In my mail recently came a six-fingered glove, made of absorbent material and designed to clean pet paws easily and quickly.

The product, Spotless Paw, is cleverly designed -- with the six fingers it fits over either hand, backward and forward -- and worked pretty well, to a point. At about halfway through the 16 filthy paws at my home, the mitt was outmatched. (It's a nifty product for those with fewer or cleaner dogs than I have, though: $19.95 from pet retailers or www.spotlesspaw.com.)

With seven permanent pets and an ever-changing number of guests and fosters, I'm constantly looking for easier ways to keep my house looking and smelling clean. Products come and go, but the struggle continues. Over the years, I've learned the hard way how to keep pet mess and smell to a minimum.

Here are the basics:

-- Start with surfaces that are easy to keep clean. When choosing flooring, go for tile or other durable, stain-proof flooring. Many multipet families swear by laminate flooring, which looks like hardwood but stands up better to canine nails.

What you can't keep clean, keep covered with something washable. Use small rugs to cover high-traffic areas of your wall-to-wall carpet, and furniture throws to protect your upholstery. (Doctors Foster and Smith has a good selection of furniture throws that can take years of weekly washings -- on this I speak from experience -- and keep looking nice. The company is on the Web at www.drsfostersmith.com, or request a free catalog at 1-800-381-7179.)

-- Catch the dirt you can before it spreads throughout your home. Use floor mats liberally, both outside your doors and just inside, to catch as much muck as you can from those dirty paws. You should also place mats near cat boxes, to help catch any litter that's tracked out. Don't forget to put even more mats under pet food and water dishes. Forget those cutesy-pie pet placemats -– go for something sturdy, and of decent size.

-- Keep pets well-groomed. Brush and comb your pets regularly, and don't delay regular bathing. Your pets will smell better, and the hair you catch in the grooming process won't end up floating around your home.

-- Search and destroy past messes. Sometimes you can see them and not smell them; other times you can smell them and not see them. You have to clean them all, so as not to invite repeat business. If a mess has soaked through, you must pull up the carpet and clean or replace the padding

below.

-- Get on new messes promptly. Messes are easier to clean when they're fresh, and are less likely to leave a permanent stain or attract your pet to revisit the area.

For cleaning, use products designed for pet messes. Available from any pet-supply retailer, these products have enzymes that break down organic wastes and neutralize odors. Pass on ammonia-based cleaners, which smell like urine to pets and so invite repeat business.

The truth is, keeping a home clean when pets are around isn't that difficult, but it does require good planning, the right products and constant effort. If you prevent the mess and you never let a mess sit for too long, your house will always be a pleasant place for you and your pets.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you're looking for someone who has too much time on his hands, check out the Cat Town Web site (www.spatch.net/cattown). The creator has taken some silly images of cats in hats and collars -- lifted from the Japanese site that sells the products -- and written stories to go with them. Strange? Sure, but I found myself smiling with every click in Cat Town, slightly relieved that I wasn't wasting as much time reading the site as the creator spent pulling it together. Besides, the cats are darn cute.

THE SCOOP

A few months ago I wrote about the Kitty Tease, a cat toy of the "fishing pole" variety that I found to be of exceptional quality and value, made by a small family business in Tennessee. (It's so small that the owner's young son is in charge of handling the replacement-string orders.) Since that column came out, hardly a week goes by without someone asking me to repeat the information.

The Kitty Tease is available for $15 including shipping and handling (additional toys to the same address are $10 each), from the Galkie Company's Web site (www.kittytease.com), by phone (423-869-8138) or by mail (P.O. Box 20, Harrogate, TN 37752). Your cat will love it!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Recently I lost my beloved Ariel, a 5-year-old shih tzu, and I am so grief-stricken and lonesome. I know I want another shih tzu, but since I work all day, I am not sure if I can manage a puppy. I am looking into shih tzu rescues and older dog adoptions, but it seems older shih tzus are scarce. If I go the puppy route, do you have any suggestions on what to do when I'm at work? -- V.G., via e-mail

A: Puppies need to eat and go out at midday. If you can't come home for lunch for a few weeks, arrange for a neighbor, friend or family member to drop by in your place. A pet-sitting service will be happy to handle this duty, as well.

In your situation, though, I really think you're on the right track looking for an older dog. As you discovered, the number of small, purebred puppies in rescue isn't that many. But if you expand your search to include mixes and older dogs, you'll likely come up with a wonderful companion. Try visiting the Petfinder Web site (www.petfinder.org) to see what's available in your region.

If you absolutely must have a young, purebred shih tzu, here's a little-known secret: Reputable breeders sometimes have young adult dogs they'd like to place in permanent pet homes.

It's not easy to pick a top show dog from a litter of promising puppies, which is why breeders often "grow out" their top prospects, knowing they won't keep them all. The pups who don't realize their potential need good homes, as do retired show champions who don't fit into a breeding program. While these dogs are not "free to a good home," they generally can be had for the price of a well-bred pet-quality puppy, sometimes less.

How to find these dogs? Go to dog shows and talk to the exhibitors, collecting names of reputable breeders. Follow up with phone calls, explaining the wonderful home you have to offer, and that you're looking for an older dog. Be patient, and keep working on it.

Two of my four dogs came to me through this route. They were dogs who didn't make the cut for competition, and who ended up with the cushiest job of all -- being a pampered pet. They were young, healthy, well-socialized and had some basic training, and they've been the most wonderful companions ever since.

Whichever route you take, please make sure you're ready for a new dog. You've lost a darling dog in Ariel, and if you rush into getting a new companion, you may find yourself feeling guilty, or holding the new dog up to unfair comparisons. Take your time!

Q: I have two problems with my African gray parrot. First, he's a feather-picker, and I can't get him to stop. Second, he won't eat anything but sunflower seeds. Any suggestions? -- W.K., via e-mail

A: These two problems may be related, since good nutrition is essential to the health of all pets, and an all-seed diet is bad news for parrots. You need to find a veterinarian with experience in treating birds, and get your bird a complete physical. You may need a review of proper care for your pet. An experienced avian veterinarian will be able to offer assistance in getting your bird onto a healthy diet and may be able to help with the feather-picking. (No guarantees, sadly, because once this habit is well-established it can be difficult to eliminate.)

One source for a knowledgeable bird doctor is the Web site of the Association of Avian Veterinarians (www.aav.org). Be sure to search by area codes (yours and adjacent ones) or by state, since the search engine isn't sophisticated enough to provide anything more than an exact match for smaller search areas.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Trimming nails on dogs is often a hard-fought war, with bloody casualties on both sides. Because of that, many people leave the task to their groomer or veterinarian. But unless you're seeing these professionals a lot more than most people do, your pet's nails aren't being trimmed often enough.

Long nails can make walking uncomfortable and can even cause lameness. This is why trimming nails short -- they should be just off the ground when your pet is standing -- and then trimming them just a pinch every week is a better way to go.

The problem with nails is that each has a blood vessel inside. The trick is to trim to just beyond the end of this vein. If you nick it, the nail will bleed, and your dog will yelp. Everyone hits this vein on occasion, even veterinarians, which is why you should be sure to have blood-stopping powder on hand, such as Kwik Stop, before you start trimming.

If your dog has light-colored toenails, the blood vessel is the pink area. Black nails are harder to figure out, but you should be able to see the vein by shining a flashlight behind the nail. If you can't tell, just clip back a little at a time. If you draw blood, take a pinch of the powder and press it against the exposed bottom of the nail for a few seconds to stop the bleeding.

If your dog's nails are so long that they're forcing her foot out of position, you can take them back to where they should be in two ways. The first is to cut a little off every few days: The quick recedes before you as you go. The second way is to have your veterinarian take them all the way back at once when your dog is under anesthesia, such as for a teeth-cleaning. After the nails are at a proper length, keeping them that way is easy with a weekly trim.

If your dog is resistant to having her nails trimmed, work up to the task over a few weeks' time by taking the trimmer in hand and touching it to her feet, then her toes, then the nails, while praising her and giving her treats for each step. When she is used to having her feet handled, put the trimmer against the nail and praise and treat more still. Then trim a little off, and so on. Praise and more praise! Treats and more treats! Don't insist on getting all the nails done at once. Do one or two toes a night, and put the nippers away while both you and the dog are feeling positive about the experience.

An alternative to nail-trimming is nail-grinding. You can buy a canine nail grinder, or just use a lightweight rotary grinding tool, such as the Dremmel.

Some dogs prefer having their nails ground instead of clipped, perhaps because with a grinder it's easy to stop before you hit the quick. The most important thing to remember when grinding is that nails can get hot while you're working on them. Don't grind continuously. Touch the grinder to the nail in very short bursts -- a second or two at most -- to keep the heat from building up. You can also file the nails, using an 8-inch "bastard wood rasp," which is available at most home-supply stores.

Whatever method you're using to shorten the nails, don't forget the dewclaws, those extra toes you can find up on the inside of the leg. Not all dogs have them, but for those who do, neglected nails can be a problem. Long nails can catch on upholstery and tear the dewclaw partly off the leg. Keeping these nails short will prevent injury, which is why you haven't finished trimming nails until you've done the dew, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Humane Society of the United States has come out with a list of the best and the worst animal-related stories of 2003 (www.hsus.org/ace/20185). Included is the saga of the 170 collies and 11 cats seized in appalling conditions from a couple hauling them in a semi from Alaska to Arizona. The animals were nursed back to health over a period of months by volunteers at "Camp Collie" in Montana as the court case went forward against the owners. When the owners were found guilty of animal cruelty, the dogs were released to loving new homes. Other stories include the attack on entertainer Roy Horn by one of his tigers, the strengthening of laws in some states against cock-fighting and other animal cruelties, and the sale of a U.S. stamp promoting the neutering of pets.

THE SCOOP

Socialization is one of the most important parts of turning that promising pup into a loving, trustworthy pet, but it's something that's commonly neglected. Writing in the monthly newsletter The Whole Dog Journal, nationally recognized trainer and author Pat Miller stresses that new experiences are key to a puppy's development. By the age of 4 months, she writes, a puppy should be introduced to 90 new experiences –- people of all shapes, sizes and ages, different environments and lots of new sounds. For the safety of your pup, who is at risk of catching diseases before his final series of shots, avoid areas where dogs you don't know go, choosing instead to socialize your pet with dogs you know to be healthy and fully vaccinated, such as those of your friends and family.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I live in a residential neighborhood, and my precious dog was killed by a coyote last month in a gruesome fashion. If I'd had any idea these animals were in my neighborhood, I never would have let my babies out to go potty at 2 a.m., as I have done for years.

I don't think people realize that these animals roam residential areas and that their feeding and hunting habits are different from those in the wild. Would you please get the word out so others will be more careful? -- L.W., Macon, Ga.

A: It's true: You don't need to live in the country to share your space with coyotes. The animals are plentiful in suburban areas, and have even been reported in New York City and other highly urban environments.

Work with your neighbors to remove food sources that attract them, such as pet food left outside, garbage cans that aren't securely closed or compost piles. If food sources are denied them, the animals will move on to a more promising area.

Large dogs are not at high risk of attack, but small dogs and cats are tempting to coyotes. The only way to keep cats safe is to turn them into indoor-only pets, since a free-roaming cat is not safe day or night. For small dogs, do not let them out unsupervised, and walk them on leashes to keep them close to you. While there have been incidents of dogs being taken off the end of the leash, most coyotes won't want to get that close to a human to risk it. And try to avoid letting any of your dogs out at night if you can.

While these steps will not completely protect your pets, they will reduce the risk from these ever-more-common predators.

The Colorado Division of Wildlife has collected some good information about coyotes on its Web site (http://wildlife.state.co.us/Education/LivingWithWildlife/CoyoteCountry.asp), including more information on protecting pets.

Q: Even though I give my 13 1/2-month-old Yorkie mix chew toys and bones, when I leave her alone, she almost always chews on the edges of area rugs. If I catch her, I always tell her "no" sternly and then replace the wrong chew item with a chew toy. I know I could simply get rid of the rugs, but I would prefer that she learn not to chew on them. Any suggestions? -- K.G., Sacramento, Calif.

A: When you leave her, put her in an area without rugs and anything else you don't want her to chew, leaving the acceptable chewing objects. Choose one special toy that she gets when you're leaving and no other time, such as a small Kong toy stuffed with a little bit of peanut butter. Praise her for chewing the "right" things.

You can try over time to test her in areas with items she shouldn't touch, but some dogs cannot ever be fully trusted not to chew and must be secured in a "safe" area when left.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

We don't like to plan for our own deaths, but it's something that needs to be done.

We've been conditioned to think about making arrangements for any children still young enough to need care and possibly for other family members as well. Our belongings have places they're supposed to go, and maybe we've even thought about what sort of funeral service we would like.

But most of us haven't given a moment's thought to what would happen to our pets if something should happen to us. And yet, our pets are counting on us to do so.

How can you ensure that your pets will be well cared for if something happens to you?

You can't leave money to your pet because, in the eyes of the law, an animal is a piece of property, with little more legal status than a chair. Instead, you must leave your pet (and money to take care of the animal, if you can) to a friend, relative or organization that will look out for your pet's interests.

While you should formalize any arrangements with the help of an attorney, it's essential to discuss your plans with the person you've chosen to handle your affairs, and with anyone you hope will adopt your pet. You might assume a friend or family member will adopt your pet, but that same person, no matter how well-meaning, may not be prepared for the responsibility and might quickly drop off the animal at the nearest shelter.

The time to find this out is now, so you can make other arrangements.

If you have more than one pet, you may need to make a separate arrangement for each one. For example, I have made plans for two of my dogs to go back to their breeders should something happen to me, with the understanding that I trust them to either keep the animals or find them suitable new homes. My two other dogs will each go to friends who have agreed to keep them. My parrot will go to his avian veterinarian, who will place the bird in a new home of his choosing. The pocket pets will go back to the rescue group from which they were adopted. Before any of this happens, I have asked a family member I trust to determine if the animals are young and healthy enough to make the adjustment. Any pet who isn't will be euthanized.

With each pet will go a sum of money, either to offset the cost of handling the adoption (in the case of the parrot and the pocket pets), or to provide for the costs of lifetime care (in the case of the dogs).

Hard to think about? You bet it is! But life is uncertain, and although I prefer not to think of the "what ifs," I know it's my responsibility to the pets I love to be certain they're in good hands if something happens

to me.

The Web site of the Association of the Bar of New York City (www.abcny.org) offers information on providing for your pet after your death. You can access the information by clicking on "Reports/Publications," then on "Brochures," and finally by clicking on "Providing for Your Pets in the Event of Your Death or Hospitalization."

Although the information specifically applies to New York state law, it's broad enough to outline all the options. Even better: The association provides sample documents to show how to draw up agreements that will protect your pets.

THE SCOOP

How many litter boxes do you need if you have more than one cat? Experts say to have as many boxes as you have cats, plus one more. That's because cats can be territorial, claiming one or more boxes as their own and denying access to other cats. What happens next is easy to guess: The cats denied have to find someplace else to go -- and if there's not another box, you'll have a mess on your hands.

Put the boxes in different parts of the home, to make sure each cat is covered in his or her own territory. And as always, keep all boxes scrupulously clean to keep your cat content. You wouldn't want to use a dirty bathroom, and neither does a cat.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want all your animal news in one place? The Pet Hobbyist (www.pethobbyist.com) is the place to go. The site now lists headlines that are linked to animal-related stories from around the world, on subjects as varied as heroic pets and endangered species. The site also offers links to pet-care information and community bulletin boards (for talking with other pet lovers and animal experts), as well as an ambitious chat schedule managed by knowledgeable volunteers. Also available are images, classifieds and a calendar of pet events. The site's a little too text-oriented for my taste, but there's no denying the breadth and depth of the information offered here.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Who would have ever thought having to give up a 6-ounce cockatiel could reduce a grown man to tears? But that's just what happened to me, and I am writing to you to help spare someone else the heartbreak I am going through now over my beloved cockatiel.

What started as cute bird noises in the beginning began to drive me crazy. I couldn't think about anything else but getting the bird to shut up. I realized I am too nervous to have a bird, and I finally placed him in a new home with the help of the local bird society.

Will you please tell your readers what pet stores fail to mention about parrot-type birds? People need to know that there may be constant bird noises from sunup to sundown, regardless of whether guests are over, or someone is trying to use the phone, think or read a book -- no matter how much attention the bird gets. -- D.S., via e-mail

A: I'm glad you were able to find a home for your bird, because a lot of other unwanted pets are not so lucky. And I'm sorry you miss him so much. You are not alone in your lack of information about the true nature of pet birds, and your story serves not so much as to warn people against birds as pets, but rather to warn against taking on responsibility for pets without educating yourself about what they're like and how they need to be cared for.

A great many people have the impression that birds are quiet, easy-care pets. In fact, these highly intelligent beings demand a great deal of time and energy, and yes, they are a constant source of noise (and mess). Some parrots are worse than others -- the stunningly beautiful sun conure is ear-piercingly loud, and the likewise gorgeous rainbow lorry is beyond-the-pale messy. But all parrots, a category that includes cockatiels and budgies, are constant poop-and-noise machines. You have to know that going in.

While it's easy to blame pet stores for not providing information, the responsibility for education must start with the prospective buyer or adopter. You'll find any number of books, magazines and Web sites on every kind of pet imaginable, and you need to do your research before deciding on a pet. "Love at first sight" too often ends up as "Sorry, but you have to go," as you've found out.

Taking on a pet without understanding what's involved is a recipe for disaster. I hope others will learn from your story.

Q: I have a black Lab-chow mix who has been having problems with his ears lately, scratching at them and whining. Is there a home remedy for this? I've heard about using witch hazel. What do you recommend? -- T.H., via e-mail

A: Your dog needs to see a veterinarian right away. He is telling you in no uncertain terms that he is uncomfortable at the very least, and possibly in a fair amount of pain. You cannot treat an ear problem with "home remedies" because you don't know what you're trying to cure. You need a good veterinarian to determine what the problem is, whether it's bacterial, a yeast infection or even an injury.

Once the problem is properly diagnosed, follow your veterinarian's advice on treatment. Give all medication as prescribed, and don't skip a follow-up office call if recommended. Ear problems can be tenacious, and they may take time and money to resolve.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600