My parrot Eddie, a black-headed caique, is of a species known for clownish behavior and constant energy, not for talking ability. I knew this when I chose him, consciously deciding against a trait that many parrot lovers crave. I didn't really want a bird who always had something to say.

My initial reluctance to keep a chatty pet is why I was surprised at my delight when Eddie spoke his first words not long ago. He repeated my request to "step up" onto my finger before lifting his foot to comply. I guess there's just something about a pet who speaks the same language as we do that's undeniably appealing.

For many people, having a talking pet is one of the primary reasons for getting a parrot in the first place. From the moment someone brings home even a small parrot -- a budgie, cockatiel or lovebird -- the teaching and hoping begin. After all, you don't want to have to answer "no" to the question every parrot owner is asked eventually: "Does he talk?"

The truth is, not all parrots talk, not even those from the species known best for their mimicry, such as the double-yellow-headed and yellow-naped Amazons and the Timneh or Congo varieties of the African grays. While nearly every parrot species kept as a pet has a talker or two among its ranks, some types of birds just aren't known for their mimicry. Some species are better at sounds than words, and some are better at whistling. Eddie, for example, is mostly a whistler, with a repertoire that includes the theme from the Miss America pageant.

The larger parrots -- Amazons, macaws, African grays and cockatoos -- are usually good talkers, but don't count out all the small birds. The tiny budgie is known for its ability, with some birds acquiring a vocabulary of more than 300 words, all articulated in a high-pitched little voice. Some cockatiels are not bad talkers either. Lovebirds, however, are generally considered not that good at picking up words and phrases.

Realistically, it's best to consider talking a bonus rather than a requisite characteristic of your pet. Choose a young, well-socialized bird and love him for his many fine qualities, whether or not talking is among them. That way you're sure not to be disappointed. If you're absolutely set on owning a talking bird, buy one that talks already -- and make sure you hear the conversation before you plunk down payment.

Nothing's wrong with trying to teach your pet to talk, though. You can try to teach your parrot some words and phrases by repeating them clearly, or even by using tapes or computer programs that say the same language over and over. You can nurture communication further by using the words in their proper context, and by setting up an association your bird can grasp.

For example, every time your bird lowers his head to request a scratch, ask him, "Wanna scratch?" and then scratch him. When you give him foods or other toys, call them by name out loud. Play naming games with him. Say "toy" and then tell him "Good bird!" for taking the toy from you, and then repeat the exercise.

You may have an easier time if yours is a one-bird household. Two birds may be more interested in talking their own language with each other than figuring out your expressions. Some experts also suggest not attempting to teach your bird to whistle, at least not until he has picked up speech. Whistling birds seem to show a reluctance to use words.

What about the words or sounds you don't want mimicked? Don't teach them, for a start, no matter how funny it may be to hear your parrot be bawdy. If you think it's funny for your bird to swear in private, you'll have to live with that behavior when the minister's over for dinner. As for those nasties a pet picks up by accident, the best you can do is ignore them, providing neither positive nor negative reinforcement.

Although I really wasn't looking for a talking bird, I'm certainly not disappointed that I have one now. In fact, I'm looking forward to see what Eddie will say next.

THE SCOOP

For safety's sake, always be careful not to use your bare hands when removing ticks. Instead, use tweezers or a tick-pulling device (shaped like a spoon with a slot in it to catch the tick) to remove the pest. You can collect pulled ticks in a bowl with rubbing alcohol in it, then flush the disgusting mess down the toilet when you've collected them all. Watch each area where a tick was for a couple of days, and if you see inflammation or infection, talk to your veterinarian.

Spot-on medications available from your veterinarian will help keep your pet free of both fleas and ticks, but if you live in an area with lots of ticks, you may also need to add a tick collar. With any pest-control products, discuss the risks with your veterinarian, and be sure to follow directions to the letter for your pet's safety.

PETS ON THE WEB

The sugar glider has grown in popularity as a pet in recent years, but as with many exotics, new owners often have a difficult time finding information on proper care and feeding. Glider Central (www.sugarglider.net) aims to help fans of this pet with a site offering a bulletin board for getting questions answered and a page filled with hundreds of links to information on everything from finding a knowledgeable veterinarian to buying glider-themed art. Lots of glider pictures, too.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: How difficult is it to hand-feed a baby parrot? We've noticed they're sometimes sold at a discount if you take the baby newly hatched and raise it yourself. We've never hand-fed a bird, and we've never even had a parrot before, although we've thought about getting one for quite a while. One breeder we talked to says hand-feeding is easy, but we're wondering if it's really feasible for us as newbies to parrot-keeping. Also, will it be a better pet if we raise it ourselves? -- J.H., via e-mail

A: Hand-feeding involves using a spoon or syringe to give formula to a baby bird at what starts out as two-hour intervals. The basics of caring for baby birds are the same as with human babies: Keep them warm, keep them clean, and feed them when they're hungry. Socialization is an essential part of the package, too, for young birds should be exposed to gentle handling and the sounds of a human household to make good pets.

Sounds easy? It's not. Taking care of a baby bird is definitely not for beginners. Any avian veterinarian can tell you horror tales of baby birds killed by improper hand-feeding, such as by offering food that's too hot and fatally burns the baby. Although experienced hand-feeders find the work routine, for beginners it's frighteningly easy to bungle the job, with tragic results.

When you factor in the risks, the trouble and all those sleepless nights, hand-feeding your own bird isn't the bargain it may first appear to be. If you're thinking it's important for bonding, rest easy on that point as well. A healthy, well-socialized and fully weaned young bird from a reputable source will have no trouble at all bonding to you and becoming a wonderful pet.

Q: We have a new pet rabbit, just one, and we're not planning to get another. Since there won't be a problem with her becoming a mommy, is it necessary to have her spayed? We heard it's risky. -- R.U., via e-mail

A: Neutering pet rabbits is recommended both to improve health and longevity and to reduce behavior problems.

Female rabbits are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections. Besides extending your pet's life span, altering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine to mark their territory.

While it's true that anesthesia is generally considered to be riskier for rabbits than it is for dogs and cats, you can greatly minimize the risk by finding a veterinarian with experience in treating rabbits. The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbits.org) offers a listing of experienced rabbit veterinarians on its Web site.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of my favorite sayings comes to mind every year when I think of those who are considering buying their children pets for Easter: Teaching a child not to step on a caterpillar is as important to the child as it is to the caterpillar.

Put in a less graceful way: Don't bungle the chance to make an important contribution to your child's education with the mistaken impulse purchase of a pet who will later be discarded, or who will die of mishandling or neglect.

If you're going to get your child a pet, make sure it's the right one, at the right time, and that you're prepared to work to help your child properly care for the animal.

When it comes to pets for Easter, too often parents don't think long-term. Every year huge numbers of adorable baby rabbits go to new homes for Easter, along with countless chicks and ducklings. And that's bad news for the vast majority of these babies.

Many of the chicks and ducklings will die within a few days or weeks, killed by neglect, improper care or unintentional mishandling by children. Those birds who do make it to adulthood are often turned loose to fend for themselves, once parents realize how unsuitable these messy farm animals are as urban and suburban pets.

Rabbits, on the other hand, can be wonderful pets, but only for those people who are prepared to care for them properly. Although it comes as a surprise to most people, rabbits are not well-suited to life as a children's pet, at least not for very young children and never without adult supervision. Too many rabbits die from injuries caused by children who drop them, or hold them in a way that can injure their backs, without the firm support they need for their lower bodies and hind legs.

And like other pets bought on impulse, a great many rabbits are turned loose or dumped on shelters after the novelty wears off. If you're tempted by the idea of a chick or duckling (picturing your child in her Easter best holding a fluffy baby), please don't give in to temptation. Unless you have a suitably rural setup, you should not entertain the idea of buying such a chick or duckling.

What about a rabbit? These pets are fine for many kinds of homes, including those with older children, but before you bring one home, you must consider ask yourself some questions:

Is your child ready for a pet? Do you have the time to show your child how to properly care for it? And to see that the chores involved are done whether or not the child wants to do them? Will you spend the money for housing, food and veterinary care? Are you willing to show your child how to handle a rabbit, so the animal won't be injured? Finally, are you prepared to keep a rabbit for the decade or so of the animal's natural lifespan?

If you cannot honestly say you will be a responsible parent when it comes to your child's pet, buy a stuffed animal instead. They can take abuse and neglect with nothing more than an occasional ripped seam or detached shoe-button nose. They cannot feel pain, and they will not end up in a shelter.

In the short run, passing up a pet who will not hold your child's interest is important to the welfare of a single animal -- the one you would have bought or adopted. In the long run, teaching your youngster that animals are not to be picked up on a whim and discarded just as lightly is important not only to the welfare of all animals but also to the moral development of your child.

THE SCOOP

For years, pregnant women have been told by well-meaning friends or family members to dump their cats in fear of toxoplasmosis, an infection triggered by an organism that can cause birth defects. Problem is, some people have listened to the advice, leaving many cats homeless when a few simple litter-box cleaning precautions could have almost completely eliminated what was a very small risk to begin with. (The risk of contracting toxoplasmosis from handling uncooked meat is higher, in fact.)

The Humane Society of the United States has launched a campaign to educate obstetricians and gynecologists on cats and the risk of toxoplasmosis, sending out brochures written by an expert at the Yale University School of Medicine. For more information, visit the HSUS Web site's toxoplasmosis information page at www.hsus.org/ace/20387.

PETS ON THE WEB

One of my favorite pictures of all time is of my mother as a curly-headed toddler with the family dog, Pelo, a terrier mix with even more curls. I was thinking of this adorable shot when looking at the Women and Dogs Web site (www.womenanddogsuk.co.uk) a collection of pictures of women of all ages with their canine companions. Although the pictures are all from the United Kingdom, part of the Web site owner's collection of found images, the love shown for the dogs is universal, and so the pictures will remind many people of that one special dog and the love once shared.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I always look forward to your articles, but I was particularly pleased when you emphasized the importance of considering the plight of homeless animals in your recent column on breeders. Shelter animals desperately need the public's constant focus if we're ever going to reach a day when people must actually sign up for an animal via a "waiting list."

There will always be responsible breeders and thankfully so, as there are many wonderful breeds of dogs and cats that should be perpetuated. However, a potential pet owner should realize that there are just as many wonderful, highly adoptable puppies and kittens, cats and dogs, and, other loving pets just begging for a home at the local shelters and pounds. Will you keep reminding them? -- S.T., via e-mail

A: My experiences over the years have absolutely convinced me that the pets in shelters and rescue groups may be secondhand, but they are certainly not second-rate. I have taken in, fostered and placed pets who were so beautiful and well-mannered that I simply could not believe their previous owners could find any reason to decide the animals were too much trouble to live with.

On the other hand, there are some homeless pets with problems so severe -- primarily behavioral -- that relatively few people could handle them. The problems aren't usually the pets' fault, but rather the result of poor socialization and a lack of training on the part of the original owners. These pets are best avoided by anyone who's not capable of, or willing to take on, the huge responsibility of rehabilitating them, no matter how cute and needy they seem.

Fortunately, most shelter or rescue pets just need a little training and readjustment, and some don't even need that. I always recommend working with a rescue group or shelter that uses temperament tests to evaluate their animals and adoption counselors to help match a pet to a potential new owner's household situation.

Q: I have noticed that when I hike with my two Labrador mixes and they are off-leash, they sniff and wag their tails when we run into other dogs. However, when they are on-leash and we meet other dogs, they are much more likely to act aggressively. Is this just them? -- P.P., via e-mail

A: On-leash aggression is a very common problem. That's one reason why dog parks often have double-gated entries, to facilitate the removal of leashes before new dogs are introduced to the pets already in the park. When dogs are leashed, they have a greater feeling of territoriality and protectiveness toward their owners. Their nasty behavior often escalates over time because the owner's own anxiety and subsequent behavior at seeing another dog approach -- tightening the leash, jerking on the collar and so on. This cues the dog that something is wrong and ramps up the aggressive behavior.

To break this cycle, get the help of a trainer to teach you and your dogs how to behave when other dogs approach. The trainer will help you spot the bad-behavior cues you're giving your dogs and teach you instead how to short-circuit your dogs' ill manners before the barking and pulling begins.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

My friend Sonia recently "stole" her uncle's cat for a couple of weeks while he was on vacation. She decided the gregarious orange tabby was lonely in an empty apartment and she took him into her own home for the duration of her uncle's trip.

The cat settled in happily, but Sonia worried, "My houseplants, what if they're poisonous?" After a quick check on the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center Web site (www.aspca.org/apcc). The apartment soon held fewer plants, but still one happy cat. Sonia then started thinking of adding other plants that are safe for nibbling, just to make the cat even happier. A good idea, I assured her, even in the short run.

For the indoor-only cat, plants are an important part of an ideal environment that should also include a variety of toys, cat trees and scratching posts, and screened porches or window perches that allow the intriguing scents of the hazardous world outside safely into a cat's life.

If your cat loves to nibble on houseplants, make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. In addition to the Animal Poison Control Center's online reference, "The Cornell Book of Cats" (Villard, $35) also lists those plants that have no place in a house with cats. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat who likes to dig and chew.

The other problem with cats and houseplants is strictly irritation -- not to the pet's system, but to the owner's. Some cats are industrious destroyers of household greenery, while others like to kick dirt around or even use larger pots as litter boxes. All of which makes perfect sense to your cat, annoying as it may be to you.

Can people, cats and plants coexist? With an understanding of your cat's needs and a consistent approach to the problem, you bet they can.

Understand that your cat needs and wants plants in your home. Indulge your pet by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye-grass seeds at the nursery.

Catnip, too, is something that's always better when fresh, as is valerian. While not all cats react to the pleasures of these plants, those who do will appreciate your keeping them in-house, and using fresh cuttings to recharge cat posts and toys.

When your cat has his own plants, you can work on keeping him away from yours. Plants on the floor or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet, hang them.

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating the greenery with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point. You can also discourage your pet by shooting him with the spray from a water bottle when you see him in the plants.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil with rough, decorative rock to discourage digging. Foil and waxed paper are also useful deterrents to diggers, but I don't like to recommend those products because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil. Decorative rock can stay in place forever.

Remember that resolving behavior problems often takes time and involves a bit of compromise on your part. Give your cats the greens he wants, protect him from the ones that might hurt him and make the rest less attractive to him. And one day, a lush indoor garden will be yours for both you and your cat to enjoy.

PETS ON THE WEB

Although purebred cats aren't as popular as purebred dogs, a handful of breeds do enjoy a dedicated following. Among them is the gorgeous Maine Coon, a large, longhaired breed with an easygoing disposition. The Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association's Web site (www.mcbfa.org) offers information on this rugged American cat, which despite stories to the contrary did not develop as the result of matings between raccoons and New England ship cats. (That's biologically impossible!)

The site offers the true story of this special breed – one of whom was the winner of an early North American cat show, in 1895 -- along with information on finding the right breeder, caring and even showing the Maine Coon.

THE SCOOP

Old dogs sometimes get finicky, and it can be a trick to keep them eating. While you may be tempted to add table scraps such as meat trimmings to their dish, it's really not that good an idea. Foods that are too fatty or spicy can cause a tummy ache, or even an attack of pancreatitis, which could be deadly. Onions must be avoided, too.

When I have fussy oldsters, I rely on simple chicken or beef broth to add interest to their meal. Choose a variety that's low on fat and salt, warm to just above room temperature and add to food for a yummy soupiness. (The addition also helps keep older pets hydrated.) You can also squeeze the juice from a clove of garlic into the mix -- many dogs love the stuff!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Will you remind people about leaving their dogs in cars? The weather got warm in a hurry here in Northern California, but people don't seem to think about the danger that means for their pets until later in the summer when the triple-digit temperatures start.

I have already seen one dog left in a car in a parking lot. He was panting, and I was considering having the owner paged in the store when she came back to the car. I didn't say anything, but I wanted to. (Guess I'm a little shy.)

Will you please spread the word? I don't know why people don't get it. -- P.L., via e-mail, Santa Rosa, Calif.

A: It is indeed remarkable that this warning needs repeating every spring, but clearly, people just don't think about the danger until the weather moves from warm to hot.

A car functions like a greenhouse, and heat can build up to lethal levels in minutes, even on a pleasant day in the 70s or low 80s. Even with the windows rolled down, a dog can show signs of heat stress -- heavy panting, glazed eyes, rapid pulse, dizziness or vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue -- in the time it takes to carry a carton of ice cream through the "10 items or less" line. Brain damage and death can follow within minutes. Shade is no guarantee of safety, especially on a very warm day.

Many animal-welfare groups have preprinted warning fliers ready to slip under a windshield wiper. You might want to pick up a few to keep in your glove box, along with the number to call if you see a dog who's in trouble. Your local shelter or humane association should be able to give you that information in advance, so you'll have it when you need it, and you won't have to confront someone. (I'm a little shy, too, so I understand.)

If you see an animal is in distress, though, please get help right away. It just doesn't take that long for the heat to kill a pet, and your intervention may save the animal's life.

Q: Is it really safe to use old newspapers in my bird's cage? What about the ink? -- B.D., via e-mail

A: Old newspapers are so commonly used to line the bottom of birdcages that many manufacturers size their products so that sheets of standard newspapers fit the trays exactly. Regular black-and-white newspaper sheets are fine for lining cage trays, although I'd skip the glossy inserts and pages with color inks.

Every morning after I read my newspapers I put the plain "bird pages" in a pile near my parrot's cage and set the color and glossy pages in the recycling bin. Since I take three newspapers, I believe my bird to be one of the best-read pets around!

If you really want to go ink-free, check with your local newspaper. Some sells the ends of the newsprint rolls that go on the presses, usually at a bargain price.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600