The owners of a sparkling white American bichon frise might want to send Elizabeth Hurley a thank-you note after their dog fared so well at the 101st staging of the world's biggest dog show, Crufts, held the first week of March in Birmingham, England.

If it weren't for Hurley's passionate advocacy for the end of the United Kingdom's draconian six-month rabies quarantine laws after her own dog died, the American bichon frise, Champion Paray's I Told You So, likely would have stayed home. And that means he wouldn't have been named the best of the toy breeds at Crufts, giving the British dog-show establishment a bit of a scare that the show's top honor would go to an American dog for the first time ever.

In the end, an English whippet was named Best in Show, and the empire was safe from Colonial invaders -- for another year, at least.

Still, it was difficult not to notice Americans and their dogs at the show, the first one held since the U.K.'s new no-quarantine import laws were expanded to include U.S. and Canadian dogs.

While the bichon, informally known to his admirers as Buster, came over months ago to launch a successful U.K. show career with his new British handler and co-owner, other Americans left just a few days before showing. One of these, Christina Wistrom of Perris, Calif., saw her top-winning Rhodesian Ridgeback sealed into a container at the Los Angeles airport four days before she was to compete. She was reunited with the dog in London a day later. It was a long journey, to be sure, but much easier than a six-month stay in a quarantine kennel.

"They drilled a lot of holes in her carrier, and then sealed her up inside," said Wistrom, looking pretty relaxed for someone who'd just taken her dog halfway around the world. The dog, Champion Deer Ridge Blixen of Afrika, simply looked bored. "I'm Swedish," said Wistrom, "so the travel isn't a big deal for me. And Blixen's traveled before, too."

Blixen, whose grandfather was a best-of-breed winner at the prestigious Westminster show in the United States, didn't do quite as well against the Brits as did Buster the bichon. "We're here for the experience," shrugged Wistrom, when asked about her chances before she and Blixen went into the ring.

And what an experience it was. The four-day show draws almost 22,000 dogs, including more than 600 from 22 different countries. In the massive halls of the National Exhibition Centre -- a complex so large it surely can be seen from space -- hundreds of vendors hawk everything from dog toys to human raincoats to the 130,000 visitors.

In the end, though, all these numbers came down to just seven dogs -- the group winners -- and then one Best in Show. Caught before the finale, one of Buster's co-owners, Lori Kornfeld of Ridgefield, Conn., there with her husband Tracy, seemed more exhausted than excited.

"We're numb," she admitted, before lighting up when prompted to talk about Buster, who loves his toys, sleeps on the bed paws-up and never fails to come alive when it's time to show. The dog was bred in Orangevale, Calif., by Paul Flores and Tray Pittman, who were also on hand to root for Buster.

"We knew early on he'd be special," said Lori Kornfeld. "He knows when it's time to show."

But it wasn't enough on that night. Tracy Kornfeld, who'd put in a call to his sister the minister for a little extra help, nonetheless was able to keep things in perspective. Even without a Crufts Best in Show, the dog had done splendidly, he pointed out, not only as one of the top show dogs in two countries but also as a dad, siring 13 American champions already.

"We win, great," he said. "But at the end of the day, it's just dogs."

PETS ON THE WEB

The Cats' House is back! Artists Bob Walker and Frances Mooney turned their home into a colorful paradise for their cats, complete with floor-to-ceiling scratching posts and overhead catwalks that take the cats from room to room through special passages cut through the walls.

The couple produced some entertaining books documenting their home and their cats. The first, "The Cats' House" ($17, Andrews McMeel), is my favorite. They have been featured on countless TV shows and magazines. While there's nothing quite like a visit to the home, the artists' new Web site (www.pix.tv) comes pretty close, offering a tour of every room as well as pages showing how the house came together.

THE SCOOP

With gardening season at hand, it's important to come up with a safe strategy for eliminating snails. Many brands of snail bait are not just deadly to snails and slugs but also to dogs, cats and birds. Instead of laying out bait, look for snails at night with a flashlight, picking up pests and putting them in a bag that then goes in the garbage bin.

If you suspect your pet has gotten into snail bait -- symptoms include frothing at the mouth, vomiting and convulsions -- see your veterinarian immediately. Your pet's life depends on your prompt action.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a cat with a urination problem. After two different vets, a behaviorist and dozens of tests, it was determined pretty darn conclusively to be a behavior issue. During the course of this year-long battle we've tried adding litter boxes, offering different litter choices, different diets (to address urinary pH as a possible culprit), and just about every prescription drug known to treat this behavior in cats.

We have admitted defeat and have decided to put her outside with inside visitation rights. We would like to keep her confined to the back yard but are unsure the best method to do so. I've seen special cat fences that keep cats in, but that would permit and potentially trap other neighborhood cats in our yard. I've also seen electric collar containment systems similar to the dog shock collars that are made for a cat and can be placed along your fence line. Are there any better options? -- K.T., via e-mail

A: Although I know lots of people who like them, I'm not fond of electronic containment systems. I don't like the idea of shocking a pet -- even though I know the shock is relatively mild. And I don't like the fact that people or other animals can come into the secured area and attack the collared pet.

When it comes to keeping pets secure, I believe in real fences.

Cat fencing would be a good option for your pet. Applied to the inside of a traditional fence, cat fencing consists of inward-facing panels that serve to keep a cat from getting over the top of the fence and out of the yard. While this sort of fencing is no deterrent to keeping other cats (or such predators as coyotes) away from your cat, it should accomplish the goal of keeping your cat in your yard and out of trouble.

You can buy ready-made kits from Cat Fence-In (www.catfencein.com; 888-738-9099) or Affordable Cat Fence (www.catfence.com; 888-840-2287), or put together the materials on your own. One set of directions can be found on the Humane Society Silicon Valley's Web site, at www.hssv.org/behavior/cat/cat_fence.htm.

A better option for your cat would be to build an enclosure that's something like a screened patio, or modify an existing patio to suit. Your cat would then be protected from roaming and from animals who might come in to your yard.

Q: I'm finding contradictory information on the Web on the subject of grit for birds. We have two cockatiels. Do they need grit, or not? I notice the pet store still sells it. -- T.E., via e-mail

A: Grit, or finely ground rock, was for years thought to help birds grind their food, but it's no longer recommended for most birds by avian experts such as my "Birds for Dummies" co-author, Dr. Brian L. Speer, a board-certified avian specialist and past president of the Association of Avian Veterinarians.

Indeed, grit is now thought to have a negative impact on bird health, removing vitamins A, B and K from the digestive system. And grit occasionally leads to a potentially life-threatening problem, when the amount of the stuff in the bird blocks the digestive system.

Still, some birds can make use of a small amount of grit. Canaries and other finches should be allowed a couple of grains every couple of months. Other birds, from budgies, cockatiels and lovebirds on up, don't need grit at all and shouldn't be offered it.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When a dog or cat is sick, you'll usually know it. Sometimes you don't know what it is that you know, just that your pet isn't behaving normally. One of my veterinarian friends call this an "ADR" pet -- "ain't doin' right" -- when the owners bring the animal in to find out what's wrong.

When a bird is sick, though, you often won't know it. And when you do notice a problem, you have a very sick bird on your hands -- and maybe, soon, a dead one. Not because birds are fragile -- they're actually pretty tough -- but because by the time their illness is noticed, birds are usually very ill indeed and sometimes too far gone to be helped.

There's a reason why birds struggle so hard to look healthy. The wild ancestors of most pet birds are prey animals, and with animals on the lower rungs of the food chain it's essential to hide any sign of illness. A wild bird who acts sick will attract the attention of a predator and will soon be someone's lunch.

Most pet birds are at most a few generations removed from the wild -- not near enough to give up the survival behaviors of their species. That's why some birds who seem fine one day are found dead the next: They were likely ill for a long time, but they managed to hide the symptoms.

The best way to catch an illness before your bird gets too sick to be helped is to have your pet see a veterinarian regularly for wellness checkups. Your bird will be better off with a board-certified avian specialist, if there's one available in your area, or with a veterinarian who is comfortable treating birds and who keeps up with the latest health information on these pets.

It's sometimes difficult to judge what needs immediate attention and what can wait until tomorrow. Here are some guidelines in determining how best to respond to any problems:

-- Life-threatening emergencies. These need to be dealt with immediately by a veterinarian. They include bites or deep cuts, bleeding that can't be stopped, burns, poisoning, difficulty breathing, collapse, blood in droppings, or straining to defecate or pass an egg. In these situations, you can't get help fast enough. If it's after hours and your regular avian veterinarian cannot be reached, you'll need to visit an emergency clinic. Not all of these clinics treat birds, so take time now to explore your options so you'll know where to go in an emergency.

-- Urgent situations. Problems that should be seen by a veterinarian within a few hours of your noticing them include eye injuries, or a lack of interest in eating, especially if your bird also seems "puffed up." Sudden swellings also demand relatively fast care, as do broken bones and diarrhea. Direct contact with dog or cat saliva, regardless of whether or not the skin was broken, is also an urgent matter -- your bird will likely need to be started on antibiotics right away.

Everything else falls into the category of not-so-urgent, but even then, don't get complacent. If there's a problem, your pet should see your veterinarian the next day. And if any of the more urgent symptoms pop up, get help sooner. No matter what, remember that a "wait and see" attitude is never appropriate for a sick bird the way it is for dogs and cats. When in doubt, you should at the very least call your veterinarian. Your bird's life may well depend on your prompt attention.

PETS ON THE WEB

Every now and then someone will e-mail me a video clip of someone doing a very elaborate performance with her golden retriever, a choreographed display that looks like nothing so much as a dance routine. That lone clip is just the tip of the iceberg, because the lovely dancers are actually competitors in the relatively new sport of canine freestyle, an entertaining spin-off of classic canine obedience competitions that's set to music. It's fun for competitors and onlookers alike.

The governing body of this sport is the World Canine Freestyle Organization. The WCFO Web site (www.worldcaninefreestyle.org) offers information on the sport for those who'd like to try it, as well as clips of winning performances for anyone to enjoy.

THE SCOOP

Never give your cat any over-the-counter medication without clearing it with your veterinarian first. That's a good rule to remember in general, but in particular, it takes on deadly significance when it comes to painkillers. Although you can safely give aspirin to arthritic dogs, the smaller size and different metabolism of cats make aspirin a dangerous proposition for them. Acetaminophen, the active ingredient in Tylenol, can kill your cat, as can some of the newer, longer-lasting painkillers available in nonprescription form for human use.

If your cat is in pain, call your veterinarian immediately. Cats can be very stoic, and if you're noticing your pet's discomfort, he's really suffering and needs immediate care. As for chronic pain, your veterinarian can prescribe something that's effective and safe.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you for the article on rats. We have had five pet rats and dearly loved them. They were some of the best pets ever. Like you, we encountered the typical "ewww, yuck" reaction from people, but we remain to this day staunch rat apologists. We have lost them to the various typical rat problems -- tumors and respiratory ailments. Each time we lost one, it tore our hearts out. We hope to be able to work up the nerve to have rats again someday. For now, we just can't take losing them so quickly. Thank you for brightening our day with the fond memories of our beloved pets. -– T.A., Butler, Ohio, via e-mail

Q: Your article on rats was great! It's hard to be a rat-keeper because so many people dislike them. Once in a while, I'll take a rat to my son's school when I pick him up. The kids love the rats and are very gentle

with them. The parents, on the other hand, sniff at me as they look down their noses at our unconventional pets. It was wonderful to see some positive rat PR. I can't wait to read future columns on rats. -- S.M., Sacramento, Calif., via e- mail

A: I received a flood of e-mail from people who keep rats as pets and love them for their affectionate, clever ways. "We are not children, and our children are grown. And still, we have rats, and always will. They are so much fun!" wrote one rat fan. A friend of mine confessed that she once took her rat to work in a box, so the animal could be monitored after surgery to remove a tumor. Oh yes, we love our rats!

Other readers pointed out some cautions for would-be rat fans. First, rats don't live that long -- two or three years is the norm. Second, rats will live even shorter lives if some other common pets have anything to say about it.

Dogs developed to hunt vermin (notably terriers and dachshunds) are likely to resent the presence of their traditional nemesis and drive you crazy with their desires to kill the smaller pets. In my home, the retrievers and the toy spaniel could not care less about the rats, but the Sheltie is visibly offended by their presence. In his case, a few sharp words were enough to get him to leave the rats alone, but in a stronger-minded dog such as the average terrier, it's probably easier not to mix species at all.

Rats are especially wonderful for people who can't have dogs or cats because of living-space conditions. These pets don't take up much space (although the larger a cage they have, the better) and are very quiet. When socialized, they can be as affectionate as any dog, and will quickly learn not only their names but also any tricks you take the time to teach them. They will do anything for their favorite foods!

Because rats are inexpensive to acquire, they're also considered by many to be "disposable" and are often dumped on shelters or rescue groups, or simply turned loose to die. If you want a rat, please consider adopting a rescued rat -- they deserve a second chance at a caring home.

For rat resources, visit the Web sites of the Rat and Mouse Club of America (www.rmca.org), the Rat Fan Club (www.ratfanclub.org) or Virginia's Rat Page (home.interlog.com/~audiotre/rats).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Before I write one word of advice about buying a purebred puppy, I have to stress that for most people, finding even the most reputable breeder isn't the only path to finding a wonderful family pet.

Shelter and rescue groups offer puppies and adult dogs galore, purebreds and mixes both. Many dogs are discarded for the flimsiest of reasons and are ready to slip into a new home with little in the way of adjustment. Many others just need a fresh start and a little training. These animals deserve a chance, and the rewards of owning one of them are many. Good dog, good price and a good feeling in your heart -- this is why three of my four dogs are "recycled rovers."

But I'm enough of a realist to know that there will always be those who have their heart set on a purebred puppy. They're after a particular look, a particular personality, or they insist on raising a dog on their own. Others are open to the idea of a shelter dog, but have found out that although large breeds such as Labradors are plentiful in shelters, if you want a small purebred, especially less common ones, you're probably going to have to buy a puppy.

If you're buying a purebred puppy, you need to find a reputable breeder. I simply can't stress this enough. If you don't make that effort, you may end up dealing with expensive health problems caused by poor breeding and vexing behavior problems brought on by a lack of socialization and by unsanitary kennel conditions. (Puppies raised in their own filth, for example, are notoriously difficult to house-train.)

It takes time to find a good breeder, and more time until she'll have a puppy for you. Reputable breeders do not churn out litters to make money: They plan their pairings carefully, not all that frequently and often have waiting lists for their puppies. They generally don't advertise, and can be found primarily by word of mouth.

Start by finding contact information on the national club for your breed, either by calling the American Kennel Club (919-233-9767) or visiting the Web site at www.akc.org. Then call, write or e-mail and ask for the club's information packet and for referral to a breeder in your region. Once you have some names and the numbers, start networking. If one breeder doesn't have puppies, ask for the names of those who do.

When you find a breeder, ask lots of questions, and expect to be grilled in return. It's nothing personal: Reputable breeders care about their dogs and want them to go the best homes possible. Plus, they will always take back a dog they bred, no matter the circumstances, so they'd much rather get it right the first time when it comes to placing a pet.

Ask the breeder to tell you about the breed, the good and the bad both, and what she sees as the strengths and weaknesses in the dogs she herself breeds. Ask about congenital defects in the breed (almost all have them), health certifications (the parents must have them), a regimen of puppy socialization and contracts that spell out what happens if the puppy you buy ends up with health problems.

Once all the questions have been asked and answered to the satisfaction of all and the contracts and check are signed, you'll be heading home with what you hoped for most: a healthy, well-socialized puppy with the promise of turning into a wonderful companion -- and a reputable breeder who'll be there to answer the rest of your questions for the life of your dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

Dr. P's Dog Training (www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/dog.htm) is one of the oldest resources on the Web for information on training and behavior, and it's still one of the best. Dr. P is Mark Plonsky, a professor of psychology at the University of Wisconsin, Stevens Point, who has a professional interest in how animals learn and a personal interest in helping others teach their dogs to be better behaved. The site is simple and easy-to-navigate, but has a depth of information that'll provide interesting reading for a long time.

THE SCOOP

Grinding nails can be less painful and stressful to pets than clipping them. I've used a Dremel cordless rotary tool for years on those pets (the parrot and one of the dogs) who absolutely hate to have nail clippers anywhere near them. (The other dogs are just fine with clipping.)

Dremel has now come out with a rotary tool expressly designed for use with pets. The Dremel Pet Nail Grooming Kit (suggested retail: $30) is small, lightweight and cordless, running on four AA batteries and coming with four extra sanding drums and directions. If you already have a cordless Dremel, I wouldn't recommend adding this one just for grinding pet nails, but if you want a rotary tool for handling this grooming task alone, the Pet Nail Kit will fit the bill.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I will be moving from Connecticut to Georgia in June. I am not hiring movers or flying by plane because I can't afford it. I will be driving my SUV full of cats, eight to be exact. I know I am going to have to put them in carriers or cages, but I can't see driving 16 to 18 hours without them on some type of relaxer. Also, how do I deal with the bathroom issue, and is that much time in a carrier OK? I really need some advice. -- D.C., via e-mail

A: If you were traveling with just one or two cats, I'd suggest putting each in a carrier large enough to hold a cat, a litter box and food and water dishes. Given the number of cats, the tight budget and the limited space inside even the largest SUV, you're going to have to improvise some. Use a small cardboard carrier for each cat (the kind they send cats home in at the shelters), and set up a larger cage for refreshment and potty breaks. Each cat (or pair of cats, if they get along well enough) should have a turn in the larger cage at least a couple times a day.

Your cats should be wearing harnesses with ID attached, and remember never to take a cat out of a carrier without putting a leash on first. An angry or frightened cat is very difficult to hold on to, and you may need that leash to keep a cat from bolting for good.

As for tranquilizers for the cats, talk to your veterinarian. I'm guessing most of your cats, while not enjoying the trip, will tolerate it well enough for the couple of days it will take you to get where you're going. But among your eight cats, there likely will be at least one so completely unhinged by any change in routine that a tranquilizer would be a very good idea, indeed.

Q: When I got married, my wife came with a much-beloved Amazon parrot. I will say without any hesitation that this is not a pet I would have chosen for myself, but my wife was absolutely clear on the subject that she and the bird were a package deal. We've been married almost two years now, and we've all three had to make adjustments, but things are generally OK. One of the things that still bothers me, though, is the amount of food this bird wastes. I think for every 5-pound bag of pricey parrot food we get from the vet's office, the bird eats 2 pounds and throws the rest away. He also gets "people food" and throws most of that away, too.

My wife says this is the way parrots are, and we can't "recycle" the clean bits back into his bowl. I say it would be nice if he'd eat the food we pay for. Can you help? -- R.B., via e-mail

A: Your wife's right: Parrots waste a lot of food and that's just the way it is. In the wild, this is part of the plan: When birds scatter the remains of their meals, they're also scattering seeds far and wide.

Additionally, in a caged environment the food is usually dumped into the dropping tray, "recycling" just isn't safe. For health and sanitary reasons, cage papers should be changed and all food should be picked up and thrown out at least once daily, and the dishes thoroughly cleaned and refilled.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600