The number of people who travel with their dogs is growing, and so too are the options for pets on the road. From "ruffing it" at campgrounds to enjoying fabulous four-star hotels, the time has never been better to pack your pet and go.

Still, traveling with a dog is no picnic sometimes. Finding lodgings can be difficult, luxurious inside dining is largely sacrificed in favor of eating takeout in the car or a park, and spending hours tripping through quaint shops becomes a thing of the past when a dog is waiting. Traveling with dogs offers some challenges, but nearly all are surmountable with common sense and creativity.

The travel industry wants to help, that's for sure. Countless books cover traveling with dogs, and some travel agents have carved out a niche booking canine-centered vacations. People in the travel industry have learned that many people with dogs are exceptionally grateful for pleasant accommodations, and so return to the places that treat them well year after year. As a result, some entrepreneurs have gone to great lengths to attract dog lovers: You can even find canine camps where people do nothing but share a slice of "dog heaven" with their pet for a week or more at a time.

Is your pup ready to hit the road? As with all other training, ending up with a good car-rider starts with molding correct behavior when your dog is a puppy. No matter how cute or how small, do not allow your pup to ride in your lap, and don't make a fuss over him while you're driving.

Traveling with your dog in a crate is often easier and definitely safer. Depending on the size of your dog and the size and shape of your car, a crate may not be feasible. It should always be considered, though, especially for those dogs who are so active that they distract the driver. Collapsible crates are available for easy storage in the trunk when not in use.

Another safety tool is a doggy seat belt. Some models attach to the seat belt and then to a harness you provide, while others come complete with harness. Also good for keeping a pet in place -- if you have a station wagon, van or SUV -- are widely available metal barriers that fit between the passenger and cargo areas. These barriers aren't considered as safe in the event of a crash as a crate or a safety belt, but they do solve the problem of a dog whose behavior can distract the driver.

If your dog's only exposure to travel is an occasional trip to the veterinarian's, don't be surprised if he comes to hate car trips. Try to build up his enthusiasm by increasing his time in the car and praising him for his good behavior. The first short trips should be to pleasant locations, such as parks.

Because most of the car-sickness problems come from fear, not motion sickness, building up your pet's tolerance for riding in a car is a better long-term cure than anything you could give him. Ask your veterinarian's advice for any medication to help in the short term.

On the road, remember to stop at regular intervals, about as often as you need to for yourself, for your dog to relieve himself and get a drink of fresh water. Always keep your dog on a leash for his own safety. And don't forget that your dog's ID tags are never as important as when you're on the road.

With a few short practice trips and some training, you'll be on the road in no time.

TRAVEL RESOURCES

As often as I turn to the Internet for information, it's a bit of a surprise to me that my most valued resource when it comes to traveling with my dogs is still a book: "Traveling With Your Pet: The AAA Petbook." I've traveled though likely two-thirds of the states and part of Canada with nothing more than this book as my guide to places that accept pets. Even now, you can find a copy stuffed under the seat of my minivan. Now in its seventh edition ($18 from AAA or most booksellers), the book lists almost 13,000 hotels and hundreds of campgrounds where pets are welcome.

More limited in scope but more detailed in the descriptions of individual lodging and pet-friend attractions, the "Dog Lover's Companion Series" of guides tells you not only where dogs are allowed, but also where they're truly welcome. Avalon Travel Publishing is behind these guides, versions of which cover major urban areas (New York, Boston, Chicago, Seattle, Baltimore/Washington, D.C., and the San Francisco Bay Area), and all of California and Florida.

Popular Internet guides to pet-friendly travel recommended to me by readers over the years include PetsWelcome.com and TravelDog.com. The latter is a members-only service, but the $9.95 a year includes discounts on lodging and more.

Q&A

Angry cat may lash out at owner

Q: Whenever my cat looks through the window and sees another cat outside in the yard, she starts this awful-sounding meow and freaks out, running back and forth to different windows and meowing. If you get near her, she jumps up and scratches you. I try to bang on another window so the cat in the back yard will go away.

The last time it happened, my cat followed me upstairs. I was trying to swat her head to get her away from me. She showed her teeth and hissed like she was going to attack me. I was firmly calling her by name and telling her "no," but she had me cornered. I was genuinely afraid.

Finally she went out of the room and downstairs, and a few minutes later she was back to normal. It's so weird because she is so docile and sweet most of the time.

I figure this behavior is probably because she was born in the wild, but I want to see if there is anything I can do. My friend thought there might be some kind of medication I could give her. I hate to get rid of her because we are really attached to her.  People who have been around her comment how gentle and loving she is. -- J.C., e-mail

A: Your cat's behavior likely has nothing to do with being born feral. You have a classic case of what behaviorists call "redirected aggression," and it's not in the least uncommon.

Cats are territorial animals, and the sight of another cat (even through a window) can trigger an aggressive response. The cat who feels "invaded" will work into a state of trancelike anger. The animal becomes frustrated that he cannot get to the invader, and typically will lash out at any person or other pet unlucky enough to be in proximity. Sometimes they'll take things further, as your cat did.

The usual advice in such cases is to work to remove the triggers for such behaviors. If possible, figure out a way to keep other cats out of your yard, and block your cat's view to the area where the cats show up. When your cat's in an aggressive state, do not pick her up or touch her, but try to "shoo" her into a darkened room to chill out. Throwing a blanket over her will also end the confrontation in a pinch.

Most cases of redirected aggression aren't as dramatic as your cat's. They can usually be dealt with just by giving the cat a wide berth until it's apparent (from the cat's relaxed body language) that the aggressive state is over. Given the high level of arousal your cat displayed and your fear of a repeat incident, I'd recommend asking your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist who can set up a program of medication and modification that will help defuse the feline time bomb in your home.

Calico or tortoiseshell?

Q: We just adopted a cat from the humane society. She is a combination of solid gold, black and white. The shelter described her as a tortie, then changed it to calico. What is the difference between a calico and a tortie, or are they the same? Do the terms calico and tortie refer to a breed or a color? -- E.P., e-mail

A: Calico and tortoiseshell (or tortie) refer to a pattern of markings, not to a breed. The link between them is orange fur, which can run from a very pale tan to a bright, rich rust. The two marking patterns are genetically similar, but differ in the way they are expressed on the cat. On calico cats, the orange, black and white colors are distinct patches; on tortoiseshells, the colors are swirled together. Because you describe the patches as solid, your cat is a calico.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Helping others may ease grief

Earlier this month, I had to make the heartbreaking decision to end the life of my 11-year-old dog, Benjamin, who was dying of malignant histiocytosis, a cancer common in retrievers. Because his death was long anticipated -- he was diagnosed last January -- I had time to research the disease, arrange treatment with his quality of life the uppermost priority, and do something few pet lovers even realize is possible: contribute parts of that hated tumor to canine cancer research.

After his death, Ben's cancerous tissues were donated to three studies trying to determine a genetic marker for the disease and to figure out the best way to fight it in other dogs after diagnosis. The studies were funded by the national clubs for the breeds in which this particular cancer is common. Much similar research is funded by the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation. The foundation has funded millions of dollars in veterinary research to support more than 270 studies that help all dogs and sometimes people as well.

Coordinating Ben's posthumous contribution to the future of all dogs added greatly to my burden before his death, I freely and sadly admit. After his death, however, I felt nothing but satisfaction in thinking that this beloved dog who'd been the epitome of kindness and generosity his entire life was able to make one final gift to help others.

More information is on the foundation's Web site (www.akcchf.org). Contributions of the more traditional variety -- monetary, that is -- can be arranged on the site.

PET Rx

Cats, dogs pose risk to pet birds

One of the biggest dangers to any pet bird is other pets in the house -- primarily dogs and cats.

Although some dogs and cats seem to get along wonderfully with birds, don't ever discount the power of instinct. Never leave birds uncaged and unattended with dogs and cats.

If your bird is attacked by any animal, talk to your veterinarian immediately, even if everything seems fine. Internal damage may otherwise remain undetected past the point of treatment, and the prompt dosing of antibiotics may be necessary to ward off a potentially life-threatening infection. Your bird need not even be bitten -- having cat saliva on his feathers may be enough to introduce an infection that could kill him.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Feline fur length a matter of personal preference

Let's get one thing straight up front: Almost all cats shed. The "almost" is there to apply to those very few cats who haven't any fur -- such as those of the Sphynx breed, who still manage to carry a little down that can rub off on your clothes. Once you accept the shedding, though, you'll find there's a lot of variety when it comes to cat fur.

If you count out the more exotic coats of some purebred cats, though, you're mostly looking at the difference between choosing shorthaired and longhaired cats.

Some people like the sleek look and feel of a shorthaired cat; others adore the flowing softness of the longhairs. Do you prefer to rub your hand down a sleek pelt or bury your fingers in a longhaired one?

What about shedding? The difference in shedding levels between short- and longhaired cats can be dramatic, especially in cats that are prized for the volume of coat, such as with Persians. Are you prepared to live with a lint roller in your bathroom, your glove box and your desk drawer at work? Would you be appalled to have a friend pick one of those glorious 4-inch pieces of fur off the back of your sweater? If you're on the low end of fur tolerance, you'd better stick with shorthaired cats.

You also need to consider the extra care that goes into all but the sleekest of coats. If your longhaired cat's mats get out of control, you'll need to seek out a professional groomer, and that costs money. You'll spend even more money if you elect, as some cat owners do, to have your longhaired cat professionally groomed on a regular basis.

THE SCOOP

Canaries come in countless varieties

Well-known for vocal talents and vibrant color, the canary is one of the most popular pet birds in the world. Canaries hail originally from the Canary Islands, which were named not for their most famous residents, but for the dogs the Romans found there ("canis" being Latin for "dog").

Canaries are actually finches, and wild canaries come in green and yellow, not just the bright yellow most people associate with these pets.

But even domesticated canaries come in many colors and varieties, thanks to centuries of selective breeding. Canaries can be sleek or plump in body type, smooth or puffy when it comes to feathers, with colors from yellow to bright orange to greens and browns. If you want a singer, though, make sure your new bird is a male. Female canaries don't sing.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The cat has been worshipped as a god, vilified as a demon and is treasured as a companion today. Despite all that change, the cat is not much altered in form or temperament. Cats are pretty much the same as when they first chose to associate with our kind.

Even though cats have shared our lives for countless generations, there's still a lot we don't know about them, and a lot we think we know about them that's wrong. Here are a few enduring myths and the facts to counter them.

-- Cats have nine lives.

Cats are survivors, no doubt of that. More so than any other domesticated animal, they keep their wildness about them, slipping back and forth across the line that separates the feral from the tame.

Finely tuned to the slightest hint of danger, the cat can run fast, climb faster and, if cornered by an adversary, defend himself with a formidable array of claws and teeth. With all this, is it any wonder people came to believe that the cat had not one chance at life but nine?

The truth is that cats are more fragile than we think. Cats as a species have proven resilient, but as individuals, they are every bit as mortal as we are -- and very vulnerable in the world.

Cats have but one life, and they need our help to make that life a long, healthy and happy one.

-- Cats purr whenever they're happy.

Cats purr if they're happy but also often when they're not. They purr while giving birth, and they may even purr while dying. British zoologist Desmond Morris has said that purring is "a sign of friendship -- either when (the cat) is contented with a friend or when it is in need of friendship -- as with a cat in trouble."

Although the experts are pretty clear on why cats purr, they're not yet certain as to how. The most common explanation has the sweet sound originating in the voice box, with what are called the "vestibular folds," or "false vocal cords." The passing of air across these structures is thought to produce the purr all cat lovers adore.

-- Cats are dangerous around babies.

It doesn't matter what well-meaning relatives say. You don't need to find a new home for your pet if you become pregnant. Cats do not maliciously smother or suck the breath out of babies, as the myths hold. While common sense dictates that no pet be left unattended with an infant, you can rest assured that your cat doesn't present any special danger to your child.

A bigger concern involves not infants but pregnancy and the risk of toxoplasmosis. Miscarriages and birth defects can result when pregnant women are exposed to cat feces containing the organisms that cause this disease.

Because of this risk, someone else should take over the maintenance of the litter box for the duration of the pregnancy and even before the pregnancy in the case of couples who're attempting to conceive. (Litter boxes aren't the only way to contract the disease, so talk to your doctor about additional precautions.)

-- A well-fed cat doesn't hunt.

Hunting behavior in cats is very controversial, especially if the prey is songbirds or endangered rodent species. Some cats hunt, some cats don't, and it has more to do with what a cat learned from his mother than from the rumbling in his belly. Plenty of well-fed cats are very active hunters.

Putting a bell on your cat has little effect on his ability to hunt; turning him into an indoor-dweller is the only way to protect wildlife from your cat -- and protect you from his thoughtful "gifts" of dead mice and birds.

-- Black cats are bad luck.

Black may be an unlucky color all right -- for a cat. Black cats have been associated with the forces of evil for hundreds of years, and humane societies warn that this myth has cost many of them their lives. Black cats have been the target of those who want to practice rituals that include the torture and killing of animals.

Black may be an unfortunate color for another reason: visibility. Thousands of cats are killed by cars every year, and the difference between a hit or a near-miss may be the driver's ability to see the cat darting across the road before him. At night, patches of light-colored fur are a distinct advantage to a kitty.

Q&A

Avoiding the vet not a good idea

Q: I currently have two cats, both 6 years old. I have always taken my cats to the veterinarian for everything necessary to maintain their health.

A few years ago I took a beloved cat to have his teeth cleaned. He came out of anesthesia very badly, and within a week he was dead. Since then, I have not taken my other two cats back to the veterinarian.

I decided that they were safer staying away from procedures and vaccines. One of my cats actually gets lethargic and sick after every vaccination. It has been more than three years since they have been vaccinated. They are indoor/outdoor cats. One is a hunter; the other is not.

I have read that cats do not need annual vaccinations. How often do cats need vaccinations, and how do I handle the situation with the cat who gets ill every time she is vaccinated? -- E.P., via e-mail

A: There are two issues here, so let's break them up.

First, despite your tragic loss, your cats need regular veterinary attention. Would you avoid your own physician because someone once died in a doctor's care? Of course not! I am not sure what happened with your cat, if the death was something that could not have been prevented or if the veterinarian could have done something differently.

Did you discuss what happened to your cat with your veterinarian? Were you satisfied with the explanation? If not, it's perfectly reasonable to change veterinarians, but don't give up on veterinary care entirely.

Now, about vaccines. It's true the trend is toward less-frequent vaccinations, and vaccination protocols tailored to individual cats. Indoor cats, for example, may need to be inoculated against fewer diseases than cats with access to the outdoors. Cats who become ill after vaccination may have boosters infrequently or not at all.

The American Association of Feline Practitioners has published guidelines on vaccinations that every cat lover should review. The document can be found on the Internet at www.aafponline.org (click on "resources"). The 29-page document discusses vaccine risks and benefits, and gives guidelines on how to best balance one with the other.

Run, poodle, run

Q: I have a 3-year-old toy poodle who is wonderful in every aspect except one -- once the front door opens, he bounds out and goes running. It's almost a game for him, but it's exasperating for us.

I know you have said in the past not to get angry with him when we finally catch up with him, and we do not. We enrolled him in a training class about a year ago, but he continues to run. Any suggestions? -- T.P., via e-mail

A: You're right about one thing: You should never yell at or otherwise punish a dog for not coming when called. That's the surest way I know to make sure he runs even farther and faster the next time he gets out. Wouldn't you do the same if you knew you'd be punished when caught?

In the short term, a loose dog is a crisis -- he could get hit by a car. As you've discovered, if you chase him, he will run. So don't. Instead, try to run in the opposite direction and see if he will chase you instead. Or squat down, open your arms and call sweetly. The idea is to be as appealing as possible to lure your dog in.

Also, instead of "come" -- which your dog doesn't know -- try "sit." We tend to ask our dogs to sit often, and you might be able to stop the free flight by asking for a sit.

These are emergency measures, though, and are no substitute for training him to respond to a reliable recall. Go back to your trainer, or ask your veterinarian for a referral. Instead of joining a group class, arrange for a few private lessons on this one problem area.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Summer swims good clean fun

Summer is the perfect time of year to find a clean, calm body of water and let your dog jump in. For dogs who enjoy it, swimming is great exercise on warm days.

Some precautions do apply, however. First, make sure your dog is capable of swimming. Top-heavy breeds like the bulldog are more likely to sink than swim and should be kept away from any water deeper than what he finds in his dish.

Even if your dog is physically capable of swimming, don't make him sink or swim the first time he's introduced to water. You'll scare the dickens out of your dog, and you may get badly scratched up yourself. Learning by example is probably the best way to encourage swimming: A dog who sees another dog swim is more likely to give it a try. Alternately, you can lure your dog into the water by wading out yourself, or with a game of fetch.

Dogs who love swimming don't know always know when they're in danger, so be careful on their behalf. Old or unfit dogs should be given limited time in the water, and even the best swimmers should be kept away from fast, cold rivers, ocean riptides and other hazards.

Don't forget to bring drinking water. Pollution and parasites make natural bodies of water an unhealthy source of drinking water for you and your dog. Finally, be sure to rinse your dog off with clean water afterward.

ON THE WEB

Online magazine for parrot fans

I don't know how I managed to miss the Parrot Chronicles (ParrotChronicles.com) for so long. This online magazine has hundreds of great articles on choosing and caring for parrots, along with first-person pieces that share the joy and the challenges of living with these intelligent, demanding pets.

The site has short profiles of many parrot species, with pros and cons that should give prospective owners an idea of what they're getting into. Parrot Chronicles also doesn't shy away from controversy, with opinion pieces and letters to the editors on some hot avian topics.

Training tips, health information and product reviews round out the collection. Great site!

BREED TYPE

Yorkies maintain their feisty nature

Most toy breeds were not developed for any work other than sitting on your lap. The Yorkshire terrier, however, started out as a real working terrier, and he is not likely to let you forget it.

Today Yorkies are not kept as ratters but as companions, a job at which they excel. They are smart, active, affectionate and possessed of much more than their share of charm. Even those who prefer larger dogs have been known to lose their heart to a Yorkshire terrier.

Yorkies may be a bit hard to house-train, and they require training to prevent barking from being a problem. Their coats require daily care. They can be kept cut short and scruffy or long and silky, according to the owner's preference, but they cannot be left ungroomed.

This cheerful little dog is plagued with two serious problems -- rampant irresponsible breeding and major health issues. Be sure to obtain your Yorkie from a breeder who belongs to the Yorkshire Terrier Club of America, which has an exceptionally strict code of ethics and conduct for its members, or from a reputable rescue organization. Known health problems of the breed include luxating patellas (a kneecap deformity), liver shunts and dental disease.

A word of warning: Beware of breeders advertising "teacup" or otherwise smaller-than-normal Yorkies, or charging more for Yorkies in unusual colors. Very small Yorkies have more health problems than normal-sized toy dogs.

The Yorkshire Terrier Club of America does not allow its members to advertise their dogs using the words "teacup," "doll-faced" or similar terminology, nor does it recognize any markings other than the standard blue and gold, black and gold, blue and tan, or black and tan. Don't be taken in by a marketing ploy. -- Christie Keith, doghobbyist.com

PET RX

Don't leave dog in car

You'd think everyone would know this by now, but every year some people learn the hard way. So take note: Dogs should never be left in a car when it's warm.

Note the word "warm," not "hot." That's because even on a mildly warm day the temperature in a car left in the sun can grow hot enough to kill your dog within the time it takes to run an errand or two.

And don't leave your dog in the car with the air conditioner running. Recently, a police dog died when the air conditioner in the squad car went out. There's also a chance that your running car will provide a tempting target for thieves, dog or no dog.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

July is the reason I don't recommend puppies in December.

The Christmas puppy is one of those ideas that seem so perfect, but the months that follow -- with cold, short days -- are the worst for raising and training a puppy. By the time summer arrives, too many of those Christmas puppies are untrained and too often on their way to being unwanted. The "puppy cutes" are long gone, and the boisterousness of adolescence is at its peak.

I hear every day from people who are ready to give up. "If we can't get him to stop (jumping up, disobeying, digging, barking, chewing), we have to get rid of him," they say.

You "have to"? What, someone's holding a gun to your head?

The next sentences in these letters almost certainly include a recommendation of the kind of home that would be "perfect" for the dog. One with "more space" or "more time." As if homes are plentiful for former Christmas puppies with energy to burn and absolutely no training or manners. Forget it! You're the one who took responsibility for your pup, and you're the one who'll have to fix the problems you let develop.

Yes, these dogs are fixable, and if you have one of them, you must try. Really, really try. You owe it to the pup you made such a fuss over a few short months ago to be patient and to work to make it right.

The key to getting past the rough spots: training and exercise.

If you've avoided an obedience class so far -- and you really shouldn't have, since puppy classes start for dogs as young as 12 weeks -- sign up for one now. Training may seem to be about control, but it's more about communication. When you train your dog, you're providing a common language, a way to form a strong and healthy bond between the two of you.

Training is for life. Your dog needs to keep learning and keep using all he has been taught. That doesn't mean you have to make formal obedience sessions a permanent part of your life. Instead, think of creative ways to expand your dog's working vocabulary and to integrate the skills he has learned into your life together. Two minutes here, sitting and staying for his supper dish, one minute there, coming from one end of the house to another when you call -- it all adds up.

So get going, and get individual help if you need it. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a training class, and don't be shy about scheduling a concentrated, private session with a trainer or behaviorist to work on a particular area of concern. Having a trainer pinpoint what you're doing wrong can save you plenty of time, and it's a cheaper than replacing a chewed couch.

Along with the training, start exercising your dog. Probably one of the biggest contributors to behavior problems is that dogs don't get nearly enough exercise. Your dog needs 30 to 40 minutes of aerobic exercise that gets his heart pumping, and he needs it three or more times a week to stay fit, burn excess energy and alleviate the stresses of modern life, such as staying alone for hours every day.

Exercise is especially important for dogs with a working heritage such as sporting or herding breeds. They need to move! Playing fetch, jogging, boisterous play with other dogs -- whatever it takes and whatever you can, get exercise into your dog's life. Nothing calms down a "hyper" dog like regular exercise.

If you're having problems taking your dog out on leash for exercise, invest in a front-clip harness. These fairly new contraptions make it easy to control a dog's pulling so you can start walking again. It's good for you both!

Get training, get help, get exercise, but above all, get going. Sure, it takes time and effort to raise a dog right, but the payoff is grand. Remember the dog you imagined your Christmas puppy becoming? He's in there still. And it's up to you to turn that dream into reality. Your dog is counting on you.

Q&A

Haircut fine for summer

Q: Is it safe to shave or short-crop my 2-year-old sheltie? If not, please recommend heat relief I can provide for my pup. I walk him during non-peak hot periods during the day, keep him in air conditioning, keep his water cool and thin his coat with thinning shears. -- P.H.

A: Yes, it's safe to cut your dog's hair short for the summer, but don't leave him vulnerable to sunburn with too close a shave. It's not really necessary to cut off the coat of longhaired dogs in most cases, however, and certainly not in yours, where your dog gets the benefit of air conditioning when it's hot.

Not to mention: The longhaired Lassie look of the Shetland sheepdog is one of the breed's most appealing features. Why would you want to mess with that?

Without shaving or cutting short your dog's coat, you can remove some of the weight for summer. Keep the coat regularly combed and brushed, paying special attention to the undercoat. In double-coated breeds like the Sheltie, the soft undercoat can mat into a mess that looks and feels very much like felt. It's essential to strip out the undercoat with frequent brushing -- or regular trips to a professional groomer -- to keep this mat from forming.

If you go to a groomer, consider having just the underside of your dog -- mid-chest, belly and the insides of the back legs -- shaved to provide a large expanse of skin access to the air while keeping the appearance of a lovely long coat intact.

If your dog's coat is heavily matted, I would recommend not worrying about appearance and having a groomer cut the fur short all over. That way, your dog can be comfortable -- matted fur hurts! -- while you get in the habit of regular brushing so the situation never gets that bad again.

I have two dogs who get a special summer cut. My Sheltie, Drew, gets the belly shave I described above along with a leg-feather trim not only to stay cooler, but also to keep from picking up burrs. And my retriever, Heather, has a thick, mid-length wavy coat that holds brackish water and burrs when I take her out in rough country. She gets a close-crop trim to make it harder for burrs to stick and easier for her to be sprayed clean after swimming.

Weighty question

Q: We have a 2-year-old Lab/German shepherd mix. The other day my husband and I wanted to see how much she weighed, so we got out the scale. My husband weighed himself and then picked up our heavy dog.

Unfortunately the scale would not weigh them both. We tried three times. After that, our dog would not come near us. When we called her she would hide in the corner or run outside. What's up with that? -- J.B.

A: I'm guessing she found the experience of being picked up frightening, and she didn't want to go through it again.

Have her weighed on the walk-on scale at your veterinarian's next time she's in there. In the meantime, if she looks in good weight -- you can feel but not see her ribs, and she has a tucked up "waist" -- I wouldn't worry about what she actually weighs.

A reminder

Q: Could you remind people who insist on tethering their pets in the back of their pickups that the bed gets very hot? They should put down a blanket to keep their pets from burning their pads. -- J.H.

A: Consider people reminded.

Riding in the back of a pickup truck isn't an ideal way to travel for any dog, even if securely tethered. If the back of a truck is the only option, a dog would be safer and more comfortable traveling in an airline crate that has been secured to the bed.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

What to do when pet crisis hits

The days around the Fourth of July are busy ones for veterinary emergency clinics. Couple the everyday dangers of summer -- overheating and accidental poisoning among them -- with the problems of pets terrified by fireworks, and it's no surprise a lot of animals end up in trouble at this time of year.

Here's what to remember when faced with a sick or injured pet:

-- Protect and secure your pet -- and yourself. Move your pet to a safe, comfortable location out of immediate danger. Since an animal in terror or pain may lash out, be sure to protect yourself from a nasty bite by muzzling or otherwise restraining your pet. A ready-made muzzle should be part of a basic pet first-aid kit, but in a pinch you can use soft rope or even pantyhose. (Secure with a loop around the muzzle and tie off behind the head.)

-- Scan the area for evidence that might help with a diagnosis. Empty medicine bottles, chewed materials, product wrappers and even an open craft basket can help your veterinarian know what's wrong and how to treat it. If you know what your pet got into, plan to take the container with you to the veterinary office.

-- Check your pet's vital signs such as temperature, respiratory and heart rate, blood flow to the gums, and hydration. Note the results. Your veterinarian will use your initial observations to help determine the seriousness of the situation.

-- Call the veterinary office. Stay calm and be prepared to state the situation succinctly along with your observations as to your pet's current state. Then follow the clinic's advice when it comes to what needs to happen next. If you need to transport your pet to the veterinarian's, do so in a secure carrier to prevent further injury.

The time to find a phone number for after-hours veterinary care is before you have an emergency. Ask your regular veterinarian what arrangements have been made for emergency care, and be sure to write down the phone number where you can find it in a hurry -- on the front of the refrigerator is ideal.

Likewise, don't wait to become familiar with such basic first-aid as getting vital signs. Learn how and what to check for before you need to with the aid of any basic first-aid book. Or ask your veterinarian to show you on your next healthy-pet visit.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Memories of pets find loving home

After an animal companion dies, it's important to find the support of people who understand how hard such a loss can be. The growth of pet-loss support sites on the Internet is testimony to how much people need to tell others about the animal they've just lost.

On Pet Memories Online (petmemories.com), animal lovers are encouraged to create a memories page for a lost pet, complete with an image and testimonial. The pages are sometimes difficult to read for the raw emotion they reflect, but each page no doubt helped someone work through the grief.

The site also has some basic information about grieving and links to other resources. -- G.S.

THE SCOOP

Marking helps to make a cat comfortable

The correct "smell environment" is so important to your cat that he engages in various marking behaviors to make everything in his world smell like him. You might not even be aware of some of these behaviors, such as:

-- Rubbing. Cats have sebaceous glands at the base of their hair follicles that produce sebum, a substance that serves two purposes: coating the fur for protection and depositing scent on objects in the cat's environment. These glands are most numerous around your cat's mouth; on the chin, lips, upper eyelids and the top of the tail base; and near the anus and sex organs. If a cat rubs with his head (a behavior known as "bunting"), or any of these parts of his body, he leaves his scent behind.

-- Urine-spraying. Although few humans mind being scent-marked as our cats rub against us lovingly, we do not approve of another of the cat's territorial behaviors: urine-spraying. Although any cat may spray, the behavior is most common in unneutered males. These cats feel especially driven to mark their territory with their pungent urine by backing up to objects (or even people) and letting fly with a spray.

-- Clawing. When cats dig their claws into a cat tree or piece of furniture, they're not being intentionally destructive. Scratching keeps claws in shape and provides the opportunity for a good, healthy stretch. Scratching is also a way to deposit scent. As a cat claws, the pads of his feet come in contact with what he's digging into, and that motion leaves behind scent from the sweat glands in his feet.

-- Grooming. Your cat's attention to having "every hair in its place" has many reasons, but one of them is scent-marking. Your cat's tongue covers every inch of his body with his own saliva, which carries his scent. Cats often groom themselves right after being petted to cover your scent with theirs.

PET TIP

No trim needed for cat's whiskers

Most cats have 24 whiskers, divided on either side of the nose and arranged in four horizontal rows. The top rows and bottom rows can move independently of each other, and each whisker -- they're technically called "vibrissae" -- is imbedded deeper than normal hairs to enhance its sensory input.

Even though whiskers are important to cats -- your pet may become disoriented if they're removed, which is why you never should cut them -- there is no correlation between the length of whiskers and the width of a cat. If your cat gets fat, his whiskers don't grow to match. A portly cat who comes to count on his whiskers to gauge the width of a hole may well find himself stuck.

Feline fact: The kinky-coated Cornish Rex and Devon Rex breeds have curly whiskers as well.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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