pets

Dogs at Work

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | June 20th, 2005

As much as people love spending time with their dogs, it's should be no surprise that many will figure out any way possible to keep from leaving them home when it's time to go to work.

While no one knows for sure how many businesses allow dogs, Pet Sitters International, which promotes the annual "Take Your Dog to Work Day," says the trend is small but growing.

"We've seen steady growth in participation," says PSI's John Long. "The first year, we had 500 companies. In 2003, more than 5,000."

Take Your Dog to Work Day, the seventh such event, is June 24 this year, and PSI expects more than 10,000 companies to have some sort of canine-related event.

"Having dogs in the workplace has been shown to reduce stress and improve employee moral. Employees are more willing to work longer hours," says Long. "It's also a nice recruiting tool. A company that has pet-friendly policy will appear more attractive to a dog lover."

Of course, having dogs come to work has more than its share of challenges. Some people are allergic to dogs, and some are frightened of them. There's also the issue of potty breaks and cleanups, and of setting a professional tone.

Long says having dogs in the workplace works when the company sets up guidelines that everyone agrees on in advance and that are geared to address the potential problems. Dogs may be allowed in certain parts of the building only, for example, or can come in only on certain days.

Although PSI has a couple of large companies involved in Take Your Dog to Work Day, most workplaces that allow dogs are small ones, says Long, and typically in a creative line of work. Small technology, advertising or design companies seem to have more dog-friendly workplaces, says Long, as do real estate agencies.

"You only want to bring in pets that are first and foremost clean, well-groomed and socialized. No dogs with an aggressive nature, shy or nervous," he says. "And always have cleanup supplies on hand."

Don Linville, a partner in the Sacramento, Calif., Web-development firm CR deZign, runs a business that fits the profile of a typical dog-friendly office. He left his tie behind on Wall Street and likes working in a small-business environment that's relaxed and dog-friendly. His dog, Henry, a 10-month-old retriever, grew up in the office and is there most days when clients aren't.

"When I looked for a dog, I specifically looked for mellow, for a breed that would work best around people," he says, "and I made sure everyone who works here was OK with a dog."

Because Henry was a puppy when he joined the firm, cleanup supplies came in handy, but so did a crate. "When he was small, the crate was his default," says Linville. "He'd be in the crate except when it was time for walking or play."

Now mostly grown up, Henry's main job is that of greeter. "He prefers the mailman over the UPS guy, but he likes the FedEx guy best of all," says Linville, who notes that the retriever's also a good center fielder in the occasional office Wiffle-ball games.

For Linville, the advantage of having Henry in the office is that it makes working long hours more bearable. "He's a good distraction. I can't focus for 12 hours straight, but I can put a leash on him and take a walk," he says. "Or just stop, take a couple of minutes and throw the ball for Henry.

"He has become kind of a mascot here. Folks are genuinely bummed out if he's not at work."

SIDEBAR

Dogs have their day

Pet Sitters International has been organizing Take Your Dog to Work Day since 1999, with the exception of one year when it sold the event to the now-defunct Pets.com. This year's celebration is June 24, and more than 10,000 companies are expected to participate.

For more information, visit the event's Web site, www.petsit.com/dogday.

Q&A

Some cats crave companionship

Q: I adopted a kitten last year and am keeping her as an indoor cat. Between working and commuting, I'm gone a long time every day during the week. She has plenty of toys, but I wonder if she'd like a companion. I'm thinking of adopting an adult this time, but would another kitten would be better? -- E.C., via e-mail

A: Considering the youth of your present cat, I think adopting another cat is a great idea that will almost certainly add to her quality of life. I also recommend choosing an adult over a kitten. Considering how little time you have for raising a kitten, a well-mannered adult cat seems the perfect addition.

But that's not the only reason.

Once kitten season starts, even the sweetest, handsomest and most well-mannered cats run out of time before anyone recognizes them for the wonderful companions they are and adopt them.

The sole reason: Cats just aren't as cute as kittens. Being overlooked at the shelter is bad news for the cats, of course, but it's also unfortunate for many people who don't realize that an adult cat may, in many cases, be a better choice than a kitten. Sure, kittens are cute, but they also can be a bit of a trial as they grow up. They need extra time, extra training and extra tolerance for all those crazy things that kittens do.

Adding a second cat will require patience, but it usually works out.

Since the worst territorial spats are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned. You should also take the new cat or kitten to your veterinarian before bringing him home, to be certified free of parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia.

Don't force the cats together, but rather set them up in different parts of the house with their own bowls, scratching posts and litter boxes and let them work out their own timetable for introductions.

June is Adopt-A-Cat Month at many of the nation's shelters, so there's no time like the present to get your cat a companion.

Rabies shots: How often?

Q: How often do dogs need a rabies shot? I've heard "every year" and "every three years." I don't want to pay for something I don't have to. -- E.L., via e-mail

A: Your dog needs to be revaccinated at regular intervals determined by the local or state law in your area. While most states require vaccination every three years -- Florida recently became the 35th such state -- others insist on an annual rabies shot.

When it comes to rabies, the laws aren't really for your pet's benefit; they're for yours. While the risk of contracting rabies from your pet may be small, the disease is deadly if not caught early. People can die from rabies, which is why the law is so unforgiving on the topic of vaccinations.

If you have questions regarding the law in your area, call your local animal-control agency.

Incidentally, while the focus of rabies prevention has traditionally been on dogs, cases of feline rabies are not uncommon. Even if a rabies vaccine is not required by law in your area, public-health officials strongly urge vaccinating cats as well. And more and more places are requiring it.

The bottom line: Keeping your pets' rabies vaccinations current is just good common sense.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET PLATES

Breed love on a plate

When it comes to dogs, everyone has favorites among the breeds. When it comes to vanity license plates, many people choose to share those favorites. This week's reader submissions fall into that category, and one of the plates even shows off Ohio's new pet-friendly plates. (For more information, go to www.petsohio.com.) The plates:

-- LUVBDOG. Ohio offered the PetsOhio plate this year, and because we love our English bulldog, Bridget Jones, I chose "LUVBDOG." She is the most beautiful dog ever! -- B.C., via e-mail

-- 2SCOTEZ. Ah, yes, the license plate game! Here's a picture of the plates on our Ohio Chrysler 300. We travel with the dogs -- a black Scottie and a wheaton Scottie -- in their pup car seats to South Carolina several times a year. Do we get the double takes! -- B.K. and S.K., via e-mail

(If you have a pet-related license plate send a jpeg digital image and the story behind the plate to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET RX

Don't take chances with puppy, parvo

Socialization is important for young puppies, but so is protection against canine parvovirus. Your puppy should not be exposed to areas frequented by other dogs (such as parks) and should not be introduced to dogs whose vaccination status cannot be determined.

Protection against parvovirus and other diseases is not in place until your puppy's initial vaccinations are behind him. Talk to your veterinarian about how many vaccines are necessary, and what kinds are recommended. The trend these days is to balance vaccine risk and benefit by using the fewest vaccines to get the immune system ready to fight disease.

Vomiting and bloody diarrhea in a puppy is an emergency that requires immediate veterinary assistance. A test at the veterinarian's will determine if the puppy has parvo and, if so, treatment can then begin in an effort to save the pet's life.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Grooming does more than keep cats clean

Cats do their best to keep every hair in order -- and not just for the sake of appearance. Grooming has a number of advantages to your cat, including:

-- Weatherproofing. Separating and smoothing each hair help to improve the fur's insulating abilities, keeping both heat and cold at bay. As a cat grooms, he also distributes the oils from his skin throughout his coat, giving it a measure of waterproofing.

-- Scent-marking. Grooming helps to distribute a cat's scent across his whole body, which cats find very comforting. Scent is so important, a cat often licks himself right after being petted, both to re-establish his own scent and to drink in yours. (And that's not the only grooming act that puts a cat's scent where he wants it: The act of digging his claws into a fence post (outside) or sofa or cat tree (inside) not only keeps his nails sharp, but also leaves secretions from glands in his paws on the object he fancies.)

-- Parasite and burr control. Although your cat can't keep up with a major flea and tick infestation, he does his best by nibbling the pests off his body. Burrs and other things that get caught on the fur are also removed during a cat's grooming sessions.

-- Sociality. In a multicat household, especially one with littermates, you often see cats grooming each other. This behavior -- which is also performed on beloved humans -- is a way of reinforcing a cat's connection to his family.

Grooming has so many benefits that you can easily see why, next to sleeping, it's one of the most important tasks on any cat's list.

ON THE WEB

Reports to track airline pet deaths

Airlines must now include the number of killed, lost or injured pets on reports that previously listed only mishandled baggage, late departures and other annoyances of travel.

Animal activists says the reports will make air travel safer by allowing people to choose airlines with good safety records when it comes to pets. Industry representatives warn the reporting requirement may make those airlines that still allow pets more likely to join those that don't. The reports will be posted on the U.S. Department of Transportation's Web site at http://airconsumer.ost.dot.gov/reports/. The agency also offers pet travel regulations at http://airconsumer.ost.dot.gov/publications/animals.htm.

The Humane Society of the United States (hsus.org) has information on how to minimize risks for pets traveling by air, and the American Kennel Club (akc.org) keeps a current list of airline policies and fees for pets, in addition to its own page of air-travel tips.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Heat Hazards

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | June 13th, 2005

The long days of summer are a great time to have -- or be -- a pet. But this glorious season for outdoor activities is not without its hazards. Knowing what to look out for is half the battle.

The hazards of summer include:

-- Heat risks. Cats have enough sense to nap on warm afternoons, but dogs do not. If you let them, they'll go where you do, even if it's too hot. Dogs are not good at keeping themselves cool, and they rely on us to keep them out of trouble.

The fastest way to get your dog into trouble is to leave him in the car. Even a few minutes in a car on a warm day can kill a dog, so it's best never to take a chance.

Limit exercise to the coolest part of the day, no matter how happy your dog is to participate when it's warmer. Even in the cooler part of the day, watch for signs of trouble: Glassy eyes and frantic panting indicate a dog who needs help.

Remember that older, obese or snort-nosed dogs are less heat-tolerant, and that all dogs need constant access to shade and an endless supply of cool, clean water.

-- Gardening risks. Protect your pets from poisonous plants, troublesome garden materials or yard chemicals. Check with the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA.org/APCC) to be sure your plants are pet-safe, and put any ones that aren't on the other side of a fence from your animals. Popular mulches made from cocoa hulls can be appealing to dogs, but some of these products have been shown to be hazardous. Again, if you use them, use them in areas off-limits to your pets.

Even the compost pile can be a problem, since some dogs learn the piles are a great source of food and will dig through to eat half-rotted materials. That's a habit that could earn your pet a trip to the veterinarian, so keep the compost pile off-limits, too.

Finally, be sure to use any pesticides or fertilizers according to label directions, and let lawn chemicals dry before allowing your pet access to the yard. Snail and rodent bait can kill pets, so do not use it in areas where animals have access.

-- Poison risks. In addition to garden chemicals, other common products can present a grave risk to pets. Automotive coolant is deadly even in small amounts, so be sure to clean up all fluids completely and store all products carefully. Cleaners, solvents, paints, cleaners and pool supplies also need to be handled and stored properly.

-- Escape risks. With many children home from school and coming in and out of the house with friends, pets have more opportunity to slip out unnoticed and be lost.

The best way to deal with this risk is through prevention. Check your yard for loose or missing boards, and install self-closing mechanisms on all gates. Since leaving doors open seems a part of childhood, you may have difficulty getting help from the kids, but it's certainly worth trying to get them to keep doors closed.

A collar and ID tag are always a good preventive measure and will help get your pet home if he's lost.

-- Field risks. If your hiking takes you through open fields or wooded areas, be sure to check your dog afterward for foxtails and ticks. The spiky seed carrier of dried grasses, a foxtail will burrow deep into the ears or flesh of an animal, and it will need to be removed by a veterinarian if it gets in a place your pet can't reach or is left to fester.

As for ticks, use tweezers or a tick-remover -- not your hands -- to get at these pests, pulling away from the tick head with strong, steady pressure. Dispose of the pest without touching it, and keep an eye on the spot for a few days to make sure no infection develops.

With a little bit of awareness, you and your pet will have nothing but enjoyment this summer.

SIDEBAR

A careful Fourth

Take the hazards of summer and add fireworks, and you have the Fourth of July, a scary and dangerous holiday for many pets.

If your pet finds fireworks terrifying, talk to your veterinarian now about tranquilizers that will help as the holiday gets closer. Many pet lovers also believe the homeopathic product Rescue Remedy, available in health-food stores, helps to calm a nervous pet.

Be sure your pets are secure when the noise begins -- a quiet space indoors is ideal -- because scared pets are more likely to escape the house or yard and be hit by cars or lost forever. Prepare for the worst by making sure your pets have collars and tags, and that you know where to go for holiday veterinary care. -- G.S.

Q&A

Lively finches fine kids' pet

Q: My 11-year-old daughter has a friend who has finches. She now wants some, too. Are they good pets for children? Also, how can we teach the pets we already have (two cats and a Westie) to leave the birds alone? -- E.C., via e-mail

A: Zebra and society finches are the "easy keepers" of the finch group, hardy little guys who'll bring energy and sound into your home. They're not dreadfully expensive to acquire, set up or maintain. Unlike hookbills -- budgies, cockatiels and parrots -- who need and desire physical interaction, finches will be happiest if you leave them alone. That's really the only downside of them as a children's pet: They're not the best pet for a child who wants a hands-on pet experience. But since your daughter already has a cats and a dog, perhaps she'll be happy just to watch these lively birds.

As for keeping the finches safe from the other pets, the cage they'll spend their lives in will do most of the protecting. You might also consider keeping the door to your daughter's room closed when no one's around so the other pets won't pester them.

If you do get finches, be sure to get them a cage with lots of room. Since cage-bound birds need to fly for exercise, choose a cage that's more horizontal than vertical, to give them room to flit from side to side. A reputable bird shop will be able to set you up with everything you need, including healthy finches.

No cat food for dog

Q: I cannot keep my dog out of the cat's food dish. She much prefers the cat's kibble to her own. I have trouble interesting her in her own dish unless I add canned food or broth. She's a small dog, a poodle mix not much larger than the cat. Is there any harm in feeding them both cat food? -- M.U., via e-mail

A: Because cats are true predators, they require high levels of protein in their food, more so than dogs, who are as much scavengers as predators. The protein level is why dogs love cat food -- and also why they're so fond of cruising for disgusting litter box "snacks."

Cats are better off eating cat food, and dogs are better off eating dog food. For some dogs, the higher protein levels in cat food can cause health problems.

No matter what your dog thinks, she needs to stick to her own food. For large dogs, a cat-sized hole in an interior door will keep food and the litter box off-limits. Small dogs can be thwarted by a baby gate, which is easy for most cats to clear but impossible for small dogs to get over. My friend Jan tipped a milk crate on its side and secured it into a corner with the open side facing the walls. The cats can jump up, over and in, but the dog can only drool from the other side.

Another option: Try elevated dining for the cats -- on a counter, a washing machine or even a sturdy shelf.

As for getting your dog interested in her food again, use the "tough love" method. Allow her 15 minutes to eat her meal in a quiet, secure place and then pick up the dish until the next feeding session. No treats in between. In a day or so, her hunger strike will be over, I assure you.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Baby gates great for puppy-raising

With a new puppy in the house, I am once again grateful for the invention of the baby gate. There's nothing better for keeping a puppy safe or for saving your sanity when you need some puppy-less time.

Baby gates help with house-training as well as keeping puppy destructiveness at a minimum. You can gate off a small area (in my house, the puppy space is a small hallway between two baby gates), add a mat for bedding, leave chew toys for teething and boredom, and then leave your puppy alone for an hour or two while you do chores or run errands. Time-outs behind baby gates are also great for giving established pets a break from a playful puppy.

The variety of baby-gate designs are nearly endless. These days they come in metal, wood, high-impact plastic and even fabric, and in all sorts of heights with designs to fit openings of all sizes. Permanent installations are great for long-term animal management, while tension-bar arrangements will keep puppies and most small dogs confined. Some gates have walk-through features so you won't trip stepping over them.

The pet retailer Doctors Foster and Smith (800-826-7206; www.drsfostersmith.com) has one of the largest selections of baby gates, with something to fit every door and every kind or age of dog.

PET Rx

Prevention key to heartworm risk

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes, which pick up the microscopic heartworm larvae called microfilaria when they draw blood from an infected animal. They share the parasites when they bite another animal. Once in a new host, the larvae make their way to heart, where they grow to be 9 to 14 inches long, blocking the flow of blood and causing severe damage and possibly death.

Most infested pets are brought to the veterinarian after their owners noticed them coughing at night, coughing after exercise, or experiencing a more general loss in condition. By the time the symptoms are noticed, however, a great deal of damage has usually been done, not only to the heart, but also to other organs such as the kidneys, which rely on a steady flow of blood to operate.

Because of the risk and expense of treating a heartworm infestation, preventive care remains an essential part of preventive medicine. Monthly heartworm prevention has been shown to be safe and effective for most pets. Don't ignore this essential protection: Talk to your veterinarian.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Don't delay when it's time to spay

When in comes to spaying and neutering cats, the sooner the better. A kitten can get pregnant before she's fully grown, adding to the tragic problem of pet overpopulation.

Veterinary organizations as large as the American Veterinary Medical Association have long endorsed early spaying and neutering on animals as young as 8 weeks. Many humane associations and shelters are already doing so.

At 8 weeks, 8 months or even 8 years, there's no reason to wait -- and a lot of reasons to go forward. Keeping kittens from being parents is the only way to prevent future kittens from dying for the lack of a home. Spaying and neutering are an easy way to stop the revolving-door "kitten out, kittens in" game shelters play -- and lose -- every summer. And that's not all: Spaying and neutering offer some real health and behavior benefits.

Neutered males are less likely to roam and less likely to fight. Neutering greatly reduces the problems with urine spraying and will give your cat a chance at the longest life possible. With all that "catting about," unneutered males are prime candidates for getting run over or for picking up deadly contagious diseases through mating or fighting.

Spayed females are more attentive and loving because they're not spending all their time looking for mates. Females are in heat nearly nonstop until they become pregnant, and they're also at a higher risk for accidental death or contagious disease.

Female cats who are looking for mates can be very difficult to live with. They cry. They roll. They rub. They yowl. They can behave in such strange ways that nearly every veterinarian has a story of the pet lover who brought a cat in convinced the animal was in great pain, maybe even dying -- but she was really just in heat. -- G.S.

ON THE WEB

Sitters, kennels fill up quickly

If you'll be traveling without your pets this summer, you'd better start scrambling for pet care. That's because pet sitters and boarding facilities get booked far in advance during popular travel periods.

If you don't already have a favorite sitter or boarding facility, ask friends, family or co-workers for recommendations. Your veterinarian or groomer might also have some ideas or maybe facilities for boarding in-house. Since many students have summers off from school, you might also consider looking for responsible teens or young adults who can take care of your pets.

Good information on boarding kennels and professional pet sitters can be found on the Web sites of their trade associations. The American Boarding Kennel Association (www.abka.com) and Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) offer lists of member businesses, along with helpful advice on how to choose a reputable outfit to look after your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Clip Job

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | June 6th, 2005

Forget the better mousetrap: Build a better nail-trimmer, and grateful pet lovers will beat a path to your door.

Or at least that's the idea behind a trio of new nail-trimmers that takes the age-old designs and improves on them, a little or a lot. Here's the rundown:

-- SmartTrim. Pick of the litter. One of several new pet-related products brought out by the folks behind the incredibly successful Greenies dog treats, the SmartTrim is lightweight and easy to use. It features a unique adjustable guard that limits the amount of nail that can be clipped each time. Trimmings fall into a container that can be cleaned out by opening a little door on the unit. A battery-operated grinder is in the handle for finishing off the job, and batteries are included. (Suggested retail: $30)

-- Bamboo Care. In both scissor and guillotine styles and two sizes, Bamboo's nail clipper benefits from the company's strength in design and efficiency. The clipper is attractive and comfortable in the hand, and its handles contain both a file and styptic powder container for stopping blood if the quick is nicked. Like most of Bamboo's pet products, it's an improvement on an age-old design. (Suggested retail: $10 to $15, with two-pack refills of styptic powder tubes sold for $5)

-- Careful Clipper. A basic guillotine-style clipper with a twist: A flexible light is attached to shine through the nails and show where the quick is. While not a problem with dogs with white nails, finding the quick can be hard with black nails. You can do the same thing with a penlight if you have at least three hands, but the Careful Clipper makes handling the light much easier. Batteries included. (Suggested retail: $19)

As with any nail-trimming, you won't get anywhere trying to force your pet to cooperate. If you have a pet who hates to have his nails trimmed, you need to back up and start over.

Spend some time reintroducing the clippers and associating their presence with treats and praise. After your pet is comfortable with this step, advance to touching the paw and eventually to the nail with the clippers, with the accompaniment of more treats and praise. Soon, you'll be able to cut a tiny bit off one nail. Treat, praise and call it a day. Don't advance to the next step until your pet is comfortable with the step you're on. Eventually, cutting nails will not be a reason for a wrestling match.

When my oldest retriever came to me, he was young, strong and utterly uncooperative when it came to having his nails trimmed. After several weeks of retraining, he learned to tolerate nail trims and hasn't been a problem since. I no longer have to treat him at every stage of the procedure, but he does appreciate the steady supply of praise and the dog cookie at the end of the job.

SIDEBAR

Grinding nails an option

Some dogs find it more tolerable to have their nails ground rather than clipped. As with clipping nails, going slowly and using lots of praise and treats along the way is key to a good experience for both you and your pet.

Dremel and Oster both make rotary grinders intended solely for pet use, but you can just as easily use any regular rotary grinding tool. I use a corded Dremel with a medium sandpaper head. (For my parrot, though, I like Dremel's small cordless pet model No. 761-01, with a suggested retail of $30.)

In the early stages of training, just let your dog see the grinder, and praise and treat. In a later session, turn the grinder on and praise and treat. Praise and treat for your dog progressively, allowing the grinder to get closer to a paw and to briefly touch a nail tip. The first time you grind -- which may be several sessions after the first introduction -- be happy with working a little with just one nail and don't forget to praise and treat.

Be sure to either clip the hair of longhaired dogs or hold it back so it won't get wound in the shaft of the grinder. Support the dog's toe, but don't squeeze too hard. Hold the grinder against the nail for no more than a couple of seconds at a time to prevent heat buildup, and don't push the grinder against the nail -- just hold it there and let the grinder do the work.

Grind across the bottom and then carefully in from the tip of the nail. If you do this weekly, the quick will recede, and you'll be able to maintain short nails on your dog with ease.

Q&A

Losing baby teeth normal for pups

Q: My daughter got us a puppy for her birthday. He is supposed to be a golden and something else. He's about 3 months old. I am a little concerned because he is losing his baby teeth. Is that normal? We did call the vet, and he said it was OK. What do you think? We had a golden retriever for 14 years, and I don't ever remember her losing her teeth. -- E.C., via e-mail

A: Your veterinarian is right. It's perfectly normal for your puppy to be losing his baby teeth. Puppies have 28 of those sharp little puppy teeth, and they're usually replaced by 42 permanent ones by the age of 4 months.

It's not unusual to overlook the loss of puppy teeth. Sometimes they're swallowed; others may land in the grass or somewhere else they'll be hard to spot. Sometimes, though, they're stubborn about leaving, hanging on even when their replacement has erupted. If you observe a double row of teeth, call your veterinarian -- the baby teeth have worn out their welcome and may need to be surgically removed.

Teething can be irritating or even painful for a pup. Be sure to provide lots of chew toys to help your pup through the process. Don't blame your puppy if he finds things to chew on -- pick up your stuff! If you find him with something you don't want chewed, substitute an appropriate chew toy and praise him for using it. Frozen marrow bones can feel really good on gums while a puppy is teething and are a great (if messy) teething aid.

Wait for older pup

Q: What is the right age to take home a puppy? We are looking at a litter the breeder says will be weaned and ready to go at 4 weeks, which seems young to us. -- S.N., via e-mail

A: It isn't 4 weeks, that's for sure. Seven weeks is the youngest a puppy should ever leave his littermates. Weaning shouldn't be the trigger for placing the puppies, and the seller who thinks so is ill-informed.

Puppies pick up some important lessons from their mom and their littermates in their fourth, fifth and sixth weeks of life, learning the complex social language that will not only help him get along with other dogs later, but will also help you to train your new pup.

Some breeders, especially those with small breeds, hold onto their puppies beyond seven weeks, primarily because they're so delicate. That's fine, as long as you've got a breeder who understands the importance of socializing -- safely introducing puppies to new sights, new sounds, and to people of all ages and both genders.

If you cannot convince the seller to keep the puppies together for an extra three weeks, my suggestion is to find another breeder, one well-versed in the developmental stages of dogs. Or go to a good shelter, where young puppies are placed with others of their age and are socialized by savvy volunteers.

You want to get your relationship with your puppy started right, and that "right start" happens before you ever bring your new dog home. Choosing the right source for your pup is just as important as choosing the right breed or mix.

Those extra couple of weeks of learning from littermates are extremely important when it comes to starting off a pup right. A puppy-seller who doesn't understand or doesn't care about critical puppy development is best avoided.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Know the signs of dehydration

Dehydration can be a serious problem demanding urgent intervention by a veterinarian.

To check for dehydration, pull up a "tent" of skin over the shoulders of your dog or cat. In a healthy pet, the skin will immediately slide back into place. In a pet with mild dehydration, the skin will be slow to return to its normal position.

In severe dehydration, the skin will remain in the "tent" position. The animal's mouth and gums may also be dry, with thick or ropey saliva, and eyes may appear sunken into the sockets. An animal with any of these symptoms is in need of immediate veterinary care.

A pet with mild dehydration can be helped by being moved into a cool area and offered small amounts of water every few minutes. Don't allow a dehydrated pet to drink all she wants, and don't offer dry food.

If you're in doubt as to how serious the situation is, call your veterinarian for advice.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Basset hounds fans love Daily Drool

The folks behind the Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) love basset hounds and want to share their admiration of the breed with other like-minded people. The well-designed Web site offers everything you could want in the way of information about bassets, along with plenty of entertaining diversions such as e-cards, games, images and more.

A definite labor of love, the Web site supports itself and basset rescue through donations, and with the proceeds from steering people toward Drool-endorsed books and other products. Either way, it's a good site to support and a good cause, too.

BREED TYPE

Friendly malamute needs exercise, grooming

They shed, they roam, they dig, they pull on the leash, and they eat like horses. Why, you might wonder, does anyone on Earth want an Alaskan Malamute?

It's because, like a force of nature or an Arctic wind, the Malamute is hard to resist. Handsome, smart, friendly, exuberant, joyful and possessed of an enormous curiosity, these dogs are crazy about people and great with kids.

Of course, as with all large, powerful dogs, careful supervision with children is required. And as with all intelligent dogs, when bored they can get into a lot of mischief. These dogs can and will destroy a car interior or even the wall of a house. The cure and the prevention are the same: Mals need exercise (lots of it) every single day -- rain, shine or blizzard.

That exercise can't take the form of running free. That's not because a Malamute will ever leave his territory; he won't. It's because his territory is the entire continent of North America, and most Mals are eyeing South America, too. So a good fence is not optional equipment.

Malamutes need daily brushing to control their shedding, although "control" may be a bit optimistic: Think big drifts of hair everywhere, even in rooms that are off-limits to dogs. On top of that, twice a year, the Malamute will "blow coat," and you may need a professional groomer to rescue you from that avalanche of fur.

Malamutes suffer from some genetic health problems, and a very few can have temperament problems. So obtain your dog only from a reputable rescue organization or an experienced breeder who does genetic screening tests on his or her dogs. Do not accept assurances that "My lines don't have these problems." Insist on written documentation.

And buy a really powerful vacuum cleaner. -- Christie Keith, doghobbyist.com

THE SCOOP

Great pet pictures easier than ever

Ever wonder how the pros get those adorable pictures of dogs and cats nuzzling for ads and commercials? It's easy to get your pet to kiss your kid for a picture using an old trick of the pros.

The trick: a dab of butter or margarine in just the right spot. You can't see it, but your pet can smell it and won't be able to wait to lick it off your child's cheek.

Another trick: To get your dog's attention for a picture, rattle keys or squish a squeaky toy. If you're looking for that super-alert look, throw the toy in the direction you want your dog to look. That's what dog-show photographers do.

Digital photography makes it easy to get great pictures. You can take hundreds of pictures and print just the best without going broke on film or developing costs.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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