Is air travel safe for pets? While no one can guarantee a trouble-free trip, the good news is that the vast majority of pets get where they're going in fine shape. Even better news: Careful planning on your pet's behalf will help make things go even more smoothly.

Animals move through the airline system as unaccompanied cargo or as travelers' baggage. Unaccompanied pets and most animals traveling as baggage travel in pressurized cargo holds, while some small pets are allowed into the cabin as a carry-on. Before your pet flies:

-- Talk to the airline. Some carriers -- especially the no-frills companies -- don't take animals at all. Those that do have limits on the number of animals on a flight, typically two small pets in the passenger cabin, and not much more than that in the cargo hold. You also need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers -- health certificate, and so on -- you'll need to bring. Airlines charge extra even for those pets who fly in a carry-on bag, so ask about fees in advance so you won't be surprised.

Also be aware that some airlines won't ship pets in the summer months, with embargoes starting as early as mid-May. The American Kennel Club keeps an updated list of airline policies, embargo dates and fees on its Web site at www.akc.org/love/dip/legislat/airline_chart0502.cfm.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the pug-nosed breeds of dogs and cats. These animals find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle.

-- For pets who'll be traveling in the cargo hold, use a hard-sided carrier designed for air travel, and make sure it's in good condition (no cracks in the plastic, no rust on the grating). The crate should be just big enough for your pet to stand up and turn around in. Check and double-check that all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place and tightened.

Pets that are small enough to ride in the passenger cabin will be more comfortable in a soft-sided carrier. Sherpa and Samsonite both make popular carriers, but my favorite is made by a smaller American company, SturdiProducts (www.sturdibag.com; 800-779-8193). Sturdi carriers have flexible cloth-covered ribs that form a dome over the pet, keeping the animal's compartment as large as possible.

Carry-on pets should have a collar and ID tag, but that's not safe for pets traveling below. Instead, put an ID tag on a piece of elastic around the pet's neck, and make sure contact information is written large and indelibly on the outside of the crate. A water dish should be attached to the inside of the door grate so airline personnel can add water without opening the door.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when the weather is extreme, or when air traffic is heaviest. Avoid peak travel days, and be sure to choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport but also at the connecting and arriving airports. In summer, a night flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the winter.

-- Choose a direct flight; if that's not possible, try for a route with a single connection and a short layover. Most animal fatalities occur on the ground, when pets are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground. Better yet: Choose a direct flight with an airline that has special handling available for pets, keeping them off the tarmac until just before flight time and transporting them to and from the plane in a climate-controlled van.

-- Ask about your pet, persistently but politely. Make your presence known! Confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made any connection en route. It wouldn't hurt to do what you can to make your pet stand out as more than mere cargo. One person I know puts a prominent sign on her retriever's kennel when he flies. "I am the beloved pet of a 5-year-old boy," it says.

Contrary to popular belief, it's generally safer for your pet not to be tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he's not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. In the end, you and your veterinarian should decide on this issue.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Air Transport Association, the trade group for the nation's airlines, offers information on its "Air Travel for Your Dog or Cat" Web page (www.airlines.org/publications/d.aspX?nid=926). The ATA details the preparation of a pet for air travel, how to set up the carrier and how to check on your pet en route.

THE SCOOP

A dog-show trick for keeping dogs cool while walking on warm days is to drape a towel over them and keep the towel dripping wet by adding cool water at regular intervals. Some folks have even gone so far as to make terry-cloth jackets, which you can sometimes find for sale at dog shows. The jackets have a smarter look and better fit, but a towel works just fine.

Please note that a cool towel is not acceptable treatment for a dog who already reached the point of overheating. If your dog is in heat distress -- frantic panting, glassy eyes, deep-red gum color -- immerse in cool (not ice-cold) water and head for the nearest veterinarian. Your dog's life depends on your prompt action.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have two cats from the same litter, both kept inside, boy and girl, not quite a year old. She got out once, but not for long. Now she's pregnant, and we wonder if her brother could be the dad. Is that possible? -- U.Y., via e-mail

A: Your letter reminds me of a phone call I once received from someone who couldn't understand how the family dog kept getting pregnant. No dog could have gotten to her, she said, since the dog's own son was always with her, and he didn't like other dogs.

I asked her if the male dog had been neutered, and the answer was no. I told her it was highly likely that the father of the puppies was also their half-brother.

"Don't they know they're mother and son?" she asked.

Uh, no.

Don't count on an imaginary feline prohibition against incest to keep your cats from mating. Please get the boy neutered now and spay the girl after the kittens are weaned. If you don't, you'll have more kittens on your hands, soon, since cats can get pregnant again within about a month (or less!) of delivering a litter.

Q: Our dog, a bichon frise, would much rather eat the cat's food than his own. If he can steal enough out of the cat's dish, or get into the bag, he'll fill up and won't touch his dog food. It would be easier to feed them both the same. Is there really much difference between cat food and dog food? -- F.D., via e-mail

A: Oh, I don't know, is there really much difference between a cat and a dog? The answer, to your question and to mine, is the same: Yes!

Cats are better off eating cat food, and dogs are better off eating dog food. That's because cats are what are called "obligate carnivores" -- they need to eat meat, the fresher the better. Dogs can get along fine without meat if they have to because their systems are not those of a true predator, but of a scavenger who takes what he can find. For some dogs, the higher protein levels in cat food can cause health problems, which is why no matter what your dog thinks, he needs to stick with food made for his own kind.

Keep your dog out of what he shouldn't be eating by keeping bags of cat food in a high, closed cabinet and by keeping cat dishes off-limits, either placing them on high counters or behind baby gates.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

It was another of "those" e-mails, the kind I get almost every day, asking about "the farm."

You know "the farm." That place where people imagine their unmanageable dog will be welcomed, along with countless others. A farm where dogs run leash-free, with no children to bite, no cats to kill, no home or yard to destroy and no nearby neighbors to hear the barking, barking, barking.

"We can't handle our dog anymore," writes the reader, whose problem dog is now spending all his time in a 6-foot-by-10-foot chain-link run. "We need to find him a home on a farm."

Of course, no such farms exist. The responsibility for correcting your dog's behavior problems rests solely with you. His quality of life, and likely his very life, is at considerable risk. Dogs with serious behavior problems whose owners give up on them are often euthanized after adoption efforts fail.

It doesn't have to be that way. While some behavior problems aren't fixable, most can be. To accomplish such change, though, you have to be prepared to put some time into changing the situation. Quick-fix, halfhearted efforts are doomed from the start.

The first rule of solving any behavioral problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. Health issues that cause or contribute to behavior problems must first be accurately diagnosed and treated with the help of your veterinarian.

When your pet is healthy, your veterinarian can still be of use. While few veterinarians have the training or knowledge to help solve behavior problems, the number of those who do are growing -- and your vet may be one of them. Even those veterinarians who have no interest in behavior work can refer you to someone who can help. Loosely grouped under the term "behaviorist," these pet professionals can help you to fix what ails the relationship you have with your pet.

Consulting a behaviorist can save you time, money and aggravation. Time, because someone with experience in animal behavior can quickly determine the root of the problem, without the emotional baggage that a pet owner may bring to the situation. Money, because a consultation or two is a great deal cheaper than replacing a chewed couch or blitzed landscaping. And aggravation? You'll understand that one if you've ever lived with a problem pet.

One of the best choices for help is a veterinarian who has received additional certification in solving pet-behavior problems. These professionals have gone through years of study in animal health and behavior and have done a residency in the field as well. One plus with this group: They can prescribe medications to help correct behavior problems as part of an overall program.

People with other academic degrees (such as psychology) and people who've picked up their knowledge in the field also make themselves available for advising on behavior. Some in the latter group can be excellent, so don't let a lack of degrees deter you from getting help from someone who has studied in the "school of hard knocks" (or would that be the "school of bites and scratches"?).

Behaviorists are not "trainers" in the sense of offering group obedience classes to sharpen a pet's manners. Instead, they work one-on-one with you to solve a specific behavior problem. The consulting takes various forms. Some behaviorists consult by phone; others take appointments with or without your pet, while still others make house calls. All these can work, depending on the problem and the pet.

If you're in a situation where you're thinking of dumping your pet, ask your veterinarian for help, or call your closest college of veterinary medicine. And quit dreaming about that imaginary farm where all bad dogs are welcome. It exists only in those dreams.

PETS ON THE WEB

Although many dogs do fine in boarding kennels, or staying with friends, cats don't take easily to a change of venue. For many cats, the best care while you're away is in your home. While it's perfectly fine for a neighbor, a responsible teen, preteen or a friend to handle pet care in your home while you're gone, you might feel a little better with a professional pet sitter.

With a professional pet sitter, you don't have to worry if a youngster is as responsible as his parents say he is, and you don't have to impose upon your friends or neighbors. You can pretty much count on a professional pet sitter to come when they say they will, and care for your pets as you want them to.

Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) and the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (www.petsitters.org) offer education and certification to pet-sitters, and both sites offer referrals to sitters in your area.

THE SCOOP

Everybody appreciates cool refreshment on hot days, and that includes our pets. Keep pet water supplies cool by adding ice chips or cubes to the water supply of smaller pets, ice blocks for larger animals. Ice blocks can be made easily by freezing water in used margarine tubs.

Cats and dogs may also appreciate a frozen treat. Freeze no- or low-sodium broth in ice-cube trays -- and offer the cubes outside to minimize any mess.

Even if you don't want to bother with ice, be sure your pet is always kept supplied with lots of clean water. For caged pets, check to be sure that the delivery tube isn't clogged, blocking the flow of water (some parrots think it's a game to push food into the tube). For other animals, don't just add clean water on top of dirty in a filthy bowl -- scrub and refill the dish every day.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband and I have two kids (girl 8, boy 12), a dog, two cats and a rabbit. We've been thinking about getting a parrot, maybe a macaw, but a friend says birds carry diseases that can be passed on to humans. Is this true? -- L.D., via e-mail

A: Yes, it's true. It's also true that your dog, cat and rabbit could also pass on something nasty. Every animal with whom we share our lives has the potential to pass deadly or chronic health problems to humans -- viral, bacterial or parasitic. Medical conditions that can be passed from animals to humans are called "zoonotic."

People in higher-risk groups -- including people with immune-system problems, and young children -- are at a greater risk when living with pets. Some experts recommend that people in high-risk groups avoid birds (and other pets, especially reptiles) altogether.

Considering the importance of companionship, especially to someone who's struggling with a chronic illness, avoiding pets may be extreme, but it's a good idea to educate yourself on the risks. It's important to work with your veterinarian and physician, and use plenty of basic common sense when it comes to hygiene. With my large multispecies household, I seem to wash my hands about 20 times a day!

Allergies are another human health problem in relation to birds. If anyone in your family has allergies or asthma, you probably should consider avoiding certain species of pet birds, such as the cockatoo, which gives off lots of powdery white dust.

As an aside, do remember that parrot ownership is a very long commitment, since these birds can live from 30 to 70 years, depending on the species. Macaws, please note, are at the high end of those life spans. Where will your bird be in 50 years? Please think about it before you bring one into your life.

Q: My 2-year-old Lab weighs 94 pounds. How much should he weigh? He looks fine, but that seems like a lot. -- S.H., via e-mail

A: In every breed you'll find a range of sizes, and it's important to judge your dog individually. In general, a weight of 94 for a male Labrador seems too much by 10 to 20 pounds, but it may be OK for your particular dog. Note I said "may" -- Labradors are notorious chow hounds, and majority of the ones I see are overweight, some incredibly so!

You should be able to run your hands down your dog's sides without bumping over each rib. If you press in gently and slide the skin back and forth over the ribs you should easily be able to feel the ribs. Your dog should also have a "waist," or tuck up behind the ribcage, but not all that much. If you're still not sure, ask your veterinarian on your next visit.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Too many people think "punishment" first and foremost when it comes to dealing with a pet's behavior problem. These folks want an easy answer and are often all too willing to smack, shock, scream at or even mutilate their pets to get the desired result, sometimes without even considering approaches that are far kinder.

That's often true when it comes to cats who scratch furniture. Many people insist on declawing their cats before even finding out if they have a problem. Others declaw at the first sign of a trouble. Those who try to let their cats keep their claws often insist on yelling at them or hitting them when the animals claw furniture.

Cats needs to scratch, for physical and emotional reasons, and we need to provide our cats with places to dig in their claws joyfully. The primary requirements for a scratching post or cat tree are that it's sturdy, stable and well-placed.

If you're going to have any success in getting your cat to scratch where you want -- instead of somewhere you don't, such as the corner of your couch -- you need to choose a scratching place that's not only sturdy, but also made of a material your pet can enjoy digging into.

Stability is important, because the first time a scratching post or cat tree comes crashing down on your pet is the last time he'll ever use it, rest assured. As far as material, sisal, a natural ropelike covering, is popular with cats, as is a carpet with loops that aren't too shaggy.

Scratching posts are usually small, less than 3 feet in length, and either vertical on a wide base or horizontal, like a log. While posts are fine, many pets prefer large cat trees, especially those with shelves or perches. If you're even a little bit handy, you can make your own post or tree by using scrap lumber, inexpensive sisal and carpet remnants. The Amby's Declawing: Issues and Answers Web site (http://amby.com/cat_site/declaw.html) offers a wide variety of posts and trees, with links to free plans.

Scratching boxes offer another alternative, as do doorknob hangers made of cat-friendly scratching material. The shallow boxes are widely available, are filled with material that's pleasant to dig into, and are not quite as big a distraction from your decor as a large cat tree might be. Try to offer as many choices, in as many places as possible.

Be sure to place scratching items in places your cat frequents. A cat tree won't be of any use if it's hidden in a garage or basement, after all. You can ease the transition by positioning the scratching post, tree or box near the place where you're discouraging scratching. If that's not an aesthetically attractive spot, you can slowly move the scratching material to a more eye-pleasing location after your cat gets in the habit of using it.

You can make scratching posts, trees and boxes even more appealing by rubbing fresh catnip on them, adding toys, or by playing games with your cat on (or near) the scratching material. These strategies will help make your cat comfortable with preferred scratching areas, and will help to encourage return business.

Once you have pleasant places for your cat to scratch, you can discourage use of the furniture by covering the corners (or other scratched areas) with double-sided tape or panels of foil. The use of such materials is temporary: Once your cat gets in the habit of scratching where you want and leaving the unpleasantly padded furniture alone, you can remove the tape or foil and enjoy the look of your furniture again.

Always, remember to reward your cat with treats, praise and gentle physical attention when he or she scratches in a suitable spot. Keeping the tips of your cat's claws clipped will also help keep any damage to a minimum while your cat is learning.

Above all, be positive! Why punish your pet when you can offer alternatives, and reward your pet for using them?

PETS ON THE WEB

"For every cute, cuddly (non-human) creature out there, there is something horrible that you can potentially catch from it," warns Dr. Daniel Shapiro on his reference page (http://medicine.bu.edu/dshapiro/zoo1.htm) listing dozens of scary diseases domesticated animals can pass to people. On the more upbeat side, the Centers for Disease Control notes on its Healthy Pets Healthy People site (www.cdc.gov/healthypets/index.htm) that you are more likely to get sick from contaminated foods or water than from handling a companion animal.

While Shapiro's site is a simple, sobering list of what you can potentially pick up from a pet, the CDC's offering goes further into prevention (think hand-washing, lots of hand-washing). It's all information that every pet keeper should know, especially parents with pet-loving young children, since youngsters are particularly at risk.

THE SCOOP

Allowing a dog to ride without restraints in the back of a truck is never safe, which is why it's illegal in some states. During hot weather, the metal of a truck bed becomes as hot as a griddle and is painful for a dog to stand on. The best situation for the comfort and safety of your dog is to bring him into the cab of the truck.

If you must transport your pet in the back of a pickup, do it in an airline shipping crate, properly secured to the truck bed. A crate will keep the animal from jumping or being thrown from the truck, and will provide shade and cooler footing until you get where you're going. Remember, though, that a crate isn't much protection against the baking sun and should not be used to hold your dog once you've reached your destination.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've come to notice that there is a population of parrots in my neighborhood -- former pets, apparently. I find this appalling. How callous can people be to deliberately release their pets into the wild?

I don't have much sympathy either for folks who fail to keep wings trimmed, and then their birds accidentally escape. Would you mention that people need to keep the wings of their pet birds trimmed and not to let birds fly free? -- F.N., via e-mail

A: In many parts of the country, colonies of former pet birds survive and even thrive in their new habitats. Although warm places such as South Florida and Southern California are most hospitable to newly wild birds, parrots have been known to survive even in places that can get bitterly cold, such as Illinois and New York.

Although it's quite likely that some were set free by people who didn't want their birds any more (and were not responsible enough to make other arrangements), chances are that others accidentally got out of the house, as you've guessed. (The "set 'em free" approach to unwanted pets spells the end to many pets, not only birds but also mice, rats, rabbits and more.)

Some birds will make the transition to feral living, but many will not. And those who do will sometimes displace native birds, causing damage to the natural ecosystem. Both situations are compelling reasons to make sure your pet bird remains in captivity -- and that means keeping wings trimmed.

Wing trims also protect birds in the home. My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, reports treating a constant flow of pet birds who have been injured after flying into ceiling fans, sliding glass doors and even pots of boiling water on the stove.

So, yes, it's very important to keep wings trimmed. Because an improper trim can be physically and emotionally damaging to a bird, it's important to learn from someone who knows proper technique, such as an avian veterinarian or experienced bird groomer.

Q: We're trying to wiggle out our puppy's front tooth, which is loose with the new tooth growing in behind it. We don't want to pull too hard and hurt him, but we don't want it stuck there forever. What should we do? -- R.E., via e-mail

A: By the time you read this the tooth will almost certainly be gone on its own. Retained baby teeth are fairly common and nothing much to worry about, and most do work their way out without assistance. For the rare stubborn tooth, mention the problem to your veterinarian when your puppy goes in for the last round of vaccinations. Your veterinarian may choose to yank the tooth.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600