The people who lived in my home before I did were more into children than pets, and for months after I moved in, I got lots of catalogs for kid stuff. Most of them were for toys, clothes or furniture, and I tossed them into the recycling bin with hardly a glance.

But the catalog with baby-proofing items really caught my eye. I didn't know so many clever gizmos had been invented to keep children from opening cupboards, putting their fingers in power outlets or bumping their heads on coffee tables. You just can't be too careful, I suppose.

The same is true for cats, of course. Over the years I've been saddened by letters and e-mails from readers whose cats have died in household accidents that were largely preventable, if only the people had known of the risks beforehand.

In the interest of making your home safe for your cat, here's a list of some household dangers you need to beware:

-- Clothes dryers. Cats are heat-seekers, going where the warmth is, whether it's a patch of sun, your lap or a pile of clothing in a dryer. It's so easy not to notice a napping cat when you throw in a couple more items, close the door and turn on the appliance. I personally know three people who have lost cats this way, along with dozens of readers. Don't take a chance: Always check the dryer before turning it on, and always keep the dryer door shut when you're not loading.

-- Medications. Never, ever give even the most seemingly mild medication to your cat -- or any pet -- without checking with your veterinarian first. The biggest danger? Tylenol. It's fine for your headache, but likely lethal for your cat.

Even if you should get lucky and give your cat something that's not potentially lethal, you might be mistaken as to what's ailing your pet. Veterinarians have spent many years in school to learn about cats, what ails them and what to do about it. If your cat is sick, see your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment.

-- Insecticides. Cats are very sensitive to flea-control and other household insecticides. Never use a flea-control product on a cat unless it specifically says on the label that it's safe for a cat. Products meant solely for use on dogs can kill cats. Best bet? Check with your veterinarian.

-- String. Some cats like to play with string, yarn, thread, ribbon and other similar items. In supervised play, string and string toys are fine. The problem is that when cats are left unsupervised with string or yarn, they'll sometimes eat the material, causing internal problems that may require surgery and can sometimes cause death.

Be sure to keep string, yarn and ribbons out of your cat's reach. Put away your knitting and sewing projects when you're not working on them. And be sure to properly discard the strings from roasts to ensure your cat won't be given the opportunity to ingest the meat-juice-saturated string.

-- Houseplants. Cats love to chew on houseplants, which means it's essential to keep only those plants that won't poison your pet. You can find a list of dangerous plants in many cat-care books (including my own "Cats for Dummies"), or check out the list on the Cat Fanciers' Association Web site (www.cfainc.org/articles/plants.html).

The outside world, of course, contains many more dangers, from cars to cat-hating neighbors to coyotes. The only protection against these, of course, is to keep your cat inside.

But inside your own home, a little knowledge and a few simple precautions will be more than enough to keep even the most star-crossed cat out of trouble.

THE SCOOP

I've received a handful of frantic requests lately for the formula that gets rid of skunk odor on a pet, so I guess it's time for a repeat. Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (available from most drugstores), 1/4 cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate for you science types) and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water. This works like you can't believe!

Whenever I mention this solution, I also like to mention the person who discovered it -- according to an article a few years back in the Chicago Tribune. Chemist Paul Krebaum didn't make any money off his discovery, but anyone who has ever used this formula on a skunked pet will agree that he's certainly owed our thanks.

PETS ON THE WEB

Before most people even heard of the Internet, before shady marketers discovered e-mail, before everyone and her brother put up a Web page ... there was the Dog Owners Guide (www.canismajor.com/dog). This online magazine has been growing an impressive collection of articles since 1990, offering information on every imaginable topic pertaining to dogs, from choosing and training to showing and feeding. The folks running the site not only know dogs but also love them, and want to share their knowledge to help others make the most of their relationships with their four-legged companions. Sign in, surf around -- you'll be glad you did!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: We've done a lot of research into the kind of dog we want, and we've settled on a breed we love and think will work for us.

We went to a couple of shows and found what seems to be a wonderful breeder who has a litter available now. The fly in the ointment is that she wants us to sign a contract that she will own half the puppy we want, and that locks us into a future for the dog that involves showing her and, possibly, breeding her.

She says it's not a big deal, really, since she will doing the showing for us and will sell the puppies. Maybe it's not a big deal for her, but it sounds like a lot of work to us.

My husband says we should just take the puppy and get her spayed, and that the breeder won't be able to do anything about it. But I don't want to get sued over a dog. What do you recommend? -- R.U., via e-mail

A: Such "co-ownership" contracts are common in the dog-show world, and often are the only way for newbies to the sport to acquire the show-quality dogs they need to compete. When co-ownerships work, they work well, because these arrangements set up a mentoring relationship between a successful, established breeder and someone who needs to learn the ropes.

The problem is that there aren't enough "show homes" available, and breeders aren't anxious to see potentially winning dogs taken out of competition and the gene pool. That's why some breeders will sometimes offer "show-quality" dogs to homes such as yours, under the conditions you describe. I know of such cases where these arrangements have worked out, but I don't see that happening here, because you're not interested in owning a show dog, period.

If the breeder insists on putting restrictions on the sale of the puppy you want, you'll have to pass on her. Perhaps there's another pup in the same litter who's not show-quality that can be had without a showing agreement, or perhaps the breeder knows of another breeder with puppies whose ownership won't be restricted in this way.

Whatever you do, don't agree to do something you don't intend to do just to get the puppy. Aside from your concerns over being sued down the line -- and breeders have indeed gone to court to enforce co-ownership contracts -- it's flat-out wrong to lie about your intentions.

Q: Do you have any advice for keeping my cat off my shelves? She has broken a couple of fragile items by knocking them off. -- W.P., via e-mail

A: Cats are agile enough to go where they want, and we mere humans aren't going to change their behavior. Instead, we need to change our behavior and move those fragile items out of harm's way.

Put your most valuable or sentimental breakables in glass-fronted cabinets -- thereby denying access to your clumsy cat. If you have a large collection of fragile items, you might move them all into a single room and keep the door to that room shut.

Sturdier or less valuable items can be secured to the shelves. Double-sided tape will work for some pieces, while Velcro will do for others. You should be able to locate these materials easily in craft or home-supply stores.

You can also try a product called Quake Hold, a putty that seals objects to their display surface. If you can't find it locally, you can easily buy it from any number of Web-based merchants.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

As the days grow shorter and the nights grow colder, you may observe something that seems odd for a body preparing for winter: Your dog is shedding more than usual.

But rest assured, it's perfectly normal. Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, when it's replaced by a shorter, lighter summer coat. In the fall, this cycle is reversed -- the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy, protective fur for winter.

The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, Samoyeds and malamutes. These breeds carry a protective overcoat of long hair, and also an insulating undercoat that's softer, almost downlike. They lose masses of fur from both these coats in spring and fall.

The amount of shedding varies widely from breed to breed. German shepherds, for example, are prolific year-round shedders, while poodles seem to lose very little fur at all. Shorthaired breeds may shed as much as the longhairs, but since the hair that light-coated dogs shed is easily overlooked, it may seem as if they are shedding less.

All shedders -- even the heaviest -- can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on a rug.

If you have a purebred, or a dog that has the characteristics of a purebred, seek out breed-specific advice in regard to the proper kind of grooming equipment. The slicker brush that works fine on a close-cropped poodle may not make much headway in the thick mane of a full-coated chow at the height of a seasonal shed.

My favorite grooming tool to control shedding is the one with a loop of metal with teeth on one side, attached to a comfortable handle. For my medium-coated dogs, this tool is all that's needed to keep coats in fine shape; for my double-coated dog, the shedding loop pulls out the clumps of loose fur and then I follow up with a thorough combing and brushing to catch the rest.

No matter what the breed or mix of dog, shedding is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition or other health problems can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if their coat condition seems too dull, or you notice excessive hair loss.

Something else to think about in fall: Are your pets ready for colder weather? It's important at this time of year to assess your pet's condition, age, weight and level of exercise, and make adjustments for the cold.

In general, healthy, normal-weight pets who spend most of their time indoors need less food in winter (to offset a decrease in activity), and while those who spend more time outside need slightly more (keeping warm requires energy, and food is the fuel).

While you're evaluating your pet, be sure to assess his surroundings as well. If your pet ever sleeps outdoors, be sure his shelter is adequately insulated and placed in an area protected from wind gusts and bad weather. It's also essential to have a source of nonfrozen water available at all times.

Cold weather is especially tough on older pets. For elderly animals, it's not ridiculous to help out by putting a sweater on them when they go outside. Boots, too, may be a mercy for tenderfooted house pets who enjoy a daily walk. Outside or in, heated beds are a good idea, and there are many models to choose from in pet-supply catalogs, stores or Web sites.

THE SCOOP

Pat Miller is board president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com) and an editor at one of my favorite publications, the Whole Dog Journal (www.whole-dog-journal.com). Her training articles, as you might imagine, are wonderful, but I like her product reviews even more. Which was why I was delighted to see her favorable review of a harness she says works well to control even strong dogs on leash. The SENSE-ation Harness has the leash attachment on the front, and is designed to put steady pressure on shoulders of dogs who insist on pulling as if they're running the Iditarod. Prices run a very reasonable $20 to $30, depending on size, with the harness available from SofTouch Concepts, toll free (866) 305-6145 or www.softouchconcepts.com.

PETS ON THE WEB

Everyone has days when it seems the world is conspiring to bring unhappiness. When I'm having one of those days, I know one thing that will bring a smile to my face no matter what -- Joop's Fotolog (www.fotolog.net/joop).

For those who haven't run across Fotolog, the service offers thousands of people around the world the chance to keep an online diary, using images instead of words. Joop is a handsome dog who lives in a lovely village in Holland, and whose owner takes a picture of him in his surroundings almost every day. (My friend Kevin, also in Holland, tells me "Joop" is pronounced "Yope.") The whimsical pictures show a picture-perfect town and its farmland surroundings, with an impish black-and-white terrier as the tour guide. I want to visit!

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: An information sheet from our local shelter states that plastic bowls are a safer choice for feeding outside pets in the wintertime. It said that there's a chance of both food and the pet's tongue freezing to the stainless steel. Would you please pass that along? -- C.S., via e-mail

A: Their point is well-taken, but it's not the whole story. Plastic bowls may be a little safer when left outdoors, but the contents in them will still freeze.

I know people who have sled dogs housed outdoors in winter, and they use stainless steel for the reasons I mentioned -- they're durable and easy to keep clean. They are careful to limit the amount of time the bowls are available: The bowls go down, the dogs eat and the bowls are picked up.

Water dishes are a different matter entirely, since neither stainless steel nor plastic bowls will keep water from freezing. An investment in a heated bowl or drop-in heating element is a must-have item for dogs who spend time outdoors.

Q: We recently bought a hand-fed baby cockatoo. It was a big outlay, not just for the bird, but also the cage, a play gym, toys, perches and more. The bird shop recommends buying an air cleaner, too, but I wonder if that's really necessary. We want to do things right, so if we need it, we'll get it. What do you think? -- D.B., via e-mail

A: Paying attention to air quality is good for your bird and good for you too. Some species of pet birds --- your cockatoo is perhaps the best example -- give off a lot of feather dust, a natural, powdery grooming material that originates from the powderdown feathers over the flank and hip areas.

How bad can it be? I once spent a few minutes snuggling with an adorable Moluccan cockatoo at my bird's veterinary hospital, and ended up with my dark T-shirt almost completely covered in white powder.

The problem is more than aesthetics, though. One dusty bird can really reduce the air quality of a room. More than one bird can make it downright unbreathable for both you and your birds. (Remember: Feather dust is not a problem when a bird's in his natural outside environment.)

It's a matter of personal preference, of course, but if you're living with one or more dusty birds, you really ought to spring for the air filter. You and your bird will both breathe better for your decision.

Another related item to consider is a humidifier. Our climate-controlled houses are often too dry for our birds, many of whom are most at home in tropical rainforests. Frequent misting or bathing of your bird is a great idea, but so is keeping a high moisture content in your air with a humidifier.

If you live in Hawaii, southern Florida or another tropical environment, lack of humidity isn't a concern. In other parts of the country, however, dry air can make your bird uncomfortable, especially in wintertime, when home heating systems make the atmosphere inside very dry indeed.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Late last year, in the midst of a relationship that was starting to feel like something permanent, I made a rather bold decision: I bought a new bed.

Not just any bed, mind you, but the biggest bed I could find. When I was informed by the saleswoman that it would take three months to be manufactured and delivered, I chidingly asked the man in my life if he would be there when the bed arrived.

"Oh sure," he said. "And if I'm not, you have plenty of pets to take up all that space. They'll love it."

Which is, of course, exactly what came to pass. The bed came, the man left, and the animals are still here, same as always.

I'm not sure what that says about the relative constancy of romantic relationships and pets, but I have to give the man credit for being right. The animals do indeed love the big new bed. And I'm glad to share it with them.

Every now and then I hear from someone who wants me to write about how awful it is to have dogs or cats on the bed. I've had grandparents who want to convince their sons or daughters that a pet on the bed is unhealthy for children, and new sweethearts who disagree about where a pet should sleep.

"To have pets in the house is bad enough," wrote one frustrated women, who clearly had much larger issues with her daughter than the younger woman's pets. "But to have them on the bed? That's dirty and disgusting!"

Such folks won't find much agreement from me. I like having pets on the bed. In the wintertime, they're like heating pads that you don't have to plug in or recharge -- and they'll readjust automatically every time you move. This surely won't mollify anyone who believes pets are disgusting, but I've always kept things clean by putting a washable cover on top of the bedding to catch all the dirt and stray hair.

Still, there are good reasons to keep your pets off the bed and maybe even out of the bedroom, among them behavioral problems and allergies.

For dogs who have dominance issues, allowing access to the bed isn't recommended, since it gives the animal the idea that he or she has status equal to or better than the human family members. For these dogs, sleeping elsewhere will likely be part of a retraining program to modify the animal's exalted opinion of his own value. (As with all dominance issues, please work with a veterinary behaviorist or trainer with experience in aggression to modify the dangerous behavior of such a pet.)

For people with allergies, turning the bedroom into a pet-free zone is common medical advice that ought to be followed. Maintaining a pet-free bedroom is part of an overall strategy to minimize the impact of pet dander. It will allow them to sleep without sneezing or wheezing, and awake rested without allergy symptoms or headaches. For those with allergies, keeping pets out of the bedroom gives them enough "breathing room" to make it possible to keep both their pets and their overall good health.

And what about those couples who don't have pet-behavior problems or allergies, but still argue over letting their pets on the bed? That's the sort of thing you have to work out for yourself, since I have enough work giving pet advice without venturing into relationship counseling.

If you're lucky, though, you'll be able to find a bed big enough for everyone to be happy in.

THE SCOOP

Every year many shelters temporarily halt the adoption of black cats in the days leading up to Halloween. In theory, it's to keep those who practice "satanic rituals" -- or kids who pretend to -- from getting animals to torture.

But at least one expert says taking such cautions is pointless. It's an imagined problem, part of a handful of myths in the sheltering community that have been passed around as common knowledge for years. Writing in the ASPCA's Animal Watch magazine, Stephen L. Zawistowski, senior vice president of animal science for the New York-based group, argues that perpetuating such myths keeps shelters from understanding the true nature of cruelty and overpopulation. And that, he says, keeps them from focusing on what works and what doesn't when it comes to helping animals.

PETS ON THE WEB

Rural Area Veterinary Services (www.vet.utk.edu/ravs/) is a little-known program affiliated with the Humane Society of the United States that functions as a sort of "Doctors Without Borders" for the animals of the world. The RAVS volunteers travel to poverty-stricken parts of the world (including many in the United States) and help people by caring for their animals. The volunteer veterinarians, technicians and students provide a real service, bringing the basic care so many of us take for granted to people who often don't know about it and probably couldn't afford it if they did. RAVS is always in need of donations, by the way.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Would you please offer a different point of view on cats leaving paw prints on cars and your advice to buy car covers? I've used a cover on my car for years and, yes, it does keep the cat paw prints off, but I go through approximately one car cover a year (and these are better-quality custom covers, not cheap ones) thanks to the cat across the street.

He spends his time alternately spraying my cover or shredding it with his claws. When he walks on my car he doesn't leave paw prints but does scratch the paint, digging his claws through the cover. -- K.J., via e-mail

A: I said I'd get mail on the subject, and I certainly did, not only from people who wanted to keep feline paw prints off their cars, but also from those who wanted to keep the cat spray off their porches and cat mess out of their flowerbeds. Most of these people aren't cat haters -- although a minority are -- but instead folks who don't want to clean up after pets belonging to the neighbors.

On the other hand, I heard from people who believe that dealing with roaming cats is just another part of life. "The next thing you know," wrote one person, "these people will be complaining that about the rain on their car."

I'm just smart enough to realize I can't resolve this dispute. I've long been in favor of people keeping their cats from roaming -- it's much safer for the cats -- but I cannot advocate killing free-roaming cats, which is more than likely what happens when a cat is trapped and dropped off at the pound.

Has there been progress on this issue? I think so. When I started writing this column, almost no one besides show breeders kept their cats inside, and few animal groups advocated it. Now, many cats stay happily inside, and groups such as the Humane Society of the United States have launched campaigns to educate pet lovers on the benefits.

According to the HSUS:

-- The average lifespan of free-roaming cat is 3 years, compared to 15-18 years for an indoor cat

-- Fewer than 5 percent of "found" cats who are turned in to shelters are ever reclaimed by their families. (Since adult cats have the lowest rate of adoption of all animals, this means that many of these pets are killed when not claimed or adopted.)

You can find out more about the HSUS "Safe Cats Campaign" on its Web site, at www.hsus.org/ace/13960.

Q: Please solve an argument I'm having with my mother. How often should a dog be bathed? She says it's bad for them to be bathed more than once every six years. -- T.V., via e-mail

A: The simple answer: Dogs should be bathed as often as they need it. The old idea of bathing once or twice a year probably traced back to the time when most dogs were kept outside. You wouldn't want to live with a house pet who saw the bathtub that infrequently.

Most healthy dogs can be bathed as often as once a week, especially if you use a conditioning shampoo. Regular bathing with daily brushing will make your dog a pleasure to have in your home.

For dogs with skin problems, please consult your veterinarian about bathing frequency and which products to use.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600