Before I write one word of advice about buying a purebred puppy, I have to stress that for most people, finding even the most reputable breeder isn't the only path to finding a wonderful family pet.

Shelter and rescue groups offer puppies and adult dogs galore, purebreds and mixes both. Many dogs are discarded for the flimsiest of reasons and are ready to slip into a new home with little in the way of adjustment. Many others just need a fresh start and a little training. These animals deserve a chance, and the rewards of owning one of them are many. Good dog, good price and a good feeling in your heart -- this is why three of my four dogs are "recycled rovers."

But I'm enough of a realist to know that there will always be those who have their heart set on a purebred puppy. They're after a particular look, a particular personality, or they insist on raising a dog on their own. Others are open to the idea of a shelter dog, but have found out that although large breeds such as Labradors are plentiful in shelters, if you want a small purebred, especially less common ones, you're probably going to have to buy a puppy.

If you're buying a purebred puppy, you need to find a reputable breeder. I simply can't stress this enough. If you don't make that effort, you may end up dealing with expensive health problems caused by poor breeding and vexing behavior problems brought on by a lack of socialization and by unsanitary kennel conditions. (Puppies raised in their own filth, for example, are notoriously difficult to house-train.)

It takes time to find a good breeder, and more time until she'll have a puppy for you. Reputable breeders do not churn out litters to make money: They plan their pairings carefully, not all that frequently and often have waiting lists for their puppies. They generally don't advertise, and can be found primarily by word of mouth.

Start by finding contact information on the national club for your breed, either by calling the American Kennel Club (919-233-9767) or visiting the Web site at www.akc.org. Then call, write or e-mail and ask for the club's information packet and for referral to a breeder in your region. Once you have some names and the numbers, start networking. If one breeder doesn't have puppies, ask for the names of those who do.

When you find a breeder, ask lots of questions, and expect to be grilled in return. It's nothing personal: Reputable breeders care about their dogs and want them to go the best homes possible. Plus, they will always take back a dog they bred, no matter the circumstances, so they'd much rather get it right the first time when it comes to placing a pet.

Ask the breeder to tell you about the breed, the good and the bad both, and what she sees as the strengths and weaknesses in the dogs she herself breeds. Ask about congenital defects in the breed (almost all have them), health certifications (the parents must have them), a regimen of puppy socialization and contracts that spell out what happens if the puppy you buy ends up with health problems.

Once all the questions have been asked and answered to the satisfaction of all and the contracts and check are signed, you'll be heading home with what you hoped for most: a healthy, well-socialized puppy with the promise of turning into a wonderful companion -- and a reputable breeder who'll be there to answer the rest of your questions for the life of your dog.

PETS ON THE WEB

Dr. P's Dog Training (www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/dog.htm) is one of the oldest resources on the Web for information on training and behavior, and it's still one of the best. Dr. P is Mark Plonsky, a professor of psychology at the University of Wisconsin, Stevens Point, who has a professional interest in how animals learn and a personal interest in helping others teach their dogs to be better behaved. The site is simple and easy-to-navigate, but has a depth of information that'll provide interesting reading for a long time.

THE SCOOP

Grinding nails can be less painful and stressful to pets than clipping them. I've used a Dremel cordless rotary tool for years on those pets (the parrot and one of the dogs) who absolutely hate to have nail clippers anywhere near them. (The other dogs are just fine with clipping.)

Dremel has now come out with a rotary tool expressly designed for use with pets. The Dremel Pet Nail Grooming Kit (suggested retail: $30) is small, lightweight and cordless, running on four AA batteries and coming with four extra sanding drums and directions. If you already have a cordless Dremel, I wouldn't recommend adding this one just for grinding pet nails, but if you want a rotary tool for handling this grooming task alone, the Pet Nail Kit will fit the bill.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I will be moving from Connecticut to Georgia in June. I am not hiring movers or flying by plane because I can't afford it. I will be driving my SUV full of cats, eight to be exact. I know I am going to have to put them in carriers or cages, but I can't see driving 16 to 18 hours without them on some type of relaxer. Also, how do I deal with the bathroom issue, and is that much time in a carrier OK? I really need some advice. -- D.C., via e-mail

A: If you were traveling with just one or two cats, I'd suggest putting each in a carrier large enough to hold a cat, a litter box and food and water dishes. Given the number of cats, the tight budget and the limited space inside even the largest SUV, you're going to have to improvise some. Use a small cardboard carrier for each cat (the kind they send cats home in at the shelters), and set up a larger cage for refreshment and potty breaks. Each cat (or pair of cats, if they get along well enough) should have a turn in the larger cage at least a couple times a day.

Your cats should be wearing harnesses with ID attached, and remember never to take a cat out of a carrier without putting a leash on first. An angry or frightened cat is very difficult to hold on to, and you may need that leash to keep a cat from bolting for good.

As for tranquilizers for the cats, talk to your veterinarian. I'm guessing most of your cats, while not enjoying the trip, will tolerate it well enough for the couple of days it will take you to get where you're going. But among your eight cats, there likely will be at least one so completely unhinged by any change in routine that a tranquilizer would be a very good idea, indeed.

Q: When I got married, my wife came with a much-beloved Amazon parrot. I will say without any hesitation that this is not a pet I would have chosen for myself, but my wife was absolutely clear on the subject that she and the bird were a package deal. We've been married almost two years now, and we've all three had to make adjustments, but things are generally OK. One of the things that still bothers me, though, is the amount of food this bird wastes. I think for every 5-pound bag of pricey parrot food we get from the vet's office, the bird eats 2 pounds and throws the rest away. He also gets "people food" and throws most of that away, too.

My wife says this is the way parrots are, and we can't "recycle" the clean bits back into his bowl. I say it would be nice if he'd eat the food we pay for. Can you help? -- R.B., via e-mail

A: Your wife's right: Parrots waste a lot of food and that's just the way it is. In the wild, this is part of the plan: When birds scatter the remains of their meals, they're also scattering seeds far and wide.

Additionally, in a caged environment the food is usually dumped into the dropping tray, "recycling" just isn't safe. For health and sanitary reasons, cage papers should be changed and all food should be picked up and thrown out at least once daily, and the dishes thoroughly cleaned and refilled.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you want to buy a purebred puppy, there's nothing more important than finding a reputable breeder.

That's because getting a dog from a good breeder is the best way to increase the likelihood that the puppy you bring home will become the healthy, well-mannered pet you want. Purebred puppies who are not from good breeders are more likely to have behavior problems from being raised improperly, in addition to genetic health problems. These pups can cost you a fortune and break your heart.

Maybe I believe too much in the essential goodness of human nature -- or the goodness of those who love dogs -- but I think the majority of "bad" breeders are not uncaring -- they're simply uninformed as to what it takes to be a reputable breeder. They want a litter "so the kids can see," or because "puppies are fun," or because they heard that breeding dogs is an easy way to make a little money. (Done wrong, it's a great way to lose money!)

Here are some warning signs to help you avoid poor breeder:

-- Ignorance or denial of genetic defects. Almost every breed has some problems, and some of the most common ones (such as hip dysplasia) can cause great pain and cost big bucks to manage. A breeder who isn't aware of congenital defects won't be screening her dogs in hopes of eliminating these common health problems.

-- No involvement in dog sports. Every purebred dog doesn't have to have titles before he or she is bred, but you improve the odds of getting a high-quality purebred if you buy from someone involved in competing with their dogs. The point of a dog show, in fact, is to evaluate breeding stock.

-- Not letting you observe the litter, meet the mother or other dogs, or see where the puppies were raised. Healthy, well-mannered adults and a clean, well-run home are a breeder's best testimonial. If a person doesn't want you to see anything except the puppy she's trying to sell, you ought to be wondering why. Don't worry if the dad's not there: Reputable breeders often travel great distances (or pay for costly artificial insemination) to find the best match for their females.

-- No documentation, no sales contract. If the purebred puppy is represented as being eligible for registration with an organization such as the American Kennel Club, then registration papers should be available at the time of purchase. So too should documentation backing up health claims on the parents.

A sales contract spelling out the rights and responsibilities of both parties should also be part of the deal. Such a document provides you with recourse should the puppy not turn out as promised, especially when it comes to health problems.

-- Breeder doesn't understand the importance of socialization. Puppies need to constantly be handled by people and introduced to new sights, sounds and smells to make good pets. They need to spend time with their mothers, and even more time with their littermates. Someone who can't explain what they've done to socialize their puppies, who doesn't understand why socialization is important, or who tries to sell a puppy less than 7 weeks old probably doesn't understand enough about puppy-raising to be breeding dogs.

It's all about putting the odds in your favor. If you want a purebred puppy, take the time to find a reputable breeder and you'll be more likely to end up with a healthy, well-mannered pet. By avoiding less-than-reputable breeders, you'll also be encouraging people who shouldn't be breeding dogs to either clean up their acts or get out of the business.

Next week: How to find a good breeder.

PETS ON THE WEB

J. Bradley Materick loves the outdoors, and he loves animals. Starting this month, he's going to combine his two passions, hiking the 2,650-mile length of the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada with his dog, Banner, to raise awareness of, and money for, homeless pets. His PCT for Pets Web site (www.pctforpets.org) will track the journey, which will take a little more than six months. Materick is asking for per-mile donations, which can be earmarked for local shelters or for the American SPCA in New York City. Banner, named after a peak along the trail, is a former homeless dog from a shelter in upstate New York.

THE SCOOP

This is the time of year when I'll hear from people who think their young female cats are sick or injured, because of the way they're rolling around, yowling as if in pain. They want to know: Should we take her to the veterinarian?

The answer is a resounding "yes." These yowling cats aren't injured, but rather are in heat, and will soon be pregnant if steps aren't taken. If you have a cat who hasn't been altered, get it done right away. Don't add to the coming kitten crisis.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Our community has recently become embroiled in a debate about how many dogs are too many for one person to handle. In particular, one dog walker takes eight animals to a nearby run. He then sits and reads the paper while the dogs run loose in the small area. Some people feel that eight is too many pooches for one person to handle responsibly. Other people feel that eight dogs are fine. (Many of these people either use this dog walker or have multiple dogs themselves.) What do you think? -- A.A., via e-mail

A: Eight is too many, especially for a person who apparently wouldn't pay much attention even if he had brought only one dog into the park.

Everyone who takes a pet into a dog park or run needs to be responsible for the behavior of that animal, watching to be sure the dog is neither bully nor victim, and that no one gets hurt. The dog park is not for catching up on one's reading, but rather for safely exercising and socializing a dog. One dog is hard enough to monitor properly; eight would be impossible.

Further, dogs who are together on a regular basis (such as those who are exercised by the same dog walker every day) are more likely to form a "street gang," if you will, and pick on those animals who aren't in their social circle. Dog packs have a different dynamic than individual dogs, and having a regular pack frequent the run could be a dangerous situation indeed.

To operate safely, dog parks need good basic rules, an active community to police through peer pressure and plenty of common sense. Your dog park needs to review its rules, not to ban dog-walking professionals from using the facilities but rather to insist that they behave in ways that are safe for all involved.

Q: I have a 6-year-old Rottweiler who was neutered a few months ago because of prostrate problems. I want to keep him from gaining weight. He gets 2 1/2 cups of dry food and one 16-ounce can of wet food daily. He is not as active as he once was. Do you have any suggestions? -- F.D., via e-mail

A: Is he putting on weight now? Is he healthy? If he's fine, I wouldn't change a thing. If he is gaining weight, I'd increase his activity level with a daily walk or a half-hour's worth of fetch, and replace half of his daily canned food ration with an equal amount of green beans. The beans add fiber to make a dog feel full, but do not add calories to put on the weight. (Canned pumpkin works well, too.)

Obesity is becoming as common a problem in pets as it is in people, and for the same reasons: too much food and not enough exercise. Fat pets suffer from a reduced quality of life and from serious health problems as well. The Veterinary Pet Insurance company recently released a survey revealing that obesity-related insurance claims are increasing: Heart-attack claims alone have risen an astonishing 47 percent in the last two years.

Keeping your dog at optimum weight is a good preventive-care measure, as is neutering, and I commend you for taking such good care of your dog. Aside from the not-insignificant benefits of helping to combat pet overpopulation (and there are plenty of Rotties in the shelters these days), neutering protects your pet from some cancers, may prevent accidents caused by roaming or aggression, and makes the animals calmer and easier to live with.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

When you tell someone that you, as a supposedly mature, sane adult, have two rats as pets, you'll generally get one of two responses: revulsion, followed by a questioning of said supposed sanity, or delight, from those who once had rats as pets (usually when they were young) and still remember how much fun they are.

Since I adopted a pair of domestic rats (Ava and Zoe) from a rescue group last fall, I've experienced both responses countless times, the former far more than the latter.

The reaction of disgust is unfortunate, for rats can be entertaining, affectionate and clever pets. They're excellent first pets for children, great sole pets for adults who might prefer a dog but are in "no pets" housing, and easy-care pets for those who aren't home much or don't have the desire to clean up after a dog, cat or bird.

Still not convinced? Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits with an open mind:

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily, and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders. They like people!

The older, larger and (it must be said) homelier of my two rats is Zoe, who makes up for her mud-fence appearance with an outgoing personality. She loves to be petted and likes to sleep in the hood of my sweatshirt when I'm writing.

Because rats are so social, if you're going to get one, you ought to get two so they can keep each other company.

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform. With little effort, I've trained Zoe to perform a couple of simple tricks, and she has picked up on the cues that let her know mealtime is here faster than any dog I've ever known.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder, and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are cute. Really. Think sleek, shiny fur, dark, glossy eyes and cute little ears. You say it's the tail that gets to you? Give a rat a break. If he just had a fluffy tail he'd be a squirrel, and people would give him nuts in the park.

Did you know that rats come in oodles of colors and coat patterns? Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked or patched.

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a larger pet, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. (Mine live in a three-story ferret cage.) Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish, water bottle and some toys. (These can be freebies, such as the leftover core of a paper-towel roll, or small untreated blocks of wood.)

Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them, and will love you if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. As with all small pets, cage changes must be frequent, otherwise the smell will become unpleasant, to you and your pets both.

Oh, and there's also those skinny, hairless tails. Even I had a problem with them at first. But these days, I'm finding Ava and Zoe so personable I hardly notice their tails at all.

THE SCOOP

Your dog shouldn't be given unsupervised access to tennis balls, no matter how nuts he is for them. Tennis balls aren't designed to stand up to chewing, and the pieces can easily be swallowed. Even worse, some dogs have managed to compress the balls and then get them lodged in the back of their throats, cutting off the air supply.

Tennis balls are wonderful for retrieving games, however, especially when used with a "flinger." These nifty devices allow you to avoid touching a slimed tennis ball and help you to throw farther so your dog will get more exercise. Look for them in pet-supply stores, catalogs and on Web sites.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Kanab, Utah-based Greyhound Gang's well-designed Web site (www.greyhoundgang.com) offers layer upon layer of solid information about adopting and living with these wonderful dogs. The site also offers links to other "greyt" sites, information on the annual Greyhound Gathering every spring in Kanab, and even a place to buy low-priced glucosamine (which eases canine arthritis), handsome T-shirts and other gear, with proceeds going to the Greyhound Gang's rescue-and-placement program.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband and I have been considering getting a family dog, a German shepherd. We have two boys, ages 3 and 1. What is the appropriate age for kids to help handle the responsibility of a dog? We want our older son to be able to help with and appreciate the dog. -- R.S., via e-mail

A: Often when a child is asked or initially volunteers to take sole responsibility for a pet, good intentions don't pan out. The parent starts nagging or forcing the child to take care of the pet, or the parent assumes responsibility along with a hearty dose of resentment toward the animal, or the pet will be neglected or given away. None of these is a good result, for the pet, parent or child.

That's why "help" is such an important word to remember, and I'm so glad to see it in your note. While children should help with the care of any family pet, the final responsibility for the welfare of the animal must be accepted by the adults from the very beginning. Pets always lose, one way or the other, when they're in the middle of a parent-child tug of war.

I have always thought responsibility is among the least important of the lessons a pet can teach a child. Most important, in my book, is the idea that love can be unconditional and that confidences can be kept. How many secrets I told my cat and dog while growing up I cannot imagine, but it felt as good to tell them as it did to know that no matter what mistakes I made, my pets would always love me. (Heck, that still feels good!)

Although the "right" age depends very much on the child, my experience is that children really start to appreciate (and often demand) a dog when they're in the age range of 8 to 10. They're capable of contributing to the care of the animals at that age, too.

Instead of getting a puppy, which is too much work for many busy families, please consider an adult dog. If you look carefully, you should be able to adopt a dog from a shelter or rescue group, a calm, well-mannered animal companion who will be a wonderful addition to your family with many special lessons to teach your boys.

Q: Our cat won't drink water from a bowl, but rather insists by meowing loudly that we open the tap for her. We realize she has trained us, and we don't mind "serving" her. But we wonder if other cats share her fetish for fresh water. -- W.L., via e-mail

A: Drinking running water is a good survival strategy for wild cats, since running water is likely to be healthier than standing water. This sensible and ancestral preference is probably why some pampered pet cats still prefer their water moving.

And it is a relatively common preference. When I was growing up, one of my cats would use his paw to tap the handle in the laundry room, just enough to get a trickle to drink.

Since you can't be at hand to turn on the tap every time your cat is thirsty, you might think about investing in a continuous-flow feline drinking fountain. The fountains, which can be found in pet-supply catalogs, on Web sites and in the back of cat magazines, keep available a steady supply of water for your cat, recycling and filtering the liquid to make it seem fresh.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600