Summer is a great time to be a pet. The days are long and most kids are out of school. That leaves plenty of time for lots of attention and some serious fun.

But summer can also be dangerous. Playing or exercising a dog in the heat can bring on a lethal case of heat stroke. Burrs, foxtails and awns from parched grasses can cause painful infections, and the chemicals we use to keep our beautiful summer yards green and control pests can poison our pets.

Prevention is the best way to protect your pet, of course. Always keep an eye out for potential hazards, and do your best to minimize or remove them. Keep pets cool and calm in the hottest part of the day, and check frequently for plants and insect problems -- ticks are nasty in the summer. Finally, use household chemicals sparingly and according to label instructions, and store them properly and securely.

If your best intentions aren't enough, though, you may be taking an emergency trip to your veterinarian.

It's often hard to decide what's worth worrying about and what can wait until you can get your pet in during regular -- and less expensive -- hospital hours. I've spent enough time in emergency clinics to know that sometimes people waste their money through lack of knowledge, bringing pets in for such things as worms. (One time while working at an emergency clinic, I met an extremely upset woman who was convinced the tapeworm fragment coming out of her cat was the pet's intestines coming out.)

Other folks take too lightly such things as vomiting, which can be a sign of something deadly serious.

Anything is worth a call to the veterinarian if you're not sure, but some things definitely require urgent attention, no matter the day or hour. Among them:

-- Seizure, fainting or collapse;

-- Eye injury, no matter how mild;

-- Vomiting or diarrhea, anything more than two or three times within an hour or so;

-- Allergic reaction, such as swelling around the face or hives;

-- Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, snail or rodent bait, or human medication;

-- Snakebite;

-- Thermal stress, a pet that has been too cold or too hot;

-- Any wound that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite;

-- Traumatic injury, such as being hit by a car;

-- Breathing problems, including chronic coughing or near drowning;

-- Straining to urinate or defecate.

Sometimes an animal may seem fine, such as a dog after being hit by a car or a cat shaken by an attacking dog with no puncture wounds. But the story inside may be quite different, with internal injuries that need immediate veterinary attention. Any delay can cost your pet his life.

Most everything else can wait until morning, or even Monday if it's the weekend, but here I must add a plea on your pet's behalf: Just because something (BEGIN ITAL)can(END ITAL) wait, doesn't mean it (BEGIN ITAL)should(END ITAL) wait. If your pet's in pain, take him in. You know he'd do the same for you. Some of the signs of an animal in pain include panting, labored breathing, lethargy, restlessness, loss of appetite, aggression, hiding or crying out.

When in doubt on your pet's illness, call a veterinarian, no matter the time of day or night.

A final note on veterinary emergencies: Do you know where to go if you have one? Check with your veterinarian to see if the hospital is open 24 hours a day, or if staff is always on call in case of an emergency.

If your veterinarian does not offer after-hours care, the hospital usually works with one that does. Learn the location of the nearest emergency-care center, and put the phone number in a place where you can find it. Make sure you know how to get there, too.

The last thing you need to be doing with a sick pet at 2 a.m. is trying to find the phone book and asking for directions.

THE SCOOP

Although the beaks of parrots are constantly growing at a rate of 1-to-3 inches per year, depending on the species, a healthy pet does not need to have his beak trimmed. Your bird should keep his beak at the proper length through his normal chewing activities.

Contrary to what some bird books still preach, don't accept "beak trims" as a routine health-care measure -- they're not. Overgrowth of the beak is frequently a sign of illness. If you have any concerns about your bird's beak, check in with a veterinarian who specializes in bird care.

PETS ON THE WEB

The hip literary magazine The Bark, which offers the best writing on dogs within its pages, began life as a newsletter promoting off-leash recreation areas. They've come a long way from those humble beginnings, and their smart and savvy Web site(www.thebark.com) is almost as wonderful The Bark in print. Right now on the site is a collection of reader-submitted pictures of smiling dogs that will be sure to brighten any pet lover's day. You'll also find some of The Bark's best articles, lists of dog parks and services and a community section for sharing thoughts with other literate dog lovers.

Don't forget to stop at the shop for The Bark's distinctive "Dog Is My Co-Pilot" logo items. People comment on my T-shirt every time I wear it! One more necessary transaction: Subscribe to The Bark ($15 per year for five issues). It's more than my favorite pet magazine -- it's one of my very favorite publications, of any kind.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a huge snail invasion in our yard. They're shredding my bedding plants, and I have to do something. I know snail bait is deadly to pets, but what's the alternative? The snails must go! -- T.R., via e-mail

A: Like most gardeners, "hate" isn't all that strong a word to use when it comes to how I feel about snails. But I never, ever use snail bait, because it's deadly not just to snails and slugs but also to dogs, cats and birds.

Instead, when snail numbers become a problem, I conduct "snail safaris" at night with a flashlight, picking up snails by the shell and putting them in a bag that I then place in the garbage bin. Another alternative to traditional snail bait is iron phosphate, which is marketed under the brand name Sluggo.

If you suspect your pet has gotten into snail bait -- symptoms include frothing at the mouth, vomiting and convulsions -- see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's life depends on your prompt action.

Q: I've been adopted by a cat, a young male who's really affectionate. He has no collar or tag, but he was clearly someone's pet, not a wild cat. Since he showed up about the same time some neighbors moved, I'm guessing he was left behind. There is a problem, though. He sprays urine on my patio furniture. Will neutering stop this behavior? -- F.H., via e-mail

A: While cat abandonments are sadly common, it may be that your neighbors couldn't find him when they were moving. Before you assume that he was left behind, please try to contact your former neighbors. They may be missing him very much!

If attempts to locate his previous owners fail, you may adopt him in good conscience. Your new companion most certainly can be neutered, and the sooner the better. The health benefits of the surgery cannot be argued, and neutered editors ... make better pets since they're not spending all their energy thinking about mating.

While there are no guarantees with a cat who's sexually mature, there's a good possibility the urine-spraying -- a territory-marking behavior -- will diminish or even disappear after the surgery. Fighting and roaming should also diminish, which is good news for the cat, and for your budget for veterinary care.

Neutering is a very common and safe procedure. The cat's testicles will be removed through incisions in the scrotum. After-care normally involves keeping an eye on the cat, and making sure the area stays clean and dry. Your veterinarian may recommend keeping the cat inside, and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually occurs within three to five days.

We're in the height of kitten season now, which offers the best reason of all to have this cat neutered -- to remove the possibility of having him contribute to pet overpopulation.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When I started writing about pets 20 years ago, parrots had a reputation for being messy, hard-to-tame pets who'd just as soon bite you as look at you. They never left their cages, and the only reasons most people had for keeping parrots was because they were beautiful and because some of them would pick up a few words and phrases.

What a change today! While constant cleaning is still part of any parrot lover's routine, the change in pet potential from the wild-caught birds of yesterday to the hand-raised birds of today is dramatic. Well-socialized birds from reputable breeders and bird shops can be delightful pets who truly do become members of the family. For many of these pets, cages are where they stay at night, nothing more.

To achieve the full potential of a properly raised parrot, however, you need to set the right tone from the first. You'll need to assure your new bird that you are a wonderful, kind and fun person, but you also need to gently but firmly establish that you are not a mate or a servant, but rather the leader. This is done through consistent handling and gentle training -- never, ever through punishment.

It's not hard if you follow some basic guidelines:

-- Learn when to leave your bird alone. Birds are emotional and sometimes quite moody, and there are times when it's best just to let them be. As you come to know your bird better, you'll be able to identify clearly the times when he wants to be with you and when he wants to be left alone. Give him space when he needs it.

-- Control your bird's comings and goings. Instead of opening the cage door to let your pet out, ask your bird to step up onto your hand and then bring him out. Likewise, give the "step up" command when it's time to put your bird back in his cage. This routine may seem like no big deal to you, but you're sending a message of leadership to your bird.

-- Keep training sessions short and upbeat. Parrots are highly intelligent, but they don't have the longest attention spans. While trick-training is great for keeping them engaged, they get bored easily. Several short sessions a day -- just a couple minutes at a time -- are better than one or two long ones. Always end on a positive note!

-- Don't let your bird ignore a command. If you say "step up," persist until your bird complies, or you'll set yourself up for trouble down the road. Birds are very smart, and if they figure a way around you, they'll take it. Once your leadership starts to erode, you'll have a hard time reclaiming your position and behavior problems will result.

-- Keep your bird at a level lower than your head. In the bird world, higher birds are leader birds. In the beginning, keep your bird's cage and play gyms below the level of your chin. When playing with your bird, keep your arm low, too, and don't let your bird on your shoulder. Keep wings trimmed, too, both for safety's sake, and to control the elevated attitude that sometimes comes with the power of flight.

-- Talk to your bird. Make eye contact and say anything or everything that's on your mind. Birds learn by repetition and by mimicry, so start "naming" things for your bird. For example, when you want to pet your bird, ask him if it's OK, saying something like, "Want a pet?" or "Want a tickle?" or even "Tickle, tickle?" When your bird makes the connection, he'll drop his head to ask for petting -- or he may even use the phrase you've chosen!

Above all, don't ruin any good habits the breeder instilled in your bird by letting your pet become a demanding brat. Set limits and stick to them. Your bird will love you for it -- and you'll get more out of the relationship as well.

PETS ON THE WEB

After I wrote about one guinea pig site, I got an e-mail from the fan of another. Cavies Galore (www.caviesgalore.com) is an offbeat site celebrating the pet better known in the United States as the guinea pig. The site offers computer games with guinea pig themes, message boards and basic care advice. The creators also seem inordinately fond of guinea pig sayings, since the site offers several lists of them. (Example: "You know you're a cavy slave when your don't buy junk food so you can afford more parsley.")

THE SCOOP

While exercise is important for all dogs, it's important to plan activities during the cooler part of the day to prevent overheating.

Dogs who are overweight, out-of-condition, elderly or pug-nosed are especially at risk. For these dogs, heat stress can quickly turn lethal.

Don't take a chance with your dog's life. Keep exercise sessions short and plan them for early or late in the day. Stop at the first sign of overheating, such as heavy panting. Always have cool water available both for drinking and for wetting dogs down on warm days -- for the latter, concentrate on a constant flow of cool water to the belly.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I had dogs growing up, as did my husband. Since we've been married, we've been living in apartment and so haven't had space for a dog. We have a cat, Shelly, who is much adored.

We've bought our first home and plan to add a dog after we move in. We want to adopt a shelter dog, but we're at a loss how to choose. Our shelter mentions if a dog is good with cats, but how do they know? And is the information reliable? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Shelters and rescue groups can find out if a dog is good with cats by asking the animal's previous owners, or by exposing the dog to a cat and evaluating the response.

The latter isn't as awful as it sounds. Shelters don't haul out some terrified guest kitty to test a dog's reaction. The tester cat is usually a permanent resident of the shelter, often a staff favorite who has proven to be calm and disdainfully confident around dogs. Dogs who are aggressive toward the cat (but not people) are so noted, as are those who are too friendly (and will need training to leave a cat alone), are friendly but not intrusive (ideal), or couldn't care less about the cat (also fine). Ask the folks at the shelter how they determine cat tolerance in the case of any dog you're considering.

In general, I'd look for a quiet, gentle and well-mannered adult dog of 3 to 5 years of age or older who falls into the friendly but not intrusive category, preferably one who has lived with cats before. You'll find lots of these dogs in the shelters and rescue groups, if you're patient about looking.

When you find your dog, don't force the pets together. Let the cat decided how much interaction she wants, and always offer her an escape route to a dog-free area. It may take a month or more for the situation to settle down.

Q: I think my cat's an addict! I grew some catnip for him, and I had to hide the plant to keep him from pulling it to bits. When he has catnip, he acts crazy. Should I break him of the catnip habit cold turkey? It can't be good for him, can it?

When I offered catnip to my last cat, she ignored it. That doesn't seem normal, either. -- A.K., via e-mail

A: Since our cats don't need to stay alert on the job, pay the bills, get the kids to school or operate heavy machinery, they can afford to be blissed-out on a regular basis. So if your cat likes catnip, indulge him to his little heart's content. For the good of the plants, though, put the pot where he can't get to them and offer him fresh clippings as often as you like. It won't hurt him.

As for your previous cat not getting a buzz from the herb, that's OK, too. Not all cats like catnip; the ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed into some cats but not others. Kittens under the age of 3 months are also unaffected by the charm of catnip.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Is air travel safe for pets? While no one can guarantee a trouble-free trip, the good news is that the vast majority of pets get where they're going in fine shape. Even better news: Careful planning on your pet's behalf will help make things go even more smoothly.

Animals move through the airline system as unaccompanied cargo or as travelers' baggage. Unaccompanied pets and most animals traveling as baggage travel in pressurized cargo holds, while some small pets are allowed into the cabin as a carry-on. Before your pet flies:

-- Talk to the airline. Some carriers -- especially the no-frills companies -- don't take animals at all. Those that do have limits on the number of animals on a flight, typically two small pets in the passenger cabin, and not much more than that in the cargo hold. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers -- health certificate, and so on -- you'll need to bring. Airlines charge extra even for those pets who fly in a carry-on bag, so ask about fees in advance so you won't be surprised.

Also be aware that some airlines won't ship pets in the summer months, with embargoes starting as early as mid-May. The American Kennel Club keeps an updated list of airline policies, embargo dates and fees on its Web site at www.akc.org/love/dip/legislat/airline_chart0502.cfm.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the pug-nosed breeds of dogs and cats. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- For pets who'll be traveling in the cargo hold, use a hard-sided carrier designed for air travel, and make sure it's in good condition (no cracks in the plastic, no rust on the grating). The crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened.

Pets that are small enough to ride in the passenger cabin will be more comfortable in a soft-sided carrier. Sherpa and Samsonite both make popular carriers, but my favorite is made by a smaller American company, SturdiProducts (www.sturdibag.com; 800-779-8193). Sturdi carriers have flexible cloth-covered ribs that form a dome over the pet, keeping the animal's compartment as large as possible.

Carry-on pets should have a collar and ID tag, but that's not safe for pets traveling below. Instead, put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around the pet's neck, and make sure contact information is written large and indelibly on the outside of the crate. A water dish should be attached to the inside of the door grate so airline personnel can add water without opening the door.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when the weather is extreme, or when air traffic is heaviest. Avoid peak travel days, and be sure to choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. In summer, a night flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the winter.

-- Choose a direct flight; if that's not possible, try for a route with a single connection and a short layover. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground. Better yet: Choose a direct flight with an airline that has special handling available for pets, keeping them off the tarmac until just before flight time and transporting them to and from the plane in a climate-controlled van.

-- Ask about your pet, persistently but politely. Make your presence known! Confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made any connection en route. It wouldn't hurt to do what you can to make your pet stand out as more than mere cargo. One person I know puts a prominent sign on her retriever's kennel when he flies. "I am the beloved pet of a 5-year-old boy," it says.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally safer for your pet not to be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. In the end, you and your veterinarian should decide on this issue.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Air Transport Association, the trade group for the nation's airlines, offers information on its "Air Travel for Your Dog or Cat" Web page (www.airlines.org/publications/d.aspX?nid=926). The ATA details the preparation of a pet for air travel, how to set up the carrier and how to check on your pet en route.

THE SCOOP

A dog-show trick for keeping dogs cool while walking on warm days is to drape a towel over them and keep the towel dripping wet by adding cool water at regular intervals. Some folks have even gone so far as to make terry-cloth jackets, which you can sometimes find for sale at dog shows. The jackets have a smarter look and better fit, but a towel works just fine.

Please note that a cool towel is not acceptable treatment for a dog who already reached the point of overheating. If your dog is in heat distress -- frantic panting, glassy eyes, deep-red gum color -- immerse in cool (not ice-cold) water and head for the nearest veterinarian. Your dog's life depends on your prompt action.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have two cats from the same litter, both kept inside, boy and girl, not quite a year old. She got out once, but not for long. Now she's pregnant, and we wonder if her brother could be the dad. Is that possible? -- U.Y., via e-mail

A: Your letter reminds me of a phone call I once received from someone who couldn't understand how the family dog kept getting pregnant. No dog could have gotten to her, she said, since the dog's own son was always with her, and he didn't like other dogs.

I asked her if the male dog had been neutered, and the answer was no. I told her it was highly likely that the father of the puppies was also their half-brother.

"Don't they know they're mother and son?" she asked.

Uh, no.

Don't count on an imaginary feline prohibition against incest to keep your cats from mating. Please get the boy neutered now and spay the girl after the kittens are weaned. If you don't, you'll have more kittens on your hands, soon, since cats can get pregnant again within about a month (or less!) of delivering a litter.

Q: Our dog, a bichon frise, would much rather eat the cat's food than his own. If he can steal enough out of the cat's dish, or get into the bag, he'll fill up and won't touch his dog food. It would be easier to feed them both the same. Is there really much difference between cat food and dog food? -- F.D., via e-mail

A: Oh, I don't know, is there really much difference between a cat and a dog? The answer, to your question and to mine, is the same: Yes!

Cats are better off eating cat food, and dogs are better off eating dog food. That's because cats are what are called "obligate carnivores" -- they need to eat meat, the fresher the better. Dogs can get along fine without meat if they have to because their systems are not those of a true predator, but of a scavenger who takes what he can find. For some dogs, the higher protein levels in cat food can cause health problems, which is why no matter what your dog thinks, he needs to stick with food made for his own kind.

Keep your dog out of what he shouldn't be eating by keeping bags of cat food in a high, closed cabinet and by keeping cat dishes off-limits, either placing them on high counters or behind baby gates.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600