Anyone who has ever pulled out a credit card at the emergency clinic for something that wasn't as dire as it seemed comes away wishing for a better knowledge of what constitutes an urgent situation -- and what doesn't. But as big an "ouch" as a non-emergency can be to the budget, it's a lot better than the opposite situation: an emergency that goes untreated until it's too late for your pet.

But how can you tell? The signs of a healthy pet are pretty apparent to an observant pet owner: bright, clear eyes with no sign of discharge; clean ears, free of buildup or smell; a mouth not overpowered by its odor, with pink gums free of infection; a nose that appears moist, with no discharge; a shiny coat, with unblemished skin below that snaps back easily when pulled away from the shoulders. A healthy attitude, with normal appetite and thirst are part of the package, too, without signs of intestinal upset. No lameness, no swelling. No lumps, no bumps. No heavy panting.

Anything to the contrary is reason to have a pet checked. But is it a "go to the veterinarian this very minute" emergency?

The first way to start finding out is with a thermometer. To take your pet's temperature, put a little water-based lubricant on the tip of the thermometer and insert it in the animal's fanny. After a minute or so, remove and check the temperature. Normal is between 100 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit for dogs and cats; anything below 99 or above 103 is worth checking with a veterinarian, day or night.

Some other "see the vet now" indicators include seizure, fainting or collapse, as well as any suspected poisoning (including antifreeze, rodent poison, snail bait or human medication). Snake or spider bites, too, demand immediate attention. Cats in particular can be fatally sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medications that are safe for dogs), petroleum-based products or medications such as Tylenol.

Sometimes situations that might not seem urgent really are, such as eye injuries or allergic reactions -- swelling around the face or hives. A single incident of vomiting or diarrhea is probably nothing, but anything more than two or three times within an hour or so could indicate a serious problem. Other signs of possible serious conditions are breathing problems, chronic coughing or difficulties urinating or defecating, the latter especially in cats.

Animals can sometimes seem fine after accidents, such as being hit by a car, exposed to extreme heat or cold, or being cut or bitten. Even if your pet looks OK, you need to take him to a veterinarian right away to check for internal injuries that can kill if left untreated.

There are also situations that may not be life-threatening but are certainly painful enough to warrant immediate veterinary attention. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy or restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding, or crying out. While it may be possible to wait until your regular veterinarian is available, put yourself in your pet's place. Don't let your pet suffer!

When in doubt, call your veterinarian. It's better to make a trip you needn't have made than to miss the one you should have made.

SIDEBAR

Prepare a first-aid kit

Every home with pets needs a first-aid kit just for animals.

The basics include: adhesive tape, antihistamines (such as Benadryl), antiseptic (such as Betadine), cotton (balls, swabs and rolls), tweezers, hydrogen peroxide, styptic powder (such as Kwik Stop), scissors, sterile gauze (pads and rolls), pet thermometer, antibiotic ointment, clear plastic cling wrap (such as Saran Wrap), activated charcoal, and a water-based lubricating jelly (such as K-Y). Add a soft fabric muzzle (for dogs) or a restraint bag (for cats), since an animal in pain may lash out.

If you don't want to put a kit together, buy a ready-made kit from pet-supply outlets, or directly from a manufacturer such as Pet Pak (www.petpak.com; 800-223-5765), which offers kits in three sizes in prices from $6 to $40.

Tuck into any kit your veterinarian's phone number, and the phone number of the closest after-hours clinic if your veterinarian isn't on call. Finally, add a book on first-aid: Amy Shojai's "The First Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats" (Rodale Books, $20) is one of the best.

Q&A

'Alternative' care gains a following

Q: I saw your piece about acupuncture recently, and I'd like to know more about what "holistic" pet care entails. It seems like there are a lot of different techniques involved. Are these legit? -- W.G., via e-mail

A: Call it anything you like -- including "Eastern" or "holistic" -- "alternative" care is hot in human medicine and, not surprisingly, in veterinary medicine as well. Lumped under the term "alternative" is a wide range of treatment options, from acupuncture to chiropractic to homeopathy to herbal medicine.

In holistic medicine, the whole patient is generally the focus, rather than the specific disease. "Western" medicine does better with acute illness, such as a bacterial infection, or with trauma, such as a broken leg. Alternative medicine's strength is often in dealing with more chronic conditions, such as arthritis.

Some veterinarians originally trained in Western medicine have furthered their study and now practice alternative care exclusively. Many others accept elements of alternative care as a complement to Western medicine. For my own pets, especially the seniors, I have had good results over the last few years with this "integrative" approach -- mixing the best of Western practice with alternative care, primarily acupuncture.

As for legitimacy, some alternative treatments have been practiced for centuries, with good results. But I also see advertisements for "miracle cures" that seem to be little more than snake oil, taking advantage of a pet-lover's emotions. As always, work with your veterinarian (Western or alternative), ask what the benefits and risks are to any treatment, and do your own independent research to help you to make sound decisions on your pet's care.

The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (www.ahvma.org) is a good place to start finding out more about alternatives to Western-style medicine for pets.

No free-fly zone

Q: I have a friend whose wife told their son that birds don't need to be kept in their cages. She says it's OK for them to fly free around the house.

Isn't that unsafe for the birds? Isn't that unsanitary? Where can I get specific information about this? -- L.A., via e-mail

A: Flying free certainly can be unsafe for birds. Pet birds aren't born with the ability to recognize household hazards such as ceiling fans and pots of boiling water, nor are they very clear on the concept of windows, which may seem invisible to a free-flying bird. Not to mention: A bird with unclipped wings is at risk of flying out a door or window. Once outside, a bird may be impossible to recapture.

Unsanitary? Well, sure, a house with bird droppings all over it is certainly unappealing. Still, it's not that big a problem for anyone committed to cleaning up quickly with spray of cleaning solution and a wipe with a damp cloth.

There's another option to letting birds fly freely in the house: Keep their wings clipped for safety and offer them supervised out-of-cage recreation. While freedom isn't a good idea for finches and canaries, most parrots (and that includes everything from budgies and cockatiels to Amazons and macaws) need more than what even the largest cage can offer them.

Spending an entire life in a cage is just too sad and boring for these highly intelligent pets. Let them enjoy plenty of supervised out-of-cage time with toys, play gyms, trick-training or just hanging out with family members. Birds who are well-socialized and active are happier, healthier pets.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Chewable pet cards sure to be a hit

In the new products showcase at Global Pet Expo, I was looking at one new product with particular interest when I noticed I wasn't the only one so captivated. The folks who buy for pet-supply retailers were interested, too.

In an area in the massive trade show where most products were merely new takes on old ideas, the Crunchkins pet greeting cards really stood out. The dog cards are edible, made of thin rawhide and printed with safe food dyes. The cat cards are made to be played with and have catnip toys attached to the card face with non-toxic glue.

Invented by a veterinarian, the cards are brightly colored with sentiments that are cute but not too much. Examples: "Just Be-Paws I Love You," "Friends Fur-Ever." (OK, maybe some are little too cute.) The company has recently expanded with a collection of edible Christmas tree ornaments that are probably best hung away from the tree if you don't want your dog to dismantle your holiday display.

Suggested retail is $5 for the cards and $15 for the collection of ornaments. The Crunchkins line is available from gift and pet-supply stores.

On The Web

Fine fish facts in one location

No matter your level of interest and expertise, if you like fish, you'll like Fish Link Central (www.fishlinkcentral.com). This simple site offers information on all kinds of fish-keeping, from goldfish and guppies to the most elaborate saltwater reef systems and outdoor ponds.

Fish Link Central also features plenty of fish pictures, live chats and an ask-the-expert forum. Even if you're not that interested in setting up a tank of your own, you can have fun here, with fish-related computer games, such as fish concentration. Some of the quizzes seem to be especially geared to further the fish knowledge of school-age children.

You'll also find plenty of links to other fish sites, although some patience is needed to weed through the ones that don't work anymore. Keeping links current is no small measure for a Web site that tries to offer them all.

Pet tip

Regular brushing can tame spring shed

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, and that means hair everywhere.

The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, Samoyeds and malamutes. These breeds carry a protective overcoat of long hair as well as an insulating undercoat that's soft and fuzzy. These breeds lose masses of fur from both these coats in spring and fall, but the clumps that come out of the undercoat are especially noticeable.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as longhairs, but since the hair these dogs drop is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders -- even the heaviest -- can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on your furniture.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific advice in regard to the proper kind of grooming equipment. The slicker brush that works fine on a close-cropped poodle may not make much headway in the thick mane of a full-coated Alaskan malamute at the height of a seasonal shed.

Shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding. Ask your veterinarian for advice if your pet's coat condition seems too dull, or if you notice excessive hair loss.

THE SCOOP

Catnip cat toys near century mark

It's hard to imagine now, but there was a time when cats were kept mostly for the purpose of keeping mice in check. While no doubt there have always been a few people who loved cats for themselves and not for their usefulness, the love we have for cats today would astonish people from earlier centuries.

In a way, you can trace the development of the cat as pet to the interest cat owners have had in spending money to keep them amused. And that's a history that goes back little more than a century.

One of the earliest cat toys was invented by Dr. A.C. Daniels, who patented his Catnip Ball in 1907. The wooden ball was hollow for putting catnip in -- his own special brand, preferably. Daniels offered other toys such as a gray flannel mouse, and the company, founded in Boston in 1878, is still making cat toys today.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It's the question every pet lover dreads, the one for which there's often no easy answer:

"When is the right time to say goodbye?"

Choosing to end a pet's life is the hardest decision we make when it comes to our pets, and I can tell you from three decades of personal experience that it's a decision that never gets any easier. Your veterinarian can offer you advice, and friends and family can offer you support, but no one can make the decision for you. When you live with an elderly or terminally ill pet, you look in your pet's eyes every morning and wonder if you're doing what's best.

Everyone makes the decision a little differently. Some pet lovers do not wait until their pet's discomfort becomes chronic, untreatable pain, and they choose euthanasia much sooner than others would. Some owners use an animal's appetite as the guide -- when an old or ill animal cannot be tempted into eating, they reason, he has lost most interest in life. And some owners wait until there's no doubt the time is at hand -- and later wonder if they delayed a bit too long.

There's no absolute rule, and every method for deciding is right for some pets and some owners at some times. You do the best you can, and then you try to put the decision behind you and deal with the grief.

The incredible advances in veterinary medicine in the past couple of decades have made the decisions even more difficult for many people. Not too long ago, the best you could do for a seriously ill pet was to make her comfortable until that wasn't possible any more. Nowadays, nearly every advantage of human medicine -- from chemotherapy to pacemakers to advanced pain-relief -- is available to our pets.

For me, the addition of high-level care doesn't change a thing: If I can have a realistic expectation that a course of treatment will improve my pet's life -- rather than simply prolong it -- then that's the direction I'll go. But I find I must constantly examine my motives and ask: Am I doing right by my pet, or am I just holding on because I can't bear to say goodbye?

If it's the latter, I know what decision I must make.

Many people are surprised at the powerful emotions that erupt after a pet's death, and they can be embarrassed by their grief. Often, we don't realize we're grieving not only for the pet we loved, but also for the special time the animal represented and the ties to other people in our lives. The death of a cat who was a gift as a kitten from a friend who has died, for example, may trigger bittersweet memories of another love lost.

Taking care of yourself is important when dealing with pet loss. Some people -- the "it's just a pet" crowd -- won't understand the loss and may shrug off grief over a pet's death as foolish. I find that the company of other animal lovers is very important. Seek them out to share your feelings, and don't be shy about getting professional help to get you through a difficult time.

I am always firm in my belief that choosing to end a pet's suffering is a final act of love and nothing less. Knowing that my decisions are guided by that love is what always carries me through the sad and lonely time of losing a cherished animal companion.

SIDEBAR

Help with pet loss

You're not alone in losing a pet, and many resources are out there to help you cope with your emotions during a difficult time. Here are places to go for help:

-- Pet-loss hotlines. Most veterinary schools offer pet-loss support lines staffed by volunteer veterinary students. The University of California, Davis, had the first, still taking calls from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Pacific Time, Monday through Friday; 800-565-1526. A list of other pet-loss hot lines can be found on the American Veterinary Medical Association's Web site at www.avma.org/careforanimals/animatedjourneys/goodbyefriend/plhotlines.asp.

-- Pet-loss chats: The Web site PetHobbyist.com offers a pet-loss chat every night of the year, staffed with volunteer moderators and attended by other pet lovers. Petloss.com is another online resource for information and help.

-- Memorials: Grave markers and garden plaques can be found advertised in the back of many pet-related magazines and on the Internet. The catalog company Orvis (www.orvis.com; 888-235-9763) offers a nice selection.

Q&A

Don't give up on a lost pet

Q: I read your piece on lost pets, and I hope you will remind people not to give up!

My dog was scared by fireworks last summer while we were camping in Arizona. He is my travel buddy and best friend. He was gone in the desert for eight days before another camper discovered him about 10 miles away. All the old-timers said there was no chance he could survive, and I had given up. There were coyotes making a kill nearby the night he ran off.

Remind people to put both cell phone and home phone numbers on the tags (and that the pet is microchipped, if applicable), to put up posters, and to make calls and visits to all the shelters. Make sure the animal is microchipped, as that is the first thing the shelters check when an animal is delivered. -- R.B., via e-mail

A: It's true that lost pets have been located months (or even years!) after they've gone missing, and often a great distance from their where they were lost. These kinds of stories turn up in the news regularly, and are usually the result of someone taking in a pet as their own and then losing the animal later.

The longer you look and the more extensive your search, the better the chance of finding your lost pet.

You are absolutely right, too, that steps you take before a pet is lost can increase your chances of getting the animal back. Collars with up-to-date phone numbers and implanted microchips can help reunite a lost pet with the animal's family. I never waste space putting an address on an ID tag. Instead, I put the word "Reward!" with as many different phone numbers as there's room for. There are many kind people in the world, but the hint of a reward will help to motivate those who really don't care if a pet gets home or gets dumped in a shelter.

And speaking of shelters: It's important to check and check again at shelters in as wide an area as you can. Since shelter populations are constantly changing, visit area shelters every couple of days. Phone calls often aren't much help, since busy staff might not recognize your pet from your description.

I'm glad you got your dog back!

No head halters

Q: I've heard that head halters can cause serious injuries if used wrongly. A too-abrupt tug could jerk a dog's head, causing neck or spinal injuries, couldn't it? -- A.K., via e-mail

A: Anything's possible, which is why I don't recommend using a head halter with one of those long, reel-type leashes. The force of a running dog hitting the end of a 30-foot line does have the potential to cause injury.

In truth, just about every piece of canine equipment has the potential for problems if used incorrectly. Slip-chain collars can choke a dog or injure his neck. Breakaway collars, designed to release a dog who's caught on something, can result in a dog being off-leash when it's least safe, such as next to a busy street. And head halters can jerk a dog's head around.

If you don't know what's right for your dog or how to use it, find a trainer who can help you choose the appropriate equipment and show you how it works. Every piece of training equipment is right for some dogs, but no single item is right for all. And no piece of training equipment is safe or effective unless it's fitted and used properly.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

New cat door fits in window

The sales representative who pounced on my interest in the Let Meow't cat door knew all the right things to say. The well-designed unit fits in a window like an air conditioner, and features a turn and a series of flaps that eliminates drafts as the cat goes in and out. Very clever!

But then, he offered a bit of information that didn't go over so well: "Once your cat learns to use it, you can ditch your litter box," he said.

Well, uh, no. Believe me, my reader mail reveals that our neighbors do not appreciate cat mess in their flowerbeds. Letting your cat roam puts him at risk not only from the crankiest of those neighbors, but also from such other hazards as cars, dogs or accidental poisoning. For every person who protested the recent Wisconsin cat-hunting proposal, there were those who thought it wasn't such a bad idea, even if they may have kept their thoughts to themselves.

The latter are the folks your cat may run into on his rambles, which is why I recommend keeping your cat safe on your property.

Still, there's no denying the Let Meow't is a pretty nifty product. It's perfect for use in providing access to a screened cat porch or other secure area. Suggested retail is $100 from pet-supply stores or catalogs. The unit can also be purchased at www.letmeowt.com. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Thyroid malady common in cats

When an older cat starts losing weight and gaining energy, the diagnosis is often hyperthyroidism, a common malady in which the thyroid starts overproducing. If thyroid production is not checked, cardiac and liver problems develop, and the cat dies.

Veterinary medicine offers three methods for treating hyperthyroidism.

Radioactive iodine therapy offers a cure rate of 90 percent to 95 percent, with no further treatment. The cat gets one dose of a radioactive substance that kills the overproducing cells without harming any other of the body's functions. The problem: The procedure is available only in large urban areas or at veterinary schools, and requires a two-week stay that some cats don't tolerate well.

The surgical removal of the offending parts of the thyroid gland is an option that usually doesn't require travel or an extended hospital stay. The problem: Some cats are not good candidates for this delicate surgery, and there's a chance that other problems may result after the surgery.

Finally, hyperthyroidism can be treated with medication. The problem: Some cats don't tolerate the medication well, and some owners aren't up to the task of administering daily doses for the duration of a pet's life. Because of this, medication is sometimes used short-term to get a pet to the point where he can better tolerate one of the other, more permanent treatment options.

If your senior cat has been diagnosed with hyperthyroidism, your veterinarian will discuss the options to help you make the best choice for you and your cat.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Pools can pose a problem for pets

Backyard pools present a drowning hazard to pets and wildlife alike, which makes pool safety important for animals as well as for people.

The best way to keep pets safe around a backyard pool is to fence off the pool from the rest of the yard and never leave animals unsupervised within the fenced pool area. Alarms that sound when a child or animal falls into the pool are also a worthwhile investment.

Not all dogs can handle the water. Many bulldog breeders and rescue groups will not place these dogs with families who have unfenced pools. The breed's front-heavy design makes swimming difficult, if not impossible, for these dogs (and similar kinds) who tire quickly and can drown easily.

Even dogs who love to swim can be at risk of drowning if left unsupervised, which is why it's a good idea to teach them how to find the pool steps just in case. You can do so by having one person help the dog in the water while another stands on the steps encouraging the animal to find and use the exit. Painted or taped stripes at animal eye-level may help orientate a pet toward the steps.

Because fences won't keep cats or wildlife from failing into the pool and because even the best intentions can't keep gates closed to dogs, it's a good idea to install an escape ramp such as the Skamper-Ramp. The ramp anchors to the side of the pool and is designed to attract drowning pets and wildlife to it.

Once on the ramp, the surface helps an animal crawl to safety. The Skamper-Ramp comes in two sizes and retails for around $40 (for animals up to 40 pounds) and $55 (for animals up to 90 pounds).

Currently available in pool-supply outlets, the Skamper-Ramp is now showing up in pet-supply stores and catalogs, and can also be purchased from the company's Web site. For more information: www.skamper-ramp.com or 877-766-5738.

PETS ON THE WEB

No need for war with wildlife

As we've grown out from the cities and developed more and more land for housing, it's no surprise that conflicts between humans and native wildlife are a big problem.

Conflicts can be kept to a minimum by blocking off attics, chimneys and crawl spaces to prevent wildlife from setting up housekeeping, and by keeping garbage cans and other food sources securely sealed.

The Humane Society of the United States has an excellent collection of articles on the group's Web site (www.hsus.org/wildlife/urban_wildlife_our_wild_neighbors) that offers more suggestions on living peacefully with urban wildlife. From coyotes to skunks to deer, the site provides information that will minimize the potential for nuisance. The site offers advice on products that can help discourage animals, along with case studies of non-lethal methods of dealing with conflicts.

The HSUS also offers tips on creating urban sanctuaries for animals and birds displaced by development.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you could do one thing that would improve not only your dog's health but also your own, you'd do it, wouldn't you?

If your answer is "yes," then it's time to start walking your dog.

A lot of dog lovers have no choice but to walk the dog. They live in apartments and have to take their dogs out two or three times a day because there's no door to open to even the smallest of back yards.

But for the rest of us, taking a dog out is something we don't have to do, so a lot of us don't. And that's a shame.

Recent studies have shown that our pets are having as much trouble with obesity as we are, and the reasons are the same: too much food and not enough exercise. Many dog breeds were developed with hard work in mind -- herding sheep, retrieving birds, pulling sleds -- but today's descendants of these hard-driving dogs spend their days getting most of their exercise waddling to the food dish.

Our dogs deserve better, and so do we. Want more convincing? Here you go:

-- Walking is good exercise for any age or type of dog. Unlike other forms of exercise where a dog could get injured or overheated (especially if unfit, aged or obese), a walking program is a low-impact alternative that can start modestly when it comes to pace and distance.

-- Walking can help take weight off you and your dog -- and keep it off. A recent study conducted at Northwestern Memorial Hospital in Chicago showed that people who started a walking program with their dog were more likely to stick with it. Think of it as having an exercise buddy who will never bail on you and will always be happy to go along.

-- Daily exercise helps to alleviate the boredom and nervous energy behind many canine behavior problems. Veterinary behaviorists have long recommended increased exercise as part of any plan to overcome problems such as nuisance barking or destructive chewing. A tired dog is more likely to be a good dog.

-- Walking is a good way to socialize, for both humans and dogs. Dogs are a great conversation-starter, a way for even shy people to break the ice. Organizations that train service dogs learned long ago that having a dog at one's side is a way out of the isolation so many of us feel.

So what are you waiting for? Spring is the perfect time to get started, and there's no special equipment to buy or health club dues to pay. No reason to procrastinate.

Grab a leash, whistle up your dog, and hit the road. You'll both be healthier and happier for it.

SIDEBAR

Good gear for walking

Recent innovations offer alternatives to putting a choke collar on your dog. Instead of having your gasping dog drag you down the street, try either a head halter or one of the new front-snap harnesses. Both offer increased control over even strong dogs without making the animal uncomfortable.

A leash that feels comfortable in your hands is a must. So choose one made of fabric or leather (no chain leashes) in either 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch widths, and in a 6-foot length for good control. If you use a reel-type lead, don't combine it with a head halter (it's not safe), and do use a safety loop to keep the handle from popping out of your control.

For walking in anything other than broad daylight, use some sort of reflective product -- either vests for you or your dog, or a reflective leash.

Finally, be sure to carry bags for cleaning up after your dog. Many pet-supply companies sell such products, but I've always used free plastic grocery bags for the job.

Q&A

No magic pill to fix urine burns on lawn

Q: My dog's urine is destroying my lawn. Last year, I tried a product I bought from a pet catalog that is for this specific problem, but it hasn't worked well enough to justify buying more of it. There must be something I can add to her food or water to prevent this problem. What's the secret? -- J.J., via e-mail

A: I used to joke with the garden editor of The Sacramento Bee newspaper that if he and I could only come up with the miracle cure for lawn burns, we could retire wealthy.

No such luck.

Over the years I've heard of all kinds of supplements to fix this problem, from tomato juice to garlic to salt to vitamin C, along with all kinds of commercial products. I haven't seen good evidence that any of them work all that well. Furthermore, some additions to your dog's food or water can increase the risk of illness for your pet, and that's never worth a greener lawn, in my opinion. I only put things in my pets' mouths that are good specifically for them and them alone.

Probably the best solution to lawn burn is to set aside a part of your yard for your dog's potty needs, and train or restrict her to use this area exclusively. Replace the lawn in this area with decomposed granite, pea gravel or other kill-proof cover that will present a nice appearance and offer easy cleanup.

If it's not possible to split off part of the yard for your dog's potty area, then this will help: After your dog squats on your lawn, take the hose and flush the area with lots and lots of water to dilute the urine to non-damaging levels. You need to do this fairly soon after your dog urinates. You cannot rely on every-other-day water from the sprinklers to help much in this regard.

Years ago, a dog-loving friend of mine with an exceptionally lovely yard came up with a solution that takes some effort but worked well for her. She kept a fresh roll of sod growing in an out-of-the-way corner of her yard, and when a spot on the lawn turned started to turn yellow, she'd cut it out and replace it with fresh sod. The maintenance was constant, but so was the green of her yard.

Snail bait

Q: With warmer weather finally arriving, will you remind people that snail bait is deadlier to more creatures than just snails? I hate to think of pets being poisoned. -- L.D., via e-mail

A: Like most gardeners, "hate" isn't all that strong a word to use when it comes to how I feel about snails. But I never, ever use snail bait, because it's deadly not just to snails and slugs but also to dogs, cats and birds.

Instead, I conduct "snail safaris" with a flashlight, picking up snails by the shell and putting them in a bag that I then place in the garbage bin. Another alternative to traditional snail bait is iron phosphate, which is marketed under the brand name Sluggo.

Any pet suspected of having gotten into snail bait -- symptoms include frothing at the mouth, vomiting and convulsions -- needs to see a veterinarian immediately. The animal's life depends on prompt action.

All garden pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers need to be used with extreme caution around pets. Use as little as possible and follow directions to the letter.

Better still: Avoid using such products at all around pets if there's an alternative that will get the job done.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

A neater way to buy life food for reptiles

Build a better bug box, and the world will beat a path to your door.

At least, that's the hope of Gordon Vadis, a self-described "cricketeer" who has come up with a way to make the handling of live food for reptiles easier for customers and pet stores alike.

Vadis took over a family business that produced bait for fishermen, but he soon realized that unlike the bait business, providing feeder insects to pet stores wasn't seasonal. In 2000 he sold the bait business to focus solely on the pet trade with The Bug Company (www.ebugco.com).

"More than 80 percent of cricket sales are to mothers whose kids have pet reptiles," says Vadis. "And they don't want to be driving home with a plastic bag full of bugs."

To make things neater and to spare pet-store staff the time it takes to fish crickets out of a tank, Vadis came up with a self-contained biosphere box that contains healthy crickets and enough food to keep them that way for the time it takes them to get from his Minnesota bug farm to a reptile's stomach. All a customer has to do is grab a box from a display and head for the register.

Punch-out holes in the package mean no cricket-handling for the squeamish. The 25-cricket Bug Box has a suggested retail price of $2.49, the 50-cricket box for $4.49.

THE SCOOP

Proper handling keeps parrots tame

Altitude has a lot to do with attitude, at least when it comes to parrots. In the wild, dominant members of a flock choose the highest branches on which to rest, with the lower-ranking birds settling on perches below. Pet parrots who see themselves as dominant to their owners can often be retrained just by getting their height adjusted.

The rule is known among behaviorists as "your head, my heart" and requires you to keep your bird's head no higher than your heart. That means canceling shoulder rides in favor of letting your bird perch on your waist-level arm or hand. It also means removing cage-top play gyms and lowering the height of the cage itself by removing the stand on which most models rest.

When your bird no longer looks down on you physically, he won't be as likely to look down on you socially. You'll then be in a better position to train him in the basics of well-mannered behavior.

PET RX

Pick plants with an eye to pet safety

The Animal Poison Control Center has come out with a list of five plants with the most potential to cause illness or death to pets. Check your plants against this list, and make sure your pets do not have access to them.

Better still, don't keep these plants in your home or yard:

-- Lilies. The APCC says lilies are at the top of the list for calls regarding plant toxicity. Pretty they may be, but lilies are highly toxic to cats. Even a small amount can damage an animal's kidneys, and some cats who eat these plants die of kidney failure.

-- Azaleas. The bright colors of azaleas are one of the signs that spring is finally here, a welcome antidote to months of gray weather. But according to the APCC, azaleas can produce vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness and central nervous system depression. Severe cases could lead to death from cardiovascular collapse.

-- Oleander. Hardy oleanders are another easy-care landscaping favorite. But oleanders contain toxic components that can cause irritation of the gastrointestinal tract, hypothermia and potentially severe cardiac problems.

-- Sago palms. This plant may trigger vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures, liver failure and death.

-- Castor bean. Although all parts of this plant are dangerous, the APCC warns that the seeds contain the highest concentration of toxins. Ingestion can produce significant abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea and weakness. In severe cases, dehydration, tremors, seizures and death could result.

For more information on poison risks to pets, visit the Animal Poison Control Center on the Web site of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (www.aspca.org). Veterinary Partner (www.veterinarypartner.com) also has information on choosing pet-safe plants on its Web site.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Plenty of help for ferret fans

There's a reason for the growing popularity of ferrets: They're small, affectionate and playful pets who keep their owners smiling. As with any pet, though, the key to successful ferret-keeping is making sure you're the right fit for a pet ferret, and then providing what your ferret needs to thrive.

Ferret Central (www.ferretcentral.org) has the answer to any questions you could possibly have about ferrets -– and in several languages, to boot! The site is clean, information-packed and easy to navigate, with tons of links to explore.

California has thousands of ferrets, even though they're illegal in the state. But ferret fans there are nothing if not persistent. After failing again in their quest for legalization -- the last time with a veto by Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger, who once had a ferret co-star in one of his movies -- ferret forces are back with a bill they hope will finally pass. Details are on the Ferrets Anonymous Web site (www.ferretsanonymous.com).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600