This is the time of year when kittens begin to show up in shelters, and some cat lovers start to imagine their single cat would like a companion. With visions of frisky felines dancing in their heads, they bring home a new fuzzy baby.

The cat's response: "For me? No thanks!" And that's the polite version, just before the resident cat disappears into the most remote corner of the house in protest. Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls along the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Which is why, for your cat's sake and your own, you need to remember one word when introducing any change to your cat.

That word? "Slowly."

Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important. Despite your pet's initial misgivings, adding a companion can be a wonderful idea, especially for an indoor cat. Today, more cats spend their lives inside, protected from deadly hazards such as cars, coyotes and contagious diseases. There are trade-offs though: An outdoor cat's life may be shorter, but it is filled with smells and sounds and other animals. We must make up some of the difference by enriching the lives of our indoor cats.

Cat trees, screened porches, edible indoor greenery and a wide variety of toys are important, but so is a playmate. For pets who spend hours alone while their owners are at work, another cat can help fill a lot of lonely time.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want a couple, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time. Kittens don't have the sense of territory grown cats do, and will settle down together into a new home nicely.

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine-marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong; it all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat to your veterinarian first, to be checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is finally alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly -- there's that word again -- feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

THE SCOOP

Springtime is when we all think of gardening. If you're putting in some new plants, don't forget to include a few your pets will enjoy. Carrots are favored by many dogs, and make a great substitute for commercial treats for overweight pups. Catnip is a natural for cats, but also consider valerian, another herb that makes kitties dance with joy. Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats and other rodents will enjoy any leafy vegetable you plant, especially any kind of greens. As for parrots, almost any fresh food that's good for you is good for your bird, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

It had to happen, after the buzz created by networking Web sites such as Friendster: A networking site for dogs called Dogster (www.dogster.com). Nearly 14,000 dogs from all over the world have their profiles online at the site, with their pictures, nicknames, favorite activities, friends and more. Created by self-confessed "dog freaks and computer geeks," the site is free to use after registration. You can search for your favorite breed of dog, or look for dogs in your area. Dogster is an addictive Web site, and great fun to play with.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our cocker spaniel has the typical long, silky ears of the breed. We like the look, so we don't trim them much (Charley goes to the groomer every month), but we have a problem with keeping those lovely ears clean. When he eats, he drags his ears in his dish, and so they sop up the liquid in his meals. Do you have suggestions for dealing with this? -- C.M., via e-mail

A: The easiest way to keep the fur on long ears clean is to buy or make a snood, which is a simple fabric tube with elastic on both ends. It's designed to slip over the dog's head and keep the ears up and out of the way during eating. (Dog-show people also use them to keep freshly groomed dogs neat until they go in the show ring.) Snoods can usually be found at dog shows, or from merchants who specialize in supplies for showing, such as Cherrybrook (www.cherrybrook.com; 800-524-0820).

They do tend to come in goofy patterns and some even have sequins, but they'll only be on for a few minutes a day so you and your dog won't be hideously embarrassed for long.

Q: Last year we put our dog in a kennel while we were on vacation, and when we picked her up she was sick with kennel cough. Other than using a different kennel, can you suggest ways to prevent this from happening again? Can humans catch kennel cough? -- W.O., via e-mail

A: Boarding kennels take some heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that's as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. In fact, some kennel operators even find the name of the disease a little unfair, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, or even bordetella, after its most common causative agent.

Kennel operators are right about the bum rap, because dogs can pick up "kennel cough" any place they might come into contact with a dog who has it -- and that means anywhere. Parks, shelters, boarding kennels, dog shows, grooming shops, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society: These are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. In most dogs the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks, while other pets may need antibiotics to help them get over it. Most all infected dogs can be made more comfortable with cough suppressants. It's always worthwhile to talk to your veterinarian about how to help speed your dog's recovery.

While it's not completely effective against the disease, vaccines are available. Because it takes some time for the immunity to develop, talk to your veterinarian about vaccination at least a month in advance of boarding your dog (or otherwise exposing her to other dogs). Pets who are often in the company of other dogs, such as at dog parks, should have their vaccines kept constantly current. Also, to better protect your dog, look for a kennel that demands proof of vaccinations from all its clients.

Kennel cough cannot be transmitted to humans.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My parrot Eddie, a black-headed caique, is of a species known for clownish behavior and constant energy, not for talking ability. I knew this when I chose him, consciously deciding against a trait that many parrot lovers crave. I didn't really want a bird who always had something to say.

My initial reluctance to keep a chatty pet is why I was surprised at my delight when Eddie spoke his first words not long ago. He repeated my request to "step up" onto my finger before lifting his foot to comply. I guess there's just something about a pet who speaks the same language as we do that's undeniably appealing.

For many people, having a talking pet is one of the primary reasons for getting a parrot in the first place. From the moment someone brings home even a small parrot -- a budgie, cockatiel or lovebird -- the teaching and hoping begin. After all, you don't want to have to answer "no" to the question every parrot owner is asked eventually: "Does he talk?"

The truth is, not all parrots talk, not even those from the species known best for their mimicry, such as the double-yellow-headed and yellow-naped Amazons and the Timneh or Congo varieties of the African grays. While nearly every parrot species kept as a pet has a talker or two among its ranks, some types of birds just aren't known for their mimicry. Some species are better at sounds than words, and some are better at whistling. Eddie, for example, is mostly a whistler, with a repertoire that includes the theme from the Miss America pageant.

The larger parrots -- Amazons, macaws, African grays and cockatoos -- are usually good talkers, but don't count out all the small birds. The tiny budgie is known for its ability, with some birds acquiring a vocabulary of more than 300 words, all articulated in a high-pitched little voice. Some cockatiels are not bad talkers either. Lovebirds, however, are generally considered not that good at picking up words and phrases.

Realistically, it's best to consider talking a bonus rather than a requisite characteristic of your pet. Choose a young, well-socialized bird and love him for his many fine qualities, whether or not talking is among them. That way you're sure not to be disappointed. If you're absolutely set on owning a talking bird, buy one that talks already -- and make sure you hear the conversation before you plunk down payment.

Nothing's wrong with trying to teach your pet to talk, though. You can try to teach your parrot some words and phrases by repeating them clearly, or even by using tapes or computer programs that say the same language over and over. You can nurture communication further by using the words in their proper context, and by setting up an association your bird can grasp.

For example, every time your bird lowers his head to request a scratch, ask him, "Wanna scratch?" and then scratch him. When you give him foods or other toys, call them by name out loud. Play naming games with him. Say "toy" and then tell him "Good bird!" for taking the toy from you, and then repeat the exercise.

You may have an easier time if yours is a one-bird household. Two birds may be more interested in talking their own language with each other than figuring out your expressions. Some experts also suggest not attempting to teach your bird to whistle, at least not until he has picked up speech. Whistling birds seem to show a reluctance to use words.

What about the words or sounds you don't want mimicked? Don't teach them, for a start, no matter how funny it may be to hear your parrot be bawdy. If you think it's funny for your bird to swear in private, you'll have to live with that behavior when the minister's over for dinner. As for those nasties a pet picks up by accident, the best you can do is ignore them, providing neither positive nor negative reinforcement.

Although I really wasn't looking for a talking bird, I'm certainly not disappointed that I have one now. In fact, I'm looking forward to see what Eddie will say next.

THE SCOOP

For safety's sake, always be careful not to use your bare hands when removing ticks. Instead, use tweezers or a tick-pulling device (shaped like a spoon with a slot in it to catch the tick) to remove the pest. You can collect pulled ticks in a bowl with rubbing alcohol in it, then flush the disgusting mess down the toilet when you've collected them all. Watch each area where a tick was for a couple of days, and if you see inflammation or infection, talk to your veterinarian.

Spot-on medications available from your veterinarian will help keep your pet free of both fleas and ticks, but if you live in an area with lots of ticks, you may also need to add a tick collar. With any pest-control products, discuss the risks with your veterinarian, and be sure to follow directions to the letter for your pet's safety.

PETS ON THE WEB

The sugar glider has grown in popularity as a pet in recent years, but as with many exotics, new owners often have a difficult time finding information on proper care and feeding. Glider Central (www.sugarglider.net) aims to help fans of this pet with a site offering a bulletin board for getting questions answered and a page filled with hundreds of links to information on everything from finding a knowledgeable veterinarian to buying glider-themed art. Lots of glider pictures, too.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How difficult is it to hand-feed a baby parrot? We've noticed they're sometimes sold at a discount if you take the baby newly hatched and raise it yourself. We've never hand-fed a bird, and we've never even had a parrot before, although we've thought about getting one for quite a while. One breeder we talked to says hand-feeding is easy, but we're wondering if it's really feasible for us as newbies to parrot-keeping. Also, will it be a better pet if we raise it ourselves? -- J.H., via e-mail

A: Hand-feeding involves using a spoon or syringe to give formula to a baby bird at what starts out as two-hour intervals. The basics of caring for baby birds are the same as with human babies: Keep them warm, keep them clean, and feed them when they're hungry. Socialization is an essential part of the package, too, for young birds should be exposed to gentle handling and the sounds of a human household to make good pets.

Sounds easy? It's not. Taking care of a baby bird is definitely not for beginners. Any avian veterinarian can tell you horror tales of baby birds killed by improper hand-feeding, such as by offering food that's too hot and fatally burns the baby. Although experienced hand-feeders find the work routine, for beginners it's frighteningly easy to bungle the job, with tragic results.

When you factor in the risks, the trouble and all those sleepless nights, hand-feeding your own bird isn't the bargain it may first appear to be. If you're thinking it's important for bonding, rest easy on that point as well. A healthy, well-socialized and fully weaned young bird from a reputable source will have no trouble at all bonding to you and becoming a wonderful pet.

Q: We have a new pet rabbit, just one, and we're not planning to get another. Since there won't be a problem with her becoming a mommy, is it necessary to have her spayed? We heard it's risky. -- R.U., via e-mail

A: Neutering pet rabbits is recommended both to improve health and longevity and to reduce behavior problems.

Female rabbits are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine to mark their territory.

While it's true that anesthesia is generally considered to be riskier for rabbits than it is for dogs and cats, you can greatly minimize the risk by finding a veterinarian with experience in treating rabbits. The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbits.org) offers a listing of experienced rabbit veterinarians on its Web site.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of my favorite sayings comes to mind every year when I think of those who are considering buying their children pets for Easter: Teaching a child not to step on a caterpillar is as important to the child as it is to the caterpillar.

Put in a less graceful way: Don't bungle the chance to make an important contribution to your child's education with the mistaken impulse purchase of a pet who will later be discarded, or who will die of mishandling or neglect.

If you're going to get your child a pet, make sure it's the right one, at the right time, and that you're prepared to work to help your child properly care for the animal.

When it comes to pets for Easter, too often parents don't think long-term. Every year huge numbers of adorable baby rabbits go to new homes for Easter, along with countless chicks and ducklings. And that's bad news for the vast majority of these babies.

Many of the chicks and ducklings will die within a few days or weeks, killed by neglect, improper care or unintentional mishandling by children. Those birds who do make it to adulthood are often turned loose to fend for themselves, once parents realize how unsuitable these messy farm animals are as urban and suburban pets.

Rabbits, on the other hand, can be wonderful pets, but only for those people who are prepared to care for them properly. Although it comes as a surprise to most people, rabbits are not well-suited to life as a children's pet, at least not for very young children and never without adult supervision. Too many rabbits die from injuries caused by children who drop them, or hold them in a way that can injure their backs, without the firm support they need for their lower bodies and hind legs.

And like other pets bought on impulse, a great many rabbits are turned loose or dumped on shelters after the novelty wears off. If you're tempted by the idea of a chick or duckling (picturing your child in her Easter best holding a fluffy baby), please don't give in to temptation. Unless you have a suitably rural setup, you should not entertain the idea of buying such a chick or duckling.

What about a rabbit? These pets are fine for many kinds of homes, including those with older children, but before you bring one home, you must consider ask yourself some questions:

Is your child ready for a pet? Do you have the time to show your child how to properly care for it? And to see that the chores involved are done whether or not the child wants to do them? Will you spend the money for housing, food and veterinary care? Are you willing to show your child how to handle a rabbit, so the animal won't be injured? Finally, are you prepared to keep a rabbit for the decade or so of the animal's natural lifespan?

If you cannot honestly say you will be a responsible parent when it comes to your child's pet, buy a stuffed animal instead. They can take abuse and neglect with nothing more than an occasional ripped seam or detached shoe-button nose. They cannot feel pain, and they will not end up in a shelter.

In the short run, passing up a pet who will not hold your child's interest is important to the welfare of a single animal -- the one you would have bought or adopted. In the long run, teaching your youngster that animals are not to be picked up on a whim and discarded just as lightly is important not only to the welfare of all animals but also to the moral development of your child.

THE SCOOP

For years, pregnant women have been told by well-meaning friends or family members to dump their cats in fear of toxoplasmosis, an infection triggered by an organism that can cause birth defects. Problem is, some people have listened to the advice, leaving many cats homeless when a few simple litter-box cleaning precautions could have almost completely eliminated what was a very small risk to begin with. (The risk of contracting toxoplasmosis from handling uncooked meat is higher, in fact.)

The Humane Society of the United States has launched a campaign to educate obstetricians and gynecologists on cats and the risk of toxoplasmosis, sending out brochures written by an expert at the Yale University School of Medicine. For more information, visit the HSUS Web site's toxoplasmosis information page at www.hsus.org/ace/20387.

PETS ON THE WEB

One of my favorite pictures of all time is of my mother as a curly-headed toddler with the family dog, Pelo, a terrier mix with even more curls. I was thinking of this adorable shot when looking at the Women and Dogs Web site (www.womenanddogsuk.co.uk) a collection of pictures of women of all ages with their canine companions. Although the pictures are all from the United Kingdom, part of the Web site owner's collection of found images, the love shown for the dogs is universal, and so the pictures will remind many people of that one special dog and the love once shared.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I always look forward to your articles, but I was particularly pleased when you emphasized the importance of considering the plight of homeless animals in your recent column on breeders. Shelter animals desperately need the public's constant focus if we're ever going to reach a day when people must actually sign up for an animal via a "waiting list."

There will always be responsible breeders and thankfully so, as there are many wonderful breeds of dogs and cats that should be perpetuated. However, a potential pet owner should realize that there are just as many wonderful, highly adoptable puppies and kittens, cats and dogs, and, other loving pets just begging for a home at the local shelters and pounds. Will you keep reminding them? -- S.T., via e-mail

A: My experiences over the years have absolutely convinced me that the pets in shelters and rescue groups may be secondhand, but they are certainly not second-rate. I have taken in, fostered and placed pets who were so beautiful and well-mannered that I simply could not believe their previous owners could find any reason to decide the animals were too much trouble to live with.

On the other hand, there are some homeless pets with problems so severe -- primarily behavioral -- that relatively few people could handle them. The problems aren't usually the pets' fault, but rather the result of poor socialization and a lack of training on the part of the original owners. These pets are best avoided by anyone who's not capable of, or willing to take on, the huge responsibility of rehabilitating them, no matter how cute and needy they seem.

Fortunately, most shelter or rescue pets just need a little training and readjustment, and some don't even need that. I always recommend working with a rescue group or shelter that uses temperament tests to evaluate their animals and adoption counselors to help match a pet to a potential new owner's household situation.

Q: I have noticed that when I hike with my two Labrador mixes and they are off-leash, they sniff and wag their tails when we run into other dogs. However, when they are on-leash and we meet other dogs, they are much more likely to act aggressively. Is this just them? -- P.P., via e-mail

A: On-leash aggression is a very common problem. That's one reason why dog parks often have double-gated entries, to facilitate the removal of leashes before new dogs are introduced to the pets already in the park. When dogs are leashed, they have a greater feeling of territoriality and protectiveness toward their owners. Their nasty behavior often escalates over time because the owner's own anxiety and subsequent behavior at seeing another dog approach -- tightening the leash, jerking on the collar and so on. This cues the dog that something is wrong and ramps up the aggressive behavior.

To break this cycle, get the help of a trainer to teach you and your dogs how to behave when other dogs approach. The trainer will help you spot the bad-behavior cues you're giving your dogs and teach you instead how to short-circuit your dogs' ill manners before the barking and pulling begins.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600