Anyone who has yet to be convinced that Americans are crazy about their pets would see things differently after a couple of hours at Global Pet Expo.

The pet-industry trade show, held last month in Orlando, Fla., attracted vendors from massive corporations to individual inventors, all working to catch the eyes of buyers looking to put the hottest new products in their stores. The convention center floor was packed with more than 2,000 booths and marked the launch of some 600 new pet products.

Plenty of traditional pet products where on display as well, although many of these have had makeovers. It's amazing the variety possible in product as simple in concept as a dog leash or a cat bed. But if there is a way to update such gear, it was shown off here. The most popular modifications to leashes, collars and dog toys were those that made them light up or flicker, and these were so common as to be ho-hum by the time one walked the length of the display hall.

Among the show trends:

-- Togs for small dogs. Pet-supply manufacturers are clearly hoping the craze for small dogs has staying power, judging by the number of booths showing clothing, hats, jewelry or other accessories for dogs who themselves seem at times to have been purchased as fashion statements.

Everything from wedding apparel (white dresses for first-time doggy brides, of course, and tuxedos for grooms) to pink leather biker jackets and sports-team jumpers was on display. Hats, too, including black baseball-style hats with "FBI" on them and traditional white sailor hats. Rhinestone jewelry for little dogs? Why not? After all, how fashionable could a plain old ID tag be?

And what good is a well-dressed dog who never goes anywhere? The simple pet carrier has gone up-market, too, with several manufacturers offering a wide range of styles, colors and patterns, and others pushing dog strollers as nice as any human baby could want.

-- Litter boxes and accessories. We want the cat to use the litter box, we don't want to see it or smell it, and we want it to clean itself. That seems to be the message from the inventors and companies trying to improve on the time-tested basic litter box.

Two manufacturers offered their versions of self-cleaning electronic litter boxes, while other companies looked for buyers of litter box hiding spots. Some of the latter were disguised as cabinets, while the most clever hid the box in the bottom of a planter, complete with plant on top.

Getting rid of what gets scooped was another source of innovation, with companies offering products in which clumps of dirtied litter could be dropped in and sealed for later disposal. No mess, no smell.

-- Gear for small pets. A cramped cage in a corner of a children's bedroom or a hutch in the back yard used to be about the best many small pets could expect, but things are changing. The popularity of animals such as ferrets and rabbits as indoor pets for adults was obvious in displays of bigger, multilevel cages and racks of toys designed specifically to keep these animals from being bored.

-- Brand names. Pets may not be interested in brand names, but it's clear the sellers of pet products are hoping pet lovers are. One of the biggest displays at the show was Jeep's, promoting a line of rugged-looking gear for dogs. Other companies were offering items with brand names such as Harley-Davidson, the American Kennel Club, Barbie and even cartoon characters such as Scooby-Doo.

All these products will be showing up in pet-supply stores and catalogs before long, and everyone at Global Pet Expo is betting on each item being a hit with consumers.

Only time will tell.

Q&A

Parrots don't take to pills

Q: This may seem like a stupid question, but I'll ask it anyway. How does one "pill" a parrot? -- F.W., via e-mail

A: You don't "pill" a parrot. Here's a rundown of the options when it comes to medicating a bird:

-- Adding water-soluble medications to drinking water. Adding medication to water is easiest, but it has its drawbacks. There's little control over dosage because you can't count on a bird to drink any set amount of water. Some species drink little water at all, and other birds may not feel up to drinking when they're ill.

-- Offering medicated feeds. This has the same pros and cons as medicated water. It's easy to offer medicated feed, but there's no way of making sure any of it gets inside the bird. And some medicated feeds apparently taste awful, so even if a bird feels like eating, he may not touch food with medicine in it.

-- Using a syringe or eyedropper. Accuracy of dosage is a benefit of giving medication orally -- assuming it's possible to get the stuff in him instead of dribbling it everywhere but down his throat. The appropriate amount can go in an eyedropper or a syringe with the needle removed, and can be given by sliding the tip into the side of your bird's mouth.

The downside: A bird isn't likely to sit still for this procedure, and he'll have to be restrained by being wrapped in a towel. Once restrained, a bird who was hand-fed as a baby will usually go along -- the sight of a plastic tip nearing his mouth will usually get him to open up.

-- Giving an injection. High marks for accuracy, and once the owner is used to injecting the bird, high marks for ease as well. As with oral medications, though, a bird will likely need to be restrained with a towel to get his medication. Some people get really good at injecting their bird, even after initial reluctance.

When a bird needs medication, either short-term or for life, it's essential that the bird's caregiver and the veterinarian are on the same page when it comes to how to administer medication. The person who'll be giving the medication needs to ask lots of questions, to watch while the veterinarian demonstrates, to practice while at the clinic, and to speak up if there's a question or problem.

One final thing to remember about medications: Keep on giving them even if a bird seems to feel better. Or at least, don't stop early unless your veterinarian says it's OK.

True Grit

Q: How much grit does my cockatiel need? Should I just let her have all she wants? -- P.R., via e-mail

A: Some pet birds, such as finches and canaries, can make use of an occasional small amount of grit, but most budgies, cockatiels and other parrots don't need grit at all.

It's still commonly believed that grit helps in the grinding organ of the gizzard, assisting in the breakdown of foods. But birds do fine without grit, and the material has been shown to remove vitamins A, K and B2 from the digestive system.

A tiny -- as in a couple of grains of grit every couple of months -- is fine for finches and canaries, keeping in mind that no pet bird needs to have access to all the grit he or she wants.

For parrots large and small, though, skip grit entirely. Overconsumption of grit can lead to life-threatening problems in pet parrots, especially young birds and smaller species, such as budgies or cockatiels.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

No meat for iguanas

An iguana may look like a carnivorous dinosaur, but when it comes to diet, the reptiles could not be more different.

Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay and squash.

Chop the vegetables into a size that can be easily handled by the pet -- smaller pieces for smaller iggies -- and mix and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day and sprinkle the food with a calcium supplement, available at a pet store. This diet can be supplemented by commercial foods.

And don't forget water! Iguanas should always have water available not only for drinking but also for getting wet. A ceramic dish in the enclosure is a must, and spraying mist on the pet regularly is also a good idea.

PET RX

Bite-wound abscesses require prompt attention

Spring means breeding season for free-roaming cats, which also means cat fights -- and bite-wound abscesses. Prompt veterinary attention is called for with these nasty infections.

The veterinarian will need to lance an abscess that has not ruptured and flush the area clean of debris. Depending on the size of the abscess and the temperament of the cat, sedation may need to be part of this procedure.

An abscess that has been left untreated may have enough dead tissue to require a more involved procedure under anesthesia. The surgery may require cutting away the dead tissue, inserting a drain and stitching up the wound.

At-home care following the stay at the veterinarian's may involve flushing the wound and will almost certainly require giving your cat antibiotics. Warm compresses applied for five to 10 minutes twice a day may also be recommended to help speed up the healing process. Follow your veterinarian's advice.

The best way to prevent your cat from getting a bite-wound abscess is to neuter him and keep him as an indoor pet.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

BREED TYPE

Chihuahua a little dog with a big attitude

The first thing you'll notice about the Chihuahua is that he's small. The second thing you'll notice is that he has absolutely no idea about the first thing.

Described as everything from "saucy" to "courageous," the Chihuahua is one of the 10 most popular dogs in America, and the second most popular toy dog.

The breed originated in Mexico, stands only 6 to 9 inches at the shoulder and weighs in at under 6 pounds -- sometimes as little as 1 pound. Despite their confident temperament, their tiny size makes them inappropriate for homes with boisterous children or playful larger dogs.

They are, however, perfect lap dogs and devoted companions, and make excellent apartment dwellers. They can easily be trained to use a litter box or small patio to relieve themselves. They come in two coat lengths, short and long. The longhaired Chihuahua does require regular brushing to prevent mats, but by and large they are easy to groom and care for.

Chihuahuas are notoriously jealous and will want all your love and attention, all the time. While they are active and entertaining dogs, they do not require large amounts of exercise. Dainty and delicate, they will need to wear a coat when weather is cold and cannot live outdoors under any circumstances.

There are a few things to be aware of when seeking a Chihuahua. Since a badly bred or unsocialized Chihuahua can be aggressive or impossible to housetrain, be sure you get your Chihuahua from an ethical breeder who is a member of the Chihuahua Club of America, or from a reputable Chihuahua rescue organization.

Chihuahuas are mostly healthy dogs, but the smallest ones tend to have more health issues than the larger dogs, and any Chihuahua can have heart, knee, eye, dental or other breed-related health problems. -- Christie Keith, www.pethobbyist.com

PETS ON THE WEB

Miniature horses roam the Internet

Most people don't consider a horse to fit into the category of "pet." The exception might be the miniature horse, some of which aren't that much bigger than a large dog.

Originally developed to work in mines and other tight confines, miniature horses can be used to pull carts and serve as backpacking companions. Any even if you don't intend to do anything more than just let them hang out on your property, they can be charming to have around.

The American Miniature Horse Association's Web site (www.amha.com) offers information on these distinctive horses, as does the Web site of the Small Horse Press (www.smallhorse.com). The AMHA site shows the versatility of these little guys, while the Small Horse Press site offers hundreds of links to miniature horse associations and breeders.

For folks with room and zoning approval, a miniature horse can be a wonderful pet indeed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the biggest mistakes people make when pets go missing is underestimating the seriousness of the situation. When a pet gets out, the response should never be "wait and see."

"Your pet is about as capable of surviving on his own as a toddler is," says Liz Blackman, founder of 1-800-HELP-4-PETS (www.help4pets.com), a company that helps reunite lost pets with their owners. "The first thing people need to know when they lose a pet is that they need to act quickly and aggressively."

First on the "to do" list: a lost-pet sign.

"You don't need to describe your pet from nose to tail," says Blackman. "If you've lost a large black dog, start with that. Make sure the sign can be easily read from a distance. Include your phone number and area code. And put the word 'reward' in big, clear letters. Money can motivate a lot of people who might not care much otherwise."

To motivate others, Blackman suggests a measure of "sappiness."

"You need to get people emotionally involved," she says. "Tell them how you feel, how much you care. Put 'child is heartbroken' or 'my best friend is missing.' I know of total strangers who have taken off from work to help look for a missing pet because they were motivated by a sign."

Blackman says it's important to print enough signs and display them in the most effective way possible. Don't put them on wooden poles -- they increase risk of injury to utility line crews -– but do put them everywhere else they can be easily seen.

"Print a minimum of 100 and put half facing the street where drivers can see them, half facing the sidewalk so pedestrians can," she says. Also, put signs in places where pet people go: veterinary offices, dog parks, pet-supply stores and groomers. You'll also need to place a lost-pet ad in local newspapers and on lost-pet Web sites.

Because you'll be out looking for your pet, Blackman also suggests changing the message on your answering machine or voicemail to encourage people to leave a message.

"You don't want the finder to get frustrated, not knowing how long you'll take to call back," she says. Her suggestion: "If you're calling about my missing pet, I'm out looking for him right now. Please leave a message, and I'll call you as soon as I come in."

Enlist the help of friends, family and neighbors in the search, and go door-to-door in your area. Ask neighbors to check garages, tool sheds and crawl spaces. Cats often slip into such spaces unnoticed and are trapped when doors are shut behind them, says Blackman.

You'll need to visit every shelter in your area and look through the cages and runs yourself. Shelter workers are busy, and they might not remember seeing your pet or recognize him from your verbal description. Ask to see the pets in the infirmary as well as in the general runs, since your pet might have been injured.

While you're at the shelters, ask to check the listings of animals who didn't make it, such as those hit by cars. Hard as it is to know a pet was killed, it's often harder to never know what happened.

Just as you shouldn't delay in trying to find your pet, you shouldn't give up too easily. Keep looking for at least a month.

"People may tell you you're nuts to keep looking," says Blackman. "Make sure your signs stay posted and keep visiting the shelters."

SIDEBAR

Keep your pet from getting lost

The sad fact is that many lost pets are never reunited with their families, which makes prevention an essential part of protecting your pet.

-- Cats: Free-roaming cats are always at high-risk for disappearing. A collar and tag may help a cat find the way home, but the best advice is to always keep your cat inside.

-- Dogs: Again, collars and tags will help if the animal gets out, but keeping a pet from roaming is even more important. Check fences for loose boards or the beginnings of hole-digging, and keep gates locked.

Q&A

Dog skunked? Here's the cure

Q: You once wrote about how to get rid of skunk smell. I thought I'd saved it, but I couldn't find it last week when our Lab got hit. We tried tomato juice, which my husband had heard worked well, and we ended up with a reddish-yellow dog who still smelled pretty bad. Would you please share the recipe again? We sure need it! -- S.L., via e-mail

A: Over the years, I have come to believe that spring is finally here when I get my first letter on what to do when a dog gets skunked.

As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. I like to give the man credit when I share his discovery, because there's no way he'll ever make any money for saving the noses of countless grateful pet lovers.

Why not? It's because the ingredients are cheap and can be found in any grocery store, and they cannot be mixed in advance because the container you seal them in will explode from the pressure of the chemical reaction. So you'll never find a bottle of "Dr. Krebaum's Miracle Skunk-B-Gone" on the shelf in your nearest pet-supply store.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog like your Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, you don't want to take the time to run to the store when you have a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now and keep them on hand. But remember -- don't mix until seconds before application.

Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time.

Bird Diet

Q: I know this is weird, but my cockatiel loves to share food from my meals, especially Kentucky Fried Chicken. This strikes me as kind of sick, a bird eating a bird. Shouldn't she know better? -- W.I., via e-mail

A: Sharing "people food" is one of the best things you can do for your bird, as long as your diet isn't full of lots of junk. Fresh fruits and veggies are great for you both, along with such foods as pasta and rice, cottage cheese, and lean meats such as chicken. (I'd substitute lower-fat preparations for breaded and deep-fried, though.)

The staple you should always be feeding your parrot -- and yes, a cockatiel is a parrot, as is a budgie or parakeet -- is one of the many pelleted diets that are on the market. These are designed to cover the basics in terms of nutrition. But don't stop with pellets. Bring variety into your bird's diet by offering any healthy food you can think of -- the more choices, the better.

Give special consideration to foods that also fight boredom and provide exercise, such as nuts in the shell and corn on the cob.

Do keep your food and your bird's food separate, though. While I like the idea of sharing, it's better that you give your bird her own plate rather than let her pick off yours.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

New harnesses help with control

It used to be that the only way to walk an unruly dog was with a choke collar, and that didn't work very well. A choke collar is difficult to put on right, hard to use properly, and cruel if constantly tight around a dog's neck.

The first product to offer a good alternative to the choke collar was the head harness, developed by a veterinary behaviorist and sold under the Gentle Leader brand. For some dogs, though, a head halter wasn't a good option: They hated the product and were miserable with it on.

The buzz in dog-training circles these days is about front-clip body harnesses. I wrote about the Sense-sation and Hightower versions earlier this year, and now the folks behind the Gentle Leader have brought out their own: the Easy Walk (suggested retail: $25).

Unlike traditional chest harnesses that actually encourage pulling, the front-clip models use a dog's own forward momentum to change unwanted behavior. They're receiving rave reviews from trainers and owners alike.

PET Rx

What to do about a cat's runny nose

Many cats catch what seem to be "colds" sometime during their lives, and most of these afflictions are caused by viruses. Cats with upper respiratory infections are lethargic, have fevers, runny eyes and noses, and they sneeze and often do not want to eat or drink.

A trip to the veterinarian's is a good idea, but call ahead: These viruses are highly contagious, and your veterinarian will likely not want you and your cat sitting in the waiting room with other pets.

As with a cold in humans, so long as the fever is not too high (normal is 100 degrees to 102.5 degrees) and your cat continues to eat and drink, hospitalization can usually be avoided. Keeping your cat's eyes and nostrils free of "crust" by washing gently with a warm, moist cloth will help keep his appetite up. (Cats like to be able to smell their food.)

If your cat stops eating and, especially, drinking, dehydration is a danger and hospitalization may be needed. Since upper respiratory infections can be complicated by bacteria, antibiotics are often prescribed as well.

With appropriate care, most cats fully recover in a few days to a week; however, some cases can persist for more than two weeks. If your cat has repeated bouts of upper respiratory infections, your veterinarian may want to test for diseases that weaken the immune system.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET BOOK

Trick-training builds a bond with your dog

Trick-training isn't like regular canine obedience: The point is to have fun with your dog, spend time together and strengthen the bond between you.

Not to mention, it's also fun to show off what you've both accomplished afterward.

"The Only Dog Tricks Book You'll Ever Need" by Gerilyn Bielakiewicz (Adams, $8) is one of the best entries into the trick-training book category. Not only does it offer how-to instructions on dozens of tricks, but it also explains how dogs learn in a style that's both accurate and interesting.

You can take this neat little book and end up with better dog and a better understanding of how to train any dog. And following the directions won't feel like work to either you or your dog.

I love trick-training, and I especially like encouraging kids to teach their own dogs a thing or two. The obvious pride a child takes in showing off tricks taught to a pet is a wonderful thing to see!

My own favorite dog trick is one that developed as a game with one of my dogs. My older retriever, Ben, loves to bring me his stuffed toys, one by one. I built on that natural behavior, and then taught him to put his paws up on the washer and drop the dirty toys into the machine. A couple of hours later, he's delighted to get a dryer load of "brand-new" toys.

Now, if only I could teach him to load the dishwasher, too.

Most tricks are not so practical, but they all are fun for dog and owner alike. Let your imagination and your dog's enthusiasm guide you and remember: Even old dogs can learn new tricks, despite common wisdom on the subject.

BY THE NUMBERS

Members of the family

Birthday parties for pets? Better care for pets than for people? There's no doubt we're living in the Age of the Pet. Some highlights of a recent survey by the American Animal Hospital Association:

-- 18 percent of pet lovers have attended a pet birthday party

-- 69 percent let their pet break household rules when a spouse isn't around

-- 53 percent spend more time with pets now than three years ago

-- 58 percent say their pet sees a veterinarian more often than the owner sees a doctor

PETS ON THE WEB

Breeding dogs a virtual disaster

What could be easier than breeding dogs? You have a purebred golden retriever, the neighbor has a purebred golden retriever, you put them together, and nature takes care of the rest, right? When the puppies are sold, you pocket a couple of grand in profit. What could be better?

What could be worse is the reality of breeding, which takes considerable time and expense even under the best circumstances.

As any reputable breeder can tell you, dog-breeding can be a heartbreaking experience. You could lose your dog or the puppies, or you could spend so much money dealing with routine medical problems that you'll end up in the red.

Check out Jane Johnson's Virtual Breeding Web site at www.geocities.com/bluegracepwd/vb1.html. It will walk you through any number of real-life what-ifs that should get you thinking that maybe spaying or neutering your dog is the best idea yet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the best things to happen to dogs and those who love them is the growth in popularity of off-leash recreation areas nationwide.

As open spaces dwindle and property values make the large suburban back yard a thing of the past, these dog parks have emerged as a way to provide what most dogs desperately need: more exercise. Sedentary dogs develop health issues, such as obesity, and behavior problems that are worsened by excess energy and boredom, such as digging, barking, destructive chewing and that catch-all complaint of dog lovers everywhere: "He's too hyper!"

Dog parks make dogs tired, and a tired dog is a happy, good dog.

But the free-wheeling atmosphere of a dog park is not a good fit with every canine, and it's important to know before you click off the leash if your dog belongs inside an off-leash recreation area. And you need to know a few things about your behavior, too, to make your pet's dog-park experience better and safer for all.

The best candidate for a dog park is a healthy, well-socialized and friendly dog of medium size or larger. Smaller dogs are more easily hurt, and shy ones can be intimidated. Dogs who are aggressive toward people or other dogs have absolutely no business in a dog park, no excuses.

Puppies who have not completed their course of vaccinations and haven't been cleared by the veterinarian for outings should also stay clear. That's because you just can't tell the disease status of other canine visitors. And until your pup's immunity is where it should be, you're taking a potentially deadly risk by introducing him to a dog park.

The biggest problem with dog parks is not the dogs, but the people. Some of those problems are caused by people who know better, but other conflicts could easily be prevented with a little knowledge and foresight on the part of dog owners who truly don't know better.

The preparation begins before you ever set foot inside a park with your dog. Don't go in with food (for either you or your dog) or with your dog's favorite toy, since these high-value items can trigger fights. Do go in with lots of clean-up bags, and be sure to use them.

Once inside, don't open a book or get too involved in socializing with the other dog lovers. Your dog needs to be monitored at all times to keep him out of trouble. Don't allow your dog to be bullied, and don't allow your dog to be bully others. Sometimes the park mix isn't a good one, and you need to take your dog home.

Dog parks work only when people work at them. If park problems become more the rule than the exception, the trend will reverse and the dog park will disappear. Be responsible for your dog and help to keep the drive for more dog parks alive.

SIDEBAR

No leashes, but whose rules?

Despite the growing popularity of off-leash recreation for dogs, there are a few controversies when it comes to rules, primarily:

-- Children. Some who are looking for an outing with both their children and their pets want dog parks to be open to children. Proponents of "child-free" dog parks argue that children could get hurt by rambunctious dogs. If a child gets hurt, the dog will get blamed, they say, so it's better to leave children outside the gates.

-- Small dog/big dog. Some small dogs think they're big dogs. Some big dogs think small dogs are edible. The clash of attitudes does not work out well for small dogs. Many dog parks are now adding a separate area that's just for small dogs.

-- Fighting breeds. Pit bull terriers and other breeds developed for dog-fighting (and mixes of these breeds) are arguably not safe around other dogs. The pit bull advocacy group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pit bulls (BAD RAP, www.badrap.org), warns: "Never trust a pit bull not to fight" and suggests other types of recreation for these dogs.

-- Unneutered male dogs. Young male dogs who have not been altered are generally more territorial and more likely to fight.

Of the four common dog-park controversies, only the small dog/big dog issue seems to be easily remedied to the satisfaction of all sides. While arguments continue over who should be allowed in, savvy dog-park users sensibly vote with their feet, taking their animals out whenever any situation starts to develop that could spell trouble. -- G.S.

Q&A

Don't teach pup to be finicky

Q: I have a 4-month-old toy poodle. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest, and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll soon be opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for 15 to 20 minutes. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality food and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

Catnip Bliss

Q: Is it really safe to let my cat have all the catnip he wants? We're thinking of planting some because he loves it so much, but I want to make sure it's safe. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Put this worry aside. Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed out all the time. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content. Your cat might also enjoy valerian, as long as you're planting.

Make sure the plants are kept away until they're well-established, though, because some kitties are so crazy for catnip that they'll pull seedlings out by the roots. Once you have a good-sized plant, offer your cat fresh sprigs, rub the leaves on scratching posts or cat trees, or stuff them into toys.

Little-known facts about catnip: Not all cats like it. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Diabetic cats get best advice on site

If only every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com).

Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs to know (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring a pet's sugar levels. There's also a message board with thousands of posts on the challenges of the disease.

Feline Diabetes recently added an online store offering an innovative litter box that makes it easier to collect urine for testing. The box features washable, non-absorbent litter that can be rinsed with a mild antibacterial solution in anticipation of a diabetic cat's using it. The urine then flows into a reservoir for testing.

Any cat lover dealing with the diagnosis of feline diabetes absolutely must spend some time on this site. It's designed and developed with good science behind it, but also plenty of love. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Fiber can help eliminate hairballs

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet.

A little bit of canned pumpkin -– plain pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filler -- added to your pet's regular meals will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Combine it with canned food for palatability, or mix it with a little water from canned tuna or clams.

Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes.

Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Timely neutering can help end kitten surplus

With kitten season getting ready to roll, it's especially important to get those cats fixed. The advantages:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant. If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Most of the people who end up trying to find homes for kittens didn't mean for their pets to breed. They just didn't get a young cat to the veterinarian in time to prevent pregnancy. Your kitten can become pregnant before she's even half-grown, which is why many shelters these days alter cats before adoption, as early as 8 weeks of age.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PET TIP

Basic bird manners start with "step up"

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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