Make sure you're right for a retriever

It's a hot day at the dog park, and I'm sharing the shade with the other "doggy parents," chatting while we watch our pets play.

In the middle of the park, the dogs have dug out a crater the size of a small hot tub. The sprinklers fill the pit every morning, and by afternoon, it's still at least half full of stinky, slimy, muddy water. It's disgusting, and most of the dogs have the common sense to avoid it.

Except the retrievers.

While not all of them see it as a swimming hole, most see no reason to avoid the muck, jumping in and out as they play. One retriever is even worse than the other water dogs. She throws herself into the muddy bog, rolling and wallowing until every inch of her glossy black coat is dripping brown with foul-smelling mud. She finally stands up, nose-to-tail-tip filthy and obviously delighted with herself.

"Oh my God!" says the woman next to me, her tone of disgust unmistakable. "Whose dog is that?"

"Um, that would be mine," I mumble.

Rule No. 1 for anyone who has or is thinking of adopting a retriever: Be willing to carry towels in your car at all times.

I love retrievers, and in this I'm not alone. The Labrador retriever is the top breed in the land; 144,934 of them were registered with the American Kennel Club in 2003. The golden retriever is the AKC's second most popular breed, with 52,530 recorded in the same year. All told, the six retriever breeds (the Chesapeake Bay, flat-coated, curly-coated and Nova Scotia duck tolling are the others) make up more than one-fifth of all AKC registrations.

Retrievers are popular for good reason. They're great family dogs, even-tempered, friendly and tolerant. They're generally easy to train and eager to please. They have coats that clean up quickly, and they don't shed as much as many other breeds. (Even my water-crazed Heather dries up and shakes off most of the muddy muck she gets into in just a few minutes.)

But anyone associated with a shelter or rescue group can tell you that despite their popularity, retrievers are not for everyone. They get dumped by the hundreds, often by people who didn't research the downside to owning one of these dogs or who proved unwilling to put in the effort it takes to keep one.

People, for example, who think muddy paws (or muddy dogs) are intolerable. Or those who aren't prepared to put time into training and exercising these large and exuberant animals. While some breeds and mixes can better tolerate the life of a "backyard dog" (although I never recommend this lonely life for any dog), retrievers are especially ill-suited to such isolation. Developed to work one-on-one with a hunter, the personable retriever does best as a full-fledged member of a family. Kept in a back yard, a retriever will get bored and anxious, and may become a digger, escape artist or nonstop barker.

Is a retriever right for you? Even if you're well-suited to these breeds, it pays to carefully consider any canine adoption. Like all purebreds, retrievers have congenital health problems that can make your dog miserable and cost you a bundle, if indeed they can be treated. If you're buying a puppy, be sure to find a reputable breeder who has had the parents certified free of these problems, most commonly hip dysplasia.

If you're considering an adult dog, you'll be able to assess health and temperament with the aid of the shelter or rescue group. A lot of great dogs turn up in shelters and rescue groups, many with some training and such preventive-care measures as vaccinations and neutering already done. Another reason to go for an adult: Retrievers are notoriously slow to mature, and can maintain troublesome puppy behaviors well into the second or third year of their lives. If you want a mellow retriever, get an older dog.

I love retrievers, especially my own two. But I brought them into my life knowing they'd need a lot from me to keep their minds and bodies in good shape. And even though I occasionally wince at the water-related messes they get into, I'd never trade Benjamin or even Heather at her filthiest for any other dogs in the world.

Q&A

Visiting son says dog must go

Q: My son gets annoyed when my small dog is around when he visits. He is coming up for a few days, and I would like it to be a good visit. Would it be OK if I were to keep my dog in his cage, which he never uses anymore, until my son says it's OK to let him out? -- M.G., via e-mail

A: I'm going to resist asking a question like, "What on earth is your son's problem with having your dog do as you want in your own home?" (Assuming your dog is neither vicious nor ill-mannered, of course.) But no, I won't ask that, nor will I add that in my home, if you don't like my furred, finned and feathered family, you are welcome not to visit.

Having resisted those less-than-polite urges, I will, in the interests of family peace, assure you that it won't hurt your dog to chill out in a crate or carrier for a couple of days until your company has come and gone. Another alternative: Do you have a friend who wouldn't mind taking your dog for the duration of your son's visit?

Don't guess gender

Q: I just got a yellow-naped Amazon parrot through a newspaper ad. How can I tell if this bird is a boy or a girl? The seller didn't know. -- A.R., via e-mail

A: You'll need the help of a veterinarian to solve this mystery. He'll draw a blood sample, and the laboratory will get the answer from the bird's DNA. Seeing an avian veterinarian is a good idea anyway, to establish (or repair) the health of the bird and review proper care requirements for your new pet.

PET Rx

Rabbits need to eat roughage

Commercial rabbit pellets are the basis of a proper rabbit diet, but they're not enough to keep a pet happy and healthy. Feed no more than one-quarter cup of pellets per 5 pounds of body weight daily, and then supplement your rabbit's diet with fiber.

Grass hays such as timothy and oat are important for rabbits, along with fresh leafy green vegetables such as kale, collard greens, carrot tops and broccoli leaves. Rabbit-lovers learn to pick through the vegetable bins at the grocery store, or ask the produce manager for leafy pieces removed while trimming vegetables for human consumption.

TIP

Hairballs not a serious health threat

Gee, and to think I missed "National Hairball Awareness Day"! Despite a pet-food company's efforts to create concern and sell a special diet, hairballs are not a serious health issue for your cat. Sure, they're nothing you want to step on in bare feet in the middle of the night, but they're just part of living with a cat.

You can reduce the number of hairballs by grooming your cat regularly and by adding a little canned pumpkin to your pet's diet to increase the fiber and help the hair work its way through the system. Commercial preparations are fine, too, but it's really better to keep their use to a minimum. Frequent use of hairball remedies can decrease the absorption of some vitamins.

ON THE WEB

Taking your pet for a ride

If you have a small dog -- or an exceptionally tolerant cat -- and like to ride a bike, you might want to consider a basket designed for you to take your pet along. Cynthia's Twigs (www.cynthiastwigs.com; 888-404-1444, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. EST) offers European-style willow baskets that slip over the handlebars of your bike and give your pet a safe place to ride.

Back-rack baskets are also available, along with harnesses to keep pets in place. Prices for these lovely baskets range from $20 to $50. The Web site also includes instructions on teaching a pet to stay put.

Site promotes aiding feral cats

Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org) is a group advocating for the humane treatment of feral cats, which many people see as pests. The group argues that removing cats gone wild doesn't get rid of the problem, and that more cats will move into any vacated space.

What they advocate instead is a program called "trap, neuter and release," which allows non-reproducing cats to "hold space" in an area, allowing populations to fall humanely. Cat colonies are then managed by volunteers, who keep the animals healthy and fed to minimize the potential for damage and complaints.

THE SCOOP

So, you wanna iguana?

The relatively low price of baby green iguanas has prompted many an impulse purchase of these popular reptiles. But iguanas are not easy keepers, and few people are prepared to care for the lifelong needs of a pet that can reach 5 feet or more in length at maturity.

A good setup is crucial, and so is a proper diet. Calcium requirements are probably the most often ignored, with deadly consequences, since the long-term lack of this nutrient can leave a pet with a rubber jaw he can't use to feed himself.

Here are some tips to keep an iguana in good shape.

-- Diet: Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay and squash.

Chop the vegetables into a size that can be easily handled by the pet, mix well, and then store in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day, and sprinkle the food with a calcium supplement, available at a pet store. This diet can be supplemented by commercial foods.

Water should be available for both bathing and drinking. A ceramic dish in the enclosure is a must; many iguanas also like being sprayed with mist.

-- Housing: The bigger the better. Cages or aquariums must be kept scrupulously clean and dry to prevent bacterial or fungal diseases. The iguana's cage should be lined with newspapers or, better yet, clean newsprint. (Roll ends of clean newsprint are available from many newspapers.) Other possibilities include indoor-outdoor carpeting, Astroturf or even paper towel squares. Avoid sawdust, litter, wood shavings or gravel. Silk artificial plants can improve the appearance of the enclosure and are easy to keep clean. Provide your pet with a place to hide, such as a cardboard box, and some branches for climbing.

Uneaten food and soiled areas must be promptly removed. For disinfecting, avoid pine oil cleaners and use a solution of 1 part bleach to 30 parts water. Remember that proper sanitation and handling is essential for your protection as well as your pet's. Salmonella is a risk when proper hygiene procedures aren't followed.

-- Heat and light: Forget hot rocks -- too many pets have been burned with them. Instead, use a heating pad or under-cage strip designed for use with reptiles, or a ceramic basking lamp, which emits heat but no light.

Captive reptiles need ultraviolet B light from an artificial source. Pet stores sell lightbulbs that provide the proper light for iguanas. It's best to approximate natural conditions by supplying 10 to 12 hours of light per day.

One of the best sources for iguana information is Anapsid.org/iguana, run by Melissa Kaplan, who's also author of the excellent "Iguanas for Dummies."

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

SCAREDY CAT

Some cats need to be taught how to enjoy being petted

One of my friends has a cat who adores her so much that he follows when she walks the family dog. A notorious cat-about-town, he stops his prowling at exactly the time his beloved human should be coming home from work. If she's home, he's home, and usually within 20 feet of her.

But his adoration doesn't stop him from grabbing her arm while she's petting him, digging in his claws and delivering a not-so-gentle bite.

My friend is quite certain her cat is crazy. I know he's just one of those cats who don't handle stimulation well. The good news: Her cat thinks she's the center of the universe. The better news: The cat can be trained to treat her that way, too.

Both genetics and social factors contribute to how likely a cat is to bite or claw while being petted. Some cats are born with short fuses; others are made that way (or made worse) through a lack of early socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods. That's why it's important to never let a kitten come to believe fingers are for chewing on, even in play. Redirect your kitten's playful energy to toys instead. And never hit a kitten or cat for biting, since you'll make it more likely, not less, that your pet will strike faster in fear and self-defense the next time.

Natural activity levels also play a part in how much petting a cat will tolerate. Cats from large-breed backgrounds (think Maine coon) are generally mellow in temperament, willing to sit quietly while being petted. So-called Oriental breeds or mixes (think Siamese or Burmese) are usually more interested in being on the go.

But no matter how hair-trigger the setting on your cat's attack mode, you can work to increase your pet's tolerance for petting by paying close attention to his body language as you slowly increase the amount of time during which he'll calmly accept your attention.

You should also be aware that some places are more sensitive than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses at first to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are well-outnumbered by the cats who'll seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Work to build your cat's tolerance to touch over time. When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.

Pet him in less-reactive areas on his body, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that early warning sign, stop petting and let your cat leave if he wants to. The idea is to work up to just short of the point where your pet becomes uncomfortable and then stop, so you can gradually increase his tolerance for petting. For some cats, the addition of treats during petting can also help the reconditioning process.

If you miss the signs and end up in your cat's non-affectionate embrace, just freeze. Providing no resistance will help calm your cat so he'll just let go, usually in a few seconds. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, you are more likely to get bitten or scratched in the short run, and damage your relationship with your pet in the long run.

Be patient, and be satisfied with small improvements as you go. As any cat lover will tell you, teaching your cat to tolerate petting is well worth the effort -- for both of you.

Q&A

Weigh options before deciding on a trainer

Q: We are having some behavioral problems with our 18-month-old boxer, and we are considering sending her to a two-week course for training. What are your thoughts on training dogs in this manner, removed from her owners and her regular environment? -- J.D., via e-mail

A: The answer depends on what "behavior problems" are troubling you. Will the difficulty you're having be solved if your dog is taught the basic commands -- sit, down, stay, come? Or are the problems ones your dog may not exhibit in a kennel environment, such as counter-cruising, destructiveness, aggression or separation anxiety?

If it's basic obedience you want from your dog, then, yes, a couple of weeks away with a reputable trainer can be very helpful. The caveat: You need to be willing to learn how to handle your dog when she returns home, and commit to keeping up the training. Otherwise, you're pretty much wasting your money.

If it's any behavior issue other than general obedience commands, I think you're better off working with a trainer or behaviorist who'll meet with your family in the home, observe both the dog and how you interact with her, and set up a program for you all to follow.

Either way, don't hire a trainer unless you are comfortable with his or her methods, and comfortable, as well, that the trainer will tailor those methods to the personality of your dog. Dog-training was once almost solely reliant on hard-nosed methods derived from the military; recent years have seen a swing to motivational training based on work with performing animals in such environments as marine parks. As a result, you'll find all kinds of trainers with all kinds of methods out there today.

The trainer you choose should be able to explain which methods she or he believes to be best for your dog, and why. I also like to see certification from a dog-trainer's association, which shows an interest in keeping up on current theory and techniques. Finally, check references and, if you're leaving your dog, check the trainer's facilities.

ON THE WEB

Site unleashes dog park news

More than 1,000 dog parks can be found in the United States and Canada, according to the Dogpark Web site (www.dogpark.com). That's a nifty bit of news and reason to celebrate. And you'll find lots more on this site, such as information on dog care and health, tips on toys and games, and features on dogs and their people.

Dogpark.com even has a store for picking up necessary dog-park equipment, such as the Chuck-it, which allows for slobber-free tennis ball throwing. The site also maintains an e-mail list for discussions of dog-park advocacy, design and etiquette.

PET SAVE

Toys add spice to pets' lives

Toys are not optional equipment for caged pets. The life of these pets can be very dull, and toys help keep the mind and body happy. Some of the best toys for small pets can be had for little or no money at all.

For rabbits and guinea pigs, or cockatiels and other small parrots, the cores from toilet paper and paper towels are wonderful to play with and destroy, as are fiber place mats from any import store. Toy keys made of hard plastic are also popular with these pets, and you can usually find them at a better price in the baby section than the pet section.

Cat-toy freebies include the retainer ring off the caps of plastic milk jugs, along with champagne corks, empty film containers, and empty cardboard boxes or paper shopping bags.

PET Rx

Any bird injury can be serious

If your bird is bitten or clawed by a cat or dog, you need to get veterinary help right away. Bite or claw wounds are potentially deadly to birds, even if the injury appears minor.

Dogs and cats are able predators, and their jaws are quite capable not only of piercing the skin of a bird but also of crushing internal organs and breaking bones. Even a bird who seems to have escaped an attack with a small bite or scratch can fall victim to infection. Birds with no visible signs of injury can still end up dead without veterinary intervention.

If your bird is attacked, contact your veterinarian right away. Your bird may need to be treated for shock, infection or internal injuries, and very likely should be started on antibiotics as soon as possible.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network, an online service for veterinary professionals. To find a VIN member veterinarian, visit www.vetquest.com.)

THE SCOOP

How to keep the dog fur from flying

Is there any way to tame the dog-hair monster? You bet! With regular grooming and a few well-chosen tools, you can keep shedding to a minimum.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Seasonal shedding is most pronounced in double-coated breeds such as collies and malamutes, who lose copious amounts of fur from their soft undercoats in spring and fall.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific grooming advice from your breeder, a breed reference book or breed-specific Web site when it comes to choosing grooming tools and learning how to use them.

Seasonal shedding can be tamed with a tool that's a loop of metal with teeth on one side, attached to a comfortable handle. Available from different manufacturers, the shedding loop tool should cost less than $15. Pricier but extremely effective is the Mars Coat King ($25-$40, depending on size), which strips out undercoat and keeps things manageable for dogs with wire-haired coats or those of medium length, as well as the double-coated variety. A loop tool should be available at any pet store, but the Coat King will likely have to be ordered from a specialty catalog such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800- 524-0820) or J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies (www.jbpet.com; 800-526-0388).

Grooming tools will stay sharper and last longer if you bathe your dog before working on the coat. Mats should be removed before bathing. Large ones should be cut out, while smaller ones can be gently teased apart with a comb after corn starch is worked into them.

No matter what the breed or mix of dog, shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull, or you notice excessive hair loss.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

SCAREDY CAT

Some cats need to be taught how to enjoy being petted

One of my friends has a cat who adores her so much that he follows when she walks the family dog. A notorious cat-about-town, he stops his prowling at exactly the time his beloved human should be coming home from work. If she's home, he's home, and usually within 20 feet of her.

But his adoration doesn't stop him from grabbing her arm while she's petting him, digging in his claws and delivering a not-so-gentle bite.

My friend is quite certain her cat is crazy. I know he's just one of those cats who don't handle stimulation well. The good news: Her cat thinks she's the center of the universe. The better news: The cat can be trained to treat her that way, too.

Both genetics and social factors contribute to how likely a cat is to bite or claw while being petted. Some cats are born with short fuses; others are made that way (or made worse) through a lack of early socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods. That's why it's important to never let a kitten come to believe fingers are for chewing on, even in play. Redirect your kitten's playful energy to toys instead. And never hit a kitten or cat for biting, since you'll make it more likely, not less, that your pet will strike faster in fear and self-defense the next time.

Natural activity levels also play a part in how much petting a cat will tolerate. Cats from large-breed backgrounds (think Maine coon) are generally mellow in temperament, willing to sit quietly while being petted. So-called Oriental breeds or mixes (think Siamese or Burmese) are usually more interested in being on the go.

But no matter how hair-trigger the setting on your cat's attack mode, you can work to increase your pet's tolerance for petting by paying close attention to his body language as you slowly increase the amount of time during which he'll calmly accept your attention.

You should also be aware that some places are more sensitive than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses at first to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are well-outnumbered by the cats who'll seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Work to build your cat's tolerance to touch over time. When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.

Pet him in less-reactive areas on his body, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that early warning sign, stop petting and let your cat leave if he wants to. The idea is to work up to just short of the point where your pet becomes uncomfortable and then stop, so you can gradually increase his tolerance for petting. For some cats, the addition of treats during petting can also help the reconditioning process.

If you miss the signs and end up in your cat's non-affectionate embrace, just freeze. Providing no resistance will help calm your cat so he'll just let go, usually in a few seconds. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, you are more likely to get bitten or scratched in the short run, and damage your relationship with your pet in the long run.

Be patient, and be satisfied with small improvements as you go. As any cat lover will tell you, teaching your cat to tolerate petting is well worth the effort -- for both of you.

Q&A

Weigh options before deciding on a trainer

Q: We are having some behavioral problems with our 18-month-old boxer, and we are considering sending her to a two-week course for training. What are your thoughts on training dogs in this manner, removed from her owners and her regular environment? -- J.D., via e-mail

A: The answer depends on what "behavior problems" are troubling you. Will the difficulty you're having be solved if your dog is taught the basic commands -- sit, down, stay, come? Or are the problems ones your dog may not exhibit in a kennel environment, such as counter-cruising, destructiveness, aggression or separation anxiety?

If it's basic obedience you want from your dog, then, yes, a couple of weeks away with a reputable trainer can be very helpful. The caveat: You need to be willing to learn how to handle your dog when she returns home, and commit to keeping up the training. Otherwise, you're pretty much wasting your money.

If it's any behavior issue other than general obedience commands, I think you're better off working with a trainer or behaviorist who'll meet with your family in the home, observe both the dog and how you interact with her, and set up a program for you all to follow.

Either way, don't hire a trainer unless you are comfortable with his or her methods, and comfortable, as well, that the trainer will tailor those methods to the personality of your dog. Dog-training was once almost solely reliant on hard-nosed methods derived from the military; recent years have seen a swing to motivational training based on work with performing animals in such environments as marine parks. As a result, you'll find all kinds of trainers with all kinds of methods out there today.

The trainer you choose should be able to explain which methods she or he believes to be best for your dog, and why. I also like to see certification from a dog-trainer's association, which shows an interest in keeping up on current theory and techniques. Finally, check references and, if you're leaving your dog, check the trainer's facilities.

ON THE WEB

Site unleashes dog park news

More than 1,000 dog parks can be found in the United States and Canada, according to the Dogpark Web site (www.dogpark.com). That's a nifty bit of news and reason to celebrate. And you'll find lots more on this site, such as information on dog care and health, tips on toys and games, and features on dogs and their people.

Dogpark.com even has a store for picking up necessary dog-park equipment, such as the Chuck-it, which allows for slobber-free tennis ball throwing. The site also maintains an e-mail list for discussions of dog-park advocacy, design and etiquette.

PET SAVE

Toys add spice to pets' lives

Toys are not optional equipment for caged pets. The life of these pets can be very dull, and toys help keep the mind and body happy. Some of the best toys for small pets can be had for little or no money at all.

For rabbits and guinea pigs, or cockatiels and other small parrots, the cores from toilet paper and paper towels are wonderful to play with and destroy, as are fiber place mats from any import store. Toy keys made of hard plastic are also popular with these pets, and you can usually find them at a better price in the baby section than the pet section.

Cat-toy freebies include the retainer ring off the caps of plastic milk jugs, along with champagne corks, empty film containers, and empty cardboard boxes or paper shopping bags.

PET Rx

Any bird injury can be serious

If your bird is bitten or clawed by a cat or dog, you need to get veterinary help right away. Bite or claw wounds are potentially deadly to birds, even if the injury appears minor.

Dogs and cats are able predators, and their jaws are quite capable not only of piercing the skin of a bird but also of crushing internal organs and breaking bones. Even a bird who seems to have escaped an attack with a small bite or scratch can fall victim to infection. Birds with no visible signs of injury can still end up dead without veterinary intervention.

If your bird is attacked, contact your veterinarian right away. Your bird may need to be treated for shock, infection or internal injuries, and very likely should be started on antibiotics as soon as possible.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network, an online service for veterinary professionals. To find a VIN member veterinarian, visit www.vetquest.com.)

THE SCOOP

How to keep the dog fur from flying

Is there any way to tame the dog-hair monster? You bet! With regular grooming and a few well-chosen tools, you can keep shedding to a minimum.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Seasonal shedding is most pronounced in double-coated breeds such as collies and malamutes, who lose copious amounts of fur from their soft undercoats in spring and fall.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific grooming advice from your breeder, a breed reference book or breed-specific Web site when it comes to choosing grooming tools and learning how to use them.

Seasonal shedding can be tamed with a tool that's a loop of metal with teeth on one side, attached to a comfortable handle. Available from different manufacturers, the shedding loop tool should cost less than $15. Pricier but extremely effective is the Mars Coat King ($25-$40, depending on size), which strips out undercoat and keeps things manageable for dogs with wire-haired coats or those of medium length, as well as the double-coated variety. A loop tool should be available at any pet store, but the Coat King will likely have to be ordered from a specialty catalog such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800- 524-0820) or J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies (www.jbpet.com; 800-526-0388).

Grooming tools will stay sharper and last longer if you bathe your dog before working on the coat. Mats should be removed before bathing. Large ones should be cut out, while smaller ones can be gently teased apart with a comb after corn starch is worked into them.

No matter what the breed or mix of dog, shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull, or you notice excessive hair loss.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600