The cat has been worshipped as a god, vilified as a demon and is treasured as a companion today. Despite all that change, the cat is not much altered in form or temperament. Cats are pretty much the same as when they first chose to associate with our kind.

Even though cats have shared our lives for countless generations, there's still a lot we don't know about them, and a lot we think we know about them that's wrong. Here are a few enduring myths and the facts to counter them.

-- Cats have nine lives.

Cats are survivors, no doubt of that. More so than any other domesticated animal, they keep their wildness about them, slipping back and forth across the line that separates the feral from the tame.

Finely tuned to the slightest hint of danger, the cat can run fast, climb faster and, if cornered by an adversary, defend himself with a formidable array of claws and teeth. With all this, is it any wonder people came to believe that the cat had not one chance at life but nine?

The truth is that cats are more fragile than we think. Cats as a species have proven resilient, but as individuals, they are every bit as mortal as we are -- and very vulnerable in the world.

Cats have but one life, and they need our help to make that life a long, healthy and happy one.

-- Cats purr whenever they're happy.

Cats purr if they're happy but also often when they're not. They purr while giving birth, and they may even purr while dying. British zoologist Desmond Morris has said that purring is "a sign of friendship -- either when (the cat) is contented with a friend or when it is in need of friendship -- as with a cat in trouble."

Although the experts are pretty clear on why cats purr, they're not yet certain as to how. The most common explanation has the sweet sound originating in the voice box, with what are called the "vestibular folds," or "false vocal cords." The passing of air across these structures is thought to produce the purr all cat lovers adore.

-- Cats are dangerous around babies.

It doesn't matter what well-meaning relatives say. You don't need to find a new home for your pet if you become pregnant. Cats do not maliciously smother or suck the breath out of babies, as the myths hold. While common sense dictates that no pet be left unattended with an infant, you can rest assured that your cat doesn't present any special danger to your child.

A bigger concern involves not infants but pregnancy and the risk of toxoplasmosis. Miscarriages and birth defects can result when pregnant women are exposed to cat feces containing the organisms that cause this disease.

Because of this risk, someone else should take over the maintenance of the litter box for the duration of the pregnancy and even before the pregnancy in the case of couples who're attempting to conceive. (Litter boxes aren't the only way to contract the disease, so talk to your doctor about additional precautions.)

-- A well-fed cat doesn't hunt.

Hunting behavior in cats is very controversial, especially if the prey is songbirds or endangered rodent species. Some cats hunt, some cats don't, and it has more to do with what a cat learned from his mother than from the rumbling in his belly. Plenty of well-fed cats are very active hunters.

Putting a bell on your cat has little effect on his ability to hunt; turning him into an indoor-dweller is the only way to protect wildlife from your cat -- and protect you from his thoughtful "gifts" of dead mice and birds.

-- Black cats are bad luck.

Black may be an unlucky color all right -- for a cat. Black cats have been associated with the forces of evil for hundreds of years, and humane societies warn that this myth has cost many of them their lives. Black cats have been the target of those who want to practice rituals that include the torture and killing of animals.

Black may be an unfortunate color for another reason: visibility. Thousands of cats are killed by cars every year, and the difference between a hit or a near-miss may be the driver's ability to see the cat darting across the road before him. At night, patches of light-colored fur are a distinct advantage to a kitty.

Q&A

Avoiding the vet not a good idea

Q: I currently have two cats, both 6 years old. I have always taken my cats to the veterinarian for everything necessary to maintain their health.

A few years ago I took a beloved cat to have his teeth cleaned. He came out of anesthesia very badly, and within a week he was dead. Since then, I have not taken my other two cats back to the veterinarian.

I decided that they were safer staying away from procedures and vaccines. One of my cats actually gets lethargic and sick after every vaccination. It has been more than three years since they have been vaccinated. They are indoor/outdoor cats. One is a hunter; the other is not.

I have read that cats do not need annual vaccinations. How often do cats need vaccinations, and how do I handle the situation with the cat who gets ill every time she is vaccinated? -- E.P., via e-mail

A: There are two issues here, so let's break them up.

First, despite your tragic loss, your cats need regular veterinary attention. Would you avoid your own physician because someone once died in a doctor's care? Of course not! I am not sure what happened with your cat, if the death was something that could not have been prevented or if the veterinarian could have done something differently.

Did you discuss what happened to your cat with your veterinarian? Were you satisfied with the explanation? If not, it's perfectly reasonable to change veterinarians, but don't give up on veterinary care entirely.

Now, about vaccines. It's true the trend is toward less-frequent vaccinations, and vaccination protocols tailored to individual cats. Indoor cats, for example, may need to be inoculated against fewer diseases than cats with access to the outdoors. Cats who become ill after vaccination may have boosters infrequently or not at all.

The American Association of Feline Practitioners has published guidelines on vaccinations that every cat lover should review. The document can be found on the Internet at www.aafponline.org (click on "resources"). The 29-page document discusses vaccine risks and benefits, and gives guidelines on how to best balance one with the other.

Run, poodle, run

Q: I have a 3-year-old toy poodle who is wonderful in every aspect except one -- once the front door opens, he bounds out and goes running. It's almost a game for him, but it's exasperating for us.

I know you have said in the past not to get angry with him when we finally catch up with him, and we do not. We enrolled him in a training class about a year ago, but he continues to run. Any suggestions? -- T.P., via e-mail

A: You're right about one thing: You should never yell at or otherwise punish a dog for not coming when called. That's the surest way I know to make sure he runs even farther and faster the next time he gets out. Wouldn't you do the same if you knew you'd be punished when caught?

In the short term, a loose dog is a crisis -- he could get hit by a car. As you've discovered, if you chase him, he will run. So don't. Instead, try to run in the opposite direction and see if he will chase you instead. Or squat down, open your arms and call sweetly. The idea is to be as appealing as possible to lure your dog in.

Also, instead of "come" -- which your dog doesn't know -- try "sit." We tend to ask our dogs to sit often, and you might be able to stop the free flight by asking for a sit.

These are emergency measures, though, and are no substitute for training him to respond to a reliable recall. Go back to your trainer, or ask your veterinarian for a referral. Instead of joining a group class, arrange for a few private lessons on this one problem area.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Summer swims good clean fun

Summer is the perfect time of year to find a clean, calm body of water and let your dog jump in. For dogs who enjoy it, swimming is great exercise on warm days.

Some precautions do apply, however. First, make sure your dog is capable of swimming. Top-heavy breeds like the bulldog are more likely to sink than swim and should be kept away from any water deeper than what he finds in his dish.

Even if your dog is physically capable of swimming, don't make him sink or swim the first time he's introduced to water. You'll scare the dickens out of your dog, and you may get badly scratched up yourself. Learning by example is probably the best way to encourage swimming: A dog who sees another dog swim is more likely to give it a try. Alternately, you can lure your dog into the water by wading out yourself, or with a game of fetch.

Dogs who love swimming don't know always know when they're in danger, so be careful on their behalf. Old or unfit dogs should be given limited time in the water, and even the best swimmers should be kept away from fast, cold rivers, ocean riptides and other hazards.

Don't forget to bring drinking water. Pollution and parasites make natural bodies of water an unhealthy source of drinking water for you and your dog. Finally, be sure to rinse your dog off with clean water afterward.

ON THE WEB

Online magazine for parrot fans

I don't know how I managed to miss the Parrot Chronicles (ParrotChronicles.com) for so long. This online magazine has hundreds of great articles on choosing and caring for parrots, along with first-person pieces that share the joy and the challenges of living with these intelligent, demanding pets.

The site has short profiles of many parrot species, with pros and cons that should give prospective owners an idea of what they're getting into. Parrot Chronicles also doesn't shy away from controversy, with opinion pieces and letters to the editors on some hot avian topics.

Training tips, health information and product reviews round out the collection. Great site!

BREED TYPE

Yorkies maintain their feisty nature

Most toy breeds were not developed for any work other than sitting on your lap. The Yorkshire terrier, however, started out as a real working terrier, and he is not likely to let you forget it.

Today Yorkies are not kept as ratters but as companions, a job at which they excel. They are smart, active, affectionate and possessed of much more than their share of charm. Even those who prefer larger dogs have been known to lose their heart to a Yorkshire terrier.

Yorkies may be a bit hard to house-train, and they require training to prevent barking from being a problem. Their coats require daily care. They can be kept cut short and scruffy or long and silky, according to the owner's preference, but they cannot be left ungroomed.

This cheerful little dog is plagued with two serious problems -- rampant irresponsible breeding and major health issues. Be sure to obtain your Yorkie from a breeder who belongs to the Yorkshire Terrier Club of America, which has an exceptionally strict code of ethics and conduct for its members, or from a reputable rescue organization. Known health problems of the breed include luxating patellas (a kneecap deformity), liver shunts and dental disease.

A word of warning: Beware of breeders advertising "teacup" or otherwise smaller-than-normal Yorkies, or charging more for Yorkies in unusual colors. Very small Yorkies have more health problems than normal-sized toy dogs.

The Yorkshire Terrier Club of America does not allow its members to advertise their dogs using the words "teacup," "doll-faced" or similar terminology, nor does it recognize any markings other than the standard blue and gold, black and gold, blue and tan, or black and tan. Don't be taken in by a marketing ploy. -- Christie Keith, doghobbyist.com

PET RX

Don't leave dog in car

You'd think everyone would know this by now, but every year some people learn the hard way. So take note: Dogs should never be left in a car when it's warm.

Note the word "warm," not "hot." That's because even on a mildly warm day the temperature in a car left in the sun can grow hot enough to kill your dog within the time it takes to run an errand or two.

And don't leave your dog in the car with the air conditioner running. Recently, a police dog died when the air conditioner in the squad car went out. There's also a chance that your running car will provide a tempting target for thieves, dog or no dog.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

July is the reason I don't recommend puppies in December.

The Christmas puppy is one of those ideas that seem so perfect, but the months that follow -- with cold, short days -- are the worst for raising and training a puppy. By the time summer arrives, too many of those Christmas puppies are untrained and too often on their way to being unwanted. The "puppy cutes" are long gone, and the boisterousness of adolescence is at its peak.

I hear every day from people who are ready to give up. "If we can't get him to stop (jumping up, disobeying, digging, barking, chewing), we have to get rid of him," they say.

You "have to"? What, someone's holding a gun to your head?

The next sentences in these letters almost certainly include a recommendation of the kind of home that would be "perfect" for the dog. One with "more space" or "more time." As if homes are plentiful for former Christmas puppies with energy to burn and absolutely no training or manners. Forget it! You're the one who took responsibility for your pup, and you're the one who'll have to fix the problems you let develop.

Yes, these dogs are fixable, and if you have one of them, you must try. Really, really try. You owe it to the pup you made such a fuss over a few short months ago to be patient and to work to make it right.

The key to getting past the rough spots: training and exercise.

If you've avoided an obedience class so far -- and you really shouldn't have, since puppy classes start for dogs as young as 12 weeks -- sign up for one now. Training may seem to be about control, but it's more about communication. When you train your dog, you're providing a common language, a way to form a strong and healthy bond between the two of you.

Training is for life. Your dog needs to keep learning and keep using all he has been taught. That doesn't mean you have to make formal obedience sessions a permanent part of your life. Instead, think of creative ways to expand your dog's working vocabulary and to integrate the skills he has learned into your life together. Two minutes here, sitting and staying for his supper dish, one minute there, coming from one end of the house to another when you call -- it all adds up.

So get going, and get individual help if you need it. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a training class, and don't be shy about scheduling a concentrated, private session with a trainer or behaviorist to work on a particular area of concern. Having a trainer pinpoint what you're doing wrong can save you plenty of time, and it's a cheaper than replacing a chewed couch.

Along with the training, start exercising your dog. Probably one of the biggest contributors to behavior problems is that dogs don't get nearly enough exercise. Your dog needs 30 to 40 minutes of aerobic exercise that gets his heart pumping, and he needs it three or more times a week to stay fit, burn excess energy and alleviate the stresses of modern life, such as staying alone for hours every day.

Exercise is especially important for dogs with a working heritage such as sporting or herding breeds. They need to move! Playing fetch, jogging, boisterous play with other dogs -- whatever it takes and whatever you can, get exercise into your dog's life. Nothing calms down a "hyper" dog like regular exercise.

If you're having problems taking your dog out on leash for exercise, invest in a front-clip harness. These fairly new contraptions make it easy to control a dog's pulling so you can start walking again. It's good for you both!

Get training, get help, get exercise, but above all, get going. Sure, it takes time and effort to raise a dog right, but the payoff is grand. Remember the dog you imagined your Christmas puppy becoming? He's in there still. And it's up to you to turn that dream into reality. Your dog is counting on you.

Q&A

Haircut fine for summer

Q: Is it safe to shave or short-crop my 2-year-old sheltie? If not, please recommend heat relief I can provide for my pup. I walk him during non-peak hot periods during the day, keep him in air conditioning, keep his water cool and thin his coat with thinning shears. -- P.H.

A: Yes, it's safe to cut your dog's hair short for the summer, but don't leave him vulnerable to sunburn with too close a shave. It's not really necessary to cut off the coat of longhaired dogs in most cases, however, and certainly not in yours, where your dog gets the benefit of air conditioning when it's hot.

Not to mention: The longhaired Lassie look of the Shetland sheepdog is one of the breed's most appealing features. Why would you want to mess with that?

Without shaving or cutting short your dog's coat, you can remove some of the weight for summer. Keep the coat regularly combed and brushed, paying special attention to the undercoat. In double-coated breeds like the Sheltie, the soft undercoat can mat into a mess that looks and feels very much like felt. It's essential to strip out the undercoat with frequent brushing -- or regular trips to a professional groomer -- to keep this mat from forming.

If you go to a groomer, consider having just the underside of your dog -- mid-chest, belly and the insides of the back legs -- shaved to provide a large expanse of skin access to the air while keeping the appearance of a lovely long coat intact.

If your dog's coat is heavily matted, I would recommend not worrying about appearance and having a groomer cut the fur short all over. That way, your dog can be comfortable -- matted fur hurts! -- while you get in the habit of regular brushing so the situation never gets that bad again.

I have two dogs who get a special summer cut. My Sheltie, Drew, gets the belly shave I described above along with a leg-feather trim not only to stay cooler, but also to keep from picking up burrs. And my retriever, Heather, has a thick, mid-length wavy coat that holds brackish water and burrs when I take her out in rough country. She gets a close-crop trim to make it harder for burrs to stick and easier for her to be sprayed clean after swimming.

Weighty question

Q: We have a 2-year-old Lab/German shepherd mix. The other day my husband and I wanted to see how much she weighed, so we got out the scale. My husband weighed himself and then picked up our heavy dog.

Unfortunately the scale would not weigh them both. We tried three times. After that, our dog would not come near us. When we called her she would hide in the corner or run outside. What's up with that? -- J.B.

A: I'm guessing she found the experience of being picked up frightening, and she didn't want to go through it again.

Have her weighed on the walk-on scale at your veterinarian's next time she's in there. In the meantime, if she looks in good weight -- you can feel but not see her ribs, and she has a tucked up "waist" -- I wouldn't worry about what she actually weighs.

A reminder

Q: Could you remind people who insist on tethering their pets in the back of their pickups that the bed gets very hot? They should put down a blanket to keep their pets from burning their pads. -- J.H.

A: Consider people reminded.

Riding in the back of a pickup truck isn't an ideal way to travel for any dog, even if securely tethered. If the back of a truck is the only option, a dog would be safer and more comfortable traveling in an airline crate that has been secured to the bed.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

What to do when pet crisis hits

The days around the Fourth of July are busy ones for veterinary emergency clinics. Couple the everyday dangers of summer -- overheating and accidental poisoning among them -- with the problems of pets terrified by fireworks, and it's no surprise a lot of animals end up in trouble at this time of year.

Here's what to remember when faced with a sick or injured pet:

-- Protect and secure your pet -- and yourself. Move your pet to a safe, comfortable location out of immediate danger. Since an animal in terror or pain may lash out, be sure to protect yourself from a nasty bite by muzzling or otherwise restraining your pet. A ready-made muzzle should be part of a basic pet first-aid kit, but in a pinch you can use soft rope or even pantyhose. (Secure with a loop around the muzzle and tie off behind the head.)

-- Scan the area for evidence that might help with a diagnosis. Empty medicine bottles, chewed materials, product wrappers and even an open craft basket can help your veterinarian know what's wrong and how to treat it. If you know what your pet got into, plan to take the container with you to the veterinary office.

-- Check your pet's vital signs such as temperature, respiratory and heart rate, blood flow to the gums, and hydration. Note the results. Your veterinarian will use your initial observations to help determine the seriousness of the situation.

-- Call the veterinary office. Stay calm and be prepared to state the situation succinctly along with your observations as to your pet's current state. Then follow the clinic's advice when it comes to what needs to happen next. If you need to transport your pet to the veterinarian's, do so in a secure carrier to prevent further injury.

The time to find a phone number for after-hours veterinary care is before you have an emergency. Ask your regular veterinarian what arrangements have been made for emergency care, and be sure to write down the phone number where you can find it in a hurry -- on the front of the refrigerator is ideal.

Likewise, don't wait to become familiar with such basic first-aid as getting vital signs. Learn how and what to check for before you need to with the aid of any basic first-aid book. Or ask your veterinarian to show you on your next healthy-pet visit.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Memories of pets find loving home

After an animal companion dies, it's important to find the support of people who understand how hard such a loss can be. The growth of pet-loss support sites on the Internet is testimony to how much people need to tell others about the animal they've just lost.

On Pet Memories Online (petmemories.com), animal lovers are encouraged to create a memories page for a lost pet, complete with an image and testimonial. The pages are sometimes difficult to read for the raw emotion they reflect, but each page no doubt helped someone work through the grief.

The site also has some basic information about grieving and links to other resources. -- G.S.

THE SCOOP

Marking helps to make a cat comfortable

The correct "smell environment" is so important to your cat that he engages in various marking behaviors to make everything in his world smell like him. You might not even be aware of some of these behaviors, such as:

-- Rubbing. Cats have sebaceous glands at the base of their hair follicles that produce sebum, a substance that serves two purposes: coating the fur for protection and depositing scent on objects in the cat's environment. These glands are most numerous around your cat's mouth; on the chin, lips, upper eyelids and the top of the tail base; and near the anus and sex organs. If a cat rubs with his head (a behavior known as "bunting"), or any of these parts of his body, he leaves his scent behind.

-- Urine-spraying. Although few humans mind being scent-marked as our cats rub against us lovingly, we do not approve of another of the cat's territorial behaviors: urine-spraying. Although any cat may spray, the behavior is most common in unneutered males. These cats feel especially driven to mark their territory with their pungent urine by backing up to objects (or even people) and letting fly with a spray.

-- Clawing. When cats dig their claws into a cat tree or piece of furniture, they're not being intentionally destructive. Scratching keeps claws in shape and provides the opportunity for a good, healthy stretch. Scratching is also a way to deposit scent. As a cat claws, the pads of his feet come in contact with what he's digging into, and that motion leaves behind scent from the sweat glands in his feet.

-- Grooming. Your cat's attention to having "every hair in its place" has many reasons, but one of them is scent-marking. Your cat's tongue covers every inch of his body with his own saliva, which carries his scent. Cats often groom themselves right after being petted to cover your scent with theirs.

PET TIP

No trim needed for cat's whiskers

Most cats have 24 whiskers, divided on either side of the nose and arranged in four horizontal rows. The top rows and bottom rows can move independently of each other, and each whisker -- they're technically called "vibrissae" -- is imbedded deeper than normal hairs to enhance its sensory input.

Even though whiskers are important to cats -- your pet may become disoriented if they're removed, which is why you never should cut them -- there is no correlation between the length of whiskers and the width of a cat. If your cat gets fat, his whiskers don't grow to match. A portly cat who comes to count on his whiskers to gauge the width of a hole may well find himself stuck.

Feline fact: The kinky-coated Cornish Rex and Devon Rex breeds have curly whiskers as well.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Your cat really isn't asking for anything more than you would when it comes to a bathroom. All that's required for most cats is that the bathroom be clean, quiet and offer no surprises.

That sounds simple, but the failure to use a litter box is the top behavior complaint of cat lovers, sending countless cats to shelters every year.

Before you even consider such a drastic step, you need to try to work things out with your cat if you have a litter box problem.

The first step in solving such a problem is to make sure it's not a medical condition -- and that means a trip to your veterinarian for a complete workup. Urinary tract infections and diseases such as diabetes make consistent litter box use impossible for even the most well-intentioned cat. You cannot hope to get your cat using the box again until any health issues have been resolved.

If your cat checks out fine, you need to start working to make sure that everything about the box is to your cat's liking. The second rule of solving a litter box problem: If the cat isn't happy, no one will be happy.

Here's what to look for:

-- Cleanliness. Cats are fastidious animals, and if the litter box is dirty, they look elsewhere for a place to go. Clean the box frequently -- twice a day at least -- and make sure it's completely scrubbed clean and aired out on a weekly basis. Having an additional litter box may help, too.

-- Box type and filler. Many choices people make to suit their own tastes conflict with the cat's sense of what's agreeable. A covered box may seem more pleasing to you, but your cat may think it's pretty rank inside, or scary. Likewise, scented litters may make you think the box smells fine, but your cat may disagree -- not only is the box dirty, he reasons, but it's got this extra "clean" odor he can't abide. Start with the basics: a large box with unscented clumping-style litter.

-- Location. Your cat's box should be away from his food and water, in a place he can get to easily and feel safe in. Consider a location from a cat's point of view: Choose a quiet spot where he can see what's coming at him. A cat doesn't want any surprises while he's in the box. You should also experiment with additional boxes in your house, especially if you have more than one cat. The rule of thumb: One box per cat, plus one.

Make the area where your cat has had mistakes less attractive by cleaning it thoroughly with a pet-odor neutralizer (available from pet-supply retailers). Discourage reuse by covering the area with foil, plastic sheeting or plastic carpet runners with the points up.

If changing things around doesn't clear up the problem in a healthy cat, you may need to retrain him by keeping your pet in a small area such as a guest bathroom for a couple of weeks.

Make sure that the area you choose has no good options besides the litter box -- no carpet, no pile of dirty laundry. Block off the bathtub or keep an inch of water in it to discourage its use as a place to go. After your cat is reliably using the litter box, let him slowly expand his territory again. As long as you keep up your end of the bargain and keep the litter box clean and safe, you have a good chance the good behavior will become permanent.

If you just can't seem to get the problem resolved, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. These veterinarians are skilled in behavioral problem-solving and are able to prescribe medications that may make the difference during the retraining period.

SIDEBAR

Making it easy

At the massive Global Pet Expo trade show earlier this year, the trends in litter boxes and accessories reflected an interest in keeping litter boxes both neat and attractive.

Petmate (1-877-738-6283, petmate.com) showed off its new Purrforma self-cleaning litter box in two sizes and three option packages: self-cleaning box only, box with paw-cleaning ramp, and box with ramp and lid. Prices range from $179.99 to $299.99.

Two companies showed products that hide litter boxes. The Out of Sight Litter Box (outofsightlitterbox.com, 1-877-702-5368) is a cabinet with storage and a ramp on the bottom level and a litter box on the upper level. Prices range from $189.95 to $229.95, depending on finish.

Hidden Litter (www.hiddenlitter.com, 1-800-884-1917) disguises the litter box as a planter, with several styles available. The top lifts off for cleaning. Prices range from $89.95 to $189.95.

Q&A

Unfair to ask puppy not to dig

Q: Our 6-month-old golden retriever, Jax, has a habit of removing and digging in the new sod we've just laid. What can we do to discourage this? Some have suggested giving him a place to dig, but this is not possible. -- C.B., via e-mail

A: You're being unfair to your dog. Jax is a puppy, and it's unrealistic to expect him to sit around unsupervised and do nothing in the yard.

If you don't want him to destroy your yard, you need to rotate some sturdy and tempting chew toys to help absorb all that young dog energy. He should not ever be in the area with the new turf unless you're there to supervise closely. He also probably needs more exercise than he's getting (that's just a guess, because few dogs get all the exercise they need).

If you cannot supervise him while he's in the yard, cannot exercise him adequately and cannot offer him a way to release his normal energy through chewing, then you need to accept some degree of yard destruction. The amount may decrease as he matures, but don't count on it. A bored, lonely dog will always find something to do. It's not his fault: He's of an active breed, and he needs an outlet for his energy.

Garden solutions often need to be a little creative. For example, my yard is divided with a small area that's fenced off for the dogs. They can come and go through a dog door into "their" yard, and they go into the main yard only when I'm with them. There's generally at least one major excavation in the dog yard, but it's out of sight. I just fill in the holes before they get to the stage where I'd have to get a building permit for the construction of a swimming pool.

In the main yard, the lawn is undamaged and green -- when I remember to water it, that is.

You can learn more on how dogs and gardens can peacefully coexist by picking up a copy of Cheryl S. Smith's "Dog Friendly Gardens, Garden Friendly Dogs" (Dogwise, $20).

Missed signals

Q: I have a 6-year-old male Lab mix, Zues. My boyfriend has a 14-year-old shar-pei, Pugsly, who is partially blind and has problems hearing, but he's a happy, healthy dog otherwise.

When Zues and Pugsly started to visit with each other, they would play together fine. But during one of our visits, Pugsly wandered toward Zues' food while he was eating. Zues snarled and snapped at Pugsly.

I was so surprised at Zues that I scolded him and put him in a separate room for half an hour. Since then, Zues has had nothing to do with Pugsly. He doesn't act afraid of him -- he just has nothing to do with him. Did I do this to him when I scolded him? -- M.B., via e-mail

A: I'm guessing that before Zues snapped at Pugsly, he gave him several "get away from my food" signals that Pugsly neither saw nor heard because his senses aren't what they used to be. The fact that Zeus didn't connect on the bite suggests that he was still trying to get his point across without violence.

It does sound as if Zues took your correction to heart and has decided not to deal with Pugsly anymore. I'd advise you to just let the situation rest as it is. Whatever you do, don't put old Pugsly in a dangerous situation again. Make sure he leaves Zues alone when he's eating.

If, however, Zues, has a problem with anyone else approaching his dish, please seek advice from a trainer or behaviorist with experience in resource-guarding issues.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Common sense and pit bulls

Optional caption: Love them, hate them or just want them controlled, most people have strong feelings when it comes to pit bulls. They're banned in Denver, and San Francisco is looking to regulate them after a 12-year-old boy was killed by his family's pets.

The pit bull -- a generic term for any one of several similar breeds -- was developed to fight other animals. Many experts say that killer instinct toward other dogs and smaller pets remains to some degree in many pit bulls today. Aggression against humans was never in the plan for a well-bred pit bull, but the breed's popularity with gang members and quick-buck breeders has produced a lot of unsafe pits that should never be pets.

Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pitbulls (www.badrap.org) is a pit bull advocacy and education group that offers information about these dogs in a way that's both sensible and cautionary. As the pit bull debate continues, it's important to understand as much as possible about what's behind the problems with pit bulls -- and to explore all possible solutions.

PET RX

Swollen ear flap needs medical aid

Blood vessels broken by head-shaking can cause a dog's ear flap to fill up like a water balloon. The condition is known as an aural hematoma.

Although the problem will eventually resolve itself if left alone, the process takes a long time and is painful to the dog. Allowing the ear to heal itself will also result in an unattractive "cauliflower" ear. Surgical intervention to drain and treat the ear flap is a more effective and humane choice.

Another argument in favor of veterinary care: The reason a dog was shaking his head may also be a condition in need of treatment. An ear infection is a likely culprit that will need to be treated along with the hematoma.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Unclipped wings a hazard for birds

The idea of the freedom of flying adds to the appeal of birds as pets.

Birds are not the only creatures who fly, of course. A zillion insects manage it, as do mammals such as bats. But birds do it with style, grace and -- in the case of many parrot species -- with a flash of brilliant color.

Maybe what we feel is more envy than admiration. After all, it's only recently that we've been able to fly. Let's be honest: Blasting place to place inside a jet-propelled metal tube hardly has the same appeal as going when and where you want just by stretching your wings.

When it comes to most pet birds, though, flight is very risky. Avian veterinarians see the result of letting pet birds fly free every day: birds who have slammed into windows, landed in sizzling frying pans and touched down in boiling pots of water. Some birds have even flown into open toilets and drowned.

My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian specialist Dr. Brian L. Speer, has seen all these kinds of tragedies, along with birds who've landed in ovens, in fireplaces and into the open drooling mouths of dogs and cats.

These dangers are why pet parrots need to have their wings kept trimmed and be trained to stay safely in and on top of cages and play stands. An avian veterinarian or reputable bird shop will be happy to keep your bird's wings properly trimmed so your pet can manage a soft landing in a pinch, but no lift-off.

The benefits besides safety: Birds whose wings are kept in good trim may be less likely to engage in dominant behavior. And a well-socialized bird with wings safely trimmed may enjoy accompanying you on trips outside the home.

PET TIP

Be careful with games of fetch

Retrieving games are great for getting your dog some exercise and for strengthening the bond between the two of you. But sometimes those rousing games of fetch can end in serious injury if you're not careful about how you play the game.

Never throw things for your pet in a way that makes him leap high in the air or twist to catch them. If you do, your pet might seriously injure his legs or back upon landing, with the kind of damage that often requires expensive and painful surgery to correct.

Instead, throw the ball or other toy so it stays low and in front of your pet, to help him keep his body near the ground, running instead of leaping. And at this time of year, don't push your dog to play in the heat. Strenuous activity needs to be limited to cooler parts of the day.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600