infection. Your bird need not even be bitten -- having cat saliva on his feathers may be enough to introduce an infection that could kill him.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Feline fur length a matter of personal preference

Let's get one thing straight up front: Almost all cats shed. The "almost" is there to apply to those very few cats who haven't any fur -- such as those of the Sphynx breed, who still manage to carry a little down that can rub off on your clothes. Once you accept the shedding, though, you'll find there's a lot of variety when it comes to cat fur.

If you count out the more exotic coats of some purebred cats, though, you're mostly looking at the difference between choosing shorthaired and longhaired cats.

Some people like the sleek look and feel of a shorthaired cat; others adore the flowing softness of the longhairs. Do you prefer to rub your hand down a sleek pelt or bury your fingers in a longhaired one?

What about shedding? The difference in shedding levels between short- and longhaired cats can be dramatic, especially in cats that are prized for the volume of coat, such as with Persians. Are you prepared to live with a lint roller in your bathroom, your glove box and your desk drawer at work? Would you be appalled to have a friend pick one of those glorious 4-inch pieces of fur off the back of your sweater? If you're on the low end of fur tolerance, you'd better stick with shorthaired cats.

You also need to consider the extra care that goes into all but the sleekest of coats. If your longhaired cat's mats get out of control, you'll need to seek out a professional groomer, and that costs money. You'll spend even more money if you elect, as some cat owners do, to have your longhaired cat professionally groomed on a regular basis.

THE SCOOP

Canaries come in countless varieties

Well-known for vocal talents and vibrant color, the canary is one of the most popular pet birds in the world. Canaries hail originally from the Canary Islands, which were named not for their most famous residents, but for the dogs the Romans found there ("canis" being Latin for "dog").

Canaries are actually finches, and wild canaries come in green and yellow, not just the bright yellow most people associate with these pets.

But even domesticated canaries come in many colors and varieties, thanks to centuries of selective breeding. Canaries can be sleek or plump in body type, smooth or puffy when it comes to feathers, with colors from yellow to bright orange to greens and browns. If you want a singer, though, make sure your new bird is a male. Female canaries don't sing.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600