When my first parrot died a few years ago, I was grief-stricken. Patrick's loss wasn't a total surprise: He came to me as a homeless, feather-picked disaster, and he'd had health problems throughout his short life. But just because a loss isn't a shock doesn't mean it isn't difficult to bear, and I very much missed having him around.

But then, I guiltily noticed I was enjoying all the time I didn’t have to clean up after all the poop dumped, feathers dropped and food flung far and wide. Parrots are like that, for all their charms, which is why I went a half-dozen years before adopting another.

Eventually I decided the mess was worth it, so about a year ago another parrot, Eddie the clownish caique, joined my household. I still don't care for the mess, but I adore my parrot, so I'm once again cleaning all the time.

Cleaning isn't just about neatness -- it's also about health. Clean, fresh food and water are essential to pet birds, and so, too, is keeping their environment as free as possible of bacteria, fungus and molds, all of which can lead to disease.

Eddie's cage gets taken outside and scrubbed every week, but in between times I've learned to keep things relatively neat with a few supplies kept close to the cage and used on a constant basis. Among them:

-- Newspapers. Bird lovers go through a lot of newspapers, so it's a good thing I like to read enough to subscribe to three of them. I put all the glossy inserts in the recycling bin and stack the rest for use in the cage tray and under Eddie's play area.

-- Cloth towels. In addition to cleaning, old towels are great for protecting clothing from bird poop -- just drape a towel over your shoulders. In addition to a few worn-out or faded bathroom towels, I also have some shop towels I bought at an auto-supply place.

-- Paper towels. I keep a roll by the bird cage at all times, and I'm thinking of putting a dispenser on the wall nearby. With a multi-pet household, I buy paper towels in bulk when I see good prices.

-- Spray bottle with cleaning solution. Kept next to the paper towels. Since birds are sensitive to fumes, I know to skip the ammonia, bleach, pine solutions or any other strong cleaners. Simple soap and water are fine for everyday touch-ups, although I also like Poop-Off, a product developed just for bird cleanups.

-- Handheld vacuum. I have one just for the bird room, for snarfing up food pellets and feathers.

-- Mats for under the cage. The heavy, clear plastic mats intended for under desk chairs and sold at office-supply stores keep most of the gunk off the floor. Newspapers catch the rest.

-- Hamper. I keep the bird towels separate from the others in the household by using a hamper placed next to the cage. I wash all the birds towels together when I have a full hamper.

-- Trash bin. Again, right by the cage. Every time I change the cage liner, I just lean over and put the old newspapers in the trash.

I find a few minutes spent cleaning a couple times a day keeps things in good order and makes the weekly cage scrubbing easier to accomplish. I change cage papers daily, at a minimum, and clean everything else as soon as I see the mess hit.

Eddie is the smallest pet in the house, but he's by far the biggest mess-maker. By cleaning constantly, a few minutes here and there, I find I don't mind at all.

PETS ON THE WEB

I admit to being addicted to digital photography, taking pictures every day and foisting them on friends, co-workers, readers and even total strangers. My pictures are, not surprisingly, mostly of pets. In this picture-taking obsession, I'm not alone. On Fotolog (www.fotolog.net), thousands of images are posted every minute, on all kinds of topics. A lot of them are of drunken young people partying with their friends, but many others are very good indeed.

For those who like to share images of pets, Fotolog has several "group" areas, including Fotodogs (www.fotolog.net/fotodogs), Fotocats

(www.fotolog.net/fotocats) and Fotopets (www.fotolog.net/fotopets). My favorite animal-related Fotolog belongs to a dog in Holland by the name of Joop (www.fotolog.net/joop), whose pictures are so wonderful they ought to be sold in book form.

THE SCOOP

Although many dogs enjoy swimming in pools as much as people do, no dog should be given unsupervised access to a pool. Just as with toddlers, dogs should be kept from the pool with a fence when they cannot be watched.

The risk of drowning is very high for small breeds who often can't navigate the exit stairs, and for top-heavy dogs like the bulldog, many of whom just flat-out can't swim. Even the most amphibious retriever could get in trouble if the animal can't figure out where the stairs are and how to use them.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Could I add some suggestions to your recent writing on pet-safe snail control?

Although I occasionally use snail bait, I mostly go on a "snail safari," as you called it, very early in the morning, just as it's getting light. That way, I don't have to use a flashlight, leaving both hands free for my "tools-of-the-trade."

I carry either a half-gallon milk carton or a large cottage-cheese container in my left hand, and I use a set of cheap ice tongs in my right hand to gather my quarry and put them in the container for later disposal. The tongs work great. Not only do they extend my reach by about 6 inches, but if I happen to step on a snail inadvertently, I can pick it up without getting my hand all "gunk-i-fied" (a technical snail-hunter term).

I don't remember where I got the tongs (probably at a Dollar Store, Big Lots, etc.), but now I'm spoiled, and I'd hate to think of going hunting without them. -- G.P. via e-mail

A: Your suggestion is truly an improvement on my snail-hunting techniques, and far better than picking up snails by hand. I'm going to look for some ice tongs, too!

Q: My neighbors' 5-year-old cat just died from antifreeze poisoning. The poor little girl drank antifreeze that was left uncovered in their garage. Because I have known of the dangers of antifreeze to pets for years, I assumed, in error, that everyone else knew this as well. But, as a matter of fact, my own mother who owns two cats didn't know this!

Looking at a container of antifreeze, I noted that it states under "warnings," at the very end and in very small type, "... solution is poisonous to animals." Now, I think it's safe to say that virtually all people know to keep chemicals, including antifreeze, out of the reach of children. Given this assumption, along with the sad knowledge that not everyone is aware of the danger of antifreeze to animals, is there a reason that the makers of antifreeze (and all other chemicals that may be attractive to animals) don't state this danger more clearly and obviously on their containers? Better still, is there any way that there can be something added to antifreeze that would repulse rather than attract pets?

Can you help here? Pets dying from antifreeze poisoning is preventable, which makes it so much more tragic when it occurs. -- K.S., via e-mail

A: Don't make the assumption that people know better when it comes to children: Kids have been killed by antifreeze too, along with countless pets. I wholly support efforts to mandate that bittering agents be added to these products, which are not only deadly but apparently sweet-tasting enough to encourage ingestion. California already requires that antifreeze contain a bittering agent, and I hope this will become law everywhere.

In the meantime, pet lovers have two ways to protect their animal companions, one relatively foolproof, the other not.

Not foolproof: Use a safer antifreeze made from a different formulation than the more popular variety, store chemicals properly, and wipe up spills promptly. While this should eliminate most of the risk for dogs, these strategies are not foolproof for free-roaming cats because they cannot control what your neighbors will do when it comes to using or storing deadly chemicals.

Foolproof: Keep cats inside. Free-roaming cats have relatively short lifespans because the outside world is full of deadly hazards. To antifreeze, add cars, coyotes (even in cities!) and even cat-hating neighbors to the list of things that can kill a free-roaming cat.

If you even suspect a pet has taken into antifreeze, get your pet to the veterinary clinic immediately. There's no "wait-and-see" period with this stuff.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

We're in full stride on kitten season now, which means I'm getting questions about feline pregnancy from people who often had no idea they'd be midwife to pets who are often not much more than kittens themselves.

Typical questions include: How long does a cat pregnancy last? (On average, 66 days.) Do I need to help my pregnant cat with delivery? (Yes, usually by leaving her alone.) How do I know if she's close to delivering? (Watch for enlarged nipples and the secretion of a tiny amount of milk.)

The question I'm asked least often is the most important of all: How soon after my cat gives birth can she be spayed? (As soon as the babies are weaned, the sooner the better!)

Studies show that 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. If your cat is not among them, here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers, infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Although the procedures are among the most common, many people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Most of the people who write me about pregnant cats are dealing with "oops" litters, the result of not getting their cat to the veterinarian in time. I sure hope they'll be calling to schedule an appointment for neutering as soon as those babies are weaned.

If you're allowing your cat to have "just one litter" because you want a kitten, please adopt a kitten instead. You'll find plenty to choose from at any shelter or rescue group. Many of them won't find homes so please help in any way you can.

THE SCOOP

More than 100 veterinarians have served in the Persian Gulf over the last two years, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association, which plans to honor their service with a resolution at the trade group's upcoming conference later this month.

Veterinarians in the armed forces work for the health and safety of both animals and humans, notes the AVMA, serving to keep food supplies safe, provide care to military working dogs and to provide humanitarian assistance.

PETS ON THE WEB

According to the Iguana Pages

(www.baskingspot.com/iguanas) a million baby iguanas are imported to the United States every year –- and most of them die very soon after. The site doesn't offer a source for this shocking number, so I don't know how accurate it is, but it's absolutely true that many, if not most, baby iguanas suffer and die for lack of proper care.

In addition to offering good information on how to take care of these high-maintenance pets, the site talks about the sorts of mistakes people make that lead to the early death of most pet iguanas. One of the biggest reasons: Iguanas get big. If you're not prepared for a pet that will reach 5 to 6 feet in length, then please don't get one.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We've grown tired of opening the door for our cat, so we put in a cat door. How can we teach him to use it? -- W.H., via e-mail

A: After you install your cat door, just leave it be for a week or so until your cat takes its presence for granted. Always remember that cats aren't keen on change.

To teach him to use the door, tape the flap up securely for a few days so that he comes to appreciate the fact that he can conveniently come and go on his own schedule through this magic portal. (And I do mean securely. If your cat gets clobbered by a falling flap, it will take a long time to coax him near it again.)

Then put the flap down and put a little butter or margarine on the bottom edge of the flap and encourage him with tasty treats and praise from the other side. You can also drag toys on a string through, encouraging him to chase them.

Repeat these lessons in very short intervals over the course of several days, and your cat will get the hang of it, sure enough.

Q: I have an albino cockatiel. How can I tell if the bird is a boy or a girl? -- A.R., via e-mail

A: Although gender can be determined by markings in many varieties of cockatiels, that's not true in the case of the whiteface lutinos (commonly known as albinos). That's because there are no markings to provide the clues.

You'll need the help of an avian veterinarian to solve this mystery. He'll draw a blood sample, and the laboratory will get the answer you want from the bird's DNA.

Q: About three years ago, we bought a pair of budgies for my daughter, who isn't interested in them anymore. The birds were scared being handled from the first, and now we pretty much leave them be. Their cage is always kept clean, of course, but they seem to want nothing to do with us.

I feel vaguely guilty about this, and wonder if they are happy. They look in fine feather, and seem to be happy with each other. Is there something else I should do for them? -- J.F., via e-mail

A: A well-socialized budgie is a marvelous pet, sweet and affectionate. My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, is always championing these birds, who are among the best talkers around! Sadly, the pet potential of most budgies is never fully explored. Like many small and relatively inexpensive pets, budgies are often purchased for children, and neglected not too long after the novelty wears off.

You've done better for your birds than many people have: They have a home, they have each other and their basic needs are being met. Don't feel guilty!

Still, it wouldn't hurt to try to do better. Aside from the socializing (which they may not like), I'd suggest some environmental enrichment for your budgies. The cages that are matched to birds at pet-supply stores are usually at least one size too small. The more space to explore, the better, especially for a cage-bound bird.

In addition to the extra space, make sure they have toys to play with, and lots of fresh foods to eat. Variety is important when it comes to food, not just for the nutritional value of vegetables, fruits, bread, scrambled eggs, pasta and more, but also because different shapes, colors, tastes and textures help with boredom. Budgies are parrots, and like their larger relatives should not be kept on an all-seed diet. A good pelleted diet supplemented by fresh "people food" is the best choice.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Summer is a great time to be a pet. The days are long and most kids are out of school. That leaves plenty of time for lots of attention and some serious fun.

But summer can also be dangerous. Playing or exercising a dog in the heat can bring on a lethal case of heat stroke. Burrs, foxtails and awns from parched grasses can cause painful infections, and the chemicals we use to keep our beautiful summer yards green and control pests can poison our pets.

Prevention is the best way to protect your pet, of course. Always keep an eye out for potential hazards, and do your best to minimize or remove them. Keep pets cool and calm in the hottest part of the day, and check frequently for plants and insect problems -- ticks are nasty in the summer. Finally, use household chemicals sparingly and according to label instructions, and store them properly and securely.

If your best intentions aren't enough, though, you may be taking an emergency trip to your veterinarian.

It's often hard to decide what's worth worrying about and what can wait until you can get your pet in during regular -- and less expensive -- hospital hours. I've spent enough time in emergency clinics to know that sometimes people waste their money through lack of knowledge, bringing pets in for such things as worms. (One time while working at an emergency clinic, I met an extremely upset woman who was convinced the tapeworm fragment coming out of her cat was the pet's intestines coming out.)

Other folks take too lightly such things as vomiting, which can be a sign of something deadly serious.

Anything is worth a call to the veterinarian if you're not sure, but some things definitely require urgent attention, no matter the day or hour. Among them:

-- Seizure, fainting or collapse;

-- Eye injury, no matter how mild;

-- Vomiting or diarrhea, anything more than two or three times within an hour or so;

-- Allergic reaction, such as swelling around the face or hives;

-- Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, snail or rodent bait, or human medication;

-- Snakebite;

-- Thermal stress, a pet that has been too cold or too hot;

-- Any wound that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite;

-- Traumatic injury, such as being hit by a car;

-- Breathing problems, including chronic coughing or near drowning;

-- Straining to urinate or defecate.

Sometimes an animal may seem fine, such as a dog after being hit by a car or a cat shaken by an attacking dog with no puncture wounds. But the story inside may be quite different, with internal injuries that need immediate veterinary attention. Any delay can cost your pet his life.

Most everything else can wait until morning, or even Monday if it's the weekend, but here I must add a plea on your pet's behalf: Just because something (BEGIN ITAL)can(END ITAL) wait, doesn't mean it (BEGIN ITAL)should(END ITAL) wait. If your pet's in pain, take him in. You know he'd do the same for you. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy, restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding or crying out.

When in doubt on your pet's illness, call a veterinarian, no matter the time of day or night.

A final note on veterinary emergencies: Do you know where to go if you have one? Check with your veterinarian to see if the hospital is open 24 hours a day, or if staff is always on call in case of an emergency.

If your veterinarian does not offer after-hours care, the hospital usually works with one that does. Learn the location of the nearest emergency-care center, and put the phone number in a place where you can find it. Make sure you know how to get there, too.

The last thing you need to be doing with a sick pet at 2 a.m. is trying to find the phone book and asking for directions.

THE SCOOP

Although the beaks of parrots are constantly growing at a rate of 1-to-3 inches per year, depending on the species, a healthy pet does not need to have his beak trimmed. Your bird should keep his beak at the proper length through his normal chewing activities.

Contrary to what some bird books still preach, don't accept "beak trims" as a routine health-care measure -- they're not. Overgrowth of the beak is frequently a sign of illness. If you have any concerns about your bird's beak, check in with a veterinarian who specializes in bird care.

PETS ON THE WEB

The hip literary magazine The Bark, which offers the best writing on dogs within its pages, began life as a newsletter promoting off-leash recreation areas. They've come a long way from those humble beginnings, and their smart and savvy Web site(www.thebark.com) is almost as wonderful The Bark in print. Right now on the site is a collection of reader-submitted pictures of smiling dogs that will be sure to brighten any pet lover's day. You'll also find some of The Bark's best articles, lists of dog parks and services and a community section for sharing thoughts with other literate dog lovers.

Don't forget to stop at the shop for The Bark's distinctive "Dog Is My Co-Pilot" logo items. People comment on my T-shirt every time I wear it! One more necessary transaction: Subscribe to The Bark ($15 per year for five issues). It's more than my favorite pet magazine -- it's one of my very favorite publications, of any kind.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a huge snail invasion in our yard. They're shredding my bedding plants, and I have to do something. I know snail bait is deadly to pets, but what's the alternative? The snails must go! -- T.R., via e-mail

A: Like most gardeners, "hate" isn't all that strong a word to use when it comes to how I feel about snails. But I never, ever use snail bait, because it's deadly not just to snails and slugs but also to dogs, cats and birds.

Instead, when snail numbers become a problem, I conduct "snail safaris" at night with a flashlight, picking up snails by the shell and putting them in a bag that I then place in the garbage bin. Another alternative to traditional snail bait is iron phosphate, which is marketed under the brand name Sluggo.

If you suspect your pet has gotten into snail bait -- symptoms include frothing at the mouth, vomiting and convulsions -- see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's life depends on your prompt action.

Q: I've been adopted by a cat, a young male who's really affectionate. He has no collar or tag, but he was clearly someone's pet, not a wild cat. Since he showed up about the same time some neighbors moved, I'm guessing he was left behind. There is a problem, though. He sprays urine on my patio furniture. Will neutering stop this behavior? -- F.H., via e-mail

A: While cat abandonments are sadly common, it may be that your neighbors couldn't find him when they were moving. Before you assume that he was left behind, please try to contact your former neighbors. They may be missing him very much!

If attempts to locate his previous owners fail, you may adopt him in good conscience. Your new companion most certainly can be neutered, and the sooner the better. The health benefits of the surgery cannot be argued, and neutered editors ... make better pets since they're not spending all their energy thinking about mating.

While there are no guarantees with a cat who's sexually mature, there's a good possibility the urine-spraying -- a territory-marking behavior -- will diminish or even disappear after the surgery. Fighting and roaming should also diminish, which is good news for the cat, and for your budget for veterinary care.

Neutering is a very common and safe procedure. The cat's testicles will be removed through incisions in the scrotum. After-care normally involves keeping an eye on the cat, and making sure the area stays clean and dry. Your veterinarian may recommend keeping the cat inside, and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually occurs within three to five days.

We're in the height of kitten season now, which offers the best reason of all to have this cat neutered -- to remove the possibility of having him contribute to pet overpopulation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600