pets

My Motto Is: 'Keep Learning and Keep Helping'

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | August 3rd, 2003

I'm often asked how I've come to know so much about pets. After all, I'm not a veterinarian, nor do I have a degree in biology or animal behavior. But I do have a degree that has taught me how to ask the right questions and to explain the answers in understandable English.

And in addition to those skills, which have served me well through hundreds of columns and three books over almost 20 years, I have a love for animals and an insatiable desire to learn more. I want to learn more about caring for and understanding pets, and also to help others to do the same.

Sometimes, though, what I think has helped me most is ability to recognize that sometimes the knowledge comes from places I never would have imagined.

Like the chair of a dentist busy doing a root canal on my infected, impacted and oh-so-painful molar.

More on that in a minute.

When I first started writing about pets, I became friends with a veterinarian who had just opened his own practice. Clients were few at first and his staff consisted of just one technician he couldn't even afford to keep on full-time. He had a lot of time to fill, and no one to fill it with, so he didn't mind my hanging around, watching, learning and sometimes even helping. He was one of my earliest teachers, and veterinarians have ever since been an appreciated and respected source of information.

Along the way, I've also been grateful for a great many trainers and behaviorists, as well as top competitors in canine sports from agility to field training to mushing and more. You'll also find shelter and rescue workers on my contact list, as well as responsible breeders and fanciers of all manner of pets. I've talked to more than a few groomers, pet-sitters and pet-supply manufacturers over the years, too.

And lots and lots of readers, of course.

I think of all of these people, and all of these influences, every time I write a column or contemplate a new book. But sometimes, even now, something different will happen to give me an insight into how we can understand and care for animals even better.

Which brings me back to that root canal. While the dentist worked on me, I floated in the dreamy waves of a preappointment sedative, thinking of a cat ...

Years ago, when I was hanging out with my friend at his veterinary clinic, an older cat was brought in. She was listless and not eating, and her owners complained of her "bad breath" and lack of interest in using the litter box. My friend found the probable reason for her problems: Her mouth was a smelly mess of rotting teeth and infected gums.

He suggested dental work -- some tooth extractions, a thorough cleaning and a course of antibiotics. The owners balked at spending the money, at the risk of anesthesia and at the very idea that an animal would need dental care. They took their cat home, to suffer, surely, and perhaps to die as the infections overwhelmed her malnourished body.

Sitting in the dentist's chair, I understood with a weekend's worth of dreadful pain on just one tooth -- not a mouthful of infection and rot for heaven knows how long -- just how much that cat was suffering, and how much she needed help. Not in abstract terms, but from my own reality.

I don't know what happened to her, but I do know that thinking of her now, so many years later, reminds me of how important it is not only to keep learning from every possible source, but also to keep helping by writing about what I find out. So that maybe the next time someone has a cat with a mouthful of rot, or a dog with an ear infection, they won't grouse about the trouble, the time or the money but instead will think of the animal, the suffering, and the responsibility we take on when we take in a pet.

Keep learning, keep helping. It's not a bad motto for the years past and, indeed, the years to come.

THE SCOOP

Brewer's yeast has been touted as a "natural" flea cure for years, but if you're counting on it to handle an infestation of the pests, you'll likely be very disappointed. Whether given as a food supplement or sprinkled on the pet as a flea-deterrent, the best you can say about brewer's yeast is that it probably won't do your pet any harm. Alas, it won't do the fleas any harm, either. Talk to your veterinarian about effective, low-risk flea control products that work. And, as always, follow the directions on the package to the letter for your pet's safety.

PETS ON THE WEB

The Parrot Chronicles (www.parrotchronicles.com) is an online magazine every bird lover should bookmark. The site offers interesting first-person pieces, such as one written by a Hollywood publicist who decided to take her bird with her on a business trip instead of hiring a pet-sitter. (Note to anyone trying to do this: If anyone complains about the noise your bird makes on a plane, pointing out that babies are likely to be more ear-splittingly annoying will not help your cause, even if it's true.) In addition to such entertaining stories, the site offers good practical advice on health and behavior, and balanced, intelligent discussion on some controversial topics.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I agree that the IMOM.com charity you wrote about recently presents a wonderful opportunity for those of us who have extra money to support the medical care of the loving companions of those who have limited incomes. For folks who wish to do so within their own community, though, there are often local ways to achieve the same means.

Several years ago, I established a fund at my veterinarian's office in memory of my 10-1/2-year-old bullmastiff and my 19-year-old cat, and in honor of the wonderful care given them by the doctors and staff at that practice. The purpose of the fund is to provide care to those clients who love their companion animals but cannot afford veterinary procedures.

If someone wishes to donate dollars in their community with the tax advantages of donating through a 501(c)(3) charitable organization, that person may wish to explore setting up a similar fund through the community humane society or animal shelter, many of which are 501(c)(3) organizations already.

Another possibility is establishing a fund at local community foundations. With a substantial donation, one might even choose to set up an endowed fund.

Would you please pass along this information? -- J.A., via e-mail

A: I agree it would be wonderful if every community had a fund that animal lovers could donate to in hopes of helping people who can't afford veterinary care for their pets. And I like your idea of making such donations in memory of a special pet -- what a wonderful way to honor a well-loved and much-missed companion!

Now before anyone jumps all over me for supporting health care for animals before people get the same consideration, let me remind everyone that many times when you help prevent a so-called "economic euthanasia" -- the killing of a pet who could be helped were it not for the expense of the care -- you are in fact making a big difference in the life of another human being.

Many times the people who can't afford to pay a big veterinary bill are those who rely the most on the companionship a pet brings -- elderly people on small fixed incomes. By helping to pay for the care of sick pets, you are often also helping a person who really needs that animal.

Thank you for your wonderful suggestion, and I hope many readers give your ideas serious consideration when it comes to planning their charitable giving.

Q: I have a wonderful 6-year-old chocolate mini-rex rabbit, a lovable, gentle soul. He spends the school year in my classroom and the summer at home with me.

During the summer he sleeps in a cage outfitted for his comfort, spending his days in a run with his cage available to him for food and water. His run has been checked for anything that might be harmful to him. I feed him organic vegetables, fresh water, timothy hay and pellets I buy through a veterinarian. He is loved!

The question I have concerns adding another mini-rex to the rabbit family. Is this wise? If it is, should the rabbit be a male or female? -- P.N., via e-mail

A: Your rabbit's setup sounds ideal, and I'd add only one thing to it:

Protection from predators. Please be sure the area you've set aside for your bun to run in is covered, so those animals (from cats on up) who'd consider a rabbit a tasty meal don't get the chance to make their dreams come true. Better yet: Have you considered making yours a "house rabbit"? An increasing number of pet lovers have discovered that rabbits make wonderful house pets. (Many rabbits can be litter-box trained.)

As for adding another rabbit to a household as loving as yours: I'd say it would be a crime not to, especially considering how many rabbits need homes! Depending on the personalities involved, an addition of either gender should be fine, as long as both buns are altered. (Be sure to have these surgeries done by a veterinarian with experience in rabbits, since the procedures are riskier for rabbits than for dogs and cats.)

Check with your local shelter or rescue group for available rabbits. The steady rise in popularity of rabbits has also led to an increase in the number of these pets discarded and needing new homes. A great source of information on rabbits, their care and even veterinary referrals is the House Rabbit Society, at www.rabbit.org.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Obesity Is Now a Problem for Pets as Well as People

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 27th, 2003

On my recent vacation I left my own pets at home and spent a week on the other side of the country, nearly biting my tongue clean through while trying to keep from lecturing a friend there on how to better take care of her dog.

Which just proves, I suppose, that you never can really take a vacation from being an advice columnist.

That the friend loves her dog, I do not question. But she has a blind spot when it comes to a certain aspect of caring for her pet, one shared by so many people that veterinarians see the problem -– and the inevitable, sad results of that problem –- in their practices every day. The problem her dog and so many other pets share is one that contributes to all kinds of disease, leads to premature aging and death, and diminishes the quality of an animal's life every day.

That problem? My friend's dog is fat.

And not a little bit fat, either. This sweet middle-aged dog is so large that she can't stand for more than a few minutes without collapsing in exhaustion, and can't take a walk on the beach without getting so overheated she has to flop into the surf to cool off.

"People tell me my dog is fat -– as if they're telling me something I don't know," said the friend, when I finally decided to suggest gently that her dog needed to lose 30 or 40 pounds. "But I believe that if she got to choose between being thin and being full, she'd rather be full."

Well, maybe. But the choice of whether or not a pet is obese isn't made by the animal, but rather by the person taking care of that animal. Pets aren't in control of what they eat. We are. And too many of us are doing a horrible job when it comes to feeding our pets.

We are killing our pets with generosity when it comes to food.

Obesity in pets causes a lot of the same problems it does in people. An overweight pet is prone to a host of health problems, including diabetes, joint, ligament and tendon difficulties, breathing and heart challenges. Not to mention the reduced quality of life many of these animals suffer -– and in the case of pets as large as my friend's dog, "suffer" is exactly the right word.

If your pet is overweight, the best place to start correcting the situation is with a trip to your veterinarian. You'll want to make sure your pet doesn't have any health problems that might make feeding or lifestyle changes difficult or dangerous. After you get the go-ahead from your veterinarian, getting your pet to lose weight works the same way as it does with people: less food, more activity, with an eye to a very gradual but steady reduction in pounds.

Some other tips: Get out of the habit of constantly handing food to your pet, whether from your own dish or from a box of treats. Never give food to a begging pet, since it just reinforces that annoying behavior. When you need to give a treat, such as to reward good behavior while training, use the smallest size possible by breaking off a tiny bit instead of feeding a whole treat. You can also substitute pieces of rice cakes or carrot sticks for the occasional dog treat.

Figure out a way to get your pet to be more active, such as with a daily walk or game of fetch. For cats, buy a "fishing pole" toy and play with your pet every night.

Above all, don't ignore the problem. Keeping your pet's weight down is not only good for your pet's health and quality of life, but it's also one of the most effective strategies for saving money on veterinary care.

This is one column I'll be sending to a friend. If you have a friend who also needs to read it, please do the same.

PETS ON THE WEB

Beth Adelman is one of the best editors in the pet-care world, with a career that includes editing the American Kennel Club's magazine, as well as the much-missed Cats magazine. A couple of years ago, she started a wonderful online magazine for cat lovers, The Daily Cat (www.dailycat.com), which is filled with a perfect balance of articles on health and behavior, as well as those on the pleasure of sharing life with a cat.

And now, good news for dog lovers: Adelman is now also editing a Web site for them, The Dog Daily (www.dogdaily.com). While there's not much on the dog site yet, a look at the cat site suggests The Dog Daily will be worth watching in the months to come.

THE SCOOP

Every summer I get questions from people who are wondering if their longhaired pets would be happier shaved down. In most cases, clipping a longhaired pet for summer isn't necessary -– as long as your pet is protected from the heat, he'll be perfectly fine with a long coat. A couple of exceptions are worth noting, however.

If your pet's coat is badly matted, it's usually easier on both you and your pet to shave him down rather than try to comb out the tangles. As the coat grows back in, regular brushing can keep the problem from recurring.

You might also consider clipping your dog's long coat if he spends a lot of time in wild areas. Turning a longhaired dog into a shorthaired one makes it more difficult for burrs to attach themselves, and easier for you to spot and remove any ticks your dog picks up along the way.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: I recently had a bad mishap when I was taking my golden retriever, Bailey, out to relieve herself. When she was done, I decided to hold the retractable leash between my knees and bend over to scoop. Before I could react, she took off after a cat, with the leash pulling through the back of my bare legs at lightning speed. I fell over backward, sandwiching the speeding line between the backs of my knees.

I put ice compresses on my legs for days. Even now, 10 days later, the long gashlike scabs are barely formed, and I can't walk up or down stairs comfortably because of the skin bending behind my knees.

I felt silly to have had such an accident, so I looked up "retractable leash injury" online and found that you had written about it. I feel a bit better now, but compelled to say that I am going to switch to a normal leash from now on! -- C.L., via e-mail

A: Reel-type retractable leashes are popular and useful, but they do come with a degree of risk. The manufacturers are well aware of the dangers of improper use, and you'll find warnings on both the product packaging and the informational Web site of the popular Flexi brand (www.flexiusa.com).

For safety's sake, don't use a reel-type leash with a dog who isn't perfectly reliable on a leash. (Since these leashes encourage pulling, it's unlikely you'll be able to train a dog to walk on leash properly while using them.) You should also take a few minutes to review the safety information before snapping one of these leashes to the collar of even the most reliable dog, especially if your dog is a strong one.

Q: This is about alternative types of litter boxes. I have an extremely large cat, Sparky, who weighs 28 pounds. He is so big that ordinary cat boxes were too small for him. The poor old boy would think that he'd dug the perfect hole to go in, but alas, his rear end was hanging over the edge of the box.

My solution: I bought a large plastic tray that's used to mix mortar and is sold at home improvement stores. The trays have rounded corners so the litter is easy to get out and doesn't stick in the corners like regular cat boxes. Also, because they are slightly higher than regular litter boxes, the cat doesn't seem to track out as much litter. Will you add this to your list of litter-box suggestions? –- J.D.S., via e-mail

A: When you combine yours with the recent suggestion I received of using a water-heater pan under parrot areas for easy cleanup, it seems you can find some really great pet-care supplies at the local home-improvement store.

I applaud your inventiveness in seeing potential for mess containment in these mortar-mixing trays, and I'm happy to pass along the information.

A gentle suggestion, though: See your veterinarian for help in trimming Sparky down some. With most cats running about nine pounds, I'm guessing your cat's weight isn't all a result of being "big boned."

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Puppies Need Time, Effort and Discipline

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 20th, 2003

In the summer, I get a lot of questions about puppies from people who realize that this season is a great time for adding to the family. Long days, no school, warm weather -- what could be better?

A few words of warning, though, if you're one of those people with a new summer pup: Don't let the season pass you by without putting some serious effort into raising the great dog you want your puppy to become.

Puppies need structure, consistency and lots of positive reinforcement. But more than anything, they need your time. Every minute with a puppy spent training, socializing and preventing problems will save you time and aggravation down the road.

Teach your puppy to get things right from the start, remove opportunities for undesirable behavior -- such as limiting your pup's access to areas where he can chew things you'd rather he leave alone. Keep him where he can't get into much trouble, and give him a toy to chew on instead. Don't forget to praise him for making the right decision -- even if the right choice was the only one offered.

In training, stick to the positive. Use praise and treats to motivate and reward your puppy as he learns the basic building blocks of good behavior.

You'll need some tools to help you stop unwanted behavior. Here are few effective ways to turn a situation around without resorting to physical punishment:

-- The ol' switcheroo. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and provides the puppy with one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, such as a toy. When he takes it, praise him. (And then put those shoes away.)

-- Ask for another behavior. With older puppies and dogs, you can stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one. Tell the puppy who's jumping up for attention to sit instead and then praise him for planting his rump on the ground.

-- The time-out. Crates, so useful for house-training, give you a break from your puppy and send him a message at the same time. Puppies thrive on your attention, sometimes even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward and gives a pup a few minutes to think things over. And sometimes, having a place to put your puppy will help keep you from losing your temper.

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him in his crate for a nap, along with a chew toy. Ignore his fussing. Chances are he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

If you're constantly trying to reprimand your puppy, you may be sending him mixed signals: laughing at bratty behavior sometimes, yelling or hitting your puppy for that same behavior at other times. Discuss the situation with a trainer. You may have some big problems developing if you don't learn how to shape your puppy's behavior in a positive way.

No matter how well you're doing in raising your puppy, a puppy class is time and money well spent. Puppy classes for dogs as young as 12 weeks offer puppies a chance to socialize, and give you an opportunity to work with your pup under the expert eye of a trainer.

THE SCOOP

On these hot days, it's perfectly fine to give pets ice cubes to enjoy. Dogs and cats may even enjoy "petsicles" made from chicken or beef broth and frozen in ice-cube trays.

One way to keep a pet's drinking water cool is to add homemade ice blocks. Freeze water in margarine tubs, and then add a block of ice to the water dish before you leave for work in the morning. You like cold treats and cool drinks on hot days, and so does your pet!

PETS ON THE WEB

The Delta Society, an organization that supports and promotes such activities as using animals for therapy and the use of service dogs by people with disabilities, has pulled together an excellent collection of resources related to pet loss and bereavement. The resource Web page (www.deltasociety.org/dsn000.htm) offers a bibliography of helpful books, information on bereavement hot lines and support groups around the country, as well as links to other related sites.

QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK

Q: You've advocated having two pets to keep each other company, so I am not sure how having only one parrot (as you do) fits into that view. In the wild, don't parrots live in large flocks?

But, my main question is how such a pet-loving person could condone having any bird confined to a cage, when flying is what they do best and love?

I realize you enjoy their companionship, but as you've stated, parrots are extremely intelligent, so isn't it like "imprisoning" a young child? -- W.H., via e-mail

A: I don't have a problem with someone having a single pet -- as long as the pet's needs are met, including the social ones. I've been writing about pets long enough to know better than to deal in absolutes: I've seen all kinds of pets in all kinds of families work out well, as long as the people involved accept the responsibility for the care of their pets.

Parrots are social animals, true, but like dogs, they are able to accept us as members of their social circle. We are the "flock" or "pack" to our pets, as they are "family" to us. This is especially true of those parrots who are domestically bred and hand-raised from the time they are hatched.

Is it cruel to keep a caged pet? In some cases, I think it is. I have a serious problem with pets who are cage-bound for life, especially when those cages are small and with no environmental enrichment, and when the pets get nothing in the way of attention except the changing of food and water dishes, or the occasional cage cleaning. (So many children's pets live this way, after their young owners lose interest in them.)

Although he's not free to roam the native habitat of his wild ancestors, my parrot has a pretty good life. Eddie is only "imprisoned" in his toy-filled cage at night or when I'm not home, for his safety. Otherwise, he's climbing all over the inside and outside of his open cage, playing on one of his two natural-wood play stands, or wandering about the house and yard with me. (For the outside, he wears a tether to keep him from flying away -- a possibility even for birds with wing clips, if the right gust of wind comes along.) We play games that we've made up together, and he's learning tricks. He loves to play and to snuggle.

I'm not alone in taking such care of my bird. Many parrot-fanciers work hard to give their pets the best life possible short of living free, and these birds seems quite happy.

Q: In a recent column you mentioned nonstandard litter boxes. I use plastic under-bed storage boxes with the lid removed. My cats love them.

A friend of mine had a cat who didn't want to use the litter box (standard size), but when she switched to one of the larger storage boxes, he started using it regularly.

The storage boxes are about $5 or $6, so they actually cost less than the large litter boxes that are sometimes available from pet-supply stores. Will you pass the word along? -- C.S., via the Internet

A: You bet! You've happened on one of the most important rules when it comes to getting a cat to use the litter box: If the cat ain't happy, nobody's happy.

Cats need a box in which they can feel safe and comfortable, in a place that's protected, filled with clean litter of a type the cat prefers that isn't gunked up with deodorizing smells humans like but cats don't.

I'm always hearing from readers who are frustrated because their cats won't use whatever litter setup they're provided, chalking the problem up to the cat's "spite," "stupidity" or something equally off base. Bigger box, new location, different litter: Sometimes it just takes a change or two to get a cat back on track, as well as an owner with the patience and imagination to try.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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