One of the best things to happen to dogs and those who love them is the growth in popularity of off-leash recreation areas nationwide.

As open spaces dwindle and property values make the large suburban back yard a thing of the past, these dog parks have emerged as a way to provide what most dogs desperately need: more exercise. Sedentary dogs develop health issues, such as obesity, and behavior problems that are worsened by excess energy and boredom, such as digging, barking, destructive chewing and that catch-all complaint of dog lovers everywhere: "He's too hyper!"

Dog parks make dogs tired, and a tired dog is a happy, good dog.

But the free-wheeling atmosphere of a dog park is not a good fit with every canine, and it's important to know before you click off the leash if your dog belongs inside an off-leash recreation area. And you need to know a few things about your behavior, too, to make your pet's dog-park experience better and safer for all.

The best candidate for a dog park is a healthy, well-socialized and friendly dog of medium size or larger. Smaller dogs are more easily hurt, and shy ones can be intimidated. Dogs who are aggressive toward people or other dogs have absolutely no business in a dog park, no excuses.

Puppies who have not completed their course of vaccinations and haven't been cleared by the veterinarian for outings should also stay clear. That's because you just can't tell the disease status of other canine visitors. And until your pup's immunity is where it should be, you're taking a potentially deadly risk by introducing him to a dog park.

The biggest problem with dog parks is not the dogs, but the people. Some of those problems are caused by people who know better, but other conflicts could easily be prevented with a little knowledge and foresight on the part of dog owners who truly don't know better.

The preparation begins before you ever set foot inside a park with your dog. Don't go in with food (for either you or your dog) or with your dog's favorite toy, since these high-value items can trigger fights. Do go in with lots of clean-up bags, and be sure to use them.

Once inside, don't open a book or get too involved in socializing with the other dog lovers. Your dog needs to be monitored at all times to keep him out of trouble. Don't allow your dog to be bullied, and don't allow your dog to be bully others. Sometimes the park mix isn't a good one, and you need to take your dog home.

Dog parks work only when people work at them. If park problems become more the rule than the exception, the trend will reverse and the dog park will disappear. Be responsible for your dog and help to keep the drive for more dog parks alive.

SIDEBAR

No leashes, but whose rules?

Despite the growing popularity of off-leash recreation for dogs, there are a few controversies when it comes to rules, primarily:

-- Children. Some who are looking for an outing with both their children and their pets want dog parks to be open to children. Proponents of "child-free" dog parks argue that children could get hurt by rambunctious dogs. If a child gets hurt, the dog will get blamed, they say, so it's better to leave children outside the gates.

-- Small dog/big dog. Some small dogs think they're big dogs. Some big dogs think small dogs are edible. The clash of attitudes does not work out well for small dogs. Many dog parks are now adding a separate area that's just for small dogs.

-- Fighting breeds. Pit bull terriers and other breeds developed for dog-fighting (and mixes of these breeds) are arguably not safe around other dogs. The pit bull advocacy group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pit bulls (BAD RAP, www.badrap.org), warns: "Never trust a pit bull not to fight" and suggests other types of recreation for these dogs.

-- Unneutered male dogs. Young male dogs who have not been altered are generally more territorial and more likely to fight.

Of the four common dog-park controversies, only the small dog/big dog issue seems to be easily remedied to the satisfaction of all sides. While arguments continue over who should be allowed in, savvy dog-park users sensibly vote with their feet, taking their animals out whenever any situation starts to develop that could spell trouble. -- G.S.

Q&A

Don't teach pup to be finicky

Q: I have a 4-month-old toy poodle. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest, and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll soon be opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for 15 to 20 minutes. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality food and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

Catnip Bliss

Q: Is it really safe to let my cat have all the catnip he wants? We're thinking of planting some because he loves it so much, but I want to make sure it's safe. -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Put this worry aside. Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed out all the time. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content. Your cat might also enjoy valerian, as long as you're planting.

Make sure the plants are kept away until they're well-established, though, because some kitties are so crazy for catnip that they'll pull seedlings out by the roots. Once you have a good-sized plant, offer your cat fresh sprigs, rub the leaves on scratching posts or cat trees, or stuff them into toys.

Little-known facts about catnip: Not all cats like it. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Diabetic cats get best advice on site

If only every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com).

Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs to know (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring a pet's sugar levels. There's also a message board with thousands of posts on the challenges of the disease.

Feline Diabetes recently added an online store offering an innovative litter box that makes it easier to collect urine for testing. The box features washable, non-absorbent litter that can be rinsed with a mild antibacterial solution in anticipation of a diabetic cat's using it. The urine then flows into a reservoir for testing.

Any cat lover dealing with the diagnosis of feline diabetes absolutely must spend some time on this site. It's designed and developed with good science behind it, but also plenty of love. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Fiber can help eliminate hairballs

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet.

A little bit of canned pumpkin -– plain pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filler -- added to your pet's regular meals will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Combine it with canned food for palatability, or mix it with a little water from canned tuna or clams.

Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes.

Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Timely neutering can help end kitten surplus

With kitten season getting ready to roll, it's especially important to get those cats fixed. The advantages:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant. If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Most of the people who end up trying to find homes for kittens didn't mean for their pets to breed. They just didn't get a young cat to the veterinarian in time to prevent pregnancy. Your kitten can become pregnant before she's even half-grown, which is why many shelters these days alter cats before adoption, as early as 8 weeks of age.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PET TIP

Basic bird manners start with "step up"

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Dr. Kate Hurley is an upbeat woman, especially for someone in her line of work. Walking down a line of cats up for adoption at the Sacramento, Calif., SPCA, the veterinarian stops to make eye contact with each one and coo baby talk at the friendlier felines.

She loves them all, even if she can't save them all. But she's working on the latter cause, to be sure.

As the head of the pioneering Shelter Medicine Program at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine, Hurley is on the cutting edge of efforts to save as many shelter animals as possible by making them more adoptable. That means keeping them healthy, keeping them sane in a sometimes stressful shelter environment, and solving the behavior problems that may have led to their abandonment in the first place.

She didn't intend shelter work as a career path, but it has become her calling and her passion.

"I started working in shelters in 1989, and the numbers were so overwhelming then. One sneeze from a cat, one cough from a dog and that was it -- they'd be pulled for euthanasia," she said. "Two weeks after I graduated from veterinary school in '99 I was hired by a shelter in charge of the health of 500 animals. I needed more information on shelter medicine, and there just wasn't anything."

That lack of knowledge was a death sentence to many animals. When infectious diseases broke out, it was standard procedure in many facilities to euthanize even healthy animals who'd been near a sick one. Hurley's work today is to come up with protocols to prevent outbreaks, and also to limit them so healthy animals do not have to be killed.

"Shelters are hungry for information of this type," she says. "For example, how long after a vaccine is given does it protect an animal? For someone's pet, the answer isn't as important. They're going home, to a safe environment. For an animal going back into a shelter facility, the answer is much more important."

One of the reasons shelter medicine finally has backing as a field of study is that there are fewer unwanted animals. Thanks to aggressive spay-neuter efforts, the number of homeless pets has fallen to the point that curable illnesses no longer mean a death sentence in many shelters, and the spread of disease is no longer seen as a sad, but necessary, reason to reduce the numbers of animals.

But the changes have brought their own challenges. Today's shelter pets are older, and they often come with minor behavior issues that can be a turnoff to a potential adopter.

"The victory feels different than we thought it would be," says Hurley. "Keeping a puppy from getting distemper is so much easier than dealing with a dog who hasn't been socialized."

The behavior problems of shelter pets are the specialty of Dr. Sheila Segurson, a resident in the Shelter Medicine Program who is also working toward certification as a veterinary behaviorist.

"Behavior is really important," says Segurson. "You need to have a way to assess behavior in a shelter environment, and enrich that environment to reduce overall stress on the animal. And finally, there need to be programs for training and behavior modification.

"Something as basic as teaching a dog not to pull on the leash can make an animal more adoptable."

Adoptions, after all, are what it's all about. For while the UCD Shelter Medicine Program is focused on the big picture of keeping a greater percentage of shelter animals healthy, Hurley and Segurson are well aware that shelters still work one animal at a time to get these pets into loving homes.

"If we can keep an animal healthy and that animal doesn't get a home -- then we've lost," says Hurley. "What we want is people getting good pets from shelters, and then telling their friends."

Q&A

Smaller dogs have big dental challenges

Q: I read your piece on dental care for pets, and I have some questions. Do Shelties have excessive plaque buildup? If so, are there any remedies? My 3-year-old has required two teeth cleanings so far. I am afraid of having my dog put under anesthesia over and over. Should I try cleaning her teeth myself with a dental pick? -- J.P., via e-mail

A: As a general rule, the smaller the dog, the faster the plaque buildup. You should not attempt to clean your dog's teeth with a dental pick because you likely will cause more problems than you'll prevent -- damaging the surface of the tooth enamel and, in so doing, giving bacteria a nice little niche to call home. You can also slip and slash the gums.

Many pet owners shy away from dental work for their pets for the very reason you do: They're worried about losing their companion to anesthesia. In recent years, however, the use of safer anesthetic agents has become nearly universal, making dental work advisable even for older pets.

In short: The long-term risk of ignoring your pet's teeth is greater than the short-term risk of anesthesia.

After your pet's next cleaning, step up your attention with at-home preventive care to keep things in good shape and greatly extend the time between cleanings.

Here are the basics:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for dogs twice a week at least, although daily is better. You can use a brush designed for dogs, a soft children's brush, a cleaning tip that fits over your finger, or even plain gauze wrapped around your finger. Experiment to see what works best for you and your dog, and be positive about the brushing experience.

You can also try newer gels that are swiped onto the teeth to help dissolve plaque. Ask your veterinarian about these products.

-- Feed your dog dry food and offer teeth-cleaning toys. Yes, dry food helps (and prescription diets designed to scrape teeth may help even more), but it must be used in combination with regular brushing and with toys that help wipe the teeth. Soft chewies or rope toys are best. Avoid chews that are rock-hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces, as these can break teeth or slice gums.

For most dogs and cats, regular dental cleanings are as important to pets' long-term health as they are to ours. Keeping teeth in good health prevents bad breath, preserves teeth into old age, and protects the pet's organs from the constant shower of bacteria caused by rotting teeth and gums.

Diligent at-home care is the best way to keep your dog's teeth and gums healthy. Work with your veterinarian to come up with the best overall strategy for this important aspect of preventive healthcare for your pet.

Q: How often does a litter box have to be cleaned? If we're using clumping litter, shouldn't it be OK until the weekend? -- S.C., via e-mail

A: Ideally,the box should be scooped every time the cat uses it, or a couple of times a day at least. Realistically, daily attention is probably fine.

If you're neglecting this chore, you're inviting a behavior problem I know you don't want: a cat who skips the litter box. Cats don't like dirty bathrooms any more than people do, and your pet may start looking for a cleaner place to go if the box isn't to his liking.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Invention prevents loose-leash accidents

Reel-type retractable leashes such as the Flexi have become enormously popular in recent years because they allow a dog more freedom and exercise while remaining on leash.

Handy and popular as they are, however, reel-type leashes aren't designed for use with dogs who aren't well-trained. A strong, out-of-control dog can hit the end of the leash with enough force to pop the handle out of even the strongest hand. Once the handle is free, it can spook the dog into bolting as it bounces on the ground behind the animal.

The results can be disastrous.

Andrea Dupree, a Seattle-based jazz singer, was walking Morgan, her Italian greyhound, when she lost her grip on the handle of her reel-type leash. Her dog panicked and raced down a city street, with the handle clattering behind him. Dupree caught the leash and the dog just before they headed into traffic.

From that experience, she came up with the idea for a safety device, and poured her savings into the creation and marketing of the Keep 'Um Safe Safety Loop. The device loops through the handle of the retractable leash and then securely around the wrist, providing a secure connection even if the leash handle pops free.

It's a fabulous idea, a must-buy for anyone who routinely walks a dog on a reel-type leash. The sturdy safety loop is made in America, is simple to attach to any reel-type leash, costs $7.99 (plus $4 shipping and handling) and comes in four colors. For more information or to order, call 800-959-4528 or visit www.keepumsafe.com.

PET Rx

Fleas can bother ferrets, rabbits, too

Fleas are equal-opportunity parasites, and although they may have their preferences, they are happy to feed on most furry animals.

The safest way to control fleas on indoor pets is to remove all stages of fleas from the environment. For pets such as rabbits or ferrets who do not have access to the outside -- or to other pets who go in and out -- getting the house flea-free and maintaining it in that condition is the best way to go.

Before you move into a new place where pets have lived, have the premises treated to kill hungry adult fleas and their larvae. Once you're in, vacuum frequently, empty the machine after each use and keep flea-killing powder in the bag or canister. Borax powder beaten into carpets and dusted into floor crevices will also help to kill developing larvae.

In addition, all pet bedding should be washed weekly.

Although prescription flea-control medications may not be approved for use on animals other than dogs and cats, that doesn't mean they cannot be safely used for ferrets and rabbits under your veterinarian's guidance. Other flea-control products can kill a rabbit or ferret, though, so be careful.

Best bet: Talk to your veterinarian about flea-control strategies for any pet.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PETS BY THE BOOK

Helpful guides to an often-neglected pet

The Easter Bunny is a pretty good salesman. At this time of year, bunnies are everywhere -- on cards, on candy-wrappers and in pet stores.

But unlike the Easter ephemera that can be tossed after the holiday, a rabbit needs proper care. They do make wonderful and engaging pets if cared for properly, and that's where a new book comes in.

"A House Rabbit Primer," by Lucile C. Moore (Santa Monica Press; $15) is as complete a handbook as I've seen on these pets. Moore has a doctoral degree in biology with a specialty in animal behavior, and her experience shows, along with an obvious love for rabbits (she has eight of them as house pets).

The book provides excellent advice on setting up a house rabbit, litter box training, proper feeding and health concerns. If you've never had a rabbit indoors before, Moore explains how rabbits think and why they act as they do.

While "A House Rabbit Primer" is the latest book to cover keeping rabbits as indoor pets, it's certainly not the first. Marinell Harriman's "House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit" (Drollery Press, $11) was first to recognize that a rabbit could be as delightful a pet as any dog or cat, but only if given a chance to interact as part of the family.

Harriman coined the term "house rabbit"; her book is now in its fourth printing, and her leadership led to success of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) and countless other rabbit rescue and care groups around the world.

If you're considering the addition of a house rabbit now or any other time of year, please contact your local shelter or rescue group. You'll find rabbits large and small, lop eared or not, in all possible coat patterns, every one in desperate need of a home.

BY THE NUMBERS

Who's better company?

We love to be with our pets! For more than a few of us, the choice of a pet takes top priority, even over human companionship. Guess there's something to be said for a companion who listens but doesn't talk.

If you were deserted on an island and could have only one companion, which would you pick?

Human 47 percent

Dog 40 percent

Cat 10 percent

Other 2 percent

None 1 percent

Source: American Animal Hospital Association

ON THE WEB

Good information from Cornell site

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine has long been a good place for cutting-edge information on the care of cats.

Their Feline Health Center has its own Web site (www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/) with the solid advice on many common health problems in cats, such as diabetes and leukemia. The site also offers reliable tips on taming behavioral problems, including the No. 1 behavior problem in cats: litter-box avoidance.

You have to dig a little to find the health and behavior information, though, since the Web site seems primarily geared to raising money for health research -- a laudable goal, of course -- by selling Cornell-related products or offering memorial contributions in memory of a lost cat.

If all you're looking for is help, however, the site is a good place to start, and generously offers links to other resources to help you continue your research.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As a native Californian, I am used to the sometimes silly stuff that seems to catch on in the Golden State with such frequency as to give people elsewhere plenty of reasons to roll their eyes and snicker.

As a person who has lived in the Deep South, I've seen eyes roll and have heard those snickers. This is probably why, when I came back to California four years ago with an old, arthritic dog in tow, I was not quick to act on a friend's recommendation that I take Andy to see a veterinarian who specialized in acupuncture.

Of course, there's nothing new or trendy about acupuncture, but the practice of it in veterinary medicine is anything but mainstream. It's part of a collection of healing techniques lumped together as "alternative" or "holistic," and traditionally not looked on with much favor in the nation's veterinary schools. The long-established Chinese medical practice involves the insertion of needles to stimulate the healing process or release hormones that help with pain or inflammation. In veterinary medicine, acupuncture is most often used on chronic health problems, not only pain but also chronic gastrointestinal disease, respiratory problems such as feline asthma, chronic skin conditions and kidney disease.

I knew all this, but wasn't much interested. I had -- and still have -- a good working relationship with my veterinarian, and I knew he was doing all he could for my then-14-year-old dog.

But it hurts to see a beloved old dog in such pain, and I came to realize that we'd reached the limits of what Western medicine could do for Andy. In the context of my having to consider putting Andy down to end his suffering, an alternative treatment seemed well worth trying.

And so, I went to see Dr. Signe Beebe, a graduate of Purdue's School of Veterinary Medicine, an officer in the Army Reserve, a longtime expert in emergency veterinary medicine -- and a wholeheartedly enthusiastic practitioner of acupuncture.

She made my old dog feel so much better in just a couple of visits that he started demanding a daily walk again. And on those walks, even my neighbors noticed how much more easily my sweet old dog was moving and how much happier he seemed. The acupuncture turned Andy's life around and kept him feeling good until the night before he died of congestive heart failure at almost 16.

It was the kind of experience that gives you a fresh perspective on something you'd never much thought about before.

Beebe acknowledges that my type of pet lover is one of two she sees in her practice -- the person who isn't sure about non-Western medicine but who is driven by love to try anything that might ease an animal's suffering.

"I also see people who have had acupuncture themselves," she said. "It has helped them, and now they want it for their cat or dog."

Since many of the problems acupuncture works best on tend to pop up in older pets, it's no surprise that geriatric patients make up a large part of a veterinary acupuncturist's practice. Four years after first seeing how much acupuncture helped Andy in his last few months, I am now back seeking treatment for my nearly 11-year-old retriever, Benjamin. I know I can't turn back the clock, but I want for him what Andy had: a good quality of life until the very end.

This time, though, I need no convincing to try acupuncture.

Like Andy before him, Ben is already doing better with acupuncture, especially when it comes to managing the pains of old age. When you have an old dog, you know you won't be getting a cure or even much in the way of time.

But every day an old pet feels better is a reason to believe -- and to celebrate.

SIDEBAR

Where to find an acupuncturist

As with most specialists, veterinarians trained in acupuncture tend to be found in urban areas, or in communities near schools or colleges of veterinary medicine. The following organizations can help you find an acupuncturist for your pet:

-- International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (www.ivas.org, 970-266-0666)

-- American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture (www.aava.org, 860-635-6300)

-- American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association (www.ahvma.org, 410-569-0795)

Q&A

Easter a problem for rabbit rescue

Q: Would you please say something about Easter and rabbits? Although we who foster unwanted rabbits are delighted to find great homes for them, we want to make sure anyone getting a rabbit is sure a rabbit is right for them.

At this time of year, a lot of people get rabbits as pets for their children without doing any research at all. Rabbit rescues think of Easter the way dog-rescue groups think of Christmas, as a time when people get pets they shouldn't, only to give up later. -- W.G., via e-mail

A: Before I get to rabbits, let me mention those Easter animals that are completely and utterly unsuitable as children's pets: baby chicks and ducks. These little fuzzies may be adorable, but they grow up into unsuitable pets for most urban and suburban families. That's if they grow up at all: Many baby chicks and ducks die in the first days after purchase because of improper care or handling.

As for rabbits, they can be wonderful pets, and it's easy to see the attraction. Baby rabbits, especially, are as cute as cute can be, with soft coats seemingly so perfect for petting.

A rabbit can be a good pet for a child, but generally only those children who are old enough to learn how to properly hold a rabbit to prevent injuries. As with any children's pet, the ultimate responsibility for proper care and supervision must remain with the parents.

Anyone who's thinking about getting a rabbit needs to know that these social animals are not happy spending their lives alone in small outdoor hutches. Many rabbits can be litter-box trained, and enjoy spending supervised time outside of their cages in the house. They like to be part of the family!

Do some research before considering a rabbit. Recommended reading: "Rabbits for Dummies" by Audrey Pavia (Wiley, $17), or "House Rabbit Handbook: How To Live With an Urban Rabbit" by Marinell Harriman (Drollery Press, $11). Another excellent source of pet rabbit information is the Web site of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org), which also offers information on how to adopt a rabbit. Shelters and rescue groups are always packed with wonderful rabbits who need a second chance at a good home.

Q: For a couple of months, my dog's eye has been dry with a colored discharge. We saw the veterinarian, and he sold us some pricey ointment that hasn't helped.

I don't want to go back and pay for another exam, because the first time didn't do squat to help my dog. Can you recommend something that will help? -- V.S., via e-mail

A: Whenever a medication your veterinarian gives you doesn't do the trick for any reason, you need to go back for further assistance.

Follow-up care is perhaps the most neglected part of veterinary medicine. Every day I hear from people whose pets are still living with problems that would be treatable if their owners had followed through with their good intentions. A medication may need to be stronger, be given longer or may need to be changed -- decisions that can be made only by a veterinarian. Don't discount the amount of discomfort or pain your pet is in while you try to figure out what to do next. Get help!

Since those of use who are not veterinarians are often way off the mark when it comes to a proper diagnosis, I advise that over-the-counter remedies be purchased and used only as part of treatment program recommended by your veterinarian.

If you don't know what you're treating, an over-the-counter remedy could be a waste of money and could possibly do more harm than good.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

One-stop shopping for special pets

Almost 20 years ago, I got a call from a woman who wanted me to meet her dog, a dachshund mix whose hind end was paralyzed as a result of the kind of spinal injury so common in long-backed dogs. The dog had been fitted with a wheeled cart, and she wanted me to write about how the cart was better choice than putting a paralyzed dog to sleep.

I had my doubts that the dog's quality of life could be very good, but I went out to visit the family and their dog, Mo.

Mo's happy barking could be heard as I approached the door, and when I met the dog, I knew his owners were right. This was a dog who was not slowed down at all by his paralysis, and he was living a life as happy as any able-bodied, well-loved pet.

I became a firm believer in "doggy wheelchairs" that day.

The folks at the Handicapped Pets Web site (www.handicappedpets.com) are firm believers as well -- not only in carts for paralyzed pets, but also in other products and services that can maintain or improve an animal's quality of life after an injury or as he ages. Perhaps just as important: discussion groups, articles and images that can help people cope with a pet's special needs.

PET Rx

Heartworms can infect cats, too

Although heartworm disease is primarily seen as a problem in dogs, cats can also be infected with the parasites.

Symptoms of heartworm disease in cats include difficulty breathing, chronic coughing and vomiting. Because these symptoms can be signs of other diseases, heartworm infestations in cats can be incorrectly diagnosed as another health problem, such as feline asthma.

The first sign of a heartworm problem might also be the final one: As with dogs, sudden death can be the only noticeable sign of a severe heartworm infestation in cats.

Because the presence of heartworms can be so difficult to diagnose in cats and the consequences of infestation are so severe, preventive medication is recommended for cats living in areas where the parasites are prevalent.

Talk to your veterinarian about what's best for your cat when it comes to preventing heartworm disease.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

BREED TYPE

Sturdy beagle a popular choice for families with kids

One of America's most popular dogs for generations, the beagle is friendly, independent, inquisitive, great with kids and a bit of a barker. His easy charm, compact size and minimal grooming requirements make him seem like an ideal lap dog, but beagles can be active and challenging pets.

Young beagles play hard and need lots of exercise, but even older couch-potato beagles needs to be kept active physically and mentally. Beagles are insatiably curious and highly social dogs, and can suffer from boredom and loneliness. A beagle needs a life full of fun outings that will exercise both his mind and body.

Beagles are wonderful family dogs -- handsome, active and outgoing, with a deserved reputation for being good with children. So why are beagle rescues flooded with these dogs? Because of the beagle's popularity, many irresponsible breeds are turning out dogs with problems. In particular, poorly bred beagles have a reputation for being almost impossible to house-train. As with any purebred dog -- but especially with a popular breed -- it's essential to get a beagle from an ethical breeder or rescue organization.

Forgetting that the beagle is first and foremost a hound can lead to some serious misunderstandings, especially when the dog is off-leash. Beagles hear the call of the wild -- or maybe smell the scent of the wild would be a more accurate way to put it -- and when they do, it's not likely they'll listen to you calling.

Obedience training is not just a good idea with your beagle, it's a must. Few beagles can be trusted off-leash in an unfenced area, and most beagles are infamous escape artists. For those reasons, they are not suited to be outdoor or backyard dogs. They need to live as a member of the family, in the house. -- Christie Keith, doghobbyist.com

THE SCOOP

Amazons, grays best avian talkers

The only way to be absolutely sure to have a talking parrot is to adopt an adult who's already talking. If you want to start with a hand-raised, weaned baby from a reputable breeder or bird shop, though, you can choose from among a few species known for their gift of gab.

The best talkers are generally yellow-naped or double-yellow-headed Amazons, and the Congo and Timneh varieties of African gray parrots. Most birds of these species will learn quickly and will develop a large vocabulary of words and phrases if paired with owners who take the time to work with them.

Other large parrots such as cockatoos and macaws can be good talkers, too, but many of the smaller species just aren't that interested in learning to talk. The exception: the tiny budgie, proven capable of developing a vocabulary of more than 300 words and phrases.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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