About once a month, I'll get a frantic e-mail from someone who's frustrated to the point of desperation. "Help!" the e-mail will scream. "I have a Jack Russell, and he digs, barks and chews when we're gone. He's too hyper! We can't take it anymore!"

Sometimes, it's all I can do not to write in return, "High energy? Digging? Barking? Chewing? Congratulations! You have an authentic Jack Russell terrier! What did you expect?"

What they expected, of course, was an adorable, low-key and well-mannered small dog, like Eddie on the TV show "Frasier," or Wishbone on the PBS children's series of the same name. What they don't know is that Moose, the dog who played Eddie, had a full-time trainer, or that the role of Wishbone was played by not one but a handful of well-trained dogs.

And what about their cute little hellion? Perfectly normal for any Jack Russell who isn't given the structure and the physical and mental exercise these hard-driving dogs need.

"I get those phone calls every day," says Margie Kauffman, past president of the Northern California breed club and current head of the group's rescue efforts. "They're mostly from folks who haven't done their homework and don't know of the breed's natural tendencies. The Jack Russell is a working terrier, with lots of energy and tenacity."

Kauffman's group (www.jackrussellrescue.com) re-homes about 150 dogs a year from an area that starts north of Fresno, Calif., and ends at the Oregon border. That number doesn't include those terriers who are placed or sold privately, or who are adopted out of shelters directly.

"These dogs are loving, loyal and very smart. But when they're bored, people say they're destructive," she says. "In my own pack, they're not bored. They get lots of exercise, and they're engaged all the time."

Lyndy Pickens, who has two of the dogs (which the American Kennel Club calls Parson Russells, not Jack Russells), got her first Jack Russell at the age of 3 and vows to have one as long as she lives.

"They're thugs in clown's clothing," she says, looking lovingly at her two Jacks, Shiner and Louie, their heads underground as they dig a trench on her property in the foothills above Sacramento. "This is not a dog bred to ask permission."

Indeed, knowing what the Jack Russell was bred for is essential to understanding how to keep both a terrier and your sanity, says Kauffman, who has seen literally thousands of Jack Russells over the years. ("My daughter calls me the patron saint of Jack Russells," she says, laughing.)

"If you look at any dog breed, they were bred for a specific purpose," she says. "Jack Russells weren't bred to be pets. They were bred to work: 150 years ago, the dog would have been everyone's household vacuum. Bugs, mice, rats -- people didn't want pests in the house, the barn or the chicken coop. The dogs had to work for their keep, killing the pests. They're not like a cat, who will eat and then not hunt again. The Jack Russell will keep killing.

"Jack Russells today are hard-working, tenacious little dogs as a result."

And not, please note, one of the better breeds to keep if you have rodents as pets.

So why are these dogs so popular? When living with people who understand them, who keep their minds and bodies exercised, who train them and work them constantly, who set limits and gently but firmly enforce them, the Jack Russell is an outstanding companion.

"I love how joyous they are," says Pickens.

"It's interesting to live with them," says Kaufman. "They're bright."

For people who understand the breed and are willing to work to keep a working terrier happy, there's no better dog in the world. For anyone else, though, if you're looking for a lazy dog, or an easygoing dog for beginners, you're better off without this high-energy breed.

In other words: If you don't know Jack, you'd better not get one until you do. And even then: Are you up the challenge? Be sure beforehand, so your Jack Russell won't be another one looking for a new home.

Q&A

Rabbits perfect for condo life

Q: We live in a condo and have a bunny. Our association rules do not allow bunnies, however. Do you have information I can use to help change the rules? -- B.A., Honolulu

A: Your condo association is probably still thinking of rabbits as "livestock," not pets. In fact, I can think of few animals better suited for condo or apartment living than a neutered house rabbit.

So why should rabbits be allowed?

They're quiet. Does your association allow birds? I'll guarantee you a rabbit is mute compared to the noisiness of many parrots. In fact, a rabbit is about as quiet a pet as you can have. The loudest mine gets is when he's thumping his leg to demand breakfast, or hitting the ground after a joyous leap into the air. If you have carpeting, run-around noise will be muffled.

They're neat. A daily brushing will catch loose hair, and a vacuum will pick up scattered hay, food pellets or the occasional stray feces (its pea-sized, dry and round) that doesn't make it into the litter box.

They're small. Even the biggest rabbits aren't much larger than a cat, and dwarf rabbits are considerably smaller.

The one downside I can think of is that rabbits will engage in destructive chewing if left to choose their own recreation. Even this problem is easily solved by "rabbit-proofing" the living area -- blocking off attractive chewing areas, putting cords into protective covers -- and offering safe chewing alternatives.

Q: I buy clumping litter for our bunnies, and it hasn't seemed to affect either of them, one of whom we've had for more than four years. You suggest not only paper litter, but also covering the litter with hay. Our bunnies eat every morsel of hay that goes into their hutch, and I have a vision of them eating everything in the litter box, which sort of nullifies the point of having a box. Should we still switch to paper and hay? My daughter and I love your rabbit's name by the way. -- F.G., Dayton, Ohio

A: I can't take credit for naming my rabbit Turbo. The idea came from my friend Ann Cony, who notes that her last name is Irish for "rabbit." I know a good name when I hear one, so my adopted rabbit, previously named Flakes for a skin disease he had when he was taken to the shelter, was renamed with a more positive spin.

Yes, switch to paper and hay. Clumping litter puts your rabbits at risk of impaction. As for the hay, your rabbits know what's edible and what's not, and will eat the hay, not the litter. Putting a layer of high-quality hay -- not straw -- on top of the pelleted paper litter encourages rabbits to use the box, since they tend to pass feces while eating. (I think of eating hay while "on the john" as the rabbit equivalent of reading while in the bathroom.)

Like many animals, rabbits naturally want to keep their area clean and will use a litter box if it's attractive and accessible. Make sure the box is large enough to be comfortable, and the sides are low enough for easy entries. Keep it filled with clean pellets and fresh hay, supplemented by a special food treat like an apple slice, and your rabbits will use it likely as not. Dropping feces while away from the box is normal for some rabbits, but fortunately clean-up is easy with a hand vac. Remember, too, that if your rabbits are not neutered, they will be very difficult to house-train.

The best information on rabbit care can be found on the House Rabbit Society's Web site (www.rabbit.org) and on VeterinaryPartner.com (click on Small Mammals, then on the Small Mammal Health Series by Dr. Susan Brown).

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Clever budgies deserve respect in pet world

Let's start by getting the name right: Budgerigar, budgie for short. Not parakeet. All budgies are parakeets, but not all parakeets are budgies. And that's not the only thing many people get wrong about these clever little birds. Far from just being a "starter pet" for children, budgies can fit into almost any household situation. They're small enough that their cages don't take too much space, and they're quiet enough to keep the neighbors from complaining.

Some budgies are also outstanding talkers, learning to mimic hundreds of sounds, words and phrases.

The Me & My Budgie Web site (www.budgies.org) is a good place to go to start increasing your appreciation of these great little pets. The site offers good advice on care and feeding, as well pictures and stories submitted by budgie fans. There's even an arts and crafts section, with instructions on how to make safe, inexpensive toys for your bird.

PET PLATES

Pet plates story draws reader response

The recent article on pet-themed vanity license plates continues to draw a lot of response. I'll post your pictures and the stories behind them every now and them. Some recent submissions:

(Heart) DOGGEZ: We are big dog lovers in our family, and we experienced the same disappointments you did when you found all your ideas were taken. My clever daughter came up with this plate, which fortunately was available. I think it is easy to understand. -- N.G.

DOGLOVE: My license plate doesn't refer to my love of dogs. Rather, it refers to the type of love dogs offer us -- unconditional and pure. Surely dogs teach us a lesson about love, as they are love's incarnation. (Is it mere coincidence that "dog" is "God" spelled backward?) -- G.C.

AWCUL8TR: I am a dog trainer, and I have an intense love for my Australian shepherd, Nelly. My daughter came up with the plate, which stands for Aussie You Later. I haven't met anyone yet who can figure it out. It really doesn't matter to me, because I just absolutely love my Aussie. -- B.J.

(HEART)4RATS: Since you have rats, I thought you might be interested in my license plate, which translates to "love for rats." I got this plate on the first try, which I guess says something about how popular rats are compared to dogs. -- S.L.

THE SCOOP

Carrier an investment in feline safety

Every cat needs his own carrier. A sturdy carrier makes going to the veterinarian's, traveling or moving safer and easier for your pet and offers you some options for housing your cat in an emergency, such as during an natural disaster.

Ditch the cardboard carrier your cat came home from the shelter in, since it's not really designed for long-term use. (Not to mention, if the cardboard gets wet, you'll have a loose cat on your hands.) Look for a carrier that provides your cat with a feeling of security and the ability to look at the world outside his cozy carrier.

The carriers I like to recommend are made of two pieces of high-impact plastic with vents along the top (the top and bottom held together by bolts) and with a grid door of stainless steel. Some models have a door on the top of the carrier as well as the front side, making getting a cat in and out even easier.

While a plastic carrier is probably your best bet for trips to the veterinarian, if you plan to take your cat into the cabin of a plane, you're better off with a soft-sided carrier. It's easier to fit under the seat and more comfortable to carry, since you can sling the bag over your shoulder.

Don't choose a carrier that's made entirely of wire, since the open design will make your cat feel more vulnerable, especially in a veterinary waiting room full of dogs.

Hard plastic carriers cost around $25 new, with soft-sided models going for about twice that. If you check classified ads or frequent tag sales, you can probably pick up a hard-sided carrier for next to nothing. Clean it up and it'll last you a lifetime. (I have plastic carriers that are more than 20 years old.)

A high-quality cat carrier is an inexpensive investment in your cat's safety. Don't put off buying this essential piece of cat gear.

PET Rx

No crash diets for fat cats

Crash diets are bad for cats, who can develop a fatal liver problem if forced to reduce too quickly. An animal doesn't put on weight overnight and shouldn't be forced to change course any more rapidly. What you'll need to do is change your pet's eating and exercise habits gradually.

Your veterinarian may suggest a specific food, or may just advise a small decrease in daily rations coupled with a slow and gradual increase in daily activity.

It's true you can't take long walks with most cats, and that most cats don't enjoy swimming or fetch the way many dogs do, but there are ways to make your cat more active. Key among them: Games with toys such as cat "fishing poles" that tap into your pet's hunting instincts.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Thanksgiving is at hand, and the rest of the holiday season looms ahead. It's a busy time, but you need to make sure in the whirl of activities that you aren't ignoring any danger to your pets.

Every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. The bad news is that many pets will end up at the veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards.

-- Feeding problems. Foods too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet's not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.

What to avoid? Anything you wouldn't eat your pet should avoid, too. While a little bit of meat -- beef or poultry -- won't hurt and would be appreciated, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors fat.

-- Foreign-body ingestion. Cooked poultry bones may seem like the perfect gift for the pet who has everything, but do him a favor and save them for the soup. (Low-sodium poultry broth is a wonderful treat poured over your pet's regular food.) Even the largest turkey bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. Should one pierce through the lining, the result can be deadly peritonitis.

While cooked poultry bones are out, some raw beef bones can be safely substituted. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with plenty of yummy, messy fun. Supervise your dog's chewing, and throw bones out after a few hours of attention or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.

-- Dangerous decorations: The Christmas tree is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in its branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree -- why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house?

The best way keep your pets out of tree trouble is by making the tree off-limits unless you're there to supervise. Put the tree in a room with a door you can close is probably the easiest solution.

-- Poisonings. Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) And before you share your holiday candy with your pet, be aware that chocolate is toxic to dogs and may be deadly to the little dog who gets a good-sized piece. Again, the best cure is prevention: Keep all dangerous plants out of the reach of your pets, and make the candy dish available to people only.

SIDEBAR

Emergency!

Do you know where to take your pet in a medical emergency? The time to find out is now, before you need help.

Start with your regular veterinary hospital and find out what arrangements exist for emergency care outside of normal business hours. Some practices are open 24 hours a day, while others maintain an on-call veterinarian after hours. If there's an emergency practice in your area, your own veterinary clinic may choose to refer after-hours care instead of offering it themselves.

If you'll be heading to an emergency practice, be sure you know where the clinic is located and how to get there. And keep the practice's phone number in a place where you can find it right away.

Q&A

Leg-lifting retriever wearing out his welcome

Q: Our 18-month-old male Labrador lifts his leg on the corner of the living-room couch. He does not go anywhere else in the house. Any suggestions? -- C.H., via e-mail

A: First, is your dog neutered? Male dogs live to mark territory, but neutering cuts down on this unpleasant, hormone-driven behavior. It also makes the animal a safer, happier pet.

Second, clean up the area where the dog is marking, using enzymatic cleaners designed for pet messes. (Other kinds of cleaners do not eliminate the odor, and some, like ammonia, even make the problem worse.) A thorough cleaning is essential, since any remnant of past mistakes will emit an odor that will attract the dog to refresh his mark. What you cannot clean, you must replace.

Finally, block off the area from the dog while he's being retrained. Take the dog outside and praise him for marking in the right spot. In the house, keep him on leash for the next few weeks so he never gets the opportunity to make the wrong decision.

If you catch him in the act of lifting his leg indoors, clap your hands to distract him and stop the behavior. Then take him outside to finish the job, praising him for getting it right. Punishment is never necessary and is flat-out useless if done after the fact.

After a few weeks, if you don't think you're getting through to your dog, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. These are veterinarians with additional training in resolving behavior problems in animals, and they combine a proven scientific approach with medications that will help in the retraining period.

Q: My 10-year-old daughter begged and begged for a parakeet, and her father (my ex) bought her one. Of course, her father travels too much to keep the bird in his apartment, so it is in my house. (No, of course he didn't ask me before he bought the bird.)

The reason I didn't want a bird is that I knew my daughter would lose interest. To her credit, she does keep her pet fed and watered and keeps the cage relatively clean. But other than that, the bird is mostly ignored.

While most of my annoyance is directed at her father, I do feel sad for the bird. I think I should push my daughter to let me find it a new home. What do you think? -- F.G., via e-mail

A: Too many children's pets end up like this bird, ignored by the children who once wanted them. (At least this bird is well-cared-for, which isn't always the case in such situations.) What a shame for any budgie to be underappreciated, for a well-socialized budgie is a marvelous pet, sweet and affectionate. Many are great talkers, too.

It can be very difficult to find decent homes for unwanted pets, especially small ones. Instead, I wonder if it would be possible to work with your daughter on realizing the full potential of her little bird. Could you encourage her to take out books from the library on parrots and work with her pet? You should easily be able to find information in the library or on the Internet on hand-taming this bird and maybe teaching a few words as well.

The bird could probably also use some environment enrichment: a larger cage, toys and an interesting variety of food. It would also help to place the cage in a comfortable spot where the bird can see the world go by through the window.

With a better setup and some attention from you and your daughter, this little bird can have a happy life and be an enjoyable companion for your daughter. As for you and your ex, I have to say I'm not qualified to comment.

Q: Why is it no longer considered sound advice to let a dog have one litter before being spayed? -- S.H., via e-mail

A: Animals do not need to be bred once for any reason, and there are many good reasons for them to be neutered before reaching sexual maturity. Of course, preventing litters helps with the pet overpopulation problem, but neutering helps each individual animal by eliminating or reducing the risks of some cancers, and preventing or reducing some behavior problems.

In short: A neutered pet is a better pet, and the sooner the deed is done, the better.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

A club for those who love gerbils

Business took me to Denver recently, where I got to spend a few hours at one of the best humane organizations in the country, the Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org). While at the DDFL, I was interest in seeing some gerbils in the adoption area. You see, in my home state of California, I never get a chance to see these engaging rodents, because gerbils are on the state's list of forbidden pets, along with ferrets and Quaker parakeets.

I watched the gerbils at the shelter for a little while and left hoping these healthy, happy pets would find good new homes soon.

For those who have gerbils or are interested in finding out more, the Web site of the American Gerbil Society (www.agsgerbils.org) is the place to go. The site has good information on setting up proper housing, understanding normal behavior and providing good care for these pets.

The site also offers a free care brochure for pet stores than can downloaded and printed for giving to new gerbil owners.

PET TIP

Apple slices freshen dog breath

One of the distressing things about living with a dog is dealing with the resulting bad breath that comes with the variety of foul objects dogs believe are delightful to consume. It seems as if anything is fair game, from rotting fruit under trees to the contents of litter boxes. Ugh!

While chronic bad breath is often a sign of diseased teeth or gums or other health problems that need to be addressed by your veterinarian as soon as possible, a temporary case of doggy breath resulting from bad food choice can be cured quickly with apple slices.

Many if not most dogs love apples, and a few slices is usually all it takes to clean smelly residue from the mouth and give your pet fresh breath again. Try it!

THE SCOOP

Christmas puppy not the best of ideas

No matter how much your children want one, the holidays are just about the worst time possible for most families to get a dog.

Christmas puppies are often a parent's headache by February, when the animals are still not house-trained, the kids are tired of the responsibilities involved in caring for a pet, and it's still too cold and dark outside for dog-training after work and school. Too often, these animals are a shelter's problem by summer, when their cuteness is long gone and their untrained boisterousness has lost its charm.

Despite the warnings of those in the know, every year parents give in to the begging of their children and pop for a puppy. The attraction is understandable: Who doesn't love a puppy, and who wouldn't want to delight a child? But there are reasons why shelters, rescue groups and responsible breeders are uniform in their advice to think twice about a Christmas puppy.

Puppies are not toys. They are living, breathing beings who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays, that stressful season of socializing and shopping? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get house-training started right?

Dogs who grow up unhouse-trained, unmannered and unsocialized too often never get a chance to grow up much at all. From summer to fall, I get dozens and dozens of letters from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppy. Some people work with the dogs, but many just dump them. Sad for the families; tragic for the dogs.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. But Christmas is not the best time to launch such a promising relationship. Somebody has to be the grown-up here, and if you're the parent, it should be you. Wait until late spring or early summer to find the perfect pup and get your pet off to a great start.

PET Rx

Get in-the-know on poison risks

If you're not sure about what can be toxic to your pets, you might want to review the information on the Web site of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (www.aspca.org/apcc).

The ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center is where veterinarians call when they need quick answers for patients who've been poisoned, and the information provided to the general public on toxic plants and products is the best you'll find anywhere.

It's also a good place to check out the rumors that pop up on the Internet regarding various products. The APCC is prompt about investigating such dire warnings, and posting on the Web site its expert opinion on whether or not the concerns are justified.

Highly recommended: Order a free magnet from the ASPCA with the center's toll-free phone number. You can fill out the form online and expect your free magnet in six to eight weeks.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Can indoor cats really be happy? Cat lovers can -- and do -- maintain vehemently opposed opinions on this issue. But you can't disagree with the fact that the free-roaming life can be dangerous for a cat.

My friends who let their cats roam free have had their pets run over by cars (too many times to count), pulled apart by dogs (once), by coyotes (twice) and poisoned (a half-dozen times, most times accidentally but at least once suspiciously). And those are just the deaths they know about. Mostly, my friends' cats just disappear, with sad and frequent regularity.

Such tragedies don't happen to indoor cats, who are statistically likely to outlive free-roaming cats by a about a decade. Compared to an existence filled with cars, coyotes, traps, poisons and cat-hating neighbors, the life of an indoor cat is relatively risk-free.

Still, keeping a cat inside is more difficult, both in terms of the time spent maintaining the animal, and the effort and imagination required to keep the animal mentally and physically happy. But I've seen enough indoor cats to know that they seem perfectly content, especially if they've never been allowed to roam.

Since you've taken away a large part of the cat's natural world when you keep them inside, you need to put in "environmental enrichments" to make up for the loss. If you're going to have an indoor cat, you need to think about ways to make your home more entertaining to your cat, engaging as many senses as possible.

Your first investment should be a cat tree, a place for your pet to scratch, climb, perch and generally feel superior to the beings below. Cats love to scratch -- it keeps their claws sharp, gives them a good stretch and allows them to mark their territory with scent. With patience, most cats can be trained to use a cat tree or post instead of furniture.

Next up: toys. You'll need an interactive toy you can use to play with your cat, such as a "fishing" pole. Add some toys for batting around, such as small stuffed animals or balls with bells in them. You don't even need to spend money: Cats can be kept entertained with empty boxes or shopping bags, corks from wine bottles or the tops of milk containers.

Don't forget to jazz up the scent of toys with catnip or valeria, both of which you can grow yourself, so you'll always have a fresh supply. And while you're planting, be sure to keep fresh grasses growing for your cat's nibbling pleasure.

You can also work on ways to give your cat safe access to the outdoors, such as with a cat door into a screened-in porch. You can also buy kits for portable outdoor pens, completed with tunnels for connecting to the house. I know of several people who have put together some grand outdoor spaces, including a two-story enclosure clinging to the side of the house with areas for climbing, sunbathing and hiding. These needn't be expensive, especially if you're a capable do-it-yourselfer.

Yes, it's hard to convert a free-roaming cat to a life indoors. If your cat is used to coming and going when he pleases, conversion is best done when you move, rather than suddenly restricting your cat's territory -- a change no self-respecting cat will quietly accept. But if you're patient and firm, even the most stubborn of cats will eventually adapt.

When my friends tell me they simply cannot keep their cats inside, I say this: The next time one of your free-roaming cats disappears, promise me that the next one will be kept safe inside. Just try it, and see how it works.

Whatever a cat loses by not roaming free he'll gain from the pleasures you can pack in your home. And he'll really benefit from the long, healthy life enjoyed by so many indoor cats.

BARK BACK: Do you have suggestions for making life better for your indoor cat? Let me know! If you have a digital image (jpeg, please) of your pet, send that along as well, to petconnection@gmail.com.

Q&A

How to know: Is it time to let go?

Q: How can I tell if my dog is unhappy, in pain, or simply has spent his allotted time and is ready for some help to the other side?

I realize that my dog is old at 11, especially for an English bulldog. He recently has been seen by the veterinarian, but the results were confusing and not at all helpful. He has eye problems, ear problems, skin problems, breathing problems and arthritis, but he has always these problems, to some degree.

He has a naturally sad-looking face, and all his life he has never complained of pain even when it was warranted. I worry that I'm being selfish out of pure love and am keeping him going beyond his time.

He currently is on Rimadyl and Cephalexin, but I'm not sure if I should continue making him take them. Without them, he is miserable (a completely different dog). I wonder if I'm just prolonging the inevitable by covering it up with medication.

Essentially he is a sweet and loving dog, but it drives me crazy thinking the medicine is uncalled-for. Any advice is greatly appreciated, as I love my dog. He is my whole world. -- C.K., via e-mail

A: Yours is the hardest decision any of us will make about our animal companions. And before I give you any advice, let me say how very sorry I am that you're wrestling with this now.

That said, I think you're not at the ultimate decision point yet. Your dog sounds about normal for a senior pet, with mostly good days and a few not-so-good. His medications are maintaining his quality of life, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that.

Rimadyl and other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (veterinarians call them NSAIDs) can dramatically improve the quality of life for arthritic pets, as long as precautions are taken to ensure the drugs are appropriate for an individual animal and will not cause a bigger problem than they're trying to treat. (Screening for certain health problems before some of these medications are prescribed is essential, as is monitoring once the animal is taking them. Your veterinarian will have more information, so ask!)

My Sheltie Andy lived happily on NSAIDs -- Rimadyl, specifically -- for the last four years of his life. I didn't consider it "covering up" his symptoms, but rather buying him a few more years of good quality time.

I have been where you are more times than I care to think about, and I've always felt that when you know an animal, you just somehow feel it deep in your heart when it's time. The "symptoms" include a lack of interest in eating, even if special foods are offered, and the glazed expression and panting that goes with chronic pain. But there's also something intangible, a sense that the animal is ready to go and is asking to be set free.

I have always preferred to be three days early rather than one hour late in making these decisions. But I have also made good use of both traditional pain medications and alternative treatments like acupuncture to maintain a high quality of life for as long as possible. The goodbyes are always heartbreaking, but at least I am left with the knowledge that I did the very best I could in a world where no one ever knows for sure if the timing was absolutely right.

Please know that almost every school or college of veterinary medicine now offers a pet-loss support service, staffed by trained veterinary student volunteers. The University of California-Davis was one of the pioneers in this field. Its hot line number is (800) 565-1526 from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Pacific time, M-F. More information: www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/petloss/index.htm.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Humane handling of feral cat problem

For years, the accepted way of handling a surplus of feral cats -- domestic cats gone wild -- was to trap them and kill them. Problem was, the killing solution was always temporary: More cats came back.

Humane advocates thought there had to be a better way, and so in recent years the practice of trap, neuter and release (TNR) has gained ground as a way of handling problems with feral cats. Ferals are trapped, vaccinated and neutered, and then released to the area from which they came originally. Maintained in place by people who feed them, the cats will keep others from colonizing an area as their own numbers slowly dwindle.

TNR is vehemently opposed by people who continue to insist that extermination is the best way to handle feral cats, pointing to problems with predation and mess. Auburn University has been trying to come up with some answers by practicing TNR on its campus in a program managed by volunteers from the university's college of veterinary medicine. The Web site of Operation Cat Nap (www.operationcatnap.org) explains how TNR programs are supposed to work, and how one actually does work on the gracious Alabama campus, where almost 150 feral cats have gone through the program.

PET TIP

A spray solution to pet odors

One of James Herriot's classic stories involves a dog whose flatulence causes much concern to the animal's upper-class owner. While trying to solve the problem, Dr. Herriot comes to realize that the dog is much adored by a groundskeeper. It's a perfect match: The groundskeeper has no sense of smell, and the dog ends up living with him.

For those of us whose noses work perfectly, living with pets can sometimes be a problem, especially when we're living with animals who have the same problem as the dog in the Herriot story.

I have one of those dogs, a retriever who produces enough gas to be considered an alternative source of energy.

Petrotech Odor Eliminator is designed to defeat pet odors. And in an admittedly unscientific test in my home, the product worked quite well against the noxious fumes routinely emitted by Ben, seeming to remove odor rather than cover it up. The product retails for $12.95 in either direct spray or mist varieties, and is available from pet-supply retailers, catalog companies and Web sites.

THE SCOOP

Gentle grooming is good for your cat

Over the long haul, you're going to have very little success doing anything your cat doesn't want you to do, and you should always keep this in mind when trying to brush your cat.

Still, you'd be surprised at what some cats are willing to put up with. Show cats, for example, are conditioned to tolerate a great deal of grooming, traveling and handling by strangers -- and with very little fuss. That's what they're used to, after all, and the show life is the only one they've known.

Although your cat may never display the confidence and outgoing temperament of a seasoned show cat, you can do a lot to help him learn to enjoy regular brushing. Here's how:

-- Go slowly. Introduce new routines a little bit at a time and build up your cat's tolerance over time. Be positive! Grooming is good time spent together.

-- Give yourself a fresh start. If you have longhaired cat who's matted, arrange to have him shaved down by a groomer so you don't start out your relationship by jerking on your cat's fur as you struggle to remove mats. Sure, the cat will look funny, but the coat grows back quickly. And by the time it does, your cat will be more used to being gently groomed.

-- Reward your cat. Use treats, praise and gentle petting to encourage your cat's cooperative. You can't make a cat do anything he doesn't want to, so praise is the only way to go.

-- Know when to call it a day. You'll do better if you stop before your cat becomes impatient, annoyed or afraid, but if you miss the signs -- or feel yourself becoming cross -- taper off quickly and end the session on a note of praise and petting. If you've really blown it, just let go. Try again a few hours later or another day.

Never try to hold onto an angry or frightened cat. Failure to respect a cat's temper or fear can result in your being badly bitten or clawed.

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the numbers of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members -- as opposed to neglected outdoor "protection" dogs.

Some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent);

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property;

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET Rx

Lead can be dangerous to inquisitive parrots

Is your parrot at risk for lead poisoning? Lead can be found in weights for fishing and for curtains, in bell clappers, solder, some types of putty or plaster, some linoleum, stained glass, costume jewelry, leaded foils from champagne and wine bottles, batteries, some ceramic glazes, the backs of some mirrors, some paints and galvanized wire.

No bird lover is going to feed a fishing weight to a pet, but as always, the inquisitive nature of parrots put them at risk. The energetic chewing of a parrot can even reveal lead paint many layers down on the walls of an old house.

You have to keep an eye out for dangerous metals in your bird's environment, but some things you may worry about aren't a problem. Pencil leads, for example, aren't made of lead any more, and contrary to some long-held beliefs, you have nothing to fear from the ink on newspaper used to line a cage or from "child-safe" paints.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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