If you keep your cats inside, they'll definitely be safe. But will they be happy? On this point, cat lovers disagree.

I'm reminded of the controversy every time one of my friends loses a cat, which seems to happen on an annual basis. She has had them hit by cars, pulled apart by dogs, poisoned, but mostly they just disappear.

She writes me when they die, her e-mails a blend of sadness and defensiveness. She tells me that she knows I think she should keep her cats inside, but she believes that her cats' lives, though short, were better for being allowed to roam. She doesn't know anyone who keeps cats inside, and so she hasn't seen for herself that it's possible for cats to be happy without free access to the outside.

Keeping a cat inside is more difficult, both in terms of the time spent maintaining the animal, and the effort and imagination required to keep the animal mentally and physically happy. But I've seen enough indoor cats to know that they seem perfectly content, especially if they've never been allowed to roam.

The basics include food and water dishes, of course, and a litter box. But it's not enough just to buy these things and put them where you think it's convenient. As is typical of an animal whose wild relatives are often meals for larger predators, cats need to feel comfortable where they get their essential tasks done. Litter boxes, especially, should be in protected areas, filled with litter the cat prefers and kept clean.

But that's not all you need to do. Since you've taken away a large part of the cat's natural world, you need to put in "environmental enrichments" to make up for the loss. Think about ways to make your home more entertaining to your cat, engaging as many senses as possible.

Your first investment should be a cat tree, a place for your pet to scratch, climb, perch and generally feel superior to the beings below. Cats love to scratch -– it keeps their claws sharp, gives them a good stretch and allows them to mark their territory with scent -- and with patience most cats can be trained to use a cat tree or post instead of furniture.

Next up: toys. You'll need an interactive toy you can play with your cat, such as a "fishing" pole (as I've written recently, The Galkie Co. makes a great one, $15 including shipping and handling from P.O. Box 20, Harrogate, TN 37752, www.kittytease.com or 423-869-8138). Add some toys for batting, such as small stuffed animals or balls with bells in them. You don't even need to spend money: Cats can be kept entertained with empty boxes or shopping bags, corks from wine bottles or the tops of milk containers.

Don't forget to jazz up the scent of toys with catnip or valeria, both of which you can grow yourself, so you'll always have a fresh supply. And while you're planting, be sure to keep fresh grasses growing for your cat's nibbling pleasure.

You can also work on ways to give your cat safe access to the outdoors, such as with a cat door into a screened-in porch. You can also buy kits for portable outdoor pens, completed with tunnels for connecting to the house. I know of several people who have put together some grand outdoor spaces, including a two-story enclosure clinging to the side of the house with areas for climbing, sunbathing and hiding. These needn't be expensive, especially if you're a capable do-it-yourselfer.

Lose your guilt and use your imagination. Whatever your cat loses by not roaming free he'll gain from the pleasures you can pack in your home. And he'll really benefit from the long, healthy life enjoyed by so many indoor cats.

THE SCOOP

Birdbaths aren't just for wild birds. Most pet birds enjoy getting wet on a regular basis too -- and it's good for them. Some birds enjoy being misted with a spray bottle, while others will happily share your shower, with the help of any number of perches designed to affix to the wall of the stall. Some birds would rather bathe and enjoy access to a shallow dish of water. Experiment until you find out what suits your bird best, then allow your pet a drenching as frequently as every day.

PETS ON THE WEB

More than 1,000 dog parks can be found in the United States and Canada, according to the Dogpark Web site (www.dogpark.com). That's a nifty bit of news and reason to celebrate. And, you'll find lots more on this site, such as information on dog care and health, tips on toys and games, and features on dogs and their people. There's even a store for picking up necessary dog-park equipment, such as the Chuck-it, which allows for slobber-free tennis ball throwing.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: Thank you for writing about fat dogs! My husband and I currently live with his mother, and she has a 20-pound dog who should ideally weigh less than 14 pounds. Everything my mother-in-law eats, her dog eats, from meat, potatoes and cheese to ice cream, cookies and cake. The dog will bark if her begging is not responded to immediately.

We have a very active and healthy mutt who loves to play and will fetch a ball for hours on end. He also weighs 20 pounds, but that's what he's supposed to weigh. He doesn't beg since we almost never give him anything but dry dog food.

Our dog would love nothing more than to play ball with my mother-in-law's dog, but she can't keep up. She has stopped even trying to run for the ball and instead barks because she feels so left out.

It's apparent to everyone but my mother-in-law whose dog is happier. I gave the article to my mother-in-law in hopes that your words will get through. Please keep reminding people that they don't do their dogs any favors by letting them get fat. -- A.D., via e-mail

A: Having struggled with weight for nearly all of my life, I am too well aware of what it feels like to be disabled by excess pounds. And I know what it's like to go from not being able to walk across a parking lot without losing my breath to being able (as I am now, after losing most of my extra weight) to ride a bike for hours or walk for miles.

I have to believe the experience of being able to move freely and without pain is joyous to all beings. I know my life is a million times better these days, and I can imagine the same would be true of any obese pet brought lovingly back to fitness.

Denying pets the pleasures of movement by letting them become grossly obese is no kindness. It's difficult to say "no" to the big brown eyes of a pet who has been taught to beg constantly, but doing so is truly an act of caring -- stuffing your overweight dog is not.

Q: I'm thinking of adopting a puppy in the next couple of weeks, a male Pomeranian who was born without eyes. Our veterinarian looked at the baby today and says he has a strong heart and can see no other problems.

I'm 57 years old, and I'm home almost all the time. The breeder said she was hoping someone with disabilities -- I'm blind in one eye and have some mobility problems -- would take him because that person would understand the dog's limitations.

What are your feelings on taking in this puppy? He already has my heart, but my daughter thinks I need to do more research. -- S.C., via e-mail

A: I've known several blind dogs over the years and have seen for myself the happy lives they lead. Remember, dogs rely on their noses first for sensory input, to the extent that if they see something their nose won't confirm -- like a dog in the mirror, or on TV -- they won't pay it much mind. Remember, too, that although we need our eyes for reading, driving, etc., dogs do none of these things.

If you love the little guy and he's healthy, I say adopt him! He will adapt well in the house if you don't keep moving the furniture around. Outside, keep him in your arms or on leash at all times for his protection.

I think you'll both do splendidly, and bless you for opening your heart to this special dog. May you both be very happy!

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

I'm often asked how I've come to know so much about pets. After all, I'm not a veterinarian, nor do I have a degree in biology or animal behavior. But I do have a degree that has taught me how to ask the right questions and to explain the answers in understandable English.

And in addition to those skills, which have served me well through hundreds of columns and three books over almost 20 years, I have a love for animals and an insatiable desire to learn more. I want to learn more about caring for and understanding pets, and also to help others to do the same.

Sometimes, though, what I think has helped me most is ability to recognize that sometimes the knowledge comes from places I never would have imagined.

Like the chair of a dentist busy doing a root canal on my infected, impacted and oh-so-painful molar.

More on that in a minute.

When I first started writing about pets, I became friends with a veterinarian who had just opened his own practice. Clients were few at first and his staff consisted of just one technician he couldn't even afford to keep on full-time. He had a lot of time to fill, and no one to fill it with, so he didn't mind my hanging around, watching, learning and sometimes even helping. He was one of my earliest teachers, and veterinarians have ever since been an appreciated and respected source of information.

Along the way, I've also been grateful for a great many trainers and behaviorists, as well as top competitors in canine sports from agility to field training to mushing and more. You'll also find shelter and rescue workers on my contact list, as well as responsible breeders and fanciers of all manner of pets. I've talked to more than a few groomers, pet-sitters and pet-supply manufacturers over the years, too.

And lots and lots of readers, of course.

I think of all of these people, and all of these influences, every time I write a column or contemplate a new book. But sometimes, even now, something different will happen to give me an insight into how we can understand and care for animals even better.

Which brings me back to that root canal. While the dentist worked on me, I floated in the dreamy waves of a preappointment sedative, thinking of a cat ...

Years ago, when I was hanging out with my friend at his veterinary clinic, an older cat was brought in. She was listless and not eating, and her owners complained of her "bad breath" and lack of interest in using the litter box. My friend found the probable reason for her problems: Her mouth was a smelly mess of rotting teeth and infected gums.

He suggested dental work -- some tooth extractions, a thorough cleaning and a course of antibiotics. The owners balked at spending the money, at the risk of anesthesia and at the very idea that an animal would need dental care. They took their cat home, to suffer, surely, and perhaps to die as the infections overwhelmed her malnourished body.

Sitting in the dentist's chair, I understood with a weekend's worth of dreadful pain on just one tooth -- not a mouthful of infection and rot for heaven knows how long -- just how much that cat was suffering, and how much she needed help. Not in abstract terms, but from my own reality.

I don't know what happened to her, but I do know that thinking of her now, so many years later, reminds me of how important it is not only to keep learning from every possible source, but also to keep helping by writing about what I find out. So that maybe the next time someone has a cat with a mouthful of rot, or a dog with an ear infection, they won't grouse about the trouble, the time or the money but instead will think of the animal, the suffering, and the responsibility we take on when we take in a pet.

Keep learning, keep helping. It's not a bad motto for the years past and, indeed, the years to come.

THE SCOOP

Brewer's yeast has been touted as a "natural" flea cure for years, but if you're counting on it to handle an infestation of the pests, you'll likely be very disappointed. Whether given as a food supplement or sprinkled on the pet as a flea-deterrent, the best you can say about brewer's yeast is that it probably won't do your pet any harm. Alas, it won't do the fleas any harm, either. Talk to your veterinarian about effective, low-risk flea control products that work. And, as always, follow the directions on the package to the letter for your pet's safety.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Parrot Chronicles (www.parrotchronicles.com) is an online magazine every bird lover should bookmark. The site offers interesting first-person pieces, such as one written by a Hollywood publicist who decided to take her bird with her on a business trip instead of hiring a pet-sitter. (Note to anyone trying to do this: If anyone complains about the noise your bird makes on a plane, pointing out that babies are likely to be more ear-splittingly annoying will not help your cause, even if it's true.) In addition to such entertaining stories, the site offers good practical advice on health and behavior, and balanced, intelligent discussion on some controversial topics.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I agree that the IMOM.com charity you wrote about recently presents a wonderful opportunity for those of us who have extra money to support the medical care of the loving companions of those who have limited incomes. For folks who wish to do so within their own community, though, there are often local ways to achieve the same means.

Several years ago, I established a fund at my veterinarian's office in memory of my 10-1/2-year-old bullmastiff and my 19-year-old cat, and in honor of the wonderful care given them by the doctors and staff at that practice. The purpose of the fund is to provide care to those clients who love their companion animals but cannot afford veterinary procedures.

If someone wishes to donate dollars in their community with the tax advantages of donating through a 501(c)(3) charitable organization, that person may wish to explore setting up a similar fund through the community humane society or animal shelter, many of which are 501(c)(3) organizations already.

Another possibility is establishing a fund at local community foundations. With a substantial donation, one might even choose to set up an endowed fund.

Would you please pass along this information? -- J.A., via e-mail

A: I agree it would be wonderful if every community had a fund that animal lovers could donate to in hopes of helping people who can't afford veterinary care for their pets. And I like your idea of making such donations in memory of a special pet -- what a wonderful way to honor a well-loved and much-missed companion!

Now before anyone jumps all over me for supporting health care for animals before people get the same consideration, let me remind everyone that many times when you help prevent a so-called "economic euthanasia" -- the killing of a pet who could be helped were it not for the expense of the care -- you are in fact making a big difference in the life of another human being.

Many times the people who can't afford to pay a big veterinary bill are those who rely the most on the companionship a pet brings -- elderly people on small fixed incomes. By helping to pay for the care of sick pets, you are often also helping a person who really needs that animal.

Thank you for your wonderful suggestion, and I hope many readers give your ideas serious consideration when it comes to planning their charitable giving.

Q: I have a wonderful 6-year-old chocolate mini-rex rabbit, a lovable, gentle soul. He spends the school year in my classroom and the summer at home with me.

During the summer he sleeps in a cage outfitted for his comfort, spending his days in a run with his cage available to him for food and water. His run has been checked for anything that might be harmful to him. I feed him organic vegetables, fresh water, timothy hay and pellets I buy through a veterinarian. He is loved!

The question I have concerns adding another mini-rex to the rabbit family. Is this wise? If it is, should the rabbit be a male or female? -- P.N., via e-mail

A: Your rabbit's setup sounds ideal, and I'd add only one thing to it:

Protection from predators. Please be sure the area you've set aside for your bun to run in is covered, so those animals (from cats on up) who'd consider a rabbit a tasty meal don't get the chance to make their dreams come true. Better yet: Have you considered making yours a "house rabbit"? An increasing number of pet lovers have discovered that rabbits make wonderful house pets. (Many rabbits can be litter-box trained.)

As for adding another rabbit to a household as loving as yours: I'd say it would be a crime not to, especially considering how many rabbits need homes! Depending on the personalities involved, an addition of either gender should be fine, as long as both buns are altered. (Be sure to have these surgeries done by a veterinarian with experience in rabbits, since the procedures are riskier for rabbits than for dogs and cats.)

Check with your local shelter or rescue group for available rabbits. The steady rise in popularity of rabbits has also led to an increase in the number of these pets discarded and needing new homes. A great source of information on rabbits, their care and even veterinary referrals is the House Rabbit Society, at www.rabbit.org.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

On my recent vacation I left my own pets at home and spent a week on the other side of the country, nearly biting my tongue clean through while trying to keep from lecturing a friend there on how to better take care of her dog.

Which just proves, I suppose, that you never can really take a vacation from being an advice columnist.

That the friend loves her dog, I do not question. But she has a blind spot when it comes to a certain aspect of caring for her pet, one shared by so many people that veterinarians see the problem -– and the inevitable, sad results of that problem –- in their practices every day. The problem her dog and so many other pets share is one that contributes to all kinds of disease, leads to premature aging and death, and diminishes the quality of an animal's life every day.

That problem? My friend's dog is fat.

And not a little bit fat, either. This sweet middle-aged dog is so large that she can't stand for more than a few minutes without collapsing in exhaustion, and can't take a walk on the beach without getting so overheated she has to flop into the surf to cool off.

"People tell me my dog is fat -– as if they're telling me something I don't know," said the friend, when I finally decided to suggest gently that her dog needed to lose 30 or 40 pounds. "But I believe that if she got to choose between being thin and being full, she'd rather be full."

Well, maybe. But the choice of whether or not a pet is obese isn't made by the animal, but rather by the person taking care of that animal. Pets aren't in control of what they eat. We are. And too many of us are doing a horrible job when it comes to feeding our pets.

We are killing our pets with generosity when it comes to food.

Obesity in pets causes a lot of the same problems it does in people. An overweight pet is prone to a host of health problems, including diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart challenges. Not to mention the reduced quality of life many of these animals suffer -– and in the case of pets as large as my friend's dog, "suffer" is exactly the right word.

If your pet is overweight, the best place to start correcting the situation is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any health problems that might make feeding or lifestyle changes difficult or dangerous. After you get the go-ahead from your veterinarian, getting your pet to lose weight works the same way as it does with people: less food, more activity, with an eye to a very gradual but steady reduction in pounds.

Some other tips: Get out of the habit of constantly handing food to your pet, whether from your own dish or from a box of treats. Never give food to a begging pet, since it just reinforces that annoying behavior. When you need to give a treat, such as to reward good behavior while training, use the smallest size possible by breaking off a tiny bit instead of feeding a whole treat. You can also substitute pieces of rice cakes or carrot sticks for the occasional dog treat.

Figure out a way to get your pet to be more active, such as with a daily walk or game of fetch. For cats, buy a "fishing pole" toy and play with your pet every night.

Above all, don't ignore the problem. Keeping your pet's weight down is not only good for your pet's health and quality of life, but it's also one of the most effective strategies for saving money on veterinary care.

This is one column I'll be sending to a friend. If you have a friend who also needs to read it, please do the same.

PETS ON THE WEB

Beth Adelman is one of the best editors in the pet-care world, with a career that includes editing the American Kennel Club's magazine, as well as the much-missed Cats magazine. A couple of years ago, she started a wonderful online magazine for cat lovers, The Daily Cat (www.dailycat.com), which is filled with a perfect balance of articles on health and behavior, as well as those on the pleasure of sharing life with a cat.

And now, good news for dog lovers: Adelman is now also editing a Web site for them, The Dog Daily (www.dogdaily.com). While there's not much on the dog site yet, a look at the cat site suggests The Dog Daily will be worth watching in the months to come.

THE SCOOP

Every summer I get questions from people who are wondering if their longhaired pets would be happier shaved down. In most cases, clipping a longhaired pet for summer isn't necessary -– as long as your pet is protected from the heat, he'll be perfectly fine with a long coat. A couple of exceptions are worth noting, however.

If your pet's coat is badly matted, it's usually easier on both you and your pet to shave him down rather than try to comb out the tangles. As the coat grows back in, regular brushing can keep the problem from recurring.

You might also consider clipping your dog's long coat if he spends a lot of time in wild areas. Turning a longhaired dog into a shorthaired one makes it more difficult for burrs to attach themselves, and easier for you to spot and remove any ticks your dog picks up along the way.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I recently had a bad mishap when I was taking my golden retriever, Bailey, out to relieve herself. When she was done, I decided to hold the retractable leash between my knees and bend over to scoop. Before I could react, she took off after a cat, with the leash pulling through the back of my bare legs at lightning speed. I fell over backward, sandwiching the speeding line between the backs of my knees.

I put ice compresses on my legs for days. Even now, 10 days later, the long gashlike scabs are barely formed, and I can't walk up or down stairs comfortably because of the skin bending behind my knees.

I felt silly to have had such an accident, so I looked up "retractable leash injury" online and found that you had written about it. I feel a bit better now, but compelled to say that I am going to switch to a normal leash from now on! -- C.L., via e-mail

A: Reel-type retractable leashes are popular and useful, but they do come with a degree of risk. The manufacturers are well aware of the dangers of improper use, and you'll find warnings on both the product packaging and the informational Web site of the popular Flexi brand (www.flexiusa.com).

For safety's sake, don't use a reel-type leash with a dog who isn't perfectly reliable on a leash. (Since these leashes encourage pulling, it's unlikely you'll be able to train a dog to walk on leash properly while using them.) You should also take a few minutes to review the safety information before snapping one of these leashes to the collar of even the most reliable dog, especially if your dog is a strong one.

Q: This is about alternative types of litter boxes. I have an extremely large cat, Sparky, who weighs 28 pounds. He is so big that ordinary cat boxes were too small for him. The poor old boy would think that he'd dug the perfect hole to go in, but alas, his rear end was hanging over the edge of the box.

My solution: I bought a large plastic tray that's used to mix mortar and is sold at home improvement stores. The trays have rounded corners so the litter is easy to get out and doesn't stick in the corners like regular cat boxes. Also, because they are slightly higher than regular litter boxes, the cat doesn't seem to track out as much litter. Will you add this to your list of litter-box suggestions? –- J.D.S., via e-mail

A: When you combine yours with the recent suggestion I received of using a water-heater pan under parrot areas for easy cleanup, it seems you can find some really great pet-care supplies at the local home-improvement store.

I applaud your inventiveness in seeing potential for mess containment in these mortar-mixing trays, and I'm happy to pass along the information.

A gentle suggestion, though: See your veterinarian for help in trimming Sparky down some. With most cats running about nine pounds, I'm guessing your cat's weight isn't all a result of being "big boned."

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600