When you tell someone that you, as a supposedly mature, sane adult, have two rats as pets, you'll generally get one of two responses: revulsion, followed by a questioning of said supposed sanity, or delight, from those who once had rats as pets (usually when they were young) and still remember how much fun they are.

Since I adopted a pair of domestic rats (Ava and Zoe) from a rescue group last fall, I've experienced both responses countless times, the former far more than the latter.

The reaction of disgust is unfortunate, for rats can be entertaining, affectionate and clever pets. They're excellent first pets for children, great sole pets for adults who might prefer a dog but are in "no pets" housing, and easy-care pets for those who aren't home much or don't have the desire to clean up after a dog, cat or bird.

Still not convinced? Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits with an open mind:

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily, and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders. They like people!

The older, larger and (it must be said) homelier of my two rats is Zoe, who makes up for her mud-fence appearance with an outgoing personality. She loves to be petted and likes to sleep in the hood of my sweatshirt when I'm writing.

Because rats are so social, if you're going to get one, you ought to get two so they can keep each other company.

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform. With little effort, I've trained Zoe to perform a couple of simple tricks, and she has picked up on the cues that let her know mealtime is here faster than any dog I've ever known.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder, and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are cute. Really. Think sleek, shiny fur, dark, glossy eyes and cute little ears. You say it's the tail that gets to you? Give a rat a break. If he just had a fluffy tail he'd be a squirrel, and people would give him nuts in the park.

Did you know that rats come in oodles of colors and coat patterns? Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked or patched.

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a larger pet, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. (Mine live in a three-story ferret cage.) Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish, water bottle and some toys. (These can be freebies, such as the leftover core of a paper-towel roll, or small untreated blocks of wood.)

Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them, and will love you if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. As with all small pets, cage changes must be frequent, otherwise the smell will become unpleasant, to you and your pets both.

Oh, and there's also those skinny, hairless tails. Even I had a problem with them at first. But these days, I'm finding Ava and Zoe so personable I hardly notice their tails at all.

THE SCOOP

Your dog shouldn't be given unsupervised access to tennis balls, no matter how nuts he is for them. Tennis balls aren't designed to stand up to chewing, and the pieces can easily be swallowed. Even worse, some dogs have managed to compress the balls and then get them lodged in the back of their throats, cutting off the air supply.

Tennis balls are wonderful for retrieving games, however, especially when used with a "flinger." These nifty devices allow you to avoid touching a slimed tennis ball and help you to throw farther so your dog will get more exercise. Look for them in pet-supply stores, catalogs and on Web sites.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Kanab, Utah-based Greyhound Gang's well-designed Web site (www.greyhoundgang.com) offers layer upon layer of solid information about adopting and living with these wonderful dogs. The site also offers links to other "greyt" sites, information on the annual Greyhound Gathering every spring in Kanab, and even a place to buy low-priced glucosamine (which eases canine arthritis), handsome T-shirts and other gear, with proceeds going to the Greyhound Gang's rescue-and-placement program.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband and I have been considering getting a family dog, a German shepherd. We have two boys, ages 3 and 1. What is the appropriate age for kids to help handle the responsibility of a dog? We want our older son to be able to help with and appreciate the dog. -- R.S., via e-mail

A: Often when a child is asked or initially volunteers to take sole responsibility for a pet, good intentions don't pan out. The parent starts nagging or forcing the child to take care of the pet, or the parent assumes responsibility along with a hearty dose of resentment toward the animal, or the pet will be neglected or given away. None of these is a good result, for the pet, parent or child.

That's why "help" is such an important word to remember, and I'm so glad to see it in your note. While children should help with the care of any family pet, the final responsibility for the welfare of the animal must be accepted by the adults from the very beginning. Pets always lose, one way or the other, when they're in the middle of a parent-child tug of war.

I have always thought responsibility is among the least important of the lessons a pet can teach a child. Most important, in my book, is the idea that love can be unconditional and that confidences can be kept. How many secrets I told my cat and dog while growing up I cannot imagine, but it felt as good to tell them as it did to know that no matter what mistakes I made, my pets would always love me. (Heck, that still feels good!)

Although the "right" age depends very much on the child, my experience is that children really start to appreciate (and often demand) a dog when they're in the age range of 8 to 10. They're capable of contributing to the care of the animals at that age, too.

Instead of getting a puppy, which is too much work for many busy families, please consider an adult dog. If you look carefully, you should be able to adopt a dog from a shelter or rescue group, a calm, well-mannered animal companion who will be a wonderful addition to your family with many special lessons to teach your boys.

Q: Our cat won't drink water from a bowl, but rather insists by meowing loudly that we open the tap for her. We realize she has trained us, and we don't mind "serving" her. But we wonder if other cats share her fetish for fresh water. -- W.L., via e-mail

A: Drinking running water is a good survival strategy for wild cats, since running water is likely to be healthier than standing water. This sensible and ancestral preference is probably why some pampered pet cats still prefer their water moving.

And it is a relatively common preference. When I was growing up, one of my cats would use his paw to tap the handle in the laundry room, just enough to get a trickle to drink.

Since you can't be at hand to turn on the tap every time your cat is thirsty, you might think about investing in a continuous-flow feline drinking fountain. The fountains, which can be found in pet-supply catalogs, on Web sites and in the back of cat magazines, keep available a steady supply of water for your cat, recycling and filtering the liquid to make it seem fresh.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A 10-year-old cat who has always been pretty relaxed suddenly starts zooming around the house every day.

A 4-year-old golden retriever who has been always been a sweetheart suddenly starts snapping when her ear is touched.

A 7-year-old cat suddenly starts soiling the rugs regularly, even though there has been no change in the location, filler or cleanliness of the litter box.

Will training fix these problems? Probably not, because at their root, chances are they're medical in nature.

People often become frustrated or even frightened by a sudden change in their pets' behavior. Then they'll look for one simple training tip that will bring back the problem-free relationship they had with their animal companions. But sometimes what pet lovers assume is a behavioral problem really isn't -- it's a medical problem, one that will be resolved only with proper diagnosis and treatment.

That zooming cat? There's a pretty good chance she has a condition called hyperthyroidism, in which the thyroid gland overproduces, and in so doing prompts behavior changes in a cat whose body is suddenly supercharged.

That snappy retriever? A painful ear infection may be the culprit. The fact that she's snapping, not biting, when petted despite her extreme pain speaks volumes about her good temperament.

And what about the cat whose perfect potty habits are suddenly gone? His case could have any number of medical causes behind it, from an infection or kidney disease to diabetes.

With good medical care, all three of these pets will likely be made healthy again, and should return to their previous patterns of good behavior. Cases such as these make clear why the first rule of solving any behavior problem is to make sure that it's not a medical problem. This is especially true if the behavior change is sudden.

If you start trying to retrain a pet who's sick, not only will you get nowhere but you'll also delay the resolution of a condition that may be causing your pet discomfort or pain.

It's important to know what's normal for your pet, and to be looking for small changes in appearance or behavior that could be the early signs of illness, even before they prompt annoying behavior problems. It's important to always keep an eye on your pet's condition, for example, being careful to note a loss in weight, a newfound dullness to his coat or a change in energy levels.

Changes in eating and elimination habits are also worthy of investigation, as are subtle shifts in temperament -- like a pet who seems a little more aloof, or more clingy.

Double your vigilance when your pet crosses into the senior years. Many of the problems pet lovers assume are just part of the aging process -- stiff joints or absentmindedness -- can be treated, with both traditional and alternative methods available. Such treatments can vastly improve your aging pet's quality of life, and yours as well, since you won't be dealing with the accompanying behavior problems.

Don't wait until the change in your pet escalates to a point where he is an annoyance -- get your pet the help that's needed now. You may be able to resolve any health problems before they change your pet's behavior for the worse.

THE SCOOP

While sometimes pets eat or roll in things that make the animals temporarily difficult to be around, if you're constantly wincing at your pet's objectionable odor, you need to make an appointment with your veterinarian. Bad breath can be a sign of rotting teeth or gums, and smelly ears are often a result of infections. An overall bad smell may indicate skin problems.

Don't ignore these warning signs. Disease can make your pet miserable and shorten his life. Stinky pets aren't normal. Proper diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian can improve your pet's quality of life -- and your life, as well, by keeping your pet sweet-smelling.

PETS ON THE WEB

You know a breed has arrived when it turns up on a top TV show, as the little Cavalier King Charles spaniel did recently on HBO's "Sex in the City." These days, when I take my 2-year-old Cavalier, Chase, out in public, I'm asked two questions right away: "Can I pet him?" and "Where can I get one like him?" The answer to the first is always "yes," but the second's a little harder to help with.

This is one breed that comes with a big "caution" sign, because of a life-threatening congenital heart condition that's pervasive in these sweet-natured toy spaniels. This condition has killed many of these dogs in their prime. And while with all breeds it's important to buy from a reputable breeder, it's especially important with these dogs. Required reading can be found on the CKCS Club -- USA Web site (www.ckcsc.org) and the American CKCS Club (www.ackcsc.org).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I wholeheartedly agree with your recent article on outside dogs and hope that people take your advice not to get a dog if it is not going to be part of the family. How sad it is to think of all the lonely dogs outside alone year after year.

Could you mention one more reason not to abandon a dog to the outdoors? In addition to all the points you made, these dogs are probably denied prompt and proper medical care because their owners do not notice their ailments. -- K.P.H., via e-mail

A: As happens every time I write about a controversial topic, I got a lot of mail on this column, from both sides. Those people who keep their pets outside were predictably angry to have anyone question the care of their dogs.

Happily for the dogs of the world, the numbers of letters from people who agree that dogs are not happy living their lives completely alone outside were much in the majority. Their numbers were bolstered by people who agree for a different reason -- they live near outdoor dogs, and have to listen to the barking of these neglected pets day and night.

Humane societies, behaviorists and other experts have long agreed that making a dog part of the family makes them not only happier, but also less likely to be a nuisance or a danger.

And yes, I neglected to mention your point, that dogs who live completely outdoor lives may not get the attention they need when it comes to medical care. That's because it can be difficult to spot the sometimes subtle signs of early illness in an animal who isn't living underfoot.

Q. I had always been told that yellow spots in the yard were caused by the female dogs. Now that I have only males, I find that is not correct.

Is there a way to prevent these spots, something to add to a dog's food or water? I'm looking forward to your answer, and to some greener grass. -- J.M., Carmichael, Calif., via e-mail

Female dogs take the rap for destroying lawns because they are more likely to release a large quantity of urine in a single spot, while the males are more likely to spread theirs in smaller amounts on vertical surfaces such as trees and shrubs. But as you've found out, even male dogs can release enough urine to trash a lawn.

Pet-supply catalogs carry food additives that are advertised to minimize the damage. There are also many folk remedies floating about, suggesting the addition of substances intended to change the nature or the volume of the urine produced.

I hesitate to recommend any additives to a pet's food or water, however. First, the results seem to be pretty mixed, at best, and second, I don't like to suggest adding anything to a pet's diet that's not being put there for the good of the animal. (I'm not saying the additives are dangerous, mind you, but that I don't like adding things to a pet's food unless it's going to be beneficial for them, not the lawn.)

The best solution is to set aside a less-visible part of your yard for your dogs to relieve themselves in. If that's not possible, you should dilute the urine by immediately flushing the area where your dogs have urinated with a couple gallons of water from the hose. This should lessen the fertilizing effect of the urine and help keep your lawn from spotting up.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, MO 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every year as spring approaches, shelters and rescue groups face a daunting challenge: Find homes for the cats before the kittens arrive.

That's because once kitten season starts, even the sweetest, handsomest and most well-mannered cats may run out of time before anyone recognizes them for the wonderful companions they are and adopt them.

The sole reason: Cats just aren't as cute as kittens. Being overlooked at the shelter is bad news for the cats, of course, but it's also unfortunate for many people who don't realize that an adult cat may, in many cases, be a better choice than a kitten. Sure, kittens are cute, but they also can be a bit of a trial as they grow up. They need extra time, extra training and extra tolerance for all those crazy things that kittens do.

An adult cat can slide quickly into your life. You know pretty well what you're getting with a grown cat -- activity level, sociability, health, etc. Given time in a loving environment, a grown cat forms just as tight a bond with his new people as any kitten can.

With adult cats, knowing a little of the animal's background is important, especially if your family has other pets, or children. (A cat who has never experienced them may have a more difficult time adjusting to a new family that includes either or both.) You can ask questions directly about the cat's background if you're adopting from the original owner. And most shelters or rescue groups also try to provide some basic background information, which they ask of the people giving up their pets.

What if the information isn't flattering to the cat? For example, what if he became available for adoption because of his failure to use a litter box? Give the cat the benefit of the doubt, if you have the time and patience to work on solving the problem. And remember, too, that you don't know the contributing factors. Maybe the litter box was never cleaned or was left in a spot that was convenient for the owner but disconcerting for the cat.

If at all possible, take each adult cat you're considering away from the caging area of the adoption center. Sit down with the animal in your lap, alone in a quiet place, and try to get a feel for the cat as an individual. Shelters are stressful places, so the cat may need a few quiet minutes to collect herself. A calm, confident and outgoing cat will respond pretty readily to your attention, relaxing in your lap, pushing for strokes and purring.

No matter how promising the initial meeting, remember that cats don't react well to change, so be prepared to give your new pet time to adjust to new surroundings once you take her home. Experts advise starting out your cat in a small, enclosed area -- a spare bathroom or small bedroom equipped with food and water, litter box, toys and a scratching post. A few days of quiet seclusion with frequent visits from you will relax your new pet and re-establish good litter-box habits.

If you're even considering bringing a pet into your life, please don't wait for kitten season -- take the plunge now. This is the time of year when adult cats in shelters get to shine a little extra, and there are enough of them around to give you a chance to bring home a pet you'll adore for years to come.

PETS ON THE WEB

Adult cats aren't the only shelter pets facing some spring deadlines -- adult rabbits are under pressure, too. That's because spring means Easter, a time when baby rabbits show up in pet stores, advertised as the perfect holiday gift for children. Later, many of these darling babies will end up in the shelter when their novelty wanes, adding to the overcrowding.

The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) has named February "Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month," with plenty of information on these pets -- which contrary to popular belief, are better suited for adults than to children -- at one of the best pet Web sites around.

THE SCOOP

My friend Peg has a houseful of pets and children, as well as a near-religious devotion to a single kind of household cleaner: bleach. Her faith is justified, for this cleaning staple can't be beat when it comes to keeping animal-related objects and surfaces clean. Cages, perches, litter boxes, nonporous toys and more can be cleaned with bleach -- diluted a half-cup to a gallon of water -- then rinsed with clear water and left to air dry. Be sure to use bleach and all household cleaners far away from pets (especially birds, who have very sensitive respiratory systems) and in a well-ventilated area.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We adopted a 4-year-old female Boston terrier last August, and we're having a hard time getting her to eat. I've changed her dog-food brand three times, hoping to find something she would enjoy enough to want to eat. (I know I'm not supposed to change foods, but I'm desperate.)

If I put dry food in her bowl, she'll smell it and walk away. If I take it out of her bowl and put a few kibbles at a time on the floor she'll eat it all. Sometimes she'll eat late at night from a dish that has been there since morning, but other times she won't eat at all. She will eat treats and human food. Can you help? -- M.T., via e-mail

A: The first step is to make sure your dog has no health issues that may be contributing to this problem, so please take her to your veterinarian for a checkup. If all checks out, you must then start to retrain her to eat what she's given, when she's given it.

Rule No. 1: No treats and no human food. Absolutely, positively none. What you've done, you see, is teach your dog that if she turns up her nose at a bowl of perfectly fine dry food, you'll hand-feed it to her a kibble at a time. And if she turns up her nose at that, she'll get something even yummier. No wonder she's picky!

Rule No. 2: No free-feeding. She will now eat two meals a day, one in the morning and one at night. Absolutely no food in between. Water, of course, should be available at all times.

Rule No. 3: One half-hour for meals, no more, no less. Put her dish down in an area with few distractions, such as a laundry room with a baby gate across the opening. Set a timer for 30 minutes. Whatever she hasn't eaten at the end of that time goes back in the bag until her next scheduled meal.

It will not hurt her if she misses a couple of meals, or goes a couple of days without eating -- assuming, of course, that she is healthy to begin with. She won't miss many meals before her hunger will have her eating what you set in front of her, on a regular basis.

During this retraining phase I would stick to one brand of food. Once your dog starts eating regularly you can change brands, but introduce the change gradually. I'm convinced that the idea that a dog should be on a single brand for life was the creation of some clever chap in a pet-food company's advertising department.

Q: I have a 3-year-old cat who really took a liking to the tinsel on the Christmas tree this year. I imagine that it wouldn't be good for him, but I'm curious to what extent. And what is it that attracts them to devour it, not just play with it because it sparkles? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: You're lucky you didn't end up with a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic, or a dead cat. Tinsel, string and other such objects are both incredibly appealing to cats -- and incredibly dangerous.

The appeal is based on their hunting instincts. As any cat lover knows, cats love to follow motion, pouncing on toys as if they were prey. When string and similar substances are eaten, however, they can bind up in their intestines and often must be surgically removed.

Next year, leave the tinsel off your tree, or put such holiday decorations in an area off-limits to your cat. In the meantime, find a fishing-pole type toy for you to play with your cat. Any cat who's fascinated by tinsel will surely flip for supervised play with a toy of this type.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600