They don't purr like a cat or fetch like a dog. They have neither soft fur nor pleading eyes. But for a lot of people, reptiles and amphibians are perfect pets.

But which of these pets is best for a beginner? Iguanas are popular but are not suitable for any but the most dedicated of pet lovers. To get a list of reptilian recommendations, I turned to two veterinarians who specialize in reptiles (Dr. Douglas Mader and Dr. Linda Randall) and to two top authors and reptile-rescue volunteers (Melissa Kaplan and Liz Palika) to put together a list of relatively low-maintenance reptiles and amphibians for the first-time buyer. They are:

-- Bearded dragon. This lizard was the consensus best pick. "Baby beardies are very reactive -- fight or flight -- but if new owners are calm and gentle, the babies will settle down," says Liz Palika, author of "Turtles & Tortoises for Dummies" and "Leopard Geckos for Dummies." "Adult beardies, when calmly and gently handled, are equally calm, gentle pets that can live for 12 to 15 years."

Melissa Kaplan concurs. "They will get so relaxed," she says. "They grow to a reasonable size, 20 inches or so, and always have a semi-grumpy look on their face, which I find adorable."

-- Leopard gecko: A popular ad campaign for an insurance company has drawn attention to these lizards. Fortunately, they're good pets, according to the panel, and tolerate gentle handling well.

"They're smaller than the bearded dragons, about 6 inches long," says Kaplan. "They tend to look less scary because they're less prickly. They have a wonderful wide-eyed look about them, and they can live for a decade or so."

"These easy-to-care-for little lizards are great fun to watch in the evening -- they are nocturnal -- and fun to watch hunt for crickets or waxworms," says Palika. "They stalk their prey like a cat does."

-- Corn snake: "Captive breeding has produced wonderful colors and color variations," says Palika. "These are nice, calm snakes that rarely ever try to bite, and if they do, the bites are a warning you have done something wrong. Nice pets for busy people, as they require minimal care. Easy to care for, these snakes can live for 20 years."

-- Ball python: "These are also great snakes," says Kaplan. "They mature at about 4 feet in length. They are constrictors, though, and they love going up around your neck. You need to know the way to unwind a snake: Start at the tail and gently unwind."

--Pac-Man frogs and White's tree frogs: Two of the larger species of frogs available in the pet trade, both the Pac-Man and White's tree frogs had their fans among the expert panel.

"Pac-Man frogs got their name from the size of their mouth and their willingness to eat. The mouth is wide, across the entire front of the frog's head, and they will eat anything that fits into that mouth -- even other frogs," says Palika. "The White's are more active but don't get as big, either. They are a lovely shade of green and have folds of skin that are quite unusual."

"The Pac-Man frogs are vividly colored and marked, and very vocal," notes Kaplan. "My guy doesn't like the TV on at night and will bark at me. They can get to be 6 to 7 inches long."

Unlike the rest of the recommended pets, however, frogs shouldn't be handled. "Oils in our skin aren't good for their skins," says Kaplan.

Final advice from the experts: Deal with a reputable source for reptiles and buy a captive-bred pet only. And be sure you've done your research into housing, care and feeding before you buy.

SIDEBAR

Skip the iguana

One pet that experts agree is not for beginners is probably the most popular reptile of all: the green iguana.

"They are very complex lizards to care for, environmentally, psychosocially and nutritionally," says Melissa Kaplan, author of "Iguanas for Dummies" and owner of the Internet's best resource on reptiles and amphibians, anapsid.org. "Iguanas get extremely large, 6 feet in length within three to four years if cared for properly. And they are dangerous. They can break skin and sever tendons."

Kaplan says iguanas are also expensive and time-consuming to keep. "They have specific temperature and lighting requirements," she says. "I spend $150 a month to keep my iguana room at the proper temperature. There's also the food issue, with an hour or more of food preparation every week." Noting that what goes in must come out, Kaplan adds that the amount of mess to clean up with a full-grown iguana can be remarkable.

Liz Palika does reptile rescue in the San Diego area, and she knows the reality of what happens when those cute little iguanas start to grow or don't get the care they need.

"Our reptile rescue group gets at least four calls per day, every day, about people wishing to give up their iguana. The excuses are many, but most can be narrowed down to 'I didn't realize how big he would get' or 'He's sick and I can't afford the vet bills.'"

For the iguanas, the ending is rarely happy. Kaplan estimates that 90 percent of all baby iguanas sold as pets are dead in a year.

Q&A

Dog walkers display uncivilized behavior

Q: I just read the letter from one of your readers on the subject of dog urine and dead spots on the lawn. The reader said she when her dog squats on the neighbor's yard it doesn't leave a spot.

All I can say is she has a lot of nerve allowing her dog to urinate on other people's lawns! What is the matter with people? Are they devoid of all manners these days?

I'm appalled at you for not even mentioning that the behavior is rude, and I'm disappointed you didn't offer a practical solution, such as directing the dog to go in a specified area like run covered with pea gravel. -- V.D., via e-mail

A: It never fails that whenever I fail to seize on every possible opportunity to bludgeon pet lovers about being responsible, someone will write to complain.

For the record: Pet lovers should keep their cats from roaming and their dogs from barking. They should walk their dogs on-leash and keep them off their neighbors' lawns. They should also carry baggies so they can pick up whatever a pet drops wherever he drops it. I've written about all of this time and time again, to the point where some pet lovers complain that I must not really love pets.

I do love pets, of course, which is why I think it's important to be considerate of those who don't. Such consideration helps to protect our ability to have pets in the future.

That said, let's remember that it is not always possible to be perfect. Dogs cannot be relied upon to relieve themselves completely before leaving the house and stay "empty" until returning home. In the same way that I decided to "grin and bear it" with a neighbor's rock band (up to a reasonable hour, that is), I believe one has to accept the occasional lawn pit stop as a reality of life -- especially if the dog's owner has cleanup supplies at hand.

Living as most of us do in relatively close quarters, it's a good idea to try to be considerate of each other, and be tolerant as well.

Help for pulling dog

Q: Our dog is 2-year-old shepherd mix we got from the shelter. There's no way the kids can walk her, and she's supposed to be their dog. My husband jerks her back to his side when he walks her, but it doesn't help at all.

When we took Sammy to the veterinarian, she recommended we try a head halter. I've seen them a couple of times, but I thought they were muzzles. Do you recommend them? -- R.P., via e-mail

A: I like head halters, but recently I'm liking front-clip harnesses better. Here's the rundown on both:

-- Head halter. These work on the idea that where the head goes, the body will follow, a premise that has helped control horses for centuries. The problem with head halters is that many dogs initially hate them. They must be slowly acclimated with treats and praise.

-- Front-clip harness. The front-clip harness uses a dog's own momentum to stop the pulling. When the dog pulls, pressure on the front of the harness impedes her forward motion. The dog quickly learns to stop pulling.

At least three manufacturers make these harnesses now, and you should be able to find one at most pet-supply outlets.

Because I'm guessing your exuberant young dog has other behavioral issues, I'd recommend finding a good trainer. A couple of private sessions will help you get both the right equipment on your dog and a plan for turning her into a well-behaved member of the family.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET PLATES

License plates go to the dogs

Figuring out personalized license plates is one of my drive-time hobbies. It may be a waste of my time, but it's probably safer than talking on a cell phone.

Of course, I'm most delighted when I notice a pet-related personalized plate, especially one that I know few people would be able to figure out. Usually, I don't get to share my plate-deciphering skill with the owner of the car since we're both in traffic, but now and then I have a pleasant conversation over a license plate.

That was the case when I was sitting on a restaurant patio when a minivan with the plates "PGBV VAN" pulled up. I knew the plates referred to a breed of dog, the Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen, an adorable short-legged and fuzzy-faced French hound.

"I bet I'm the only person you'll meet all week who knows what your license plate means," I told the driver.

It's a little easier to figure out which license plates are pet-related when the vehicles are in the parking lot of a dog or cat show, and that's where this collection of plates is from.

California, where I live, has yet to offer a pet-themed plate to support spay-neuter efforts, but Arizona is firmly on the pet-lovers' list with its new license plate. Featuring a colorful illustration of a puppy and a kitten side-by-side, the plate's motto is "Pets enrich our lives." The plates cost $25, $17 of which goes into a fund to help with spay-neuter efforts. For more information, visit http://azpetplates.org.

(Do you have a pet-related license plate? Send a jpeg image and the story behind it to petconnection@gmail.com for use on a future Pet Connection page.)

BREED TYPE

Sleek Abyssinian likes to keep busy

The Abyssinian is not a cat who curls up purring in your lap while you read a book. The Abyssinian is a cat who lands spread-eagled on your book after zooming around the house, scaling the drapes, racing over the back of the sofa and plummeting down from the top of the china cabinet. And then looks at you, expecting applause.

Even if your Abyssinian doesn't cuddle on your lap, you'll never have the slightest doubt that he wants to be with you. Abys are extremely friendly and enjoy being close to their people. In fact, you'll often find an Abyssinian perched on his owner's shoulder (when not perched on the highest level of the bookshelf, that is).

The Abyssinian cat probably doesn't come from Abyssinia (Ethiopia) at all but, like so many cat breeds, from Southeast Asia. Whatever the origin of the breed, they clearly resemble cats depicted in ancient Egyptian art. This sleek grace, combined with their exuberant personalities, has made them the third-most popular shorthaired cat breed in the United States.

Abys come in a number of colors, including shades of fawn and gray, but are best known in ruddy red. They have a coat pattern known as "ticked" or "agouti," which resembles faint pinpoint speckling. Their short coat requires only occasional brushing to remove dead hair, making these cats very easy to care for.

Active and intelligent, the Abyssinian is basically a healthy breed. However, they can suffer from a few genetic disorders, so be sure to obtain your Abyssinian directly from a knowledgeable, responsible breeder or a reputable rescue group. -- Christie Keith, cathobbyist.com

THE SCOOP

Daily cleaning for pet dishes

No matter how thoroughly your pet licks clean the food dish, it's not clean enough to use again without washing. That goes for water dishes. I've seen water dishes in some homes with the beginnings of algae colonies forming on the sides and the bottom -- who'd want to drink from that?

Pick up your pet's food dish after every meal, scrub and wash in hot water and soap. The water dish should get the same treatment, on a daily basis.

Better still, run them through the hottest cycle of the dishwasher to get them really clean and sterilized. Stainless steel or heavy plastic "crock-style" dishes are best for frequent cleaning: They last forever and stand up well to the abuse a pet can dish out. I have stainless steel pet dishes that still look good after two decades of use.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It's easy to imagine how something like this starts. A nice summer day at a lake, a couple of friends, a couple of retrievers and probably a beer or two.

"Hey," says one friend to the other. "I bet my dog can jump farther than yours can."

"You're on," says the other, and soon the dogs are happily flying off the dock in a water-logged game of fetch.

Take that basic concept, add a network with air time to fill and a sanctioning body or two to run things and keep the records straight, and suddenly, you've got a sport.

In this case, canine dock-diving.

"In 1998, ESPN contacted us with the concept, and asked, 'Can you make this a sport?'" said Shadd Field of Medina, Ohio, president of the young sport's dominant sanctioning body, Dock Dogs. "Our first competition was in 2000, and this year we'll put on about 60."

It's easy to see how such growth is possible. The sport is easy to understand -- jumps off an elevated dock into a portable pool are measured for distance -- and fun for handlers, dogs, spectators and TV viewers alike. And although the top teams are now getting sponsorships and are training for even longer jumps, in dock-diving even new competitors can do well.

If your dog loves the water, all you need to do is show up.

Southern California's Teresa Rodney is a new fan of dock-diving. She and her 6-year-old flat-coated retriever, Jazz, are nationally recognized competitors in the sport of canine agility, where teams must train constantly in order to be competitive.

That's not the case with dock-diving. The first time out, Jazz took to the air with no training at all.

"She jumps in the water for the sheer joy of jumping in the water," says Rodney. "I entered her on a whim, and she did well. A dog has to love water to begin with, or at least love retrieving. My other dog is an Australian shepherd ... no way. He's not a big water dog."

Shadd Field says that while the sport has been dominated so far by retrievers -- the record jump of 26 feet, 6 inches is held by a Labrador -- a wide variety of dogs have gone off the dock into the water.

"Anybody with a dog and a ball can participate," Field says. "We've had everything from Chihuahuas to Newfoundlands. We even had a bloodhound a few weeks ago. He fell off the dock into the water and walked to retrieve."

This year Dock Dogs will host a series of three regionals starting May 20 in Redmond, Wash. (the others will be in Dubuque, Iowa, and Richmond, Va.), and a national championship in October, final details yet to be arranged. The organization also awards titles, such as "junior jumper," depending on how far a dog can jump.

And just to make things even more interesting, the owner of the first dog to jump more than 30 feet in televised competition will pick up a check for $30,000.

"Dock-diving is different from other dog sports," says Field, a dog trainer with four golden retrievers of his own. "Agility, obedience, field-work -- they're all about control. We're not trying to control the dogs, but rather, trying to get them to explode off the dock with natural instincts."

SIDEBAR

Jump into it

Dock-diving is welcoming of newcomers, and many water-loving dogs do well from the very first jump. For more information:

-- Dock Dogs (www.dockdogs.com). Dock Dogs is the organization behind the dock-diving events on ESPN. The site offers lots of information on how to get started, features on top competitors, and results and pictures from recent competitions.

-- Splash Dogs (www.splashdogs.com). Splash Dogs competitions are held on the West Coast, primarily California. Splash Dogs started in 2004, and this year it will offer at least nine competitions with about a half-dozen more in the works.

Q&A

Tips for easing feline greetings

Q: I've had cats as long as I've been around -- and I've been around a long time! I've bottle-raised orphaned kittens and have fostered dozens of cats for a local rescue group.

When it comes to introducing cats to each other, I have a tip: Put butter or whipped cream near the nose and the back end of both cats. They then smell alike and will be more accepting of each other. They won't get sick from the butter or cream, and it eases the introduction. Can you pass this along? -- C.K., via e-mail

A: You can try the same thing with the oil from a can of tuna. Yes, it does seem to help, but I'm not so sure the cats themselves are fooled by the smell. They're likely just busy licking off all that great-tasting goo.

Most cats -- but not all -- will eventually get along fine with a newcomer, but you must give them time, lots of time, in some cases. Territorial negotiations can be delicate and drawn out among cats. Let them work it out from separate parts of the house, and don't force them together.

Despite the initial hissy fit many cats throw when faced with a new housemate, adding a second cat can be a good idea. Indoor cats, especially, get bored and lonely when left alone all day. The addition of a second cat will help with both problems.

Your tip can also help ease the transition when one cat comes home from the veterinarian, and the other cat suddenly decides the returnee no longer belongs.

It seems the smells that come home from the veterinary hospital can put the cat who stayed behind into attack mode. Changing those smells can help, either by adding the ones you suggest or even wiping both cats with the same towel a couple of times so they smell more familiar to each other.

Secure Fencing

Q: I am moving to a new home that doesn't have a fence, and I can't afford to change that any time soon. I've heard that pouring ammonia around the perimeter will keep the dogs in their place, but does it really work? -- N.L., via e-mail

A: Ammonia won't work. Your dogs won't like the smell, but it won't slow them down for a second in their hurry to explore their new neighborhood.

Secure fencing is the only long-term solution. In the short term, you'll need to take them out on leashes, put them on tethers or place them in runs.

Tethering is not a good long-term solution, so please don't even consider it as a permanent fix to your problem. Dogs do not do well tied up; some even become vicious as a result. Tethering has other hazards, too. Your dogs can tangle up their lines and become unable to reach food, water or shade, or loose dogs can attack them. For these reasons, I recommend tethering for short periods at a time, and always under supervision. And remember: Never use a choke-chain collar with a tether. It's too easy for a dog to strangle himself.

Ready-made dog runs can be found for a couple of hundred dollars, less if you are able to find one secondhand. These will keep your dogs safe during their potty breaks.

Since I know someone will write to recommend electronic fences, let me say I don't like them. While they may keep an animal on the property, they don't protect a pet from other animals, pet thieves or harassment by neighborhood kids.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Easy dog-washing while on the go

Like most dogs, mine love beaches. They love to chase the surf, inhale the sharp sea air -- and roll in the dead things they find washed up on the shore.

The worst beach incident I've ever experienced was when one of my dogs rolled on a seal that time had transformed to a level of ripeness words cannot fully describe.

The smell was unbearable. I took the dog out into the surf and later hosed him off at the campground, but the smell never left until I could get him bathed. Twice.

I thought of that time -- and remembered that smell -- when I saw the Dirty Dog, the dog-washing tub from the camping goods company Abogear. Made from tough nylon and PVC, the tub is a flexible tube with a bottom, and it collapses flat for storage. It would easily tuck into any pile of camping gear and would make a clean dog possible almost anywhere. A bonus: The company notes that the Dirty Dog can also be filled with ice and used to chill drinks.

The Dirty Dog is $50, including shipping, from Abogear (www.abogear.com; 888-604-8249).

ON THE WEB

Special vets for reptilian pets

The growing popularity of reptiles and amphibians as pets has driven interest in the veterinary community in learning how to provide better care for these creatures.

While relatively few veterinarians restrict their practices to reptiles and amphibians, more than a thousand are members of the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians.

The ARAV Web site (www.arav.org) lists its members by city and state to help owners of reptiles and amphibians find a knowledgeable veterinarian in their area.

The site also offers articles on care and safe handling, along with links to other Web sites providing helpful information on caring for these pets.

PET Rx

Watch out for fields of foxtails

As spring moves into summer, foxtails start to become a serious problem.

Their long, slender stems hold sticky seed carriers high, ready to catch a ride on a pant leg or a pet. The carrier itself is designed like a spike, with tiny hairs that keep the nettle burrowing forward through whatever is in the way.

Foxtails dig deeply into every possible opening on an animal. Once they get into flesh, they keep moving, sometimes causing significant damage. They can end up anywhere, and if left alone, they often require veterinary attention, even surgery, to remove.

Be aware of these problem areas:

-- Feet. Limping and licking are signs a foxtail has found a home, probably between your animal's toes.

-- Ears. Because of the burrowing nature of foxtails, every head shake drives the pest farther down into the ear. A pet with a foxtail in its ear may develop a chronic infection.

-- Nose. Because dogs like to sniff, foxtails often lodge in their noses. The signs are obvious: sneezing, sometimes violently, sometimes accompanied by bleeding or discharge. A foxtail in the nose may cause an infection and can even work its way into the lungs or spinal column of an animal. Just because the sneezing stops doesn't mean the foxtail has gone away -- it may have just burrowed deeper.

The best way to deal with foxtails is through prevention. Steer clear of areas dense with foxtails if you can. Keep the fur between your pet's toes trimmed, and go over your pet after every outing from head to toe, catching the foxtails before they get a chance to dig in.

Be aware that once a foxtail is imbedded, it isn't going away. If you suspect a foxtail is in your pet's ear or nose, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may still be able to grab the nettle before it can cause more trouble.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

A bite can be an emergency

Accidents happen even to the cautious. One disaster that's all too common in a multi-pet household is a biting incident between a predatory animal (cat or dog) and a prey one (bird, hamster, rabbit).

A bite is a genuine medical emergency, even if the pet who has been bitten seems fine afterward.

Dogs and cats have bacteria in their mouths that can develop into a deadly infection in a bird or other prey animal. For many of these, a prompt trip to a veterinarian and a course of antibiotics will mean the difference between life and death. Nights, weekends -- no matter when it happens -- a bitten bird or rabbit needs help, fast.

Never assume your dog or cat won't bite your rabbit or bird. The prey-predator wiring can be very difficult to short-circuit. Keep these pets safely apart at all times.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A dog show has to be one of few competitive endeavors in which the majority of spectators don't know who the players are and don't really care who wins.

Most people come to a show to see beautiful dogs, buy a new leash or toy, or even try to figure out the answer that old question: Do people look like their dogs?

The dog show season runs almost year-around -- with gap around Christmas -- and hits a high point at the prestige shows early each year: The American Kennel Club's national championship and historic Westminster.

The moderate weather of spring makes this one of the better times to catch a dog show, and there are shows going on all across the country every weekend.

Some tips to get the most out of your trip:

-- Dress appropriately. Comfortable shoes are a must, and clothing that can adjust to temperature changes is also advisable if the show's outdoors. If you're researching a breed or looking for a breeder, bring a notebook and pen. Since shopping is a major dog show activity, consider bringing a tote bag to haul away your goodies. Seating is often in short supply, so if you have one of those collapsible cloth camping seats, bring it.

-- Get a program. Different breeds show at different times in different rings. Most larger shows will have a free one-page directory to rings and times. If you're on a research mission, pay for the full catalog, which lists the dogs in competition and is a good resource in the hunt for a reputable breeder.

-- Beware of handler. Sometimes the dogs can be friendlier than the people with them. Although many professional handlers will take time to answer questions if you ask when it's convenient, others consider spectators an unwelcome distraction from the hard work of getting a dog groomed and shown. It's probably best to avoid the big setups of the top professional handlers and look for a person with just a couple of dogs, such as a breeder or owner who's handling her own dogs.

-- Beware of dog. Show dogs are generally well-behaved and well-socialized, but common sense dictates asking a handler's permission before petting a dog. The grooming that goes into some breeds is so time-consuming and elaborate that it's often best to wait until after competition to pet a dog, anyway. Ask before petting, and you never go wrong.

-- Enjoy the show. Dog shows are often stressful for competitors at both ends of the leash, but they should be pure enjoyment for spectators. Take time to visit all the vendors, watch both people and dogs -- the people are often more interesting -- and find where the obedience competition is for a change from the "beauty show" aspect of the larger event.

The American Kennel Club sanctions the majority of dog competitions. To find an upcoming show in your area, use the events search function on the AKC's Web site (www.akc.org).

Many smaller dog shows are free for spectators, but larger ones usually charge admission and possibly even parking, depending on the venue. The events listings of local newspapers usually will have information on start times and admission prices for larger shows. Typically, judging starts at 8 a.m. and culminates with "group" and "best in show" competitions in late afternoon.

The dog-watching, people-watching and goody-buying last all day.

SIDEBAR

How it works

At an all-breed dog show, two different competitions are being played out.

Dogs who are not champions compete within their own breed for "points." Championships require 15 points and are awarded according to the number of dogs competing in a breed. The more popular a breed, the higher the number of dogs that must be defeated per point.

The breed ring is also the launching pad for the show's other competition, where dogs who are already champions compete for Group and Best In Show wins. These dogs start by competing against other champions of their breed. Each best of breed advances to compete against other breed winners in their group -- working, toy, herding, etc. The seven group winners then compete for Best In Show.

Group and Best In Show wins are important in determining national rankings, and in landing invitations to the most prestigious shows, such as Westminster and the AKC national championship.

Q&A

Dog declawing not an option

Q: My arms are ripped to bits from my dog's habit of jumping up and clawing me. Trimming is a wrestling match, and walking her on hard surfaces isn't helping. I'm getting to the end of my rope on this problem. Can dogs have their claws removed like cats can? -- N.W., via e-mail

A: While a dog's claws could in theory be surgically removed, it's not commonly done, and you'd have a difficult time finding a veterinarian who'd agree to such a thing.

Instead, get a trainer's help in teaching your dog to keep her feet on the ground. If the nails are really overgrown, consider having your veterinarian cut them all the way back while your dog is under sedation. This will give you a fresh start to the problem, so trimming a little off each week after the quick recedes will keep the nails short. And unless your dog is doing miles and miles of sidewalk time a week, walking on hard surfaces won't help with the nail-length issue.

Don't make nail-trim time a battle. Start slowly by handling your dog's paws without trimming nails and build up your pet's tolerance through treats and praise.

Some dogs do better having their nails ground down rather than cut. You can buy an appliance designed to grind dog nails, or use a rotary tool such as the Dremel to do the same thing. The advantage to grinding is that you won't go too far -- as soon as you see the quick, you stop. As with using a nail-trimming, make sure you introduce a grinder slowly and gradually, with lots of praise and treats along the way.

There are several new nail-trim tools that have just come on the market, and I'll be reporting on them in a future column.

Two pups not always better than one

Q: Would it be a good idea to get two puppies at once? I'm not home much and worry about leaving a puppy alone. Would getting two help to ease their loneliness? -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Are you sure you're not too busy to have a dog? If you're never home, you really need to reconsider having a pet of any kind. But even if you were home all day long, I don't recommend getting two puppies at once.

Two puppies raised together will often bond more tightly with each other than with the human members of the house, especially if the pups are from the same litter. Experienced show breeders, who often "grow out" a pair of promising puppies, routinely get around this problem by sending one of the youngsters to be raised by another breeder.

House-training can be a challenge with two puppies because one may not get the concept as quickly as the other. Fresh messes from the one who's not getting it may prompt backsliding in the other pup. Obedience training and all-important socialization can also be hard, since you have to find the time to work with each puppy individually.

If you really do have time for a dog and wish to have two dogs more or less "instantly," I'd recommend adopting two adults. Rescue groups and shelters often have dogs that were abandoned together and would be heartbroken if split up. These pairs are already companionable and can help keep each other company during the time you're away.

Puppies are wonderful, but there's a lot to be said about skipping those crazy first months of their lives. For many families, an adult dog is flat-out a better match.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Humane options for feral cats

Perhaps the one good thing to come out of all the hissing over the Wisconsin cat-shooting proposal is broader exposure for alternative methods for controlling feral cats.

There is another option besides killing them or letting them be.

Humane advocates for years have been practicing "trap, neuter, release" (TNR) methods of control, with the idea that a colony of healthy managed ferals incapable of reproduction will keep other cats from colonizing a food-rich environment. TNR control methods are successfully practiced in many communities and in such places as on college campuses.

Although many humane organizations endorse and support TNR efforts, Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) has done the most to advocate for kinder treatment for feral cats. The group's Web site has everything necessary to start a successful TNR program, along with tips on taming and re-homing those kittens and cats who aren't so wild that they cannot be turned into loving indoor pets.

PET Rx

Seeds a treat, not a complete diet

Seeds are parrot junk food and should be offered only as an occasional treat or used in trick training.

Pelleted foods should be the foundation of your bird's diet, complemented by a variety of healthy "people food." Fresh fruits and vegetables should be provided along with pasta, eggs, breads, rice and unsalted nuts in their shells.

Excessively fatty foods or overprocessed foods should be avoided, since many pet birds are prone to obesity. A good rule of thumb: If it's healthy for you, it's good for your bird, too. Do keep pellets and fresh, clean water available at all times.

In addition to rounding out a commercial diet, fruits, nuts and other people food give your bird something to keep him occupied and entertained. To that end, leave fresh food in as natural a form as possible. Clean it, of course, but make your bird work some to eat it.

Corn left on the cob is a great example of good food that also offers a fun challenge to eat. You can also find toys that are designed to hide food inside, making eating not only mentally challenging but also good exercise.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET BUY

Kong remains king of dog toys

Kong is king. The pet toy that's shaped like the Michelin tire man has come a long way since its creator adapted it from a rubber piece off the suspension system of an old VW van. There's one thing that hasn't changed, though: This is one toy that has stood up to countless dogs.

Why are Kongs so remarkable? Part of the answer is durability, and part is flexibility. The basic Kong model stands up to hours of chewing. The rope-equipped Kongs bounce erratically when they land to make "fetch" even more interesting. There's even a Kool Kong for water retrievers. (With three retrievers, I buy Kool Kongs in bulk.)

Probably more important is the use of Kongs to help dogs with time spent alone. A Kong stuffed with peanut butter and pieces of dog treats offers a harmless and healthy alternative to chewing the sofa or scratching the windowsill. There are Web pages devoted to the art of stuffing a Kong: loose filling for introducing the stuffed Kong, and tighter-stuffed and even frozen Kongs for dogs who just love to chew and have time to kill.

While Kongs are mostly sold to dog lovers, their appeal goes beyond the canine realm: A stuffed Kong is good for keeping parrots entertained and out of trouble.

I get news of dozens of new pet products every year and samples of dozens more. Most are just variations on some familiar themes, or are something new that's perhaps nice to have but in no way essential to keeping a pet happy. Few pet products truly stand the test of time. Kong is one of those rare exceptions.

Likes many veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists, I find myself recommending Kongs constantly. They're available in almost all pet-supply outlets. Prices vary by model and size.

PET TIP

Sticky litter meets its match

Clumping cat litter is great stuff indeed, but sometimes it gets where it shouldn't. Cats with silky, long hair can develop chronic problems with litter stuck to their fannies and the insides of their legs -- the moisture that catches on their fur from using the box attracts the litter. And then there's tracking: Moisture on a cat's paws can grab litter, which then gets rubbed off throughout the house.

Fortunately, you can minimize both problems.

With longhaired cats, if you're not inclined to comb out the spots that attract litter on at least a daily basis, then you should keep the trouble areas clipped short. As for tracking, putting a large sisal doormat under the litter box will help. The rough texture of the mat will help to knock the litter off your cat's paws as he exits the box.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600