There's no such thing as a dog who's "partially house-trained." Your dog either gets the concept of not using the house for a bathroom, or he doesn't. Admitting you've got a dog who doesn't get it is the first step to setting up a training program that will finally deal with the problem.

Excuses and half-measures will not house-train your dog. If you have a growing puppy or an adult dog who isn't house-trained after a reasonable amount of time and effort, it's important to have a veterinarian ensure the animal has no medical issues. If the health check comes up clean, it's time to review how you're handing your dog -- with an eye to avoiding traps that sabotage your efforts to help your pet learn to "hold it" until he's outside.

Chief among these traps is using a negative approach to housetraining. Successful housetraining requires setting up a potty schedule, limiting your dog's roaming options to areas you can supervise, showing your pet the area you want him to use and praising him for going there. Generations may have followed the old "shove his nose in it and swat" method, but that doesn't work as well as a positive approach. You simply must go out with your dog and praise him for getting it right. You're not being fair otherwise.

Even with a positive approach, people make mistakes. Here are a few things to remember:

-- Understand your dog's physical limitations. Puppies have little storage capability and need to be taken out frequently. Do not expect growing dogs to be able to hold it as long as a healthy adult dog can. If you must leave your puppy for the day, limit his wandering to a small area and put down newspapers to make cleanup easier. Don't punish him for any messes he makes while you're gone -- they're not his fault. Small dogs, too, have capacity issues, and cannot be expected to "hold it" all day.

-- If you're dealing with a puppy, you need to remember how puppy works. Young dogs need to relieve themselves after they wake up, after they eat or drink, and after playing. Make sure to take your puppy out then. Do not offer food and water on demand to any dog who isn't house-trained. Instead, offer food and water at regular intervals to help predict when your pet will need a trip outside.

-- Clean up mistakes thoroughly. What you can't see, a dog can still smell, and smells invite repeat business. Keep commercial products on hand that use enzyme action to break down the smell. White vinegar also does a great job of neutralizing the odor of urine. Don't use an ammonia-based product though. To a pet, ammonia's smell resembles one of the components in urine.

-- Limit your dog's wanderings. You wouldn't let a toddler explore your entire house without supervision; don't let your dog do so either. Close doors and use baby gates to keep your dog where your can keep an eye on him. That way, if you see him start to make a mistake, you can whisk him outside and praise him for finishing the job where you want him to.

-- Be patient and consistent. While some dogs seem to housetrain themselves, others are slower to learn. Don't be reluctant to seek out the help of a veterinary behaviorist, who can spot inconsistencies you may not even see in your handling of your dog, and help you develop a program for success.

Yes, these veterinary specialist cost money, but they're cheaper than a steady supply of carpet cleaner -- or a new carpet!

PETS ON THE WEB

As the weather warms up, people with turtles and tortoises become reacquainted with pets who are now ending their winter hibernation. You don't have a turtle or tortoise? Then maybe you should wake up to their pet potential with the help of some very thorough Web sites.

Felice Rood has been a fan of turtles and tortoises for years, sharing her expertise as head of the Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise Club. I've long been a fan of her quirky newsletter, which is among the many useful and delightful things that can be found on her Felice's World of Turtles Web site (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/felicerood/). Other good sites include those of the California Turtle & Tortoise Club (www.tortoise.org) and the New York Turtle and Tortoise Society (http://nytts.org/).

THE SCOOP

The ability to lose a tail can be a lifesaver for iguanas. If caught by a predator, an iguana can escape by dropping the tail, leaving it still wriggling in the mouth of an animal who thought lunch was in the bag. The trick isn't used just with predators: More than a few people who are new to having an iguana as a pet have ended up screaming the first time they find themselves holding a thrashing tail instead of an iguana.

Smaller iguanas are more likely than larger ones to regrow their tails, usually in a few weeks. If the tail is in place but injured, or is only partially broken off, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in reptiles is in order to determine the best course of treatment.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: One or more of our three cats has a problem using the litter box, but we can't figure out which of them is guilty. The problem is with both liquid and solid waste, and there's no pattern that we can tell. The litter box is being used by at least one of the cats.

We don't want to punish any cat unfairly, and we haven't caught any of them in the act. Do you have any suggestions? -- P.K., via e-mail

A: Please put away the idea of punishing any of your cats. Punishment doesn't solve cat problems, and may make the situation worse by stressing out your pets.

It's certainly not unusual for a cat to stop using the litter box, for any number of reasons. Avoiding the litter box is not always strictly a behavior problem: Sometimes a cat is sick. But which cat? In a multicat household, it can be very difficult to figure out the culprit.

You can try to pinpoint the cat with problems by mixing blue or green food coloring with canned food and offering it to one cat at a time.

You'll be able to tell which feces came from the "marked" cat because the food coloring will pass through and show up in the mess.

Urine is a little harder to figure out, but your veterinarian should be able to help, or refer you to a veterinary behaviorist who can. You'll be prescribed fluorescent dye to give to your pet and a black light for revealing the dye in urine that shows up where it shouldn't.

Once you've determined which cat is the source of the problem, you'll need to work with your veterinarian to be sure the problem isn't health-related. Litter-box problems can be challenging to resolve, especially in a household with more than one cat. But you won't have any chance of getting past those problems until you're certain you're working with a healthy cat.

If health isn't the issue, you can experiment with adding additional boxes in different locations, in case the problem is a territorial dispute among the cats. (As a general rule there should be one litter box per cat, plus one more.) If that doesn't help, work with a behaviorist who can tailor a program to help retrain the problem cat.

Q: How often does my dog need a rabies shot? -- G.J., via the Internet

A: Although vaccine protocols in general are shifting to put more time between boosters, rabies is the one vaccine that's covered not by the guidelines of good medicine but rather by the rule of law. Many places require rabies vaccination every three years, while others insist on an annual shot. Your veterinarian will know the law in your area, or you can contact your local animal-control department.

Rabies vaccines differ from all others in that they're not just for your pet's benefit: Our pets are protected from rabies as a way to protect humans from the disease. People do die from rabies, which is why the law is so unforgiving on the topic of vaccinations for pets.

Incidentally, while the focus of rabies prevention has traditionally been on dogs, cases of feline rabies are not uncommon. Even if a rabies vaccine is not required by law in your area, public-health officials strongly urge vaccinating cats as well, especially for cats who are allowed to roam. In an increasing number of places, rabies vaccinations for cats are mandated by law.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

This is the time of year when kittens begin to show up in shelters, and some cat lovers start to imagine their single cat would like a companion. With visions of frisky felines dancing in their heads, they bring home a new fuzzy baby.

The cat's response: "For me? No thanks!" And that's the polite version, just before the resident cat disappears into the most remote corner of the house in protest. Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls along the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Which is why, for your cat's sake and your own, you need to remember one word when introducing any change to your cat.

That word? "Slowly."

Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important. Despite your pet's initial misgivings, adding a companion can be a wonderful idea, especially for an indoor cat. Today, more cats spend their lives inside, protected from deadly hazards such as cars, coyotes and contagious diseases. There are trade-offs though: An outdoor cat's life may be shorter, but it is filled with smells and sounds and other animals. We must make up some of the difference by enriching the lives of our indoor cats.

Cat trees, screened porches, edible indoor greenery and a wide variety of toys are important, but so is a playmate. For pets who spend hours alone while their owners are at work, another cat can help fill a lot of lonely time.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want a couple, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time. Kittens don't have the sense of territory grown cats do, and will settle down together into a new home nicely.

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine-marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong; it all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is finally alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly -- there's that word again -- feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

THE SCOOP

Springtime is when we all think of gardening. If you're putting in some new plants, don't forget to include a few your pets will enjoy. Carrots are favored by many dogs, and make a great substitute for commercial treats for overweight pups. Catnip is a natural for cats, but also consider valerian, another herb that makes kitties dance with joy. Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats and other rodents will enjoy any leafy vegetable you plant, especially any kind of greens. As for parrots, almost any fresh food that's good for you is good for your bird, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

It had to happen, after the buzz created by networking Web sites such as Friendster: A networking site for dogs called Dogster (www.dogster.com). Nearly 14,000 dogs from all over the world have their profiles online at the site, with their pictures, nicknames, favorite activities, friends and more. Created by self-confessed "dog freaks and computer geeks," the site is free to use after registration. You can search for your favorite breed of dog, or look for dogs in your area. Dogster is an addictive Web site, and great fun to play with.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cocker spaniel has the typical long, silky ears of the breed. We like the look, so we don't trim them much (Charley goes to the groomer every month), but we have a problem with keeping those lovely ears clean. When he eats, he drags his ears in his dish, and so they sop up the liquid in his meals. Do you have suggestions for dealing with this? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: The easiest way to keep the fur on long ears clean is to buy or make a snood, which is a simple fabric tube with elastic on both ends. It's designed to slip over the dog's head and keep the ears up and out of the way during eating. (Dog-show people also use them to keep freshly groomed dogs neat until they go in the show ring.) Snoods can usually be found at dog shows, or from merchants who specialize in supplies for showing, such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800-524-0820).

They do tend to come in goofy patterns and some even have sequins, but they'll only be on for a few minutes a day so you and your dog won't be hideously embarrassed for long.

Q: Last year we put our dog in a kennel while we were on vacation, and when we picked her up she was sick with kennel cough. Other than using a different kennel, can you suggest ways to prevent this from happening again? Can humans catch kennel cough? -- W.O., via e-mail

A: Boarding kennels take some heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that's as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. In fact, some kennel operators even find the name of the disease a little unfair, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, or even bordetella, after its most common causative agent.

Kennel operators are right about the bum rap, because dogs can pick up "kennel cough" any place they might come into contact with a dog who has it -- and that means anywhere. Parks, shelters, boarding kennels, dog shows, grooming shops, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society: These are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. In most dogs the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks, while other pets may need antibiotics to help them get over it. Most all infected dogs can be made more comfortable with cough suppressants. It's always worthwhile to talk to your veterinarian about how to help speed your dog's recovery.

While it's not completely effective against the disease, vaccines are available. Because it takes some time for the immunity to develop, talk to your veterinarian about vaccination at least a month in advance of boarding your dog (or otherwise exposing her to other dogs). Pets who are often in the company of other dogs, such as at dog parks, should have their vaccines kept constantly current. Also, to better protect your dog, look for a kennel that demands proof of vaccinations from all its clients.

Kennel cough cannot be transmitted to humans.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My parrot Eddie, a black-headed caique, is of a species known for clownish behavior and constant energy, not for talking ability. I knew this when I chose him, consciously deciding against a trait that many parrot lovers crave. I didn't really want a bird who always had something to say.

My initial reluctance to keep a chatty pet is why I was surprised at my delight when Eddie spoke his first words not long ago. He repeated my request to "step up" onto my finger before lifting his foot to comply. I guess there's just something about a pet who speaks the same language as we do that's undeniably appealing.

For many people, having a talking pet is one of the primary reasons for getting a parrot in the first place. From the moment someone brings home even a small parrot -- a budgie, cockatiel or lovebird -- the teaching and hoping begin. After all, you don't want to have to answer "no" to the question every parrot owner is asked eventually: "Does he talk?"

The truth is, not all parrots talk, not even those from the species known best for their mimicry, such as the double-yellow-headed and yellow-naped Amazons and the Timneh or Congo varieties of the African grays. While nearly every parrot species kept as a pet has a talker or two among its ranks, some types of birds just aren't known for their mimicry. Some species are better at sounds than words, and some are better at whistling. Eddie, for example, is mostly a whistler, with a repertoire that includes the theme from the Miss America pageant.

The larger parrots -- Amazons, macaws, African grays and cockatoos -- are usually good talkers, but don't count out all the small birds. The tiny budgie is known for its ability, with some birds acquiring a vocabulary of more than 300 words, all articulated in a high-pitched little voice. Some cockatiels are not bad talkers either. Lovebirds, however, are generally considered not that good at picking up words and phrases.

Realistically, it's best to consider talking a bonus rather than a requisite characteristic of your pet. Choose a young, well-socialized bird and love him for his many fine qualities, whether or not talking is among them. That way you're sure not to be disappointed. If you're absolutely set on owning a talking bird, buy one that talks already -- and make sure you hear the conversation before you plunk down payment.

Nothing's wrong with trying to teach your pet to talk, though. You can try to teach your parrot some words and phrases by repeating them clearly, or even by using tapes or computer programs that say the same language over and over. You can nurture communication further by using the words in their proper context, and by setting up an association your bird can grasp.

For example, every time your bird lowers his head to request a scratch, ask him, "Wanna scratch?" and then scratch him. When you give him foods or other toys, call them by name out loud. Play naming games with him. Say "toy" and then tell him "Good bird!" for taking the toy from you, and then repeat the exercise.

You may have an easier time if yours is a one-bird household. Two birds may be more interested in talking their own language with each other than figuring out your expressions. Some experts also suggest not attempting to teach your bird to whistle, at least not until he has picked up speech. Whistling birds seem to show a reluctance to use words.

What about the words or sounds you don't want mimicked? Don't teach them, for a start, no matter how funny it may be to hear your parrot be bawdy. If you think it's funny for your bird to swear in private, you'll have to live with that behavior when the minister's over for dinner. As for those nasties a pet picks up by accident, the best you can do is ignore them, providing neither positive nor negative reinforcement.

Although I really wasn't looking for a talking bird, I'm certainly not disappointed that I have one now. In fact, I'm looking forward to see what Eddie will say next.

THE SCOOP

For safety's sake, always be careful not to use your bare hands when removing ticks. Instead, use tweezers or a tick-pulling device (shaped like a spoon with a slot in it to catch the tick) to remove the pest. You can collect pulled ticks in a bowl with rubbing alcohol in it, then flush the disgusting mess down the toilet when you've collected them all. Watch each area where a tick was for a couple of days, and if you see inflammation or infection, talk to your veterinarian.

Spot-on medications available from your veterinarian will help keep your pet free of both fleas and ticks, but if you live in an area with lots of ticks, you may also need to add a tick collar. With any pest-control products, discuss the risks with your veterinarian, and be sure to follow directions to the letter for your pet's safety.

PETS ON THE WEB

The sugar glider has grown in popularity as a pet in recent years, but as with many exotics, new owners often have a difficult time finding information on proper care and feeding. Glider Central (www.sugarglider.net) aims to help fans of this pet with a site offering a bulletin board for getting questions answered and a page filled with hundreds of links to information on everything from finding a knowledgeable veterinarian to buying glider-themed art. Lots of glider pictures, too.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How difficult is it to hand-feed a baby parrot? We've noticed they're sometimes sold at a discount if you take the baby newly hatched and raise it yourself. We've never hand-fed a bird, and we've never even had a parrot before, although we've thought about getting one for quite a while. One breeder we talked to says hand-feeding is easy, but we're wondering if it's really feasible for us as newbies to parrot-keeping. Also, will it be a better pet if we raise it ourselves? -- J.H., via e-mail

A: Hand-feeding involves using a spoon or syringe to give formula to a baby bird at what starts out as two-hour intervals. The basics of caring for baby birds are the same as with human babies: Keep them warm, keep them clean, and feed them when they're hungry. Socialization is an essential part of the package, too, for young birds should be exposed to gentle handling and the sounds of a human household to make good pets.

Sounds easy? It's not. Taking care of a baby bird is definitely not for beginners. Any avian veterinarian can tell you horror tales of baby birds killed by improper hand-feeding, such as by offering food that's too hot and fatally burns the baby. Although experienced hand-feeders find the work routine, for beginners it's frighteningly easy to bungle the job, with tragic results.

When you factor in the risks, the trouble and all those sleepless nights, hand-feeding your own bird isn't the bargain it may first appear to be. If you're thinking it's important for bonding, rest easy on that point as well. A healthy, well-socialized and fully weaned young bird from a reputable source will have no trouble at all bonding to you and becoming a wonderful pet.

Q: We have a new pet rabbit, just one, and we're not planning to get another. Since there won't be a problem with her becoming a mommy, is it necessary to have her spayed? We heard it's risky. -- R.U., via e-mail

A: Neutering pet rabbits is recommended both to improve health and longevity and to reduce behavior problems.

Female rabbits are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine to mark their territory.

While it's true that anesthesia is generally considered to be riskier for rabbits than it is for dogs and cats, you can greatly minimize the risk by finding a veterinarian with experience in treating rabbits. The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbits.org) offers a listing of experienced rabbit veterinarians on its Web site.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600