In my mail recently came a six-fingered glove, made of absorbent material and designed to clean pet paws easily and quickly.

The product, Spotless Paw, is cleverly designed -- with the six fingers it fits over either hand, backward and forward -- and worked pretty well, to a point. At about halfway through the 16 filthy paws at my home, the mitt was outmatched. (It's a nifty product for those with fewer or cleaner dogs than I have, though: $19.95 from pet retailers or www.spotlesspaw.com.)

With seven permanent pets and an ever-changing number of guests and fosters, I'm constantly looking for easier ways to keep my house looking and smelling clean. Products come and go, but the struggle continues. Over the years, I've learned the hard way how to keep pet mess and smell to a minimum.

Here are the basics:

-- Start with surfaces that are easy to keep clean. When choosing flooring, go for tile or other durable, stain-proof flooring. Many multipet families swear by laminate flooring, which looks like hardwood but stands up better to canine nails.

What you can't keep clean, keep covered with something washable. Use small rugs to cover high-traffic areas of your wall-to-wall carpet, and furniture throws to protect your upholstery. (Doctors Foster and Smith has a good selection of furniture throws that can take years of weekly washings -- on this I speak from experience -- and keep looking nice. The company is on the Web at www.drsfostersmith.com, or request a free catalog at 1-800-381-7179.)

-- Catch the dirt you can before it spreads throughout your home. Use floor mats liberally, both outside your doors and just inside, to catch as much muck as you can from those dirty paws. You should also place mats near cat boxes, to help catch any litter that's tracked out. Don't forget to put even more mats under pet food and water dishes. Forget those cutesy-pie pet placemats -– go for something sturdy, and of decent size.

-- Keep pets well-groomed. Brush and comb your pets regularly, and don't delay regular bathing. Your pets will smell better, and the hair you catch in the grooming process won't end up floating around your home.

-- Search and destroy past messes. Sometimes you can see them and not smell them; other times you can smell them and not see them. You have to clean them all, so as not to invite repeat business. If a mess has soaked through, you must pull up the carpet and clean or replace the padding

below.

-- Get on new messes promptly. Messes are easier to clean when they're fresh, and are less likely to leave a permanent stain or attract your pet to revisit the area.

For cleaning, use products designed for pet messes. Available from any pet-supply retailer, these products have enzymes that break down organic wastes and neutralize odors. Pass on ammonia-based cleaners, which smell like urine to pets and so invite repeat business.

The truth is, keeping a home clean when pets are around isn't that difficult, but it does require good planning, the right products and constant effort. If you prevent the mess and you never let a mess sit for too long, your house will always be a pleasant place for you and your pets.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you're looking for someone who has too much time on his hands, check out the Cat Town Web site (www.spatch.net/cattown). The creator has taken some silly images of cats in hats and collars -- lifted from the Japanese site that sells the products -- and written stories to go with them. Strange? Sure, but I found myself smiling with every click in Cat Town, slightly relieved that I wasn't wasting as much time reading the site as the creator spent pulling it together. Besides, the cats are darn cute.

THE SCOOP

A few months ago I wrote about the Kitty Tease, a cat toy of the "fishing pole" variety that I found to be of exceptional quality and value, made by a small family business in Tennessee. (It's so small that the owner's young son is in charge of handling the replacement-string orders.) Since that column came out, hardly a week goes by without someone asking me to repeat the information.

The Kitty Tease is available for $15 including shipping and handling (additional toys to the same address are $10 each), from the Galkie Company's Web site (www.kittytease.com), by phone (423-869-8138) or by mail (P.O. Box 20, Harrogate, TN 37752). Your cat will love it!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Recently I lost my beloved Ariel, a 5-year-old shih tzu, and I am so grief-stricken and lonesome. I know I want another shih tzu, but since I work all day, I am not sure if I can manage a puppy. I am looking into shih tzu rescues and older dog adoptions, but it seems older shih tzus are scarce. If I go the puppy route, do you have any suggestions on what to do when I'm at work? -- V.G., via e-mail

A: Puppies need to eat and go out at midday. If you can't come home for lunch for a few weeks, arrange for a neighbor, friend or family member to drop by in your place. A pet-sitting service will be happy to handle this duty, as well.

In your situation, though, I really think you're on the right track looking for an older dog. As you discovered, the number of small, purebred puppies in rescue isn't that many. But if you expand your search to include mixes and older dogs, you'll likely come up with a wonderful companion. Try visiting the Petfinder Web site (www.petfinder.org) to see what's available in your region.

If you absolutely must have a young, purebred shih tzu, here's a little-known secret: Reputable breeders sometimes have young adult dogs they'd like to place in permanent pet homes.

It's not easy to pick a top show dog from a litter of promising puppies, which is why breeders often "grow out" their top prospects, knowing they won't keep them all. The pups who don't realize their potential need good homes, as do retired show champions who don't fit into a breeding program. While these dogs are not "free to a good home," they generally can be had for the price of a well-bred pet-quality puppy, sometimes less.

How to find these dogs? Go to dog shows and talk to the exhibitors, collecting names of reputable breeders. Follow up with phone calls, explaining the wonderful home you have to offer, and that you're looking for an older dog. Be patient, and keep working on it.

Two of my four dogs came to me through this route. They were dogs who didn't make the cut for competition, and who ended up with the cushiest job of all -- being a pampered pet. They were young, healthy, well-socialized and had some basic training, and they've been the most wonderful companions ever since.

Whichever route you take, please make sure you're ready for a new dog. You've lost a darling dog in Ariel, and if you rush into getting a new companion, you may find yourself feeling guilty, or holding the new dog up to unfair comparisons. Take your time!

Q: I have two problems with my African gray parrot. First, he's a feather-picker, and I can't get him to stop. Second, he won't eat anything but sunflower seeds. Any suggestions? -- W.K., via e-mail

A: These two problems may be related, since good nutrition is essential to the health of all pets, and an all-seed diet is bad news for parrots. You need to find a veterinarian with experience in treating birds, and get your bird a complete physical. You may need a review of proper care for your pet. An experienced avian veterinarian will be able to offer assistance in getting your bird onto a healthy diet and may be able to help with the feather-picking. (No guarantees, sadly, because once this habit is well-established it can be difficult to eliminate.)

One source for a knowledgeable bird doctor is the Web site of the Association of Avian Veterinarians (www.aav.org). Be sure to search by area codes (yours and adjacent ones) or by state, since the search engine isn't sophisticated enough to provide anything more than an exact match for smaller search areas.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Before everyone seemed to have an e-mail account, it used to take a few days until I'd get my first question from the new parent of a Christmas puppy. Now, the e-mails start on Christmas Day.

"I can't get this puppy to stop peeing everywhere!" write the panicky people, typically with no shortage of exclamation points. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they wake up, eat or drink, or after a period of play, and most prefer to do it away from their eating and sleeping areas. Use this knowledge to set up a schedule for molding proper behavior, with a pet carrier (also known as a crate) for your training tool.

First thing in the morning: Take your puppy out of the crate and coax him to follow you outside to relieve himself. Choose a command -- "hurry up" is what I use -- and praise him for going. Take him inside and give him food and water, then go outside again immediately. Give the command again and praise him when he goes. At this stage he's not really minding your command, but you're associating the act with the words, which will come in handy in the future.

If you're going to work, put him back in the crate. If you're not going to work, let him play for a couple of hours, but don't give him full run of the house. Close doors or use baby gates to keep him where you can see him. After an hour or two, take him outside again, and repeat the command and praise. He'll be ready for a little nap, so put him in his crate until lunchtime.

At midday, take your puppy out of the crate and head outside for another round of command, relieve and praise for a job well done. Then take him back inside for food and water, then back outside. If you're home on your lunch hour, play with him a little before you put him back in his crate. If you're going to be home with him, leave him out to play where you are, under your watchful eyes. Take him out in mid-afternoon, and then crate him for his afternoon nap.

If you cannot come home for lunch, get a friend or neighbor to handle the midday break. If that's not possible, set your puppy up in a safe area like the kitchen, and realize you'll be cleaning up a mess when you get home. Don't punish your puppy for the mess, because he can't help himself. (Rule of thumb: Puppies can "hold it" for their age in months -- a 4-month-old puppy can "hold it" for four hours.)

At dinnertime, take him out, feed him, and then take him out and let him play. Leave him out for play and socializing in an area where you can watch him. Offer him a little water a couple of hours before bedtime, but no more food.

Take one last trip out at bedtime. Give your command, and after your puppy does what you want, praise him like the dickens. Then bring your little angel inside and put him in his crate for the night. For the first month or so, you may also have to add a "wee-hours" outing to the schedule. If he wakes up and fusses at 3 a.m., take him out.

If you're patient, positive and consistent, your puppy will start getting the idea right away, even if his body won't allow him to be "perfect" for a few months yet. (Don't punish for "mistakes" -- just clean them up thoroughly.) If he doesn't seem to understand what you want, talk to a trainer or behaviorist to figure out what the problem is, and get the two of you back on track.

PETS ON THE WEB

"The cat could very well be man's best friend but would never stoop to admitting it." -- Doug Larson.

I love quotations! I have several books of them, and I'm always adding new ones to a collection I keep on my computer. The Pet Factory (which sells American-made rawhide chews) has collected many of the best quotes about cats and dogs on its "Fun Stuff" Web page (www.petfactory.com/quote.html). The site also has an entertaining collection of animal trivia.

THE SCOOP

The Whole Dog Journal is one of my favorite pet-related publications, and its upcoming issue for February is the most anticipated of the year. That's when the publication takes its annual look at dry dog foods and recommends a dozen or so foods based on quality, not advertising. The February issue alone is worth the price of an annual subscription, which is $20 for 13 issues, including access to all current articles on the Web site (www.whole-dog-journal.com). Subscribe on the Web, by mail at Whole Dog Journal, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0234, or by phone, 800-829-9165.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We have a 13-month-old Labrador who invariably wakes up at 6 a.m. The past three mornings, though, his wake-up time has been around 4:30 a.m. I'm inclined to think that he needs more exercise, since he has the typical amount of young Lab energy.

My husband wanted me to see if there's anything else we could be doing differently that would help him sleep better. Do you have any thoughts, or do we simply have a dog who's a "morning person"? -- E.S., via e-mail

A: I envy my brother, with his bed-slug boxer. When my brother gets out of bed, his dog stretches, yawns and rolls onto the warm spot my brother had occupied. The dog then falls back to sleep.

Those of us who live with retrievers have a different life. Retrievers are bred to joyfully do a long day's work, and those days simply cannot start early enough for these dogs. 4:30 a.m.? Time to go hunting!

I'm not sure why your dog has suddenly started getting up earlier, unless he's figured out that he gets fed as soon as he gets you two out of bed. (Food is another prime motivator for retrievers, who are notorious chow hounds.)

I feel safe in saying that you're correct in that more exercise wouldn't be a bad thing. Even though I haven't a clue how much exercise your dog gets currently, there's no such thing as enough activity for a 13-month-old Labrador. An evening aerobic session will help him to sleep more soundly.

You should also take away his reward for waking you. Do not make feeding him the first thing on his morning agenda -- or yours. Instead, pick the paper off the porch, make yourself breakfast, take a shower, etc., and then, when your needs are met, address his. You need to break the connection in his head between your waking up and his getting fed.

Try not to react to his alarm-clock act. Don't get up, don't yell. Just ignore. You'll have a difficult time doing this at first, but he will finally come to understand which behaviors alter your actions, and which don't. The ones that don't work, he'll drop.

Above all, be patient. Labs are often a big pain in the fanny until they grow up, which eventually happens between the age of 2 and 4. He's a big puppy now, but you'll start noticing a serious trend toward mellow as he leaves his adolescence.

Q: Our New Year's resolution is for the whole family to trim down and eat healthier, including the dog! My question: How do I know what a good weight for our dog is? Are there height-weight charts, as there are for people? -- J.H., via e-mail

A: With dogs, determining fitness is done with the eyes and the fingers. First, look at your dog from the side. You should see a "tuck up" behind the rib cage, so that your dog has a discernible waistline. Ribs should not be visible, but neither should be rolls of fat. From above, you should see also see that "nip in" at the waist -- a dog should not resemble a coffee table when viewed from above.

Now, put your hands on your dog, on his ribs, and press in gently, then move forward and back. You should feel a slight padding over the ribs, but still easily be able to feel the bones with your fingers.

Not sure? Ask your veterinarian for advice. While you're there, ask to weigh your dog to have a baseline for determining progress. Your veterinarian should allow you to bring your dog in just for follow-up weighing without charge.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In my mail recently came a six-fingered glove, made of absorbent material and designed to clean pet paws easily and quickly.

The product, Spotless Paw, is cleverly designed -- with the six fingers it fits over either hand, backward and forward -- and worked pretty well, to a point. At about halfway through the 16 filthy paws at my home, the mitt was outmatched. (It's a nifty product for those with fewer or cleaner dogs than I have, though: $19.95 from pet retailers or www.spotlesspaw.com.)

With seven permanent pets and an ever-changing number of guests and fosters, I'm constantly looking for easier ways to keep my house looking and smelling clean. Products come and go, but the struggle continues. Over the years, I've learned the hard way how to keep pet mess and smell to a minimum.

Here are the basics:

-- Start with surfaces that are easy to keep clean. When choosing flooring, go for tile or other durable, stain-proof flooring. Many multipet families swear by laminate flooring, which looks like hardwood but stands up better to canine nails.

What you can't keep clean, keep covered with something washable. Use small rugs to cover high-traffic areas of your wall-to-wall carpet, and furniture throws to protect your upholstery. (Doctors Foster and Smith has a good selection of furniture throws that can take years of weekly washings -- on this I speak from experience -- and keep looking nice. The company is on the Web at www.drsfostersmith.com, or request a free catalog at 1-800-381-7179.)

-- Catch the dirt you can before it spreads throughout your home. Use floor mats liberally, both outside your doors and just inside, to catch as much muck as you can from those dirty paws. You should also place mats near cat boxes, to help catch any litter that's tracked out. Don't forget to put even more mats under pet food and water dishes. Forget those cutesy-pie pet placemats -– go for something sturdy, and of decent size.

-- Keep pets well-groomed. Brush and comb your pets regularly, and don't delay regular bathing. Your pets will smell better, and the hair you catch in the grooming process won't end up floating around your home.

-- Search and destroy past messes. Sometimes you can see them and not smell them; other times you can smell them and not see them. You have to clean them all, so as not to invite repeat business. If a mess has soaked through, you must pull up the carpet and clean or replace the padding

below.

-- Get on new messes promptly. Messes are easier to clean when they're fresh, and are less likely to leave a permanent stain or attract your pet to revisit the area.

For cleaning, use products designed for pet messes. Available from any pet-supply retailer, these products have enzymes that break down organic wastes and neutralize odors. Pass on ammonia-based cleaners, which smell like urine to pets and so invite repeat business.

The truth is, keeping a home clean when pets are around isn't that difficult, but it does require good planning, the right products and constant effort. If you prevent the mess and you never let a mess sit for too long, your house will always be a pleasant place for you and your pets.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you're looking for someone who has too much time on his hands, check out the Cat Town Web site (www.spatch.net/cattown). The creator has taken some silly images of cats in hats and collars -- lifted from the Japanese site that sells the products -- and written stories to go with them. Strange? Sure, but I found myself smiling with every click in Cat Town, slightly relieved that I wasn't wasting as much time reading the site as the creator spent pulling it together. Besides, the cats are darn cute.

THE SCOOP

A few months ago I wrote about the Kitty Tease, a cat toy of the "fishing pole" variety that I found to be of exceptional quality and value, made by a small family business in Tennessee. (It's so small that the owner's young son is in charge of handling the replacement-string orders.) Since that column came out, hardly a week goes by without someone asking me to repeat the information.

The Kitty Tease is available for $15 including shipping and handling (additional toys to the same address are $10 each), from the Galkie Company's Web site (www.kittytease.com), by phone (423-869-8138) or by mail (P.O. Box 20, Harrogate, TN 37752). Your cat will love it!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Recently I lost my beloved Ariel, a 5-year-old shih tzu, and I am so grief-stricken and lonesome. I know I want another shih tzu, but since I work all day, I am not sure if I can manage a puppy. I am looking into shih tzu rescues and older dog adoptions, but it seems older shih tzus are scarce. If I go the puppy route, do you have any suggestions on what to do when I'm at work? -- V.G., via e-mail

A: Puppies need to eat and go out at midday. If you can't come home for lunch for a few weeks, arrange for a neighbor, friend or family member to drop by in your place. A pet-sitting service will be happy to handle this duty, as well.

In your situation, though, I really think you're on the right track looking for an older dog. As you discovered, the number of small, purebred puppies in rescue isn't that many. But if you expand your search to include mixes and older dogs, you'll likely come up with a wonderful companion. Try visiting the Petfinder Web site (www.petfinder.org) to see what's available in your region.

If you absolutely must have a young, purebred shih tzu, here's a little-known secret: Reputable breeders sometimes have young adult dogs they'd like to place in permanent pet homes.

It's not easy to pick a top show dog from a litter of promising puppies, which is why breeders often "grow out" their top prospects, knowing they won't keep them all. The pups who don't realize their potential need good homes, as do retired show champions who don't fit into a breeding program. While these dogs are not "free to a good home," they generally can be had for the price of a well-bred pet-quality puppy, sometimes less.

How to find these dogs? Go to dog shows and talk to the exhibitors, collecting names of reputable breeders. Follow up with phone calls, explaining the wonderful home you have to offer, and that you're looking for an older dog. Be patient, and keep working on it.

Two of my four dogs came to me through this route. They were dogs who didn't make the cut for competition, and who ended up with the cushiest job of all -- being a pampered pet. They were young, healthy, well-socialized and had some basic training, and they've been the most wonderful companions ever since.

Whichever route you take, please make sure you're ready for a new dog. You've lost a darling dog in Ariel, and if you rush into getting a new companion, you may find yourself feeling guilty, or holding the new dog up to unfair comparisons. Take your time!

Q: I have two problems with my African gray parrot. First, he's a feather-picker, and I can't get him to stop. Second, he won't eat anything but sunflower seeds. Any suggestions? -- W.K., via e-mail

A: These two problems may be related, since good nutrition is essential to the health of all pets, and an all-seed diet is bad news for parrots. You need to find a veterinarian with experience in treating birds, and get your bird a complete physical. You may need a review of proper care for your pet. An experienced avian veterinarian will be able to offer assistance in getting your bird onto a healthy diet and may be able to help with the feather-picking. (No guarantees, sadly, because once this habit is well-established it can be difficult to eliminate.)

One source for a knowledgeable bird doctor is the Web site of the Association of Avian Veterinarians (www.aav.org). Be sure to search by area codes (yours and adjacent ones) or by state, since the search engine isn't sophisticated enough to provide anything more than an exact match for smaller search areas.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600