Time magazine called The Bark "the New Yorker for dog lovers." Oprah calls it a "must read." Famous writers and illustrators are delighted to be asked for contributions, and a Hollywood production company wants to use the magazine's signature "Dog Is My Co-Pilot" bumper sticker on the set of an upcoming blockbuster.

"We hope the scene doesn't get cut," says The Bark's Claudia Kawczynska, eyebrows raised in "Can you believe this is happening to us?" fashion during a recent interview at the magazine's storefront office in Berkeley, Calif. Kawczynska is the magazine's co-founder and its editorial voice; her partner (and life partner) Cameron Woo has also been there from the first and is responsible for the magazine's lush, cutting-edge design.

Together, they produce an award-winning magazine that stands out in the pet category like a red-spotted Dalmatian at a dog show.

Dog lovers are still just beginning to take notice -- 75,000 loyal readers in an industry where circulations many times larger don't guarantee a magazine's survival. No matter: The Bark is thriving, with plans for expansion and a second book deal in the works.

"People were really interested in reading about dogs in a way that wasn't in print," says Kawczynska of the publication's founding in 1997. Its steady growth is in the hands of two people who are honest with their readers, are enthusiastic champions of good writing and design, and (no surprise here) are devoted lovers of all things canine.

Writing about dogs is nothing new, of course. Eugene O'Neill once wrote about the death of his dog in a heartbreakingly lovely piece that's often sent to anyone who has had to put down a beloved old dog. In the early decades of the last century, Albert Payson Terhune wrote book after book on his Sunnybank collies, so many stories that for a time he was the country's best-selling author, more so than his better-remembered friend Sinclair Lewis.

But by the time The Bark was whelped as a regional newsletter advocating areas for off-leash recreation, the market for dog lit was very small indeed. Mainstream pet publications were more interested in bland how-to, and the more literary of the general-circulation magazines that survived into the new century did little more than grudgingly toss dog lovers a bone now and then.

The homeless works that weren't getting published -- the short stories, the essays, the photographs, cartoons and illustrations -- have found their forever home in The Bark.

"A lot of people have stuff about dogs that didn't make it into print. We knew it was in their drawers, and we asked for it," says Woo, telling of the New Yorker cartoonist who when asked if he had any rejected dog cartoons sent over a stack for the couple to go through.

"We went to bookstores and looked on the jackets for pictures of writers we liked," says Kawczynska. "When we saw them pictured with a dog, we'd contact them to see if they had anything for us."

They surely did, with authors from Alice Walker to Erica Jong and more offering pieces for pages of The Bark. "Cameron and I scratched our heads and thought, 'We might have something here,'" says Kawczynska.

Advertisers were thinking so, too, especially after Woo and Kawczynska took a big leap of faith, leaving their jobs and converting the publication from newsletter to glossy magazine. Although The Bark is different from many magazines in that the content isn't designed to support -- or at least not detract from -- advertisers, some of the big names started sniffing around. The first was Saab, trying to reach dog lovers with a model equipped with dog-friendly options. Jeep was not far behind, along with anyone looking to tap into an affluent, dog-crazy demographic.

Along with some of the best writing around -- best-selling author Pam Houston has a piece in the current issue -- The Bark has expanded to include serious, cutting-edge reporting that can rarely be found elsewhere, on canine health, training, and on issues that recall those that got The Bark its start.

After all, it's still all about the dogs. "I hope my enthusiasm for the subject matter is reflected in the magazine," says Kawczynska.

"Our interest in doing the magazine certainly hasn't peaked," says Woo, in what has to be good news for anyone who loves dogs and good writing.

SIDEBAR

TO SUBSCRIBE

The regular price of a subscription to The Bark is $15 per year for five issues, but the magazine is currently running a holiday special -- $8 for additional subscriptions with the purchase of one at full price. To subscribe, call 1-877-227-5639, or go to the Web site, www.thebark.com. For $20, the magazine is also offering a year's subscription bundled with a paperback copy of The Bark's anthology, "Dog Is My Co-Pilot: Great Writers on the World's Oldest Friendship" (Crown).

Q&A

Wild wood makes for great perches

Q: I've read that the pine perches that come with a birdcage need to be replaced because they're dangerous. If that's true, what should I be using instead? -- R.Y., via e-mail

A: There's nothing inherently dangerous about the smooth pine dowels that come with most birdcages, but a more varied selection of perches is better for your bird's physical and mental health. Think variety -- rope, cement and wood perches should all find a place in your bird's cage. Natural wood perches, in particular, are wonderful because they feel good under your bird's feet and because they give him something to chew on.

Most fruit and nut trees (almond, apple, prune and all citrus) are fine to use, as are ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. If you can get your pruners on some manzanita, go for it. It's a hard wood that can stand up to a lot of abuse. Try grapevines, too. And leave the bark on for your bird to peel off. Not all wood is good, though: Treated or painted lumber should not go in your bird's cage.

Wild wood is probably best. Cut branches to a length to fit in your bird's cage. Scrub and clean them well with soap; then rinse and dry them in the sun. Check for insect egg pods: If you find them, just break them off and discard them before putting the branch in your pet's cage. (If you don't, you may find a zillion little buglets thinking it's spring in your home.)

The best perches are those that keep your bird busy destroying them. Think of perches as replaceable cage furnishings. Tearing them up is good for your bird, providing both exercise and entertainment.

Q: My ferret loves raisins. I've read that raisins aren't good for dogs, though, so I wonder if they're safe for my ferret. Do you know? -- P.E., via e-mail

A: It's true that raisins and grapes are a no-no for dogs. No one really knows exactly what the problem is. But starting in the late '80s, random reports of dogs dying after eating grapes or raisins became frequent enough that the Animal Poison Control Center put the fruits on its hazard list (www.aspca.org; click on Animal Poison Control Center). While I wouldn't panic over one or two raisins, any dog who nabs a large bunch of grapes or a container of raisins needs to see a veterinarian right away.

So where does this leave ferrets when it comes to raisins? Most ferrets love raisins, and giving them one or two raisins a day is probably fine. Don't give more than that, however.

That advice goes for all treats, by the way: A little goes a long way. Safe treats for ferrets include bits of lean, cooked meat or hard-boiled eggs, low-sugar cereals or cooked veggies. Commercial treats are probably fine, but again, don't go overboard.

Some foods ferrets may like -- but should not be allowed to eat -- include anything alcoholic or caffeinated, or with added salt or sugar. Chocolate is also not recommended, and the same goes for seeds and nuts. Some ferrets should not be given dairy products, since milk products will cause diarrhea in some of these animals.

One of the best ways to use treats is for trick-training, which helps to keep your ferret from being bored.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Site takes seriously reports of animal abuse

Research has long confirmed what law-enforcement has long known: There's a direct line from animal abuse to crimes against humans. That's why even people who don't care about animals should insist on heavy penalties for animal abuse by adults, and for prompt intervention when children abuse animals.

Pet-Abuse.com is an incredibly thorough Web site that's geared to get out the information on cases of animal abuse and why they're important. The nonprofit group behind the Web site tracks cases across the United States and Canada, and generates up-to-date graphics from its extensive databases showing who the most likely perpetrators are. The group also assists humane groups in making prosecutors and judges take animal abuse seriously.

The site is a no-nonsense primer on animal abuse, its origins and its outcomes. You'll find little in the way of gory pictures or overblown cases descriptions here, just a just-the-facts overview powerfully presented. -- G.S.

PET BUY

Toys let your cat play mean with dogs

As one might imagine, I do a lot of shopping for pet-related goods. Every now and then, I run into something so adorable it stops me in my tracks. Into this category fall hand-knitted, catnip-stuffed toys in the shape of popular dog breeds, available from the San Francisco-based pet boutique George (www.georgesf.com).

Not content to buy the same upscale pet gear everyone else has, the folks at George -- the store was named after the owners' fox terrier -- commission many of the products for sale in the two stores (the other is in Berkeley, Calif.) and on the Web. The beds, carriers, bowls and many of the toys are George-exclusive, all very nice, but the cat toys really stood out on a recent visit.

Choose a spaniel, a German shepherd, a poodle, terrier or dachshund, each $8. Just as cute and a little less expensive are the hand-knitted frogs and bugs, $6 each.

THE SCOOP

Tiny they may be, but toys they are not

With interest sparked by trend-setters like Paris Hilton, whose tiny Chihuahua is a constant companion, small dogs are on many people's must-have list these days. And that worries Darlene Arden, a certified animal behavior expert and author whose specialty is the health and behavior issues of the tiniest of dog breeds.

Arden is especially concerned about the trend toward ever-smaller dogs, whom she says are even more delicate and prone to health problems than their slightly larger relations.

"The smaller they are, the more health problems," says the author of the definitive work on small dogs, "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" ($18, Howell Book House). "Too often, these tiny dogs are bred with no consideration of health and temperament. I've known toys dogs that look cute but acted like Cujo.

"The especially small dogs shouldn't be bred. And when they turn up in litters, reputable breeders place them with people who understand the extra care and expense," she says, reeling off a list of health problems in the more popular of tiny breeds and mixes. And that doesn't even include the things that can happen to them strictly because they're so small -- everything from breaking bones by being dropped to being killed by larger dogs.

"They're so fragile," says Arden. "People have no idea. They lose body heat more quickly, and even their tiny organs can be a challenge for a veterinarian, as can be anesthesia. Everything that possibly can go wrong will with these dogs."

Their fragility makes small dogs especially inappropriate for families with young children. "People think because the dog is small the animal is "child-sized,'" she says. "They don't think that even a child is huge to a tiny dog. The dog can so easily be hurt, or may think he has to bite in self-defense."

Arden says far from being suitable for everyone, toy breeds are best in the homes of empty-nesters, especially those who understand the special needs of these small dogs.

"This trend of dog as fashion accessory is frightening to me," she says. "These are living, breathing, sentient beings -- not purses, rings or bracelets."

PET Rx

Toys can help keep perch potatoes active

Birds need exercise, too! From the smallest budgie to the largest macaw, parrots are highly intelligent, active birds who need to keep mentally and physically active to stay healthy. Birds do get fat: Amazons, especially, seem prone to becoming overweight perch potatoes. (Especially when allowed to eat an unhealthy diet of seeds.)

Anything a parrot can dig into, from a toy to a challenging healthy food that requires effort to eat, is good. One toy in particular is good for burning the calories consumed by a sedentary bird: the coiled-rope perch. This springy invention requires effort to stay on, and some birds become so enamored of it that they'll spend hours bouncing up and down.

An annual healthy-bird checkup is a must for your bird. That's a great time to discuss your bird's diet and make any necessary changes to eating or exercise routines.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When I first started writing about animal issues more than 20 years ago, I went to a conference for shelter workers put on by the Humane Society of the United States.

One of the seminars was on shelter housing for cats. While I have long ago forgotten the speaker's name and the name of her shelter, I have never forgotten my horror at the conditions she described as once being normal at her facility -- conditions she changed within days of her arrival.

When she took over management of her shelter, cats were housed together in a run at the end of a kennel row for dogs. The only special accommodation that had been made for them was to put a chain-link roof over the run to prevent escapes. All the cats were thrown into that same run, in full view of neighboring dogs. Every few days they'd all be killed, sooner if disease broke out.

Very few people came to adopt from this shelter, and when on rare occasion someone did, the adopter would point to the cat he or she wanted, and the animal would be snared like a wild animal and dragged out by the neck.

The lack of shock on the faces of shelter workers around me in that conference room told me that this horror chamber of a facility was not alone in its treatment of cats at that time.

Most shelters have come a long way since, and the trend these days is toward so-called "colony" housing, keeping small groups of cats in large, feline-friendly enclosures. Popular with human visitors and less stressful for resident felines, colony housing has caught on in both small community-based rescue groups and large urban shelter organizations.

"It's much more sociable for cats and the people who visit," says Melinie diLuck, founder of Happy Tails in Sacramento, Calif. The small non-profit opened up a storefront adoption facility in 2000, colony-style from the start. "People don't like seeing cats in cages. This way, they can see a cat's true personality."

The Hawaiian Humane Society, in Honolulu, has to be one of the pioneers in colony-style housing, which the organization put in place more than 30 years ago.

"We have four separate rooms in our Cat House," says Marty Hutchins, the society's animal-behavior program coordinator. "Three are colony rooms, and one has individual housing for 16 cats ... mostly for those who do not like other cats, are shy or need a more private space. Often after a few days of adjustment, our cats seem to enjoy being in our colony rooms."

The Denver Dumb Friends League is a more recent convert to colony housing -- the new cat rooms are about a year old, and the old individual cat spaces are still in use. The DDFL's president, Robert Rohde, is enthusiastic about the changes at his shelter.

"In my experience, over the past 31 years many positive changes have occurred in the way shelters care for cats. More effort has been placed on relieving stress on cats while they are in shelters," he says. "Happy, active cats are much more interesting to watch. You'll often see a patron outside the building flirting with a cat through the window."

A visit to the shelter verifies the claim -- the cats in Denver's colorful colony rooms are relaxed and comfortable, putting their best paws forward while hoping to be adopted. In this shelter as in others, colony rooms are harder than individual cages to manage when it comes to controlling the spread of disease from cat to cat and smoothing introductions between them, but they're clearly a success overall with cats and people alike.

On a recent afternoon in Denver, little girls flirted with playful kittens while a young woman considered an older cat who seemed to be considering her just as thoughtfully. The relaxed attitude of humans and cats made me think back to that conference all those years ago, and the stories of those poor cats whose last few days of life were spent in terror in a place that should have treated them with kindness.

Sometimes it seems we don't make much progress when it comes to the humane treatment of animals. But sometimes, it must be noted, we do.

Q&A

Milk is fine for some cats

Q: I was recently adopted by an older cat I've named Lee. She didn't have a collar or tag, and no one answered my "found cat" ad. But she is very affectionate and clearly was somebody's pet once. I give Lee the little bit of milk at the bottom of my cereal bowl. She loves it, and I thought it was OK for her. Cats love milk, right? But my friend says milk is bad for cats. Do I have to deny Lee her occasional milk treat? She's not going to like that! -- J.P., via e-mail

A: No adult cat needs milk to survive, and some cats, like some humans, cannot handle milk without ending up with diarrhea. For those cats who can handle milk and like it, it's a fine treat and good source of protein.

If Lee isn't experiencing any stomach distress, then it's perfectly safe to give her milk as a treat. Feel free to indulge her just as you have been.

Q: Would it be a good idea to get two puppies at once? I'm in and out a lot and worry about leaving a puppy alone. Would getting two at once help to ease the loneliness, or would it create problems? -- L.E., via e-mail

A: Most people haven't the time to raise one puppy right, and trying to raise two at once can be setup for disaster.

Two puppies who are raised together will often bond more tightly with each other than with the human members of the house, especially if the pups are from the same litter. Experienced show breeders, who often "grow out" a pair of promising puppies, often get around this problem by sending one of the youngsters to be raised by another breeder.

House-training can be a challenge with two puppies, because one may not get the concept as quickly as the other. Fresh messes from the one who's not getting it may prompt backsliding in the other pup. Obedience training and all-important socialization can also be hard, since you have to find the time to work with each puppy individually.

If you wish to have two dogs more or less instantly, I'd recommend adopting an adult dog and then a puppy. Give the adult dog a couple of months to settle before bringing in the pup. You'll still need to take time to work with both individually, but if you choose properly, the adult dog should slide easily into your life, giving you ample time to work with the puppy.

You should also consider adopting two adult dogs. Puppies are wonderful, but there's a lot to be said about skipping those crazy first months of their lives. For many families, an adult dog is flat-out a better match.

Q: Can you please explain how to put on a choke collar properly? I'm tired of seeing people walking their dogs with it on wrong. -- C.N., via e-mail

A: With the dog sitting on your left, make a downward-facing "P" out of the collar, with the base of the letter on your side. Then slip the collar over the dog's head. The moving end of the collar should go over the dog's neck, not under it. If it's put on incorrectly, the collar will not release easily when the leash is slackened.

The choke collar is one of the most difficult pieces of training equipment to use properly, which is why I have in recent years discouraged its use. Newer products such as head halters and no-pull harnesses are easier to use and provide control with less strain on the dog.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Are you a collie or a basset hound?

If you were a dog, would you be a clever, intense border collie? A laid-back basset hound? An energetic fox terrier or an elegant Afghan hound? If you've ever wondered -- or even if you haven't -- you'll surely get a smile out of the Gone 2 the Dogs Web site (www.gone2thedogs.com). Click on "What dog are you?" to play.

Answer a few questions, and the site will tell you what breed of dog you'd be. I came back as a large Munsterlander, which is not a kind of cheese but rather a German hunting dog that's a fair amount like an English setter. The result surprised me, because the first time I ever saw a Munsterlander in person was last spring at England's Cruft's dog show, when I fell utterly in love with the breed.

Could it be I was recognizing myself in a furry coat? The mystery remains.

PET TIP

Recycled covers for cat beds

Cats crave warmth, which is why they're wonderful bed companions on a cold night. But when you can't be there to provide snuggle-space, your cat will appreciate a soft bed to sleep on.

The Denver Dumb Friends League uses old toilet-seat covers to cushion cats waiting for adoption. The covers are the perfect size for most cats and provide a perfect option to throwing out old covers when they're worn or your décor changes. (If you have extras, check and see if your local shelter will welcome the donation.)

Since covering upholstery is one way to protect it from cat hair, you might put a seat cover or two in places your cat loves to nap, such as the couch or a favorite chair. Whatever hair ends up on the seat-cover won't get on your upholstery and will easily come out in the wash.

THE SCOOP

Shelter goes high-tech with pet selection

Most people have an idea what kind of pet they want before they head out with the intention of adoption. Problem is, many times they're not on the right track. They may have fallen in love with a large, active breed of dog when their lifestyle is more suitable to a mellow older cat. Or they may not even be aware of the charms of other pets, such as birds, reptiles or rabbits.

This lack of education leads to a lot of disappointment. The person who makes a bad match when it comes to choosing a pet is at high risk for giving up the animal later. And every time an animal comes in through the shelter door, there's less of a possibility for that animal to go out again with another family.

Shelters have long recognized that education is key to successful pet placements. And in Denver, the pioneering Denver Dumb Friends League has taken its already robust educational efforts in a decidedly high-tech direction.

As part of a larger renovation of the organization's main shelter, 13 interactive kiosks were installed at the beginning of 2004, offering more than 1,000 users a month the chance to learn about choosing the right pet and properly caring for a new companion. The kiosks are equipped with bright graphics, crisp writing and touch screens that allow pet-lovers to move through the information in a way that's both educational and entertaining.

"People like them," says Corey Price, the DDFL's manager of humane education, who wrote the text and oversaw the installation of the kiosks. "Playing with the interactives is fun, better than watching TV."

Price says the kiosks are aimed at an audience of 8-year-olds and up, and offer people another reason to come to the shelter.

"It's free to come down and learn about the animals, and we don't mind if they adopt," says Price.

BY THE NUMBERS

Don't forget shelter pets

Exact numbers are impossible to come by, since no one even knows how many shelters there are in the United States and Canada. But using a survey of 1,000 shelters in 1997 as a base, it's estimated that 9.7 million animals a year are euthanized in shelters. While some animals entering shelters are not considered to be adoptable, many would be wonderful companions if only given a chance.

More shelter stats:

-- In 1997, roughly 64 percent of the total number of animals entering shelters were euthanized.

-- 56 percent of dogs and 71 percent of cats entering animal shelters are euthanized.

-- 15 percent of dogs and 2 percent of cats entering animal shelters are reunited with their owners.

-- 25 percent of dogs and 24 percent of cats entering animal shelters are adopted.

Source: American Humane Association (www.americanhumane.org) and the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy (www.petpopulation.org).

PET Rx

Figuring out dog's age in "human years"

According to the American Animal Hospital Association, the first eight months of a dog's life equals 13 years in human terms -- birth to puberty, in other words. At a year, a dog's a teenager, equivalent to a 16-year-old human, with a little filling out still to do. After the age of 2, when a dog's about 21 in human terms, every dog year equals approximately five human ones.

These are ballpark estimates, however, because different dogs age at very different rates. Giant breeds such as Great Danes are senior citizens at 6; a Labrador may be considered old at 8. A little dog like the Pomeranian, however, could behave like a healthy adult into her teens.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

About once a month, I'll get a frantic e-mail from someone who's frustrated to the point of desperation. "Help!" the e-mail will scream. "I have a Jack Russell, and he digs, barks and chews when we're gone. He's too hyper! We can't take it anymore!"

Sometimes, it's all I can do not to write in return, "High energy? Digging? Barking? Chewing? Congratulations! You have an authentic Jack Russell terrier! What did you expect?"

What they expected, of course, was an adorable, low-key and well-mannered small dog, like Eddie on the TV show "Frasier," or Wishbone on the PBS children's series of the same name. What they don't know is that Moose, the dog who played Eddie, had a full-time trainer, or that the role of Wishbone was played by not one but a handful of well-trained dogs.

And what about their cute little hellion? Perfectly normal for any Jack Russell who isn't given the structure and the physical and mental exercise these hard-driving dogs need.

"I get those phone calls every day," says Margie Kauffman, past president of the Northern California breed club and current head of the group's rescue efforts. "They're mostly from folks who haven't done their homework and don't know of the breed's natural tendencies. The Jack Russell is a working terrier, with lots of energy and tenacity."

Kauffman's group (www.jackrussellrescue.com) re-homes about 150 dogs a year from an area that starts north of Fresno, Calif., and ends at the Oregon border. That number doesn't include those terriers who are placed or sold privately, or who are adopted out of shelters directly.

"These dogs are loving, loyal and very smart. But when they're bored, people say they're destructive," she says. "In my own pack, they're not bored. They get lots of exercise, and they're engaged all the time."

Lyndy Pickens, who has two of the dogs (which the American Kennel Club calls Parson Russells, not Jack Russells), got her first Jack Russell at the age of 3 and vows to have one as long as she lives.

"They're thugs in clown's clothing," she says, looking lovingly at her two Jacks, Shiner and Louie, their heads underground as they dig a trench on her property in the foothills above Sacramento. "This is not a dog bred to ask permission."

Indeed, knowing what the Jack Russell was bred for is essential to understanding how to keep both a terrier and your sanity, says Kauffman, who has seen literally thousands of Jack Russells over the years. ("My daughter calls me the patron saint of Jack Russells," she says, laughing.)

"If you look at any dog breed, they were bred for a specific purpose," she says. "Jack Russells weren't bred to be pets. They were bred to work: 150 years ago, the dog would have been everyone's household vacuum. Bugs, mice, rats -- people didn't want pests in the house, the barn or the chicken coop. The dogs had to work for their keep, killing the pests. They're not like a cat, who will eat and then not hunt again. The Jack Russell will keep killing.

"Jack Russells today are hard-working, tenacious little dogs as a result."

And not, please note, one of the better breeds to keep if you have rodents as pets.

So why are these dogs so popular? When living with people who understand them, who keep their minds and bodies exercised, who train them and work them constantly, who set limits and gently but firmly enforce them, the Jack Russell is an outstanding companion.

"I love how joyous they are," says Pickens.

"It's interesting to live with them," says Kaufman. "They're bright."

For people who understand the breed and are willing to work to keep a working terrier happy, there's no better dog in the world. For anyone else, though, if you're looking for a lazy dog, or an easygoing dog for beginners, you're better off without this high-energy breed.

In other words: If you don't know Jack, you'd better not get one until you do. And even then: Are you up the challenge? Be sure beforehand, so your Jack Russell won't be another one looking for a new home.

Q&A

Rabbits perfect for condo life

Q: We live in a condo and have a bunny. Our association rules do not allow bunnies, however. Do you have information I can use to help change the rules? -- B.A., Honolulu

A: Your condo association is probably still thinking of rabbits as "livestock," not pets. In fact, I can think of few animals better suited for condo or apartment living than a neutered house rabbit.

So why should rabbits be allowed?

They're quiet. Does your association allow birds? I'll guarantee you a rabbit is mute compared to the noisiness of many parrots. In fact, a rabbit is about as quiet a pet as you can have. The loudest mine gets is when he's thumping his leg to demand breakfast, or hitting the ground after a joyous leap into the air. If you have carpeting, run-around noise will be muffled.

They're neat. A daily brushing will catch loose hair, and a vacuum will pick up scattered hay, food pellets or the occasional stray feces (its pea-sized, dry and round) that doesn't make it into the litter box.

They're small. Even the biggest rabbits aren't much larger than a cat, and dwarf rabbits are considerably smaller.

The one downside I can think of is that rabbits will engage in destructive chewing if left to choose their own recreation. Even this problem is easily solved by "rabbit-proofing" the living area -- blocking off attractive chewing areas, putting cords into protective covers -- and offering safe chewing alternatives.

Q: I buy clumping litter for our bunnies, and it hasn't seemed to affect either of them, one of whom we've had for more than four years. You suggest not only paper litter, but also covering the litter with hay. Our bunnies eat every morsel of hay that goes into their hutch, and I have a vision of them eating everything in the litter box, which sort of nullifies the point of having a box. Should we still switch to paper and hay? My daughter and I love your rabbit's name by the way. -- F.G., Dayton, Ohio

A: I can't take credit for naming my rabbit Turbo. The idea came from my friend Ann Cony, who notes that her last name is Irish for "rabbit." I know a good name when I hear one, so my adopted rabbit, previously named Flakes for a skin disease he had when he was taken to the shelter, was renamed with a more positive spin.

Yes, switch to paper and hay. Clumping litter puts your rabbits at risk of impaction. As for the hay, your rabbits know what's edible and what's not, and will eat the hay, not the litter. Putting a layer of high-quality hay -- not straw -- on top of the pelleted paper litter encourages rabbits to use the box, since they tend to pass feces while eating. (I think of eating hay while "on the john" as the rabbit equivalent of reading while in the bathroom.)

Like many animals, rabbits naturally want to keep their area clean and will use a litter box if it's attractive and accessible. Make sure the box is large enough to be comfortable, and the sides are low enough for easy entries. Keep it filled with clean pellets and fresh hay, supplemented by a special food treat like an apple slice, and your rabbits will use it likely as not. Dropping feces while away from the box is normal for some rabbits, but fortunately clean-up is easy with a hand vac. Remember, too, that if your rabbits are not neutered, they will be very difficult to house-train.

The best information on rabbit care can be found on the House Rabbit Society's Web site (www.rabbit.org) and on VeterinaryPartner.com (click on Small Mammals, then on the Small Mammal Health Series by Dr. Susan Brown).

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Clever budgies deserve respect in pet world

Let's start by getting the name right: Budgerigar, budgie for short. Not parakeet. All budgies are parakeets, but not all parakeets are budgies. And that's not the only thing many people get wrong about these clever little birds. Far from just being a "starter pet" for children, budgies can fit into almost any household situation. They're small enough that their cages don't take too much space, and they're quiet enough to keep the neighbors from complaining.

Some budgies are also outstanding talkers, learning to mimic hundreds of sounds, words and phrases.

The Me & My Budgie Web site (www.budgies.org) is a good place to go to start increasing your appreciation of these great little pets. The site offers good advice on care and feeding, as well pictures and stories submitted by budgie fans. There's even an arts and crafts section, with instructions on how to make safe, inexpensive toys for your bird.

PET PLATES

Pet plates story draws reader response

The recent article on pet-themed vanity license plates continues to draw a lot of response. I'll post your pictures and the stories behind them every now and them. Some recent submissions:

(Heart) DOGGEZ: We are big dog lovers in our family, and we experienced the same disappointments you did when you found all your ideas were taken. My clever daughter came up with this plate, which fortunately was available. I think it is easy to understand. -- N.G.

DOGLOVE: My license plate doesn't refer to my love of dogs. Rather, it refers to the type of love dogs offer us -- unconditional and pure. Surely dogs teach us a lesson about love, as they are love's incarnation. (Is it mere coincidence that "dog" is "God" spelled backward?) -- G.C.

AWCUL8TR: I am a dog trainer, and I have an intense love for my Australian shepherd, Nelly. My daughter came up with the plate, which stands for Aussie You Later. I haven't met anyone yet who can figure it out. It really doesn't matter to me, because I just absolutely love my Aussie. -- B.J.

(HEART)4RATS: Since you have rats, I thought you might be interested in my license plate, which translates to "love for rats." I got this plate on the first try, which I guess says something about how popular rats are compared to dogs. -- S.L.

THE SCOOP

Carrier an investment in feline safety

Every cat needs his own carrier. A sturdy carrier makes going to the veterinarian's, traveling or moving safer and easier for your pet and offers you some options for housing your cat in an emergency, such as during an natural disaster.

Ditch the cardboard carrier your cat came home from the shelter in, since it's not really designed for long-term use. (Not to mention, if the cardboard gets wet, you'll have a loose cat on your hands.) Look for a carrier that provides your cat with a feeling of security and the ability to look at the world outside his cozy carrier.

The carriers I like to recommend are made of two pieces of high-impact plastic with vents along the top (the top and bottom held together by bolts) and with a grid door of stainless steel. Some models have a door on the top of the carrier as well as the front side, making getting a cat in and out even easier.

While a plastic carrier is probably your best bet for trips to the veterinarian, if you plan to take your cat into the cabin of a plane, you're better off with a soft-sided carrier. It's easier to fit under the seat and more comfortable to carry, since you can sling the bag over your shoulder.

Don't choose a carrier that's made entirely of wire, since the open design will make your cat feel more vulnerable, especially in a veterinary waiting room full of dogs.

Hard plastic carriers cost around $25 new, with soft-sided models going for about twice that. If you check classified ads or frequent tag sales, you can probably pick up a hard-sided carrier for next to nothing. Clean it up and it'll last you a lifetime. (I have plastic carriers that are more than 20 years old.)

A high-quality cat carrier is an inexpensive investment in your cat's safety. Don't put off buying this essential piece of cat gear.

PET Rx

No crash diets for fat cats

Crash diets are bad for cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. An animal doesn't put on weight overnight and shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

Your veterinarian may suggest a specific food, or may just advise a small decrease in daily rations coupled with a slow and gradual increase in daily activity.

It's true you can't take long walks with most cats, and that most cats don't enjoy swimming or fetch the way many dogs do, but there are ways to make your cat more active. Key among them: Games with toys such as cat "fishing poles" that tap into your pet's hunting instincts.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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