It's easy to imagine how something like this starts. A nice summer day at a lake, a couple of friends, a couple of retrievers and probably a beer or two.

"Hey," says one friend to the other. "I bet my dog can jump farther than yours can."

"You're on," says the other, and soon the dogs are happily flying off the dock in a water-logged game of fetch.

Take that basic concept, add a network with air time to fill and a sanctioning body or two to run things and keep the records straight, and suddenly, you've got a sport.

In this case, canine dock-diving.

"In 1998, ESPN contacted us with the concept, and asked, 'Can you make this a sport?'" said Shadd Field of Medina, Ohio, president of the young sport's dominant sanctioning body, Dock Dogs. "Our first competition was in 2000, and this year we'll put on about 60."

It's easy to see how such growth is possible. The sport is easy to understand -- jumps off an elevated dock into a portable pool are measured for distance -- and fun for handlers, dogs, spectators and TV viewers alike. And although the top teams are now getting sponsorships and are training for even longer jumps, in dock-diving even new competitors can do well.

If your dog loves the water, all you need to do is show up.

Southern California's Teresa Rodney is a new fan of dock-diving. She and her 6-year-old flat-coated retriever, Jazz, are nationally recognized competitors in the sport of canine agility, where teams must train constantly in order to be competitive.

That's not the case with dock-diving. The first time out, Jazz took to the air with no training at all.

"She jumps in the water for the sheer joy of jumping in the water," says Rodney. "I entered her on a whim, and she did well. A dog has to love water to begin with, or at least love retrieving. My other dog is an Australian shepherd ... no way. He's not a big water dog."

Shadd Field says that while the sport has been dominated so far by retrievers -- the record jump of 26 feet, 6 inches is held by a Labrador -- a wide variety of dogs have gone off the dock into the water.

"Anybody with a dog and a ball can participate," Field says. "We've had everything from Chihuahuas to Newfoundlands. We even had a bloodhound a few weeks ago. He fell off the dock into the water and walked to retrieve."

This year Dock Dogs will host a series of three regionals starting May 20 in Redmond, Wash. (the others will be in Dubuque, Iowa, and Richmond, Va.), and a national championship in October, final details yet to be arranged. The organization also awards titles, such as "junior jumper," depending on how far a dog can jump.

And just to make things even more interesting, the owner of the first dog to jump more than 30 feet in televised competition will pick up a check for $30,000.

"Dock-diving is different from other dog sports," says Field, a dog trainer with four golden retrievers of his own. "Agility, obedience, field-work -- they're all about control. We're not trying to control the dogs, but rather, trying to get them to explode off the dock with natural instincts."

SIDEBAR

Jump into it

Dock-diving is welcoming of newcomers, and many water-loving dogs do well from the very first jump. For more information:

-- Dock Dogs (www.dockdogs.com). Dock Dogs is the organization behind the dock-diving events on ESPN. The site offers lots of information on how to get started, features on top competitors, and results and pictures from recent competitions.

-- Splash Dogs (www.splashdogs.com). Splash Dogs competitions are held on the West Coast, primarily California. Splash Dogs started in 2004, and this year it will offer at least nine competitions with about a half-dozen more in the works.

Q&A

Tips for easing feline greetings

Q: I've had cats as long as I've been around -- and I've been around a long time! I've bottle-raised orphaned kittens and have fostered dozens of cats for a local rescue group.

When it comes to introducing cats to each other, I have a tip: Put butter or whipped cream near the nose and the back end of both cats. They then smell alike and will be more accepting of each other. They won't get sick from the butter or cream, and it eases the introduction. Can you pass this along? -- C.K., via e-mail

A: You can try the same thing with the oil from a can of tuna. Yes, it does seem to help, but I'm not so sure the cats themselves are fooled by the smell. They're likely just busy licking off all that great-tasting goo.

Most cats -- but not all -- will eventually get along fine with a newcomer, but you must give them time, lots of time, in some cases. Territorial negotiations can be delicate and drawn out among cats. Let them work it out from separate parts of the house, and don't force them together.

Despite the initial hissy fit many cats throw when faced with a new housemate, adding a second cat can be a good idea. Indoor cats, especially, get bored and lonely when left alone all day. The addition of a second cat will help with both problems.

Your tip can also help ease the transition when one cat comes home from the veterinarian, and the other cat suddenly decides the returnee no longer belongs.

It seems the smells that come home from the veterinary hospital can put the cat who stayed behind into attack mode. Changing those smells can help, either by adding the ones you suggest or even wiping both cats with the same towel a couple of times so they smell more familiar to each other.

Secure Fencing

Q: I am moving to a new home that doesn't have a fence, and I can't afford to change that any time soon. I've heard that pouring ammonia around the perimeter will keep the dogs in their place, but does it really work? -- N.L., via e-mail

A: Ammonia won't work. Your dogs won't like the smell, but it won't slow them down for a second in their hurry to explore their new neighborhood.

Secure fencing is the only long-term solution. In the short term, you'll need to take them out on leashes, put them on tethers or place them in runs.

Tethering is not a good long-term solution, so please don't even consider it as a permanent fix to your problem. Dogs do not do well tied up; some even become vicious as a result. Tethering has other hazards, too. Your dogs can tangle up their lines and become unable to reach food, water or shade, or loose dogs can attack them. For these reasons, I recommend tethering for short periods at a time, and always under supervision. And remember: Never use a choke-chain collar with a tether. It's too easy for a dog to strangle himself.

Ready-made dog runs can be found for a couple of hundred dollars, less if you are able to find one secondhand. These will keep your dogs safe during their potty breaks.

Since I know someone will write to recommend electronic fences, let me say I don't like them. While they may keep an animal on the property, they don't protect a pet from other animals, pet thieves or harassment by neighborhood kids.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Easy dog-washing while on the go

Like most dogs, mine love beaches. They love to chase the surf, inhale the sharp sea air -- and roll in the dead things they find washed up on the shore.

The worst beach incident I've ever experienced was when one of my dogs rolled on a seal that time had transformed to a level of ripeness words cannot fully describe.

The smell was unbearable. I took the dog out into the surf and later hosed him off at the campground, but the smell never left until I could get him bathed. Twice.

I thought of that time -- and remembered that smell -- when I saw the Dirty Dog, the dog-washing tub from the camping goods company Abogear. Made from tough nylon and PVC, the tub is a flexible tube with a bottom, and it collapses flat for storage. It would easily tuck into any pile of camping gear and would make a clean dog possible almost anywhere. A bonus: The company notes that the Dirty Dog can also be filled with ice and used to chill drinks.

The Dirty Dog is $50, including shipping, from Abogear (www.abogear.com; 888-604-8249).

ON THE WEB

Special vets for reptilian pets

The growing popularity of reptiles and amphibians as pets has driven interest in the veterinary community in learning how to provide better care for these creatures.

While relatively few veterinarians restrict their practices to reptiles and amphibians, more than a thousand are members of the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians.

The ARAV Web site (www.arav.org) lists its members by city and state to help owners of reptiles and amphibians find a knowledgeable veterinarian in their area.

The site also offers articles on care and safe handling, along with links to other Web sites providing helpful information on caring for these pets.

PET Rx

Watch out for fields of foxtails

As spring moves into summer, foxtails start to become a serious problem.

Their long, slender stems hold sticky seed carriers high, ready to catch a ride on a pant leg or a pet. The carrier itself is designed like a spike, with tiny hairs that keep the nettle burrowing forward through whatever is in the way.

Foxtails dig deeply into every possible opening on an animal. Once they get into flesh, they keep moving, sometimes causing significant damage. They can end up anywhere, and if left alone, they often require veterinary attention, even surgery, to remove.

Be aware of these problem areas:

-- Feet. Limping and licking are signs a foxtail has found a home, probably between your animal's toes.

-- Ears. Because of the burrowing nature of foxtails, every head shake drives the pest farther down into the ear. A pet with a foxtail in its ear may develop a chronic infection.

-- Nose. Because dogs like to sniff, foxtails often lodge in their noses. The signs are obvious: sneezing, sometimes violently, sometimes accompanied by bleeding or discharge. A foxtail in the nose may cause an infection and can even work its way into the lungs or spinal column of an animal. Just because the sneezing stops doesn't mean the foxtail has gone away -- it may have just burrowed deeper.

The best way to deal with foxtails is through prevention. Steer clear of areas dense with foxtails if you can. Keep the fur between your pet's toes trimmed, and go over your pet after every outing from head to toe, catching the foxtails before they get a chance to dig in.

Be aware that once a foxtail is imbedded, it isn't going away. If you suspect a foxtail is in your pet's ear or nose, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may still be able to grab the nettle before it can cause more trouble.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

A bite can be an emergency

Accidents happen even to the cautious. One disaster that's all too common in a multi-pet household is a biting incident between a predatory animal (cat or dog) and a prey one (bird, hamster, rabbit).

A bite is a genuine medical emergency, even if the pet who has been bitten seems fine afterward.

Dogs and cats have bacteria in their mouths that can develop into a deadly infection in a bird or other prey animal. For many of these, a prompt trip to a veterinarian and a course of antibiotics will mean the difference between life and death. Nights, weekends -- no matter when it happens -- a bitten bird or rabbit needs help, fast.

Never assume your dog or cat won't bite your rabbit or bird. The prey-predator wiring can be very difficult to short-circuit. Keep these pets safely apart at all times.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A dog show has to be one of few competitive endeavors in which the majority of spectators don't know who the players are and don't really care who wins.

Most people come to a show to see beautiful dogs, buy a new leash or toy, or even try to figure out the answer that old question: Do people look like their dogs?

The dog show season runs almost year-around -- with gap around Christmas -- and hits a high point at the prestige shows early each year: The American Kennel Club's national championship and historic Westminster.

The moderate weather of spring makes this one of the better times to catch a dog show, and there are shows going on all across the country every weekend.

Some tips to get the most out of your trip:

-- Dress appropriately. Comfortable shoes are a must, and clothing that can adjust to temperature changes is also advisable if the show's outdoors. If you're researching a breed or looking for a breeder, bring a notebook and pen. Since shopping is a major dog show activity, consider bringing a tote bag to haul away your goodies. Seating is often in short supply, so if you have one of those collapsible cloth camping seats, bring it.

-- Get a program. Different breeds show at different times in different rings. Most larger shows will have a free one-page directory to rings and times. If you're on a research mission, pay for the full catalog, which lists the dogs in competition and is a good resource in the hunt for a reputable breeder.

-- Beware of handler. Sometimes the dogs can be friendlier than the people with them. Although many professional handlers will take time to answer questions if you ask when it's convenient, others consider spectators an unwelcome distraction from the hard work of getting a dog groomed and shown. It's probably best to avoid the big setups of the top professional handlers and look for a person with just a couple of dogs, such as a breeder or owner who's handling her own dogs.

-- Beware of dog. Show dogs are generally well-behaved and well-socialized, but common sense dictates asking a handler's permission before petting a dog. The grooming that goes into some breeds is so time-consuming and elaborate that it's often best to wait until after competition to pet a dog, anyway. Ask before petting, and you never go wrong.

-- Enjoy the show. Dog shows are often stressful for competitors at both ends of the leash, but they should be pure enjoyment for spectators. Take time to visit all the vendors, watch both people and dogs -- the people are often more interesting -- and find where the obedience competition is for a change from the "beauty show" aspect of the larger event.

The American Kennel Club sanctions the majority of dog competitions. To find an upcoming show in your area, use the events search function on the AKC's Web site (www.akc.org).

Many smaller dog shows are free for spectators, but larger ones usually charge admission and possibly even parking, depending on the venue. The events listings of local newspapers usually will have information on start times and admission prices for larger shows. Typically, judging starts at 8 a.m. and culminates with "group" and "best in show" competitions in late afternoon.

The dog-watching, people-watching and goody-buying last all day.

SIDEBAR

How it works

At an all-breed dog show, two different competitions are being played out.

Dogs who are not champions compete within their own breed for "points." Championships require 15 points and are awarded according to the number of dogs competing in a breed. The more popular a breed, the higher the number of dogs that must be defeated per point.

The breed ring is also the launching pad for the show's other competition, where dogs who are already champions compete for Group and Best In Show wins. These dogs start by competing against other champions of their breed. Each best of breed advances to compete against other breed winners in their group -- working, toy, herding, etc. The seven group winners then compete for Best In Show.

Group and Best In Show wins are important in determining national rankings, and in landing invitations to the most prestigious shows, such as Westminster and the AKC national championship.

Q&A

Dog declawing not an option

Q: My arms are ripped to bits from my dog's habit of jumping up and clawing me. Trimming is a wrestling match, and walking her on hard surfaces isn't helping. I'm getting to the end of my rope on this problem. Can dogs have their claws removed like cats can? -- N.W., via e-mail

A: While a dog's claws could in theory be surgically removed, it's not commonly done, and you'd have a difficult time finding a veterinarian who'd agree to such a thing.

Instead, get a trainer's help in teaching your dog to keep her feet on the ground. If the nails are really overgrown, consider having your veterinarian cut them all the way back while your dog is under sedation. This will give you a fresh start to the problem, so trimming a little off each week after the quick recedes will keep the nails short. And unless your dog is doing miles and miles of sidewalk time a week, walking on hard surfaces won't help with the nail-length issue.

Don't make nail-trim time a battle. Start slowly by handling your dog's paws without trimming nails and build up your pet's tolerance through treats and praise.

Some dogs do better having their nails ground down rather than cut. You can buy an appliance designed to grind dog nails, or use a rotary tool such as the Dremel to do the same thing. The advantage to grinding is that you won't go too far -- as soon as you see the quick, you stop. As with using a nail-trimming, make sure you introduce a grinder slowly and gradually, with lots of praise and treats along the way.

There are several new nail-trim tools that have just come on the market, and I'll be reporting on them in a future column.

Two pups not always better than one

Q: Would it be a good idea to get two puppies at once? I'm not home much and worry about leaving a puppy alone. Would getting two help to ease their loneliness? -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Are you sure you're not too busy to have a dog? If you're never home, you really need to reconsider having a pet of any kind. But even if you were home all day long, I don't recommend getting two puppies at once.

Two puppies raised together will often bond more tightly with each other than with the human members of the house, especially if the pups are from the same litter. Experienced show breeders, who often "grow out" a pair of promising puppies, routinely get around this problem by sending one of the youngsters to be raised by another breeder.

House-training can be a challenge with two puppies because one may not get the concept as quickly as the other. Fresh messes from the one who's not getting it may prompt backsliding in the other pup. Obedience training and all-important socialization can also be hard, since you have to find the time to work with each puppy individually.

If you really do have time for a dog and wish to have two dogs more or less "instantly," I'd recommend adopting two adults. Rescue groups and shelters often have dogs that were abandoned together and would be heartbroken if split up. These pairs are already companionable and can help keep each other company during the time you're away.

Puppies are wonderful, but there's a lot to be said about skipping those crazy first months of their lives. For many families, an adult dog is flat-out a better match.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Humane options for feral cats

Perhaps the one good thing to come out of all the hissing over the Wisconsin cat-shooting proposal is broader exposure for alternative methods for controlling feral cats.

There is another option besides killing them or letting them be.

Humane advocates for years have been practicing "trap, neuter, release" (TNR) methods of control, with the idea that a colony of healthy managed ferals incapable of reproduction will keep other cats from colonizing a food-rich environment. TNR control methods are successfully practiced in many communities and in such places as on college campuses.

Although many humane organizations endorse and support TNR efforts, Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) has done the most to advocate for kinder treatment for feral cats. The group's Web site has everything necessary to start a successful TNR program, along with tips on taming and re-homing those kittens and cats who aren't so wild that they cannot be turned into loving indoor pets.

PET Rx

Seeds a treat, not a complete diet

Seeds are parrot junk food and should be offered only as an occasional treat or used in trick training.

Pelleted foods should be the foundation of your bird's diet, complemented by a variety of healthy "people food." Fresh fruits and vegetables should be provided along with pasta, eggs, breads, rice and unsalted nuts in their shells.

Excessively fatty foods or overprocessed foods should be avoided, since many pet birds are prone to obesity. A good rule of thumb: If it's healthy for you, it's good for your bird, too. Do keep pellets and fresh, clean water available at all times.

In addition to rounding out a commercial diet, fruits, nuts and other people food give your bird something to keep him occupied and entertained. To that end, leave fresh food in as natural a form as possible. Clean it, of course, but make your bird work some to eat it.

Corn left on the cob is a great example of good food that also offers a fun challenge to eat. You can also find toys that are designed to hide food inside, making eating not only mentally challenging but also good exercise.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET BUY

Kong remains king of dog toys

Kong is king. The pet toy that's shaped like the Michelin tire man has come a long way since its creator adapted it from a rubber piece off the suspension system of an old VW van. There's one thing that hasn't changed, though: This is one toy that has stood up to countless dogs.

Why are Kongs so remarkable? Part of the answer is durability, and part is flexibility. The basic Kong model stands up to hours of chewing. The rope-equipped Kongs bounce erratically when they land to make "fetch" even more interesting. There's even a Kool Kong for water retrievers. (With three retrievers, I buy Kool Kongs in bulk.)

Probably more important is the use of Kongs to help dogs with time spent alone. A Kong stuffed with peanut butter and pieces of dog treats offers a harmless and healthy alternative to chewing the sofa or scratching the windowsill. There are Web pages devoted to the art of stuffing a Kong: loose filling for introducing the stuffed Kong, and tighter-stuffed and even frozen Kongs for dogs who just love to chew and have time to kill.

While Kongs are mostly sold to dog lovers, their appeal goes beyond the canine realm: A stuffed Kong is good for keeping parrots entertained and out of trouble.

I get news of dozens of new pet products every year and samples of dozens more. Most are just variations on some familiar themes, or are something new that's perhaps nice to have but in no way essential to keeping a pet happy. Few pet products truly stand the test of time. Kong is one of those rare exceptions.

Likes many veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists, I find myself recommending Kongs constantly. They're available in almost all pet-supply outlets. Prices vary by model and size.

PET TIP

Sticky litter meets its match

Clumping cat litter is great stuff indeed, but sometimes it gets where it shouldn't. Cats with silky, long hair can develop chronic problems with litter stuck to their fannies and the insides of their legs -- the moisture that catches on their fur from using the box attracts the litter. And then there's tracking: Moisture on a cat's paws can grab litter, which then gets rubbed off throughout the house.

Fortunately, you can minimize both problems.

With longhaired cats, if you're not inclined to comb out the spots that attract litter on at least a daily basis, then you should keep the trouble areas clipped short. As for tracking, putting a large sisal doormat under the litter box will help. The rough texture of the mat will help to knock the litter off your cat's paws as he exits the box.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A well-fitted collar with a current ID tag is arguably a pet's best chance at coming home again if lost, but it's not a perfect system. Some cats are experts at ditching collars, tags fall off or aren't kept updated, and pet thieves toss the collar the second they grab an animal.

For all these reasons and more, animal shelters have long been recommending high-tech microchips as a complement to the low-tech collar and tag.

About the size of a grain of rice, a microchip is implanted at a veterinary office or shelter, typically beneath the skin over an animal's shoulder blades. Once in place, the number on the chip can be read with a hand-held scanner, and that number is matched with contact information for a pet's owner.

Since microchips gained widespread acceptance in the '90s, millions of animals have been chipped. Even more important, hundreds of thousands of pets have been reunited with their families.

"Both recovery systems get a thousand calls a day," said Dr. Dan Knox, the veterinarian in charge of the companion-animal program of microchip manufacturer AVID. "Microchips work."

Unless they don't.

The recent introduction into the United States of a microchip that operates on a different frequency from the ones already in use has put a glitch into the nation's microchip system, with the potential for placing thousands of pets at risk if not resolved.

The microchip muddle began last year when Banfield-The Pet Hospital (the veterinary presence inside the retail giant Petsmart) started selling a chip that operates on a frequency recognized by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and is widely used outside of the United States.

There's debate over whether the U.S. should adopt international microchip standards -- it has been characterized as an issue similar to the country's lack of interest in adopting a metric system of measurement. But one issue isn't up for argument: Shelters using the current "universal" scanner can't read an ISO chip.

Citing concerns over the incompatibility issue, Banfield stopped its microchip program, but not before 26,000 animals were chipped. Banfield has since started advocating for a scanner that reads all chips, while the players already in the game, such as AVID, advocate an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach -- no ISO chip, no problem.

AVID is one of two major players in the U.S. market, with information on 18 million animals in its database. The other major microchip system, Companion Animal Recovery (CAR), is administered through the American Kennel Club using a microchip made by Schering-Plough. CAR has information on more than 2.7 million animals in its system.

In the nation's shelters, the people on the front lines just want a system they can work with to reunite animals with their families.

"The shelter community does not deserve to take the blame for putting an animal to death after missing a chip while corporate people play games," says John Snyder of the Humane Society of the United States and a member of the Coalition for Reuniting Pets and Families. "We say, 'OK, keep your AVID chip, keep your Schering-Plough chip -- heck, bring in an ISO chip. We don't care. We're looking for a universal scanner that can read them all.'"

For Snyder, the issue feels like a bad rerun. Feuding manufacturers and incompatible chips almost stopped the promising technology from getting off the ground in the first place. The problems were resolved when manufacturers decided to cooperate on a scanner than could read all chips then in use.

Whether the situation will be resolved similarly this time is still very much in the air.

SIDEBAR

What to do now

Pets now carrying ISO microchips are probably best implanted with a second chip that can be read by scanners currently in use in the nation's shelters. (Although ISO scanners have been widely donated, shelter staffers are unlikely to take additional time to scan a second time for a less-common microchip.)

For information about microchips now in use, contact CAR (www.akccar.org; 800-252-7894) or AVID (www.avidid.com/pets; 800-336-2843).

For information about the push to develop scanners than can read all microchips, ISO variety included, check out the Web site of the Coalition for Reuniting Pets and Families (www.readallchips.com).

Experts say it's essential for information on any microchipped pet to be kept current. Make it a priority for any change in contact information to be immediately updated with the microchip registry.

Q&A

More tips for greener lawns

Q: Would you please pass on more tips about having a green lawn and a dog? I recommend having a "before 3 p.m. place" in the yard and an "after 3 p.m. place." That way, no area gets hit twice in the same day with urine.

I agree about flushing the area with water, but I think that if someone depends on getting the hose and dragging it to the spot, it won't get done. It's more effective to set out several soup cans of water for this purpose, refilling them every couple of days. (Plus, the dog might feel threatened if the person went to the spigot before he was finished urinating.)

It's also important to offer water often, especially to a senior dog. I am not a veterinarian, but I do work in a convalescent hospital where we offer water regularly, because thirst is not a reliable indicator of the need for hydration.

Washing the dog's bowl daily (not merely refilling it) encourages drinking, as does putting some ice in the bowl to keep water cool when it's hot. Most of all, remind people to offer the bowl and then praise the dog for drinking. I think all these efforts have contributed to my dog's non-concentrated urine.

These steps take only a few moments on a regular basis, but I have never had a burnt patch of lawn. When I walk my dog and she has to squat on a neighbor's lawn, there's never a yellow spot from it. -- R.L., via e-mail

A: Your suggestions are practical along with being beneficial to the dog. That can't be said of some ideas I got from readers, many of whom had heard of things to add to a dog's food or water that just aren't a good idea -- such as salt.

I also heard from people who swore that spaying a dog helps with the urine-burn problem, but I can't say that I've ever known it to make a difference. Ditto with the idea of putting half-filled jugs of water out on the lawn to keep neighboring dogs away. This was big for a while in my old neighborhood, but it did absolutely nothing in my experiments with it. One of my dogs even took to lifting his leg on the jugs that were supposed to have driven him away.

The advice remains: If you can't limit your dog to using an out-of-sight place (either by training or by fencing), then be sure to dilute the urine promptly with water to minimize the lawn-damaging effect.

Budgie Facts

Q: I am thinking about adding a bird to my family and was thinking specifically about a budgie. What kind of investment will that entail? Are they messy? What kind of cage will I need? -- K.P., via e-mail

A: Budgies come in many colors and patterns, and two basic body types. The American style of budgie is slender and long compared to the husky, almost bulldog look of the English budgie. The personalities are the same, though.

Budgies are quite common and inexpensive compared to other parrots. Prices will vary and may start as low as $10, with rare colors on the higher side. It's worth paying more for a hand-raised bird, because taming an aviary-bred pet who has never been handled can be difficult.

All birds are messy, but a little budgie needs less cleaning up afterward than will a larger parrot.

Because they're so common, budgies are often dismissed as "just" a children's pet. But a friendly budgie can be a loving and entertaining pet for anyone regardless of age or bird-care experience.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET PLATES

Florida to issue newest pet plates

At the end of May, Florida becomes the most recent state to issue vehicle license plates that promote and support the control of pet overpopulation through spay-neuter efforts. The "Animal Friend" plates feature a colorful illustration of a cat and a dog playing on a beach. (More information is at www.floridaanimalfriend.com.)

More pet plates:

P.D., Brookings, S.D.: I have my own business called Paula -- The Pet Sitter, so I got special license plates. I love being with animals, so it's the purrfect job for me!

My job can be harder than you might think, though. I've had to take animals to the veterinarian in emergency situations because they've gotten sick while their owners were away, and I've had to call repairmen when clients' furnaces have malfunctioned.

I have eight indoor cats (Himalayan and Persian) and two dogs (terrier mix and a Sheltie). I provide a foster home for baby kittens for our local humane society. My husband and I have no children, so we completely spoil our critters. We take separate vacations, if we take time off at all, so our pets are not alone.

(Got a pet-related license plate? Send a jpeg image and the story behind it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

Pet Rx

Fleas may not be so easy to see

Just because you can't see fleas doesn't mean your dog doesn't have them. It takes only a few fleas to cause misery, and often, by the time people start noticing fleas, the animal already has a severe infestation.

Here's an easy way to figure out if fleas are the problem: Put your pet on a white or very light-colored sheet and run your fingers through her fur, going against the grain. Then look at the sheet. If you see what looks like flecks of pepper on the sheet, then your pet has fleas. Those little dots are flea excrement, which is made up of dried blood. (If you're really curious, add a drop of water to one of the flecks and it will turn red.)

If fleas are present, talk to your veterinarian about flea-control products. These products have a wide margin of safety for healthy pets and are effective against fleas. You can also keep flea levels down in your home by washing pet bedding regularly and vacuuming areas where pets hang out.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

The Scoop

Buyer beware: Sick bird will cost you

Most parrots are pretty expensive, with prices for healthy, well-socialized birds starting in the hundreds of dollars and heading up dramatically from there. With that kind of money at stake, it pays to be careful!

One of the best ways to find a good pet parrot prospect is to ask an avian veterinarian for a referral to a reputable breeder or bird shop. You should also be familiar with signs of good health in any bird you're considering. A healthy bird will:

-- Behave normally, perching without problems and moving with coordination, using the full body without favoring one side or the other. The bird should bear weight evenly, with all four toes present on each foot and in proper position -- two toes forward, two backward.

-- Be alert and responsive.

-- Breathe easily, with no sign of laboring and no tail-bobbing, which is another indicator of breathing problems.

-- Have eyes, ears and nostrils that are clean and free of debris and discharge.

-- Have healthy plumage. Feathers should have normal color and structure, showing no signs of excessive wear or horizontal lines indicating problems with feather development. There should be no sign of feather-picking, nor any broken feathers caused by improper housing or other damage.

-- Consistently produce droppings that are normal in appearance and have all three components: urine (liquid), feces (solids) and urates (white semi-solids). There should be no pasting of waste on the bird's fanny.

-- Have a well-muscled body that's not obese, with smooth, undamaged skin under the feathers.

A bird who's exhibiting even one or two of these general signs of illness needs prompt veterinary attention. Because birds showing any sign of illness are often very sick indeed, you may be taking on more than you bargain for if you buy such a bird. And you may end up paying for a bird who cannot be saved.

On the Web

Lots to learn on Persian site

With their long, silky coats and large, beautiful eyes, Persians remain among the most popular of all cat breeds. For those who love Persians, as well as anyone who's thinking of getting one, www.Persian-Cats.com is a must-stop spot on the Internet.

For someone just starting to research, there's information on the history of the breed, current variations in coat colors and patterns, health issues and how to find a reputable breeder. A search on nutrition turned up a piece by a woman who feeds her cat "pinkies" -- infant mice usually sold as snake food. "It's a complete meal," she notes.

Visitors to the Web site are required to register before they can have access to chat and bulletin-board areas. Registration is free and fast, and the chats can be lively. Finally, the site offers lots of wonderful pictures of these stunningly beautiful cats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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