A friend of mine just took a job in my city and is in the process of moving from his home two counties away. While sorting things out, he stayed with me for a while, along with the dog he jokingly calls a "Macedonian sable-hound" (translation: Labrador-hound mix).

The first week he and his dog stayed with me, I noticed she had no tag on her collar. He shrugged it off. "Chula doesn't like wearing a tag," he said.

I pointed out that Chula was 90 miles from the neighborhood she thought of as home, and had shown herself to be quite capable of jumping a fence my dogs never bother with. He got the message: When he and the dog turned up at my house again a few days later, she was wearing a shiny new ID tag with his cell phone number on it.

While any dog can become lost at any time, a dog who has just been adopted or moved is at a higher risk of going missing. The best time to protect your dog -- old or new, young or not so -- is before he gets out.

Here's a checklist of precautions that will likely keep your dog from getting loose, and will increase your chances of finding him if he does get out:

-- Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards, or enticing gaps at the baseline that could be opened up with a little digging? Are latches secure, with locks in place? Make sure your fence and gates are as secure as can be. If you have children repeatedly going in and out, invest in a device that pulls the gate closed automatically.

-- Check your dog. Don't waste time before getting your dog a license and an ID tag. If your pet ends up in the shelter, a license buys him extra time. And if someone finds him when the shelter's closed, an ID tag with your phone number speeds up the reunion.

Instead of your pet's name and your address on the ID tag, use the word "reward" and as many phone numbers as you can fit. I like to trust in the generous nature of most people, but count on the interest in a little bit of extra money for the rest.

Microchip implants, which carry ID numbers, are a great idea. Make sure your pet's permanent ID is registered so if someone discovers it, a fast reunion is possible. The American Kennel Club's Companion Animal Recovery service, which is not just for purebreds or dogs, can help in the United States and Canada. Call (800) 252-7894 or visit www.akccar.org for more information. I also like to recommend a 24-hour help service, like 1-800-HELP4PETS (www.help4pets.com), which can authorize veterinary care or boarding if you cannot be found and your pet needs assistance.

-- Plan for the worst. Keep current, clear pictures of your pets on hand -- you'll need them to throw together a flier in an emergency. If you lose your pet, put fliers everywhere you can and place a "lost" ad in the newspaper right away -- don't waste precious time hoping your pet will wander home. And don't forget the magic word: "Reward!"

Scan the neighborhood, watch "found" ads, and check the shelters every other day in person. Don't give up too soon -- pets have been located weeks after their disappearance.

If you've never lost a pet, being vigilant is sometimes tough -- but you must. Make sure that ID tags stay current and readable, and keep an eye on those fences and gates. In this game, you make your own luck.

PETS ON THE WEB

Artist Stephen Huneck has the gift of understanding animals, especially dogs, and presenting them in colorful, whimsical ways that will make any pet lover smile -- and many to reach for their wallets. After an illness almost killed him, the artist decided to build a chapel on his Vermont property open to people of all creeds and dogs of all breeds, celebrating the special bond between people and their canine companions.

For those who can't make it to visit the chapel in person, Huneck's Dog Chapel Web site (www.dogchapel.com) provides a look into this lovely little building, with its dog-themed stained class and furnishings. The site also offers a free screen saver, and a bulletin board for visitors to post pictures of their own pets.

THE SCOOP

A few years ago it was Febreze; now it's Swiffer. In the last couple of weeks I've received hundreds of e-mail "warnings" forwarded by well-meaning readers who in turn had it forwarded to them. The e-mail tells of a dog and two cats who died after walking across a damp floor that had been cleaned with the product and claims that Swiffer is "one molecule" off the chemical formulation of antifreeze, the latter a deadly risk to pets.

Like the Febreze e-mail scare, the dire warnings about Swiffer are off-base. The Snopes Web site (www.snopes.com) debunks this latest urban myth, and speculates that the rumors might be spread by those with a grudge against manufacturer Procter & Gamble.

The bottom line on Febreze and Swiffer? As with all household cleaning products, read the label carefully and follow directions to the letter. And don't forward e-mail warnings you don't know to be true.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How can you in all honesty say that "one does tend to meet more small canine miscreants than large ones"? My last dog weighed in at 10 pounds, and during his 17 years he was attacked by a standard poodle, two pit bulls, two that were of unknown origin and a Heinz 57. And in each case, my dog was on a leash; the others weren't.

The statement "an ill-mannered little dog's antics are not only tolerated but also too often encouraged" is a blatant generalization and reeks of unprofessionalism.

Vent your retribution someplace else. I don't believe your column is the place for you to blame the dog world for a bad experience you had in a pet store. I have my doubts that your dogs are perfect. -- K.R., via e-mail

Q: Would you let me share my story of a little dog with bad manners? We had to stop going to one local park because of a woman who would not leash her little bully. When he approached my 126-pound male growling and showing teeth, I told my dog to sit-stay. The small dog proceeded to jump on my dog's back. The little dog would not stop biting even when I pulled my dog away! Thank goodness the small dog was not injured, except for his pride. 

The woman who owned the dog said "nothing like this has ever happened before," even though her dog had approached us in this manner in the past. I informed her that it would only take one time with the wrong dog and her dog would be seriously injured or worse.

I drove by the park a few months later and guess what? There was the little dog again running free. I am so glad that someone finally addressed the issue of little dogs with bad manners. -- B.W., via e-mail

A: Quite a few people wrote to complain I either didn't like or was picking on little dogs. Not so in either case. One of my own dogs is little (my toy spaniel, Chase), and small dogs have always been among my favorites, for their oversized personalities.

What I was addressing was the tendency of the owners of small dogs to allow them to misbehave in ways that put them at risk of being chomped by bigger dogs. Dogs will be dogs, after all, and it's up to us to protect them from harm.

The issue of little dogs in off-leash parks is a controversial one, but for their own safety I cannot recommend that small dogs be turned loose with big ones in an off-leash environment. It's just too dangerous! Some large dogs see small ones more as prey than as other dogs, and it's just too easy for a small dog to be hurt or killed before the owners have time to react.

Recognizing this problem, some dog parks have put in separate areas for small dogs to play safely with others of their own size. I think these are an excellent way to give small dogs the exercise and socialization they need without putting them at risk.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

To keep your cat healthy, you must be able to recognize what is normal for your pet so you can tell when something isn't right. Changes in appetite, drinking habits, litter-box routines, grooming, and even a change in the sound of your cat's voice can all mean trouble -- and should mean a trip to the veterinarian.

Physical changes are important, too. A monthly hands-on examination will help you become aware of changes that could signify something serious.

Before starting a hands-on exam, though, stand back and study your pet for a few minutes. Consider her posture, activity level, gait, coat and overall appearance to gauge an impression of current health. Trouble signs include exposed skin, thin or dry coat, ribs showing, sluggishness, limping, or just lack of "spring" in her step.

Pick up your cat and head for the bathroom scale. Note your weight with your cat, then yours alone. The difference is your cat's weight, and it should be between 8 and 10 pounds. Your cat is normal if a comfortable pad of fat lies over her ribs but you can still feel the ribs if you press your hands in gently. A difference of a pound up or down is fine over the course of a few months; anything more or rapid weight loss is reason for concern.

Now for the hands-on part. Here's what to look for:

-- Nose. Your cat's nose should be moist and clean, not dry, scabbed or cracked. There should be no discharge or bleeding.

-- Eyes. Probably the most beautiful part of any cat, eyes should bright, moist and clear, centered between the eyelids, with pupils of equal size. Eyes that are dull or sunken, that appear dry or have thick discharge are not right. Take your cat into a darkened room, then quickly turn on a light. The pupils should contract quickly, with no difference between them.

-- Ears. The skin should be clean, dry, smooth and without wounds. The ear canal should be clean and almost odor-free. Crust, moisture, discharge or strong odor in the ear canal is bad news, as is pain at the touch or an unusual way of holding her head or ears.

-- The mouth. Your cat's teeth should be clean and white, with gums that are uniformly pink. Press on your pet's gum with your finger or thumb and release quickly. The color will be white but should return to the same color as the surrounding tissue within one or two seconds. This is a sign your cat's circulatory system is working well. Problem signs here include loose or missing teeth, tartar, or gums that are red, pale, inflamed or sore.

-- Breathing. It should be hard to hear your cat breathe, and her chest wall should move easily in and out as she does. Most of the act of breathing should be performed by the chest wall; the stomach should barely move. "Crackles" or wheezes indicate a problem, as does labored or rapid breathing.

-- The abdomen. Start just behind the ribs and gently press your hands into the abdomen. Proceed toward the rear of your pet, passing your hands gently over the abdomen. Some bumps should be there -- They're the internal organs, such as the kidneys. You should find no other lumps, bumps or masses, though, and your pet should feel no discomfort as you press gently into her.

-- Hydration. Check to ensure your cat has enough fluids by pulling the skin just behind her shoulder blades into a tent and then releasing quickly. Your pet's skin should snap immediately back into position. Another good sign of hydration is that the gums just above the teeth are moist when touched.

Chances are your cat will check out fine, in which case your exam should turn into a long, loving petting session. If anything came up that worries you, see your veterinarian to ensure your cat's good health.

THE SCOOP

Warmer weather always means an increase in the number of "skunkings." While it's important to keep your pets away from wild animals because of the threat of rabies, the truth is that some skunks are pretty quick on the draw when it comes to spraying. Your pet doesn't even need to get that close to get zapped.

Keep this recipe and ingredients at hand, just in case: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from most drugstores), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water. Do not mix in advance or try to store in a closed container.

PETS ON THE WEB

Summer is not a safe time to travel with pets, particularly when it comes to air travel. Time spent waiting to be unloaded or loaded in the heat can be lethal, which is why many airlines place an embargo on air travel for most pets in the warmer months. The Humane Society of the United States keeps a cheat sheet of airline pet policies on its Web site, at www.hsus.org/ace/11860. If you plan to fly with your pet, talk to your airline well in advance to make sure you're in compliance with their policies and clear on the fees.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have the worst Jekyll-and-Hyde cat in the world when it comes to going to the veterinarian. Shannara is a holy terror, and she seems to want to take a piece out of anyone from the minute the carrier comes out of the closet. Our veterinarian says she's used to cats like ours, but I just wonder if there's any way to make things easier on our vet, on us and our cat. When not faced with a trip to the veterinarian, she's the sweetest little thing! -- V.K., via e-mail

A: Work with your veterinarian to come up with a strategy to make the visit easier for you all, and realize that the staff will have to handle your pet firmly to prevent injuries to your cat and the people around her. Be sure you're using a hard-sided carrier for these trips -- never try to hold an angry cat in your arms, or transport her in something that lends very little protection, like a pillowcase.

You might also consider using a mobile veterinarian. Although your cat won't be any more pleased to see a veterinarian who makes house calls, at least she'll be spared the trauma of travel.

The temptation when you have a cat who hates the veterinarian is to avoid routine preventive veterinary care entirely. It's not uncommon for cats like these to never see a veterinarian after that first visit has gone so horribly wrong. If you go this route -- and I'm not recommending it, just acknowledging it as a choice many cat lovers make -- the responsibility for spotting illness falls squarely on your shoulders. Be aware of changes in your cat's body, attitude or behavior, all of which can indicate illness and necessitate a trip to the veterinarian's, whether your cat likes it or not.

Q: Do you know whether a dog's mouth is cleaner than a human's? Doesn't seem right to me, but I have a bet on this. -- J.F., via e-mail

A. I brush my teeth two or three times a day and visit the dentist regularly for a thorough cleaning. With my dogs, I'm sadly hit-or-miss on brushing: I try to manage it once or twice a week. They do get dental cleanings from their veterinarian on a regular basis, but still ... their dental care isn't as good as mine. And I bet in this matter I'm a pretty typical pet lover.

But there's another reason I don't trust the cleanliness of the canine mouth: A dog's opinion of what's desirable or even edible is very different from our own. Most dogs cannot pass up any opportunity to munch on the solid contents of cat boxes, or eat any other kind of poop, rotting food or other disgusting item they find on walks.

While I don't get too worked up about doggy kisses, I sure don't think they come from the cleanest of mouths. I'm not sure what side of the bet you're on, but I wouldn't put my money on any dog's mouth being cleaner than a human's.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My dogs love to go into stores where they're welcome, and there are certainly more of these than there used to be. From the largest pet retailer to the smallest pet bakery or boutique, plenty of welcome mats are out these days for a person with a well-mannered dog.

My biggest dog -- a 10-year-old retriever who greets everyone as a long lost friend -– loves outings the most, and he's the one I take shopping more often than the other three. But now and then I find that once I get him in a dog-friendly environment, he finds himself growled at or jumped on by an unfriendly dog no bigger than his broad retriever head.

While not all small dogs are so ill-mannered, one does tend to meet more small canine miscreants than large ones. It's not that small dogs are prone to bad behavior, mind you, but rather that the owners of small dogs tend to overlook behavior problems that would be absolutely intolerable in a 50-, 80- or 100-pound dog. A big dog who can't walk nicely on a leash and snarls insults at other dogs isn't anything you'd want to share with the world: You'd train him, or you'd leave him at home.

That's not the case with little dogs, however. An ill-mannered little dog's antics are not only tolerated, but also too often encouraged. "Oh, isn't he just so tough?" baby-talked the owner of a little Yorkie who attacked my retriever in a pet store recently. "You're mommy's little attack dog, oh yes, you are!" she cooed as she scooped up her snarling dog and tried to cuddle him.

And I thought: The next time that "attack dog" hurls himself at an 80-pound dog, he might not be so lucky. While my retriever looked at the tiny Yorkie with a bemused look that seemed to say, "What's your problem, little dude?" the next dog might not have as good a sense of humor as Benjamin's. Whose fault would it be if the little dog were hurt? The Yorkie's owner would probably say the big dog, and to a certainly extent she'd be right. If you can't trust your dog not to bite, you shouldn't have him in situations where he might.

But a large part of the blame would fall squarely on the shoulders of the woman who allowed her Yorkie's bad behavior to put him at risk.

Are you tolerant of your spoiled little brat of a dog? Wouldn't you rather have a dog that everyone else could be enjoy being around too?

While it might seem easier to ignore bad manners in a little dog, the fact is that it's just not that hard to turn a little tyrant around. Little dogs are generally bright and easy to train, once their owners get the idea that training is not only desirable, but also very possible.

Reward-based training works well with all dogs, and this is especially true of small ones, who tend to be too fragile and sensitive for punishment-based training. Darlene Arden's book "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" ($18, Howell Book House) is probably the best out there for dealing with the challenges presented by the smallest canines, from house-training issues (small dogs can be notoriously difficult to house-train) to overcoming bad manners.

Whatever you do, don't encourage behavior in your small dog that wouldn't be acceptable in a large one. Your dog's bratty behavior isn't appreciated by others, and it might one day cost him his life.

THE SCOOP

In the eastern parts of the United States and Canada, the big spring hatch of cicadas is a regular event that can be a nuisance. This year, with a larger-than-normal hatch predicted, the Humane Society of the United States is warning that for pets who develop a taste for the insects, the cicadas might mean veterinary bills for some pet lovers. While a couple of munched cicadas are no reason for concern -- and not a bad source of protein for pets -- the advocacy group warns that pets should be kept from eating great gobs of the little beasties. The bug's exoskeleton isn't digestible, it warns, and too many cicada snacks can cause a blockage that may need to be treated by a veterinarian.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Unchain Your Dog Web site (www.unchainyourdog.org) is an excellent effort aimed at educating people about the cruelty -- and the danger -- of keeping dogs on chains. Life on a chain is a miserable option for an animal that is genetically programmed to be part of a family, the site says, and the frustration many dogs feel when restrained in such a way can lead to aggression. The Centers for Disease Control and the American Veterinary Medical Association are among the organizations that recognize the link between chaining and dog bites the site notes, with links to research papers supporting the claim. Unchain Your Dog offers alternatives, including advice for helping to overcome behavior problems that may have lead to the dog's banishment from the home in the first place.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I can't believe you advocate the declawing of cats. It is outlawed in many countries and should be outlawed in this one. It wouldn't mean a trip to the shelter if people educated themselves on a cat before they adopted one (or bought one). One can have the amputation done, but the cat could still vomit on the new couch. What then? Have the cat's mouth stitched shut? -- L.C., via e-mail

A: I don't advocate declawing, not at all, but rather acknowledge the existence of the procedure and offer cat lovers alternatives. I suggest discouraging furniture clawing by applying aversives such as double-sided tape to the furniture, coupled with providing alternative "clawing zones" such as a well-placed, well-made cat tree.

Personally, I would never have a cat of mine declawed. But no amount of education is going to stop feline adoptions by people who will not tolerate destruction of their furniture. Many of these people love their cats and provide them with excellent homes. If declawing was not available they would give up their cats, which, given the low adoption rate for adult cats, means that it's either declawing or euthanasia for many animals. When faced with such a choice for a cat, declawing doesn't look quite so bad. Better to be a clawless cat with a good home than dead.

I never, ever recommend declawing. And I advise people who are fussy about their furniture and insist on declawing to adopt an adult cat who was declawed by a previous owner. I guess instead of saying that I "advocate" declawing, you could say I accept the reality of it grudgingly, and I offer alternatives to help cat-owners avoid it if at all possible.

Q: My 1-year-old golden retriever has had the run of the yard since we got him. I'd like to plant a garden this spring, but I know he'll run through it and dig there. How can I keep my dog out of my garden? -- V.B., via e-mail

A: Good fences make good doggies. Practically speaking, there's no way to keep your dog out of your garden without building a fence. Remember, once your garden gets going, you'll have something in it every dog adores -- food! I've had dogs so crazy for tomatoes that they would try to tease fallen ones from under the garden fence with their paws.

A 4-foot fence should be sufficient to keep most dogs out of the garden, although you may need to aim higher for a more dedicated veggie-hound.

Q: Is it safe to give those breath strips for humans to our dog? His breath is vile! -- R.T., via e-mail

A: If your dog has bad breath, chances are pretty good that he needs to see his veterinarian for a thorough dental cleaning and scaling, and possibly the removal of infected or broken teeth and the treatment of diseased gums. This is not a cosmetic problem: Bad teeth and gums can be painful for pets, and the shower of bacteria that occurs when a pet swallows can damage internal organs over time and shorten a pet's life.

Once your dog's teeth and gums have been treated by your veterinarian, you can keep things in good shape by frequent brushing of your pet's teeth.

If everything else has been taken care of, an occasional breath strip wouldn't hurt your pet. I doubt your dog will dig the mint flavor -- it's just not popular with pets. I have noticed the introduction of breath strips designed to better suit the doggy palate, but there's really no need for them if your pet's mouth is healthy.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600