If you can get a good night's sleep, you'll be better able to cope with almost anything, even allergies. That's why one of the best pieces of advice to those who are allergic to their pets is this: Declare your bedroom a "no-pets zone," at least during the height of spring allergy season.

That can be tough advice to follow for those of us who love to share our bedrooms, and even our beds, with our dogs and cats. For many allergy sufferers, though, establishing a pet-free sleeping area is a necessary compromise that will allow us to share our lives with pets despite our allergies.

Reduce allergy triggers further by keeping your sleeping area sparsely decorated with furnishing that do not attract dust, and be sure everything is cleaned frequently. Bedding should be washed often to combat dust mites, and pillows should be made of non-allergenic material, no feathers. Consider running a HEPA air cleaner in the room at all times.

The idea (both in the bedroom and outside of it) is to keep your total "allergy load" -- pets and everything else that triggers your allergies -- to a level that you can live with, or that can be controlled by medication. It's worth the effort to make an effort. Out-of-control allergies can make lives miserable, and, in the case of asthma, can be life-threatening as well.

As a lifelong allergy sufferer and chronic asthmatic, I find that keeping my bedroom clean at all times and pet-free at the height of pollen season is a strategy that keeps me from feeling miserable. When the pollen counts are not so overwhelming, my pets sleep on the bed.

I'm in good company as an allergy sufferer and pet lover. The Humane Society of the United States says having allergies doesn't stop many people from having pets: One-third of all those who are allergic to cats have at least one such pet anyway. What's more, the group says that in a study of 341 allergy sufferers, only one in five of those who were advised by a doctor to find another home for their pet actually did so.

Such dedication deserves to be rewarded, so here are some more tips for those who have both pets and allergies:

-- Limit exposure to other allergens. Avoid cleaning solutions, cigarette smoke and strong perfumes, and consider using a mask when doing yard work and housework, especially when pollen counts are high or your home is especially dusty.

-- Let someone else do the dusting and vacuuming, if at all possible, and if not, invest in a vacuum that filters the air it releases. The best vacuum for pet hair that I have ever owned is my Dyson upright, from a company that has a model actually designed for pet hair (it's called the "Animal"). My Dyson does an amazing job of picking up pet hair (and everything else), and not venting the allergens when it's operating. When I was in England recently at the Crufts dog show, Dyson was promoting a new "Animal" canister model that should be available in North America later this year.

-- Keep pets well-groomed. The dirt and pollen that pets pick up in their coats can be almost as bad as the hair and dander they generate themselves. It's essential for pets to be bathed frequently, and to be kept combed and brushed. Ideally, a non-allergic member of the household should assume this responsibility. Even cats should be bathed, by the way: A weekly rinse of your cat in plain water has been shown to help people who are allergic to them.

-- Work with your doctor. Rather than argue over suggestions that I dump my pets, I avoided allergists for years. Big mistake. After I almost died from an asthma attack -- set up by a chest cold and triggered by a friend's cat -- I got serious about getting help. These days, I work with health-care professionals who are willing to work with me, prescribing medications that allow my allergies and my pets to coexist.

-- Choose pets carefully. Do everything you can to make things work with the pets you have now, but when it comes time to adopt others, be aware that some pets may be better than others when it comes to allergies. In general, dogs are less of a problem than cats when it comes to allergies, and breeds like poodles can be easier for allergy sufferers to live with than other dogs. There is no such thing as a non-allergenic dog or cat, however, no matter what you've heard or read.

Like most allergy-sufferers, I find even the most beautiful spring to be a season of misery at times. But since I started following the good advice that's out there, I've been able to muddle through even the worst days without ever contemplating giving up any of the pets I hold so dear.

Not that I ever would, of course.

PETS ON THE WEB

I love libraries, offices and stores with resident cats, and I'm always delighted when I run across these places. While the keeping of such a cat isn't always smooth sailing -- some customers complain because they don't like cats or are allergic to them -- it seems to me that on balance, a cat adds a pleasant atmosphere to any establishment.

For those stores I can't visit personally, there is always Shopcat.com, a collection of the pictures and stories of more than 400 cats who ply their charms in retail environments. The site's pictures are generally of very good quality, capturing the sweet personality of those cats who must accept the admiration of strangers every working day. Don't miss the "page of silliness," with cat pictures sure to make you laugh.

THE SCOOP

For pets who drink from water bottles (which includes most small pets such as birds, rabbits and hamsters), touch the ball at the tip of the bottle's neck with your finger a couple of times a day to be sure there's no clog. This is especially important with clever pets such as parrots, who sometimes think it's a fun game to push food into the water

source and block the flow.

Another water tip: Be sure any outdoor water source for your pet is always in the shade and in a place that's always accessible. This is especially important as the weather gets warmer.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: You recently wrote about selecting pet-friendly plants for the vegetable garden. Any greenery suggestions for indoor kitties? -- G.C., via e-mail

A: It's easy to keep fresh greens always on hand for indoor cats. Grasses are a feline favorite. Since cats seem to like the tender shoots best, sow a fresh crop of grasses every couple of weeks in a wide, shallow planter.

Alfalfa, rye and wheat seeds are ideal. You can find seeds from catalogs or nurseries, but be sure to choose those that have not been pretreated with chemicals. If you search pet-supply stores, catalogs and Web sites, you can also find prepackaged kitty greens, complete with seeds, soil and planter. All you need to do is add water.

Parsley and thyme are also popular and can be grown indoors for your cat's nibbling pleasure. Any decent nursery will have young plants ready to be transplanted into a pot, and the mature plants make a handsome addition, indoors or out. (I recently saw the dark-green of parsley used as a contrasting backdrop for a variety of brightly colored flowers at the Atlanta Botanical Garden.)

You should also try to keep catnip and valerian plants on hand. Keep the pots where your cat can't get to them or your pet may pull the seedlings out by the root. After the plant is large enough to stand it, trim off pieces to give to your pet, stuff sprigs into toys or rub on cat trees.

Q: Please settle a disagreement for me. Can dog poop be composted? –- S.D., via e-mail

A. The fecal waste of carnivores such as dog and cats should never be put into your compost pile because it could carry disease. Put the waste of these pets into bags, wrap tightly and put into your regular outside trash container for pickup. I always use old pet-food bags for waste disposal they're sturdy enough to stand up to reuse before being discarded.

If you have a pet who eats nothing but plant matter -- rabbits, guinea pigs, rats, hamsters and mice fall into this category -- then sure, compost their waste. It'll be great for your garden.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

There's no such thing as a dog who's "partially house-trained." Your dog either gets the concept of not using the house for a bathroom, or he doesn't. Admitting you've got a dog who doesn't get it is the first step to setting up a training program that will finally deal with the problem.

Excuses and half-measures will not house-train your dog. If you have a growing puppy or an adult dog who isn't house-trained after a reasonable amount of time and effort, it's important to have a veterinarian ensure the animal has no medical issues. If the health check comes up clean, it's time to review how you're handing your dog -- with an eye to avoiding traps that sabotage your efforts to help your pet learn to "hold it" until he's outside.

Chief among these traps is using a negative approach to housetraining. Successful housetraining requires setting up a potty schedule, limiting your dog's roaming options to areas you can supervise, showing your pet the area you want him to use and praising him for going there. Generations may have followed the old "shove his nose in it and swat" method, but that doesn't work as well as a positive approach. You simply must go out with your dog and praise him for getting it right. You're not being fair otherwise.

Even with a positive approach, people make mistakes. Here are a few things to remember:

-- Understand your dog's physical limitations. Puppies have little storage capability and need to be taken out frequently. Do not expect growing dogs to be able to hold it as long as a healthy adult dog can. If you must leave your puppy for the day, limit his wandering to a small area and put down newspapers to make cleanup easier. Don't punish him for any messes he makes while you're gone -- they're not his fault. Small dogs, too, have capacity issues, and cannot be expected to "hold it" all day.

-- If you're dealing with a puppy, you need to remember how puppy works. Young dogs need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, and after playing. Make sure to take your puppy out then. Do not offer food and water on demand to any dog who isn't house-trained. Instead, offer food and water at regular intervals to help predict when your pet will need a trip outside.

-- Clean up mistakes thoroughly. What you can't see, a dog can still smell, and smells invite repeat business. Keep commercial products on hand that use enzyme action to break down the smell. White vinegar also does a great job of neutralizing the odor of urine. Don't use an ammonia-based product though. To a pet, ammonia's smell resembles one of the components in urine.

-- Limit your dog's wanderings. You wouldn't let a toddler explore your entire house without supervision; don't let your dog do so either. Close doors and use baby gates to keep your dog where your can keep an eye on him. That way, if you see him start to make a mistake, you can whisk him outside and praise him for finishing the job where you want him to.

-- Be patient and consistent. While some dogs seem to housetrain themselves, others are slower to learn. Don't be reluctant to seek out the help of a veterinary behaviorist, who can spot inconsistencies you may not even see in your handling of your dog, and help you develop a program for success.

Yes, these veterinary specialist cost money, but they're cheaper than a steady supply of carpet cleaner -- or a new carpet!

PETS ON THE WEB

As the weather warms up, people with turtles and tortoises become reacquainted with pets who are now ending their winter hibernation. You don't have a turtle or tortoise? Then maybe you should wake up to their pet potential with the help of some very thorough Web sites.

Felice Rood has been a fan of turtles and tortoises for years, sharing her expertise as head of the Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise Club. I've long been a fan of her quirky newsletter, which is among the many useful and delightful things that can be found on her Felice's World of Turtles Web site (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/felicerood/). Other good sites include those of the California Turtle & Tortoise Club (www.tortoise.org) and the New York Turtle and Tortoise Society (http://nytts.org/).

THE SCOOP

The ability to lose a tail can be a lifesaver for iguanas. If caught by a predator, an iguana can escape by dropping the tail, leaving it still wriggling in the mouth of an animal who thought lunch was in the bag. The trick isn't used just with predators: More than a few people who are new to having an iguana as a pet have ended up screaming the first time they find themselves holding a thrashing tail instead of an iguana.

Smaller iguanas are more likely than larger ones to regrow their tails, usually in a few weeks. If the tail is in place but injured, or is only partially broken off, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in reptiles is in order to determine the best course of treatment.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One or more of our three cats has a problem using the litter box, but we can't figure out which of them is guilty. The problem is with both liquid and solid waste, and there's no pattern that we can tell. The litter box is being used by at least one of the cats.

We don't want to punish any cat unfairly, and we haven't caught any of them in the act. Do you have any suggestions? -- P.K., via e-mail

A: Please put away the idea of punishing any of your cats. Punishment doesn't solve cat problems, and may make the situation worse by stressing out your pets.

It's certainly not unusual for a cat to stop using the litter box, for any number of reasons. Avoiding the litter box is not always strictly a behavior problem: Sometimes a cat is sick. But which cat? In a multicat household, it can be very difficult to figure out the culprit.

You can try to pinpoint the cat with problems by mixing blue or green food coloring with canned food and offering it to one cat at a time.

You'll be able to tell which feces came from the "marked" cat because the food coloring will pass through and show up in the mess.

Urine is a little harder to figure out, but your veterinarian should be able to help, or refer you to a veterinary behaviorist who can. You'll be prescribed fluorescent dye to give to your pet and a black light for revealing the dye in urine that shows up where it shouldn't.

Once you've determined which cat is the source of the problem, you'll need to work with your veterinarian to be sure the problem isn't health-related. Litter-box problems can be challenging to resolve, especially in a household with more than one cat. But you won't have any chance of getting past those problems until you're certain you're working with a healthy cat.

If health isn't the issue, you can experiment with adding additional boxes in different locations, in case the problem is a territorial dispute among the cats. (As a general rule there should be one litter box per cat, plus one more.) If that doesn't help, work with a behaviorist who can tailor a program to help retrain the problem cat.

Q: How often does my dog need a rabies shot? -- G.J., via the Internet

A: Although vaccine protocols in general are shifting to put more time between boosters, rabies is the one vaccine that's covered not by the guidelines of good medicine but rather by the rule of law. Many places require rabies vaccination every three years, while others insist on an annual shot. Your veterinarian will know the law in your area, or you can contact your local animal-control department.

Rabies vaccines differ from all others in that they're not just for your pet's benefit: Our pets are protected from rabies as a way to protect humans from the disease. People do die from rabies, which is why the law is so unforgiving on the topic of vaccinations for pets.

Incidentally, while the focus of rabies prevention has traditionally been on dogs, cases of feline rabies are not uncommon. Even if a rabies vaccine is not required by law in your area, public-health officials strongly urge vaccinating cats as well, especially for cats who are allowed to roam. In an increasing number of places, rabies vaccinations for cats are mandated by law.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

This is the time of year when kittens begin to show up in shelters, and some cat lovers start to imagine their single cat would like a companion. With visions of frisky felines dancing in their heads, they bring home a new fuzzy baby.

The cat's response: "For me? No thanks!" And that's the polite version, just before the resident cat disappears into the most remote corner of the house in protest. Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls along the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Which is why, for your cat's sake and your own, you need to remember one word when introducing any change to your cat.

That word? "Slowly."

Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important. Despite your pet's initial misgivings, adding a companion can be a wonderful idea, especially for an indoor cat. Today, more cats spend their lives inside, protected from deadly hazards such as cars, coyotes and contagious diseases. There are trade-offs though: An outdoor cat's life may be shorter, but it is filled with smells and sounds and other animals. We must make up some of the difference by enriching the lives of our indoor cats.

Cat trees, screened porches, edible indoor greenery and a wide variety of toys are important, but so is a playmate. For pets who spend hours alone while their owners are at work, another cat can help fill a lot of lonely time.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want a couple, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time. Kittens don't have the sense of territory grown cats do, and will settle down together into a new home nicely.

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine-marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong; it all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is finally alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly -- there's that word again -- feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

THE SCOOP

Springtime is when we all think of gardening. If you're putting in some new plants, don't forget to include a few your pets will enjoy. Carrots are favored by many dogs, and make a great substitute for commercial treats for overweight pups. Catnip is a natural for cats, but also consider valerian, another herb that makes kitties dance with joy. Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats and other rodents will enjoy any leafy vegetable you plant, especially any kind of greens. As for parrots, almost any fresh food that's good for you is good for your bird, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

It had to happen, after the buzz created by networking Web sites such as Friendster: A networking site for dogs called Dogster (www.dogster.com). Nearly 14,000 dogs from all over the world have their profiles online at the site, with their pictures, nicknames, favorite activities, friends and more. Created by self-confessed "dog freaks and computer geeks," the site is free to use after registration. You can search for your favorite breed of dog, or look for dogs in your area. Dogster is an addictive Web site, and great fun to play with.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cocker spaniel has the typical long, silky ears of the breed. We like the look, so we don't trim them much (Charley goes to the groomer every month), but we have a problem with keeping those lovely ears clean. When he eats, he drags his ears in his dish, and so they sop up the liquid in his meals. Do you have suggestions for dealing with this? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: The easiest way to keep the fur on long ears clean is to buy or make a snood, which is a simple fabric tube with elastic on both ends. It's designed to slip over the dog's head and keep the ears up and out of the way during eating. (Dog-show people also use them to keep freshly groomed dogs neat until they go in the show ring.) Snoods can usually be found at dog shows, or from merchants who specialize in supplies for showing, such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800-524-0820).

They do tend to come in goofy patterns and some even have sequins, but they'll only be on for a few minutes a day so you and your dog won't be hideously embarrassed for long.

Q: Last year we put our dog in a kennel while we were on vacation, and when we picked her up she was sick with kennel cough. Other than using a different kennel, can you suggest ways to prevent this from happening again? Can humans catch kennel cough? -- W.O., via e-mail

A: Boarding kennels take some heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that's as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. In fact, some kennel operators even find the name of the disease a little unfair, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, or even bordetella, after its most common causative agent.

Kennel operators are right about the bum rap, because dogs can pick up "kennel cough" any place they might come into contact with a dog who has it -- and that means anywhere. Parks, shelters, boarding kennels, dog shows, grooming shops, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society: These are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. In most dogs the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks, while other pets may need antibiotics to help them get over it. Most all infected dogs can be made more comfortable with cough suppressants. It's always worthwhile to talk to your veterinarian about how to help speed your dog's recovery.

While it's not completely effective against the disease, vaccines are available. Because it takes some time for the immunity to develop, talk to your veterinarian about vaccination at least a month in advance of boarding your dog (or otherwise exposing her to other dogs). Pets who are often in the company of other dogs, such as at dog parks, should have their vaccines kept constantly current. Also, to better protect your dog, look for a kennel that demands proof of vaccinations from all its clients.

Kennel cough cannot be transmitted to humans.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600