SCAREDY CAT

Some cats need to be taught how to enjoy being petted

One of my friends has a cat who adores her so much that he follows when she walks the family dog. A notorious cat-about-town, he stops his prowling at exactly the time his beloved human should be coming home from work. If she's home, he's home, and usually within 20 feet of her.

But his adoration doesn't stop him from grabbing her arm while she's petting him, digging in his claws and delivering a not-so-gentle bite.

My friend is quite certain her cat is crazy. I know he's just one of those cats who don't handle stimulation well. The good news: Her cat thinks she's the center of the universe. The better news: The cat can be trained to treat her that way, too.

Both genetics and social factors contribute to how likely a cat is to bite or claw while being petted. Some cats are born with short fuses; others are made that way (or made worse) through a lack of early socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods. That's why it's important to never let a kitten come to believe fingers are for chewing on, even in play. Redirect your kitten's playful energy to toys instead. And never hit a kitten or cat for biting, since you'll make it more likely, not less, that your pet will strike faster in fear and self-defense the next time.

Natural activity levels also play a part in how much petting a cat will tolerate. Cats from large-breed backgrounds (think Maine coon) are generally mellow in temperament, willing to sit quietly while being petted. So-called Oriental breeds or mixes (think Siamese or Burmese) are usually more interested in being on the go.

But no matter how hair-trigger the setting on your cat's attack mode, you can work to increase your pet's tolerance for petting by paying close attention to his body language as you slowly increase the amount of time during which he'll calmly accept your attention.

You should also be aware that some places are more sensitive than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses at first to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are well-outnumbered by the cats who'll seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Work to build your cat's tolerance to touch over time. When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.

Pet him in less-reactive areas on his body, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that early warning sign, stop petting and let your cat leave if he wants to. The idea is to work up to just short of the point where your pet becomes uncomfortable and then stop, so you can gradually increase his tolerance for petting. For some cats, the addition of treats during petting can also help the reconditioning process.

If you miss the signs and end up in your cat's non-affectionate embrace, just freeze. Providing no resistance will help calm your cat so he'll just let go, usually in a few seconds. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, you are more likely to get bitten or scratched in the short run, and damage your relationship with your pet in the long run.

Be patient, and be satisfied with small improvements as you go. As any cat lover will tell you, teaching your cat to tolerate petting is well worth the effort -- for both of you.

Q&A

Weigh options before deciding on a trainer

Q: We are having some behavioral problems with our 18-month-old boxer, and we are considering sending her to a two-week course for training. What are your thoughts on training dogs in this manner, removed from her owners and her regular environment? -- J.D., via e-mail

A: The answer depends on what "behavior problems" are troubling you. Will the difficulty you're having be solved if your dog is taught the basic commands -- sit, down, stay, come? Or are the problems ones your dog may not exhibit in a kennel environment, such as counter-cruising, destructiveness, aggression or separation anxiety?

If it's basic obedience you want from your dog, then, yes, a couple of weeks away with a reputable trainer can be very helpful. The caveat: You need to be willing to learn how to handle your dog when she returns home, and commit to keeping up the training. Otherwise, you're pretty much wasting your money.

If it's any behavior issue other than general obedience commands, I think you're better off working with a trainer or behaviorist who'll meet with your family in the home, observe both the dog and how you interact with her, and set up a program for you all to follow.

Either way, don't hire a trainer unless you are comfortable with his or her methods, and comfortable, as well, that the trainer will tailor those methods to the personality of your dog. Dog-training was once almost solely reliant on hard-nosed methods derived from the military; recent years have seen a swing to motivational training based on work with performing animals in such environments as marine parks. As a result, you'll find all kinds of trainers with all kinds of methods out there today.

The trainer you choose should be able to explain which methods she or he believes to be best for your dog, and why. I also like to see certification from a dog-trainer's association, which shows an interest in keeping up on current theory and techniques. Finally, check references and, if you're leaving your dog, check the trainer's facilities.

ON THE WEB

Site unleashes dog park news

More than 1,000 dog parks can be found in the United States and Canada, according to the Dogpark Web site (www.dogpark.com). That's a nifty bit of news and reason to celebrate. And you'll find lots more on this site, such as information on dog care and health, tips on toys and games, and features on dogs and their people.

Dogpark.com even has a store for picking up necessary dog-park equipment, such as the Chuck-it, which allows for slobber-free tennis ball throwing. The site also maintains an e-mail list for discussions of dog-park advocacy, design and etiquette.

PET SAVE

Toys add spice to pets' lives

Toys are not optional equipment for caged pets. The life of these pets can be very dull, and toys help keep the mind and body happy. Some of the best toys for small pets can be had for little or no money at all.

For rabbits and guinea pigs, or cockatiels and other small parrots, the cores from toilet paper and paper towels are wonderful to play with and destroy, as are fiber place mats from any import store. Toy keys made of hard plastic are also popular with these pets, and you can usually find them at a better price in the baby section than the pet section.

Cat-toy freebies include the retainer ring off the caps of plastic milk jugs, along with champagne corks, empty film containers, and empty cardboard boxes or paper shopping bags.

PET Rx

Any bird injury can be serious

If your bird is bitten or clawed by a cat or dog, you need to get veterinary help right away. Bite or claw wounds are potentially deadly to birds, even if the injury appears minor.

Dogs and cats are able predators, and their jaws are quite capable not only of piercing the skin of a bird but also of crushing internal organs and breaking bones. Even a bird who seems to have escaped an attack with a small bite or scratch can fall victim to infection. Birds with no visible signs of injury can still end up dead without veterinary intervention.

If your bird is attacked, contact your veterinarian right away. Your bird may need to be treated for shock, infection or internal injuries, and very likely should be started on antibiotics as soon as possible.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network, an online service for veterinary professionals. To find a VIN member veterinarian, visit www.vetquest.com.)

THE SCOOP

How to keep the dog fur from flying

Is there any way to tame the dog-hair monster? You bet! With regular grooming and a few well-chosen tools, you can keep shedding to a minimum.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Seasonal shedding is most pronounced in double-coated breeds such as collies and malamutes, who lose copious amounts of fur from their soft undercoats in spring and fall.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific grooming advice from your breeder, a breed reference book or breed-specific Web site when it comes to choosing grooming tools and learning how to use them.

Seasonal shedding can be tamed with a tool that's a loop of metal with teeth on one side, attached to a comfortable handle. Available from different manufacturers, the shedding loop tool should cost less than $15. Pricier but extremely effective is the Mars Coat King ($25-$40, depending on size), which strips out undercoat and keeps things manageable for dogs with wire-haired coats or those of medium length, as well as the double-coated variety. A loop tool should be available at any pet store, but the Coat King will likely have to be ordered from a specialty catalog such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800- 524-0820) or J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies (www.jbpet.com; 800-526-0388).

Grooming tools will stay sharper and last longer if you bathe your dog before working on the coat. Mats should be removed before bathing. Large ones should be cut out, while smaller ones can be gently teased apart with a comb after corn starch is worked into them.

No matter what the breed or mix of dog, shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull, or you notice excessive hair loss.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

SCAREDY CAT

Some cats need to be taught how to enjoy being petted

One of my friends has a cat who adores her so much that he follows when she walks the family dog. A notorious cat-about-town, he stops his prowling at exactly the time his beloved human should be coming home from work. If she's home, he's home, and usually within 20 feet of her.

But his adoration doesn't stop him from grabbing her arm while she's petting him, digging in his claws and delivering a not-so-gentle bite.

My friend is quite certain her cat is crazy. I know he's just one of those cats who don't handle stimulation well. The good news: Her cat thinks she's the center of the universe. The better news: The cat can be trained to treat her that way, too.

Both genetics and social factors contribute to how likely a cat is to bite or claw while being petted. Some cats are born with short fuses; others are made that way (or made worse) through a lack of early socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods. That's why it's important to never let a kitten come to believe fingers are for chewing on, even in play. Redirect your kitten's playful energy to toys instead. And never hit a kitten or cat for biting, since you'll make it more likely, not less, that your pet will strike faster in fear and self-defense the next time.

Natural activity levels also play a part in how much petting a cat will tolerate. Cats from large-breed backgrounds (think Maine coon) are generally mellow in temperament, willing to sit quietly while being petted. So-called Oriental breeds or mixes (think Siamese or Burmese) are usually more interested in being on the go.

But no matter how hair-trigger the setting on your cat's attack mode, you can work to increase your pet's tolerance for petting by paying close attention to his body language as you slowly increase the amount of time during which he'll calmly accept your attention.

You should also be aware that some places are more sensitive than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses at first to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are well-outnumbered by the cats who'll seek to stop it with teeth and claws.

Work to build your cat's tolerance to touch over time. When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.

Pet him in less-reactive areas on his body, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that early warning sign, stop petting and let your cat leave if he wants to. The idea is to work up to just short of the point where your pet becomes uncomfortable and then stop, so you can gradually increase his tolerance for petting. For some cats, the addition of treats during petting can also help the reconditioning process.

If you miss the signs and end up in your cat's non-affectionate embrace, just freeze. Providing no resistance will help calm your cat so he'll just let go, usually in a few seconds. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, you are more likely to get bitten or scratched in the short run, and damage your relationship with your pet in the long run.

Be patient, and be satisfied with small improvements as you go. As any cat lover will tell you, teaching your cat to tolerate petting is well worth the effort -- for both of you.

Q&A

Weigh options before deciding on a trainer

Q: We are having some behavioral problems with our 18-month-old boxer, and we are considering sending her to a two-week course for training. What are your thoughts on training dogs in this manner, removed from her owners and her regular environment? -- J.D., via e-mail

A: The answer depends on what "behavior problems" are troubling you. Will the difficulty you're having be solved if your dog is taught the basic commands -- sit, down, stay, come? Or are the problems ones your dog may not exhibit in a kennel environment, such as counter-cruising, destructiveness, aggression or separation anxiety?

If it's basic obedience you want from your dog, then, yes, a couple of weeks away with a reputable trainer can be very helpful. The caveat: You need to be willing to learn how to handle your dog when she returns home, and commit to keeping up the training. Otherwise, you're pretty much wasting your money.

If it's any behavior issue other than general obedience commands, I think you're better off working with a trainer or behaviorist who'll meet with your family in the home, observe both the dog and how you interact with her, and set up a program for you all to follow.

Either way, don't hire a trainer unless you are comfortable with his or her methods, and comfortable, as well, that the trainer will tailor those methods to the personality of your dog. Dog-training was once almost solely reliant on hard-nosed methods derived from the military; recent years have seen a swing to motivational training based on work with performing animals in such environments as marine parks. As a result, you'll find all kinds of trainers with all kinds of methods out there today.

The trainer you choose should be able to explain which methods she or he believes to be best for your dog, and why. I also like to see certification from a dog-trainer's association, which shows an interest in keeping up on current theory and techniques. Finally, check references and, if you're leaving your dog, check the trainer's facilities.

ON THE WEB

Site unleashes dog park news

More than 1,000 dog parks can be found in the United States and Canada, according to the Dogpark Web site (www.dogpark.com). That's a nifty bit of news and reason to celebrate. And you'll find lots more on this site, such as information on dog care and health, tips on toys and games, and features on dogs and their people.

Dogpark.com even has a store for picking up necessary dog-park equipment, such as the Chuck-it, which allows for slobber-free tennis ball throwing. The site also maintains an e-mail list for discussions of dog-park advocacy, design and etiquette.

PET SAVE

Toys add spice to pets' lives

Toys are not optional equipment for caged pets. The life of these pets can be very dull, and toys help keep the mind and body happy. Some of the best toys for small pets can be had for little or no money at all.

For rabbits and guinea pigs, or cockatiels and other small parrots, the cores from toilet paper and paper towels are wonderful to play with and destroy, as are fiber place mats from any import store. Toy keys made of hard plastic are also popular with these pets, and you can usually find them at a better price in the baby section than the pet section.

Cat-toy freebies include the retainer ring off the caps of plastic milk jugs, along with champagne corks, empty film containers, and empty cardboard boxes or paper shopping bags.

PET Rx

Any bird injury can be serious

If your bird is bitten or clawed by a cat or dog, you need to get veterinary help right away. Bite or claw wounds are potentially deadly to birds, even if the injury appears minor.

Dogs and cats are able predators, and their jaws are quite capable not only of piercing the skin of a bird but also of crushing internal organs and breaking bones. Even a bird who seems to have escaped an attack with a small bite or scratch can fall victim to infection. Birds with no visible signs of injury can still end up dead without veterinary intervention.

If your bird is attacked, contact your veterinarian right away. Your bird may need to be treated for shock, infection or internal injuries, and very likely should be started on antibiotics as soon as possible.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network, an online service for veterinary professionals. To find a VIN member veterinarian, visit www.vetquest.com.)

THE SCOOP

How to keep the dog fur from flying

Is there any way to tame the dog-hair monster? You bet! With regular grooming and a few well-chosen tools, you can keep shedding to a minimum.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Seasonal shedding is most pronounced in double-coated breeds such as collies and malamutes, who lose copious amounts of fur from their soft undercoats in spring and fall.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific grooming advice from your breeder, a breed reference book or breed-specific Web site when it comes to choosing grooming tools and learning how to use them.

Seasonal shedding can be tamed with a tool that's a loop of metal with teeth on one side, attached to a comfortable handle. Available from different manufacturers, the shedding loop tool should cost less than $15. Pricier but extremely effective is the Mars Coat King ($25-$40, depending on size), which strips out undercoat and keeps things manageable for dogs with wire-haired coats or those of medium length, as well as the double-coated variety. A loop tool should be available at any pet store, but the Coat King will likely have to be ordered from a specialty catalog such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800- 524-0820) or J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies (www.jbpet.com; 800-526-0388).

Grooming tools will stay sharper and last longer if you bathe your dog before working on the coat. Mats should be removed before bathing. Large ones should be cut out, while smaller ones can be gently teased apart with a comb after corn starch is worked into them.

No matter what the breed or mix of dog, shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if coat condition seems too dull, or you notice excessive hair loss.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Some of the hardest questions I get are from readers with dogs who have bitten or seem likely to bite.

Many of these dogs are loving pets ... "except." Except around children. Except around men. Except around their food dish or toys. Except when accidentally cornered. Those who love and share their lives with these dogs often try to avoid situations that seem to trigger aggressive behavior, but they worry that trying to manage an aggressive dog may not be enough.

With good reason: It often isn't.

I don't advise people on how to fix a dog who has bitten or tried to bite. There are too many variables, and the risk is just too great if I get something wrong based on wrong information (I never get to meet the dog, after all). And people who have dogs with aggressive tendencies often live in denial, not recognizing how dangerous their dog truly is, and they're unable to accurately report or understand the animal's behavior.

Instead, I recommend finding a trainer with experience in canine aggression or getting a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. If the dog's owner isn't willing to get help, I recommend euthanasia for the animal.

In other words, near zero tolerance. I don't care how much you love your dog: If you believe there's a good chance some person (most typically a child) will be injured by your pet, I do not accept any excuses for you or your dog.

Are you kidding yourself about your dog? Answer these questions and be brutally honest:

-- Has your dog ever "stared you down"? If your dog gives you a hard, fixed stare, you need to recognize it for the challenge it is.

-- Does your dog adopt a dominant posture with you or other people? A dog who's trying to be boss will be up on his toes, with his legs stiff, ears forward and hackles raised. His tail will be held up or out, and may even be wagging a little. Don't confuse the latter for friendliness. There's big difference between the wide, relaxed wag of a friendly dog and the stiff, tight one of an aggressive animal.

-- Do you avoid doing certain things around your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? I've known people who live their lives in fear of their dog, avoiding the animal when he's eating, sleeping, playing with a toy ... the list can be endless.

-- Do you consider your dog safe, except around a particular group of people, such as children? When he growls at the veterinarian, do you tell yourself the behavior is reasonable because the animal thinks the doctor is "mean"?

-- Has your dog ever bitten anyone? Whatever the reason, no matter the excuse, a dog who has bitten once is more likely to bite again than is a dog who has never bitten at all.

A "yes" to any of these questions means you do have a problem, and you need to find help. Talk to your veterinarian about a referral, today.

While some dogs with aggression problems cannot be reformed, others can, with a combination of medication and re-training, and a big dose of dog-savvy on the part of the owner.

If your dog cannot be trusted, even with professional help, don't try to pass the problem along to someone else because it's hard to do what needs to be done. Take responsibility. You may be sparing a child a lifetime of fear and disfigurement, or you may even be saving someone's life.

THE SCOOP

Are you old enough to remember Buster Brown and his dog Tige? Turns out the sailor-suited kid and his brown pup are still around, and the shoe company for which they pitch is looking for a modern update on this classic image. Parents are invited to enter pictures of children with their dogs in the contest, with six winners to be featured on shoe boxes. The prize for each of the winners is a nice addition to the college fund, too: a $5,000 savings bond.

The contest is to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the brand, so it's not likely that if you do remember ol' Buster, you were around for the beginning. My memory goes back only so far as my childhood, when Buster Browns were standard baby boomer footwear. I remember because I thought the dog was cute. Still do. Contest information is at www.busterbrowncontest.com.

PETS ON THE WEB

In Britain, the National Hamster Council (www.hamsters-uk.org) claims to be the oldest hamster club in the world. I'm not sure who keeps those kinds of records, so I guess we'll just have to believe them. The site offers lots of information on hamsters, with more than anyone really needs to know on showing them. (If you live in the United Kingdom, you can attend no fewer than 23 officially sanctioned hamster shows a year!)

If you get bogged down in the seriousness of hamster shows, you can always revisit Web favorite Hamster Dance (www.hampsterdance.com/hampsterdanceredux.html). It's just plain silly, but every now and then it's worth a couple of minutes of your time.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I have a 1-year-old sun conure. For her "hatch day," I purchased a catnip-filled cat toy thinking she would enjoy it. She does. But I suddenly got worried that catnip might not be safe for conures. It is a high-quality toy. The catnip is sewn into a column of fabric about the size and shape of a cigar. I've taken the toy away until I hear that the catnip is safe. What do you think? -- P.K., via e-mail

A: I doubt she's reacting to the catnip, since not even all cats fall under its mood-enhancing spell. She probably just likes the feel of the fabric, the color or even the exotic smell.

But why bother with a catnip cat toy, when there has never been a wider choice of truly wonderful toys available for birds? Visit any reputable bird shop, and you'll find a wide variety of safe and entertaining toys for all sizes of birds. Online, you'll find plenty of choices, too, including toys from Birds of Play (www.birdsofplay.com) or the Bird Brain (www.thebirdbrain.com), the latter a fund-raiser for the Colorado-based Gabriel Foundation (www.thegabrielfoundation.org), a parrot rescue group and sanctuary.

You can also make your own toys. Some retailers, such as Doctors Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com; 1-800-381-7179), sell the raw materials -- bird-safe fiber ropes and pieces of plastic, leather and wood. You can also offer old toothbrushes (run through the dishwasher first), trimmings from your trees, especially citrus and apple, the plastic tops of milk bottles, and the cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls.

Thinking cross-species, you can look for bargains on colorful, hard-plastic baby toys, or hard-rubber cat or dog toys. My caique parrot loves a ridged-rubber dog chew toy. He likes to roll it around, ride on it and try to tear it to bits!

Toys are especially important for the mental health of any pet who spends any amount of time in a cage. Keep a good variety, both of sturdy toys and ones that can be easily and entertainingly destroyed.

Q: Would you please warn people that exercising their dogs can be dangerous? I cannot believe how often I see people running or biking with their dogs at the hottest part of the day. Sometimes the dogs are actually staggering behind the bike, and their owners don't even notice! Yes, exercise is good for dogs. But people need to have some common sense. Some of these dogs are fat, which makes things even harder on them. -- F.G., via e-mail

A: This is a warning that just cannot be given too often at this time of year.

Dogs don't function as efficiently as we do in heat, and while exercise is important, it's best left to cool mornings and evenings in the summer.

If your dog isn't in shape, work up to long sessions gradually early in the morning or late at night, and watch carefully for any sign your dog is in trouble. Carry water, and offer it often.

If your dog should get overheated, put lots of cool -- but not cold -- water on him and find a veterinarian quickly. This is a true medical emergency, and your dog's life is on the line. Don't wait to see if he gets better. Get help!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600