Too many people think "punishment" first and foremost when it comes to dealing with a pet's behavior problem. These folks want an easy answer and are often all too willing to smack, shock, scream at or even mutilate their pets to get the desired result, sometimes without even considering approaches that are far kinder.

That's often true when it comes to cats who scratch furniture. Many people insist on declawing their cats before even finding out if they have a problem. Others declaw at the first sign of a trouble. Those who try to let their cats keep their claws often insist on yelling at them or hitting them when the animals claw furniture.

Cats needs to scratch, for physical and emotional reasons, and we need to provide our cats with places to dig in their claws joyfully. The primary requirements for a scratching post or cat tree are that it's sturdy, stable and well-placed.

If you're going to have any success in getting your cat to scratch where you want -- instead of somewhere you don't, such as the corner of your couch -- you need to choose a scratching place that's not only sturdy, but also made of a material your pet can enjoy digging into.

Stability is important, because the first time a scratching post or cat tree comes crashing down on your pet is the last time he'll ever use it, rest assured. As far as material, sisal, a natural ropelike covering, is popular with cats, as is a carpet with loops that aren't too shaggy.

Scratching posts are usually small, less than 3 feet in length, and either vertical on a wide base or horizontal, like a log. While posts are fine, many pets prefer large cat trees, especially those with shelves or perches. If you're even a little bit handy, you can make your own post or tree by using scrap lumber, inexpensive sisal and carpet remnants. The Amby's Declawing: Issues and Answers Web site (http://amby.com/cat_site/declaw.html) offers a wide variety of posts and trees, with links to free plans.

Scratching boxes offer another alternative, as do doorknob hangers made of cat-friendly scratching material. The shallow boxes are widely available, are filled with material that's pleasant to dig into, and are not quite as big a distraction from your decor as a large cat tree might be. Try to offer as many choices, in as many places as possible.

Be sure to place scratching items in places your cat frequents. A cat tree won't be of any use if it's hidden in a garage or basement, after all. You can ease the transition by positioning the scratching post, tree or box near the place where you're discouraging scratching. If that's not an aesthetically attractive spot, you can slowly move the scratching material to a more eye-pleasing location after your cat gets in the habit of using it.

You can make scratching posts, trees and boxes even more appealing by rubbing fresh catnip on them, adding toys, or by playing games with your cat on (or near) the scratching material. These strategies will help make your cat comfortable with preferred scratching areas, and will help to encourage return business.

Once you have pleasant places for your cat to scratch, you can discourage use of the furniture by covering the corners (or other scratched areas) with double-sided tape or panels of foil. The use of such materials is temporary: Once your cat gets in the habit of scratching where you want and leaving the unpleasantly padded furniture alone, you can remove the tape or foil and enjoy the look of your furniture again.

Always, remember to reward your cat with treats, praise and gentle physical attention when he or she scratches in a suitable spot. Keeping the tips of your cat's claws clipped will also help keep any damage to a minimum while your cat is learning.

Above all, be positive! Why punish your pet when you can offer alternatives, and reward your pet for using them?

PETS ON THE WEB

"For every cute, cuddly (non-human) creature out there, there is something horrible that you can potentially catch from it," warns Dr. Daniel Shapiro on his reference page (http://medicine.bu.edu/dshapiro/zoo1.htm) listing dozens of scary diseases domesticated animals can pass to people. On the more upbeat side, the Centers for Disease Control notes on its Healthy Pets Healthy People site (www.cdc.gov/healthypets/index.htm) that you are more likely to get sick from contaminated foods or water than from handling a companion animal.

While Shapiro's site is a simple, sobering list of what you can potentially pick up from a pet, the CDC's offering goes further into prevention (think hand-washing, lots of hand-washing). It's all information that every pet keeper should know, especially parents with pet-loving young children, since youngsters are particularly at risk.

THE SCOOP

Allowing a dog to ride without restraints in the back of a truck is never safe, which is why it's illegal in some states. During hot weather, the metal of a truck bed becomes as hot as a griddle and is painful for a dog to stand on. The best situation for the comfort and safety of your dog is to bring him into the cab of the truck.

If you must transport your pet in the back of a pickup, do it in an airline shipping crate, properly secured to the truck bed. A crate will keep the animal from jumping or being thrown from the truck, and will provide shade and cooler footing until you get where you're going. Remember, though, that a crate isn't much protection against the baking sun and should not be used to hold your dog once you've reached your destination.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I've come to notice that there is a population of parrots in my neighborhood -- former pets, apparently. I find this appalling. How callous can people be to deliberately release their pets into the wild?

I don't have much sympathy either for folks who fail to keep wings trimmed, and then their birds accidentally escape. Would you mention that people need to keep the wings of their pet birds trimmed and not to let birds fly free? -- F.N., via e-mail

A: In many parts of the country, colonies of former pet birds survive and even thrive in their new habitats. Although warm places such as South Florida and Southern California are most hospitable to newly wild birds, parrots have been known to survive even in places that can get bitterly cold, such as Illinois and New York.

Although it's quite likely that some were set free by people who didn't want their birds any more (and were not responsible enough to make other arrangements), chances are that others accidentally got out of the house, as you've guessed. (The "set 'em free" approach to unwanted pets spells the end to many pets, not only birds but also mice, rats, rabbits and more.)

Some birds will make the transition to feral living, but many will not. And those who do will sometimes displace native birds, causing damage to the natural ecosystem. Both situations are compelling reasons to make sure your pet bird remains in captivity -- and that means keeping wings trimmed.

Wing trims also protect birds in the home. My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, reports treating a constant flow of pet birds who have been injured after flying into ceiling fans, sliding glass doors and even pots of boiling water on the stove.

So, yes, it's very important to keep wings trimmed. Because an improper trim can be physically and emotionally damaging to a bird, it's important to learn from someone who knows proper technique, such as an avian veterinarian or experienced bird groomer.

Q: We're trying to wiggle out our puppy's front tooth, which is loose with the new tooth growing in behind it. We don't want to pull too hard and hurt him, but we don't want it stuck there forever. What should we do? -- R.E., via e-mail

A: By the time you read this the tooth will almost certainly be gone on its own. Retained baby teeth are fairly common and nothing much to worry about, and most do work their way out without assistance. For the rare stubborn tooth, mention the problem to your veterinarian when your puppy goes in for the last round of vaccinations. Your veterinarian may choose to yank the tooth.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Summer is the time of year when some families pack it in, hustling to clear out of the old place and settle into the new one before the school year begins.

But moving is tough on families, pets included. Animals always know when something's amiss, even if they can't understand exactly what's changing, or why.

The key to moving pets is to keep them secure before and during the move, and settle them safely and quickly into a routine after. Start by ordering ID tags with the new address and phone number, so you'll have the tags securely attached to your pets' collars when moving day arrives. If you don't have a phone at your new residence yet, use a cell phone number, but don't let your pets go without ID, even for a minute.

Cats are a particular worry at moving time because they form a bond not only with the people in a home, but also with the home itself. Because of their mobility, it can be hard to keep them around the new home long enough for them to realize that this is where the people they love will now stay.

The family dog is a bit easier to deal with: Put his leash on and drive him to his new address. Show him his new, warm home and the securely fenced back yard. Unless the dog is a high jumper of Olympic caliber, he'll stay put while he adjusts.

Not so with free-roaming cats. The cases of cats returning to their previous homes are common for people who move short distances, and the instances of cats disappearing forever are just as common for families moving a great distance.

Confinement is essential when moving cats; it keeps them safe while they become used to their new territory and make it their own. Bring your cat inside, if he's not already an indoor cat, before the movers arrive. Set him up in a "safe room" -- a spare bathroom or bedroom is ideal -- and leave him be. Provide him with food and water, his bed, a scratching post, litter box and a couple of favorite toys while the packing and moving is under way.

The cat's ride to the new home is best undertaken in a carrier, especially for the animal who rarely sees the inside of a car. (If you don't have a carrier, buy one; they're inexpensive and keep your cat safe when he's on the go.)

At the new home, work the "leaving home" procedure in reverse: Put the cat into a "safe room" for a few days -- until the movers are gone, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled -- and then allow him to explore inside the house on his own terms after things calm down a bit.

Quickly re-establish a routine; pick a time and a place for feeding, and stick to it for all pets.

If you've been thinking about converting your free-roaming cat to a house dweller for his health and safety, moving to a new home is the perfect time to accomplish this. In your old home, you'd be constantly listening to your cat demanding to be let out into the rest of his territory. In a new home, he hasn't established any territory of his own yet, and you can make the new home his only turf by keeping him inside from day one.

If you don't want to convert him, keep him inside for a couple of weeks, until he seems relaxed. You can introduce your cat to the new yard by accompanying him on short tours with a harness and a leash, but in the end, you'll have to take your chances, open the door and hope for the best. Sound risky? It is! A lot of people lose free-roaming cats when they move, which is why I can't help but recommend starting an indoor life for your outdoor cat at moving time.

PETS ON THE WEB

Nopuppymills.com looks at the problems with mass-production puppy breeders. It includes articles on why many animal experts believe you should not support this industry, and how to avoid buying from puppy brokers. If you've ever found yourself humming "How Much Is That Puppy in the Window?" you need to view this site to find out just how high the cost truly is, to both animals and consumers.

THE SCOOP

If you're going to be giving in to your child's begging for a dog this summer, be sure that the responsibilities of caring for the animal aren't forgotten once the new-pet excitement wears off. Help your child find time for the humdrum (but essential) duties of pet care, from feeding and grooming to picking up the yard.

Try also to encourage exercise as part of the regular routine, for both the dog's sake and your child's. A walk or a game of fetch is good for both child and pet -- especially since studies show that both children and pets are far too sedentary, with obesity a growing problem for both.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you let your readers know of the reality of having rats as pets? Our daughter was bitten by an apparently healthy pet rat and ended up in the hospital for three days. She contracted a disease known as "rat-bite fever." I learned quite a bit about this after the fact, including that those who get the illness can die from it.

Our daughter suffered greatly, and the bills for several doctors, medications, tests and the hospital were in excess of $9,000.

Since the rat bite five years ago, we have rescued a boxer and a pug mix, so I don't think we are squeamish about pets and kids. Our dog even sleeps in the same bed as our daughter. But knowing what I have learned about rats, I now think that they are stupid pets. I wish I could do more to spread the word. -- L.B., via e-mail

A: Although I am very sorry for what happened to your daughter, the truth is that more children are badly hurt every year riding skateboards or bicycles, playing soccer or even riding in the family car than will contract rat-bite fever from a pet. According to the Centers for Disease Control, the disease is rare in the United States.

In my 20 years of writing about pets, yours is the first time I've heard from a reader about a rat bite, while in the same period of time I've received countless letters and e-mails about dog bites as well as cat bites and scratches. That doesn't minimize the harm done to your daughter, but it does keep the risk in perspective for other parents. Rats can be such affectionate and entertaining pets for children that I'd hate to have parents avoid them because of the small chance of a bite proving to be a big problem.

The truth is that all pets carry some degree of risk to humans. The benefits of having pets in our children's lives generally outweigh the risk of injury or disease, especially if we minimize those risks by choosing, socializing and caring for pets properly. Accidents do happen, of course, but many can be prevented with proper precautions.

Again, I am very sorry for what happened to your daughter, and I appreciate you bringing this little-known problem to my attention.

Q: Our canary is in a continuous state of being "puffed up," and he doesn't seem to be chirping at all. I realize he is probably sick, but I am at a loss as to what to do about it. Would you please let me know what it could be and what I can do? -- M.S., via e-mail

A: When we take pets into our homes, we assume responsibility for their well-being, and that responsibility includes taking them to a veterinarian when they may be ill.

When pet birds appear to be sick, they are often very sick indeed. That's because as prey animals, birds in the wild do everything they can to keep a healthy appearance. Any creature toward the bottom of the food chain who acts sick will attract the attention of a predator all too eager to find an easy meal.

Changes in appearance, behavior or eating habits can be symptoms of illness in birds, and should be checked out by a veterinarian, preferably one with experience and an interest in avian medicine. When it comes to a pet's health, there's no substitute for proper diagnosis and treatment by a good veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A friend of mine just took a job in my city and is in the process of moving from his home two counties away. While sorting things out, he stayed with me for a while, along with the dog he jokingly calls a "Macedonian sable-hound" (translation: Labrador-hound mix).

The first week he and his dog stayed with me, I noticed she had no tag on her collar. He shrugged it off. "Chula doesn't like wearing a tag," he said.

I pointed out that Chula was 90 miles from the neighborhood she thought of as home, and had shown herself to be quite capable of jumping a fence my dogs never bother with. He got the message: When he and the dog turned up at my house again a few days later, she was wearing a shiny new ID tag with his cell phone number on it.

While any dog can become lost at any time, a dog who has just been adopted or moved is at a higher risk of going missing. The best time to protect your dog -- old or new, young or not so -- is before he gets out.

Here's a checklist of precautions that will likely keep your dog from getting loose, and will increase your chances of finding him if he does get out:

-- Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards, or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Are latches secure, with locks in place? Make sure your fence and gates are as secure as can be. If you have children repeatedly going in and out, invest in a device that pulls the gate closed automatically.

-- Check your dog. Don't waste time before getting your dog a license and an ID tag. If your pet ends up in the shelter, a license buys him extra time. And if someone finds him when the shelter's closed, an ID tag with your phone number speeds up the reunion.

Instead of your pet's name and your address on the ID tag, use the word "reward" and as many phone numbers as you can fit. I like to trust in the generous nature of most people, but count on the interest in a little bit of extra money for the rest.

Microchip implants, which carry ID numbers, are a great idea. Make sure your pet's permanent ID is registered so if someone discovers it, a fast reunion is possible. The American Kennel Club's Companion Animal Recovery service, which is not just for purebreds or dogs, can help in the United States and Canada. Call (800) 252-7894 or visit www.akccar.org for more information. I also like to recommend a 24-hour help service, like 1-800-HELP4PETS (www.help4pets.com), which can authorize veterinary care or boarding if you cannot be found and your pet needs assistance.

-- Plan for the worst. Keep current, clear pictures of your pets on hand -- you'll need them to throw together a flier in an emergency. If you lose your pet, put fliers everywhere you can and place a "lost" ad in the newspaper right away -- don't waste precious time hoping your pet will wander home. And don't forget the magic word: "Reward!"

Scan the neighborhood, watch "found" ads, and check the shelters every other day in person. Don't give up too soon -- pets have been located weeks after their disappearance.

If you've never lost a pet, being vigilant is sometimes tough -- but you must. Make sure that ID tags stay current and readable, and keep an eye on those fences and gates. In this game, you make your own luck.

PETS ON THE WEB

Artist Stephen Huneck has the gift of understanding animals, especially dogs, and presenting them in colorful, whimsical ways that will make any pet lover smile -- and many to reach for their wallets. After an illness almost killed him, the artist decided to build a chapel on his Vermont property open to people of all creeds and dogs of all breeds, celebrating the special bond between people and their canine companions.

For those who can't make it to visit the chapel in person, Huneck's Dog Chapel Web site (www.dogchapel.com) provides a look into this lovely little building, with its dog-themed stained class and furnishings. The site also offers a free screen saver, and a bulletin board for visitors to post pictures of their own pets.

THE SCOOP

A few years ago it was Febreze; now it's Swiffer. In the last couple of weeks I've received hundreds of e-mail "warnings" forwarded by well-meaning readers who in turn had it forwarded to them. The e-mail tells of a dog and two cats who died after walking across a damp floor that had been cleaned with the product and claims that Swiffer is "one molecule" off the chemical formulation of antifreeze, the latter a deadly risk to pets.

Like the Febreze e-mail scare, the dire warnings about Swiffer are off-base. The Snopes Web site (www.snopes.com) debunks this latest urban myth, and speculates that the rumors might be spread by those with a grudge against manufacturer Procter & Gamble.

The bottom line on Febreze and Swiffer? As with all household cleaning products, read the label carefully and follow directions to the letter. And don't forward e-mail warnings you don't know to be true.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How can you in all honesty say that "one does tend to meet more small canine miscreants than large ones"? My last dog weighed in at 10 pounds, and during his 17 years he was attacked by a standard poodle, two pit bulls, two that were of unknown origin and a Heinz 57. And in each case, my dog was on a leash; the others weren't.

The statement "an ill-mannered little dog's antics are not only tolerated but also too often encouraged" is a blatant generalization and reeks of unprofessionalism.

Vent your retribution someplace else. I don't believe your column is the place for you to blame the dog world for a bad experience you had in a pet store. I have my doubts that your dogs are perfect. -- K.R., via e-mail

Q: Would you let me share my story of a little dog with bad manners? We had to stop going to one local park because of a woman who would not leash her little bully. When he approached my 126-pound male growling and showing teeth, I told my dog to sit-stay. The small dog proceeded to jump on my dog's back. The little dog would not stop biting even when I pulled my dog away! Thank goodness the small dog was not injured, except for his pride. 

The woman who owned the dog said "nothing like this has ever happened before," even though her dog had approached us in this manner in the past. I informed her that it would only take one time with the wrong dog and her dog would be seriously injured or worse.

I drove by the park a few months later and guess what? There was the little dog again running free. I am so glad that someone finally addressed the issue of little dogs with bad manners. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Quite a few people wrote to complain I either didn't like or was picking on little dogs. Not so in either case. One of my own dogs is little (my toy spaniel, Chase), and small dogs have always been among my favorites, for their oversized personalities.

What I was addressing was the tendency of the owners of small dogs to allow them to misbehave in ways that put them at risk of being chomped by bigger dogs. Dogs will be dogs, after all, and it's up to us to protect them from harm.

The issue of little dogs in off-leash parks is a controversial one, but for their own safety I cannot recommend that small dogs be turned loose with big ones in an off-leash environment. It's just too dangerous! Some large dogs see small ones more as prey than as other dogs, and it's just too easy for a small dog to be hurt or killed before the owners have time to react.

Recognizing this problem, some dog parks have put in separate areas for small dogs to play safely with others of their own size. I think these are an excellent way to give small dogs the exercise and socialization they need without putting them at risk.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600