We're in full stride on kitten season now, which means I'm getting questions about feline pregnancy from people who often had no idea they'd be midwife to pets who are often not much more than kittens themselves.

Typical questions include: How long does a cat pregnancy last? (On average, 66 days.) Do I need to help my pregnant cat with delivery? (Yes, usually by leaving her alone.) How do I know if she's close to delivering? (Watch for enlarged nipples and the secretion of a tiny amount of milk.)

The question I'm asked least often is the most important of all: How soon after my cat gives birth can she be spayed? (As soon as the babies are weaned, the sooner the better!)

Studies show that 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. If your cat is not among them, here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers, infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Although the procedures are among the most common, many people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Most of the people who write me about pregnant cats are dealing with "oops" litters, the result of not getting their cat to the veterinarian in time. I sure hope they'll be calling to schedule an appointment for neutering as soon as those babies are weaned.

If you're allowing your cat to have "just one litter" because you want a kitten, please adopt a kitten instead. You'll find plenty to choose from at any shelter or rescue group. Many of them won't find homes so please help in any way you can.

THE SCOOP

More than 100 veterinarians have served in the Persian Gulf over the last two years, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association, which plans to honor their service with a resolution at the trade group's upcoming conference later this month.

Veterinarians in the armed forces work for the health and safety of both animals and humans, notes the AVMA, serving to keep food supplies safe, provide care to military working dogs and to provide humanitarian assistance.

PETS ON THE WEB

According to the Iguana Pages

(www.baskingspot.com/iguanas) a million baby iguanas are imported to the United States every year –- and most of them die very soon after. The site doesn't offer a source for this shocking number, so I don't know how accurate it is, but it's absolutely true that many, if not most, baby iguanas suffer and die for lack of proper care.

In addition to offering good information on how to take care of these high-maintenance pets, the site talks about the sorts of mistakes people make that lead to the early death of most pet iguanas. One of the biggest reasons: Iguanas get big. If you're not prepared for a pet that will reach 5 to 6 feet in length, then please don't get one.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We've grown tired of opening the door for our cat, so we put in a cat door. How can we teach him to use it? -- W.H., via e-mail

A: After you install your cat door, just leave it be for a week or so until your cat takes its presence for granted. Always remember that cats aren't keen on change.

To teach him to use the door, tape the flap up securely for a few days so that he comes to appreciate the fact that he can conveniently come and go on his own schedule through this magic portal. (And I do mean securely. If your cat gets clobbered by a falling flap, it will take a long time to coax him near it again.)

Then put the flap down and put a little butter or margarine on the bottom edge of the flap and encourage him with tasty treats and praise from the other side. You can also drag toys on a string through, encouraging him to chase them.

Repeat these lessons in very short intervals over the course of several days, and your cat will get the hang of it, sure enough.

Q: I have an albino cockatiel. How can I tell if the bird is a boy or a girl? -- A.R., via e-mail

A: Although gender can be determined by markings in many varieties of cockatiels, that's not true in the case of the whiteface lutinos (commonly known as albinos). That's because there are no markings to provide the clues.

You'll need the help of an avian veterinarian to solve this mystery. He'll draw a blood sample, and the laboratory will get the answer you want from the bird's DNA.

Q: About three years ago, we bought a pair of budgies for my daughter, who isn't interested in them anymore. The birds were scared being handled from the first, and now we pretty much leave them be. Their cage is always kept clean, of course, but they seem to want nothing to do with us.

I feel vaguely guilty about this, and wonder if they are happy. They look in fine feather, and seem to be happy with each other. Is there something else I should do for them? -- J.F., via e-mail

A: A well-socialized budgie is a marvelous pet, sweet and affectionate. My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, is always championing these birds, who are among the best talkers around! Sadly, the pet potential of most budgies is never fully explored. Like many small and relatively inexpensive pets, budgies are often purchased for children, and neglected not too long after the novelty wears off.

You've done better for your birds than many people have: They have a home, they have each other and their basic needs are being met. Don't feel guilty!

Still, it wouldn't hurt to try to do better. Aside from the socializing (which they may not like), I'd suggest some environmental enrichment for your budgies. The cages that are matched to birds at pet-supply stores are usually at least one size too small. The more space to explore, the better, especially for a cage-bound bird.

In addition to the extra space, make sure they have toys to play with, and lots of fresh foods to eat. Variety is important when it comes to food, not just for the nutritional value of vegetables, fruits, bread, scrambled eggs, pasta and more, but also because different shapes, colors, tastes and textures help with boredom. Budgies are parrots, and like their larger relatives should not be kept on an all-seed diet. A good pelleted diet supplemented by fresh "people food" is the best choice.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Summer is a great time to be a pet. The days are long and most kids are out of school. That leaves plenty of time for lots of attention and some serious fun.

But summer can also be dangerous. Playing or exercising a dog in the heat can bring on a lethal case of heat stroke. Burrs, foxtails and awns from parched grasses can cause painful infections, and the chemicals we use to keep our beautiful summer yards green and control pests can poison our pets.

Prevention is the best way to protect your pet, of course. Always keep an eye out for potential hazards, and do your best to minimize or remove them. Keep pets cool and calm in the hottest part of the day, and check frequently for plants and insect problems -- ticks are nasty in the summer. Finally, use household chemicals sparingly and according to label instructions, and store them properly and securely.

If your best intentions aren't enough, though, you may be taking an emergency trip to your veterinarian.

It's often hard to decide what's worth worrying about and what can wait until you can get your pet in during regular -- and less expensive -- hospital hours. I've spent enough time in emergency clinics to know that sometimes people waste their money through lack of knowledge, bringing pets in for such things as worms. (One time while working at an emergency clinic, I met an extremely upset woman who was convinced the tapeworm fragment coming out of her cat was the pet's intestines coming out.)

Other folks take too lightly such things as vomiting, which can be a sign of something deadly serious.

Anything is worth a call to the veterinarian if you're not sure, but some things definitely require urgent attention, no matter the day or hour. Among them:

-- Seizure, fainting or collapse;

-- Eye injury, no matter how mild;

-- Vomiting or diarrhea, anything more than two or three times within an hour or so;

-- Allergic reaction, such as swelling around the face or hives;

-- Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, snail or rodent bait, or human medication;

-- Snakebite;

-- Thermal stress, a pet that has been too cold or too hot;

-- Any wound that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite;

-- Traumatic injury, such as being hit by a car;

-- Breathing problems, including chronic coughing or near drowning;

-- Straining to urinate or defecate.

Sometimes an animal may seem fine, such as a dog after being hit by a car or a cat shaken by an attacking dog with no puncture wounds. But the story inside may be quite different, with internal injuries that need immediate veterinary attention. Any delay can cost your pet his life.

Most everything else can wait until morning, or even Monday if it's the weekend, but here I must add a plea on your pet's behalf: Just because something (BEGIN ITAL)can(END ITAL) wait, doesn't mean it (BEGIN ITAL)should(END ITAL) wait. If your pet's in pain, take him in. You know he'd do the same for you. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy, restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding or crying out.

When in doubt on your pet's illness, call a veterinarian, no matter the time of day or night.

A final note on veterinary emergencies: Do you know where to go if you have one? Check with your veterinarian to see if the hospital is open 24 hours a day, or if staff is always on call in case of an emergency.

If your veterinarian does not offer after-hours care, the hospital usually works with one that does. Learn the location of the nearest emergency-care center, and put the phone number in a place where you can find it. Make sure you know how to get there, too.

The last thing you need to be doing with a sick pet at 2 a.m. is trying to find the phone book and asking for directions.

THE SCOOP

Although the beaks of parrots are constantly growing at a rate of 1-to-3 inches per year, depending on the species, a healthy pet does not need to have his beak trimmed. Your bird should keep his beak at the proper length through his normal chewing activities.

Contrary to what some bird books still preach, don't accept "beak trims" as a routine health-care measure -- they're not. Overgrowth of the beak is frequently a sign of illness. If you have any concerns about your bird's beak, check in with a veterinarian who specializes in bird care.

PETS ON THE WEB

The hip literary magazine The Bark, which offers the best writing on dogs within its pages, began life as a newsletter promoting off-leash recreation areas. They've come a long way from those humble beginnings, and their smart and savvy Web site(www.thebark.com) is almost as wonderful The Bark in print. Right now on the site is a collection of reader-submitted pictures of smiling dogs that will be sure to brighten any pet lover's day. You'll also find some of The Bark's best articles, lists of dog parks and services and a community section for sharing thoughts with other literate dog lovers.

Don't forget to stop at the shop for The Bark's distinctive "Dog Is My Co-Pilot" logo items. People comment on my T-shirt every time I wear it! One more necessary transaction: Subscribe to The Bark ($15 per year for five issues). It's more than my favorite pet magazine -- it's one of my very favorite publications, of any kind.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a huge snail invasion in our yard. They're shredding my bedding plants, and I have to do something. I know snail bait is deadly to pets, but what's the alternative? The snails must go! -- T.R., via e-mail

A: Like most gardeners, "hate" isn't all that strong a word to use when it comes to how I feel about snails. But I never, ever use snail bait, because it's deadly not just to snails and slugs but also to dogs, cats and birds.

Instead, when snail numbers become a problem, I conduct "snail safaris" at night with a flashlight, picking up snails by the shell and putting them in a bag that I then place in the garbage bin. Another alternative to traditional snail bait is iron phosphate, which is marketed under the brand name Sluggo.

If you suspect your pet has gotten into snail bait -- symptoms include frothing at the mouth, vomiting and convulsions -- see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's life depends on your prompt action.

Q: I've been adopted by a cat, a young male who's really affectionate. He has no collar or tag, but he was clearly someone's pet, not a wild cat. Since he showed up about the same time some neighbors moved, I'm guessing he was left behind. There is a problem, though. He sprays urine on my patio furniture. Will neutering stop this behavior? -- F.H., via e-mail

A: While cat abandonments are sadly common, it may be that your neighbors couldn't find him when they were moving. Before you assume that he was left behind, please try to contact your former neighbors. They may be missing him very much!

If attempts to locate his previous owners fail, you may adopt him in good conscience. Your new companion most certainly can be neutered, and the sooner the better. The health benefits of the surgery cannot be argued, and neutered editors ... make better pets since they're not spending all their energy thinking about mating.

While there are no guarantees with a cat who's sexually mature, there's a good possibility the urine-spraying -- a territory-marking behavior -- will diminish or even disappear after the surgery. Fighting and roaming should also diminish, which is good news for the cat, and for your budget for veterinary care.

Neutering is a very common and safe procedure. The cat's testicles will be removed through incisions in the scrotum. After-care normally involves keeping an eye on the cat, and making sure the area stays clean and dry. Your veterinarian may recommend keeping the cat inside, and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually occurs within three to five days.

We're in the height of kitten season now, which offers the best reason of all to have this cat neutered -- to remove the possibility of having him contribute to pet overpopulation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When I started writing about pets 20 years ago, parrots had a reputation for being messy, hard-to-tame pets who'd just as soon bite you as look at you. They never left their cages, and the only reasons most people had for keeping parrots was because they were beautiful and because some of them would pick up a few words and phrases.

What a change today! While constant cleaning is still part of any parrot lover's routine, the change in pet potential from the wild-caught birds of yesterday to the hand-raised birds of today is dramatic. Well-socialized birds from reputable breeders and bird shops can be delightful pets who truly do become members of the family. For many of these pets, cages are where they stay at night, nothing more.

To achieve the full potential of a properly raised parrot, however, you need to set the right tone from the first. You'll need to assure your new bird that you are a wonderful, kind and fun person, but you also need to gently but firmly establish that you are not a mate or a servant, but rather the leader. This is done through consistent handling and gentle training -- never, ever through punishment.

It's not hard if you follow some basic guidelines:

-- Learn when to leave your bird alone. Birds are emotional and sometimes quite moody, and there are times when it's best just to let them be. As you come to know your bird better, you'll be able to identify clearly the times when he wants to be with you and when he wants to be left alone. Give him space when he needs it.

-- Control your bird's comings and goings. Instead of opening the cage door to let your pet out, ask your bird to step up onto your hand and then bring him out. Likewise, give the "step up" command when it's time to put your bird back in his cage. This routine may seem like no big deal to you, but you're sending a message of leadership to your bird.

-- Keep training sessions short and upbeat. Parrots are highly intelligent, but they don't have the longest attention spans. While trick-training is great for keeping them engaged, they get bored easily. Several short sessions a day -- just a couple minutes at a time -- are better than one or two long ones. Always end on a positive note!

-- Don't let your bird ignore a command. If you say "step up," persist until your bird complies, or you'll set yourself up for trouble down the road. Birds are very smart, and if they figure a way around you, they'll take it. Once your leadership starts to erode, you'll have a hard time reclaiming your position and behavior problems will result.

-- Keep your bird at a level lower than your head. In the bird world, higher birds are leader birds. In the beginning, keep your bird's cage and play gyms below the level of your chin. When playing with your bird, keep your arm low, too, and don't let your bird on your shoulder. Keep wings trimmed, too, both for safety's sake, and to control the elevated attitude that sometimes comes with the power of flight.

-- Talk to your bird. Make eye contact and say anything or everything that's on your mind. Birds learn by repetition and by mimicry, so start "naming" things for your bird. For example, when you want to pet your bird, ask him if it's OK, saying something like, "Want a pet?" or "Want a tickle?" or even "Tickle, tickle?" When your bird makes the connection, he'll drop his head to ask for petting -- or he may even use the phrase you've chosen!

Above all, don't ruin any good habits the breeder instilled in your bird by letting your pet become a demanding brat. Set limits and stick to them. Your bird will love you for it -- and you'll get more out of the relationship as well.

PETS ON THE WEB

After I wrote about one guinea pig site, I got an e-mail from the fan of another. Cavies Galore (www.caviesgalore.com) is an offbeat site celebrating the pet better known in the United States as the guinea pig. The site offers computer games with guinea pig themes, message boards and basic care advice. The creators also seem inordinately fond of guinea pig sayings, since the site offers several lists of them. (Example: "You know you're a cavy slave when your don't buy junk food so you can afford more parsley.")

THE SCOOP

While exercise is important for all dogs, it's important to plan activities during the cooler part of the day to prevent overheating.

Dogs who are overweight, out-of-condition, elderly or pug-nosed are especially at risk. For these dogs, heat stress can quickly turn lethal.

Don't take a chance with your dog's life. Keep exercise sessions short and plan them for early or late in the day. Stop at the first sign of overheating, such as heavy panting. Always have cool water available both for drinking and for wetting dogs down on warm days -- for the latter, concentrate on a constant flow of cool water to the belly.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I had dogs growing up, as did my husband. Since we've been married, we've been living in apartment and so haven't had space for a dog. We have a cat, Shelly, who is much adored.

We've bought our first home and plan to add a dog after we move in. We want to adopt a shelter dog, but we're at a loss how to choose. Our shelter mentions if a dog is good with cats, but how do they know? And is the information reliable? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Shelters and rescue groups can find out if a dog is good with cats by asking the animal's previous owners, or by exposing the dog to a cat and evaluating the response.

The latter isn't as awful as it sounds. Shelters don't haul out some terrified guest kitty to test a dog's reaction. The tester cat is usually a permanent resident of the shelter, often a staff favorite who has proven to be calm and disdainfully confident around dogs. Dogs who are aggressive toward the cat (but not people) are so noted, as are those who are too friendly (and will need training to leave a cat alone), are friendly but not intrusive (ideal), or couldn't care less about the cat (also fine). Ask the folks at the shelter how they determine cat tolerance in the case of any dog you're considering.

In general, I'd look for a quiet, gentle and well-mannered adult dog of 3 to 5 years of age or older who falls into the friendly but not intrusive category, preferably one who has lived with cats before. You'll find lots of these dogs in the shelters and rescue groups, if you're patient about looking.

When you find your dog, don't force the pets together. Let the cat decided how much interaction she wants, and always offer her an escape route to a dog-free area. It may take a month or more for the situation to settle down.

Q: I think my cat's an addict! I grew some catnip for him, and I had to hide the plant to keep him from pulling it to bits. When he has catnip, he acts crazy. Should I break him of the catnip habit cold turkey? It can't be good for him, can it?

When I offered catnip to my last cat, she ignored it. That doesn't seem normal, either. -- A.K., via e-mail

A: Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed-out on a regular basis. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content. For the good of the plants, though, put the pot where he can't get to them and offer him fresh clippings as often as you like. It won't hurt him.

As for your previous cat not getting a buzz from the herb, that's OK, too. Not all cats like catnip; the ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected by the charm of catnip.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600