July is the reason I don't recommend puppies in December.

The Christmas puppy is one of those ideas that seem so perfect, but the months that follow -- with cold, short days -- are the worst for raising and training a puppy. By the time summer arrives, too many of those Christmas puppies are untrained and too often on their way to being unwanted. The "puppy cutes" are long gone, and the boisterousness of adolescence is at its peak.

I hear every day from people who are ready to give up. "If we can't get him to stop (jumping up, disobeying, digging, barking, chewing), we have to get rid of him," they say.

You "have to"? What, someone's holding a gun to your head?

The next sentences in these letters almost certainly include a recommendation of the kind of home that would be "perfect" for the dog. One with "more space" or "more time." As if homes are plentiful for former Christmas puppies with energy to burn and absolutely no training or manners. Forget it! You're the one who took responsibility for your pup, and you're the one who'll have to fix the problems you let develop.

Yes, these dogs are fixable, and if you have one of them, you must try. Really, really try. You owe it to the pup you made such a fuss over a few short months ago to be patient and to work to make it right.

The key to getting past the rough spots: training and exercise.

If you've avoided an obedience class so far -- and you really shouldn't have, since puppy classes start for dogs as young as 12 weeks -- sign up for one now. Training may seem to be about control, but it's more about communication. When you train your dog, you're providing a common language, a way to form a strong and healthy bond between the two of you.

Training is for life. Your dog needs to keep learning and keep using all he has been taught. That doesn't mean you have to make formal obedience sessions a permanent part of your life. Instead, think of creative ways to expand your dog's working vocabulary and to integrate the skills he has learned into your life together. Two minutes here, sitting and staying for his supper dish, one minute there, coming from one end of the house to another when you call -- it all adds up.

So get going, and get individual help if you need it. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a training class, and don't be shy about scheduling a concentrated, private session with a trainer or behaviorist to work on a particular area of concern. Having a trainer pinpoint what you're doing wrong can save you plenty of time, and it's a cheaper than replacing a chewed couch.

Along with the training, start exercising your dog. Probably one of the biggest contributors to behavior problems is that dogs don't get nearly enough exercise. Your dog needs 30 to 40 minutes of aerobic exercise that gets his heart pumping, and he needs it three or more times a week to stay fit, burn excess energy and alleviate the stresses of modern life, such as staying alone for hours every day.

Exercise is especially important for dogs with a working heritage such as sporting or herding breeds. They need to move! Playing fetch, jogging, boisterous play with other dogs -- whatever it takes and whatever you can, get exercise into your dog's life. Nothing calms down a "hyper" dog like regular exercise.

If you're having problems taking your dog out on leash for exercise, invest in a front-clip harness. These fairly new contraptions make it easy to control a dog's pulling so you can start walking again. It's good for you both!

Get training, get help, get exercise, but above all, get going. Sure, it takes time and effort to raise a dog right, but the payoff is grand. Remember the dog you imagined your Christmas puppy becoming? He's in there still. And it's up to you to turn that dream into reality. Your dog is counting on you.

Q&A

Haircut fine for summer

Q: Is it safe to shave or short-crop my 2-year-old sheltie? If not, please recommend heat relief I can provide for my pup. I walk him during non-peak hot periods during the day, keep him in air conditioning, keep his water cool and thin his coat with thinning shears. -- P.H.

A: Yes, it's safe to cut your dog's hair short for the summer, but don't leave him vulnerable to sunburn with too close a shave. It's not really necessary to cut off the coat of longhaired dogs in most cases, however, and certainly not in yours, where your dog gets the benefit of air conditioning when it's hot.

Not to mention: The longhaired Lassie look of the Shetland sheepdog is one of the breed's most appealing features. Why would you want to mess with that?

Without shaving or cutting short your dog's coat, you can remove some of the weight for summer. Keep the coat regularly combed and brushed, paying special attention to the undercoat. In double-coated breeds like the Sheltie, the soft undercoat can mat into a mess that looks and feels very much like felt. It's essential to strip out the undercoat with frequent brushing -- or regular trips to a professional groomer -- to keep this mat from forming.

If you go to a groomer, consider having just the underside of your dog -- mid-chest, belly and the insides of the back legs -- shaved to provide a large expanse of skin access to the air while keeping the appearance of a lovely long coat intact.

If your dog's coat is heavily matted, I would recommend not worrying about appearance and having a groomer cut the fur short all over. That way, your dog can be comfortable -- matted fur hurts! -- while you get in the habit of regular brushing so the situation never gets that bad again.

I have two dogs who get a special summer cut. My Sheltie, Drew, gets the belly shave I described above along with a leg-feather trim not only to stay cooler, but also to keep from picking up burrs. And my retriever, Heather, has a thick, mid-length wavy coat that holds brackish water and burrs when I take her out in rough country. She gets a close-crop trim to make it harder for burrs to stick and easier for her to be sprayed clean after swimming.

Weighty question

Q: We have a 2-year-old Lab/German shepherd mix. The other day my husband and I wanted to see how much she weighed, so we got out the scale. My husband weighed himself and then picked up our heavy dog.

Unfortunately the scale would not weigh them both. We tried three times. After that, our dog would not come near us. When we called her she would hide in the corner or run outside. What's up with that? -- J.B.

A: I'm guessing she found the experience of being picked up frightening, and she didn't want to go through it again.

Have her weighed on the walk-on scale at your veterinarian's next time she's in there. In the meantime, if she looks in good weight -- you can feel but not see her ribs, and she has a tucked up "waist" -- I wouldn't worry about what she actually weighs.

A reminder

Q: Could you remind people who insist on tethering their pets in the back of their pickups that the bed gets very hot? They should put down a blanket to keep their pets from burning their pads. -- J.H.

A: Consider people reminded.

Riding in the back of a pickup truck isn't an ideal way to travel for any dog, even if securely tethered. If the back of a truck is the only option, a dog would be safer and more comfortable traveling in an airline crate that has been secured to the bed.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

What to do when pet crisis hits

The days around the Fourth of July are busy ones for veterinary emergency clinics. Couple the everyday dangers of summer -- overheating and accidental poisoning among them -- with the problems of pets terrified by fireworks, and it's no surprise a lot of animals end up in trouble at this time of year.

Here's what to remember when faced with a sick or injured pet:

-- Protect and secure your pet -- and yourself. Move your pet to a safe, comfortable location out of immediate danger. Since an animal in terror or pain may lash out, be sure to protect yourself from a nasty bite by muzzling or otherwise restraining your pet. A ready-made muzzle should be part of a basic pet first-aid kit, but in a pinch you can use soft rope or even pantyhose. (Secure with a loop around the muzzle and tie off behind the head.)

-- Scan the area for evidence that might help with a diagnosis. Empty medicine bottles, chewed materials, product wrappers and even an open craft basket can help your veterinarian know what's wrong and how to treat it. If you know what your pet got into, plan to take the container with you to the veterinary office.

-- Check your pet's vital signs such as temperature, respiratory and heart rate, blood flow to the gums, and hydration. Note the results. Your veterinarian will use your initial observations to help determine the seriousness of the situation.

-- Call the veterinary office. Stay calm and be prepared to state the situation succinctly along with your observations as to your pet's current state. Then follow the clinic's advice when it comes to what needs to happen next. If you need to transport your pet to the veterinarian's, do so in a secure carrier to prevent further injury.

The time to find a phone number for after-hours veterinary care is before you have an emergency. Ask your regular veterinarian what arrangements have been made for emergency care, and be sure to write down the phone number where you can find it in a hurry -- on the front of the refrigerator is ideal.

Likewise, don't wait to become familiar with such basic first-aid as getting vital signs. Learn how and what to check for before you need to with the aid of any basic first-aid book. Or ask your veterinarian to show you on your next healthy-pet visit.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Memories of pets find loving home

After an animal companion dies, it's important to find the support of people who understand how hard such a loss can be. The growth of pet-loss support sites on the Internet is testimony to how much people need to tell others about the animal they've just lost.

On Pet Memories Online (petmemories.com), animal lovers are encouraged to create a memories page for a lost pet, complete with an image and testimonial. The pages are sometimes difficult to read for the raw emotion they reflect, but each page no doubt helped someone work through the grief.

The site also has some basic information about grieving and links to other resources. -- G.S.

THE SCOOP

Marking helps to make a cat comfortable

The correct "smell environment" is so important to your cat that he engages in various marking behaviors to make everything in his world smell like him. You might not even be aware of some of these behaviors, such as:

-- Rubbing. Cats have sebaceous glands at the base of their hair follicles that produce sebum, a substance that serves two purposes: coating the fur for protection and depositing scent on objects in the cat's environment. These glands are most numerous around your cat's mouth; on the chin, lips, upper eyelids and the top of the tail base; and near the anus and sex organs. If a cat rubs with his head (a behavior known as "bunting"), or any of these parts of his body, he leaves his scent behind.

-- Urine-spraying. Although few humans mind being scent-marked as our cats rub against us lovingly, we do not approve of another of the cat's territorial behaviors: urine-spraying. Although any cat may spray, the behavior is most common in unneutered males. These cats feel especially driven to mark their territory with their pungent urine by backing up to objects (or even people) and letting fly with a spray.

-- Clawing. When cats dig their claws into a cat tree or piece of furniture, they're not being intentionally destructive. Scratching keeps claws in shape and provides the opportunity for a good, healthy stretch. Scratching is also a way to deposit scent. As a cat claws, the pads of his feet come in contact with what he's digging into, and that motion leaves behind scent from the sweat glands in his feet.

-- Grooming. Your cat's attention to having "every hair in its place" has many reasons, but one of them is scent-marking. Your cat's tongue covers every inch of his body with his own saliva, which carries his scent. Cats often groom themselves right after being petted to cover your scent with theirs.

PET TIP

No trim needed for cat's whiskers

Most cats have 24 whiskers, divided on either side of the nose and arranged in four horizontal rows. The top rows and bottom rows can move independently of each other, and each whisker -- they're technically called "vibrissae" -- is imbedded deeper than normal hairs to enhance its sensory input.

Even though whiskers are important to cats -- your pet may become disoriented if they're removed, which is why you never should cut them -- there is no correlation between the length of whiskers and the width of a cat. If your cat gets fat, his whiskers don't grow to match. A portly cat who comes to count on his whiskers to gauge the width of a hole may well find himself stuck.

Feline fact: The kinky-coated Cornish Rex and Devon Rex breeds have curly whiskers as well.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Your cat really isn't asking for anything more than you would when it comes to a bathroom. All that's required for most cats is that the bathroom be clean, quiet and offer no surprises.

That sounds simple, but the failure to use a litter box is the top behavior complaint of cat lovers, sending countless cats to shelters every year.

Before you even consider such a drastic step, you need to try to work things out with your cat if you have a litter box problem.

The first step in solving such a problem is to make sure it's not a medical condition -- and that means a trip to your veterinarian for a complete workup. Urinary tract infections and diseases such as diabetes make consistent litter box use impossible for even the most well-intentioned cat. You cannot hope to get your cat using the box again until any health issues have been resolved.

If your cat checks out fine, you need to start working to make sure that everything about the box is to your cat's liking. The second rule of solving a litter box problem: If the cat isn't happy, no one will be happy.

Here's what to look for:

-- Cleanliness. Cats are fastidious animals, and if the litter box is dirty, they look elsewhere for a place to go. Clean the box frequently -- twice a day at least -- and make sure it's completely scrubbed clean and aired out on a weekly basis. Having an additional litter box may help, too.

-- Box type and filler. Many choices people make to suit their own tastes conflict with the cat's sense of what's agreeable. A covered box may seem more pleasing to you, but your cat may think it's pretty rank inside, or scary. Likewise, scented litters may make you think the box smells fine, but your cat may disagree -- not only is the box dirty, he reasons, but it's got this extra "clean" odor he can't abide. Start with the basics: a large box with unscented clumping-style litter.

-- Location. Your cat's box should be away from his food and water, in a place he can get to easily and feel safe in. Consider a location from a cat's point of view: Choose a quiet spot where he can see what's coming at him. A cat doesn't want any surprises while he's in the box. You should also experiment with additional boxes in your house, especially if you have more than one cat. The rule of thumb: One box per cat, plus one.

Make the area where your cat has had mistakes less attractive by cleaning it thoroughly with a pet-odor neutralizer (available from pet-supply retailers). Discourage reuse by covering the area with foil, plastic sheeting or plastic carpet runners with the points up.

If changing things around doesn't clear up the problem in a healthy cat, you may need to retrain him by keeping your pet in a small area such as a guest bathroom for a couple of weeks.

Make sure that the area you choose has no good options besides the litter box -- no carpet, no pile of dirty laundry. Block off the bathtub or keep an inch of water in it to discourage its use as a place to go. After your cat is reliably using the litter box, let him slowly expand his territory again. As long as you keep up your end of the bargain and keep the litter box clean and safe, you have a good chance the good behavior will become permanent.

If you just can't seem to get the problem resolved, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. These veterinarians are skilled in behavioral problem-solving and are able to prescribe medications that may make the difference during the retraining period.

SIDEBAR

Making it easy

At the massive Global Pet Expo trade show earlier this year, the trends in litter boxes and accessories reflected an interest in keeping litter boxes both neat and attractive.

Petmate (1-877-738-6283, petmate.com) showed off its new Purrforma self-cleaning litter box in two sizes and three option packages: self-cleaning box only, box with paw-cleaning ramp, and box with ramp and lid. Prices range from $179.99 to $299.99.

Two companies showed products that hide litter boxes. The Out of Sight Litter Box (outofsightlitterbox.com, 1-877-702-5368) is a cabinet with storage and a ramp on the bottom level and a litter box on the upper level. Prices range from $189.95 to $229.95, depending on finish.

Hidden Litter (www.hiddenlitter.com, 1-800-884-1917) disguises the litter box as a planter, with several styles available. The top lifts off for cleaning. Prices range from $89.95 to $189.95.

Q&A

Unfair to ask puppy not to dig

Q: Our 6-month-old golden retriever, Jax, has a habit of removing and digging in the new sod we've just laid. What can we do to discourage this? Some have suggested giving him a place to dig, but this is not possible. -- C.B., via e-mail

A: You're being unfair to your dog. Jax is a puppy, and it's unrealistic to expect him to sit around unsupervised and do nothing in the yard.

If you don't want him to destroy your yard, you need to rotate some sturdy and tempting chew toys to help absorb all that young dog energy. He should not ever be in the area with the new turf unless you're there to supervise closely. He also probably needs more exercise than he's getting (that's just a guess, because few dogs get all the exercise they need).

If you cannot supervise him while he's in the yard, cannot exercise him adequately and cannot offer him a way to release his normal energy through chewing, then you need to accept some degree of yard destruction. The amount may decrease as he matures, but don't count on it. A bored, lonely dog will always find something to do. It's not his fault: He's of an active breed, and he needs an outlet for his energy.

Garden solutions often need to be a little creative. For example, my yard is divided with a small area that's fenced off for the dogs. They can come and go through a dog door into "their" yard, and they go into the main yard only when I'm with them. There's generally at least one major excavation in the dog yard, but it's out of sight. I just fill in the holes before they get to the stage where I'd have to get a building permit for the construction of a swimming pool.

In the main yard, the lawn is undamaged and green -- when I remember to water it, that is.

You can learn more on how dogs and gardens can peacefully coexist by picking up a copy of Cheryl S. Smith's "Dog Friendly Gardens, Garden Friendly Dogs" (Dogwise, $20).

Missed signals

Q: I have a 6-year-old male Lab mix, Zues. My boyfriend has a 14-year-old shar-pei, Pugsly, who is partially blind and has problems hearing, but he's a happy, healthy dog otherwise.

When Zues and Pugsly started to visit with each other, they would play together fine. But during one of our visits, Pugsly wandered toward Zues' food while he was eating. Zues snarled and snapped at Pugsly.

I was so surprised at Zues that I scolded him and put him in a separate room for half an hour. Since then, Zues has had nothing to do with Pugsly. He doesn't act afraid of him -- he just has nothing to do with him. Did I do this to him when I scolded him? -- M.B., via e-mail

A: I'm guessing that before Zues snapped at Pugsly, he gave him several "get away from my food" signals that Pugsly neither saw nor heard because his senses aren't what they used to be. The fact that Zeus didn't connect on the bite suggests that he was still trying to get his point across without violence.

It does sound as if Zues took your correction to heart and has decided not to deal with Pugsly anymore. I'd advise you to just let the situation rest as it is. Whatever you do, don't put old Pugsly in a dangerous situation again. Make sure he leaves Zues alone when he's eating.

If, however, Zues, has a problem with anyone else approaching his dish, please seek advice from a trainer or behaviorist with experience in resource-guarding issues.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Common sense and pit bulls

Optional caption: Love them, hate them or just want them controlled, most people have strong feelings when it comes to pit bulls. They're banned in Denver, and San Francisco is looking to regulate them after a 12-year-old boy was killed by his family's pets.

The pit bull -- a generic term for any one of several similar breeds -- was developed to fight other animals. Many experts say that killer instinct toward other dogs and smaller pets remains to some degree in many pit bulls today. Aggression against humans was never in the plan for a well-bred pit bull, but the breed's popularity with gang members and quick-buck breeders has produced a lot of unsafe pits that should never be pets.

Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pitbulls (www.badrap.org) is a pit bull advocacy and education group that offers information about these dogs in a way that's both sensible and cautionary. As the pit bull debate continues, it's important to understand as much as possible about what's behind the problems with pit bulls -- and to explore all possible solutions.

PET RX

Swollen ear flap needs medical aid

Blood vessels broken by head-shaking can cause a dog's ear flap to fill up like a water balloon. The condition is known as an aural hematoma.

Although the problem will eventually resolve itself if left alone, the process takes a long time and is painful to the dog. Allowing the ear to heal itself will also result in an unattractive "cauliflower" ear. Surgical intervention to drain and treat the ear flap is a more effective and humane choice.

Another argument in favor of veterinary care: The reason a dog was shaking his head may also be a condition in need of treatment. An ear infection is a likely culprit that will need to be treated along with the hematoma.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Unclipped wings a hazard for birds

The idea of the freedom of flying adds to the appeal of birds as pets.

Birds are not the only creatures who fly, of course. A zillion insects manage it, as do mammals such as bats. But birds do it with style, grace and -- in the case of many parrot species -- with a flash of brilliant color.

Maybe what we feel is more envy than admiration. After all, it's only recently that we've been able to fly. Let's be honest: Blasting place to place inside a jet-propelled metal tube hardly has the same appeal as going when and where you want just by stretching your wings.

When it comes to most pet birds, though, flight is very risky. Avian veterinarians see the result of letting pet birds fly free every day: birds who have slammed into windows, landed in sizzling frying pans and touched down in boiling pots of water. Some birds have even flown into open toilets and drowned.

My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian specialist Dr. Brian L. Speer, has seen all these kinds of tragedies, along with birds who've landed in ovens, in fireplaces and into the open drooling mouths of dogs and cats.

These dangers are why pet parrots need to have their wings kept trimmed and be trained to stay safely in and on top of cages and play stands. An avian veterinarian or reputable bird shop will be happy to keep your bird's wings properly trimmed so your pet can manage a soft landing in a pinch, but no lift-off.

The benefits besides safety: Birds whose wings are kept in good trim may be less likely to engage in dominant behavior. And a well-socialized bird with wings safely trimmed may enjoy accompanying you on trips outside the home.

PET TIP

Be careful with games of fetch

Retrieving games are great for getting your dog some exercise and for strengthening the bond between the two of you. But sometimes those rousing games of fetch can end in serious injury if you're not careful about how you play the game.

Never throw things for your pet in a way that makes him leap high in the air or twist to catch them. If you do, your pet might seriously injure his legs or back upon landing, with the kind of damage that often requires expensive and painful surgery to correct.

Instead, throw the ball or other toy so it stays low and in front of your pet, to help him keep his body near the ground, running instead of leaping. And at this time of year, don't push your dog to play in the heat. Strenuous activity needs to be limited to cooler parts of the day.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As much as people love spending time with their dogs, it's should be no surprise that many will figure out any way possible to keep from leaving them home when it's time to go to work.

While no one knows for sure how many businesses allow dogs, Pet Sitters International, which promotes the annual "Take Your Dog to Work Day," says the trend is small but growing.

"We've seen steady growth in participation," says PSI's John Long. "The first year, we had 500 companies. In 2003, more than 5,000."

Take Your Dog to Work Day, the seventh such event, is June 24 this year, and PSI expects more than 10,000 companies to have some sort of canine-related event.

"Having dogs in the workplace has been shown to reduce stress and improve employee moral. Employees are more willing to work longer hours," says Long. "It's also a nice recruiting tool. A company that has pet-friendly policy will appear more attractive to a dog lover."

Of course, having dogs come to work has more than its share of challenges. Some people are allergic to dogs, and some are frightened of them. There's also the issue of potty breaks and cleanups, and of setting a professional tone.

Long says having dogs in the workplace works when the company sets up guidelines that everyone agrees on in advance and that are geared to address the potential problems. Dogs may be allowed in certain parts of the building only, for example, or can come in only on certain days.

Although PSI has a couple of large companies involved in Take Your Dog to Work Day, most workplaces that allow dogs are small ones, says Long, and typically in a creative line of work. Small technology, advertising or design companies seem to have more dog-friendly workplaces, says Long, as do real estate agencies.

"You only want to bring in pets that are first and foremost clean, well-groomed and socialized. No dogs with an aggressive nature, shy or nervous," he says. "And always have cleanup supplies on hand."

Don Linville, a partner in the Sacramento, Calif., Web-development firm CR deZign, runs a business that fits the profile of a typical dog-friendly office. He left his tie behind on Wall Street and likes working in a small-business environment that's relaxed and dog-friendly. His dog, Henry, a 10-month-old retriever, grew up in the office and is there most days when clients aren't.

"When I looked for a dog, I specifically looked for mellow, for a breed that would work best around people," he says, "and I made sure everyone who works here was OK with a dog."

Because Henry was a puppy when he joined the firm, cleanup supplies came in handy, but so did a crate. "When he was small, the crate was his default," says Linville. "He'd be in the crate except when it was time for walking or play."

Now mostly grown up, Henry's main job is that of greeter. "He prefers the mailman over the UPS guy, but he likes the FedEx guy best of all," says Linville, who notes that the retriever's also a good center fielder in the occasional office Wiffle-ball games.

For Linville, the advantage of having Henry in the office is that it makes working long hours more bearable. "He's a good distraction. I can't focus for 12 hours straight, but I can put a leash on him and take a walk," he says. "Or just stop, take a couple of minutes and throw the ball for Henry.

"He has become kind of a mascot here. Folks are genuinely bummed out if he's not at work."

SIDEBAR

Dogs have their day

Pet Sitters International has been organizing Take Your Dog to Work Day since 1999, with the exception of one year when it sold the event to the now-defunct Pets.com. This year's celebration is June 24, and more than 10,000 companies are expected to participate.

For more information, visit the event's Web site, www.petsit.com/dogday.

Q&A

Some cats crave companionship

Q: I adopted a kitten last year and am keeping her as an indoor cat. Between working and commuting, I'm gone a long time every day during the week. She has plenty of toys, but I wonder if she'd like a companion. I'm thinking of adopting an adult this time, but would another kitten would be better? -- E.C., via e-mail

A: Considering the youth of your present cat, I think adopting another cat is a great idea that will almost certainly add to her quality of life. I also recommend choosing an adult over a kitten. Considering how little time you have for raising a kitten, a well-mannered adult cat seems the perfect addition.

But that's not the only reason.

Once kitten season starts, even the sweetest, handsomest and most well-mannered cats run out of time before anyone recognizes them for the wonderful companions they are and adopt them.

The sole reason: Cats just aren't as cute as kittens. Being overlooked at the shelter is bad news for the cats, of course, but it's also unfortunate for many people who don't realize that an adult cat may, in many cases, be a better choice than a kitten. Sure, kittens are cute, but they also can be a bit of a trial as they grow up. They need extra time, extra training and extra tolerance for all those crazy things that kittens do.

Adding a second cat will require patience, but it usually works out.

Since the worst territorial spats are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned. You should also take the new cat or kitten to your veterinarian before bringing him home, to be certified free of parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia.

Don't force the cats together, but rather set them up in different parts of the house with their own bowls, scratching posts and litter boxes and let them work out their own timetable for introductions.

June is Adopt-A-Cat Month at many of the nation's shelters, so there's no time like the present to get your cat a companion.

Rabies shots: How often?

Q: How often do dogs need a rabies shot? I've heard "every year" and "every three years." I don't want to pay for something I don't have to. -- E.L., via e-mail

A: Your dog needs to be revaccinated at regular intervals determined by the local or state law in your area. While most states require vaccination every three years -- Florida recently became the 35th such state -- others insist on an annual rabies shot.

When it comes to rabies, the laws aren't really for your pet's benefit; they're for yours. While the risk of contracting rabies from your pet may be small, the disease is deadly if not caught early. People can die from rabies, which is why the law is so unforgiving on the topic of vaccinations.

If you have questions regarding the law in your area, call your local animal-control agency.

Incidentally, while the focus of rabies prevention has traditionally been on dogs, cases of feline rabies are not uncommon. Even if a rabies vaccine is not required by law in your area, public-health officials strongly urge vaccinating cats as well. And more and more places are requiring it.

The bottom line: Keeping your pets' rabies vaccinations current is just good common sense.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET PLATES

Breed love on a plate

When it comes to dogs, everyone has favorites among the breeds. When it comes to vanity license plates, many people choose to share those favorites. This week's reader submissions fall into that category, and one of the plates even shows off Ohio's new pet-friendly plates. (For more information, go to www.petsohio.com.) The plates:

-- LUVBDOG. Ohio offered the PetsOhio plate this year, and because we love our English bulldog, Bridget Jones, I chose "LUVBDOG." She is the most beautiful dog ever! -- B.C., via e-mail

-- 2SCOTEZ. Ah, yes, the license plate game! Here's a picture of the plates on our Ohio Chrysler 300. We travel with the dogs -- a black Scottie and a wheaton Scottie -- in their pup car seats to South Carolina several times a year. Do we get the double takes! -- B.K. and S.K., via e-mail

(If you have a pet-related license plate send a jpeg digital image and the story behind the plate to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET RX

Don't take chances with puppy, parvo

Socialization is important for young puppies, but so is protection against canine parvovirus. Your puppy should not be exposed to areas frequented by other dogs (such as parks) and should not be introduced to dogs whose vaccination status cannot be determined.

Protection against parvovirus and other diseases is not in place until your puppy's initial vaccinations are behind him. Talk to your veterinarian about how many vaccines are necessary, and what kinds are recommended. The trend these days is to balance vaccine risk and benefit by using the fewest vaccines to get the immune system ready to fight disease.

Vomiting and bloody diarrhea in a puppy is an emergency that requires immediate veterinary assistance. A test at the veterinarian's will determine if the puppy has parvo and, if so, treatment can then begin in an effort to save the pet's life.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Grooming does more than keep cats clean

Cats do their best to keep every hair in order -- and not just for the sake of appearance. Grooming has a number of advantages to your cat, including:

-- Weatherproofing. Separating and smoothing each hair help to improve the fur's insulating abilities, keeping both heat and cold at bay. As a cat grooms, he also distributes the oils from his skin throughout his coat, giving it a measure of waterproofing.

-- Scent-marking. Grooming helps to distribute a cat's scent across his whole body, which cats find very comforting. Scent is so important, a cat often licks himself right after being petted, both to re-establish his own scent and to drink in yours. (And that's not the only grooming act that puts a cat's scent where he wants it: The act of digging his claws into a fence post (outside) or sofa or cat tree (inside) not only keeps his nails sharp, but also leaves secretions from glands in his paws on the object he fancies.)

-- Parasite and burr control. Although your cat can't keep up with a major flea and tick infestation, he does his best by nibbling the pests off his body. Burrs and other things that get caught on the fur are also removed during a cat's grooming sessions.

-- Sociality. In a multicat household, especially one with littermates, you often see cats grooming each other. This behavior -- which is also performed on beloved humans -- is a way of reinforcing a cat's connection to his family.

Grooming has so many benefits that you can easily see why, next to sleeping, it's one of the most important tasks on any cat's list.

ON THE WEB

Reports to track airline pet deaths

Airlines must now include the number of killed, lost or injured pets on reports that previously listed only mishandled baggage, late departures and other annoyances of travel.

Animal activists says the reports will make air travel safer by allowing people to choose airlines with good safety records when it comes to pets. Industry representatives warn the reporting requirement may make those airlines that still allow pets more likely to join those that don't. The reports will be posted on the U.S. Department of Transportation's Web site at http://airconsumer.ost.dot.gov/reports/. The agency also offers pet travel regulations at http://airconsumer.ost.dot.gov/publications/animals.htm.

The Humane Society of the United States (hsus.org) has information on how to minimize risks for pets traveling by air, and the American Kennel Club (akc.org) keeps a current list of airline policies and fees for pets, in addition to its own page of air-travel tips.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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