Three years ago, Kendra Luck was starting to wonder what else could possibly go wrong with her life. She'd lost her brother, and staff reductions at her newspaper had claimed her job as a photojournalist. Suddenly, she was left with her dog, Gladys, her skills as a photographer -- and her love of both dogs and photography.

She had a Web site (www.dogumentarian.com) and the germ of a business idea to go with it. "You get laid off, your brother dies, your world changes. I said to myself, 'I can't keep waiting to do the things I want in my life.' It was just time to do something."

And so, Kendra Luck became the Dogumentarian. "I was interested in doing happy work," she said. "After working in journalism so long, you get a little depressed."

Working out of her San Francisco Bay Area home, Luck started taking artistic portraits of dogs, avoiding the modern appeal of color or digital in favor of black-and-white film images that work to reveal the true personality of their subjects. From the beginning, Luck's work stood out as something different.

"Part of it is my background," said Luck, acknowledging how different her work looks from the studio shots more common in pet photography. "When I decided to start doing this, I saw there were pet photographers, but no one was doing exactly what I do.

"I shoot in a documentary style," she said. "There are hobbyists, who decide to start charging for their work, and there are studio photographers, who decide to add pets to their business. But I'm a photojournalist, and I apply that documentary style to my work with dogs."

Luck shoots on location, using available light and backgrounds. In addition to her eye for just the right shot, Luck says patience is, for her, more than mere virtue.

"I follow the dog around," she said. "I want the dog to just be a dog, and I don't want the dog to perform. You want them to get to know you. It's like working with people: You need to get them comfortable, get them to relax, get them to show their true colors."

A portrait involves eight to 10 hours of Luck's time, she says, and runs from $200 to $500, but Luck says her clients aren't necessarily affluent. Among her clients, she has single women, gay couples, and more traditional families without children or whose children are grown. "I have some clients with children," she said, "But not many."

She works not only in Northern California, but also in Seattle, Austin, Chicago and Phoenix, and her portraits have also been shown in art galleries.

"My clients are people who not only love their dog, but also love the personality of their dog," she says. "The portraits are driven more by personality than by looks."

SIDEBAR

Choose pet photographer by style, personality

By Morgan Ong

Like professional wedding photographers, photographers specializing in pets have experiences and skills that set them apart when capturing the essence of their subjects. As with selecting a wedding photographer, choosing someone to take an artistic portrait of your pet requires some research to achieve a lifetime of satisfaction.

The primary consideration in selecting a local or regional professional is a photographer's style. Do you want formal portraits, or do you prefer the documentary style that has become so popular? Is it possible to have a mix of the two styles? Will the style you choose satisfy you over the years when the photographs are on your walls, on your desk or in albums?

Also, don't overlook rapport. The best results usually happen when there's an emotional connection at the earliest stage of the session. Make sure both you and your pets are comfortable with the photographer you choose.

Get a start on the selection process by clicking on the Web sites of a few of the scores of professional pet photographers to help you grasp the range of photographic styles available.

(RYAN: Maybe break Web site listings into two columns?)

www.dogumentarian.com

www.mattmendelsohn.com

www.lauraciapponi.com

www.amandajones.com

www.heidiladendorf.com

www.agpphoto.com

www.maryludington.com

www.kerrymansfield.com

www.masonart.net

www.pawcassoart.com

www.wendygrossman.com

www.suemuir.com

PET TIP

Proper tools make trimming cat claws easier

Your cat keeps his claws in shape by removing the worn outer coverings -- called sheaths -- and exposing the new claw below, either by chewing the sheaths off or leaving them in whatever he claws. (If you look closely at your cat's scratching post, you'll probably find old sheaths stuck in the fabric.)

Keeping your cat's claws trimmed is a good practice for two reasons: First, doing so cuts down on destructiveness by removing some -- but not all -- of your cat's desire to dig his claws into objects. Second, it makes things a little more comfortable for us thin-skinned humans to live with cats -- as anyone with a cat that likes to "knead" with claws going in and out while napping on a lap can testify!

You have two choices in terms of nail trimmers: guillotine or scissors-type. Guillotine trimmers have a little oval guide into which you slip your pet's nail and a blade that extends into that guide after you squeeze the handles together. The scissors-type works like scissors, not surprisingly, with the nail going between two small, crescent-shaped cutting blades. Either kind works perfectly well and is a matter of personal preference. Human fingernail or toenail trimmers will also work, although they're not as easy to handle if your cat's a squirmer.

You also need to pick up something to stop the bleeding should you nick the vein in your pet's nail. Kwik-Stop powder is available in most pet-supply stores or catalogs.

Don't be put off by packaging suggesting that either kind of clipper is for use on dogs -- they work just fine on your cat, too. Some scissors clippers are made just for cats, but you may find these a little too small to use easily.

Q&A

Altering your rabbit makes for a better pet

Q: We have an affectionate and playful miniature lop rabbit who lives in the house and is a full member of the family -- no outside hutch for her! One of my daughter's classmates has a rabbit that her family no longer wants, and my daughter is asking us to adopt him. I've said yes. But the new rabbit is a male, and we certainly don't want the pair of them to do what comes naturally (if you get my drift). Can rabbits be spayed or neutered? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Yes, rabbits certainly can be altered. And just as with dogs and cats, neutering and spaying eliminates many health and behavior problems. Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's lifespan, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine.

Put simply: Spayed and neutered rabbits make better pets. Despite all the benefits, however, anesthesia is a little trickier with rabbits than with dogs and cats. Be sure you're dealing with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits, and ask about anesthesia options and precautions. Do your part to help by following your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

And bless your kind heart in giving an unwanted rabbit a second chance. Too many parents dump pets when the child for whom they were purchased loses interest. The message this sends to children -- living things are disposable -- is perfectly dreadful.

Q: We're having a problem with our cat, who doesn't want to seem to stay put after our move. Our new home is two miles from the old one, and Justin keeps going back to the house where he grew up. The people who live there now keep calling us to pick him up, and we don't know what to do to keep him home. Any suggestions? -- L.W., via e-mail

A: Because cats bond to places as well as to people, some cat lovers find that their free-roaming pets keep showing up at their old home after a move, especially if the new home, like yours, isn't very far from the old one. My best suggestion for you is to convert your cat to an indoor pet, because crossing streets to go "home" considerably ups his risk of getting hit. Remember, indoor cats in general live longer, healthier lives.

If permanent confinement is not possible, bring your cat inside for a couple of weeks. While he's cooped up, dedicate extra time to playing with him, especially interactive games such as with a toy on a string. This play helps to relieve him of some of his stress or excess anxiety and also aids him in forming attachments to his new home and to the idea of you in it.

After a couple of weeks, let him out for short periods into your yard with you, and take him back in when you go inside again. You should be able to get a feel for when he's starting to recognize the new digs as his home, and increase his freedom accordingly. There are no guarantees, but if you've taken your time to let him adjust, he should stay close by.

Make sure the new people at your old home aren't encouraging your cat to stay. Ask them not to feed him or pet him and to use a squirt bottle or a noisemaker to deter him from staying if they see him around.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET RX

Variety the key to healthy bird diet

No matter what your bird thinks, seeds are not the best diet for pet parrots, a group that includes everything from the tiniest parakeet to the largest macaw.

An all-seed diet contributes both directly (through malnutrition) and indirectly (by weakening the bird, making it easier for infectious diseases to take hold) to a serious reduction in the possible lifespan of any pet bird -- by half or more in many situations, in fact.

What should you be feeding him instead? No one food is currently all your pet bird needs to thrive, not even the wide array of commercially prepared food pellets that should make up the largest portion of a typical pet bird's healthy diet. Variety is the name of the game when it comes to feeding your pet bird. This means in addition to offering high-quality pelleted food, you should be offering a wide array of healthy "people food" -- fresh vegetables, fruits, pasta, bread, scrambled eggs. Whatever has good nutrition for you is also good for your parrot.

If your bird is a "seed junkie," talk to an avian veterinarian about a strategy for converting your pet to a base diet of pellets supplemented by a variety of healthy foods.

As for seeds, they're still OK to give your bird as an occasional treat, or for an incentive used in training.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

California ferrets still illegal -- and popular

California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger made it clear recently in vetoing the state's latest ferret amnesty plan that he didn't have anything against the pets, which are legal in every other state except Hawaii.

"I love ferrets. I co-starred with a ferret in 'Kindergarten Cop,'" said the movie-star governor. "However, this bill is too bureaucratic, and it legalizes ferrets prior to conducting an environmental impact report."

The governor's action ensures another round of silliness by the California Legislature when yet another bill is introduced trying to reconcile the law with the fact that tens of thousands of ferrets already live in the state, so many that pet-stores openly sell ferret supplies.

In the meantime, ferret lovers in California and elsewhere will find good information on caring for these lively pets on the Ferret Central Web site (www.ferretcentral.org). The page isn't pretty, but it certainly is functional, with links to dozens of pages on every imaginable ferret-related topic. -- G.S.

BY THE NUMBERS

Love me, love my dog -- or get lost!

Have dogs replaced diamonds as a girl's best friend? It's certainly open to debate, with some supporting evidence for canine companionship revealed in a Harris Poll conducted over the summer for the makers of Milk-Bone dog treats.

Among the results:

-- Thirty-two percent of current dog owners agree that their dog is their best friend, with women (34 percent) more likely than men (29 percent) to think so.

-- Women are twice as likely as men to talk to their dogs on the phone or leave a message on their home answering machine while they're away.

-- While 38 percent of dog owners overall refer to themselves as "mommy" or "daddy" to their canine companion, there are differences by both region and gender. In the Northeast, 48 percent of dog lovers refer to themselves as parents, and women are more likely than men to do so, by 44 percent to 30 percent.

-- If you're a dog, you're better off with a single woman than a single man. Women are more likely than men to pass on marrying someone who doesn't like the dog, by 40 percent to 34 percent.

THE SCOOP

Head-butting cat's message: You're mine!

When your cat rubs his head against your leg, he's doing it because he loves you, right? Sort of. Your cat is definitely showing his affection for you, but he's also marking you as his property by putting his scent on you.

Your cat has sebaceous glands at the base of his hair follicles that produce sebum, a substance that serves two purposes: coating the fur for protection and depositing scent on objects in the cat's environment.

These glands are most numerous around your cat's mouth and on the chin, lips, upper eyelids, on the top of the tail base, and near his anus and genitals. If a cat rubs with his head (a behavior known as bunting), or any of these scent-loaded parts of his body, he's depositing both sebum and his own distinct scent on everything he touches.

Our pitiful noses can't detect these deposits, but other cats surely can.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

OK, pet lovers, it's time for a pop quiz. Halloween costumes for dogs are (choose one):

(a) A silly way to spend money

(b) Generally harmless fun

(c) Another sign of the decline of Western civilization

(d) All of the above

The answer, of course, depends on your perception of what a proper relationship with a companion animal should be. There are those among us who wince at the way pets are increasingly treated like little furry children, while others don't see the harm in anything that doesn't hurt anyone.

Me? I fall into both camps.

I do worry when I hear many of us refer to our pets as "children" -- and seem to really mean it when we say so. That concerns me because it leads some people to forget that pets are not people, but rather animals with different needs from ours. But if I had to choose on behalf of an animal, I have to admit I'd much rather see one spoiled than neglected or abused.

I do worry as well about the amount of money we spend on silly pet junk, especially when there are plenty of pets (and, it must be noted, plenty of people) who are in desperate need of the most basic of essentials. But I also know that one of the reasons we keep animals is to lighten our spirits, and if a few dollars spent here and there on silly pet stuff does that, where's the harm?

Which brings us back to Halloween costumes.

Let's face it: When you spend money on apparel for dogs, you're not doing it for the dogs, except in the case of a sweater for an old dog or for a dog of a cold-blooded breed like the whippet. Your dog doesn't care if he has a biker jacket, sunglasses, an ear-hugging visor or even a colorful bandana. He'll put up with most anything you put on him, as long as it means spending more time with you.

If putting a costume on your dog means you'll fuss over him and maybe take him somewhere interesting, like the costume contests that are everywhere these days, then sure, it's a no-lose proposition. Dress up your dog and have some fun. But while you have your checkbook out buying the costume, don't forget to send a little of that discretionary income to your local shelter, just because.

Not to say that you need to spend much money on a costume, of course. I've dressed up my dogs a few times for contests, and the best idea I ever came up with cost less than $5 to pull together. I bought round, white stickers at an office-supply store and put them all over Benjamin, my big black retriever. Outfitted as a "reverse Dalmatian," he won a $50 gift certificate in a pet costume contest, which is not a bad return on the investment.

If you don't want to put any effort into coming up with something, you can find ready-made costumes at many pet-supply outlets, in almost as much variety as you'll find in costumes for children. Make sure any costume meets the commonsense standard: It's comfortable and nonrestrictive, inedible, and it doesn't involve anything that could be hazardous, such as dye or paint.

Here are some other precautions to keep Halloween from being a fright:

-- Injuries. With the increase in activity, cats and dogs get nervous or excited, and some will take off if they can. That means an increase in animals hit by cars. Other animals may be a cause of injury: All those costumed young visitors can trigger territorial instincts or fear-responses in some dogs, who may then become a bite risk.

Prevention: Keeping pets confined inside away from the action, in a crate or behind a closed door. If you do take your dog to a costume contest, be sure to keep an eye on other dogs for signs of aggression, and don't crowd any dog, no matter how friendly he seems.

-- Food problems. Candy is a problem more for dogs than for cats, because cats are generally picky about what they eat. Not so for most dogs, who'll wolf down candy -- wrappers and all -- if given the opportunity, giving many a serious case of what veterinarians call "garbage gut." Any candy can trigger a bout of intestinal upset, but chocolate can do much worse. The small dog who gets a large amount of chocolate could end up dead without prompt veterinary intervention.

Prevention: No people treats for pets, and keep candy bowls and trick-or-trick bags out of reach of those animals who may be tempted to help themselves.

Bark back: What do you think about Halloween costumes for pets? Please let us know where you live when you reply to petconnection@gmail.com. We'll share readers' thoughts in an upcoming Pet Connection. (Responses may be edited for length and clarity.)

SECONDARY

Cat shows: What you need to know before you go

You don't need to know the difference between a Grand Champion and a Triple Champion or a Maine Coon Cat or Norwegian Forest Cat to enjoy a cat show. If you bring your love of cats and maybe your credit card, you can have a wonderful time. Here are a few tips to make the day easier.

-- Wear comfortable, casual clothes with a little flexibility. Show halls are notorious for being too hot or too cold, no matter the outside temperature. Wear something light and carry a sweater, and you'll be covered either way. Comfortable shoes are important; you're going to be on your feet a lot. Carry a backpack or big purse, as well as a notepad and pen. You're sure to run across freebies or buy toys to take home to your cat, and you may want to take some notes.

-- Be aware of the demands on exhibitors. Your first question to any exhibitor should be: "Is this a good time to ask a couple of questions about your cats?" They'll let you know, and if it's not, they can tell you when it will be. Never bother an exhibitor who has a cat in her arms, because she's almost certainly headed to or coming from the judging ring. And step aside: Cat-show etiquette -- and common sense -- demands that a person carrying a cat has the right-of-way.

-- Be respectful of the health and safety of the cats. Be aware that you almost certainly aren't going to be allowed to pet any cat at a show. Breeders are concerned about the spread of disease. So the only people who touch any cats at a show are the people who brought them and the judges, who are careful to sanitize their hands and the judging platform between each cat they handle.

-- Watch at least one class being judged. Unlike dog-show judges, who never share their thoughts with the spectators (or even the competitors), cat-show judges consider education an important part of their job. They often discuss the good and not-so-good points of each animal as they judge, and many are not only articulate and knowledgeable but witty as well. After the judging is over, most are happy to answer a question or two. Some shows also have separate rings set up for educational talks.

Best of all, a cat show is a special opportunity to see dozens of beautifully groomed cats -- not only of the more common breeds but also of some of the rarest in the world.

Q&A

Sunscreen necessary to protect some pets

Q: What do you recommend as a safe sunscreen for dogs? I have a young, primarily white, shorthaired Jack Russell terrier. I don't want to risk him getting sunburned on our days out hiking in the sun.

Is a sunscreen that's safe for babies a good idea for my dog? I have not found any products specifically for dogs available in pet stores. I have also asked the technician at my veterinarian's office, but she didn't have a clue. -- B.R., via e-mail

A: I can hear people snickering now. "Sunscreen for dogs? What next?" But the risks of overexposure to the sun can indeed be a problem for many dogs. For information on which animals are at risk and how to best protect them, I turned to a top veterinary dermatologist, Dr. Peter J. Ihrke of the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine.

"Unfortunately, dogs can develop a wide variety of sun-associated problems beyond sunburn just as humans can," says Ihrke. "Repetitive sun exposure can lead to chronic skin changes and sun-induced skin cancer just as it can in people."

Ihrke says the animals most at risk for sun-caused skin disease and cancer are those with short, white coats, light-colored skin and sparse tummy fur. Breeds that fit these characteristics include Dalmatians, bull terriers, Staffordshire bull terriers, whippets, Italian greyhounds and greyhounds. The more sun, the greater the risk, he says, noting that dogs who like to sunbathe and are permitted to do so are at the greatest risk.

Skin cancer can hit dogs as young as 4 years old, he says, which is why prevention is extremely important. Decreasing exposure is the only way to protect an animal from sun-related problems.

"Preventing sunbathing, roofs over outdoor runs, and solar protective T-shirts or dog shirts can be very helpful," says Ihrke. "We also recommend waterproof pediatric or children's sunscreens. Sunscreens designed for children are less likely to be irritating and commonly do not have scents added."

Brand names mentioned by Ihrke as being safe for use on pets include Johnson & Johnson's Waterbabies, Bullfrog waterproof and EltaBlock waterproof. The benefit of waterproof products, says Ihrke, is that they're also dog-saliva-proof.

To find a board-certified veterinary dermatologist, go to the Web site of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology (www.acvd.org) and click on "Find a Dermatologist."

Q: We took our golden mix Sadie to the dog park and noticed that wild mushrooms are becoming a problem again. A few of us picked them all and put them in the trash, but we thought it might be worth a reminder for all dog lovers to be careful. Would you pass the word along? -- A.F., via e-mail

A: Yes, cooler weather does bring different hazards, among them the return of wild mushrooms. Although curious puppies are probably most at risk of eating one, even grown dogs aren't immune from their appeal. Some dogs will eat anything that looks even remotely edible, after all.

It's always a good idea to check the areas your dog frequents, looking not only for poisoning risks such as wild mushrooms, but also other hazards such as loose fence boards, broken gate latches and more. While walking your dog, keep him on leash and be alert to anything he might try to grab for a "snack."

If you think your dog has eaten a wild mushroom, call your veterinarian immediately.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Denver shelter offers great advice -- for free

You don't have to live in Colorado to take advantage of one of the best collections of behavior information anywhere, easy to find on the Web site of the Denver Dumb Friends League (www.ddfl.org/tips.htm).

The DDFL is a pioneer in offering pet-behavior advice geared not only to helping new pet owners get off to a good start, but also to dissuading others from giving up an animal whose behavior is putting it at risk. The site offers care and training advice on everything from dogs and cats to ferrets, rabbits and rats. There are also a limited number of behavior sheets that have been translated into Spanish.

The section on problem-solving dog and cat behavior challenges is superb, with up-to-date information presented in a concise, easy-to-understand format.

There's no charge to get the help you need, but it would be nice to leave a donation to support this nonprofit organization. There's a link to help you do so right on the page.

PET RX

Clean up carefully after antifreeze spills

Fall is the time of year when shade-tree mechanics traditionally check the antifreeze in their vehicles. It's also the time of year when a lot of animals will die from ingesting this sweet-tasting poison.

You have two ways to protect your pet from antifreeze poisoning, one relatively foolproof, the other not.

Not foolproof: Use a safer antifreeze made from a different formulation than the more popular variety, store chemicals properly, and wipe up spills promptly. While this should eliminate most of the risk for dogs, these strategies are not foolproof for free-roaming cats, because they cannot control what your neighbors will do when it comes to using or storing deadly chemicals.

Foolproof: Keep cats from roaming. Free-roaming cats have relatively short lifespans because the outside world is full of deadly hazards. To antifreeze, add cars, coyotes (yes, even in urban areas) and cat-hating neighbors to the list of things that can kill a free-roaming cat.

If you even suspect a pet has gotten into antifreeze, take the animal to your veterinarian immediately. There's no "wait and see" period with this stuff.

Please support efforts to force manufacturers to add bittering agents to antifreeze. Pets aren't the only ones at risk from this sweet-tasting chemical: Children have also been killed.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Proper storage helps prevent food problems

What's the point of buying a high-quality pet food if you're going to damage or destroy its nutritional value by not storing it properly?

The Whole Dog Journal reports in its October issue that even those who pay top dollar for kibble often don't think twice about storing the food in ways that may reduce its nutritional value, shorten its shelf life and even turn it into something that may make pets ill.

In short, dry pet food should be stored in a cool, dry place, and maintained in its original packaging. The means no keeping those economy-sized bags in the garage, especially in summer, and no dumping loose kibble into metal trash cans or plastic containers that are not intended for storing food.

The Whole Dog Journal is $20 for 13 issues from P.O. Box 420031, Palm Coast, FL 32142-8624. Or call 1-800-424-7887, or subscribe online at www.whole-dog-journal.com.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My first exposure to serious dog training came almost a quarter-century ago in a class taught by a man who'd trained dogs for the Air Force. His method was direct: The dog was to execute the command or be promptly corrected. His tool for training: the choke collar.

Used properly, he explained, the collar didn't choke the dog. Pull the leash quickly to pop the collar tight against the dog's neck and make the correction, and then let the leash go slack to release the collar.

I had a decent sense of timing and a bright dog, so I did well, took more classes, competed in obedience trials and later taught my own dog-training classes. As a trainer of group classes, I became frustrated with the choke-chain collar. People couldn't help but put it on upside-down, so it wouldn't release easily. And the timing of the snap-and-release action, even if the collar was on right, was too difficult for many people to master.

And there was one more problem. Used incorrectly, the choke-chain collar was more than ineffective: It was cruel.

Which is why in recent years I've been delighted to see the development of alternatives to the choke chain. These products are easier to master and easier on the dog, and they make possible one of the greatest pleasures in keeping a dog: taking a nice long walk with your friend.

Pat Miller, of Hagerstown, Md., an author, dog trainer and past president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, is supportive of no-chain training. "I do not advocate their use, even properly, due to the potential for physical injury and damage to the dog-human relationship," she says. "Many dogs train perfectly well on a flat collar, and the new front-clip control harnesses are a wonderful option."

Of the two no-chain methods of gaining control of a dog on-leash, head halters have been around longer. They work on the same principal in use for generations with horses: Control the head, and the body will follow. Canine head halters have two loops: one that fits over the top of the nose, and another that fits high over the back of the neck. Pressure on the leash pulls down on the loops from below.

"When a dog pulls on a leash, pressure on the dog's nose turns him back toward the person holding the leash, making it difficult for the dog to pull," explains Miller. "The halter also seems to have a depressing effect on some dogs, dampening out-of-control energy. The dog learns to walk politely on the leash in order to avoid the unpleasant pressure on his nose when he pulls."

The downside to a head halter, says Miller, is that some dogs don't like them, and they'll rub or claw at a halter even after they've been acclimated to it. Halters can also be difficult for some people to put on and adjust properly, which is why it's best to have the halter fitted by a trainer or a knowledgeable employee of a pet-supply store. Miller says that when she chooses a halter, it's usually for dogs who require a higher level of head control, such as an aggressive animal.

The new front-snap harnesses also work to use the dog's own forward motion to train him not to pull, says Miller.

"The new harnesses have a ring in the front where the leash attaches, so you get the same turning effect as the head halter. The pressure is on the shoulders, not the nose, so dogs find it less objectionable," she says. "I have not had even one dog fight the front-clip harness the way that many fight the head halter."

If you've been struggling to walk your dog, and especially if you've given up trying, it's time to break the chain and have your dog fitted for a head halter or front-clip harness. You'll both enjoy being able to walk together again.

SIDEBAR

Head halters are easy to find in pet-supply stores, catalogs and from online merchants. The Gentle Leader (around $20, depending on size) is perhaps the best-known of the brands, and was invented by a veterinary behaviorist and a dog trainer. For online information, go to www.premier.com. The site shows proper fitting and some training techniques.

Two front-clip harnesses are available, although these newer products haven't made the move to many mainstream pet-supply outlets and are available primarily from trainers, shelters or specialty training Web sites, as well as from their manufacturers.

The SENSE-sation harness (from $20 to $25, depending on size) is available from manufacturer SofTouch Concepts Inc. (www.softouchconcepts.com, 866-305-6145). The company is planning to launch a similar lower-priced product this fall, called the SENSE-ible harness. The K-9 Freedom harness (same price range) is available from Wayne Hightower (www.waynehightower.com, 800-246-6336).

THE SCOOP

Healthy rabbits need hay, green vegetables

While rabbit pellets are the basis of a healthy diet, you should supplement your bunny's rations with fresh greens. Fiber is especially important, too, which is why your rabbits need an endless supply of grass hay to nibble on -- fresh timothy and oat.

Rabbit-friendly foods include dandelion greens and flowers (collected from pesticide-free areas), carrots and carrot tops, kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, endive, Swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, green peppers, pea pods, Brussels sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy and spinach. Ask your store's produce department for leaves trimmed from heads of broccoli or cauliflower, and you might even get some bunny food for free.

Variety is the spice of life, so keep things mixed up.

Offer fresh greens loosely chopped, two or more cups per day. If you haven't given your rabbit greens before, start with small amounts to avoid messy diarrhea caused by the sudden increase in liquid (fresh veggies are high in water content).

PETS ON THE WEB

Site offers the basics on popular corn snakes

Corn snakes are among the most popular of reptilian pets, prized for the striking appearance and generally easygoing nature. The Cornsnake Site (www.stormpages.com/dracoslair/Snakes/cornsnakes.html) offers a lot of information about these pets from someone who clearly adores them. Most endearing offering: "The Top 10 Reasons to Own a Cornsnake," including: "They have so many personalities ... just like people. Each snake you get is different. They almost never bite."

The site also mentions that unlike a boa constrictor, a corn snake will never get big enough to consume your baby sister.

The links are among the best features of this site and include a mention of www.kingsnake.com, one of the must-see sites for any reptile fancier. Although not mentioned on The Cornsnake Site, www.anapsid.org is another site that anyone with a reptile should have bookmarked for reference.

SECONDARY PIECE

New pet profiler can provide peace of mind

Not long ago I received an e-mail from a reader who'd been hospitalized for a stroke and had been separated from her dog for several months as a result. Things went pretty well for both the reader and her dog. But looking back, she wished she'd put together a folder of information on her pet -- the food he liked, the commands he knew, even the dog park where his buddies would hang out.

While it's certainly possible to pull together all that information on our own, we may not think about the questions to ask ourselves in compiling it. Or we may not ever get around to it without someone to nudge us.

Enter Leslie Straka, a Seattle-area professional organizer whose Friends Forever system is designed to provide all the information anyone would need to care for your pet if you should become unable to.

"This is for people who treat their pets as a member of the family, not just a dog who's outside," says Straka. "It's a single document that puts it all in one place, and it takes care of your pet when you're not there."

Straka started offering the service by going to people's houses and interviewing them, then entering the information in a computer program designed by her husband, Dan Shapiro, who has worked in software development for Microsoft. She soon realized the need for such a product was universal and decided to expand to a telephone-based service.

The price for the telephone service starts at $89.95, which includes time on the phone, with Straka getting all the information she needs, and a report that's sent to your home by mail. There are additional charges for extra pets or for additional documents tailored to specific needs.

Straka sent me a fictional report for the cartoon dog Snoopy, and the scope of the information was impressive, with five questions on feeding alone. A finished report can run more than 50 pages, complete with images of the pet.

Starting later this year, Straka plans to offer the service on the Web at www.alwaysafriend.com. For more information on the Friends Forever service, visit the Web site or call 425-922-3760.

Q&A

Vaccine guidelines changed for cats, too

Q: You wrote recently about vaccines for dogs, but I know that recommendations have changed for cats, too. We're planning on getting a kitten soon. Can you go over what shots are recommended? -- D.W., via e-mail

A: Like puppies, kittens need a series of vaccinations to protect them as they grow. Young mammals pick up antibodies from their mothers through the placenta and in the special milk, called colostrum, that they drink in the first days of their lives. These antibodies diminish over time. But until they do, they not only protect the kitten against disease, but they also may block the usefulness of any vaccine.

Although it's technically possible to determine exactly when a kitten's maternal antibodies have fallen to the point where a vaccine is necessary, doing so is impractical. That's why veterinarians give a series of shots to ensure that the kitten is protected as those maternal antibodies fade.

Here are some general vaccine guidelines for kittens.

Core vaccines: A combination vaccine gives protection against feline herpes virus, feline calicivirus and feline panleukopenia virus. The first combination vaccine is given when a kitten first comes in to see the veterinarian with additional shots at three- to four-week intervals until 16 weeks of age.

Vaccination against rabies is highly recommended for cats and may be required by law depending on where you live. Kittens get one shot with an annual booster, and then shots at three-year intervals, or as required by law.

Non-core vaccines: The need for all other vaccines should be discussed with your veterinarian. Some experts question the how well some of the non-core vaccines work, while others recommend non-core vaccines only for those cats who are at high risk for disease, such as pets allowed to roam outside.

Feline leukemia is one vaccine that should be considered, unless you're planning to keep your cat indoors. Kittens are tested for feline leukemia, then given one shot with a booster three to four weeks later.

The vaccine for feline infectious peritonitis is controversial, and some experts recommend it should be considered only for those cats living in large multi-cat households or breeding operations. Talk to your veterinarian about when the vaccine should be given, if at all.

If you are getting multiple vaccinations for your kitten, discuss spreading the vaccines out and not having more than one or two inoculations given in any one visit. If too many shots are administered at one time, the potential for reactions or interactions may be greater.

In adult cats, the risk of vaccine-site sarcoma -- cancer at the injection site -- must be taken into account when weighing the risks of vaccines vs. their benefits. The trend overall is to tailor vaccines to the lifestyles of individual cats, to increase the amount of time between boosters, and to give shots at various times, in different places on the body. Keep an eye on vaccine sites, and report any lump that grows or persists more than a couple of weeks.

A good overview of the American Academy of Feline Practitioners recommendations on vaccines can be found on the Winn Feline Foundation's Web site at www.winnfelinehealth.org/health/vaccination-guidelines.html.

The bottom line: Discuss with your veterinarian what vaccinations your kitten needs, what risks are involved, and how you can best minimize those risks. Keep in mind, however, that despite the risks, vaccines still prevent many times more death than they cause.

A good veterinarian will be following the changing view of routine vaccinations and should be up on the latest recommendations in preventive care for your new kitten.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS RX

Are those ... pimples?

Did you know cats can get acne, too? Although most classic acne cases occur in cats who are simply not good chin groomers, there are other possibilities, including mites, ringworm and allergies.

You'll need the help of your veterinarian to get your cat's chin cleared up. The area needs to be kept washed, at the very least, resisting the urge to squeeze any blemishes. You may additionally get prescribed creams and pills.

Since some cases are caused by an allergy to plastic, your veterinarian will probably also recommend switching to ceramic or stainless food and water dishes, and keeping them scrupulously clean.

Ordinary feline acne is more of an aesthetic dilemma than a serious health concern. As long as the area doesn't become infected, your cat won't be bothered by the blemishes.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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