One of the biggest mistakes people make when pets go missing is underestimating the seriousness of the situation. When a pet gets out, the response should never be "wait and see."

"Your pet is about as capable of surviving on his own as a toddler is," says Liz Blackman, founder of 1-800-HELP-4-PETS (www.help4pets.com), a company that helps reunite lost pets with their owners. "The first thing people need to know when they lose a pet is that they need to act quickly and aggressively."

First on the "to do" list: a lost-pet sign.

"You don't need to describe your pet from nose to tail," says Blackman. "If you've lost a large black dog, start with that. Make sure the sign can be easily read from a distance. Include your phone number and area code. And put the word 'reward' in big, clear letters. Money can motivate a lot of people who might not care much otherwise."

To motivate others, Blackman suggests a measure of "sappiness."

"You need to get people emotionally involved," she says. "Tell them how you feel, how much you care. Put 'child is heartbroken' or 'my best friend is missing.' I know of total strangers who have taken off from work to help look for a missing pet because they were motivated by a sign."

Blackman says it's important to print enough signs and display them in the most effective way possible. Don't put them on wooden poles -- they increase risk of injury to utility line crews -– but do put them everywhere else they can be easily seen.

"Print a minimum of 100 and put half facing the street where drivers can see them, half facing the sidewalk so pedestrians can," she says. Also, put signs in places where pet people go: veterinary offices, dog parks, pet-supply stores and groomers. You'll also need to place a lost-pet ad in local newspapers and on lost-pet Web sites.

Because you'll be out looking for your pet, Blackman also suggests changing the message on your answering machine or voicemail to encourage people to leave a message.

"You don't want the finder to get frustrated, not knowing how long you'll take to call back," she says. Her suggestion: "If you're calling about my missing pet, I'm out looking for him right now. Please leave a message, and I'll call you as soon as I come in."

Enlist the help of friends, family and neighbors in the search, and go door-to-door in your area. Ask neighbors to check garages, tool sheds and crawl spaces. Cats often slip into such spaces unnoticed and are trapped when doors are shut behind them, says Blackman.

You'll need to visit every shelter in your area and look through the cages and runs yourself. Shelter workers are busy, and they might not remember seeing your pet or recognize him from your verbal description. Ask to see the pets in the infirmary as well as in the general runs, since your pet might have been injured.

While you're at the shelters, ask to check the listings of animals who didn't make it, such as those hit by cars. Hard as it is to know a pet was killed, it's often harder to never know what happened.

Just as you shouldn't delay in trying to find your pet, you shouldn't give up too easily. Keep looking for at least a month.

"People may tell you you're nuts to keep looking," says Blackman. "Make sure your signs stay posted and keep visiting the shelters."

SIDEBAR

Keep your pet from getting lost

The sad fact is that many lost pets are never reunited with their families, which makes prevention an essential part of protecting your pet.

-- Cats: Free-roaming cats are always at high-risk for disappearing. A collar and tag may help a cat find the way home, but the best advice is to always keep your cat inside.

-- Dogs: Again, collars and tags will help if the animal gets out, but keeping a pet from roaming is even more important. Check fences for loose boards or the beginnings of hole-digging, and keep gates locked.

Q&A

Dog skunked? Here's the cure

Q: You once wrote about how to get rid of skunk smell. I thought I'd saved it, but I couldn't find it last week when our Lab got hit. We tried tomato juice, which my husband had heard worked well, and we ended up with a reddish-yellow dog who still smelled pretty bad. Would you please share the recipe again? We sure need it! -- S.L., via e-mail

A: Over the years, I have come to believe that spring is finally here when I get my first letter on what to do when a dog gets skunked.

As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. I like to give the man credit when I share his discovery, because there's no way he'll ever make any money for saving the noses of countless grateful pet lovers.

Why not? It's because the ingredients are cheap and can be found in any grocery store, and they cannot be mixed in advance because the container you seal them in will explode from the pressure of the chemical reaction. So you'll never find a bottle of "Dr. Krebaum's Miracle Skunk-B-Gone" on the shelf in your nearest pet-supply store.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog like your Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, you don't want to take the time to run to the store when you have a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now and keep them on hand. But remember -- don't mix until seconds before application.

Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time.

Bird Diet

Q: I know this is weird, but my cockatiel loves to share food from my meals, especially Kentucky Fried Chicken. This strikes me as kind of sick, a bird eating a bird. Shouldn't she know better? -- W.I., via e-mail

A: Sharing "people food" is one of the best things you can do for your bird, as long as your diet isn't full of lots of junk. Fresh fruits and veggies are great for you both, along with such foods as pasta and rice, cottage cheese, and lean meats such as chicken. (I'd substitute lower-fat preparations for breaded and deep-fried, though.)

The staple you should always be feeding your parrot -- and yes, a cockatiel is a parrot, as is a budgie or parakeet -- is one of the many pelleted diets that are on the market. These are designed to cover the basics in terms of nutrition. But don't stop with pellets. Bring variety into your bird's diet by offering any healthy food you can think of -- the more choices, the better.

Give special consideration to foods that also fight boredom and provide exercise, such as nuts in the shell and corn on the cob.

Do keep your food and your bird's food separate, though. While I like the idea of sharing, it's better that you give your bird her own plate rather than let her pick off yours.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

New harnesses help with control

It used to be that the only way to walk an unruly dog was with a choke collar, and that didn't work very well. A choke collar is difficult to put on right, hard to use properly, and cruel if constantly tight around a dog's neck.

The first product to offer a good alternative to the choke collar was the head harness, developed by a veterinary behaviorist and sold under the Gentle Leader brand. For some dogs, though, a head halter wasn't a good option: They hated the product and were miserable with it on.

The buzz in dog-training circles these days is about front-clip body harnesses. I wrote about the Sense-sation and Hightower versions earlier this year, and now the folks behind the Gentle Leader have brought out their own: the Easy Walk (suggested retail: $25).

Unlike traditional chest harnesses that actually encourage pulling, the front-clip models use a dog's own forward momentum to change unwanted behavior. They're receiving rave reviews from trainers and owners alike.

PET Rx

What to do about a cat's runny nose

Many cats catch what seem to be "colds" sometime during their lives, and most of these afflictions are caused by viruses. Cats with upper respiratory infections are lethargic, have fevers, runny eyes and noses, and they sneeze and often do not want to eat or drink.

A trip to the veterinarian's is a good idea, but call ahead: These viruses are highly contagious, and your veterinarian will likely not want you and your cat sitting in the waiting room with other pets.

As with a cold in humans, so long as the fever is not too high (normal is 100 degrees to 102.5 degrees) and your cat continues to eat and drink, hospitalization can usually be avoided. Keeping your cat's eyes and nostrils free of "crust" by washing gently with a warm, moist cloth will help keep his appetite up. (Cats like to be able to smell their food.)

If your cat stops eating and, especially, drinking, dehydration is a danger and hospitalization may be needed. Since upper respiratory infections can be complicated by bacteria, antibiotics are often prescribed as well.

With appropriate care, most cats fully recover in a few days to a week; however, some cases can persist for more than two weeks. If your cat has repeated bouts of upper respiratory infections, your veterinarian may want to test for diseases that weaken the immune system.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET BOOK

Trick-training builds a bond with your dog

Trick-training isn't like regular canine obedience: The point is to have fun with your dog, spend time together and strengthen the bond between you.

Not to mention, it's also fun to show off what you've both accomplished afterward.

"The Only Dog Tricks Book You'll Ever Need" by Gerilyn Bielakiewicz (Adams, $8) is one of the best entries into the trick-training book category. Not only does it offer how-to instructions on dozens of tricks, but it also explains how dogs learn in a style that's both accurate and interesting.

You can take this neat little book and end up with better dog and a better understanding of how to train any dog. And following the directions won't feel like work to either you or your dog.

I love trick-training, and I especially like encouraging kids to teach their own dogs a thing or two. The obvious pride a child takes in showing off tricks taught to a pet is a wonderful thing to see!

My own favorite dog trick is one that developed as a game with one of my dogs. My older retriever, Ben, loves to bring me his stuffed toys, one by one. I built on that natural behavior, and then taught him to put his paws up on the washer and drop the dirty toys into the machine. A couple of hours later, he's delighted to get a dryer load of "brand-new" toys.

Now, if only I could teach him to load the dishwasher, too.

Most tricks are not so practical, but they all are fun for dog and owner alike. Let your imagination and your dog's enthusiasm guide you and remember: Even old dogs can learn new tricks, despite common wisdom on the subject.

BY THE NUMBERS

Members of the family

Birthday parties for pets? Better care for pets than for people? There's no doubt we're living in the Age of the Pet. Some highlights of a recent survey by the American Animal Hospital Association:

-- 18 percent of pet lovers have attended a pet birthday party

-- 69 percent let their pet break household rules when a spouse isn't around

-- 53 percent spend more time with pets now than three years ago

-- 58 percent say their pet sees a veterinarian more often than the owner sees a doctor

PETS ON THE WEB

Breeding dogs a virtual disaster

What could be easier than breeding dogs? You have a purebred golden retriever, the neighbor has a purebred golden retriever, you put them together, and nature takes care of the rest, right? When the puppies are sold, you pocket a couple of grand in profit. What could be better?

What could be worse is the reality of breeding, which takes considerable time and expense even under the best circumstances.

As any reputable breeder can tell you, dog-breeding can be a heartbreaking experience. You could lose your dog or the puppies, or you could spend so much money dealing with routine medical problems that you'll end up in the red.

Check out Jane Johnson's Virtual Breeding Web site at www.geocities.com/bluegracepwd/vb1.html. It will walk you through any number of real-life what-ifs that should get you thinking that maybe spaying or neutering your dog is the best idea yet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the best things to happen to dogs and those who love them is the growth in popularity of off-leash recreation areas nationwide.

As open spaces dwindle and property values make the large suburban back yard a thing of the past, these dog parks have emerged as a way to provide what most dogs desperately need: more exercise. Sedentary dogs develop health issues, such as obesity, and behavior problems that are worsened by excess energy and boredom, such as digging, barking, destructive chewing and that catch-all complaint of dog lovers everywhere: "He's too hyper!"

Dog parks make dogs tired, and a tired dog is a happy, good dog.

But the free-wheeling atmosphere of a dog park is not a good fit with every canine, and it's important to know before you click off the leash if your dog belongs inside an off-leash recreation area. And you need to know a few things about your behavior, too, to make your pet's dog-park experience better and safer for all.

The best candidate for a dog park is a healthy, well-socialized and friendly dog of medium size or larger. Smaller dogs are more easily hurt, and shy ones can be intimidated. Dogs who are aggressive toward people or other dogs have absolutely no business in a dog park, no excuses.

Puppies who have not completed their course of vaccinations and haven't been cleared by the veterinarian for outings should also stay clear. That's because you just can't tell the disease status of other canine visitors. And until your pup's immunity is where it should be, you're taking a potentially deadly risk by introducing him to a dog park.

The biggest problem with dog parks is not the dogs, but the people. Some of those problems are caused by people who know better, but other conflicts could easily be prevented with a little knowledge and foresight on the part of dog owners who truly don't know better.

The preparation begins before you ever set foot inside a park with your dog. Don't go in with food (for either you or your dog) or with your dog's favorite toy, since these high-value items can trigger fights. Do go in with lots of clean-up bags, and be sure to use them.

Once inside, don't open a book or get too involved in socializing with the other dog lovers. Your dog needs to be monitored at all times to keep him out of trouble. Don't allow your dog to be bullied, and don't allow your dog to be bully others. Sometimes the park mix isn't a good one, and you need to take your dog home.

Dog parks work only when people work at them. If park problems become more the rule than the exception, the trend will reverse and the dog park will disappear. Be responsible for your dog and help to keep the drive for more dog parks alive.

SIDEBAR

No leashes, but whose rules?

Despite the growing popularity of off-leash recreation for dogs, there are a few controversies when it comes to rules, primarily:

-- Children. Some who are looking for an outing with both their children and their pets want dog parks to be open to children. Proponents of "child-free" dog parks argue that children could get hurt by rambunctious dogs. If a child gets hurt, the dog will get blamed, they say, so it's better to leave children outside the gates.

-- Small dog/big dog. Some small dogs think they're big dogs. Some big dogs think small dogs are edible. The clash of attitudes does not work out well for small dogs. Many dog parks are now adding a separate area that's just for small dogs.

-- Fighting breeds. Pit bull terriers and other breeds developed for dog-fighting (and mixes of these breeds) are arguably not safe around other dogs. The pit bull advocacy group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pit bulls (BAD RAP, www.badrap.org), warns: "Never trust a pit bull not to fight" and suggests other types of recreation for these dogs.

-- Unneutered male dogs. Young male dogs who have not been altered are generally more territorial and more likely to fight.

Of the four common dog-park controversies, only the small dog/big dog issue seems to be easily remedied to the satisfaction of all sides. While arguments continue over who should be allowed in, savvy dog-park users sensibly vote with their feet, taking their animals out whenever any situation starts to develop that could spell trouble. -- G.S.

Q&A

Don't teach pup to be finicky

Q: I have a 4-month-old toy poodle. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest, and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll soon be opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for 15 to 20 minutes. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality food and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

Catnip Bliss

Q: Is it really safe to let my cat have all the catnip he wants? We're thinking of planting some because he loves it so much, but I want to make sure it's safe. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Put this worry aside. Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed out all the time. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content. Your cat might also enjoy valerian, as long as you're planting.

Make sure the plants are kept away until they're well-established, though, because some kitties are so crazy for catnip that they'll pull seedlings out by the roots. Once you have a good-sized plant, offer your cat fresh sprigs, rub the leaves on scratching posts or cat trees, or stuff them into toys.

Little-known facts about catnip: Not all cats like it. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Diabetic cats get best advice on site

If only every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com).

Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs to know (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring a pet's sugar levels. There's also a message board with thousands of posts on the challenges of the disease.

Feline Diabetes recently added an online store offering an innovative litter box that makes it easier to collect urine for testing. The box features washable, non-absorbent litter that can be rinsed with a mild antibacterial solution in anticipation of a diabetic cat's using it. The urine then flows into a reservoir for testing.

Any cat lover dealing with the diagnosis of feline diabetes absolutely must spend some time on this site. It's designed and developed with good science behind it, but also plenty of love. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Fiber can help eliminate hairballs

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet.

A little bit of canned pumpkin -– plain pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filler -- added to your pet's regular meals will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Combine it with canned food for palatability, or mix it with a little water from canned tuna or clams.

Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes.

Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Timely neutering can help end kitten surplus

With kitten season getting ready to roll, it's especially important to get those cats fixed. The advantages:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant. If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Most of the people who end up trying to find homes for kittens didn't mean for their pets to breed. They just didn't get a young cat to the veterinarian in time to prevent pregnancy. Your kitten can become pregnant before she's even half-grown, which is why many shelters these days alter cats before adoption, as early as 8 weeks of age.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PET TIP

Basic bird manners start with "step up"

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Dr. Kate Hurley is an upbeat woman, especially for someone in her line of work. Walking down a line of cats up for adoption at the Sacramento, Calif., SPCA, the veterinarian stops to make eye contact with each one and coo baby talk at the friendlier felines.

She loves them all, even if she can't save them all. But she's working on the latter cause, to be sure.

As the head of the pioneering Shelter Medicine Program at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine, Hurley is on the cutting edge of efforts to save as many shelter animals as possible by making them more adoptable. That means keeping them healthy, keeping them sane in a sometimes stressful shelter environment, and solving the behavior problems that may have led to their abandonment in the first place.

She didn't intend shelter work as a career path, but it has become her calling and her passion.

"I started working in shelters in 1989, and the numbers were so overwhelming then. One sneeze from a cat, one cough from a dog and that was it -- they'd be pulled for euthanasia," she said. "Two weeks after I graduated from veterinary school in '99 I was hired by a shelter in charge of the health of 500 animals. I needed more information on shelter medicine, and there just wasn't anything."

That lack of knowledge was a death sentence to many animals. When infectious diseases broke out, it was standard procedure in many facilities to euthanize even healthy animals who'd been near a sick one. Hurley's work today is to come up with protocols to prevent outbreaks, and also to limit them so healthy animals do not have to be killed.

"Shelters are hungry for information of this type," she says. "For example, how long after a vaccine is given does it protect an animal? For someone's pet, the answer isn't as important. They're going home, to a safe environment. For an animal going back into a shelter facility, the answer is much more important."

One of the reasons shelter medicine finally has backing as a field of study is that there are fewer unwanted animals. Thanks to aggressive spay-neuter efforts, the number of homeless pets has fallen to the point that curable illnesses no longer mean a death sentence in many shelters, and the spread of disease is no longer seen as a sad, but necessary, reason to reduce the numbers of animals.

But the changes have brought their own challenges. Today's shelter pets are older, and they often come with minor behavior issues that can be a turnoff to a potential adopter.

"The victory feels different than we thought it would be," says Hurley. "Keeping a puppy from getting distemper is so much easier than dealing with a dog who hasn't been socialized."

The behavior problems of shelter pets are the specialty of Dr. Sheila Segurson, a resident in the Shelter Medicine Program who is also working toward certification as a veterinary behaviorist.

"Behavior is really important," says Segurson. "You need to have a way to assess behavior in a shelter environment, and enrich that environment to reduce overall stress on the animal. And finally, there need to be programs for training and behavior modification.

"Something as basic as teaching a dog not to pull on the leash can make an animal more adoptable."

Adoptions, after all, are what it's all about. For while the UCD Shelter Medicine Program is focused on the big picture of keeping a greater percentage of shelter animals healthy, Hurley and Segurson are well aware that shelters still work one animal at a time to get these pets into loving homes.

"If we can keep an animal healthy and that animal doesn't get a home -- then we've lost," says Hurley. "What we want is people getting good pets from shelters, and then telling their friends."

Q&A

Smaller dogs have big dental challenges

Q: I read your piece on dental care for pets, and I have some questions. Do Shelties have excessive plaque buildup? If so, are there any remedies? My 3-year-old has required two teeth cleanings so far. I am afraid of having my dog put under anesthesia over and over. Should I try cleaning her teeth myself with a dental pick? -- J.P., via e-mail

A: As a general rule, the smaller the dog, the faster the plaque buildup. You should not attempt to clean your dog's teeth with a dental pick because you likely will cause more problems than you'll prevent -- damaging the surface of the tooth enamel and, in so doing, giving bacteria a nice little niche to call home. You can also slip and slash the gums.

Many pet owners shy away from dental work for their pets for the very reason you do: They're worried about losing their companion to anesthesia. In recent years, however, the use of safer anesthetic agents has become nearly universal, making dental work advisable even for older pets.

In short: The long-term risk of ignoring your pet's teeth is greater than the short-term risk of anesthesia.

After your pet's next cleaning, step up your attention with at-home preventive care to keep things in good shape and greatly extend the time between cleanings.

Here are the basics:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for dogs twice a week at least, although daily is better. You can use a brush designed for dogs, a soft children's brush, a cleaning tip that fits over your finger, or even plain gauze wrapped around your finger. Experiment to see what works best for you and your dog, and be positive about the brushing experience.

You can also try newer gels that are swiped onto the teeth to help dissolve plaque. Ask your veterinarian about these products.

-- Feed your dog dry food and offer teeth-cleaning toys. Yes, dry food helps (and prescription diets designed to scrape teeth may help even more), but it must be used in combination with regular brushing and with toys that help wipe the teeth. Soft chewies or rope toys are best. Avoid chews that are rock-hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces, as these can break teeth or slice gums.

For most dogs and cats, regular dental cleanings are as important to pets' long-term health as they are to ours. Keeping teeth in good health prevents bad breath, preserves teeth into old age, and protects the pet's organs from the constant shower of bacteria caused by rotting teeth and gums.

Diligent at-home care is the best way to keep your dog's teeth and gums healthy. Work with your veterinarian to come up with the best overall strategy for this important aspect of preventive healthcare for your pet.

Q: How often does a litter box have to be cleaned? If we're using clumping litter, shouldn't it be OK until the weekend? -- S.C., via e-mail

A: Ideally,the box should be scooped every time the cat uses it, or a couple of times a day at least. Realistically, daily attention is probably fine.

If you're neglecting this chore, you're inviting a behavior problem I know you don't want: a cat who skips the litter box. Cats don't like dirty bathrooms any more than people do, and your pet may start looking for a cleaner place to go if the box isn't to his liking.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Invention prevents loose-leash accidents

Reel-type retractable leashes such as the Flexi have become enormously popular in recent years because they allow a dog more freedom and exercise while remaining on leash.

Handy and popular as they are, however, reel-type leashes aren't designed for use with dogs who aren't well-trained. A strong, out-of-control dog can hit the end of the leash with enough force to pop the handle out of even the strongest hand. Once the handle is free, it can spook the dog into bolting as it bounces on the ground behind the animal.

The results can be disastrous.

Andrea Dupree, a Seattle-based jazz singer, was walking Morgan, her Italian greyhound, when she lost her grip on the handle of her reel-type leash. Her dog panicked and raced down a city street, with the handle clattering behind him. Dupree caught the leash and the dog just before they headed into traffic.

From that experience, she came up with the idea for a safety device, and poured her savings into the creation and marketing of the Keep 'Um Safe Safety Loop. The device loops through the handle of the retractable leash and then securely around the wrist, providing a secure connection even if the leash handle pops free.

It's a fabulous idea, a must-buy for anyone who routinely walks a dog on a reel-type leash. The sturdy safety loop is made in America, is simple to attach to any reel-type leash, costs $7.99 (plus $4 shipping and handling) and comes in four colors. For more information or to order, call 800-959-4528 or visit www.keepumsafe.com.

PET Rx

Fleas can bother ferrets, rabbits, too

Fleas are equal-opportunity parasites, and although they may have their preferences, they are happy to feed on most furry animals.

The safest way to control fleas on indoor pets is to remove all stages of fleas from the environment. For pets such as rabbits or ferrets who do not have access to the outside -- or to other pets who go in and out -- getting the house flea-free and maintaining it in that condition is the best way to go.

Before you move into a new place where pets have lived, have the premises treated to kill hungry adult fleas and their larvae. Once you're in, vacuum frequently, empty the machine after each use and keep flea-killing powder in the bag or canister. Borax powder beaten into carpets and dusted into floor crevices will also help to kill developing larvae.

In addition, all pet bedding should be washed weekly.

Although prescription flea-control medications may not be approved for use on animals other than dogs and cats, that doesn't mean they cannot be safely used for ferrets and rabbits under your veterinarian's guidance. Other flea-control products can kill a rabbit or ferret, though, so be careful.

Best bet: Talk to your veterinarian about flea-control strategies for any pet.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PETS BY THE BOOK

Helpful guides to an often-neglected pet

The Easter Bunny is a pretty good salesman. At this time of year, bunnies are everywhere -- on cards, on candy-wrappers and in pet stores.

But unlike the Easter ephemera that can be tossed after the holiday, a rabbit needs proper care. They do make wonderful and engaging pets if cared for properly, and that's where a new book comes in.

"A House Rabbit Primer," by Lucile C. Moore (Santa Monica Press; $15) is as complete a handbook as I've seen on these pets. Moore has a doctoral degree in biology with a specialty in animal behavior, and her experience shows, along with an obvious love for rabbits (she has eight of them as house pets).

The book provides excellent advice on setting up a house rabbit, litter box training, proper feeding and health concerns. If you've never had a rabbit indoors before, Moore explains how rabbits think and why they act as they do.

While "A House Rabbit Primer" is the latest book to cover keeping rabbits as indoor pets, it's certainly not the first. Marinell Harriman's "House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit" (Drollery Press, $11) was first to recognize that a rabbit could be as delightful a pet as any dog or cat, but only if given a chance to interact as part of the family.

Harriman coined the term "house rabbit"; her book is now in its fourth printing, and her leadership led to success of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) and countless other rabbit rescue and care groups around the world.

If you're considering the addition of a house rabbit now or any other time of year, please contact your local shelter or rescue group. You'll find rabbits large and small, lop eared or not, in all possible coat patterns, every one in desperate need of a home.

BY THE NUMBERS

Who's better company?

We love to be with our pets! For more than a few of us, the choice of a pet takes top priority, even over human companionship. Guess there's something to be said for a companion who listens but doesn't talk.

If you were deserted on an island and could have only one companion, which would you pick?

Human 47 percent

Dog 40 percent

Cat 10 percent

Other 2 percent

None 1 percent

Source: American Animal Hospital Association

ON THE WEB

Good information from Cornell site

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine has long been a good place for cutting-edge information on the care of cats.

Their Feline Health Center has its own Web site (www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/) with the solid advice on many common health problems in cats, such as diabetes and leukemia. The site also offers reliable tips on taming behavioral problems, including the No. 1 behavior problem in cats: litter-box avoidance.

You have to dig a little to find the health and behavior information, though, since the Web site seems primarily geared to raising money for health research -- a laudable goal, of course -- by selling Cornell-related products or offering memorial contributions in memory of a lost cat.

If all you're looking for is help, however, the site is a good place to start, and generously offers links to other resources to help you continue your research.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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