The long days of summer are a great time to have -- or be -- a pet. But this glorious season for outdoor activities is not without its hazards. Knowing what to look out for is half the battle.

The hazards of summer include:

-- Heat risks. Cats have enough sense to nap on warm afternoons, but dogs do not. If you let them, they'll go where you do, even if it's too hot. Dogs are not good at keeping themselves cool, and they rely on us to keep them out of trouble.

The fastest way to get your dog into trouble is to leave him in the car. Even a few minutes in a car on a warm day can kill a dog, so it's best never to take a chance.

Limit exercise to the coolest part of the day, no matter how happy your dog is to participate when it's warmer. Even in the cooler part of the day, watch for signs of trouble: Glassy eyes and frantic panting indicate a dog who needs help.

Remember that older, obese or snort-nosed dogs are less heat-tolerant, and that all dogs need constant access to shade and an endless supply of cool, clean water.

-- Gardening risks. Protect your pets from poisonous plants, troublesome garden materials or yard chemicals. Check with the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA.org/APCC) to be sure your plants are pet-safe, and put any ones that aren't on the other side of a fence from your animals. Popular mulches made from cocoa hulls can be appealing to dogs, but some of these products have been shown to be hazardous. Again, if you use them, use them in areas off-limits to your pets.

Even the compost pile can be a problem, since some dogs learn the piles are a great source of food and will dig through to eat half-rotted materials. That's a habit that could earn your pet a trip to the veterinarian, so keep the compost pile off-limits, too.

Finally, be sure to use any pesticides or fertilizers according to label directions, and let lawn chemicals dry before allowing your pet access to the yard. Snail and rodent bait can kill pets, so do not use it in areas where animals have access.

-- Poison risks. In addition to garden chemicals, other common products can present a grave risk to pets. Automotive coolant is deadly even in small amounts, so be sure to clean up all fluids completely and store all products carefully. Cleaners, solvents, paints, cleaners and pool supplies also need to be handled and stored properly.

-- Escape risks. With many children home from school and coming in and out of the house with friends, pets have more opportunity to slip out unnoticed and be lost.

The best way to deal with this risk is through prevention. Check your yard for loose or missing boards, and install self-closing mechanisms on all gates. Since leaving doors open seems a part of childhood, you may have difficulty getting help from the kids, but it's certainly worth trying to get them to keep doors closed.

A collar and ID tag are always a good preventive measure and will help get your pet home if he's lost.

-- Field risks. If your hiking takes you through open fields or wooded areas, be sure to check your dog afterward for foxtails and ticks. The spiky seed carrier of dried grasses, a foxtail will burrow deep into the ears or flesh of an animal, and it will need to be removed by a veterinarian if it gets in a place your pet can't reach or is left to fester.

As for ticks, use tweezers or a tick-remover -- not your hands -- to get at these pests, pulling away from the tick head with strong, steady pressure. Dispose of the pest without touching it, and keep an eye on the spot for a few days to make sure no infection develops.

With a little bit of awareness, you and your pet will have nothing but enjoyment this summer.

SIDEBAR

A careful Fourth

Take the hazards of summer and add fireworks, and you have the Fourth of July, a scary and dangerous holiday for many pets.

If your pet finds fireworks terrifying, talk to your veterinarian now about tranquilizers that will help as the holiday gets closer. Many pet lovers also believe the homeopathic product Rescue Remedy, available in health-food stores, helps to calm a nervous pet.

Be sure your pets are secure when the noise begins -- a quiet space indoors is ideal -- because scared pets are more likely to escape the house or yard and be hit by cars or lost forever. Prepare for the worst by making sure your pets have collars and tags, and that you know where to go for holiday veterinary care. -- G.S.

Q&A

Lively finches fine kids' pet

Q: My 11-year-old daughter has a friend who has finches. She now wants some, too. Are they good pets for children? Also, how can we teach the pets we already have (two cats and a Westie) to leave the birds alone? -- E.C., via e-mail

A: Zebra and society finches are the "easy keepers" of the finch group, hardy little guys who'll bring energy and sound into your home. They're not dreadfully expensive to acquire, set up or maintain. Unlike hookbills -- budgies, cockatiels and parrots -- who need and desire physical interaction, finches will be happiest if you leave them alone. That's really the only downside of them as a children's pet: They're not the best pet for a child who wants a hands-on pet experience. But since your daughter already has a cats and a dog, perhaps she'll be happy just to watch these lively birds.

As for keeping the finches safe from the other pets, the cage they'll spend their lives in will do most of the protecting. You might also consider keeping the door to your daughter's room closed when no one's around so the other pets won't pester them.

If you do get finches, be sure to get them a cage with lots of room. Since cage-bound birds need to fly for exercise, choose a cage that's more horizontal than vertical, to give them room to flit from side to side. A reputable bird shop will be able to set you up with everything you need, including healthy finches.

No cat food for dog

Q: I cannot keep my dog out of the cat's food dish. She much prefers the cat's kibble to her own. I have trouble interesting her in her own dish unless I add canned food or broth. She's a small dog, a poodle mix not much larger than the cat. Is there any harm in feeding them both cat food? -- M.U., via e-mail

A: Because cats are true predators, they require high levels of protein in their food, more so than dogs, who are as much scavengers as predators. The protein level is why dogs love cat food -- and also why they're so fond of cruising for disgusting litter box "snacks."

Cats are better off eating cat food, and dogs are better off eating dog food. For some dogs, the higher protein levels in cat food can cause health problems.

No matter what your dog thinks, she needs to stick to her own food. For large dogs, a cat-sized hole in an interior door will keep food and the litter box off-limits. Small dogs can be thwarted by a baby gate, which is easy for most cats to clear but impossible for small dogs to get over. My friend Jan tipped a milk crate on its side and secured it into a corner with the open side facing the walls. The cats can jump up, over and in, but the dog can only drool from the other side.

Another option: Try elevated dining for the cats -- on a counter, a washing machine or even a sturdy shelf.

As for getting your dog interested in her food again, use the "tough love" method. Allow her 15 minutes to eat her meal in a quiet, secure place and then pick up the dish until the next feeding session. No treats in between. In a day or so, her hunger strike will be over, I assure you.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Baby gates great for puppy-raising

With a new puppy in the house, I am once again grateful for the invention of the baby gate. There's nothing better for keeping a puppy safe or for saving your sanity when you need some puppy-less time.

Baby gates help with house-training as well as keeping puppy destructiveness at a minimum. You can gate off a small area (in my house, the puppy space is a small hallway between two baby gates), add a mat for bedding, leave chew toys for teething and boredom, and then leave your puppy alone for an hour or two while you do chores or run errands. Time-outs behind baby gates are also great for giving established pets a break from a playful puppy.

The variety of baby-gate designs are nearly endless. These days they come in metal, wood, high-impact plastic and even fabric, and in all sorts of heights with designs to fit openings of all sizes. Permanent installations are great for long-term animal management, while tension-bar arrangements will keep puppies and most small dogs confined. Some gates have walk-through features so you won't trip stepping over them.

The pet retailer Doctors Foster and Smith (800-826-7206; www.drsfostersmith.com) has one of the largest selections of baby gates, with something to fit every door and every kind or age of dog.

PET Rx

Prevention key to heartworm risk

Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes, which pick up the microscopic heartworm larvae called microfilaria when they draw blood from an infected animal. They share the parasites when they bite another animal. Once in a new host, the larvae make their way to heart, where they grow to be 9 to 14 inches long, blocking the flow of blood and causing severe damage and possibly death.

Most infested pets are brought to the veterinarian after their owners noticed them coughing at night, coughing after exercise, or experiencing a more general loss in condition. By the time the symptoms are noticed, however, a great deal of damage has usually been done, not only to the heart, but also to other organs such as the kidneys, which rely on a steady flow of blood to operate.

Because of the risk and expense of treating a heartworm infestation, preventive care remains an essential part of preventive medicine. Monthly heartworm prevention has been shown to be safe and effective for most pets. Don't ignore this essential protection: Talk to your veterinarian.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Don't delay when it's time to spay

When in comes to spaying and neutering cats, the sooner the better. A kitten can get pregnant before she's fully grown, adding to the tragic problem of pet overpopulation.

Veterinary organizations as large as the American Veterinary Medical Association have long endorsed early spaying and neutering on animals as young as 8 weeks. Many humane associations and shelters are already doing so.

At 8 weeks, 8 months or even 8 years, there's no reason to wait -- and a lot of reasons to go forward. Keeping kittens from being parents is the only way to prevent future kittens from dying for the lack of a home. Spaying and neutering are an easy way to stop the revolving-door "kitten out, kittens in" game shelters play -- and lose -- every summer. And that's not all: Spaying and neutering offer some real health and behavior benefits.

Neutered males are less likely to roam and less likely to fight. Neutering greatly reduces the problems with urine spraying and will give your cat a chance at the longest life possible. With all that "catting about," unneutered males are prime candidates for getting run over or for picking up deadly contagious diseases through mating or fighting.

Spayed females are more attentive and loving because they're not spending all their time looking for mates. Females are in heat nearly nonstop until they become pregnant, and they're also at a higher risk for accidental death or contagious disease.

Female cats who are looking for mates can be very difficult to live with. They cry. They roll. They rub. They yowl. They can behave in such strange ways that nearly every veterinarian has a story of the pet lover who brought a cat in convinced the animal was in great pain, maybe even dying -- but she was really just in heat. -- G.S.

ON THE WEB

Sitters, kennels fill up quickly

If you'll be traveling without your pets this summer, you'd better start scrambling for pet care. That's because pet sitters and boarding facilities get booked far in advance during popular travel periods.

If you don't already have a favorite sitter or boarding facility, ask friends, family or co-workers for recommendations. Your veterinarian or groomer might also have some ideas or maybe facilities for boarding in-house. Since many students have summers off from school, you might also consider looking for responsible teens or young adults who can take care of your pets.

Good information on boarding kennels and professional pet sitters can be found on the Web sites of their trade associations. The American Boarding Kennel Association (www.abka.com) and Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) offer lists of member businesses, along with helpful advice on how to choose a reputable outfit to look after your pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Forget the better mousetrap: Build a better nail-trimmer, and grateful pet lovers will beat a path to your door.

Or at least that's the idea behind a trio of new nail-trimmers that takes the age-old designs and improves on them, a little or a lot. Here's the rundown:

-- SmartTrim. Pick of the litter. One of several new pet-related products brought out by the folks behind the incredibly successful Greenies dog treats, the SmartTrim is lightweight and easy to use. It features a unique adjustable guard that limits the amount of nail that can be clipped each time. Trimmings fall into a container that can be cleaned out by opening a little door on the unit. A battery-operated grinder is in the handle for finishing off the job, and batteries are included. (Suggested retail: $30)

-- Bamboo Care. In both scissor and guillotine styles and two sizes, Bamboo's nail clipper benefits from the company's strength in design and efficiency. The clipper is attractive and comfortable in the hand, and its handles contain both a file and styptic powder container for stopping blood if the quick is nicked. Like most of Bamboo's pet products, it's an improvement on an age-old design. (Suggested retail: $10 to $15, with two-pack refills of styptic powder tubes sold for $5)

-- Careful Clipper. A basic guillotine-style clipper with a twist: A flexible light is attached to shine through the nails and show where the quick is. While not a problem with dogs with white nails, finding the quick can be hard with black nails. You can do the same thing with a penlight if you have at least three hands, but the Careful Clipper makes handling the light much easier. Batteries included. (Suggested retail: $19)

As with any nail-trimming, you won't get anywhere trying to force your pet to cooperate. If you have a pet who hates to have his nails trimmed, you need to back up and start over.

Spend some time reintroducing the clippers and associating their presence with treats and praise. After your pet is comfortable with this step, advance to touching the paw and eventually to the nail with the clippers, with the accompaniment of more treats and praise. Soon, you'll be able to cut a tiny bit off one nail. Treat, praise and call it a day. Don't advance to the next step until your pet is comfortable with the step you're on. Eventually, cutting nails will not be a reason for a wrestling match.

When my oldest retriever came to me, he was young, strong and utterly uncooperative when it came to having his nails trimmed. After several weeks of retraining, he learned to tolerate nail trims and hasn't been a problem since. I no longer have to treat him at every stage of the procedure, but he does appreciate the steady supply of praise and the dog cookie at the end of the job.

SIDEBAR

Grinding nails an option

Some dogs find it more tolerable to have their nails ground rather than clipped. As with clipping nails, going slowly and using lots of praise and treats along the way is key to a good experience for both you and your pet.

Dremel and Oster both make rotary grinders intended solely for pet use, but you can just as easily use any regular rotary grinding tool. I use a corded Dremel with a medium sandpaper head. (For my parrot, though, I like Dremel's small cordless pet model No. 761-01, with a suggested retail of $30.)

In the early stages of training, just let your dog see the grinder, and praise and treat. In a later session, turn the grinder on and praise and treat. Praise and treat for your dog progressively, allowing the grinder to get closer to a paw and to briefly touch a nail tip. The first time you grind -- which may be several sessions after the first introduction -- be happy with working a little with just one nail and don't forget to praise and treat.

Be sure to either clip the hair of longhaired dogs or hold it back so it won't get wound in the shaft of the grinder. Support the dog's toe, but don't squeeze too hard. Hold the grinder against the nail for no more than a couple of seconds at a time to prevent heat buildup, and don't push the grinder against the nail -- just hold it there and let the grinder do the work.

Grind across the bottom and then carefully in from the tip of the nail. If you do this weekly, the quick will recede, and you'll be able to maintain short nails on your dog with ease.

Q&A

Losing baby teeth normal for pups

Q: My daughter got us a puppy for her birthday. He is supposed to be a golden and something else. He's about 3 months old. I am a little concerned because he is losing his baby teeth. Is that normal? We did call the vet, and he said it was OK. What do you think? We had a golden retriever for 14 years, and I don't ever remember her losing her teeth. -- E.C., via e-mail

A: Your veterinarian is right. It's perfectly normal for your puppy to be losing his baby teeth. Puppies have 28 of those sharp little puppy teeth, and they're usually replaced by 42 permanent ones by the age of 4 months.

It's not unusual to overlook the loss of puppy teeth. Sometimes they're swallowed; others may land in the grass or somewhere else they'll be hard to spot. Sometimes, though, they're stubborn about leaving, hanging on even when their replacement has erupted. If you observe a double row of teeth, call your veterinarian -- the baby teeth have worn out their welcome and may need to be surgically removed.

Teething can be irritating or even painful for a pup. Be sure to provide lots of chew toys to help your pup through the process. Don't blame your puppy if he finds things to chew on -- pick up your stuff! If you find him with something you don't want chewed, substitute an appropriate chew toy and praise him for using it. Frozen marrow bones can feel really good on gums while a puppy is teething and are a great (if messy) teething aid.

Wait for older pup

Q: What is the right age to take home a puppy? We are looking at a litter the breeder says will be weaned and ready to go at 4 weeks, which seems young to us. -- S.N., via e-mail

A: It isn't 4 weeks, that's for sure. Seven weeks is the youngest a puppy should ever leave his littermates. Weaning shouldn't be the trigger for placing the puppies, and the seller who thinks so is ill-informed.

Puppies pick up some important lessons from their mom and their littermates in their fourth, fifth and sixth weeks of life, learning the complex social language that will not only help him get along with other dogs later, but will also help you to train your new pup.

Some breeders, especially those with small breeds, hold onto their puppies beyond seven weeks, primarily because they're so delicate. That's fine, as long as you've got a breeder who understands the importance of socializing -- safely introducing puppies to new sights, new sounds, and to people of all ages and both genders.

If you cannot convince the seller to keep the puppies together for an extra three weeks, my suggestion is to find another breeder, one well-versed in the developmental stages of dogs. Or go to a good shelter, where young puppies are placed with others of their age and are socialized by savvy volunteers.

You want to get your relationship with your puppy started right, and that "right start" happens before you ever bring your new dog home. Choosing the right source for your pup is just as important as choosing the right breed or mix.

Those extra couple of weeks of learning from littermates are extremely important when it comes to starting off a pup right. A puppy-seller who doesn't understand or doesn't care about critical puppy development is best avoided.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Know the signs of dehydration

Dehydration can be a serious problem demanding urgent intervention by a veterinarian.

To check for dehydration, pull up a "tent" of skin over the shoulders of your dog or cat. In a healthy pet, the skin will immediately slide back into place. In a pet with mild dehydration, the skin will be slow to return to its normal position.

In severe dehydration, the skin will remain in the "tent" position. The animal's mouth and gums may also be dry, with thick or ropey saliva, and eyes may appear sunken into the sockets. An animal with any of these symptoms is in need of immediate veterinary care.

A pet with mild dehydration can be helped by being moved into a cool area and offered small amounts of water every few minutes. Don't allow a dehydrated pet to drink all she wants, and don't offer dry food.

If you're in doubt as to how serious the situation is, call your veterinarian for advice.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Basset hounds fans love Daily Drool

The folks behind the Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) love basset hounds and want to share their admiration of the breed with other like-minded people. The well-designed Web site offers everything you could want in the way of information about bassets, along with plenty of entertaining diversions such as e-cards, games, images and more.

A definite labor of love, the Web site supports itself and basset rescue through donations, and with the proceeds from steering people toward Drool-endorsed books and other products. Either way, it's a good site to support and a good cause, too.

BREED TYPE

Friendly malamute needs exercise, grooming

They shed, they roam, they dig, they pull on the leash, and they eat like horses. Why, you might wonder, does anyone on Earth want an Alaskan Malamute?

It's because, like a force of nature or an Arctic wind, the Malamute is hard to resist. Handsome, smart, friendly, exuberant, joyful and possessed of an enormous curiosity, these dogs are crazy about people and great with kids.

Of course, as with all large, powerful dogs, careful supervision with children is required. And as with all intelligent dogs, when bored they can get into a lot of mischief. These dogs can and will destroy a car interior or even the wall of a house. The cure and the prevention are the same: Mals need exercise (lots of it) every single day -- rain, shine or blizzard.

That exercise can't take the form of running free. That's not because a Malamute will ever leave his territory; he won't. It's because his territory is the entire continent of North America, and most Mals are eyeing South America, too. So a good fence is not optional equipment.

Malamutes need daily brushing to control their shedding, although "control" may be a bit optimistic: Think big drifts of hair everywhere, even in rooms that are off-limits to dogs. On top of that, twice a year, the Malamute will "blow coat," and you may need a professional groomer to rescue you from that avalanche of fur.

Malamutes suffer from some genetic health problems, and a very few can have temperament problems. So obtain your dog only from a reputable rescue organization or an experienced breeder who does genetic screening tests on his or her dogs. Do not accept assurances that "My lines don't have these problems." Insist on written documentation.

And buy a really powerful vacuum cleaner. -- Christie Keith, doghobbyist.com

THE SCOOP

Great pet pictures easier than ever

Ever wonder how the pros get those adorable pictures of dogs and cats nuzzling for ads and commercials? It's easy to get your pet to kiss your kid for a picture using an old trick of the pros.

The trick: a dab of butter or margarine in just the right spot. You can't see it, but your pet can smell it and won't be able to wait to lick it off your child's cheek.

Another trick: To get your dog's attention for a picture, rattle keys or squish a squeaky toy. If you're looking for that super-alert look, throw the toy in the direction you want your dog to look. That's what dog-show photographers do.

Digital photography makes it easy to get great pictures. You can take hundreds of pictures and print just the best without going broke on film or developing costs.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For those who work to educate people on the cruelty and danger of keeping dogs on chains, the tragic news in April of two children killed by chained dogs within days of each other came as a sad shock but no real surprise.

After all, incidents of this kind are anything but rare. More than 30 times in the last 18 months, a child has been killed by a dog kept on a chain, according to the group Dogs Deserve Better.

"We know that if you isolate a social species, bad things happen," says Stephanie Shain of the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). "You chain a dog and their whole world becomes this pathetic little circle. Little by little, they go crazy.

"One day, a child comes into that circle. You've removed the ability for a dog's fight-or-flight reaction. For the dog, it's either, 'I have to protect this pathetic little circle' or 'I'm tethered and I can't get away.'"

Despite the spate of tragic deaths, in most cases a child is lucky enough to escape with a scare or a minor bite. For dogs, there is no such luck: Either the misery and loneliness continues, or they are put down for the aggression caused by the practice of chaining.

"It has been going on for a long time," said Tammy Sneath Grimes, founder of Dogs Deserve Better. "Even my mother remembers being bitten by a chained dog. The difference is socialization. Once I started fostering these dogs, they became so easily adjusted. They become part of the family."

A lifelong animal lover, Grimes started her fight against chaining when she moved next to a family who kept a chained dog in their yard. The dog was named "Worthless," and that's just how they treated him.

"I watched him on a chain every day for six years," said Grimes. "No one was ever with him, and he got no love or attention. I used to sneak over to pet and feed him. Finally they told me I couldn't do that anymore."

She ended up with the dog, renamed him Bo, and started her group. As a mother of small children, she is driven to educate others on chaining, not only for the dogs but also for the children who may be endangered by a neglected family pet.

"It's a cultural thing," she says. "People grew up with a chained outdoor dog, and so they chain their dogs outside. They're often hostile when I talk to them about it. Sometimes they lie and say the dog comes in at night when the neighbors know better. The fact that they feel they have to lie about it tells me they know on some level it's wrong."

Some animal advocates feel the answer is to pass ordinances against chaining, or at least to limit the number of hours per day a dog can be on a chain. The HSUS is developing model legislation, and some communities have already passed anti-chaining ordinances.

"The shocking part is anyone ever thought it could work, putting a social creature on chain," said Shain of the HSUS.

Activists are hoping that something good will come out of the recent tragedies. Perhaps people who never cared about how miserable their chained dog is will do something about it now that they know the practice can put their children at risk, too.

SIDEBAR

Alternatives to chaining

Making a dog a full member of the family with access to a fenced yard, along with training and socializing, is the best way to have a safe, happy pet.

When a fence isn't possible, frequent walks for house dogs to relieve themselves are the next best thing. Short periods of time in a large dog run is another possibility. If fencing is available but a dog is chained because he's an escape artist, bury fencing underground to prevent digging out, or angle fencing in to prevent jumping. Lidded runs are also available.

For more information on the problems with chaining dogs and alternatives, visit the following Web sites:

-- Dogs Deserve Better (dogsdeservebetter.org). The organization has two major campaigns a year. The first, for Valentine's Day, provides valentines and a treat to chained dogs, and an informational brochure for the owners. This Fourth of July, Dogs Deserve Better activists will chain themselves outside for 33 hours to bring attention to the suffering of neglected dogs.

-- The Humane Society of the United States (hsus.org) also has information on alternatives to chaining and on how to help a dog whose owners have chosen to leave the animal on a chain for life.

Q&A

Rabbit plans need work

Q: The daughter of one of our best friends is heading to college in August, and we have agreed to take her rabbit when she leaves. My main concern is how to integrate the rabbit into our family.

We have a 7-year-old heeler mix. Sofie is great with our cat (although she will chase her when excited). She is also great about the wild ducks, geese and occasional turkey that drops into the yard. But when a squirrel checks out my bird feeders, Sofie goes nuts.

Would it be beneficial to have the rabbit in the house at first to introduce her to the dog? The rabbit has four golden retrievers she lives with now and is familiar with dogs.

My plan is to keep her under our grapevines in the summer, where it will be cool. Our neighbor has done this successfully with three rescue rabbits: They have a large pen and have dug out tunnels. They come back in every night but roam the property during the day. -- C.D., via e-mail

A: You're very kind to offer to take in this rabbit, but I do see some problems with your plans. I see the potential for a disaster both in introducing the rabbit to Sofie and in how you intend to house your new pet.

Sofie first. Although some dogs are fine with rabbits, many others are too prey-driven to ever be safe around them. The fact that Sofie acts in predatory way around squirrels makes me think she wouldn't be safe around the rabbit, no matter how much care you take in the introductions. My recommendation would be to keep the animals separate if you take in the rabbit.

Your plans to let the rabbit tunnel out and roam the property as she wishes is likewise a bad idea. She may choose to come back on her own or she might not. But no matter her preference, she is at high risk as a free-roaming rabbit. Sofie might consider her prey, as might other neighborhood dogs or coyotes. The rabbit might also get far enough away to be run over on a nearby road. If you must house the rabbit outside, you need to do so in a way that will protect her from predators. Better still: Convert her into a house pet if you can set her up in a way that's safe from Sofie.

Rabbits are relatively easy to keep, and since this rabbit is already in a safe and happy situation, I'd recommend that your friends take over the care of the animal while their daughter is away. With four dogs to care for already, I can't imagine a rabbit would present that much more of a challenge to them.

Getting the gunk out

Q: Do you have any suggestions for getting gum out of our cat's fur? We'd rather not cut a hole in her long coat if we don't have to. -- R.P., via e-mail

A: Try working in a little peanut butter. The oil may lubricate the gum enough to let you work it out of your cat's coat. It's easier on both you and the cat just to clip it out with scissors, however.

Your question reminds me of another solution for something that commonly gets into the coats of our pets at this time of year. When a pet picks up burrs, use a little non-stick cooking spray on the area and then gently work the burr out with your fingers.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET WEB

Agile cats get their own sport

Cats are athletic and agile, when they want to be. The question is: Can they be trained to be athletic and agile when their owners want them to be?

The answer is now a solid "yes," with the creation of International Cat Agility Tournaments, an organization developed to host and promote the new sport of feline agility. It's no joke: Using positive-reinforcement methods and a lot of patience and good humor, cat lovers are training their cats to compete over a cat-sized obstacle course.

The ICAT Web site (www.catagility.com) includes articles and videos on how to get your cat started. Active cats such as the Bengal seem more inclined to compete than do the more laid-back breeds such as Persians. Non-pedigreed cats are also welcome to compete.

Events are not all that common yet, but the Web site's schedule shows scattered events in many parts of the country and even overseas.

PET Rx

Ferret skin masses need prompt attention

Bumps and lumps are common on ferrets, but that doesn't mean they should be ignored. While some skins masses may be relatively benign, others are deadly serious. Prompt diagnosis and treatment offer your pet the best chance for survival.

The first step is a thorough examination by your veterinarian. This may include a procedure in which a slender needle is inserted into the lump and a portion of its contents are removed and examined.

For lumps that cannot be diagnosed this way, a more thorough workup may be needed to determine if any malignancy has spread elsewhere to the body and if your pet is a good candidate for surgery.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Secure pets for safer driving

Image: seatbelt (no credit)

Caption: The PetBuckle travel harness comes in four sizes and secures a dog to a regular seat belt.

For the safety of both pets and people, no driver should so much as turn the key in a car until the animals are as safely secured as the people. A loose pet can be a distraction to the driver, or can become a dangerous projectile in case of an accident.

In practical terms, that means pets are either going to be harnessed to a seat belt or put inside a carrier that's itself secured.

For all pets except dogs, a carrier is the only real option. Few cats enjoy riding in cars, especially since most trips end at the veterinary hospital, a place they'd rather not visit. Travel can stress even the most laid-back of cats, and a stressed-out cat is hard to handle. That's why a carrier, secured with a seat belt through the handle and covered with a towel to dim the light and muffle sound, is the way to go not only for cats, but also for birds, reptiles, rabbits and other pets.

For many dogs, however, a trip in the car is a treat. Your dog may want to sit in the front seat and hang his head out the window, but you shouldn't let him. A properly secured airline-grade carrier is the best option, but if that's not possible, a seat belt designed for dogs is another good choice. Since front air bags aren't designed for pets, animals should ride in the back seat.

Several manufacturers make seat-belt harnesses for dogs now, but my favorite so far is the PetBuckle. The sturdy, well-made harness took all of five seconds to figure out and put on my dog. The PetBuckle comes in four sizes, with a suggested retail of $36 from pet-supply retail outlets or petbuckle.com. -- G.S.

PET BUY

Great gear for bunnies

As more rabbits move from small outdoor hutches into our homes and lives, a few companies are working to provide products specifically for what are now being called "house rabbits."

Two such online merchants are Bunny Bytes: Outfitters of the Urban Rabbit (www.bunnybytes.com) and Leith Petwerks (www.leithpetwerks.com). Both companies offer a wide array of food, treats and toys, along with information on how to care for a pet who can be engaging and entertaining. (Most can also be trained to use a litter box.)

Leith Petwerks also manufactures some of the best cages for confining rabbits when they cannot be supervised. The two- and three-story cages with connecting ramps allow for rabbits to have room to roam without taking up too much floor space. The cages are not cheap -- prices start at $90 for one-story models, before shipping -- but they are well-made and durable.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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