pets

Microchip Muddle

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | May 2nd, 2005

A well-fitted collar with a current ID tag is arguably a pet's best chance at coming home again if lost, but it's not a perfect system. Some cats are experts at ditching collars, tags fall off or aren't kept updated, and pet thieves toss the collar the second they grab an animal.

For all these reasons and more, animal shelters have long been recommending high-tech microchips as a complement to the low-tech collar and tag.

About the size of a grain of rice, a microchip is implanted at a veterinary office or shelter, typically beneath the skin over an animal's shoulder blades. Once in place, the number on the chip can be read with a hand-held scanner, and that number is matched with contact information for a pet's owner.

Since microchips gained widespread acceptance in the '90s, millions of animals have been chipped. Even more important, hundreds of thousands of pets have been reunited with their families.

"Both recovery systems get a thousand calls a day," said Dr. Dan Knox, the veterinarian in charge of the companion-animal program of microchip manufacturer AVID. "Microchips work."

Unless they don't.

The recent introduction into the United States of a microchip that operates on a different frequency from the ones already in use has put a glitch into the nation's microchip system, with the potential for placing thousands of pets at risk if not resolved.

The microchip muddle began last year when Banfield-The Pet Hospital (the veterinary presence inside the retail giant Petsmart) started selling a chip that operates on a frequency recognized by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and is widely used outside of the United States.

There's debate over whether the U.S. should adopt international microchip standards -- it has been characterized as an issue similar to the country's lack of interest in adopting a metric system of measurement. But one issue isn't up for argument: Shelters using the current "universal" scanner can't read an ISO chip.

Citing concerns over the incompatibility issue, Banfield stopped its microchip program, but not before 26,000 animals were chipped. Banfield has since started advocating for a scanner that reads all chips, while the players already in the game, such as AVID, advocate an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach -- no ISO chip, no problem.

AVID is one of two major players in the U.S. market, with information on 18 million animals in its database. The other major microchip system, Companion Animal Recovery (CAR), is administered through the American Kennel Club using a microchip made by Schering-Plough. CAR has information on more than 2.7 million animals in its system.

In the nation's shelters, the people on the front lines just want a system they can work with to reunite animals with their families.

"The shelter community does not deserve to take the blame for putting an animal to death after missing a chip while corporate people play games," says John Snyder of the Humane Society of the United States and a member of the Coalition for Reuniting Pets and Families. "We say, 'OK, keep your AVID chip, keep your Schering-Plough chip -- heck, bring in an ISO chip. We don't care. We're looking for a universal scanner that can read them all.'"

For Snyder, the issue feels like a bad rerun. Feuding manufacturers and incompatible chips almost stopped the promising technology from getting off the ground in the first place. The problems were resolved when manufacturers decided to cooperate on a scanner than could read all chips then in use.

Whether the situation will be resolved similarly this time is still very much in the air.

SIDEBAR

What to do now

Pets now carrying ISO microchips are probably best implanted with a second chip that can be read by scanners currently in use in the nation's shelters. (Although ISO scanners have been widely donated, shelter staffers are unlikely to take additional time to scan a second time for a less-common microchip.)

For information about microchips now in use, contact CAR (www.akccar.org; 800-252-7894) or AVID (www.avidid.com/pets; 800-336-2843).

For information about the push to develop scanners than can read all microchips, ISO variety included, check out the Web site of the Coalition for Reuniting Pets and Families (www.readallchips.com).

Experts say it's essential for information on any microchipped pet to be kept current. Make it a priority for any change in contact information to be immediately updated with the microchip registry.

Q&A

More tips for greener lawns

Q: Would you please pass on more tips about having a green lawn and a dog? I recommend having a "before 3 p.m. place" in the yard and an "after 3 p.m. place." That way, no area gets hit twice in the same day with urine.

I agree about flushing the area with water, but I think that if someone depends on getting the hose and dragging it to the spot, it won't get done. It's more effective to set out several soup cans of water for this purpose, refilling them every couple of days. (Plus, the dog might feel threatened if the person went to the spigot before he was finished urinating.)

It's also important to offer water often, especially to a senior dog. I am not a veterinarian, but I do work in a convalescent hospital where we offer water regularly, because thirst is not a reliable indicator of the need for hydration.

Washing the dog's bowl daily (not merely refilling it) encourages drinking, as does putting some ice in the bowl to keep water cool when it's hot. Most of all, remind people to offer the bowl and then praise the dog for drinking. I think all these efforts have contributed to my dog's non-concentrated urine.

These steps take only a few moments on a regular basis, but I have never had a burnt patch of lawn. When I walk my dog and she has to squat on a neighbor's lawn, there's never a yellow spot from it. -- R.L., via e-mail

A: Your suggestions are practical along with being beneficial to the dog. That can't be said of some ideas I got from readers, many of whom had heard of things to add to a dog's food or water that just aren't a good idea -- such as salt.

I also heard from people who swore that spaying a dog helps with the urine-burn problem, but I can't say that I've ever known it to make a difference. Ditto with the idea of putting half-filled jugs of water out on the lawn to keep neighboring dogs away. This was big for a while in my old neighborhood, but it did absolutely nothing in my experiments with it. One of my dogs even took to lifting his leg on the jugs that were supposed to have driven him away.

The advice remains: If you can't limit your dog to using an out-of-sight place (either by training or by fencing), then be sure to dilute the urine promptly with water to minimize the lawn-damaging effect.

Budgie Facts

Q: I am thinking about adding a bird to my family and was thinking specifically about a budgie. What kind of investment will that entail? Are they messy? What kind of cage will I need? -- K.P., via e-mail

A: Budgies come in many colors and patterns, and two basic body types. The American style of budgie is slender and long compared to the husky, almost bulldog look of the English budgie. The personalities are the same, though.

Budgies are quite common and inexpensive compared to other parrots. Prices will vary and may start as low as $10, with rare colors on the higher side. It's worth paying more for a hand-raised bird, because taming an aviary-bred pet who has never been handled can be difficult.

All birds are messy, but a little budgie needs less cleaning up afterward than will a larger parrot.

Because they're so common, budgies are often dismissed as "just" a children's pet. But a friendly budgie can be a loving and entertaining pet for anyone regardless of age or bird-care experience.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET PLATES

Florida to issue newest pet plates

At the end of May, Florida becomes the most recent state to issue vehicle license plates that promote and support the control of pet overpopulation through spay-neuter efforts. The "Animal Friend" plates feature a colorful illustration of a cat and a dog playing on a beach. (More information is at www.floridaanimalfriend.com.)

More pet plates:

P.D., Brookings, S.D.: I have my own business called Paula -- The Pet Sitter, so I got special license plates. I love being with animals, so it's the purrfect job for me!

My job can be harder than you might think, though. I've had to take animals to the veterinarian in emergency situations because they've gotten sick while their owners were away, and I've had to call repairmen when clients' furnaces have malfunctioned.

I have eight indoor cats (Himalayan and Persian) and two dogs (terrier mix and a Sheltie). I provide a foster home for baby kittens for our local humane society. My husband and I have no children, so we completely spoil our critters. We take separate vacations, if we take time off at all, so our pets are not alone.

(Got a pet-related license plate? Send a jpeg image and the story behind it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

Pet Rx

Fleas may not be so easy to see

Just because you can't see fleas doesn't mean your dog doesn't have them. It takes only a few fleas to cause misery, and often, by the time people start noticing fleas, the animal already has a severe infestation.

Here's an easy way to figure out if fleas are the problem: Put your pet on a white or very light-colored sheet and run your fingers through her fur, going against the grain. Then look at the sheet. If you see what looks like flecks of pepper on the sheet, then your pet has fleas. Those little dots are flea excrement, which is made up of dried blood. (If you're really curious, add a drop of water to one of the flecks and it will turn red.)

If fleas are present, talk to your veterinarian about flea-control products. These products have a wide margin of safety for healthy pets and are effective against fleas. You can also keep flea levels down in your home by washing pet bedding regularly and vacuuming areas where pets hang out.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

The Scoop

Buyer beware: Sick bird will cost you

Most parrots are pretty expensive, with prices for healthy, well-socialized birds starting in the hundreds of dollars and heading up dramatically from there. With that kind of money at stake, it pays to be careful!

One of the best ways to find a good pet parrot prospect is to ask an avian veterinarian for a referral to a reputable breeder or bird shop. You should also be familiar with signs of good health in any bird you're considering. A healthy bird will:

-- Behave normally, perching without problems and moving with coordination, using the full body without favoring one side or the other. The bird should bear weight evenly, with all four toes present on each foot and in proper position -- two toes forward, two backward.

-- Be alert and responsive.

-- Breathe easily, with no sign of laboring and no tail-bobbing, which is another indicator of breathing problems.

-- Have eyes, ears and nostrils that are clean and free of debris and discharge.

-- Have healthy plumage. Feathers should have normal color and structure, showing no signs of excessive wear or horizontal lines indicating problems with feather development. There should be no sign of feather-picking, nor any broken feathers caused by improper housing or other damage.

-- Consistently produce droppings that are normal in appearance and have all three components: urine (liquid), feces (solids) and urates (white semi-solids). There should be no pasting of waste on the bird's fanny.

-- Have a well-muscled body that's not obese, with smooth, undamaged skin under the feathers.

A bird who's exhibiting even one or two of these general signs of illness needs prompt veterinary attention. Because birds showing any sign of illness are often very sick indeed, you may be taking on more than you bargain for if you buy such a bird. And you may end up paying for a bird who cannot be saved.

On the Web

Lots to learn on Persian site

With their long, silky coats and large, beautiful eyes, Persians remain among the most popular of all cat breeds. For those who love Persians, as well as anyone who's thinking of getting one, www.Persian-Cats.com is a must-stop spot on the Internet.

For someone just starting to research, there's information on the history of the breed, current variations in coat colors and patterns, health issues and how to find a reputable breeder. A search on nutrition turned up a piece by a woman who feeds her cat "pinkies" -- infant mice usually sold as snake food. "It's a complete meal," she notes.

Visitors to the Web site are required to register before they can have access to chat and bulletin-board areas. Registration is free and fast, and the chats can be lively. Finally, the site offers lots of wonderful pictures of these stunningly beautiful cats.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Emergency?

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | April 25th, 2005

Anyone who has ever pulled out a credit card at the emergency clinic for something that wasn't as dire as it seemed comes away wishing for a better knowledge of what constitutes an urgent situation -- and what doesn't. But as big an "ouch" as a non-emergency can be to the budget, it's a lot better than the opposite situation: an emergency that goes untreated until it's too late for your pet.

But how can you tell? The signs of a healthy pet are pretty apparent to an observant pet owner: bright, clear eyes with no sign of discharge; clean ears, free of buildup or smell; a mouth not overpowered by its odor, with pink gums free of infection; a nose that appears moist, with no discharge; a shiny coat, with unblemished skin below that snaps back easily when pulled away from the shoulders. A healthy attitude, with normal appetite and thirst are part of the package, too, without signs of intestinal upset. No lameness, no swelling. No lumps, no bumps. No heavy panting.

Anything to the contrary is reason to have a pet checked. But is it a "go to the veterinarian this very minute" emergency?

The first way to start finding out is with a thermometer. To take your pet's temperature, put a little water-based lubricant on the tip of the thermometer and insert it in the animal's fanny. After a minute or so, remove and check the temperature. Normal is between 100 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit for dogs and cats; anything below 99 or above 103 is worth checking with a veterinarian, day or night.

Some other "see the vet now" indicators include seizure, fainting or collapse, as well as any suspected poisoning (including antifreeze, rodent poison, snail bait or human medication). Snake or spider bites, too, demand immediate attention. Cats in particular can be fatally sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medications that are safe for dogs), petroleum-based products or medications such as Tylenol.

Sometimes situations that might not seem urgent really are, such as eye injuries or allergic reactions -- swelling around the face or hives. A single incident of vomiting or diarrhea is probably nothing, but anything more than two or three times within an hour or so could indicate a serious problem. Other signs of possible serious conditions are breathing problems, chronic coughing or difficulties urinating or defecating, the latter especially in cats.

Animals can sometimes seem fine after accidents, such as being hit by a car, exposed to extreme heat or cold, or being cut or bitten. Even if your pet looks OK, you need to take him to a veterinarian right away to check for internal injuries that can kill if left untreated.

There are also situations that may not be life-threatening but are certainly painful enough to warrant immediate veterinary attention. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy or restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding, or crying out. While it may be possible to wait until your regular veterinarian is available, put yourself in your pet's place. Don't let your pet suffer!

When in doubt, call your veterinarian. It's better to make a trip you needn't have made than to miss the one you should have made.

SIDEBAR

Prepare a first-aid kit

Every home with pets needs a first-aid kit just for animals.

The basics include: adhesive tape, antihistamines (such as Benadryl), antiseptic (such as Betadine), cotton (balls, swabs and rolls), tweezers, hydrogen peroxide, styptic powder (such as Kwik Stop), scissors, sterile gauze (pads and rolls), pet thermometer, antibiotic ointment, clear plastic cling wrap (such as Saran Wrap), activated charcoal, and a water-based lubricating jelly (such as K-Y). Add a soft fabric muzzle (for dogs) or a restraint bag (for cats), since an animal in pain may lash out.

If you don't want to put a kit together, buy a ready-made kit from pet-supply outlets, or directly from a manufacturer such as Pet Pak (www.petpak.com; 800-223-5765), which offers kits in three sizes in prices from $6 to $40.

Tuck into any kit your veterinarian's phone number, and the phone number of the closest after-hours clinic if your veterinarian isn't on call. Finally, add a book on first-aid: Amy Shojai's "The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" (Rodale Books, $20) is one of the best.

Q&A

'Alternative' care gains a following

Q: I saw your piece about acupuncture recently, and I'd like to know more about what "holistic" pet care entails. It seems like there are a lot of different techniques involved. Are these legit? -- W.G., via e-mail

A: Call it anything you like -- including "Eastern" or "holistic" -- "alternative" care is hot in human medicine and, not surprisingly, in veterinary medicine as well. Lumped under the term "alternative" is a wide range of treatment options, from acupuncture to chiropractic to homeopathy to herbal medicine.

In holistic medicine, the whole patient is generally the focus, rather than the specific disease. "Western" medicine does better with acute illness, such as a bacterial infection, or with trauma, such as a broken leg. Alternative medicine's strength is often in dealing with more chronic conditions, such as arthritis.

Some veterinarians originally trained in Western medicine have furthered their study and now practice alternative care exclusively. Many others accept elements of alternative care as a complement to Western medicine. For my own pets, especially the seniors, I have had good results over the last few years with this "integrative" approach -- mixing the best of Western practice with alternative care, primarily acupuncture.

As for legitimacy, some alternative treatments have been practiced for centuries, with good results. But I also see advertisements for "miracle cures" that seem to be little more than snake oil, taking advantage of a pet-lover's emotions. As always, work with your veterinarian (Western or alternative), ask what the benefits and risks are to any treatment, and do your own independent research to help you to make sound decisions on your pet's care.

The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (www.ahvma.org) is a good place to start finding out more about alternatives to Western-style medicine for pets.

No free-fly zone

Q: I have a friend whose wife told their son that birds don't need to be kept in their cages. She says it's OK for them to fly free around the house.

Isn't that unsafe for the birds? Isn't that unsanitary? Where can I get specific information about this? -- L.A., via e-mail

A: Flying free certainly can be unsafe for birds. Pet birds aren't born with the ability to recognize household hazards such as ceiling fans and pots of boiling water, nor are they very clear on the concept of windows, which may seem invisible to a free-flying bird. Not to mention: A bird with unclipped wings is at risk of flying out a door or window. Once outside, a bird may be impossible to recapture.

Unsanitary? Well, sure, a house with bird droppings all over it is certainly unappealing. Still, it's not that big a problem for anyone committed to cleaning up quickly with spray of cleaning solution and a wipe with a damp cloth.

There's another option to letting birds fly freely in the house: Keep their wings clipped for safety and offer them supervised out-of-cage recreation. While freedom isn't a good idea for finches and canaries, most parrots (and that includes everything from budgies and cockatiels to Amazons and macaws) need more than what even the largest cage can offer them.

Spending an entire life in a cage is just too sad and boring for these highly intelligent pets. Let them enjoy plenty of supervised out-of-cage time with toys, play gyms, trick-training or just hanging out with family members. Birds who are well-socialized and active are happier, healthier pets.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Chewable pet cards sure to be a hit

In the new products showcase at Global Pet Expo, I was looking at one new product with particular interest when I noticed I wasn't the only one so captivated. The folks who buy for pet-supply retailers were interested, too.

In an area in the massive trade show where most products were merely new takes on old ideas, the Crunchkins pet greeting cards really stood out. The dog cards are edible, made of thin rawhide and printed with safe food dyes. The cat cards are made to be played with and have catnip toys attached to the card face with non-toxic glue.

Invented by a veterinarian, the cards are brightly colored with sentiments that are cute but not too much. Examples: "Just Be-Paws I Love You," "Friends Fur-Ever." (OK, maybe some are little too cute.) The company has recently expanded with a collection of edible Christmas tree ornaments that are probably best hung away from the tree if you don't want your dog to dismantle your holiday display.

Suggested retail is $5 for the cards and $15 for the collection of ornaments. The Crunchkins line is available from gift and pet-supply stores.

On The Web

Fine fish facts in one location

No matter your level of interest and expertise, if you like fish, you'll like Fish Link Central (www.fishlinkcentral.com). This simple site offers information on all kinds of fish-keeping, from goldfish and guppies to the most elaborate saltwater reef systems and outdoor ponds.

Fish Link Central also features plenty of fish pictures, live chats and an ask-the-expert forum. Even if you're not that interested in setting up a tank of your own, you can have fun here, with fish-related computer games, such as fish concentration. Some of the quizzes seem to be especially geared to further the fish knowledge of school-age children.

You'll also find plenty of links to other fish sites, although some patience is needed to weed through the ones that don't work anymore. Keeping links current is no small measure for a Web site that tries to offer them all.

Pet tip

Regular brushing can tame spring shed

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, and that means hair everywhere.

The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, Samoyeds and malamutes. These breeds carry a protective overcoat of long hair as well as an insulating undercoat that's soft and fuzzy. These breeds lose masses of fur from both these coats in spring and fall, but the clumps that come out of the undercoat are especially noticeable.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as longhairs, but since the hair these dogs drop is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders -- even the heaviest -- can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on your furniture.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific advice in regard to the proper kind of grooming equipment. The slicker brush that works fine on a close-cropped poodle may not make much headway in the thick mane of a full-coated Alaskan malamute at the height of a seasonal shed.

Shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding. Ask your veterinarian for advice if your pet's coat condition seems too dull, or if you notice excessive hair loss.

THE SCOOP

Catnip cat toys near century mark

It's hard to imagine now, but there was a time when cats were kept mostly for the purpose of keeping mice in check. While no doubt there have always been a few people who loved cats for themselves and not for their usefulness, the love we have for cats today would astonish people from earlier centuries.

In a way, you can trace the development of the cat as pet to the interest cat owners have had in spending money to keep them amused. And that's a history that goes back little more than a century.

One of the earliest cat toys was invented by Dr. A.C. Daniels, who patented his Catnip Ball in 1907. The wooden ball was hollow for putting catnip in -- his own special brand, preferably. Daniels offered other toys such as a gray flannel mouse, and the company, founded in Boston in 1878, is still making cat toys today.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Letting Go

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | April 18th, 2005

It's the question every pet lover dreads, the one for which there's often no easy answer:

"When is the right time to say goodbye?"

Choosing to end a pet's life is the hardest decision we make when it comes to our pets, and I can tell you from three decades of personal experience that it's a decision that never gets any easier. Your veterinarian can offer you advice, and friends and family can offer you support, but no one can make the decision for you. When you live with an elderly or terminally ill pet, you look in your pet's eyes every morning and wonder if you're doing what's best.

Everyone makes the decision a little differently. Some pet lovers do not wait until their pet's discomfort becomes chronic, untreatable pain, and they choose euthanasia much sooner than others would. Some owners use an animal's appetite as the guide -- when an old or ill animal cannot be tempted into eating, they reason, he has lost most interest in life. And some owners wait until there's no doubt the time is at hand -- and later wonder if they delayed a bit too long.

There's no absolute rule, and every method for deciding is right for some pets and some owners at some times. You do the best you can, and then you try to put the decision behind you and deal with the grief.

The incredible advances in veterinary medicine in the past couple of decades have made the decisions even more difficult for many people. Not too long ago, the best you could do for a seriously ill pet was to make her comfortable until that wasn't possible any more. Nowadays, nearly every advantage of human medicine -- from chemotherapy to pacemakers to advanced pain-relief -- is available to our pets.

For me, the addition of high-level care doesn't change a thing: If I can have a realistic expectation that a course of treatment will improve my pet's life -- rather than simply prolong it -- then that's the direction I'll go. But I find I must constantly examine my motives and ask: Am I doing right by my pet, or am I just holding on because I can't bear to say goodbye?

If it's the latter, I know what decision I must make.

Many people are surprised at the powerful emotions that erupt after a pet's death, and they can be embarrassed by their grief. Often, we don't realize we're grieving not only for the pet we loved, but also for the special time the animal represented and the ties to other people in our lives. The death of a cat who was a gift as a kitten from a friend who has died, for example, may trigger bittersweet memories of another love lost.

Taking care of yourself is important when dealing with pet loss. Some people -- the "it's just a pet" crowd -- won't understand the loss and may shrug off grief over a pet's death as foolish. I find that the company of other animal lovers is very important. Seek them out to share your feelings, and don't be shy about getting professional help to get you through a difficult time.

I am always firm in my belief that choosing to end a pet's suffering is a final act of love and nothing less. Knowing that my decisions are guided by that love is what always carries me through the sad and lonely time of losing a cherished animal companion.

SIDEBAR

Help with pet loss

You're not alone in losing a pet, and many resources are out there to help you cope with your emotions during a difficult time. Here are places to go for help:

-- Pet-loss hotlines. Most veterinary schools offer pet-loss support lines staffed by volunteer veterinary students. The University of California, Davis, had the first, still taking calls from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Pacific Time, Monday through Friday; 800-565-1526. A list of other pet-loss hot lines can be found on the American Veterinary Medical Association's Web site at www.avma.org/careforanimals/animatedjourneys/goodbyefriend/plhotlines.asp.

-- Pet-loss chats: The Web site PetHobbyist.com offers a pet-loss chat every night of the year, staffed with volunteer moderators and attended by other pet lovers. Petloss.com is another online resource for information and help.

-- Memorials: Grave markers and garden plaques can be found advertised in the back of many pet-related magazines and on the Internet. The catalog company Orvis (www.orvis.com; 888-235-9763) offers a nice selection.

Q&A

Don't give up on a lost pet

Q: I read your piece on lost pets, and I hope you will remind people not to give up!

My dog was scared by fireworks last summer while we were camping in Arizona. He is my travel buddy and best friend. He was gone in the desert for eight days before another camper discovered him about 10 miles away. All the old-timers said there was no chance he could survive, and I had given up. There were coyotes making a kill nearby the night he ran off.

Remind people to put both cell phone and home phone numbers on the tags (and that the pet is microchipped, if applicable), to put up posters, and to make calls and visits to all the shelters. Make sure the animal is microchipped, as that is the first thing the shelters check when an animal is delivered. -- R.B., via e-mail

A: It's true that lost pets have been located months (or even years!) after they've gone missing, and often a great distance from their where they were lost. These kinds of stories turn up in the news regularly, and are usually the result of someone taking in a pet as their own and then losing the animal later.

The longer you look and the more extensive your search, the better the chance of finding your lost pet.

You are absolutely right, too, that steps you take before a pet is lost can increase your chances of getting the animal back. Collars with up-to-date phone numbers and implanted microchips can help reunite a lost pet with the animal's family. I never waste space putting an address on an ID tag. Instead, I put the word "Reward!" with as many different phone numbers as there's room for. There are many kind people in the world, but the hint of a reward will help to motivate those who really don't care if a pet gets home or gets dumped in a shelter.

And speaking of shelters: It's important to check and check again at shelters in as wide an area as you can. Since shelter populations are constantly changing, visit area shelters every couple of days. Phone calls often aren't much help, since busy staff might not recognize your pet from your description.

I'm glad you got your dog back!

No head halters

Q: I've heard that head halters can cause serious injuries if used wrongly. A too-abrupt tug could jerk a dog's head, causing neck or spinal injuries, couldn't it? -- A.K., via e-mail

A: Anything's possible, which is why I don't recommend using a head halter with one of those long, reel-type leashes. The force of a running dog hitting the end of a 30-foot line does have the potential to cause injury.

In truth, just about every piece of canine equipment has the potential for problems if used incorrectly. Slip-chain collars can choke a dog or injure his neck. Breakaway collars, designed to release a dog who's caught on something, can result in a dog being off-leash when it's least safe, such as next to a busy street. And head halters can jerk a dog's head around.

If you don't know what's right for your dog or how to use it, find a trainer who can help you choose the appropriate equipment and show you how it works. Every piece of training equipment is right for some dogs, but no single item is right for all. And no piece of training equipment is safe or effective unless it's fitted and used properly.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

New cat door fits in window

The sales representative who pounced on my interest in the Let Meow't cat door knew all the right things to say. The well-designed unit fits in a window like an air conditioner, and features a turn and a series of flaps that eliminates drafts as the cat goes in and out. Very clever!

But then, he offered a bit of information that didn't go over so well: "Once your cat learns to use it, you can ditch your litter box," he said.

Well, uh, no. Believe me, my reader mail reveals that our neighbors do not appreciate cat mess in their flowerbeds. Letting your cat roam puts him at risk not only from the crankiest of those neighbors, but also from such other hazards as cars, dogs or accidental poisoning. For every person who protested the recent Wisconsin cat-hunting proposal, there were those who thought it wasn't such a bad idea, even if they may have kept their thoughts to themselves.

The latter are the folks your cat may run into on his rambles, which is why I recommend keeping your cat safe on your property.

Still, there's no denying the Let Meow't is a pretty nifty product. It's perfect for use in providing access to a screened cat porch or other secure area. Suggested retail is $100 from pet-supply stores or catalogs. The unit can also be purchased at www.letmeowt.com. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Thyroid malady common in cats

When an older cat starts losing weight and gaining energy, the diagnosis is often hyperthyroidism, a common malady in which the thyroid starts overproducing. If thyroid production is not checked, cardiac and liver problems develop, and the cat dies.

Veterinary medicine offers three methods for treating hyperthyroidism.

Radioactive iodine therapy offers a cure rate of 90 percent to 95 percent, with no further treatment. The cat gets one dose of a radioactive substance that kills the overproducing cells without harming any other of the body's functions. The problem: The procedure is available only in large urban areas or at veterinary schools, and requires a two-week stay that some cats don't tolerate well.

The surgical removal of the offending parts of the thyroid gland is an option that usually doesn't require travel or an extended hospital stay. The problem: Some cats are not good candidates for this delicate surgery, and there's a chance that other problems may result after the surgery.

Finally, hyperthyroidism can be treated with medication. The problem: Some cats don't tolerate the medication well, and some owners aren't up to the task of administering daily doses for the duration of a pet's life. Because of this, medication is sometimes used short-term to get a pet to the point where he can better tolerate one of the other, more permanent treatment options.

If your senior cat has been diagnosed with hyperthyroidism, your veterinarian will discuss the options to help you make the best choice for you and your cat.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Pools can pose a problem for pets

Backyard pools present a drowning hazard to pets and wildlife alike, which makes pool safety important for animals as well as for people.

The best way to keep pets safe around a backyard pool is to fence off the pool from the rest of the yard and never leave animals unsupervised within the fenced pool area. Alarms that sound when a child or animal falls into the pool are also a worthwhile investment.

Not all dogs can handle the water. Many bulldog breeders and rescue groups will not place these dogs with families who have unfenced pools. The breed's front-heavy design makes swimming difficult, if not impossible, for these dogs (and similar kinds) who tire quickly and can drown easily.

Even dogs who love to swim can be at risk of drowning if left unsupervised, which is why it's a good idea to teach them how to find the pool steps just in case. You can do so by having one person help the dog in the water while another stands on the steps encouraging the animal to find and use the exit. Painted or taped stripes at animal eye-level may help orientate a pet toward the steps.

Because fences won't keep cats or wildlife from failing into the pool and because even the best intentions can't keep gates closed to dogs, it's a good idea to install an escape ramp such as the Skamper-Ramp. The ramp anchors to the side of the pool and is designed to attract drowning pets and wildlife to it.

Once on the ramp, the surface helps an animal crawl to safety. The Skamper-Ramp comes in two sizes and retails for around $40 (for animals up to 40 pounds) and $55 (for animals up to 90 pounds).

Currently available in pool-supply outlets, the Skamper-Ramp is now showing up in pet-supply stores and catalogs, and can also be purchased from the company's Web site. For more information: www.skamper-ramp.com or 877-766-5738.

PETS ON THE WEB

No need for war with wildlife

As we've grown out from the cities and developed more and more land for housing, it's no surprise that conflicts between humans and native wildlife are a big problem.

Conflicts can be kept to a minimum by blocking off attics, chimneys and crawl spaces to prevent wildlife from setting up housekeeping, and by keeping garbage cans and other food sources securely sealed.

The Humane Society of the United States has an excellent collection of articles on the group's Web site (www.hsus.org/wildlife/urban_wildlife_our_wild_neighbors) that offers more suggestions on living peacefully with urban wildlife. From coyotes to skunks to deer, the site provides information that will minimize the potential for nuisance. The site offers advice on products that can help discourage animals, along with case studies of non-lethal methods of dealing with conflicts.

The HSUS also offers tips on creating urban sanctuaries for animals and birds displaced by development.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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