Trimming nails on dogs is often a hard-fought war, with bloody casualties on both sides. Because of that, many people leave the task to their groomer or veterinarian. But unless you're seeing these professionals a lot more than most people do, your pet's nails aren't being trimmed often enough.

Long nails can make walking uncomfortable and can even cause lameness. This is why trimming nails short -- they should be just off the ground when your pet is standing -- and then trimming them just a pinch every week is a better way to go.

The problem with nails is that each has a blood vessel inside. The trick is to trim to just beyond the end of this vein. If you nick it, the nail will bleed, and your dog will yelp. Everyone hits this vein on occasion, even veterinarians, which is why you should be sure to have blood-stopping powder on hand, such as Kwik Stop, before you start trimming.

If your dog has light-colored toenails, the blood vessel is the pink area. Black nails are harder to figure out, but you should be able to see the vein by shining a flashlight behind the nail. If you can't tell, just clip back a little at a time. If you draw blood, take a pinch of the powder and press it against the exposed bottom of the nail for a few seconds to stop the bleeding.

If your dog's nails are so long that they're forcing her foot out of position, you can take them back to where they should be in two ways. The first is to cut a little off every few days: The quick recedes before you as you go. The second way is to have your veterinarian take them all the way back at once when your dog is under anesthesia, such as for a teeth-cleaning. After the nails are at a proper length, keeping them that way is easy with a weekly trim.

If your dog is resistant to having her nails trimmed, work up to the task over a few weeks' time by taking the trimmer in hand and touching it to her feet, then her toes, then the nails, while praising her and giving her treats for each step. When she is used to having her feet handled, put the trimmer against the nail and praise and treat more still. Then trim a little off, and so on. Praise and more praise! Treats and more treats! Don't insist on getting all the nails done at once. Do one or two toes a night, and put the nippers away while both you and the dog are feeling positive about the experience.

An alternative to nail-trimming is nail-grinding. You can buy a canine nail grinder, or just use a lightweight rotary grinding tool, such as the Dremmel.

Some dogs prefer having their nails ground instead of clipped, perhaps because with a grinder it's easy to stop before you hit the quick. The most important thing to remember when grinding is that nails can get hot while you're working on them. Don't grind continuously. Touch the grinder to the nail in very short bursts -- a second or two at most -- to keep the heat from building up. You can also file the nails, using an 8-inch "bastard wood rasp," which is available at most home-supply stores.

Whatever method you're using to shorten the nails, don't forget the dewclaws, those extra toes you can find up on the inside of the leg. Not all dogs have them, but for those who do, neglected nails can be a problem. Long nails can catch on upholstery and tear the dewclaw partly off the leg. Keeping these nails short will prevent injury, which is why you haven't finished trimming nails until you've done the dew, too.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Humane Society of the United States has come out with a list of the best and the worst animal-related stories of 2003 (www.hsus.org/ace/20185). Included is the saga of the 170 collies and 11 cats seized in appalling conditions from a couple hauling them in a semi from Alaska to Arizona. The animals were nursed back to health over a period of months by volunteers at "Camp Collie" in Montana as the court case went forward against the owners. When the owners were found guilty of animal cruelty, the dogs were released to loving new homes. Other stories include the attack on entertainer Roy Horn by one of his tigers, the strengthening of laws in some states against cock-fighting and other animal cruelties, and the sale of a U.S. stamp promoting the neutering of pets.

THE SCOOP

Socialization is one of the most important parts of turning that promising pup into a loving, trustworthy pet, but it's something that's commonly neglected. Writing in the monthly newsletter The Whole Dog Journal, nationally recognized trainer and author Pat Miller stresses that new experiences are key to a puppy's development. By the age of 4 months, she writes, a puppy should be introduced to 90 new experiences –- people of all shapes, sizes and ages, different environments and lots of new sounds. For the safety of your pup, who is at risk of catching diseases before his final series of shots, avoid areas where dogs you don't know go, choosing instead to socialize your pet with dogs you know to be healthy and fully vaccinated, such as those of your friends and family.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I live in a residential neighborhood, and my precious dog was killed by a coyote last month in a gruesome fashion. If I'd had any idea these animals were in my neighborhood, I never would have let my babies out to go potty at 2 a.m., as I have done for years.

I don't think people realize that these animals roam residential areas and that their feeding and hunting habits are different from those in the wild. Would you please get the word out so others will be more careful? -- L.W., Macon, Ga.

A: It's true: You don't need to live in the country to share your space with coyotes. The animals are plentiful in suburban areas, and have even been reported in New York City and other highly urban environments.

Work with your neighbors to remove food sources that attract them, such as pet food left outside, garbage cans that aren't securely closed or compost piles. If food sources are denied them, the animals will move on to a more promising area.

Large dogs are not at high risk of attack, but small dogs and cats are tempting to coyotes. The only way to keep cats safe is to turn them into indoor-only pets, since a free-roaming cat is not safe day or night. For small dogs, do not let them out unsupervised, and walk them on leashes to keep them close to you. While there have been incidents of dogs being taken off the end of the leash, most coyotes won't want to get that close to a human to risk it. And try to avoid letting any of your dogs out at night if you can.

While these steps will not completely protect your pets, they will reduce the risk from these ever-more-common predators.

The Colorado Division of Wildlife has collected some good information about coyotes on its Web site (http://wildlife.state.co.us/Education/LivingWithWildlife/CoyoteCountry.asp), including more information on protecting pets.

Q: Even though I give my 13 1/2-month-old Yorkie mix chew toys and bones, when I leave her alone, she almost always chews on the edges of area rugs. If I catch her, I always tell her "no" sternly and then replace the wrong chew item with a chew toy. I know I could simply get rid of the rugs, but I would prefer that she learn not to chew on them. Any suggestions? -- K.G., Sacramento, Calif.

A: When you leave her, put her in an area without rugs and anything else you don't want her to chew, leaving the acceptable chewing objects. Choose one special toy that she gets when you're leaving and no other time, such as a small Kong toy stuffed with a little bit of peanut butter. Praise her for chewing the "right" things.

You can try over time to test her in areas with items she shouldn't touch, but some dogs cannot ever be fully trusted not to chew and must be secured in a "safe" area when left.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

We don't like to plan for our own deaths, but it's something that needs to be done.

We've been conditioned to think about making arrangements for any children still young enough to need care and possibly for other family members as well. Our belongings have places they're supposed to go, and maybe we've even thought about what sort of funeral service we would like.

But most of us haven't given a moment's thought to what would happen to our pets if something should happen to us. And yet, our pets are counting on us to do so.

How can you ensure that your pets will be well cared for if something happens to you?

You can't leave money to your pet because, in the eyes of the law, an animal is a piece of property, with little more legal status than a chair. Instead, you must leave your pet (and money to take care of the animal, if you can) to a friend, relative or organization that will look out for your pet's interests.

While you should formalize any arrangements with the help of an attorney, it's essential to discuss your plans with the person you've chosen to handle your affairs, and with anyone you hope will adopt your pet. You might assume a friend or family member will adopt your pet, but that same person, no matter how well-meaning, may not be prepared for the responsibility and might quickly drop off the animal at the nearest shelter.

The time to find this out is now, so you can make other arrangements.

If you have more than one pet, you may need to make a separate arrangement for each one. For example, I have made plans for two of my dogs to go back to their breeders should something happen to me, with the understanding that I trust them to either keep the animals or find them suitable new homes. My two other dogs will each go to friends who have agreed to keep them. My parrot will go to his avian veterinarian, who will place the bird in a new home of his choosing. The pocket pets will go back to the rescue group from which they were adopted. Before any of this happens, I have asked a family member I trust to determine if the animals are young and healthy enough to make the adjustment. Any pet who isn't will be euthanized.

With each pet will go a sum of money, either to offset the cost of handling the adoption (in the case of the parrot and the pocket pets), or to provide for the costs of lifetime care (in the case of the dogs).

Hard to think about? You bet it is! But life is uncertain, and although I prefer not to think of the "what ifs," I know it's my responsibility to the pets I love to be certain they're in good hands if something happens

to me.

The Web site of the Association of the Bar of New York City (www.abcny.org) offers information on providing for your pet after your death. You can access the information by clicking on "Reports/Publications," then on "Brochures," and finally by clicking on "Providing for Your Pets in the Event of Your Death or Hospitalization."

Although the information specifically applies to New York state law, it's broad enough to outline all the options. Even better: The association provides sample documents to show how to draw up agreements that will protect your pets.

THE SCOOP

How many litter boxes do you need if you have more than one cat? Experts say to have as many boxes as you have cats, plus one more. That's because cats can be territorial, claiming one or more boxes as their own and denying access to other cats. What happens next is easy to guess: The cats denied have to find someplace else to go -- and if there's not another box, you'll have a mess on your hands.

Put the boxes in different parts of the home, to make sure each cat is covered in his or her own territory. And as always, keep all boxes scrupulously clean to keep your cat content. You wouldn't want to use a dirty bathroom, and neither does a cat.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want all your animal news in one place? The Pet Hobbyist (www.pethobbyist.com) is the place to go. The site now lists headlines that are linked to animal-related stories from around the world, on subjects as varied as heroic pets and endangered species. The site also offers links to pet-care information and community bulletin boards (for talking with other pet lovers and animal experts), as well as an ambitious chat schedule managed by knowledgeable volunteers. Also available are images, classifieds and a calendar of pet events. The site's a little too text-oriented for my taste, but there's no denying the breadth and depth of the information offered here.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Who would have ever thought having to give up a 6-ounce cockatiel could reduce a grown man to tears? But that's just what happened to me, and I am writing to you to help spare someone else the heartbreak I am going through now over my beloved cockatiel.

What started as cute bird noises in the beginning began to drive me crazy. I couldn't think about anything else but getting the bird to shut up. I realized I am too nervous to have a bird, and I finally placed him in a new home with the help of the local bird society.

Will you please tell your readers what pet stores fail to mention about parrot-type birds? People need to know that there may be constant bird noises from sunup to sundown, regardless of whether guests are over, or someone is trying to use the phone, think or read a book -- no matter how much attention the bird gets. -- D.S., via e-mail

A: I'm glad you were able to find a home for your bird, because a lot of other unwanted pets are not so lucky. And I'm sorry you miss him so much. You are not alone in your lack of information about the true nature of pet birds, and your story serves not so much as to warn people against birds as pets, but rather to warn against taking on responsibility for pets without educating yourself about what they're like and how they need to be cared for.

A great many people have the impression that birds are quiet, easy-care pets. In fact, these highly intelligent beings demand a great deal of time and energy, and yes, they are a constant source of noise (and mess). Some parrots are worse than others -- the stunningly beautiful sun conure is ear-piercingly loud, and the likewise gorgeous rainbow lorry is beyond-the-pale messy. But all parrots, a category that includes cockatiels and budgies, are constant poop-and-noise machines. You have to know that going in.

While it's easy to blame pet stores for not providing information, the responsibility for education must start with the prospective buyer or adopter. You'll find any number of books, magazines and Web sites on every kind of pet imaginable, and you need to do your research before deciding on a pet. "Love at first sight" too often ends up as "Sorry, but you have to go," as you've found out.

Taking on a pet without understanding what's involved is a recipe for disaster. I hope others will learn from your story.

Q: I have a black Lab-chow mix who has been having problems with his ears lately, scratching at them and whining. Is there a home remedy for this? I've heard about using witch hazel. What do you recommend? -- T.H., via e-mail

A: Your dog needs to see a veterinarian right away. He is telling you in no uncertain terms that he is uncomfortable at the very least, and possibly in a fair amount of pain. You cannot treat an ear problem with "home remedies" because you don't know what you're trying to cure. You need a good veterinarian to determine what the problem is, whether it's bacterial, a yeast infection or even an injury.

Once the problem is properly diagnosed, follow your veterinarian's advice on treatment. Give all medication as prescribed, and don't skip a follow-up office call if recommended. Ear problems can be tenacious, and they may take time and money to resolve.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Heather's ID tag is unreadable, even though it's less than a year old. I blame the fact that she's always in water -- she's a retriever, so she can't help herself -- for the metal's corrosion. I think I'll go back to plastic.

Ben's tag shows wear, which makes the phone number difficult to read. Chase's tag is missing (who knows for how long?). And Drew? The Perfect Dog, as we call him, has perfect tags. So ... that's three ID tags to order, right away.

Yes, dear readers, it's time for the annual New Year's neck check. I started pushing for this tradition years ago, and I still believe it's as important as ever. It's like checking your smoke detector batteries twice a year when the time changes. Checking your pet's collar and tags annually will ensure that an important safety measure is in place should you and your pet ever need it.

Why New Year's? Because it's easy to remember, and besides, what else are you going to do besides eat, drink and watch football?

Start your neck check with a look at your pet's collar. A properly fitted collar is important, but so too is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" collar. These are for training and walking only, and they pose a life-threatening hazard if left on an unsupervised dog. Cats should wear a collar with an elastic section that will allow your pet to wriggle free if he gets caught on something.

If you do have the right kind of collar on your pet, take a minute to look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

If the collar passes muster, it's time to look at the tags. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- yours and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, make a note to order a new tag right away.

My pets also carry tags from a company I really like, 1-800-HELP4PETS. The service, which costs $25 per year, is available 24 hours a day to help reunite you with a lost pet. It can also authorize veterinary care if your lost pet is injured and you cannot be immediately located. More information is available by calling the phone number (800-435-7473), or by visiting www.help4pets.com.

Don't delay in fixing any problems you encounter during your pet's neck check. Problems with collars and tags are easy to fix -- and collars and tags are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents.

A final note: A microchip is another form of identification well worth considering. The tiny transponder, about the size of a grain of rice, is inserted by a veterinarian over the shoulder blades of dogs and cats, or in the breast of birds, and serves as a permanent identification that cannot be slipped off or removed. My dogs and my parrot are all chipped.

Remember, though, that a microchip doesn't take the place of ID tags. They complement each other, and even if your dog or cat is chipped, he should still wear tags.

THE SCOOP

The avian ear, like all of a bird's anatomy, is streamlined for flight, so you won't find an ear lobe on a bird. Instead, look for a swirl of soft, protective feathers in the place where you think the ear should be. Many pet birds love to have the area around their ear canal scratched.

Birds don't hear high- and low-pitched noises as well as we do, but within the range they do hear, they are able to discern more details. The song of a finch would have to be recorded and played at about one-tenth speed for us to be able to hear the richness and detail of sound a bird can.

PETS ON THE WEB

If you've got an active, healthy dog and access to snow, you might want to consider taking up "skijoring," a sport that combines dogsledding with cross-country skiing. Teams of one or more dogs -- huskies and husky mixes are typical, but many kinds of dogs compete -- pull a skier who's also trying to maximize the team's speed. For information, check out the Web site of the Alaska Skijoring and Pulk Association (www.sleddog.org/skijor) or Midwest Skijorers (www.skijor.org).

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We solved our cat's shedding problem by vacuuming our pet. We use an upholstery brush attached to a long vacuuming hose (we have central vacuum). It didn't take a lot of training.

First, there were normal brushing sessions with the vacuum running but the hose just lying on the floor. A customary brushing involved treats before and during the brushing (her food is limited for weight maintenance, so feeding is a real treat for her). That got her accustomed to the sound.

Next, the hose was moved closer and closer during brushing. Then, brushing would commence with the vacuuming tool and hose, but not running.

Finally, the whole procedure was put together -- treat, brush, treat and so forth.

We love training our cat! In fact, she has a whole repertoire:

-- She steps up onto an old-fashioned scale to be weighed, sits up or down on command, and tells us (by tapping the Venetian blinds) when she wants the blind raised so she can look out the front window.

-- She knows not to step on the computer keyboard, and she knows a few command words, too. "Busy-busy" (or just the "bzzzz" sound) says "stay away" from the person who is, well, too busy to be bothered.

-- She reacts to the repeated "chair, chair," which means go get onto your chair (a child's chair with attached food bowl). That chair is in the kitchen, and she occasionally responds even if in the dining room.

-- She has mastered playing a true game of hide and seek. It's much different from living with an adoring dog, but there are many pleasures to a cat that responds to "helpful" training. -- P.G. and M.F., via e-mail, Sacramento, Calif.

A: Your note made my day, and it's a perfect example of how what you get out of your relationship with a pet is largely dependent on what you put in. You've spent time working with your cat, gently training her -- and she has bloomed with the attention.

While a cat will never be a dog -- and that's exactly how cat lovers want it -- our feline companions can be trained with gentle, reward-based methods. Clicker-training, the common term for training with operant conditioning, is perfect for cats. To get started, find a copy of Karen Pryor's "Getting Started: Clicker Training for Cats" ($13, Sunshine Books) or join the e-mail group "Cat-Clicker" (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Cat-Clicker/) for tips from others who are training their pets using a method that's fun for both cat and owner.

Q: How very smug of you to suggest that people give to shelters instead of spending money on gifts for their pets. Some people do both, you know. They rescue pets and actually buy "silly" -- as you say -- gifts for their pets.

All those "silly" gifts keep my babies safe from chewing something that just might harm them. Sheesh! Tell me you won't write any more "silly" columns. -- Anonymous, via e-mail

A: When I wrote that pets don't need "silly" gifts for the holidays, I wasn't talking about toys, which all pets need year-round. Toys help pets from becoming bored, unfit and possibly self-destructive or ill. However, I remain firm in my belief that the things pets don't care about or need -- everything from biker jackets to plush "antlers" -- is a sorry misdirection of money that could be better spent helping a homeless pet.

If you just can't help but go silly with your pets –- Valentine's Day isn't far away -- consider a compromise. Spend a little less, and make a donation to a shelter with the money you save.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600