Can indoor cats really be happy? Cat lovers can -- and do -- maintain vehemently opposed opinions on this issue. But you can't disagree with the fact that the free-roaming life can be dangerous for a cat.

My friends who let their cats roam free have had their pets run over by cars (too many times to count), pulled apart by dogs (once), by coyotes (twice) and poisoned (a half-dozen times, most times accidentally but at least once suspiciously). And those are just the deaths they know about. Mostly, my friends' cats just disappear, with sad and frequent regularity.

Such tragedies don't happen to indoor cats, who are statistically likely to outlive free-roaming cats by a about a decade. Compared to an existence filled with cars, coyotes, traps, poisons and cat-hating neighbors, the life of an indoor cat is relatively risk-free.

Still, keeping a cat inside is more difficult, both in terms of the time spent maintaining the animal, and the effort and imagination required to keep the animal mentally and physically happy. But I've seen enough indoor cats to know that they seem perfectly content, especially if they've never been allowed to roam.

Since you've taken away a large part of the cat's natural world when you keep them inside, you need to put in "environmental enrichments" to make up for the loss. If you're going to have an indoor cat, you need to think about ways to make your home more entertaining to your cat, engaging as many senses as possible.

Your first investment should be a cat tree, a place for your pet to scratch, climb, perch and generally feel superior to the beings below. Cats love to scratch -- it keeps their claws sharp, gives them a good stretch and allows them to mark their territory with scent. With patience, most cats can be trained to use a cat tree or post instead of furniture.

Next up: toys. You'll need an interactive toy you can use to play with your cat, such as a "fishing" pole. Add some toys for batting around, such as small stuffed animals or balls with bells in them. You don't even need to spend money: Cats can be kept entertained with empty boxes or shopping bags, corks from wine bottles or the tops of milk containers.

Don't forget to jazz up the scent of toys with catnip or valeria, both of which you can grow yourself, so you'll always have a fresh supply. And while you're planting, be sure to keep fresh grasses growing for your cat's nibbling pleasure.

You can also work on ways to give your cat safe access to the outdoors, such as with a cat door into a screened-in porch. You can also buy kits for portable outdoor pens, completed with tunnels for connecting to the house. I know of several people who have put together some grand outdoor spaces, including a two-story enclosure clinging to the side of the house with areas for climbing, sunbathing and hiding. These needn't be expensive, especially if you're a capable do-it-yourselfer.

Yes, it's hard to convert a free-roaming cat to a life indoors. If your cat is used to coming and going when he pleases, conversion is best done when you move, rather than suddenly restricting your cat's territory -- a change no self-respecting cat will quietly accept. But if you're patient and firm, even the most stubborn of cats will eventually adapt.

When my friends tell me they simply cannot keep their cats inside, I say this: The next time one of your free-roaming cats disappears, promise me that the next one will be kept safe inside. Just try it, and see how it works.

Whatever a cat loses by not roaming free he'll gain from the pleasures you can pack in your home. And he'll really benefit from the long, healthy life enjoyed by so many indoor cats.

BARK BACK: Do you have suggestions for making life better for your indoor cat? Let me know! If you have a digital image (jpeg, please) of your pet, send that along as well, to petconnection@gmail.com.

Q&A

How to know: Is it time to let go?

Q: How can I tell if my dog is unhappy, in pain, or simply has spent his allotted time and is ready for some help to the other side?

I realize that my dog is old at 11, especially for an English bulldog. He recently has been seen by the veterinarian, but the results were confusing and not at all helpful. He has eye problems, ear problems, skin problems, breathing problems and arthritis, but he has always these problems, to some degree.

He has a naturally sad-looking face, and all his life he has never complained of pain even when it was warranted. I worry that I'm being selfish out of pure love and am keeping him going beyond his time.

He currently is on Rimadyl and Cephalexin, but I'm not sure if I should continue making him take them. Without them, he is miserable (a completely different dog). I wonder if I'm just prolonging the inevitable by covering it up with medication.

Essentially he is a sweet and loving dog, but it drives me crazy thinking the medicine is uncalled-for. Any advice is greatly appreciated, as I love my dog. He is my whole world. -- C.K., via e-mail

A: Yours is the hardest decision any of us will make about our animal companions. And before I give you any advice, let me say how very sorry I am that you're wrestling with this now.

That said, I think you're not at the ultimate decision point yet. Your dog sounds about normal for a senior pet, with mostly good days and a few not-so-good. His medications are maintaining his quality of life, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that.

Rimadyl and other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (veterinarians call them NSAIDs) can dramatically improve the quality of life for arthritic pets, as long as precautions are taken to ensure the drugs are appropriate for an individual animal and will not cause a bigger problem than they're trying to treat. (Screening for certain health problems before some of these medications are prescribed is essential, as is monitoring once the animal is taking them. Your veterinarian will have more information, so ask!)

My Sheltie Andy lived happily on NSAIDs -- Rimadyl, specifically -- for the last four years of his life. I didn't consider it "covering up" his symptoms, but rather buying him a few more years of good quality time.

I have been where you are more times than I care to think about, and I've always felt that when you know an animal, you just somehow feel it deep in your heart when it's time. The "symptoms" include a lack of interest in eating, even if special foods are offered, and the glazed expression and panting that goes with chronic pain. But there's also something intangible, a sense that the animal is ready to go and is asking to be set free.

I have always preferred to be three days early rather than one hour late in making these decisions. But I have also made good use of both traditional pain medications and alternative treatments like acupuncture to maintain a high quality of life for as long as possible. The goodbyes are always heartbreaking, but at least I am left with the knowledge that I did the very best I could in a world where no one ever knows for sure if the timing was absolutely right.

Please know that almost every school or college of veterinary medicine now offers a pet-loss support service, staffed by trained veterinary student volunteers. The University of California-Davis was one of the pioneers in this field. Its hot line number is (800) 565-1526 from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Pacific time, M-F. More information: www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/petloss/index.htm.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Humane handling of feral cat problem

For years, the accepted way of handling a surplus of feral cats -- domestic cats gone wild -- was to trap them and kill them. Problem was, the killing solution was always temporary: More cats came back.

Humane advocates thought there had to be a better way, and so in recent years the practice of trap, neuter and release (TNR) has gained ground as a way of handling problems with feral cats. Ferals are trapped, vaccinated and neutered, and then released to the area from which they came originally. Maintained in place by people who feed them, the cats will keep others from colonizing an area as their own numbers slowly dwindle.

TNR is vehemently opposed by people who continue to insist that extermination is the best way to handle feral cats, pointing to problems with predation and mess. Auburn University has been trying to come up with some answers by practicing TNR on its campus in a program managed by volunteers from the university's college of veterinary medicine. The Web site of Operation Cat Nap (www.operationcatnap.org) explains how TNR programs are supposed to work, and how one actually does work on the gracious Alabama campus, where almost 150 feral cats have gone through the program.

PET TIP

A spray solution to pet odors

One of James Herriot's classic stories involves a dog whose flatulence causes much concern to the animal's upper-class owner. While trying to solve the problem, Dr. Herriot comes to realize that the dog is much adored by a groundskeeper. It's a perfect match: The groundskeeper has no sense of smell, and the dog ends up living with him.

For those of us whose noses work perfectly, living with pets can sometimes be a problem, especially when we're living with animals who have the same problem as the dog in the Herriot story.

I have one of those dogs, a retriever who produces enough gas to be considered an alternative source of energy.

Petrotech Odor Eliminator is designed to defeat pet odors. And in an admittedly unscientific test in my home, the product worked quite well against the noxious fumes routinely emitted by Ben, seeming to remove odor rather than cover it up. The product retails for $12.95 in either direct spray or mist varieties, and is available from pet-supply retailers, catalog companies and Web sites.

THE SCOOP

Gentle grooming is good for your cat

Over the long haul, you're going to have very little success doing anything your cat doesn't want you to do, and you should always keep this in mind when trying to brush your cat.

Still, you'd be surprised at what some cats are willing to put up with. Show cats, for example, are conditioned to tolerate a great deal of grooming, traveling and handling by strangers -- and with very little fuss. That's what they're used to, after all, and the show life is the only one they've known.

Although your cat may never display the confidence and outgoing temperament of a seasoned show cat, you can do a lot to help him learn to enjoy regular brushing. Here's how:

-- Go slowly. Introduce new routines a little bit at a time and build up your cat's tolerance over time. Be positive! Grooming is good time spent together.

-- Give yourself a fresh start. If you have longhaired cat who's matted, arrange to have him shaved down by a groomer so you don't start out your relationship by jerking on your cat's fur as you struggle to remove mats. Sure, the cat will look funny, but the coat grows back quickly. And by the time it does, your cat will be more used to being gently groomed.

-- Reward your cat. Use treats, praise and gentle petting to encourage your cat's cooperative. You can't make a cat do anything he doesn't want to, so praise is the only way to go.

-- Know when to call it a day. You'll do better if you stop before your cat becomes impatient, annoyed or afraid, but if you miss the signs -- or feel yourself becoming cross -- taper off quickly and end the session on a note of praise and petting. If you've really blown it, just let go. Try again a few hours later or another day.

Never try to hold onto an angry or frightened cat. Failure to respect a cat's temper or fear can result in your being badly bitten or clawed.

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the numbers of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members -- as opposed to neglected outdoor "protection" dogs.

Some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent);

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property;

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET Rx

Lead can be dangerous to inquisitive parrots

Is your parrot at risk for lead poisoning? Lead can be found in weights for fishing and for curtains, in bell clappers, solder, some types of putty or plaster, some linoleum, stained glass, costume jewelry, leaded foils from champagne and wine bottles, batteries, some ceramic glazes, the backs of some mirrors, some paints and galvanized wire.

No bird lover is going to feed a fishing weight to a pet, but as always, the inquisitive nature of parrots put them at risk. The energetic chewing of a parrot can even reveal lead paint many layers down on the walls of an old house.

You have to keep an eye out for dangerous metals in your bird's environment, but some things you may worry about aren't a problem. Pencil leads, for example, aren't made of lead any more, and contrary to some long-held beliefs, you have nothing to fear from the ink on newspaper used to line a cage or from "child-safe" paints.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

For most of my adult life, the animals and I made do with a series of compact cars and small station wagons. But when I adopted my second big, bouncy and usually damp retriever a half-dozen years ago, I decided a four-door compact wasn't quite cutting it. Falling in with soccer moms and my fellow dog nuts, I bought a brand-new minivan.

It was the first full-out dog-mobile I'd ever owned, so I decided to get license plates to show my allegiance to the family of folks who make all their major purchasing decisions with their pets in mind. I brought up the Web site of my state's Department of Motor Vehicles and typed in my choice for a vanity plate.

"PET MOM." Taken.

"LUVS PETS." Taken.

"I (heart) PETS." Taken.

And so it went through my first dozen choices. Taken. Taken. Taken. I hit on a combination that wasn't taken and signed up for it, only to have the folks at DMV reject my selection because of an interpretation I wasn't dirty-minded enough to imagine.

Finally, after a few weeks of trying, I came up with a vanity plate that was neither taken nor could be interpreted as obscene. Unfortunately, it also turned out to be so vague that to this day no one has ever recognized it as being pet-related. If it weren't so much trouble, I'd have turned it back in years ago and resigned to making do with a "Dog Is My Co-Pilot" sticker on one side of my bumper and an SPCA "neuter your pet" tag on the other.

If I can't have the pet-themed license plates of my dreams, I'm glad to know that someone else does. And if the recent call I put out for favorite pet-related license plates is any indication, I now know I won't get my choice of plates simply by moving to another state: Plenty of people elsewhere want everyone on the roadways to know they adore their pets.

"I wanted to trumpet my pride about the four adored cats in our household," said Sheryl Rapée-Adams of Vermont about the "CATMOM" plates that compete for attention with other animal-related bumper stickers. "I wanted to convey that regardless of their common title -- pet owner, guardian, whatever -- humans act as pet parents."

Others sent in images of plates that show similar activist intentions, such as Christine Casey's "GETMFIXD."

"I moved from California to North Carolina," said Casey, a professor at North Carolina State University. "As I got more involved with my local animal rescue group, I became aware of the fact that North Carolina's shelters have a euthanasia rate that is twice the national average. Hence my license plate."

Back in California, Evelyn Owens is spreading the same message, with "SPAY NOW" plates on her classic Mercedes.

Others take a different tack with their plates, as can be seen in the parking lot outside any dog or cat show. People who love a particular breed aren't shy about saying so, which is why you may catch a glimpse of "NEWF ME," "SHEL T" or even spot a "LABMOBL." Broadening the idea out a bit were the folks who submitted "I(heart)BIGK9S" and "DGYWGN."

One of my all-time favorites remains the vanity plate chosen by a friend of mind who loves Labradors. Her license plate? "LAB5150." Don't get it? My friend is married to a California Highway Patrolman and explains that "5150" is police code for a person who's acting crazy; hence, her plate translates to "Lab crazy."

Bark back: Got a great vanity plate on your vehicle? Send a digital image (jpeg, please), an explanation of what it means and why you chose it to petconnection@gmail.com. We'll continue to feature interesting pet-themed vanity plates now and then.

Q&A

Cheap pet tags can stain fur

Q: Our veterinarian buys the cheapest rabies tags that can be found, I'm sure. They stain our dog's coat and are hard to read after just a few months. Any suggestions? -- C.L., via e-mail

A: Leave them off. If you have an ID tag and a municipal license on your pet, you've covered both lost-pet retrieval and rabies awareness needs (since a rabies vaccine is required to get the license).

Make sure the ID tag is of good quality, though. Pet-recovery expert Liz Blackman, president of the lost-pet tracking service 1-800-Help4Pets (www.help4pets.com), says the key to choosing a tag is how easy it is to read the information it holds.

"I discourage the cute tags in favor of visibility and durability," she said. "You want people to be able to read it without taking off the collar or handling the pet much." She added that in her experience, plastic tags are more durable than metal ones when it comes to staying legible longer.

But whatever you do, make sure you keep legible ID tags on your pets' collars. I find that tags need to be replaced every other year, so I keep extras on hand so I don't have to wait to replace a lost, worn or broken one.

"If you need something cute, get a cute collar -- but make sure you get a good tag," says Blackman. "A $100 collar won't save your pet's life, but a $3 tag will."

Q: I went to a crafts fair recently, and there was a woman there who was selling scarves, some of which where made out of dog hair. She said she get the combings from a friend who breeds Samoyeds. Is this legit? Seems kind of gross to me. -- S.G., via e-mail

A: If you do a Web search, you'll easily find spinners who can take the combings from your own dog and turn them into beautiful yarn you can use for knitting. It works better with the undercoat of longhaired dogs (like the Samoyed), but spinners can mix almost any dog fur with the fur of other animals to make yarn. And with that yarn, anything from scarves to sweaters to afghans (the kind you can fold and put over the back of the couch, not the breed) is possible.

As for the "gross" factor: What would make dog-hair yarn any more distasteful than yarn from a sheep or goat? It's all nice and clean when it's ready to use. And with dog fur, the yarn is made from combings that would just be thrown away after grooming.

Q: A friend sent me a link to an article on the Web that says clumping cat litters can be deadly, but my veterinarian says they're fine. Who is right? -- F.Y., via e-mail

A: The idea that clumping litter is deadly traces back to an article in a long-defunct holistic cat magazine and is kept alive by the power of the Internet. The article -- I've read it -- guessed that the litter was the cause of the death of the author's kittens. The evidence was purely speculative and anecdotal, and has not been supported by subsequent scientific research.

While there's no evidence that clumping litters are bad for adult cats, some veterinarians adopt a better-safe-than-sorry policy regarding young kittens. That's because a playful, curious kitten might be tempted to eat the material, which might indeed cause an intestinal problem. The cautious solution is to use a non-clumping litter for the first couple of months, then switch if you wish to.

Final note on this: If you have a dog who eats the contents of litter boxes, either use a non-clumping variety or be sure the box is in a place the dog can't get to it.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

African grays can be able talkers, but shy

African gray parrots are among the best when it comes to talking potential, along with yellow-headed Amazons, but their personalities could not be more different, according to my "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian specialist Dr. Brian Speer.

Speer says when he hears a parrot showing off in his waiting room, he has a pretty good idea that it's an Amazon. An African gray may have just as large a vocabulary, but these parrots are less likely to show off before an audience of strangers.

Safe in their own homes, though, the grays are adept at picking up words, phrases and household sounds -- even those you don't want mimicked. (A friend of mine has a gray who parrots the popping sound of a wine cork being pulled, leaving guests to wonder how often the bird has heard that sound.)

The "It's a Grey's World" Web site (www.itsagreysworld.com/home.html) offers a lot of information on these clever, beautiful parrots. Among other things, the site suggests that that the music of Raffi is something the parrots enjoy hearing. Considering that African grays are thought to have intelligence equivalent to a human toddler, perhaps a taste for children's music isn't such a surprise.

PET Rx

Iguana escape act can be startling

(Caption: Iguanas have the ability to lose their tails to escape a predator.)

The ability to lose a tail can be a lifesaver for iguanas.

If caught by a predator, an iguana can escape by dropping the tail, leaving it still wriggling in the mouth of an animal who thought lunch was in the bag. The trick isn't used just with predators: More than a few people who are new to having an iguana as a pet have ended up screaming the first time they find themselves holding a thrashing tail instead of an iguana.

Smaller iguanas are more likely than larger ones to regrow their tails, usually within a few weeks. If the tail is in place but injured, or is only partially broken off, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in reptiles is in order to determine the best course of treatment.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PETS BY THE BOOK

Getting a jump on next year's garden

Fall and winter are when gardeners plan for spring. For those gardeners who love both plants and dogs, Cheryl S. Smith's book "Dog Friendly Gardens, Garden Friendly Dogs" is as must-read a publication as the seed catalogs that start showing up when cold weather arrives.

"Dog Friendly Gardens" (Dogwise, $20) pulls together a great deal of commonsense information that gardeners and dog trainers know, and puts it all in one place for those of us struggling to deal with yellow spots and broken plants.

The biggest problem with dogs and gardens turns out to be unrealistic expectations. As Smith explains, a lot of people put in landscaping as if they didn't have a dog, with no understand of normal canine behavior, and how it can vary from breed type to breed type. It's unrealistic to expect a terrier not to dig, for example, since these breeds were developed to dig after vermin. The solution: a digging pit for canine recreation -- and no unsupervised access to beds of prized flowers.

Breeds developed to protect property, says Smith, have a tendency to patrol the perimeter of a yard, wiping out any plantings along the base of the fence. The solution: Leave a pathway clear of plantings along the fence line, so the dog can do his job without doing any damage.

And what about those yellow spots? Smith, a longtime dog trainer, notes that it's just as easy to train a dog to use an out-of-the-way corner of the yard as it is to house-train the animal in the first place. Aside from that, the best way to prevent dead lawn is to flush the area with water within a few hours of the time a dog marks the spot. The water will dilute the urine so that it will not cause damage to the lawn.

"Dog Friendly Gardens" is full of such insights. It's the only book I've ever read that puts so much good dog and garden advice in one place and organizes it so well. Whether you're landscaping a brand-new home or thinking of trying something new in an old back yard, you'll want to pick up a copy of this invaluable reference before you even consider turning a shovelful of dirt.

THE SCOOP

Removing temptation is solution to stealing

Sometimes it's easier to manage a problem behavior rather than trying to train your way around it. Some behaviors, such as food-stealing, are so rewarding that every time a pet succeeds the habit is reinforced.

The answer: Remove the temptation. For example, consider the pet who steals from a kitchen wastebasket. Instead of constantly tempting your pet with an open-topped wastebasket, take steps to make the pickings less easy by getting a can with a lid.

Any home retailer will have several lidded cans to choose from, including those with lids that pop open when you step on the pedal at floor-level. For pets who are more determined about getting into the can, you may need to go with a lid that fits more securely, or use a trash container made of metal, not plastic.

Another alternative: Put the basket behind a cupboard door.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Here's a riddle for you: How is it that more families have dogs than have cats, but cats outnumber dogs as pets?

The answer: Many families have more than one cat.

According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, 40.6 percent of U.S. households in 2002 reported having at least one dog, while cats ruled in 35.3 percent of households. (Some families of course, have both.) But cats were by far the most popular pet, according to the same trade group, which reported 2002 figures of 77.7 million pet cats to 65 million pet dogs.

Problem is, in a lot of those multi-feline families, relations between cats are a bit strained. And when cats aren't happy, nobody's happy. The noise of cats grumbling threats at each other or engaging in frequent rumbles can get on one's nerves and even mean trips to the veterinarian. And the litter-box problems that can be a part of such turf wars can turn an entire house into a toilet.

Living with more than one cat doesn't have to be so contentious. The trick to domestic harmony for cohabiting felines is to introduce -- or reintroduce -- them slowly and carefully.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time. Kittens don't have the sense of territory that grown cats have and will settle down together into a new home nicely. Second-best: Adopt two adult cats at the same time, so neither has a head start on the other when it comes to claiming territory.

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful co-existence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set him in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. When the new cat is alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Above all: Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly feed them in ever-closer proximity.

If you already have two cats who don't get along, treat them as if they've both just arrived. Give them their each their own quarters and let them slowly work out their territorial disputes. But do remember: Some cats will never get along. For these, separate quarters such as one upstairs, one downstairs, may need to become a permanent arrangement.

SIDEBAR

Litter-box rules

One of the most common points of conflict in multi-cat households is over the litter box. Some cats don't like to share, and that may force other cats to avoid the litter box altogether.

The rule of thumb behaviorists use: one box per cat, plus one.

Place the litter boxes in different parts of the house, and arrange each so a cat can feel secure but also keep an eye on his surroundings. No one likes to be ambushed while on the john! And don't forget the first rule of litter-box management: Keep 'em clean.

If it sounds like a lot of trouble, consider this: The one sure loser in any litter-box war is the person who cleans up the messes.

Q&A

Preventive care can keep teeth healthy

Q: My 5-year-old Pomeranian has had three teeth cleanings so far, as insisted on by her vet. I am afraid of having my dog put under anesthesia, but the vet says leaving her teeth alone can cause long-term problems. She eats dry food, which is supposed to help with plaque buildup. It doesn't seem to help. I can't believe how fast her teeth gunk up. Why is this such a problem with her? -- H.O., via e-mail

A: As a general rule, the smaller the dog, the faster the plaque buildup. For most dogs and cats, regular dental cleanings (as often as twice a year in some cases) are as important to pets' long-term health as they are to ours. Keeping teeth in good health prevents bad breath, preserves teeth into old age, and protects the pet's organs from the constant shower of bacteria caused by rotting teeth and gums. Over the course of a lifetime, good dental health will add significantly to your pet's quality of life and perhaps even extend her lifespan.

Many pet owners shy away from dental work for their pets for the very reason you do: They're worried about losing their companion to anesthesia. In recent years, however, the use of safer anesthetic agents has become nearly universal, making dental work advisable even for older dogs and cats. In short: The long-term risk of ignoring your pet's teeth is now greater than the short-term risk of anesthesia.

You can extend the time between cleanings, however, by taking on some of responsibility for keeping your pet's teeth clean.

Start your pet's dental health regimen with a trip to your veterinarian, who should check your pet's mouth, teeth and gums. Then he or she can make recommendations based on what is found. For many pets, that'll mean a complete dental cleaning under anesthesia, possibly some periodontal work, and even the removal of broken or rotting teeth.

After the problems are treated, at-home care can keep things in good shape. Here are the basics for both dogs and cats:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for pets a couple of times a week at least, although daily is better.

A children's soft toothbrush works well, as does one made especially for pets. You can also use a brush that fits over your fingertip, or plain gauze wrapped around your finger.

-- Feed pets dry food and offer teeth-cleaning toys. Dry food does help, but it must be used in combination with regular brushing and with toys that help wipe the teeth. Soft chewies or a rope toy are best. Avoid chews that are rock-hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces, as these can break teeth or slice gums.

Q: We have just adopted our fifth retired racing greyhound. We discovered these marvelous dogs more than 20 years ago and will never be without one. (We have lost dogs to health problems and old age, and with the recent addition we have two.)

People just can't imagine how quiet, calm and gentle these dogs are. Even the males, who can be quite large, seem to take up no space at all. I want to ask you to encourage others to look into retired racers. They'll be happy they did! -- V.R., via e-mail

A: I love making the case for greyhounds. They're everything you say they are, and they always seem to be aware of how lucky they are to be in a loving home.

In adopting one, you need to work with a reputable rescue organization that'll match the dog with your household. One of the biggest problems: Some greyhounds -- but not all -- don't mix safely with cats.

A good place to start researching is the Greyhound Project Web site (www.adopt-a-greyhound.org). You'll find lots of information pro and con, as well as links to regional rescue groups.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Two million happy endings for adoption program

When you're the dominant player in your industry, you don't really have to make that much effort to be nice. Which is why PetsMart deserves a big helping of respect for not selling dogs and cats in its stores, and instead making prime retail space available for community-based pet-rescue groups. The company says more than 2,700 non-profit groups use the in-store adoption spaces in 700 PetsMart locations, and in mid-October the chain-wide program marked its 2 millionth pet adoption.

The lucky animal was a 3-year-old beagle mix named Louie, who was adopted by the Armstrong family at the O'Fallon, Ill., store.

Now, if only PetsMart would take the lead once more and stop selling other pets in its stores. By making relatively inexpensive small pets such as rats, rabbits and budgies available, PetsMart is encouraging impulse purchases, especially by parents giving in to the wheedling of their children.

There are rescue and shelter groups finding new homes for almost every kind of pet imaginable. I urge PetsMart to take its notable accomplishments in helping homeless pets once step further by replacing all live-animals sales with in-store adoption outreach.

ON THE WEB

Candidates all agree: Pets are wonderful

The Presidential Pet Museum's Web site (www.presidentialpetmuseum.com) is the place to go for a fairly comprehensive list of all presidential animals, from the hounds and horses of George Washington to the dog and cats of George W. Bush. The animals kept by presidential families started out being more purposeful than companionable, with horses and milk cows commonplace.

By the turn of the last century, though, animals were welcomed just for keeping the president and his family company. Theodore Roosevelt brought in the new era with eight dogs and cats and a pack of presidential guinea pigs. But it fell to another Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, to bring the presidential pet into the political spotlight. His dog, Fala, is still arguably the best-known and most-loved White House pet in history. You'll find Fala's picture and much more on the Presidential Pet Museum's site, which is both attractive and easy to navigate.

PET TIP

Rabbits would really rather use a litter box

Recently, I was talking rabbits with a person who'd had them as a child. Hers were a series of outdoor pets who spent their lives on the wire flooring of an elevated hutch not 3 feet square.

Think about it: Spending your entire life on wire, barely able to move, much less to run the way rabbits are born to. Instead of considering how miserable a life this must have been for her childhood pets, she wondered how I could stand having my rabbit as an indoor pet.

"My memory of the rabbits, mostly, is that they smelled bad," she said.

I haven't noticed it. But then, my house rabbit Turbo has a large two-story cage with carpet on the top floor and solid flooring below. He has the run of the house when I'm home to monitor him, and he loves not only to run but also to leap into the air with joy, kicking his legs out sideways in a move that rabbit lovers call "a binky."

He doesn't stink, and he doesn't leave messes around the house. The reason? He has a litter box.

Rabbit litter boxes are a little different from those set up for cats. You don't scoop, but rather toss the entire contents regularly, clean the box and refill. (Unlike the waste of carnivores like cats, rabbit waste is a super-charged addition to any compost pile.)

You also need to be careful about your litter -- no clumping, clay or corn-based fillers. Since rabbits may munch box contents, you need to use one of the brands made of paper. Using a deep box (Turbo's is a dishpan), put a couple of inches of paper-pellet litter in the bottom, then cover with 3 to 4 inches of hay.

Best yet: no smell. The pellets absorb the urine, and the box allows the rabbit to keep himself and his surroundings clean.

PET Rx

True grit: Your bird doesn't need it

Avian veterinarians no longer recommend offering grit to most pet birds. The substance, made of finely ground rock, is now thought to have a negative impact on bird health, removing vitamins from the digestive system and causing potentially life-threatening blockages.

That said, there are some exceptions to the rule. Canaries and other finches should be allowed a couple of grains every couple of months. Parrots (including budgies and cockatiels) should not be offered grit at all.

Outdated advice on bird care is everywhere. To make sure you have the latest information, find a veterinarian who's a board-certified avian specialist, or who takes the extra time to stay current on avian care. You can find such a veterinarian through the Association of Avian Veterinarians (www.aav.org).

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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