A 10-year-old cat who has always been pretty relaxed suddenly starts zooming around the house every day.

A 4-year-old golden retriever who has been always been a sweetheart suddenly starts snapping when her ear is touched.

A 7-year-old cat suddenly starts soiling the rugs regularly, even though there has been no change in the location, filler or cleanliness of the litter box.

Will training fix these problems? Probably not, because at their root, chances are they're medical in nature.

People often become frustrated or even frightened by a sudden change in their pets' behavior. Then they'll look for one simple training tip that will bring back the problem-free relationship they had with their animal companions. But sometimes what pet lovers assume is a behavioral problem really isn't -- it's a medical problem, one that will be resolved only with proper diagnosis and treatment.

That zooming cat? There's a pretty good chance she has a condition called hyperthyroidism, in which the thyroid gland overproduces, and in so doing prompts behavior changes in a cat whose body is suddenly supercharged.

That snappy retriever? A painful ear infection may be the culprit. The fact that she's snapping, not biting, when petted despite her extreme pain speaks volumes about her good temperament.

And what about the cat whose perfect potty habits are suddenly gone? His case could have any number of medical causes behind it, from an infection or kidney disease to diabetes.

With good medical care, all three of these pets will likely be made healthy again, and should return to their previous patterns of good behavior. Cases such as these make clear why the first rule of solving any behavior problem is to make sure that it's not a medical problem. This is especially true if the behavior change is sudden.

If you start trying to retrain a pet who's sick, not only will you get nowhere but you'll also delay the resolution of a condition that may be causing your pet discomfort or pain.

It's important to know what's normal for your pet, and to be looking for small changes in appearance or behavior that could be the early signs of illness, even before they prompt annoying behavior problems. It's important to always keep an eye on your pet's condition, for example, being careful to note a loss in weight, a newfound dullness to his coat or a change in energy levels.

Changes in eating and elimination habits are also worthy of investigation, as are subtle shifts in temperament -- like a pet who seems a little more aloof, or more clingy.

Double your vigilance when your pet crosses into the senior years. Many of the problems pet lovers assume are just part of the aging process -- stiff joints or absentmindedness -- can be treated, with both traditional and alternative methods available. Such treatments can vastly improve your aging pet's quality of life, and yours as well, since you won't be dealing with the accompanying behavior problems.

Don't wait until the change in your pet escalates to a point where he is an annoyance -- get your pet the help that's needed now. You may be able to resolve any health problems before they change your pet's behavior for the worse.

THE SCOOP

While sometimes pets eat or roll in things that make the animals temporarily difficult to be around, if you're constantly wincing at your pet's objectionable odor, you need to make an appointment with your veterinarian. Bad breath can be a sign of rotting teeth or gums, and smelly ears are often a result of infections. An overall bad smell may indicate skin problems.

Don't ignore these warning signs. Disease can make your pet miserable and shorten his life. Stinky pets aren't normal. Proper diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian can improve your pet's quality of life -- and your life, as well, by keeping your pet sweet-smelling.

PETS ON THE WEB

You know a breed has arrived when it turns up on a top TV show, as the little Cavalier King Charles spaniel did recently on HBO's "Sex in the City." These days, when I take my 2-year-old Cavalier, Chase, out in public, I'm asked two questions right away: "Can I pet him?" and "Where can I get one like him?" The answer to the first is always "yes," but the second's a little harder to help with.

This is one breed that comes with a big "caution" sign, because of a life-threatening congenital heart condition that's pervasive in these sweet-natured toy spaniels. This condition has killed many of these dogs in their prime. And while with all breeds it's important to buy from a reputable breeder, it's especially important with these dogs. Required reading can be found on the CKCS Club -- USA Web site (www.ckcsc.org) and the American CKCS Club (www.ackcsc.org).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I wholeheartedly agree with your recent article on outside dogs and hope that people take your advice not to get a dog if it is not going to be part of the family. How sad it is to think of all the lonely dogs outside alone year after year.

Could you mention one more reason not to abandon a dog to the outdoors? In addition to all the points you made, these dogs are probably denied prompt and proper medical care because their owners do not notice their ailments. -- K.P.H., via e-mail

A: As happens every time I write about a controversial topic, I got a lot of mail on this column, from both sides. Those people who keep their pets outside were predictably angry to have anyone question the care of their dogs.

Happily for the dogs of the world, the numbers of letters from people who agree that dogs are not happy living their lives completely alone outside were much in the majority. Their numbers were bolstered by people who agree for a different reason -- they live near outdoor dogs, and have to listen to the barking of these neglected pets day and night.

Humane societies, behaviorists and other experts have long agreed that making a dog part of the family makes them not only happier, but also less likely to be a nuisance or a danger.

And yes, I neglected to mention your point, that dogs who live completely outdoor lives may not get the attention they need when it comes to medical care. That's because it can be difficult to spot the sometimes subtle signs of early illness in an animal who isn't living underfoot.

Q. I had always been told that yellow spots in the yard were caused by the female dogs. Now that I have only males, I find that is not correct.

Is there a way to prevent these spots, something to add to a dog's food or water? I'm looking forward to your answer, and to some greener grass. -- J.M., Carmichael, Calif., via e-mail

Female dogs take the rap for destroying lawns because they are more likely to release a large quantity of urine in a single spot, while the males are more likely to spread theirs in smaller amounts on vertical surfaces such as trees and shrubs. But as you've found out, even male dogs can release enough urine to trash a lawn.

Pet-supply catalogs carry food additives that are advertised to minimize the damage. There are also many folk remedies floating about, suggesting the addition of substances intended to change the nature or the volume of the urine produced.

I hesitate to recommend any additives to a pet's food or water, however. First, the results seem to be pretty mixed, at best, and second, I don't like to suggest adding anything to a pet's diet that's not being put there for the good of the animal. (I'm not saying the additives are dangerous, mind you, but that I don't like adding things to a pet's food unless it's going to be beneficial for them, not the lawn.)

The best solution is to set aside a less-visible part of your yard for your dogs to relieve themselves in. If that's not possible, you should dilute the urine by immediately flushing the area where your dogs have urinated with a couple gallons of water from the hose. This should lessen the fertilizing effect of the urine and help keep your lawn from spotting up.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, MO 64111; (816) 932-6600

Every year as spring approaches, shelters and rescue groups face a daunting challenge: Find homes for the cats before the kittens arrive.

That's because once kitten season starts, even the sweetest, handsomest and most well-mannered cats may run out of time before anyone recognizes them for the wonderful companions they are and adopt them.

The sole reason: Cats just aren't as cute as kittens. Being overlooked at the shelter is bad news for the cats, of course, but it's also unfortunate for many people who don't realize that an adult cat may, in many cases, be a better choice than a kitten. Sure, kittens are cute, but they also can be a bit of a trial as they grow up. They need extra time, extra training and extra tolerance for all those crazy things that kittens do.

An adult cat can slide quickly into your life. You know pretty well what you're getting with a grown cat -- activity level, sociability, health, etc. Given time in a loving environment, a grown cat forms just as tight a bond with his new people as any kitten can.

With adult cats, knowing a little of the animal's background is important, especially if your family has other pets, or children. (A cat who has never experienced them may have a more difficult time adjusting to a new family that includes either or both.) You can ask questions directly about the cat's background if you're adopting from the original owner. And most shelters or rescue groups also try to provide some basic background information, which they ask of the people giving up their pets.

What if the information isn't flattering to the cat? For example, what if he became available for adoption because of his failure to use a litter box? Give the cat the benefit of the doubt, if you have the time and patience to work on solving the problem. And remember, too, that you don't know the contributing factors. Maybe the litter box was never cleaned or was left in a spot that was convenient for the owner but disconcerting for the cat.

If at all possible, take each adult cat you're considering away from the caging area of the adoption center. Sit down with the animal in your lap, alone in a quiet place, and try to get a feel for the cat as an individual. Shelters are stressful places, so the cat may need a few quiet minutes to collect herself. A calm, confident and outgoing cat will respond pretty readily to your attention, relaxing in your lap, pushing for strokes and purring.

No matter how promising the initial meeting, remember that cats don't react well to change, so be prepared to give your new pet time to adjust to new surroundings once you take her home. Experts advise starting out your cat in a small, enclosed area -- a spare bathroom or small bedroom equipped with food and water, litter box, toys and a scratching post. A few days of quiet seclusion with frequent visits from you will relax your new pet and re-establish good litter-box habits.

If you're even considering bringing a pet into your life, please don't wait for kitten season -- take the plunge now. This is the time of year when adult cats in shelters get to shine a little extra, and there are enough of them around to give you a chance to bring home a pet you'll adore for years to come.

PETS ON THE WEB

Adult cats aren't the only shelter pets facing some spring deadlines -- adult rabbits are under pressure, too. That's because spring means Easter, a time when baby rabbits show up in pet stores, advertised as the perfect holiday gift for children. Later, many of these darling babies will end up in the shelter when their novelty wanes, adding to the overcrowding.

The House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org) has named February "Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month," with plenty of information on these pets -- which contrary to popular belief, are better suited for adults than to children -- at one of the best pet Web sites around.

THE SCOOP

My friend Peg has a houseful of pets and children, as well as a near-religious devotion to a single kind of household cleaner: bleach. Her faith is justified, for this cleaning staple can't be beat when it comes to keeping animal-related objects and surfaces clean. Cages, perches, litter boxes, nonporous toys and more can be cleaned with bleach -- diluted a half-cup to a gallon of water -- then rinsed with clear water and left to air dry. Be sure to use bleach and all household cleaners far away from pets (especially birds, who have very sensitive respiratory systems) and in a well-ventilated area.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We adopted a 4-year-old female Boston terrier last August, and we're having a hard time getting her to eat. I've changed her dog-food brand three times, hoping to find something she would enjoy enough to want to eat. (I know I'm not supposed to change foods, but I'm desperate.)

If I put dry food in her bowl, she'll smell it and walk away. If I take it out of her bowl and put a few kibbles at a time on the floor she'll eat it all. Sometimes she'll eat late at night from a dish that has been there since morning, but other times she won't eat at all. She will eat treats and human food. Can you help? -- M.T., via e-mail

A: The first step is to make sure your dog has no health issues that may be contributing to this problem, so please take her to your veterinarian for a checkup. If all checks out, you must then start to retrain her to eat what she's given, when she's given it.

Rule No. 1: No treats and no human food. Absolutely, positively none. What you've done, you see, is teach your dog that if she turns up her nose at a bowl of perfectly fine dry food, you'll hand-feed it to her a kibble at a time. And if she turns up her nose at that, she'll get something even yummier. No wonder she's picky!

Rule No. 2: No free-feeding. She will now eat two meals a day, one in the morning and one at night. Absolutely no food in between. Water, of course, should be available at all times.

Rule No. 3: One half-hour for meals, no more, no less. Put her dish down in an area with few distractions, such as a laundry room with a baby gate across the opening. Set a timer for 30 minutes. Whatever she hasn't eaten at the end of that time goes back in the bag until her next scheduled meal.

It will not hurt her if she misses a couple of meals, or goes a couple of days without eating -- assuming, of course, that she is healthy to begin with. She won't miss many meals before her hunger will have her eating what you set in front of her, on a regular basis.

During this retraining phase I would stick to one brand of food. Once your dog starts eating regularly you can change brands, but introduce the change gradually. I'm convinced that the idea that a dog should be on a single brand for life was the creation of some clever chap in a pet-food company's advertising department.

Q: I have a 3-year-old cat who really took a liking to the tinsel on the Christmas tree this year. I imagine that it wouldn't be good for him, but I'm curious to what extent. And what is it that attracts them to devour it, not just play with it because it sparkles? -- B.W., via e-mail

A: You're lucky you didn't end up with a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic, or a dead cat. Tinsel, string and other such objects are both incredibly appealing to cats -- and incredibly dangerous.

The appeal is based on their hunting instincts. As any cat lover knows, cats love to follow motion, pouncing on toys as if they were prey. When string and similar substances are eaten, however, they can bind up in their intestines and often must be surgically removed.

Next year, leave the tinsel off your tree, or put such holiday decorations in an area off-limits to your cat. In the meantime, find a fishing-pole type toy for you to play with your cat. Any cat who's fascinated by tinsel will surely flip for supervised play with a toy of this type.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Why get a pet if you don't want a pet in your life? I have often wondered this as I walk my dogs down streets lined with fences behind which lonely outdoor dogs bark as we go by.

I don't know what they look like, and can only guess their size by the deepness of their voices. But I know what the lives of these dogs are too often like. They are animals born to be part of a social structure, a pack or a family, yet this is denied them. They spend their lives on the outside, looking in.

The experts say many of these dogs will never really bond with owners who interact with them so little. When the puppy is no longer cute and the children grow tired of the care they promised to provide, when the destructiveness escalates or the neighbors complain about the noise, it's often just easier to dump the dog than solve the problem.

I have always had difficulty understanding why people want to keep dogs outside. If keeping a beautiful house and yard are of the utmost importance to you, then don't get a dog. If you know someone in your family can't abide a dog in the house, for whatever reason, then don't get a dog. If you can't let a dog be part of your family, then don't get a dog.

You don't get the benefits of companionship from a dog you see so little. You don't even get much in the way of protection from the pet who has no access to the house. And don't count on outdoor dogs as an early-warning system. These animals often become such indiscriminate barkers that you couldn't tell from their sound whether the dogs are barking at a prowler or at a toddler riding a tricycle down the street. Besides, people who keep outdoor dogs seem to become quite good at ignoring the noise they make, as any angry neighbor can vouch.

Outdoor dogs often become a problem to their owners. Bored and lonely, these animals develop any number of bad habits. They dig craters in the yard. They bark endlessly day and night. They become chewers of outdoor furniture, sprinkler heads and siding. And sometimes, without the socialization all dogs need, they become aggressive, ready to bite anyone who comes into their territory.

If you're considering getting a puppy or dog with the intent of keeping him exclusively outside, please reconsider -- for the animal's sake as well as your own and your neighbors'. A pristine home is nothing compared to the pleasures of living with an animal who's really bonded to you. If you don't think so, you shouldn't get a dog.

If you have a dog who has been banished because of behavior problems, find someone to help you turn the situation around. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer who can show you how to overcome the things that are driving you crazy, whether it's house-soiling, uncontrolled chewing or just the ill-mannered exuberance of a dog who doesn't know any better.

Allergies are a tad trickier, but an allergist may be able to help, along with attention to keeping the house and pets cleaner, using air cleaners and turning bedrooms into no-pet zones for allergy-free sleep.

It's worth the effort. Once you have a dog you can welcome into your home and your heart, you'll start to reap the benefits of a relationship that's finally being realized to its fullest potential. And that's good news for you both.

PETS ON THE WEB

Sally Blanchard has strong opinions about parrots -- and she doesn't seem to care who disagrees with her. In both her public appearances and in her magazine, The Companion Parrot Quarterly, she offers strongly worded advice on how these clever pets should be raised, handled and cared for.

With some pet publications caring more about offending advertisers than offering information that puts pets first, Blanchard's views are a breath of fresh air. Her magazine is worth subscribing to for anyone who has, or is thinking of getting a parrot. You can also find a wide variety of articles for free on Blanchard's Web site (www.companionparrot.com). Call it a public service from a person for whom healthy, happy parrots are a life's work.

THE SCOOP

A cat can purr, but a lion can't, nor can any of the other big felines. A tiger can rumble a friendly greeting, but only on the exhale. No big cat can get his motor running the way our household kitties can, purring constantly as effortlessly as breathing, both in and out.

To even things out, however, big cats possess the ability to roar. On the whole, the little cat got the better part of that deal, at least so far as human fans of the cat are concerned.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I applaud your recent column in which you advocated ID tags for all pets. My cat Violet was losing her collar every few days, each a nice one with a tag and bells. I decided I couldn't afford this endless supply of replacement collars, and I hypothesized that the tag was the reason for the losses.

As an experiment, I equipped a collar with a tag made from a Brother P-touch label-maker. I wrote her name, our street address and phone number, then peeled off the backing, slipped the strip through the D-ring on the collar and pressed the two sides together. The combination has a jaunty look, and many months later neither the collar nor the label have disappeared. Would you pass this tip along? –- C.S., via e-mail

A: Your ingenuity reminds me of another suggestion for putting identification on cats, which a friend gave to me many years ago. She would order cloth labels, the kind you put in children's clothing, with her name and phone number. Then, she would get elastic from the fabric store, and cut it into strips for a snug, but not tight, fit around her cats' necks.

She'd put the ends together, add the cloth tag and slip the new collars on her cats. The collars are easy to make up several at a time, and cheap enough to replace frequently if lost. Because they are made of elastic, they'll slip off if a cat gets hung up on something.

Whatever method you choose, do be sure to get an ID on your pet. Even better, add a microchip for permanent ID that cannot be removed or slipped off.

Sometimes people think they don't need ID for their cats because the animals never roam. Indoor cats need tags just as much, maybe even more. Should they slip outside they're going to have an even more difficult finding their way home, because they'll be afraid and in unfamiliar surroundings.

ID is a cheap ticket home, for all pets. Even my parrot, who never goes outside, is equipped with a microchip ID, just in case.

Q: We just got a new puppy for Christmas, and I wasn't part of the decision. If I had been, I would have disagreed because I know how much attention puppies need, having raised one before. I have a toddler and giving the puppy attention is not going to be easy. I feel a little resentful leaving it in a crate pretty much the entire day. But I am not sure what else to do, because I have other things to attend to than trying to take care of a puppy. Please try to help me not feel resentful. -- P.H., via e-mail

A: This is a sad situation all around, and one that's almost certain to end sadly for you and badly for the puppy.

If you cannot get the family member who wanted the puppy to assume responsibility for the animal's care, then I recommend that you start looking for another home for the young dog. If you don't, I can almost guarantee you'll be finding a home for the animal later, when he is unsocialized, untrained and no longer cute.

Half-grown dogs with behavior problems are prime candidates for euthanasia at the shelters. It's not their fault they are not wanted, but still ... they are not wanted. Please do what's right for this youngster and remove him from a bad situation now, while he's cute enough to attract interest, and before you've allowed him to develop bad habits that will be a challenge to change.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600