The truth about cats and dogs is that while a few of them will fight like ... well, you know, most of them can learn to live together peacefully, even happily, in the same household.

The key to such blissful cohabitation is getting the relationship off to a good start -- by introducing the animals slowly and carefully.

Are you starting with a dog and adding a cat? You can makes things easier by teaching your dog two basic behaviors: "leave it" and "stay." You'll ask for both behaviors frequently as you insist that your dog give the new cat some space.

All training classes teach "stay," and many will also teach "leave it," since it's one of the most useful commands around. (For one thing, it can keep your dog from scarfing up something disgusting while you're out on a walk.) If your dog doesn't know basic obedience, or you both need a little brushup, find a class in your area and complete the course before kitty comes home. Having a well-mannered dog will make the transition a great deal easier.

While you're working on your dog, get in touch with a rescue group or shelter that can help you find a cat or kitten who's comfortable being around dogs -- or at least is tolerant of them.

When you and your dog are ready to add to the family, don't be in a hurry to push the animals together. Bring your new cat or kitten home in a carrier, and put the carrier in a bedroom set up for your cat to stay in during the settling-in period, complete with all the things he needs to get by: food, water, toys, litter box, scratching post.

Let your leashed dog sniff the cat in the carrier, but if he's getting overly excited, use the "leave it" command and praise him for minding. Then take the dog out of the room, close the bedroom door, open the carrier and let the cat choose when to explore the new surroundings.

After the cat seems to have relaxed -- which may take a couple of days or a couple of weeks, depending on the cat -- put a baby gate across the bedroom door. This will allow the cat to choose how much interaction he'll have with the dog, and leaves an escape route. The gate can come down when everyone has adjusted to the addition, and when you're sure the dog isn't going to chase the cat.

Although it doesn't seem quite fair to the pet who was there first, confining your cat to a single bedroom also works well if you're introducing a new dog to an established cat. Cats don't like changes in their territory or routines, and having a small, safe area that can then be expanded helps them to adjust.

And speaking of adjustments, chances are you'll have to change the litter box and food dish arrangements of your cat when you add a dog to the family.

Many people allow their cats to feed freely from floor-level bowls of dry food that are never allowed to empty. If this is true in your home, you're going to have to teach your cat to find his dishes in a place where the dog can't get to them -- on the washing machine or a utility-room counter, perhaps.

Litter boxes must likewise be placed in spot inaccessible to the dog, to prevent the disgusting desire many dogs have to munch the contents. Again, a baby gate can provide the necessary barrier, or a cat flap cut into an interior wall or door. Covered litter boxes can also be an option, but some large, strong dogs aren't deterred by them, and these boxes aren't recommended for cats with respiratory problems.

Be alert for conflicts and be creative in solving any problems that arise. While some cats and dogs will never get beyond a truce, there are plenty more who will enjoy the companionship -- as will you.

PETS ON THE WEB

Want to write about dogs or cats? You might want to check out the Web sites of the Dog Writers Association of America (www.dwaa.org) or the Cat Writers Association (www.catwriters.org). I've been a longtime member of the former, and a charter member of the latter. I've found them both to be supportive of new writers, especially through a jointly held annual conference and separate writing contests with individual prizes ranging as high as $1,000.

Members of both groups -- there's a lot of crossover, as you may imagine -- also maintain e-mail lists where questions are answered, victories celebrated and losses consoled. Nice folks!

THE SCOOP

This is the time of year where I can count on people writing in to make fun of friends, family or neighbors who put sweaters on their dogs. Then they'll ask me to publicly announce that clothes for dogs aren't necessary.

While it's true that young, healthy dogs with good coats don't need a sweater or jacket, other pets may benefit from the additional warmth. Count among them lean-bodied dogs -- greyhounds, whippets, Italian greyhounds -- as well as any dog kept clipped relatively short, such as poodles. Older pets will also appreciate the extra padding.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: My husband and I just got back from vacation with our dogs. Unfortunately, we had to endure dirty looks from people at the parks and beaches, because there always seems to be a dog owner up ahead who wasn't observing the leash laws or picking up the mess. Some places that used to accept dogs now don't. I can't say I blame them.

I'll admit it seems counterintuitive to bag the waste when you're in a forest or on the beach, but having seen evidence where someone didn't, we do. I don't like seeing the piles by the side of the trail, and I love dogs. Imagine how people without dogs feel about it!

We've had NDO's (non-dog owners) stop to praise our pups for being on leash, for heeling to let strangers pass on the trail, etc. It always catches us by surprise. While we can see not everyone uses good travel manners, somehow it's hard to accept people can be so stupid. Bad travel manners equal fewer opportunities for dogs and their people. Would you please pass along the word? -- J.J., via e-mail

A: Consider it done. While I'm in favor of off-leash exercise for dogs, I believe it should be in areas set aside for such. And all dog mess should be cleaned up as soon as it hits the ground.

Good manners are the only way to fight anti-dog sentiment, and every ill-behaved dog and left-behind pile makes it more difficult for responsible dog lovers to find places that welcome their pets.

Kudos to you both for setting such a good example with your well-behaved dogs.

Q: There is much controversy regarding seeds and pellets as the best diet for parrots. If the seed mixture comes with pellets already mixed in it and you fortify their diet with plenty of greens, fruit and some table food, do you feel that is sufficient?

Our veterinarian recommends a pellet-only diet for our parrots with only occasional treats of fruit and veggies. What is your take on this? -- L.O., via e-mail

A: I'm not aware that it's much of a controversy anymore. Seeds are a bird's junk food, best left for use as occasional treat or training aid. They should not be a dietary staple. Pelleted foods have gained near-universal acceptance as a foundation on which to build a healthy diet.

My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, Dr. Brian L. Speer, is past president of the Association of Avian Veterinarians and one of only a handful of veterinarians board-certified in avian care in both North America and in Europe. He's a strong believer in a diet as varied as possible. Start with a high-quality pelleted food, supplemented liberally by every kind of healthy "people food" imaginable -- a wide variety of fresh vegetables and fruits, pasta, bread and more.

Your question gives me the opportunity to share my friend Joanne's recipe for "Sweet Potato Cupcakes," a favorite of her African gray, Layla, and, now, my little caique parrot, Eddie. Bake or microwave a sweet potato, then scoop the flesh into a bowl. Mash with a little orange juice (a sprinkling of seed optional), spoon a small amount into paper cupcake shells and freeze. I give Eddie his cupcake half-thawed; he loves the food and happily rips the paper to bits when he's done eating.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Emergency veterinary clinic are often pretty exciting places, even over the holidays. While staying busy makes the time go by more quickly, I'd bet that the staff of most emergency clinics would rather not spend their time trying to save the lives of pets who may not have been there if their families had been a little more cautious. As any veterinarian will tell you, prevention is always better than a cure.

And that's why every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. Let the veterinary staff play cards this year instead! Avoid emergencies by steering your pet clear of these holiday hazards, which sicken or kill countless pets at this time of year:

-- Food dangers. Anything that's rich, fatty or spicy can trigger a bout of intestinal upset for your pet. For some animals, a fatty treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, either of which can kill.

What to avoid? While a little bit of meat won't hurt, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors too much fat.

Watch those candy dishes, too, and keep them out of reach from your pets. No candy is "good" for pets, and chocolate can be lethal.

-- Foreign-body ingestion. Cooked poultry bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. Should one pierce through the lining, the result can be deadly peritonitis.

While cooked poultry bones are out, some beef bones, raw or cooked, can be safely substituted, under supervision. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with hours of messy fun. Check at the meat counter for these treats. Throw out bones after a couple hours of chewing, or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.

The Christmas tree is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, can be deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Strings of light are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on a cat climbing in its branches.

The best way to handle tree hazards is by making the room with the Christmas tree off-limits to your pets unless you're there to keep them out of trouble. If that's not possible, consider putting some kind of barrier up to keep pets away when you can't be watching.

-- Poisonings. Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet-lover's home.)

Be sure holiday greenery passes the safety test, and don't let the whirl of the holidays allow you to let down your guard when it comes to protecting your pet from toxic household chemicals.

The final part of preventive care is knowing what to do in an emergency. Do you know where to take your pets when your regular veterinary hospital is closed for a holiday? Do you have the phone number? Take a few minutes now to make sure you have the answers, just in case.

THE SCOOP

A while back I mentioned a new online magazine for dog lovers, The Daily Dog (www.thedogdaily.com), put out by the same talented woman, Beth Adelman, who also edits The Daily Cat (www.thedailycat.com). Adelman has now come out with an entertaining book that looks at feline care from a cat's point of view. The spin on "Every Cat's Survival Guide To Living With a Neurotic Owner" (Barnes and Noble Books; $7) is that the author is Adelman's cat, Yin Yin, who answers questions from other cats about what their owners are doing wrong. The concept could get old in fast order, but Adelman pulls it off in fine style, with witty, well-written answers packed with up-to-date information on nutrition, behavior and much, much more. A real find, and a great bargain!

PETS ON THE WEB

If you're not sure about what can be toxic to your pets, you might want to review the information on the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center Web site (www.aspca.org/apcc). The APCC is where veterinarians call when they need quick answers for patients who've been poisoned, and the information provided to the general public on toxic plants and products is the best you'll find anywhere. It's also a good place to check out Internet rumors, such as the ones circulating in recent months concerning cocoa hull mulch and grapes/raisins. Yes, says the APCC, you need to keep all this stuff out of your pet's mouth.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you please introduce your readers to an emergency animal disaster-response group called Noah's Wish? The organization is a national nonprofit that exists solely for the purpose of disaster response and preparedness in regard to animals.

The Noah's Wish team was on-site in Southern California assisting with more than 1,000 animals affected by the fires. Working in conjunction with the local animal-control agencies, Noah's Wish has organized and implemented an emergency animal shelter and provided services such as in-field rescue, day-to-day care, food, cleaning, medical attention and procurement of supplies to dogs, cats, horses, goats, turtles, rabbits, chickens, ducks and various other animals.

The director of Noah's Wish, Terri Crisp, has more than 20 years of experience in disaster response in relation to animals. She has two books published relating her stories of more than 50 disasters worldwide. Noah's Wish also recently returned from assisting animals endangered by fires in Canada.

I believe your readers would be interested in the information that Noah's Wish has provided on their Web site. There are step-by-step instructions on preparing for the worst and information on the services Noah's Wish can provide during a disaster. -- J.M., via e-mail

A: Terri Crisp is one of those people who have made such a huge difference for animals that she changed the culture. When I started writing this column, disaster experts would be dismissive of my attempts to get information on helping animals. The prevailing attitude: "We're not here to help animals. Animals don't matter. Leave 'em a bag of food and get your family out."

Years ago, I pointed out to a disaster-response expert that in fact many people consider their animals to be part of their families. His response, as I recall, was something along the lines that if such people didn't understand that animals were just, well, animals, then they deserved what they got trying to save their pets.

I can't imagine anyone saying that now. Because of people like Terri Crisp, disaster planning and response now includes animals, in part because of the recognition that people do consider animals to be part of the family and will risk their lives to save their pets.

Mind you, Noah's Wish does not suggest anyone put their lives at risk. The group strongly encourages all animal lovers to prepare themselves with the supplies and knowledge needed to evacuate their two- and four-legged family members before they are in danger. Noah's Wish will walk you through the steps of emergency preparedness on its Web site (www.noahs-wish.org; click on "Being Prepared"). To reach Noah's Wish, write to P.O. Box 997, Placerville, CA 95667 or call (530) 622-9313.

Incidentally, Terri Crisp's books are well worth seeking out. They're great reads!

Q: I know you're written about the trend toward spaying puppies and kittens. What happened to the old advice about letting them have one litter first? -- S.H., via e-mail

A: That advice, like so many old chestnuts regarding pets, had no evidence behind it. Animals do not need to be bred once for any reason, and there are many good reasons for them to be neutered before reaching sexual maturity. Of course, preventing litters helps with the pet overpopulation problem, but neutering helps each individual animal by eliminating or reducing the risks of some cancers, and preventing or reducing some behavior problems.

In short: A neutered pet is a better pet, and the sooner the deed is done, the better.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you want to save money on pet care, you need to work on preventing illness instead having it treated after health problems have advanced. By practicing preventive care, you will save money, and you'll also spare your pets a lot of suffering.

That sound advice sums up "The Angell Memorial Animal Hospital Book of Wellness and Preventive Care for Dogs" (McGraw-Hill, $22), a recently released work by well-regarded pet writer Darlene Arden and the staff of one of the world's top hospitals of veterinary medicine, the Boston-based Angell Memorial.

"Preventive medicine, or 'wellness,' is one of the few things that started in humans and then went to animals -- most advances in medicine work the other way around," said Arden by phone from her home in Massachusetts. "Rather than using stopgap measures to make a pet healthy after the animal has become ill, if you can prevent or catch illness early on, it's easier on the pet, the owner and the pocketbook."

Arden is quick to share some of the most important foundations of preventive care, all of which are expanded on in the book. They include:

-- Don't forget annual exams. "Just because vaccinations schedules are moving away from pets having to have shots updated annually, doesn't mean you don't need to take your dog to the veterinarian every year," says Arden.

"The annual exam is where you catch things before they become serious -- and expensive -- problems."

-- Practice good dental care. "People don't seem to realize that pets get cavities and periodontal disease just as humans do," says Arden. "You ought to brush your pet's teeth every day, with a toothpaste made for them –- they like the taste! Do not rely on hard chew toys to clean teeth -- hooves and bones can fracture the teeth, causing real problems."

Arden adds that pet dentistry is about more than healthy teeth. Rotting teeth and gums are breeding grounds for harmful bacteria, which end up in the bloodstream and can shorten a pet's life by damaging the heart, liver and kidneys.

-- Nutrition and exercise. "Choose a complete and balanced food from a reputable company that meets the AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) standards," says Arden. "As for exercise, you need to keep your dog healthy inside and out. A dog who gets lots of physical and mental exercise will be less likely to be fat and less likely to have behavior problems."

-- Accident-proof your dog. "We don't recommend that people use choke or prong collars," says Arden. "I always say to people, 'What part of "choke" do you not understand?'" Arden adds that Angell recommends positive-reinforcement training, a safe and effective alternative to old "boot-camp" methods.

Arden cautions that you need to "pet proof" your home to prevent accidents. "Get garbage cans that seal so your dog will stay out of the trash, and keep lower-level cabinets secured," she says. "You would not believe what an animal without opposable thumbs can get into. Be careful with medicines, too, and be sure to pick up any dropped pills.

"Pick up around the house, and teach your children to do the same, so small household items and toys don't get swallowed. Inside and out, keep your pets clear of household chemicals, such cleaning supplies, herbicides and pesticides. Watch out for toxic plants, as well."

-- Practice good parasite control. "Work with your veterinarian to develop safe and effective strategies for fighting fleas, ticks and worms. These parasites can make your pet miserable or even kill, and they can also present a health risk for the rest of your family," says Arden.

Want more? You'll find it in this thorough book, which in itself qualifies for a good investment in preventive medicine. If the book sells well enough, it will be followed by a similar work on preventive care for cats.

THE SCOOP

A good way to evaluate the health of a bird is to pay attention to what your pet leaves at the bottom of his cage. Birds produce feces with three components: the stool, which is semisolid and dark in color; the urates, which are a loose, whitish solid; and urine, which is nearly a clear liquid. Get to know how these wastes look normally, as well as the usual variations -- some foods can change the color of the stools, or increase the amount of urine. Once you know what's typical for your bird, you can spot abnormalities that might be an early indication of a serious illness developing.

PETS ON THE WEB

Angell Memorial Animal Hospital in Boston and the Animal Medical Center in Manhattan are just about the only places where an animal can be treated by a staff of board-certified veterinary specialists outside of hospitals affiliated with schools and colleges of veterinary medicine. Angell's Web site (www.angell.org) is mostly dedicated to the running of the hospital, with a little bit of pet-care advice thrown in for good measure. The Animal Medical Center (www.amcny.org) is more generous with its advice, offering a wide array of pet-care fact sheets.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Can you tell me why it is necessary to boost my cat's vaccines on a yearly basis? Humans develop immunity to vaccine-preventable diseases, and we know that immunity is sustained for varying lengths of time before it drops below protective levels. For example, in humans, the tetanus vaccine is required only every 10 years after an initial basic series. -- D.T., via e-mail

A: Annual boosting of many feline vaccines is no longer routinely recommended for most cats. Instead, the American Association of Feline Practitioners and the Academy of Feline Medicine recommends that veterinarians tailor their preventive-care regimen based on the lifestyles of each individual cat -- an indoor-only cat may need to be vaccinated against fewer diseases than a roaming one, for example.

For many vaccines, after the initial series of shots brings a kitten's immunity up to par, boosters are recommended at three-year intervals. Veterinarians are also advised to use individual vaccines (no combination shots, in other words), and place the shots in different parts of the body to make it easier to identify and treat any possible reactions. (The Winn Feline Foundation has a thorough explanation of vaccination protocols and the reasoning behind them at www.winnfelinehealth.org/health/vaccination-guidelines.html.)

Educate yourself about the new recommendations and then talk to your veterinarian about what's right for your cat -- exactly which vaccines are needed, and how often your cat needs to get them. And remember that even if your cat no longer needs annual boosters, she still needs an annual examination, which is an essential part of a preventive-care program.

Q: My hubby and I have two cats, but would like to add a dog now that we finally have a home of our own. We've decided that a good choice for our lifestyle would be a rescued greyhound.

Some rescue organizations say these dogs sleep all day and are happy alone, but other groups say they need someone home most of the day.

Who is right? My husband and I may be able to come home at lunch sometimes, but with today's economy there are no guarantees that workloads won't change.

Our hobbies include walking, hiking and the occasional bike ride or camping trip. We spend most of our time studying, reading, renting movies and socializing with outdoorsy people who love pets. Our yard is small, but we have a fenced dog park nearby. Oh, and we're not having kids, which shelters seem to think is important to decide in advance of adoption.

Sometimes I wonder if rescue organizations are a bit rigid in the way they decide what dogs "have to have." What do you think? -- H.H., via e-mail

A: Your situation sounds perfect for a greyhound, most of whom would be perfectly happy to sleep while you and your husband are at work -- especially if you have a nice, soft couch. The only concern would be for your cats, since some greys are cat-aggressive. Reputable greyhound adoption groups do cat-test their dogs, however, and you should be able to find one who will pose no threat to your cats.

Remember that rescue groups vary widely when it comes to adoption guidelines and yes, some are more than a bit rigid. If you are working with a rescue group that insists someone be home at all times, then by all means find another group that's a bit more open-minded when in comes to what constitutes a "good home."

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600