A dog show has to be one of few competitive endeavors in which the majority of spectators don't know who the players are and don't really care who wins.

Most people come to a show to see beautiful dogs, buy a new leash or toy, or even try to figure out the answer that old question: Do people look like their dogs?

The dog show season runs almost year-around -- with gap around Christmas -- and hits a high point at the prestige shows early each year: The American Kennel Club's national championship and historic Westminster.

The moderate weather of spring makes this one of the better times to catch a dog show, and there are shows going on all across the country every weekend.

Some tips to get the most out of your trip:

-- Dress appropriately. Comfortable shoes are a must, and clothing that can adjust to temperature changes is also advisable if the show's outdoors. If you're researching a breed or looking for a breeder, bring a notebook and pen. Since shopping is a major dog show activity, consider bringing a tote bag to haul away your goodies. Seating is often in short supply, so if you have one of those collapsible cloth camping seats, bring it.

-- Get a program. Different breeds show at different times in different rings. Most larger shows will have a free one-page directory to rings and times. If you're on a research mission, pay for the full catalog, which lists the dogs in competition and is a good resource in the hunt for a reputable breeder.

-- Beware of handler. Sometimes the dogs can be friendlier than the people with them. Although many professional handlers will take time to answer questions if you ask when it's convenient, others consider spectators an unwelcome distraction from the hard work of getting a dog groomed and shown. It's probably best to avoid the big setups of the top professional handlers and look for a person with just a couple of dogs, such as a breeder or owner who's handling her own dogs.

-- Beware of dog. Show dogs are generally well-behaved and well-socialized, but common sense dictates asking a handler's permission before petting a dog. The grooming that goes into some breeds is so time-consuming and elaborate that it's often best to wait until after competition to pet a dog, anyway. Ask before petting, and you never go wrong.

-- Enjoy the show. Dog shows are often stressful for competitors at both ends of the leash, but they should be pure enjoyment for spectators. Take time to visit all the vendors, watch both people and dogs -- the people are often more interesting -- and find where the obedience competition is for a change from the "beauty show" aspect of the larger event.

The American Kennel Club sanctions the majority of dog competitions. To find an upcoming show in your area, use the events search function on the AKC's Web site (www.akc.org).

Many smaller dog shows are free for spectators, but larger ones usually charge admission and possibly even parking, depending on the venue. The events listings of local newspapers usually will have information on start times and admission prices for larger shows. Typically, judging starts at 8 a.m. and culminates with "group" and "best in show" competitions in late afternoon.

The dog-watching, people-watching and goody-buying last all day.

SIDEBAR

How it works

At an all-breed dog show, two different competitions are being played out.

Dogs who are not champions compete within their own breed for "points." Championships require 15 points and are awarded according to the number of dogs competing in a breed. The more popular a breed, the higher the number of dogs that must be defeated per point.

The breed ring is also the launching pad for the show's other competition, where dogs who are already champions compete for Group and Best In Show wins. These dogs start by competing against other champions of their breed. Each best of breed advances to compete against other breed winners in their group -- working, toy, herding, etc. The seven group winners then compete for Best In Show.

Group and Best In Show wins are important in determining national rankings, and in landing invitations to the most prestigious shows, such as Westminster and the AKC national championship.

Q&A

Dog declawing not an option

Q: My arms are ripped to bits from my dog's habit of jumping up and clawing me. Trimming is a wrestling match, and walking her on hard surfaces isn't helping. I'm getting to the end of my rope on this problem. Can dogs have their claws removed like cats can? -- N.W., via e-mail

A: While a dog's claws could in theory be surgically removed, it's not commonly done, and you'd have a difficult time finding a veterinarian who'd agree to such a thing.

Instead, get a trainer's help in teaching your dog to keep her feet on the ground. If the nails are really overgrown, consider having your veterinarian cut them all the way back while your dog is under sedation. This will give you a fresh start to the problem, so trimming a little off each week after the quick recedes will keep the nails short. And unless your dog is doing miles and miles of sidewalk time a week, walking on hard surfaces won't help with the nail-length issue.

Don't make nail-trim time a battle. Start slowly by handling your dog's paws without trimming nails and build up your pet's tolerance through treats and praise.

Some dogs do better having their nails ground down rather than cut. You can buy an appliance designed to grind dog nails, or use a rotary tool such as the Dremel to do the same thing. The advantage to grinding is that you won't go too far -- as soon as you see the quick, you stop. As with using a nail-trimming, make sure you introduce a grinder slowly and gradually, with lots of praise and treats along the way.

There are several new nail-trim tools that have just come on the market, and I'll be reporting on them in a future column.

Two pups not always better than one

Q: Would it be a good idea to get two puppies at once? I'm not home much and worry about leaving a puppy alone. Would getting two help to ease their loneliness? -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Are you sure you're not too busy to have a dog? If you're never home, you really need to reconsider having a pet of any kind. But even if you were home all day long, I don't recommend getting two puppies at once.

Two puppies raised together will often bond more tightly with each other than with the human members of the house, especially if the pups are from the same litter. Experienced show breeders, who often "grow out" a pair of promising puppies, routinely get around this problem by sending one of the youngsters to be raised by another breeder.

House-training can be a challenge with two puppies because one may not get the concept as quickly as the other. Fresh messes from the one who's not getting it may prompt backsliding in the other pup. Obedience training and all-important socialization can also be hard, since you have to find the time to work with each puppy individually.

If you really do have time for a dog and wish to have two dogs more or less "instantly," I'd recommend adopting two adults. Rescue groups and shelters often have dogs that were abandoned together and would be heartbroken if split up. These pairs are already companionable and can help keep each other company during the time you're away.

Puppies are wonderful, but there's a lot to be said about skipping those crazy first months of their lives. For many families, an adult dog is flat-out a better match.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Humane options for feral cats

Perhaps the one good thing to come out of all the hissing over the Wisconsin cat-shooting proposal is broader exposure for alternative methods for controlling feral cats.

There is another option besides killing them or letting them be.

Humane advocates for years have been practicing "trap, neuter, release" (TNR) methods of control, with the idea that a colony of healthy managed ferals incapable of reproduction will keep other cats from colonizing a food-rich environment. TNR control methods are successfully practiced in many communities and in such places as on college campuses.

Although many humane organizations endorse and support TNR efforts, Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) has done the most to advocate for kinder treatment for feral cats. The group's Web site has everything necessary to start a successful TNR program, along with tips on taming and re-homing those kittens and cats who aren't so wild that they cannot be turned into loving indoor pets.

PET Rx

Seeds a treat, not a complete diet

Seeds are parrot junk food and should be offered only as an occasional treat or used in trick training.

Pelleted foods should be the foundation of your bird's diet, complemented by a variety of healthy "people food." Fresh fruits and vegetables should be provided along with pasta, eggs, breads, rice and unsalted nuts in their shells.

Excessively fatty foods or overprocessed foods should be avoided, since many pet birds are prone to obesity. A good rule of thumb: If it's healthy for you, it's good for your bird, too. Do keep pellets and fresh, clean water available at all times.

In addition to rounding out a commercial diet, fruits, nuts and other people food give your bird something to keep him occupied and entertained. To that end, leave fresh food in as natural a form as possible. Clean it, of course, but make your bird work some to eat it.

Corn left on the cob is a great example of good food that also offers a fun challenge to eat. You can also find toys that are designed to hide food inside, making eating not only mentally challenging but also good exercise.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET BUY

Kong remains king of dog toys

Kong is king. The pet toy that's shaped like the Michelin tire man has come a long way since its creator adapted it from a rubber piece off the suspension system of an old VW van. There's one thing that hasn't changed, though: This is one toy that has stood up to countless dogs.

Why are Kongs so remarkable? Part of the answer is durability, and part is flexibility. The basic Kong model stands up to hours of chewing. The rope-equipped Kongs bounce erratically when they land to make "fetch" even more interesting. There's even a Kool Kong for water retrievers. (With three retrievers, I buy Kool Kongs in bulk.)

Probably more important is the use of Kongs to help dogs with time spent alone. A Kong stuffed with peanut butter and pieces of dog treats offers a harmless and healthy alternative to chewing the sofa or scratching the windowsill. There are Web pages devoted to the art of stuffing a Kong: loose filling for introducing the stuffed Kong, and tighter-stuffed and even frozen Kongs for dogs who just love to chew and have time to kill.

While Kongs are mostly sold to dog lovers, their appeal goes beyond the canine realm: A stuffed Kong is good for keeping parrots entertained and out of trouble.

I get news of dozens of new pet products every year and samples of dozens more. Most are just variations on some familiar themes, or are something new that's perhaps nice to have but in no way essential to keeping a pet happy. Few pet products truly stand the test of time. Kong is one of those rare exceptions.

Likes many veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists, I find myself recommending Kongs constantly. They're available in almost all pet-supply outlets. Prices vary by model and size.

PET TIP

Sticky litter meets its match

Clumping cat litter is great stuff indeed, but sometimes it gets where it shouldn't. Cats with silky, long hair can develop chronic problems with litter stuck to their fannies and the insides of their legs -- the moisture that catches on their fur from using the box attracts the litter. And then there's tracking: Moisture on a cat's paws can grab litter, which then gets rubbed off throughout the house.

Fortunately, you can minimize both problems.

With longhaired cats, if you're not inclined to comb out the spots that attract litter on at least a daily basis, then you should keep the trouble areas clipped short. As for tracking, putting a large sisal doormat under the litter box will help. The rough texture of the mat will help to knock the litter off your cat's paws as he exits the box.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A well-fitted collar with a current ID tag is arguably a pet's best chance at coming home again if lost, but it's not a perfect system. Some cats are experts at ditching collars, tags fall off or aren't kept updated, and pet thieves toss the collar the second they grab an animal.

For all these reasons and more, animal shelters have long been recommending high-tech microchips as a complement to the low-tech collar and tag.

About the size of a grain of rice, a microchip is implanted at a veterinary office or shelter, typically beneath the skin over an animal's shoulder blades. Once in place, the number on the chip can be read with a hand-held scanner, and that number is matched with contact information for a pet's owner.

Since microchips gained widespread acceptance in the '90s, millions of animals have been chipped. Even more important, hundreds of thousands of pets have been reunited with their families.

"Both recovery systems get a thousand calls a day," said Dr. Dan Knox, the veterinarian in charge of the companion-animal program of microchip manufacturer AVID. "Microchips work."

Unless they don't.

The recent introduction into the United States of a microchip that operates on a different frequency from the ones already in use has put a glitch into the nation's microchip system, with the potential for placing thousands of pets at risk if not resolved.

The microchip muddle began last year when Banfield-The Pet Hospital (the veterinary presence inside the retail giant Petsmart) started selling a chip that operates on a frequency recognized by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and is widely used outside of the United States.

There's debate over whether the U.S. should adopt international microchip standards -- it has been characterized as an issue similar to the country's lack of interest in adopting a metric system of measurement. But one issue isn't up for argument: Shelters using the current "universal" scanner can't read an ISO chip.

Citing concerns over the incompatibility issue, Banfield stopped its microchip program, but not before 26,000 animals were chipped. Banfield has since started advocating for a scanner that reads all chips, while the players already in the game, such as AVID, advocate an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach -- no ISO chip, no problem.

AVID is one of two major players in the U.S. market, with information on 18 million animals in its database. The other major microchip system, Companion Animal Recovery (CAR), is administered through the American Kennel Club using a microchip made by Schering-Plough. CAR has information on more than 2.7 million animals in its system.

In the nation's shelters, the people on the front lines just want a system they can work with to reunite animals with their families.

"The shelter community does not deserve to take the blame for putting an animal to death after missing a chip while corporate people play games," says John Snyder of the Humane Society of the United States and a member of the Coalition for Reuniting Pets and Families. "We say, 'OK, keep your AVID chip, keep your Schering-Plough chip -- heck, bring in an ISO chip. We don't care. We're looking for a universal scanner that can read them all.'"

For Snyder, the issue feels like a bad rerun. Feuding manufacturers and incompatible chips almost stopped the promising technology from getting off the ground in the first place. The problems were resolved when manufacturers decided to cooperate on a scanner than could read all chips then in use.

Whether the situation will be resolved similarly this time is still very much in the air.

SIDEBAR

What to do now

Pets now carrying ISO microchips are probably best implanted with a second chip that can be read by scanners currently in use in the nation's shelters. (Although ISO scanners have been widely donated, shelter staffers are unlikely to take additional time to scan a second time for a less-common microchip.)

For information about microchips now in use, contact CAR (www.akccar.org; 800-252-7894) or AVID (www.avidid.com/pets; 800-336-2843).

For information about the push to develop scanners than can read all microchips, ISO variety included, check out the Web site of the Coalition for Reuniting Pets and Families (www.readallchips.com).

Experts say it's essential for information on any microchipped pet to be kept current. Make it a priority for any change in contact information to be immediately updated with the microchip registry.

Q&A

More tips for greener lawns

Q: Would you please pass on more tips about having a green lawn and a dog? I recommend having a "before 3 p.m. place" in the yard and an "after 3 p.m. place." That way, no area gets hit twice in the same day with urine.

I agree about flushing the area with water, but I think that if someone depends on getting the hose and dragging it to the spot, it won't get done. It's more effective to set out several soup cans of water for this purpose, refilling them every couple of days. (Plus, the dog might feel threatened if the person went to the spigot before he was finished urinating.)

It's also important to offer water often, especially to a senior dog. I am not a veterinarian, but I do work in a convalescent hospital where we offer water regularly, because thirst is not a reliable indicator of the need for hydration.

Washing the dog's bowl daily (not merely refilling it) encourages drinking, as does putting some ice in the bowl to keep water cool when it's hot. Most of all, remind people to offer the bowl and then praise the dog for drinking. I think all these efforts have contributed to my dog's non-concentrated urine.

These steps take only a few moments on a regular basis, but I have never had a burnt patch of lawn. When I walk my dog and she has to squat on a neighbor's lawn, there's never a yellow spot from it. -- R.L., via e-mail

A: Your suggestions are practical along with being beneficial to the dog. That can't be said of some ideas I got from readers, many of whom had heard of things to add to a dog's food or water that just aren't a good idea -- such as salt.

I also heard from people who swore that spaying a dog helps with the urine-burn problem, but I can't say that I've ever known it to make a difference. Ditto with the idea of putting half-filled jugs of water out on the lawn to keep neighboring dogs away. This was big for a while in my old neighborhood, but it did absolutely nothing in my experiments with it. One of my dogs even took to lifting his leg on the jugs that were supposed to have driven him away.

The advice remains: If you can't limit your dog to using an out-of-sight place (either by training or by fencing), then be sure to dilute the urine promptly with water to minimize the lawn-damaging effect.

Budgie Facts

Q: I am thinking about adding a bird to my family and was thinking specifically about a budgie. What kind of investment will that entail? Are they messy? What kind of cage will I need? -- K.P., via e-mail

A: Budgies come in many colors and patterns, and two basic body types. The American style of budgie is slender and long compared to the husky, almost bulldog look of the English budgie. The personalities are the same, though.

Budgies are quite common and inexpensive compared to other parrots. Prices will vary and may start as low as $10, with rare colors on the higher side. It's worth paying more for a hand-raised bird, because taming an aviary-bred pet who has never been handled can be difficult.

All birds are messy, but a little budgie needs less cleaning up afterward than will a larger parrot.

Because they're so common, budgies are often dismissed as "just" a children's pet. But a friendly budgie can be a loving and entertaining pet for anyone regardless of age or bird-care experience.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET PLATES

Florida to issue newest pet plates

At the end of May, Florida becomes the most recent state to issue vehicle license plates that promote and support the control of pet overpopulation through spay-neuter efforts. The "Animal Friend" plates feature a colorful illustration of a cat and a dog playing on a beach. (More information is at www.floridaanimalfriend.com.)

More pet plates:

P.D., Brookings, S.D.: I have my own business called Paula -- The Pet Sitter, so I got special license plates. I love being with animals, so it's the purrfect job for me!

My job can be harder than you might think, though. I've had to take animals to the veterinarian in emergency situations because they've gotten sick while their owners were away, and I've had to call repairmen when clients' furnaces have malfunctioned.

I have eight indoor cats (Himalayan and Persian) and two dogs (terrier mix and a Sheltie). I provide a foster home for baby kittens for our local humane society. My husband and I have no children, so we completely spoil our critters. We take separate vacations, if we take time off at all, so our pets are not alone.

(Got a pet-related license plate? Send a jpeg image and the story behind it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

Pet Rx

Fleas may not be so easy to see

Just because you can't see fleas doesn't mean your dog doesn't have them. It takes only a few fleas to cause misery, and often, by the time people start noticing fleas, the animal already has a severe infestation.

Here's an easy way to figure out if fleas are the problem: Put your pet on a white or very light-colored sheet and run your fingers through her fur, going against the grain. Then look at the sheet. If you see what looks like flecks of pepper on the sheet, then your pet has fleas. Those little dots are flea excrement, which is made up of dried blood. (If you're really curious, add a drop of water to one of the flecks and it will turn red.)

If fleas are present, talk to your veterinarian about flea-control products. These products have a wide margin of safety for healthy pets and are effective against fleas. You can also keep flea levels down in your home by washing pet bedding regularly and vacuuming areas where pets hang out.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

The Scoop

Buyer beware: Sick bird will cost you

Most parrots are pretty expensive, with prices for healthy, well-socialized birds starting in the hundreds of dollars and heading up dramatically from there. With that kind of money at stake, it pays to be careful!

One of the best ways to find a good pet parrot prospect is to ask an avian veterinarian for a referral to a reputable breeder or bird shop. You should also be familiar with signs of good health in any bird you're considering. A healthy bird will:

-- Behave normally, perching without problems and moving with coordination, using the full body without favoring one side or the other. The bird should bear weight evenly, with all four toes present on each foot and in proper position -- two toes forward, two backward.

-- Be alert and responsive.

-- Breathe easily, with no sign of laboring and no tail-bobbing, which is another indicator of breathing problems.

-- Have eyes, ears and nostrils that are clean and free of debris and discharge.

-- Have healthy plumage. Feathers should have normal color and structure, showing no signs of excessive wear or horizontal lines indicating problems with feather development. There should be no sign of feather-picking, nor any broken feathers caused by improper housing or other damage.

-- Consistently produce droppings that are normal in appearance and have all three components: urine (liquid), feces (solids) and urates (white semi-solids). There should be no pasting of waste on the bird's fanny.

-- Have a well-muscled body that's not obese, with smooth, undamaged skin under the feathers.

A bird who's exhibiting even one or two of these general signs of illness needs prompt veterinary attention. Because birds showing any sign of illness are often very sick indeed, you may be taking on more than you bargain for if you buy such a bird. And you may end up paying for a bird who cannot be saved.

On the Web

Lots to learn on Persian site

With their long, silky coats and large, beautiful eyes, Persians remain among the most popular of all cat breeds. For those who love Persians, as well as anyone who's thinking of getting one, www.Persian-Cats.com is a must-stop spot on the Internet.

For someone just starting to research, there's information on the history of the breed, current variations in coat colors and patterns, health issues and how to find a reputable breeder. A search on nutrition turned up a piece by a woman who feeds her cat "pinkies" -- infant mice usually sold as snake food. "It's a complete meal," she notes.

Visitors to the Web site are required to register before they can have access to chat and bulletin-board areas. Registration is free and fast, and the chats can be lively. Finally, the site offers lots of wonderful pictures of these stunningly beautiful cats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Anyone who has ever pulled out a credit card at the emergency clinic for something that wasn't as dire as it seemed comes away wishing for a better knowledge of what constitutes an urgent situation -- and what doesn't. But as big an "ouch" as a non-emergency can be to the budget, it's a lot better than the opposite situation: an emergency that goes untreated until it's too late for your pet.

But how can you tell? The signs of a healthy pet are pretty apparent to an observant pet owner: bright, clear eyes with no sign of discharge; clean ears, free of buildup or smell; a mouth not overpowered by its odor, with pink gums free of infection; a nose that appears moist, with no discharge; a shiny coat, with unblemished skin below that snaps back easily when pulled away from the shoulders. A healthy attitude, with normal appetite and thirst are part of the package, too, without signs of intestinal upset. No lameness, no swelling. No lumps, no bumps. No heavy panting.

Anything to the contrary is reason to have a pet checked. But is it a "go to the veterinarian this very minute" emergency?

The first way to start finding out is with a thermometer. To take your pet's temperature, put a little water-based lubricant on the tip of the thermometer and insert it in the animal's fanny. After a minute or so, remove and check the temperature. Normal is between 100 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit for dogs and cats; anything below 99 or above 103 is worth checking with a veterinarian, day or night.

Some other "see the vet now" indicators include seizure, fainting or collapse, as well as any suspected poisoning (including antifreeze, rodent poison, snail bait or human medication). Snake or spider bites, too, demand immediate attention. Cats in particular can be fatally sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medications that are safe for dogs), petroleum-based products or medications such as Tylenol.

Sometimes situations that might not seem urgent really are, such as eye injuries or allergic reactions -- swelling around the face or hives. A single incident of vomiting or diarrhea is probably nothing, but anything more than two or three times within an hour or so could indicate a serious problem. Other signs of possible serious conditions are breathing problems, chronic coughing or difficulties urinating or defecating, the latter especially in cats.

Animals can sometimes seem fine after accidents, such as being hit by a car, exposed to extreme heat or cold, or being cut or bitten. Even if your pet looks OK, you need to take him to a veterinarian right away to check for internal injuries that can kill if left untreated.

There are also situations that may not be life-threatening but are certainly painful enough to warrant immediate veterinary attention. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy or restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding, or crying out. While it may be possible to wait until your regular veterinarian is available, put yourself in your pet's place. Don't let your pet suffer!

When in doubt, call your veterinarian. It's better to make a trip you needn't have made than to miss the one you should have made.

SIDEBAR

Prepare a first-aid kit

Every home with pets needs a first-aid kit just for animals.

The basics include: adhesive tape, antihistamines (such as Benadryl), antiseptic (such as Betadine), cotton (balls, swabs and rolls), tweezers, hydrogen peroxide, styptic powder (such as Kwik Stop), scissors, sterile gauze (pads and rolls), pet thermometer, antibiotic ointment, clear plastic cling wrap (such as Saran Wrap), activated charcoal, and a water-based lubricating jelly (such as K-Y). Add a soft fabric muzzle (for dogs) or a restraint bag (for cats), since an animal in pain may lash out.

If you don't want to put a kit together, buy a ready-made kit from pet-supply outlets, or directly from a manufacturer such as Pet Pak (www.petpak.com; 800-223-5765), which offers kits in three sizes in prices from $6 to $40.

Tuck into any kit your veterinarian's phone number, and the phone number of the closest after-hours clinic if your veterinarian isn't on call. Finally, add a book on first-aid: Amy Shojai's "The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" (Rodale Books, $20) is one of the best.

Q&A

'Alternative' care gains a following

Q: I saw your piece about acupuncture recently, and I'd like to know more about what "holistic" pet care entails. It seems like there are a lot of different techniques involved. Are these legit? -- W.G., via e-mail

A: Call it anything you like -- including "Eastern" or "holistic" -- "alternative" care is hot in human medicine and, not surprisingly, in veterinary medicine as well. Lumped under the term "alternative" is a wide range of treatment options, from acupuncture to chiropractic to homeopathy to herbal medicine.

In holistic medicine, the whole patient is generally the focus, rather than the specific disease. "Western" medicine does better with acute illness, such as a bacterial infection, or with trauma, such as a broken leg. Alternative medicine's strength is often in dealing with more chronic conditions, such as arthritis.

Some veterinarians originally trained in Western medicine have furthered their study and now practice alternative care exclusively. Many others accept elements of alternative care as a complement to Western medicine. For my own pets, especially the seniors, I have had good results over the last few years with this "integrative" approach -- mixing the best of Western practice with alternative care, primarily acupuncture.

As for legitimacy, some alternative treatments have been practiced for centuries, with good results. But I also see advertisements for "miracle cures" that seem to be little more than snake oil, taking advantage of a pet-lover's emotions. As always, work with your veterinarian (Western or alternative), ask what the benefits and risks are to any treatment, and do your own independent research to help you to make sound decisions on your pet's care.

The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (www.ahvma.org) is a good place to start finding out more about alternatives to Western-style medicine for pets.

No free-fly zone

Q: I have a friend whose wife told their son that birds don't need to be kept in their cages. She says it's OK for them to fly free around the house.

Isn't that unsafe for the birds? Isn't that unsanitary? Where can I get specific information about this? -- L.A., via e-mail

A: Flying free certainly can be unsafe for birds. Pet birds aren't born with the ability to recognize household hazards such as ceiling fans and pots of boiling water, nor are they very clear on the concept of windows, which may seem invisible to a free-flying bird. Not to mention: A bird with unclipped wings is at risk of flying out a door or window. Once outside, a bird may be impossible to recapture.

Unsanitary? Well, sure, a house with bird droppings all over it is certainly unappealing. Still, it's not that big a problem for anyone committed to cleaning up quickly with spray of cleaning solution and a wipe with a damp cloth.

There's another option to letting birds fly freely in the house: Keep their wings clipped for safety and offer them supervised out-of-cage recreation. While freedom isn't a good idea for finches and canaries, most parrots (and that includes everything from budgies and cockatiels to Amazons and macaws) need more than what even the largest cage can offer them.

Spending an entire life in a cage is just too sad and boring for these highly intelligent pets. Let them enjoy plenty of supervised out-of-cage time with toys, play gyms, trick-training or just hanging out with family members. Birds who are well-socialized and active are happier, healthier pets.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Chewable pet cards sure to be a hit

In the new products showcase at Global Pet Expo, I was looking at one new product with particular interest when I noticed I wasn't the only one so captivated. The folks who buy for pet-supply retailers were interested, too.

In an area in the massive trade show where most products were merely new takes on old ideas, the Crunchkins pet greeting cards really stood out. The dog cards are edible, made of thin rawhide and printed with safe food dyes. The cat cards are made to be played with and have catnip toys attached to the card face with non-toxic glue.

Invented by a veterinarian, the cards are brightly colored with sentiments that are cute but not too much. Examples: "Just Be-Paws I Love You," "Friends Fur-Ever." (OK, maybe some are little too cute.) The company has recently expanded with a collection of edible Christmas tree ornaments that are probably best hung away from the tree if you don't want your dog to dismantle your holiday display.

Suggested retail is $5 for the cards and $15 for the collection of ornaments. The Crunchkins line is available from gift and pet-supply stores.

On The Web

Fine fish facts in one location

No matter your level of interest and expertise, if you like fish, you'll like Fish Link Central (www.fishlinkcentral.com). This simple site offers information on all kinds of fish-keeping, from goldfish and guppies to the most elaborate saltwater reef systems and outdoor ponds.

Fish Link Central also features plenty of fish pictures, live chats and an ask-the-expert forum. Even if you're not that interested in setting up a tank of your own, you can have fun here, with fish-related computer games, such as fish concentration. Some of the quizzes seem to be especially geared to further the fish knowledge of school-age children.

You'll also find plenty of links to other fish sites, although some patience is needed to weed through the ones that don't work anymore. Keeping links current is no small measure for a Web site that tries to offer them all.

Pet tip

Regular brushing can tame spring shed

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, and that means hair everywhere.

The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, Samoyeds and malamutes. These breeds carry a protective overcoat of long hair as well as an insulating undercoat that's soft and fuzzy. These breeds lose masses of fur from both these coats in spring and fall, but the clumps that come out of the undercoat are especially noticeable.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as longhairs, but since the hair these dogs drop is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders -- even the heaviest -- can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on your furniture.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific advice in regard to the proper kind of grooming equipment. The slicker brush that works fine on a close-cropped poodle may not make much headway in the thick mane of a full-coated Alaskan malamute at the height of a seasonal shed.

Shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding. Ask your veterinarian for advice if your pet's coat condition seems too dull, or if you notice excessive hair loss.

THE SCOOP

Catnip cat toys near century mark

It's hard to imagine now, but there was a time when cats were kept mostly for the purpose of keeping mice in check. While no doubt there have always been a few people who loved cats for themselves and not for their usefulness, the love we have for cats today would astonish people from earlier centuries.

In a way, you can trace the development of the cat as pet to the interest cat owners have had in spending money to keep them amused. And that's a history that goes back little more than a century.

One of the earliest cat toys was invented by Dr. A.C. Daniels, who patented his Catnip Ball in 1907. The wooden ball was hollow for putting catnip in -- his own special brand, preferably. Daniels offered other toys such as a gray flannel mouse, and the company, founded in Boston in 1878, is still making cat toys today.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600