Summer is the time of year when some families pack it in, hustling to clear out of the old place and settle into the new one before the school year begins.

But moving is tough on families, pets included. Animals always know when something's amiss, even if they can't understand exactly what's changing, or why.

The key to moving pets is to keep them secure before and during the move, and settle them safely and quickly into a routine after. Start by ordering ID tags with the new address and phone number, so you'll have the tags securely attached to your pets' collars when moving day arrives. If you don't have a phone at your new residence yet, use a cell phone number, but don't let your pets go without ID, even for a minute.

Cats are a particular worry at moving time because they form a bond not only with the people in a home, but also with the home itself. Because of their mobility, it can be hard to keep them around the new home long enough for them to realize that this is where the people they love will now stay.

The family dog is a bit easier to deal with: Put his leash on and drive him to his new address. Show him his new, warm home and the securely fenced back yard. Unless the dog is a high jumper of Olympic caliber, he'll stay put while he adjusts.

Not so with free-roaming cats. The cases of cats returning to their previous homes are common for people who move short distances, and the instances of cats disappearing forever are just as common for families moving a great distance.

Confinement is essential when moving cats; it keeps them safe while they become used to their new territory and make it their own. Bring your cat inside, if he's not already an indoor cat, before the movers arrive. Set him up in a "safe room" -- a spare bathroom or bedroom is ideal -- and leave him be. Provide him with food and water, his bed, a scratching post, litter box and a couple of favorite toys while the packing and moving is under way.

The cat's ride to the new home is best undertaken in a carrier, especially for the animal who rarely sees the inside of a car. (If you don't have a carrier, buy one; they're inexpensive and keep your cat safe when he's on the go.)

At the new home, work the "leaving home" procedure in reverse: Put the cat into a "safe room" for a few days -- until the movers are gone, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled -- and then allow him to explore inside the house on his own terms after things calm down a bit.

Quickly re-establish a routine; pick a time and a place for feeding, and stick to it for all pets.

If you've been thinking about converting your free-roaming cat to a house dweller for his health and safety, moving to a new home is the perfect time to accomplish this. In your old home, you'd be constantly listening to your cat demanding to be let out into the rest of his territory. In a new home, he hasn't established any territory of his own yet, and you can make the new home his only turf by keeping him inside from day one.

If you don't want to convert him, keep him inside for a couple of weeks, until he seems relaxed. You can introduce your cat to the new yard by accompanying him on short tours with a harness and a leash, but in the end, you'll have to take your chances, open the door and hope for the best. Sound risky? It is! A lot of people lose free-roaming cats when they move, which is why I can't help but recommend starting an indoor life for your outdoor cat at moving time.

PETS ON THE WEB

Nopuppymills.com looks at the problems with mass-production puppy breeders. It includes articles on why many animal experts believe you should not support this industry, and how to avoid buying from puppy brokers. If you've ever found yourself humming "How Much Is That Puppy in the Window?" you need to view this site to find out just how high the cost truly is, to both animals and consumers.

THE SCOOP

If you're going to be giving in to your child's begging for a dog this summer, be sure that the responsibilities of caring for the animal aren't forgotten once the new-pet excitement wears off. Help your child find time for the humdrum (but essential) duties of pet care, from feeding and grooming to picking up the yard.

Try also to encourage exercise as part of the regular routine, for both the dog's sake and your child's. A walk or a game of fetch is good for both child and pet -- especially since studies show that both children and pets are far too sedentary, with obesity a growing problem for both.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you let your readers know of the reality of having rats as pets? Our daughter was bitten by an apparently healthy pet rat and ended up in the hospital for three days. She contracted a disease known as "rat-bite fever." I learned quite a bit about this after the fact, including that those who get the illness can die from it.

Our daughter suffered greatly, and the bills for several doctors, medications, tests and the hospital were in excess of $9,000.

Since the rat bite five years ago, we have rescued a boxer and a pug mix, so I don't think we are squeamish about pets and kids. Our dog even sleeps in the same bed as our daughter. But knowing what I have learned about rats, I now think that they are stupid pets. I wish I could do more to spread the word. -- L.B., via e-mail

A: Although I am very sorry for what happened to your daughter, the truth is that more children are badly hurt every year riding skateboards or bicycles, playing soccer or even riding in the family car than will contract rat-bite fever from a pet. According to the Centers for Disease Control, the disease is rare in the United States.

In my 20 years of writing about pets, yours is the first time I've heard from a reader about a rat bite, while in the same period of time I've received countless letters and e-mails about dog bites as well as cat bites and scratches. That doesn't minimize the harm done to your daughter, but it does keep the risk in perspective for other parents. Rats can be such affectionate and entertaining pets for children that I'd hate to have parents avoid them because of the small chance of a bite proving to be a big problem.

The truth is that all pets carry some degree of risk to humans. The benefits of having pets in our children's lives generally outweigh the risk of injury or disease, especially if we minimize those risks by choosing, socializing and caring for pets properly. Accidents do happen, of course, but many can be prevented with proper precautions.

Again, I am very sorry for what happened to your daughter, and I appreciate you bringing this little-known problem to my attention.

Q: Our canary is in a continuous state of being "puffed up," and he doesn't seem to be chirping at all. I realize he is probably sick, but I am at a loss as to what to do about it. Would you please let me know what it could be and what I can do? -- M.S., via e-mail

A: When we take pets into our homes, we assume responsibility for their well-being, and that responsibility includes taking them to a veterinarian when they may be ill.

When pet birds appear to be sick, they are often very sick indeed. That's because as prey animals, birds in the wild do everything they can to keep a healthy appearance. Any creature toward the bottom of the food chain who acts sick will attract the attention of a predator all too eager to find an easy meal.

Changes in appearance, behavior or eating habits can be symptoms of illness in birds, and should be checked out by a veterinarian, preferably one with experience and an interest in avian medicine. When it comes to a pet's health, there's no substitute for proper diagnosis and treatment by a good veterinarian.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A friend of mine just took a job in my city and is in the process of moving from his home two counties away. While sorting things out, he stayed with me for a while, along with the dog he jokingly calls a "Macedonian sable-hound" (translation: Labrador-hound mix).

The first week he and his dog stayed with me, I noticed she had no tag on her collar. He shrugged it off. "Chula doesn't like wearing a tag," he said.

I pointed out that Chula was 90 miles from the neighborhood she thought of as home, and had shown herself to be quite capable of jumping a fence my dogs never bother with. He got the message: When he and the dog turned up at my house again a few days later, she was wearing a shiny new ID tag with his cell phone number on it.

While any dog can become lost at any time, a dog who has just been adopted or moved is at a higher risk of going missing. The best time to protect your dog -- old or new, young or not so -- is before he gets out.

Here's a checklist of precautions that will likely keep your dog from getting loose, and will increase your chances of finding him if he does get out:

-- Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards, or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Are latches secure, with locks in place? Make sure your fence and gates are as secure as can be. If you have children repeatedly going in and out, invest in a device that pulls the gate closed automatically.

-- Check your dog. Don't waste time before getting your dog a license and an ID tag. If your pet ends up in the shelter, a license buys him extra time. And if someone finds him when the shelter's closed, an ID tag with your phone number speeds up the reunion.

Instead of your pet's name and your address on the ID tag, use the word "reward" and as many phone numbers as you can fit. I like to trust in the generous nature of most people, but count on the interest in a little bit of extra money for the rest.

Microchip implants, which carry ID numbers, are a great idea. Make sure your pet's permanent ID is registered so if someone discovers it, a fast reunion is possible. The American Kennel Club's Companion Animal Recovery service, which is not just for purebreds or dogs, can help in the United States and Canada. Call (800) 252-7894 or visit www.akccar.org for more information. I also like to recommend a 24-hour help service, like 1-800-HELP4PETS (www.help4pets.com), which can authorize veterinary care or boarding if you cannot be found and your pet needs assistance.

-- Plan for the worst. Keep current, clear pictures of your pets on hand -- you'll need them to throw together a flier in an emergency. If you lose your pet, put fliers everywhere you can and place a "lost" ad in the newspaper right away -- don't waste precious time hoping your pet will wander home. And don't forget the magic word: "Reward!"

Scan the neighborhood, watch "found" ads, and check the shelters every other day in person. Don't give up too soon -- pets have been located weeks after their disappearance.

If you've never lost a pet, being vigilant is sometimes tough -- but you must. Make sure that ID tags stay current and readable, and keep an eye on those fences and gates. In this game, you make your own luck.

PETS ON THE WEB

Artist Stephen Huneck has the gift of understanding animals, especially dogs, and presenting them in colorful, whimsical ways that will make any pet lover smile -- and many to reach for their wallets. After an illness almost killed him, the artist decided to build a chapel on his Vermont property open to people of all creeds and dogs of all breeds, celebrating the special bond between people and their canine companions.

For those who can't make it to visit the chapel in person, Huneck's Dog Chapel Web site (www.dogchapel.com) provides a look into this lovely little building, with its dog-themed stained class and furnishings. The site also offers a free screen saver, and a bulletin board for visitors to post pictures of their own pets.

THE SCOOP

A few years ago it was Febreze; now it's Swiffer. In the last couple of weeks I've received hundreds of e-mail "warnings" forwarded by well-meaning readers who in turn had it forwarded to them. The e-mail tells of a dog and two cats who died after walking across a damp floor that had been cleaned with the product and claims that Swiffer is "one molecule" off the chemical formulation of antifreeze, the latter a deadly risk to pets.

Like the Febreze e-mail scare, the dire warnings about Swiffer are off-base. The Snopes Web site (www.snopes.com) debunks this latest urban myth, and speculates that the rumors might be spread by those with a grudge against manufacturer Procter & Gamble.

The bottom line on Febreze and Swiffer? As with all household cleaning products, read the label carefully and follow directions to the letter. And don't forward e-mail warnings you don't know to be true.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How can you in all honesty say that "one does tend to meet more small canine miscreants than large ones"? My last dog weighed in at 10 pounds, and during his 17 years he was attacked by a standard poodle, two pit bulls, two that were of unknown origin and a Heinz 57. And in each case, my dog was on a leash; the others weren't.

The statement "an ill-mannered little dog's antics are not only tolerated but also too often encouraged" is a blatant generalization and reeks of unprofessionalism.

Vent your retribution someplace else. I don't believe your column is the place for you to blame the dog world for a bad experience you had in a pet store. I have my doubts that your dogs are perfect. -- K.R., via e-mail

Q: Would you let me share my story of a little dog with bad manners? We had to stop going to one local park because of a woman who would not leash her little bully. When he approached my 126-pound male growling and showing teeth, I told my dog to sit-stay. The small dog proceeded to jump on my dog's back. The little dog would not stop biting even when I pulled my dog away! Thank goodness the small dog was not injured, except for his pride. 

The woman who owned the dog said "nothing like this has ever happened before," even though her dog had approached us in this manner in the past. I informed her that it would only take one time with the wrong dog and her dog would be seriously injured or worse.

I drove by the park a few months later and guess what? There was the little dog again running free. I am so glad that someone finally addressed the issue of little dogs with bad manners. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Quite a few people wrote to complain I either didn't like or was picking on little dogs. Not so in either case. One of my own dogs is little (my toy spaniel, Chase), and small dogs have always been among my favorites, for their oversized personalities.

What I was addressing was the tendency of the owners of small dogs to allow them to misbehave in ways that put them at risk of being chomped by bigger dogs. Dogs will be dogs, after all, and it's up to us to protect them from harm.

The issue of little dogs in off-leash parks is a controversial one, but for their own safety I cannot recommend that small dogs be turned loose with big ones in an off-leash environment. It's just too dangerous! Some large dogs see small ones more as prey than as other dogs, and it's just too easy for a small dog to be hurt or killed before the owners have time to react.

Recognizing this problem, some dog parks have put in separate areas for small dogs to play safely with others of their own size. I think these are an excellent way to give small dogs the exercise and socialization they need without putting them at risk.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

To keep your cat healthy, you must be able to recognize what is normal for your pet so you can tell when something isn't right. Changes in appetite, drinking habits, litter-box routines, grooming, and even a change in the sound of your cat's voice can all mean trouble -- and should mean a trip to the veterinarian.

Physical changes are important, too. A monthly hands-on examination will help you become aware of changes that could signify something serious.

Before starting a hands-on exam, though, stand back and study your pet for a few minutes. Consider her posture, activity level, gait, coat and overall appearance to gauge an impression of current health. Trouble signs include exposed skin, thin or dry coat, ribs showing, sluggishness, limping, or just lack of "spring" in her step.

Pick up your cat and head for the bathroom scale. Note your weight with your cat, then yours alone. The difference is your cat's weight, and it should be between 8 and 10 pounds. Your cat is normal if a comfortable pad of fat lies over her ribs but you can still feel the ribs if you press your hands in gently. A difference of a pound up or down is fine over the course of a few months; anything more or rapid weight loss is reason for concern.

Now for the hands-on part. Here's what to look for:

-- Nose. Your cat's nose should be moist and clean, not dry, scabbed or cracked. There should be no discharge or bleeding.

-- Eyes. Probably the most beautiful part of any cat, eyes should bright, moist and clear, centered between the eyelids, with pupils of equal size. Eyes that are dull or sunken, that appear dry or have thick discharge are not right. Take your cat into a darkened room, then quickly turn on a light. The pupils should contract quickly, with no difference between them.

-- Ears. The skin should be clean, dry, smooth and without wounds. The ear canal should be clean and almost odor-free. Crust, moisture, discharge or strong odor in the ear canal is bad news, as is pain at the touch or an unusual way of holding her head or ears.

-- The mouth. Your cat's teeth should be clean and white, with gums that are uniformly pink. Press on your pet's gum with your finger or thumb and release quickly. The color will be white but should return to the same color as the surrounding tissue within one or two seconds. This is a sign your cat's circulatory system is working well. Problem signs here include loose or missing teeth, tartar, or gums that are red, pale, inflamed or sore.

-- Breathing. It should be hard to hear your cat breathe, and her chest wall should move easily in and out as she does. Most of the act of breathing should be performed by the chest wall; the stomach should barely move. "Crackles" or wheezes indicate a problem, as does labored or rapid breathing.

-- The abdomen. Start just behind the ribs and gently press your hands into the abdomen. Proceed toward the rear of your pet, passing your hands gently over the abdomen. Some bumps should be there -- They're the internal organs, such as the kidneys. You should find no other lumps, bumps or masses, though, and your pet should feel no discomfort as you press gently into her.

-- Hydration. Check to ensure your cat has enough fluids by pulling the skin just behind her shoulder blades into a tent and then releasing quickly. Your pet's skin should snap immediately back into position. Another good sign of hydration is that the gums just above the teeth are moist when touched.

Chances are your cat will check out fine, in which case your exam should turn into a long, loving petting session. If anything came up that worries you, see your veterinarian to ensure your cat's good health.

THE SCOOP

Warmer weather always means an increase in the number of "skunkings." While it's important to keep your pets away from wild animals because of the threat of rabies, the truth is that some skunks are pretty quick on the draw when it comes to spraying. Your pet doesn't even need to get that close to get zapped.

Keep this recipe and ingredients at hand, just in case: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from most drugstores), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water. Do not mix in advance or try to store in a closed container.

PETS ON THE WEB

Summer is not a safe time to travel with pets, particularly when it comes to air travel. Time spent waiting to be unloaded or loaded in the heat can be lethal, which is why many airlines place an embargo on air travel for most pets in the warmer months. The Humane Society of the United States keeps a cheat sheet of airline pet policies on its Web site, at www.hsus.org/ace/11860. If you plan to fly with your pet, talk to your airline well in advance to make sure you're in compliance with their policies and clear on the fees.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have the worst Jekyll-and-Hyde cat in the world when it comes to going to the veterinarian. Shannara is a holy terror, and she seems to want to take a piece out of anyone from the minute the carrier comes out of the closet. Our veterinarian says she's used to cats like ours, but I just wonder if there's any way to make things easier on our vet, on us and our cat. When not faced with a trip to the veterinarian, she's the sweetest little thing! -- V.K., via e-mail

A: Work with your veterinarian to come up with a strategy to make the visit easier for you all, and realize that the staff will have to handle your pet firmly to prevent injuries to your cat and the people around her. Be sure you're using a hard-sided carrier for these trips -- never try to hold an angry cat in your arms, or transport her in something that lends very little protection, like a pillowcase.

You might also consider using a mobile veterinarian. Although your cat won't be any more pleased to see a veterinarian who makes house calls, at least she'll be spared the trauma of travel.

The temptation when you have a cat who hates the veterinarian is to avoid routine preventive veterinary care entirely. It's not uncommon for cats like these to never see a veterinarian after that first visit has gone so horribly wrong. If you go this route -- and I'm not recommending it, just acknowledging it as a choice many cat lovers make -- the responsibility for spotting illness falls squarely on your shoulders. Be aware of changes in your cat's body, attitude or behavior, all of which can indicate illness and necessitate a trip to the veterinarian's, whether your cat likes it or not.

Q: Do you know whether a dog's mouth is cleaner than a human's? Doesn't seem right to me, but I have a bet on this. -- J.F., via e-mail

A. I brush my teeth two or three times a day and visit the dentist regularly for a thorough cleaning. With my dogs, I'm sadly hit-or-miss on brushing: I try to manage it once or twice a week. They do get dental cleanings from their veterinarian on a regular basis, but still ... their dental care isn't as good as mine. And I bet in this matter I'm a pretty typical pet lover.

But there's another reason I don't trust the cleanliness of the canine mouth: A dog's opinion of what's desirable or even edible is very different from our own. Most dogs cannot pass up any opportunity to munch on the solid contents of cat boxes, or eat any other kind of poop, rotting food or other disgusting item they find on walks.

While I don't get too worked up about doggy kisses, I sure don't think they come from the cleanest of mouths. I'm not sure what side of the bet you're on, but I wouldn't put my money on any dog's mouth being cleaner than a human's.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600